It’s definitely worth hiring a bike in Amsterdam but I don’t recommend cycling in the city centre with its historic canals. This relatively small area houses most of the city’s top tourist attractions but it’s also an area where people live and work. On any given day, there are throngs of people on the road, in addition to bikes, cars, buses and trams, making it even a challenge for experienced cyclists to navigate. Due to its compact nature, the Amsterdam city centre is best explored on foot – check out my Amsterdam walking route. 

What I do recommend to visitors wishing to have a cycling experience is to hire a bicycle and explore the neighbouring Amsterdam districts as well as nearby towns and villages. Here are four self-guided sightseeing bike routes in Amsterdam and the surrounding countryside:

Sightseeing bike routes in Amsterdam

Amstel River to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel (22km)

This is one of my favourite sightseeing routes by bike in Amsterdam. Following the Amstel River, this cycling route starts in the city centre, passes some of the most beautiful canals before continuing along the southern neighbourhoods such as Diamantbuurt and Rivierenbuurt, with their magnificent Amsterdam School (Modernist) architecture. 

From the Blauwbrug (a stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein), follow the path along the Amstel River on the western bank. In the area north and south of the Amstelkanaal, you’ll find the Diamantbuurt and Rivierenbuurt, two neighbourhoods that were built in the Amsterdam School architectural style in the early-20th century.

Continue past the Martin Luther King Park and Zorgvlied, a beautiful cemetery where many prominent Dutch writers and artists, such as Harry Mulisch, were laid to rest. 

Further down the river, just past the A10 highway viaduct, you’ll find the entrance to the Amstel Park. Leave your bikes outside the park gates and wander around the park.

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel

Continue southward along the river to the village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. Along the way, you’ll pass a gorgeous windmill, farmlands and stately villas. The riverine scenery along this stretch is absolutely beautiful! In the summer, you can even stop for a refreshing swim in the river.

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel is a great lunch spot. In the summer, many restaurants have terraces at the river’s edge, making them wonderful places to have a meal and watch boats pass.

On the way back to Amsterdam, take the eastern bank of the river. You’ll pass De Zwaan windmill and various farms and parks. Back in Amsterdam stop for a refreshment at the tHuis aan de Amstel, a small café with great river views. Continue along the right bank to one of my favourite summer spots in Amsterdam: the Amstel Embankment (across the road from Café Hesp). This lively area is a terrific place to mingle with the locals, have a drink and watch the sunset. 

This Amstel River route ends at the H’ART Museum, just across the river from the starting point. 

Amsterdam Noord (North) to Den Ilp (21km)

This Amsterdam cycling route covers parts of Noord (the northern district) and continues into the serene countryside northwest of the city. Behind the Amsterdam Central Station, hop onto the (free) ferry with your bike for the 5-minute crossing to Buiksloterweg.

On the other side of the Ij-harbour, you’ll find several attractions such as the Eye Film Museum and A’DAM Lookout (an observation deck atop the A’DAM Tower with fantastic panoramic views). Continue north to the NDSM, an old industrial area that’s now one of the hippest places in Amsterdam.

NDSM

Check out the huge Ij-Hallen with its weekly flea market and art studios, the amazing STRAAT street art museum and cool cafés such as Pllek, Ijver and Kapitein Anna.

Den Ilp and Twiske

From NDSM, head further north towards Landsmeer and Den Ilp. Along the way, stop for a walk around the Twiske nature reserve and a swim in the lake (in summer).

Den Ilp is called a lintdorp (ribbon village) because of its length. Surrounded by lakes, waterways and nature reserves, Den Ilp is a lovely place for a stroll. Check out the Anton Heyboer art gallery, a colourful, quirky place that showcases the works of this famous local artist.

Make your way back to NDSM where you can catch the (free) ferry back to Amsterdam Central Station.

Muiden, Vecht River and Weesp (32km)

This longer route takes you to two beautiful fortress towns and along the picturesque Vecht River east of Amsterdam. 

From the Amstel Station, head east past Frankendael Park and Flevopark. The route continues along the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal (a busy shipping lane which links Amsterdam with the Rhine River). If you had a boat, you could sail along this canal to the Rhine River through Germany, and continue along the Danube River past nine countries all the way to its mouth in the Black Sea! 

