A Bit of History

Driving to the distillery, which lies about an hour’s drive southeast of Nashville, you leave the city and its surroundings and then almost immediately plunge into rolling hills, grassy meadows and dense forests.  As you get closer to Cascade Hollow, your surroundings change to pastures and farm land surrounded by dense wooded areas.  Looking at the aerial maps (thanks Google) you can clearly see where the forest has been cleared away to make room for that pasture and farm land.  Thinking about it, you start to get an idea of what the area must have looked like in the 1860’s when George Dickel first visited.  Tucked back in a valley, it’s easy to see why he chose Cascade Hollow as the home of his namesake whisky distillery.

In the 1860’s, George Dickel was a prosperous merchant in Nashville with interests in shoemaking, orchards and most notably liquor wholesaling.  Legend says George Dickel and his wife visited Cascade Hollow in 1867 on a vacation from Nashville and established the distillery shortly thereafter in 1870*.  Having found a spring near the site of the distillery there was an abundant source of pure water for whisky production.  Dickel quickly began production of his namesake whisky, which he insisted was on par with any of the more famous Scotch whiskies and, to show that fact, insisted on dropping the ‘e’ from whiskey.  George Dickel died in 1894 and oversight of the distillery and other businesses passed to his wife Augusta.  She ran the distillery with George’s long-time business partner until Prohibition changed everything.  Prohibition hit Tennessee earlier than the rest of the country when the sale of alcohol was prohibited in 1907.  Ten years later (and 2 years before the rest of the country), the possession of alcohol was also made illegal in TN.  This put an end to distillation at Cascade Hollow for over 40 years.  In the late 1950’s the Dickel distillery was rebuilt on the old Cascade Hollow site.  Ralph Dupps took over operations at the distillery and the old recipes were shared by distillers who had made the whisky in years past.  Operations haven’t changed much since then as I was soon to find out.

      

Water

Like every distillery, the water used to make the George Dickel line of whiskies is essential to the flavor profile they’re looking for.  When first scouting the area George found a spring not far from the site of the current distillery.  This is where he established his original operation as it wasn’t worth it to transport the water down the valley.  The distillery now uses the same water source but pipes it down from the mouth of the spring.  In addition to providing what is possibly the most important ingredient in the whisky, the spring also feeds a picturesque little stream that divides the distillery proper from the visitor’s center.

            

Grain, Mashing and Fermentation

Dickel uses a mash bill consisting of 84% corn, 8% rye and 8% malted barley.  All of the corn is sourced from Tennessee and the rye and barley sourced from as close as possible while maintaining the quality the distillers require.  I had always wondered why so many whiskey recipes call for malted barley and Allisa informed us that without malted barley your mash will lack an enzyme that assists with the fermentation.  You can add the enzyme, but at Dickel they find the barley also contributes to the flavor profile they’re looking for.  The grains are milled on site in a hammer mill and combined in succession during the mashing process.  It was interesting to see that the grain is weighed manually in a huge balance above the mash tubs and recorded, also by hand, in a paper ledger.

Dickel leverages the sour mash process in a pair of 10,000 gallon mash tubs which, all told, takes about 4 hours.  After the mash process completes the two tubs are combined into one of nine 20,000 gallon fermenters.  Into each fermenter the distillers pitch Dickel’s proprietary strain of yeast and begin the fermentation.  It’s somewhat odd, I’ve been on quite a few distillery tours and I’ve only ever seen the yeast once.  It’s one of those secrets that distillers generally keep to themselves.  Dickel was no different in that respect.  Fermentation is a 3-4 day process and is, not surprisingly, monitored by hand or rather, taste, smell and temperature.

            

Distillation and Mellowing

Once fermentation is complete, the distillation can begin.  The first distillation of Dickel whisky is by way of a ~30ft column still.  This brings the spirit to a proof of 110-115.  From there it goes through a “doubler” which brings it to a final proof of 125-135.  Next comes Dickel’s signature charcoal mellowing process.  But first the whisky is brought down to 40 degrees F.  I asked why, thinking it strange that they’d spend the time and energy for this step.  Allisa explained that George Dickel produced whisky year round, but for reasons he couldn’t explain found that whisky made in the colder winter months tasted better.  This chilling process is what became of George’s findings.  Does it have an impact, I can’t say, but there are certainly chemical changes that occur or are inhibited depending on temperature, so there is probably some merit there.