Muiden and Muiderslot

At the A1 highway, turn off the path and follow the signs to Muiden. Muiden is a lovely village with one of the best preserved medieval castles in the Netherlands: Muiderslot. Also called Amsterdam Castle, this 13th century castle played an important role in the country’s history and is today one of the most popular castles to visit in the Netherlands. 

In Muiden, stroll along the sluice gates and pop into Bakkerij Stricker (bakery) for fresh bread and delicious cookies. Another place to visit in Muiden is the Muizenfort or Fortress Museum. At the museum’s car park, drop by at Snackbar De Loper for delicious fries (chips), and check out the cheese truck across the road (there on most weekdays) for a selection of cheeses from nearby farms.

Weesp

From Muiden, follow the path along the Vecht River to another fortress town, Weesp. You’ll pass many houseboats and small farms before arriving in Weesp. This is one of my favourite towns near Amsterdam. In addition to its gorgeous location on the banks of the Vecht River, Weesp is simply a lovely place to visit, with a plethora of charming lanes, shops, cafés and top-notch restaurants.

In Weesp, you can stroll along the fortress walls, see the two nearby windmills (along the river), wander around the lanes in the old town centre and have a drink or meal at the town’s inner harbour.

Head back to Amsterdam via the Diemerbos (Diemer forest). At the other end of the Diemerbos, look out for House of Bird, a microbrewery in the forest! It’s a great place to catch your breath under the trees with a cold beer.

The route continues through the town of Diemen and the Amsterdam Watergraafsmeer district, famous as the birthplace of the Netherlands’ most famous footballer, Johan Cruijff.

Markermeer (53km)

Markermeer is a large lake near Amsterdam. Originally part of the Zuiderzee (or Southern Sea), a large, shallow bay with an opening to the North Sea, its shores saw the rise of trading towns such as Hoorn, Enkhuizen and Amsterdam in the 17th century. In the 20th century, the Zuiderzee was dammed to protect these towns from flooding and the inland sea was transformed into a large 700-square-kilometre lake! These days, the lake is popular for sailing and windsurfing, whilst the historic trading towns are tourist magnets.

This cycling route from Amsterdam takes you along the shores of the Markermeer to several towns, villages and nature reserves. From the back of the Amsterdam Central Station, take the (free) ferry across the harbour to Ijplein. From there, cycle across the Amsterdam Noord (North) district to Durgerdam, a charming village on the shores of the outer Ij Harbour.

Cycle along the Markermeer dyke

From here, follow the road northeast along the Markermeer – the cycling path lies on the dyke, on a higher level than the main road. You’ll pass mile after mile of green pastures, farms and nature reserves (popular with birdwatchers) on the left, and the vast expanse of the Markermeer on the right.

Marken

Continue past Uitdam and further onto the dike that connects the island of Marken to the mainland. Marken is a historic fishing village that’s most famous for its wooden houses, many of which were built on stilts. Stroll around the quaint village and marina, and visit the cheese and wooden shoe factories as well as one of the original houses. You can also choose to cycle to the lighthouse on the eastern tip of the island.

From Marken, you have two options: 1. The shorter route via Monnickendam, or 2. The longer route that includes the historic towns of Volendam and Edam.

1. The shorter route

Head back to the mainland and continue west to Monnickendam, an absolutely lovely town to visit. Check out the historic clock tower and stroll along the harbour. There are numerous cafés and restaurants where you can enjoy a delicious seafood meal. I also recommend a visit to the Bierderij Waterland (brewery), which produces organic beers.

From here, follow the N247 road south to Amsterdam, passing the picturesque village of Broek in Waterland before arriving back in Amsterdam. 

2. The longer route from Marken

If you’re up for it and you have time, I recommend following the longer route. At the Marken marina, hop onto the ferry to Volendam. Its main street is lined with beautiful houses while the marina is filled with traditional sailing boats. 

From Volendam, continue this Markermeer cycling route to Edam. This town, one of my favourites in this area, is famous around the world for its cheeses. I recommend visiting the cheese market (if it’s open) and the various cheese shops. Don’t miss strolling around the canals and quiet lanes of this photogenic town.

To return to Amsterdam, follow the N247 road to Monnickendam. From here, keep following the N247 road past Broek in Waterland to Amsterdam Noord. To return to the city centre, take the ferry from Buikslotermeerplein to the Central Station, a 5-minute crossing. Read more about beautiful places to visit in the province of North Holland.

Tips for cycling in Amsterdam

There are many bike rental shops scattered across the city whilst some hotels even have their own set of bicycles which guests can use. Please utilise the bike lanes where available, obey the traffic lights for cyclists (even if some Amsterdammers don’t), stop at zebra crossings for pedestrians and give way to traffic coming from the right (unless otherwise indicated).

If possible, try to avoid the rush hour traffic (8-9am and 5-6pm) when roads and bike lanes are busy.

Be aware that it’s prohibited to cycle in certain (pedestrian) streets in the city centre such as Leidsestraat and Kalverstraat.

Cycling while using your phone is prohibited and the fines are considerable. For navigational purposes, ask for a phone holder at the bike rental shop. 

Helmets and other protective gear is not mandatory but I recommend hiring a helmet anyway, especially if you’re not accustomed to cycling (in busy places). I also recommend parking your bicycle in one of the many bicycle racks on the street or in a bicycle garage.

A spectacular city!

During my first day in Turin, I knew I’d have to plan a return trip. I was absolutely captivated! Beyond its stunning UNESCO World Heritage-listed palaces and castles, Turin is a city that oozes style. From its magnificent architecture and vintage storefronts to its classy boutiques, historic cafés and delicatessens, there’s an effortless elegance to the city that I found irresistible. Much of the historic city centre is pedestrianised, making it a joy to explore on foot. I kicked myself for only planning three days in this spectacular city!

Why you should visit Turin

The more I saw, the more I wanted to see. 42,000 steps and hundreds of photos later, I found myself completely smitten. So, if you’re wondering whether Turin is worth visiting, my answer is an emphatic YES! Whether you’re interested in history and art, design and fashion, culture and heritage, automotive history, architecture or cuisine, the city has something for you. For chocolate lovers, you’re in for an indulgent treat as Turin is Italy’s ‘Capital of Chocolate’. In fact, after this trip, it’s become one of my favourite cities in Italy! Read on for my comprehensive guide to the places I visited during my three days in Turin.

A (very) brief history of Turin 

One of Italy’s economic hubs, Turin has a history that dates back to the 2nd century B.C.. In 58 B.C., a Roman military garrison was established here by the order of Julius Caesar. The garrison later became the official Roman colony of Iulia Augusta Taurinorum under Emperor Augustus.

Throughout the centuries, Turin played a significant role in the history of the region as the royal capital of the Duchy of Savoy and later the Kingdom of Sardinia. The 19th century movement to unite Italy began here and Turin was the first capital of the Kingdom of Italy between 1861 and 1865.

These days, in addition to being a major economic and cultural centre, Turin is known for its palaces, museums, varied architecture, galleries, chocolate boutiques and restaurants. It’s also the home of famous Italian brands such as Fiat, Alfa Romeo, Lavazza (coffee), Campari (vermouth) and Juventus (football).

20 things to see and do in Turin

I decided to write a list post about the top things to see and do in Turin as I’m sure I’ll return, hence making it easy to expand this post after a future trip. For now, it only covers places I visited in the city centre and the Cit Turin district. You’ll need at least three days in Turin to visit these places, which I’ve pinned on the map below (I’ve also added the places I’ve saved for a future trip):

1. The Royal Palace of Turin

Originally built in the 16th century, and renovated in the 17th century in the Baroque style, the Royal Palace of Turin was for centuries the main palace of the House of Savoy.

The vast palace complex also includes the Palazzo Chiablese and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, which was added in the 17th century to house the Holy Shroud, a famous religious relic alleged to be the burial shroud of Jesus of Nazareth.

One of the top things to do in Turin is to tour the Royal Palace. The tour starts with the magnificent Staircase of Honour and Ballroom, and continues through richly-decorated rooms and halls. The highlights include the Throne Room, Dining Room, Chinese Private Room and the breathtaking Armoury, the last two forming a jaw-dropping combination.

Visitors also have access to the Chapel of the Holy Shroud via the Royal Palace. The Shroud of Turin was housed in the chapel for centuries, but it was moved to the Cathedral in 1993.

2. San Lorenzo Church

The San Lorenzo Church, adjacent to the Royal Palace, is a stunning Baroque masterpiece, yet you wouldn’t notice it from the outside. Step inside and you’ll be greeted by a breathtaking interior crowned by an extraordinary dome. Its interlocking arches form an eight-pointed star, while strategically placed windows flood the space with light.