Once chilled the whisky is poured into the mellowing tanks.  In these tanks is 10-13 feet of maple charcoal bookended by stainless plates and wool filters.  Upon entering the mellowing tank the whisky will take 7-10 days to fully move through the charcoal and come out the bottom.  This is, hands down, the longest part of the distillation process.  But, tasting their rye really showed me the value of this process.  Compared to very similar ryes (same mash bill, age, producer) that hadn’t been mellowed, the Dickel rye was smoother and had much less bite.  Oh yeah, those mellowing tanks, they’re filled by hand, bucket brigade style, one bag at a time.

            

Aging

Dickel whisky, once mellowed, is barreled by hand (no surprise there), two barrels at a time and transported up the hill to the warehouses.  Dickel has 11 original warehouses which store 13K-15K barrels each and a brand new warehouse that can hold 52K.  Each of the original warehouses is a single story.  Barrels are racked 6 high and 27 deep.  Touring a barrel house like this is really an amazing experience.  The smell alone makes you want to never leave the place.  It’s an aroma of wood, moistened with whisky and the undeniable feeling of age.  Hard to explain and even harder to forget.  As we were walking around we asked about a hand written cardboard chart hanging from one of the racks.  Allisa explained that since the barrels go 27 deep and they get there by rolling over and over, this chart indicates where the bung on the barrel needs to start so that when the barrel stops rolling the bung will face up and not leak.  It’s these touches that we saw throughout the distillery that kept hammering home that “Handmade the Hard Way” slogan.

Dickel whisky isn’t aged to become a specific bottling from the start.  Instead barrels are sampled throughout the aging process and it’s then decided if they’re on their way to flavor profile of Number 8, Number 12 or possibly Barrel Select.  There is even rumor of some “older stuff” having recently been discovered.  Fingers are certainly crossed for some more of the older hand selected barrel or even something else interesting.

One bit of math before I move on.  Assuming the new warehouse isn’t used yet, that gives Dickel 11 warehouses with, conservatively, 12K barrels each.  That’s 132K barrels.  If each holds about 52 gallons of finished whisky, that multiplies out to 6,864,000 gallons of whisky being aged at any given time.  That’s about the capacity of 10 olympic size swimming pools or a pond 500 feet in diameter and 4.5 feet deep.  Best. Water. Feature. Ever.

            

Misc Thoughts

Through the day at Dickel there were constant reminders of their slogan or, rather, the way they live their life and make their whisky.  It was interesting to hear that they had recently switched to two shifts but could quadruple their current production without having to change the process too drastically.  With a giant parent company like Diageo they could easily be forced to make changes but Allisa assured us that Diageo appreciates Dickel’s handmade qualities and that Dickel has “a lot of room to grow and stay the way we are”.

Allisa herself embodies “Handmade the Hard Way”.  She was born and raised in Tullahoma and started her career at Dickel with the goal of creating a tour program.  After about 6 months, Allisa moved to a more hands on role in producing the whisky.  She spent the next 10 years working along side the master distiller and ambassadors crafting tasting events, trainings, etc and grew into the Distiller role she holds now.  Allisa summed it up best. “I have the best job in the state … the country!”

PS – The rest of the pictures are in this Flickr album if you’re so inclined.

* There are other stories, but I rather like this one.

† The George Dickel Distillery paid for this trip (as mentioned).  As such, it falls under my sample policy. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

Coral Rose

2 oz Clementine Juice
1 oz Lime Juice
2 oz Rye Whiskey
1/4 oz Orange Bitters *

This cocktail is tart, sweet and nicely complex from the added bitters.  The rye (Dickel in this case) is a great whiskey for this drink since it has the power to stand up to the other ingredients and the spicy quality plays well with the sweetness from the juice.  Very refreshing overall and, like so many other cocktails, goes down way too easy.