The architect, Guarino Guarini, who also designed other historic buildings in Turin, such as the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, integrated many geometric shapes and hidden artistic details in the structure. Look up and you’ll get the eerie feeling that the devil is staring at you. 

During the spring and autumn equinoxes, sunlight shines through specially engineered openings in the dome to reveal hidden frescoes that remain in the dark for the rest of the year.

3. The Shroud of Turin

The Shroud of Turin is Turin’s most treasured religious artefact. Allegedly used as the burial shroud of Jesus of Nazareth, it has been venerated by Christians for centuries. First housed in a church in France, the linen shroud was acquired by the House of Savoy in the 15th century and moved to their new capital, Turin, in the 16th century. In 1983, the House of Savoy gifted the shroud to the Holy See.

In the 19th century, a black-and-white photographic negative of the shroud clearly revealed an image of a man with wounds consistent with traditional depictions of Jesus of Nazareth after his death by crucifixion. 

San Lorenzo Church

Visit the 17th century San Lorenzo Church to see copies of the shroud and the photographic negative. These are housed in a separate room inside the church.

Cathedral

Built in the late-15th century, the Turin Cathedral is now the home of the Shroud of Turin. Encased in a state-of-the-art box, the shroud is rarely displayed to the public.

If you’re in good physical condition, consider climbing the Cathedral bell-tower (roughly 210 steps) for panoramic views of the city and the gorgeous Baroque dome of the Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

4. Via Roma

Via Roma is the elegant boulevard (0.6 kilometers or 0.38 miles long) that runs from Piazza Carlo Felice (opposite Porta Nuova station) via Piazza San Carlo to Piazza Castello. Following the path of an ancient Roman road, Via Roma was first built in the 16th century during an expansion of the city by the House of Savoy. Its elaborate Baroque façades and arcades were added in the following centuries. 

In the 1930’s, the section between Piazza San Carlo and Piazza Carlo Felice was demolished and rebuilt in the Italian Rationalist style. The elegant Baroque arches and windows made way for orderly, geometric designs that project authority.

These days, Via Roma is a pedestrian street filled with a mix of high-street fashion brands and high-end boutiques. If you enjoy shopping, Via Roma is the place to start. For the fashion-minded Torinesi, it’s the city’s longest catwalk!

5. Piazza San Carlo

Turin’s most impressive square, Piazza San Carlo was constructed in the Baroque style during the expansion of Turin by the House of Savoy in the 17th century. 

At its southern end are two identical churches, Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo, while the bronze equestrian statue of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, stands proudly in the centre of the square.

Things to look out for at Piazza San Carlo

I recommend visiting the twin churches to admire their opulent interiors and historic works of art.

Behind the churches, facing Piazza C.L.N., are two beautiful fountains in the Italian Rationalist style: Fontana del Po (that pays tribute to the Po River) and Fontana de la Dora (a tribute to the Dora River).

Piazza San Carlo is lined by arcades which house shops, chocolate boutiques and cafés. Various historic establishments can be found here, including Caffè San Carlo, Caffè Torino and the iconic Stratta confectioner.

Just outside Caffè Torino, you’ll find in the pavement a bronze bas-relief of a bull, the symbol of the city of Turin. According to local folklore, stepping on the bull brings good luck, and for visitors, a return to the city.

A few doors away is Biraghi, a famous ice-cream maker (gelato di latte) and food store with a wide array of Piedmontese food products.

You’ll also find ultra chic fashion stores in the courtyards behind the arcades. Look out for the head of David, turned upside down, in the passage between the square and Via Lagrange.

In the Sinatra Galerie de Beauté, there’s a perfume store and café on the ground level and a gorgeous champagne bar on the first floor.

6. Palazzo Carignano

This extraordinary palace was built in the 17th century as the residence of the Prince of Carignano, Emmanuel Philibert. The architect, Guarino Guarini, designed the palace in the Piedmontese Baroque style with an imposing brick façade. Famous as the birthplace of the first King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, the palace is a stunning complex with two very distinct façades. 

In the 19th century, a new section was added to the rear of the palace to house the Italian Parliament following the unification of Italy. Sadly, the capital was moved from Turin – first to Florence in 1865, then to Rome in 1871 – before construction was completed.

These days, it houses the National Museum of the Risorgimento (the 19th century movement to unite Italy). Visit the museum to see the former apartments of the Princes of Carignano, the staterooms and the grand Parliament Hall.