* Instead of orange bitters, I used some of my homemade hibiscus orange bitters.  Basically the same ingredients as this recipe but with some added hibiscus flowers.   They add a great color and a very light floral quality.

First, Dickel produces five Tennessee whiskies and one rye.  All five of the TN whisky varieties use the exact same mash bill, follow the same distillation and mellowing process, and are aged in the same barrels in the same warehouses.  The only differences are their age, the blending and, in the case of the hand selected barrel, where the barrel aged in the warehouse plays a part.  The similarities between the whiskies give you a unique opportunity to really taste the impact that the barrel aging imparts on the whisky over the years.

Second, the whisky recipes (No. 1, 8 and 12) do not dictate the age of the whisky.  While there are typical ages that comprise each recipe, the recipe is actually better thought of as the flavor profile that is produced.  And, while we’re talking about the numbers, no one really knows where the No. 8 and No. 12 names actually came from.  Any written history of where that naming convention originated has been lost to the sands of time. Okay, enough rambling, whisky time.

No. 1 – Unaged – 45.5% ABV
Recipe No. 1 is Dickel’s unaged white whisky (white dog if you like).  Though, as I mentioned, it does go through the same charcoal mellowing as all of Dickel’s other whiskies.  The aroma is dead on buttered popcorn.  It’s really uncanny how much the aroma of butter comes through.  The grain aromas and flavors are very pronounced and there is a notable corn sweetness.  The whisky itself is very smooth given its proof and the burn I’d expect from an unaged whisky is only a passing trace.

I’ve always had some trouble tasting (and enjoying) white whiskies.  But, while tasting No. 1 with Allisa, she mentioned something that really rings true.  You have to taste and think about white whisky not in comparison to other whiskies, but rather in comparison to other clear spirits (namely vodka).  If you put yourself in that mindset, it all makes a heck of a lot more sense. And for me, the cocktail ideas all seemed more logical.

Classic No. 8 – 5-7 years – 40% ABV
Recipe No. 8 is aged 5-7 years and the character still carries a lot of the grain notes that the No. 1 started with, but adds classic barrel aged flavors and aromas.  With the grain notes you still get the hints of buttered popcorn and subtle sweetness.  Layered on top of those are flavors of light maple, oak, caramel and vanilla and the lightest hint of smoke.  The caramel and vanilla, while present, are still background elements at this age.  There is a definite boldness to this whisky that more years in the barrel begins to tame.
Superior No. 12 – 7-9 years – 45% ABV
Recipe No. 12 spends 7-9 years in the barrel and this is where you can really start to note the huge changes that the barrel makes in that 2 year difference from the No. 8.  In the No. 8, the caramel and vanilla notes were there, but really more background flavors.  In the No. 12, caramel and vanilla are front and center backed by leather and tobacco flavors.  The grain and corn flavors, while still present are also far more muted.

Allisa mentioned that Dickel fans typically fall into one of two camps.  They either drink the No. 8 or the No. 12 almost exclusively.  Sampling the two whiskies side by side you can really see (or should I say taste) why.  Despite their same lineage, these whiskies have vastly different personalities.  No. 8 speaks more of the grains and No. 12 of the barrel. It’s like two siblings.  You can see the resemblance, note the characteristics that tell you they’re definitely related, but then their unique personalities set them apart.

Barrel Select – Minimum 10 years (generally 10-12) – 43% ABV
Dickel Barrel Select is a small batch blend of 10 barrels hand selected and blended to reach the flavor profile desired.  Allisa’s quote about the Barrel Select really summed it up perfectly.  “So smooth it’s scary.”  The additional age for the Barrel Select has turned the bold No. 12 into a sipping whisky that really could be dangerous.  It goes down easy and before long you realize your glass is empty but you’re left wanting more.  The flavor continues the caramel and vanilla profile that was so bold in the No. 12 and adds a layer of Christmas spices and rolls it all up in fantastic smoothness.

Hand Selected Barrel – 9+ years – ABV Varies by Bottling
Dickel’s hand selected barrel program lets outlets go through the process of selecting a single barrel of Dickel that possesses the exact qualities they’re looking for.  We tasted a 9 year old version (which is also what I received a few months back).  Although, I have heard tell of some 14 year old bottles out there (let the search begin)!  The flavor difference between the Barrel Select and the Hand Selected Barrel is striking.  The Hand Selected Barrel that we tasted was far bolder than the Barrel Select and had a much fruitier quality to it.  I should note that the Hand Selected Barrel was also at 51.5% ABV.  With this particular selection sitting right at the high age point for the No. 12 you also get a lot more of the bold caramel and vanilla.

Rye – 5-6 years – 45% ABV
George Dickel partners with MGP out of Indiana for the production of their rye for reasons that were both unknown and unexpected for me.  We asked Allisa if they had considered distilling their own rye base spirit and she said that they had tried it.  The problem is when you distill rye it is very foamy and comparatively sticky.  So, in order to transition between rye and their normal mash bill they have to shut down production completely, clean everything from top to bottom and then restart normal production.  When you read the next blog installment about their distillery it will make a lot more sense why the logical move is to partner with a distillery that specializes in rye.  Allisa also added that the MGP folks are meticulous about the production and Dickel can dictate exactly what they want from start to finish.

And, what Dickel wants is a 95% Rye, 5% Malted Barley rye whisky that is aged for 5-6 years.  Keeping true to their tradition, Dickel then charcoal mellows the rye in the same process used for their Tennessee whisky before bottling.  Dickel rye is the only rye that goes through the charcoal mellowing process and you can taste the difference.  The classic rye spiciness is toned down a bit and the mellowing gives the whisky a very smooth quality that’s rare in rye whiskies.  There are hints of maple, christmas spices and subtle vanilla sweetness.

If you ever get the chance to taste the full Dickel line-up in one sitting, you definitely should.  It’s a similar experience to a wine flight.  You really get a sense for what time in the barrel does for the whisky and why spirits are aged for the times that they are.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

A traditional Hot Toddy is simply spirits, hot water, some spices and a bit of sweetness.  I wanted to stay semi-traditional but combine the classic toddy with hot mulled cider.  My thought process was a little fragmented starting with apple juice (duh) and brewed black tea, maybe some spices… But that led to a stroke of genius (can I call myself a genius?).  Chai concentrate, specifically Bhakti Chai concentrate.  Bhakti is highly spiced, full of ginger spiciness and already sweetened.  Add a touch of water to bring the sweetness down and the Spiced Apple Toddy was born.

But, hold your horses.  We need to talk liquor for a moment.  Surprising, I know.  Like I say in the Hot Toddy post, you have to go with a brown liquor.  There is something inherently warming about a barrel aged spirit.  For me, the only real option is whiskey.  Or in this case, whisky.  Whisky’s flavor profile of vanilla, oak, caramel and spices just works too perfectly and it has a certain gravitas.  I mean, you never hear of an old timer pulling out his flask of bubble gum vodka.

For this cocktail, I reached for George Dickel No. 12.  It has a bold but smooth character that gives it the spine to stand up to the bold flavors of the chai and sweetness of the juice.  Plus, that boldness isn’t harsh which lets it blend into the cocktail in a truly harmonious way.  Pro tip time.  Keep the pour of whisky a bit light.  Lets you hydrate, warms you up AND makes is way easier when you want a second…or ninth.

Spiced Apple Toddy

3 oz Apple Juice
3 oz Bhakti Chai Concentrate
2 oz Water
1 1/4 oz George Dickel No. 12 Tennessee Whisky
Orange Twist
Slice of Apple

1) Combine the chai, apple juice and water and heat to nearly boiling
2) Mix in the whisky
3) Garnish with an apple slice and an orange twist

Final thoughts.  You can (and should) switch up the chai, juice and whisky for whatever your personal favorites are.  But if you haven’t had Bhakti Chai, you really need to.  The same goes for the water, tweak that amount to whatever fits your palate.  This cocktail, like any, is meant to make you (or your guests) happy.  So do what works for you.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

Michter’s US*1 Bourbon (45.7% ABV) – The striking amber/brown color catches your eye and draws you in.  Despite the higher than average proof, the aroma bears little to no raw alcohol smell.  Instead, it speaks of caramel, vanilla and the smoothness of the whiskey.  The flavor, as you might expect, follows suit.  The flavor is rich and full with hints of caramel, vanilla and butterscotch.  Fruit and slight notes of oak and smoke play throughout as well.  The finish is long and mellow with a distinct sweetness.