7. Historic galleries

Another highlight of Turin for me was its three historic galleries. Each has a unique character that exudes elegance and style, and it’s a treat to walk through them.

Galleria Subalpina

Opened in 1874, Galleria Subalpina connects Piazza Castello and Piazza Carlo Alberto. This gorgeous gallery features a mix of Renaissance and Baroque styles, and a wrought iron and glass roof that fills this grand space with light. Caffè Baratti & Milano, one of Turin’s most famous historic cafés, is located here.

Galleria San Federico 

This Art Deco/neo-Baroque gallery was built in the 1930’s and is occupied by shops and Cinema Lux. This cavernous passageway, that connects Via Roma with Via Bertola, is absolutely breathtaking.

Galleria Umberto I

This 19th century gallery links Via della Basilica to the Porta Palazzo market. 

8. Historic cafés

Turin’s historic cafés are elegant time capsules, where ornate interiors, marble tables and grand mirrors evoke a bygone era. Over the centuries, these cafés played an important role in the political, cultural and social landscape of Turin. In my book, a visit to one or a few of them is a must; for excellent coffee, gianduotti chocolates and a taste of Turin’s glamorous café culture. Here are six cafés I recommend:

Caffè Bicerin

Established in 1763, Caffè Bicerin is the city’s oldest. It’s particularly well-known as the birthplace of bicerin, the famous Turin beverage that consists of espresso, chocolate and a layer of milk foam or cream. It’s a busy place and there may be long queues.

Caffè Baratti & Milano

Located in the Galleria Subalpino (though the entrance faces Piazza Castello), Caffè Baratti & Milano (1858) is a grand café that began as a confectionary. Today, it’s famous for its gianduotti chocolates (ingot-shaped Turin chocolates with 30% hazelnuts) and excellent coffee, but you can also enjoy a meal there. 

Caffé Mulassano

Just around the corner from Baratti & Milano, Caffè Mulassano is credited with inventing the tramezzino, the classic Italian triangular sandwich. The café is tiny, so you may have to wait for a table, but the beautifully ornate interior, with its intricate woodwork, mirrors and decorative details, is well worth admiring.

Caffé Torino

Established in 1903 on Piazza San Carlo, Caffè Torino is a beautiful historic café where you can stop for a quick espresso at the bar or settle into one of its elegant Belle Époque-style salons for a meal.

Caffé San Carlo

Located at the corner of Piazza San Carlo, this grand café was established in 1842. With its elegant interior, it’s another wonderfully atmospheric café for a coffee, drink or meal.

Note: as in other parts of Italy, the price paid for a coffee depends on where you order/drink it. It’s cheapest if you’re standing at the bar and pricier if you’re seated at a table. 

9. Chocolatiers

Widely known as the ‘Chocolate Capital of Italy‘, Turin’s love affair with chocolate dates back to the 16th century. By the 18th century, the city had become a chocolate-making hub, later inventing gianduja, a delicious blend of chocolate and hazelnuts that remains a local specialty. You can’t visit Turin without tasting its amazing chocolates, and bringing some home with you.

Famous chocolatiers I recommend visiting include Guido Gobino (often listed as one of the best chocolatiers in the world), Stratta, Domori, Peyrano and Baratti & Milano.

The city even hosts its own Chocolate Festival each year. The CioccolaTò festival, that coincides with Valentine’s Day, brings together regional and international chocolate producers, pastry chefs, bakers and ice-cream and liqueur makers. If you love chocolate, this is one festival you won’t want to miss!

10. Egyptian Museum

Turin’s Egyptian Museum houses one of the world’s most important collections of ancient Egyptian artefacts, second only to Cairo’s in size. Founded in 1824, it boasts thousands of fascinating objects, including statues, sarcophagi and mummies. 

Like many, I wondered what the connection was between Egypt and Turin. While there, I learned about the House of Savoy’s fascination with Egypt. They sponsored expeditions to Egypt in the 18th and 19th centuries and purchased thousands of artefacts. Opened in 1824, the Egyptian Museum is the oldest museum in the world that’s entirely dedicated to ancient Egyptian culture.

11. Mole Antonelliana

Turin’s most visible landmark has a backstory that I found absolutely fascinating. The Mole Antonelliana was designed by architect Alessandro Antonelli and construction began in 1863, originally as a synagogue for Turin’s Jewish community. However, the architect had a grander structure in mind than what the Jewish community had wished for. By the time it was completed in 1889, the Jewish community had built a more modest synagogue elsewhere and the Mole Antonelliana was left unoccupied for years.