Michter’s US*1 American Whiskey (41.7% ABV) – The amber color speaks simply to the nature of this whiskey; powerful and complex.  The aroma of the American Whiskey is more forward than the Bourbon with more fruity qualities and the caramel and vanilla you’d expect.  The flavor too is more fruity (dried/candied fruits) but interestingly less sweet (likely from the second fill on the barrels).  This spirit seems more purely whiskey to me.  You can taste the grain notes and there is a sub-channel of rye spiciness and holiday spices running throughout.  The medium length finish is lightly dry with the vanilla and holiday spices floating along through the end.  Only as the flavor fades did I pick up the gentle oaky notes of the barrel.

Michter’s US*1 Straight Rye (42.4% ABV) – Honey brown in color with fruit and spice throughout the aroma.  There is an interesting tangy note to the nose which hints at the complex flavor to come.  There are, of course, the spiciness and holiday spice qualities that you want in a great rye plus deep fruit flavors that remind me of sherry finished scotch.  There are also the expected vanilla and caramel, but with more depth and complexity.  The flavor is truly full and rich extending into a long, complex and smooth finish.

Through all three of these whiskies, you can taste the lower proof that the whiskey enters the barrel (103 proof).  It gives the finished product more depth and sweetness since less water is added to bring the spirits down to their bottle proof.  Now, granted, I’m a giant rye nerd, but I really enjoyed Michter’s Straight Rye.  For me it has a complexity and depth that a lot of ryes on the market right now don’t bring to the table.  That said, all three of these whiskies are great.  It was almost a little hard to review them.  I wanted to keep the secret to myself and protect the bottles I might be able to find. :)

PS – The Old Fashioned I made with Michter’s US*1 American Whiskey was perfect in its simplicity.  Amazing how little fooling around great spirits need to make great cocktails.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

“A dry martini,” [Bond] said. “One. In a deep champagne goblet.”

“Oui, monsieur.”

“Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”

“Certainly, monsieur.” The barman seemed pleased with the idea.

“Gosh, that’s certainly a drink,” said Leiter.

Bond laughed. “When I’m…er…concentrating,” he explained, “I never have more than one drink before dinner. But I do like that one to be large and very strong and very cold and very well-made. I hate small portions of anything, particularly when they taste bad. This drink’s my own invention. I’m going to patent it when I can think of a good name.”

—Ian Fleming, Casino Royale, Chapter 7, “Rouge et Noir’

Sounds about right, but the last time I had issues with the Lillet.  The original recipe calls for a Kina Lillet, which is no longer made.  Lillet Blanc, while very tasty, doesn’t have the quinine bitterness (the kina) found in Kina Lillet.  Thankfully, Cocchi Americano has made its way into the American market.  Cocchi (pronounced COKE-ey) Americano brings back the cinchona quinine bitterness and makes the Vesper awesome again.

Having so many great spirits options close by, I decided to co-opt the locavore trend and go with a local gin and vodka.  The gin is one I’ve talked about here before, namely Roundhouse.  And, the vodka I chose, Sno, comes from J&L distilling, the makers of my also deeply loved Fyr liqueur.  Typically, I reach for a vodka that is completely pure and free of any flavor.  That’s generally what it’s there for anyhow.  In this version of the Vesper, I wanted something with a little more character.  Sno fills that need perfectly.  Distilled from sugarcane, Sno has a character similar to some white rums, but its mouth feel is where it really shines.  Adding a silky quality both on it’s own and in the cocktails you mix it into, Sno definitely isn’t just a filler vodka. *

This time, the Vesper has really stepped up.  As you’d expect, the gin is the star.  But the vodka adds a wonderful fullness to the flavor and a velvety texture.  It’s hard to put into words, but absolutely distinct.  The Cocchi Americano adds exactly the bitterness that I looking for the last time.  In fact, my added orange bitters weren’t needed here.  This is one of those truly pure cocktails that have been moving more and more to the fore on my list.  And, like any martini, the Vesper is highly configurable simply by swapping out the gin and vodka for your favorites.  If you haven’t mixed up a Vesper, you need to.  In advance, you’re welcome.

Locavore Vesper

1 1/2 oz Roundhouse Gin
1/2 oz Sno Vodka
1/2 oz Cocchi Americano
Lemon Twist for Garnish

1) Combine gin, vodka and Cocchi in a mixing glass
2) Add ice and stir until well chilled
3) Strain into a chilled cocktail glass
4) Garnish with a lemon twist

PS – I went back to stirring.  When you gin and vodka taste so damn good, it’s better not to over-chill them.

* I may be partial to this particular bottle because I helped bottle it. But other bottles of Sno are equally great.

Whipnose is the first in Seven Stills†Collaboration Series.  For this project we partnered with Pacific Brewing Laboratory, located in San Francisco.  We started by distilling each of Pac Brew Labâ€s beers to see if we could make a unique whiskey, and as soon as we tasted the whiskey made from their double IPA we were blown away.  Shortly after we brewed 60 barrels of Whipnose IPA, and distilled it into 165 gallons of whiskey, and aged it in new American Oak Barrels.

The name “Whipnose” aptly describes the whip of hop aroma this whiskey opens up with.  The taste is rich malt, dark dried fruits (plums, prunes), light vanilla, toasted oak, and finishes with a smooth, lingering maple syrup.

That whip of hop aroma they mention is absolutely true.  It blew me away as well.  I would never have expected the hop aroma and flavor to carry through to the whiskey so directly, but it’s there with conviction.

The aroma hits you first with hops – citrusy, floral, exactly what you’d expect.  Then you get classic whiskey aromas of vanilla, caramel and notes of dried fruits in the background.  The flavor is unlike any whiskey I’ve tasted.  In my notes I wrote “quizzical look” and if you picture a dog turning it’s head to the side, you’ll know exactly what I looked like.  There is fruitiness like crazy in Whipnose, both citrus notes from the hops and dried fruits (cherry, prune).  You get the standard whiskeyness of vanilla, caramel and oak as well, but the fruit is the star.  The floral aspect of the hops is there as well, but more of a background player.  Finally, the finish is light and slightly sweet with a very pleasant hint of bitterness from the hops.

This is a whiskey I would slow sip and enjoy the complexity as it warms in your hand.  But my brain wouldn’t let it go at that, I had to try it in a Boulevardier.  I went with 2:1:1; Whipnose, Sweet Vermouth and Campari and it was a stroke of genius.  The resulting cocktail retained the floral aroma of the hops and the citrus and bitter qualities of the Campari teamed up with the same in the Whipnose.  The complex herbal qualities of the vermouth round it all out.  If it’s possible to mourn the passing of a cocktail, I certainly did when my glass went dry on this one.

On the very large plus side, a second release is in the works.  Hopefully soon!

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.

SIA Scotch Whisky (from the Scotch Gaelic word six) shows itself as a light honey/amber color.  The aroma is awash with hints of dried fruit, fruitcake and sherry with herbal/medicinal notes floating in the background.  The flavor brings a subtle sweetness of caramel, vanilla and a hint of fruit.  There is a bare hint of smoke and medicinal peat that lets you know you’re drinking a Scotch whisky.  The finish is long and light with hints of toasted cereal grains and honey.

This is definitely a lighter whisky and I can certainly see where it would appeal to whisky virgins.  SIA doesn’t punch you with peat, smoke or aggressive flavors.  But, I can see the appeal for whisky enthusiasts as well.  You get nuances of a lot of Scotch whisky regions but the whole remains harmonious.  I can definitely see myself reaching for a dram of SIA when I’m looking for something lighter that still brings an interesting flavor spectrum.

† The product reviewed here was provided to me as a free sample. If you’re wondering what that means check out my sample policy.