Its soaring dome quickly became the city’s iconic landmark. An elevator was installed in 1961 for visitors to easily reach the observation deck. In 2000, the National Museum of Cinema was opened in Mole Antonelliana. 

The observation deck is one of Turin’s top spots for panoramic views of the city and the Alps (on a clear day) but I also recommend touring the museum, which has fantastic exhibitions about the history of Italian and international cinema. 

12. Palazzo Madama

Palazzo Madama is a magnificent palace in Piazza Castello, showcasing Turin’s history through its blend of medieval and Baroque architecture. The palace has a long history, dating back to the Roman era, when a city gate stood on this site. Over the centuries, it evolved into a medieval castle and later a residence for the women of the House of Savoy.

Its contrasting façades tell this story beautifully: the medieval brickwork at the rear contrasts with the magnificent Baroque façade, designed by Filippo Juvarra in the 18th century. Once a royal residence, it now houses the Museum of Ancient Art, with beautiful interiors and artworks. You can also see its ancient Roman foundations.

13. Quadrilatero Romano

A short stroll away from the grandeur of Turin’s city centre, the Quadrilatero Romano is a delightful district to explore on foot, with atmospheric lanes that follow the grid layout of the city’s ancient Roman streets.

The district is packed with lively cafés, restaurants and bars, making it a wonderful place to wander and soak up the atmosphere. 

From Piazza Castello, walk along Via Pietro Micca – take a moment to admire the glorious architecture in this street – and enter Quadrilatero at Via San Tommaso.

Drop by Latteria Bera, a nostalgia-inducing shop selling Piedmontese products, near the entrance of Via San Tomasso. From here, I recommend wandering through the grid of streets between Via San Francesco D’Assisi/Via Milano and Via XX Settembre. 

Along the way, you’ll find charming squares such as Piazza Corpus Domini, with its 17th century Baroque church, Turin City Hall, the bustling Via Garibaldi shopping street, and gorgeous buildings such as Casa Florio.

14. Cit Turin Art Nouveau district

I love Art Nouveau architecture and design, and Turin had a grand treat for me: the Cit Turin district! Located northwest of the city centre (a ±25-minute walk along Via Garibaldi from Piazza Castello, or you can take the underground and disembark at Principi d’Acaja), the Cit Turin district boasts many stunning examples of early-20th century Art Nouveau architecture. 

These are mostly residential complexes so I didn’t get to see the interiors but the façades were sufficient to keep me fixated. Stroll along Via Principi d’Acaja, Via Duchessa Jolanda and Via Pietro Pifetti to admire elegant facades, floral motifs, wrought-iron balconies and decorative windows.

Highlights include Casa Fenoglio-Lafleur (one of the city’s finest examples of this distinctive architectural style), Casa Tasca, Casa Talucchi and Palazzo della Vittoria.

15. Storefronts and façades

As you wander around Turin, you’ll soon notice its beautiful historic storefronts and café façades, many dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. I love how the city has preserved these architectural gems, which are not only a feast for the eyes but also an integral part of Turin’s identity and heritage.

Admire the façades but don’t hesitate to step inside – I found numerous amazing deli’s and cafés full of old-world charm.

16. Piedmontese cuisine

Turin is a wonderful place to savour Piedmontese cuisine, known for its rich flavours and seasonal ingredients. Expect dishes such as tajarin pasta, agnolotti stuffed pasta and vitello tonnato (veal with a tuna sauce). The region is also famous for its white truffles, hazelnuts and excellent wines, making every meal a delicious experience. 

To help visitors discover the best places for traditional Piedmontese cuisine, the city created the Mangébin circuit. This network of restaurants in and around Turin offers a mouthwatering array of Piedmontese dishes, desserts and wines.

During my stay, I dined at two Mangébin restaurants: Barbagusto (map) and San Giors (map). Barbagusto had a lively ambiance and terrific food – the tartare and red wine agnolotti were superb! San Giors, which is also an inn, treated me to a warm welcome, and a fabulous dinner.

Another Piedmontese specialty I enjoyed was gofre, a crispy, wafer-thin waffle with sweet or savoury fillings. A wonderful place to try a gofre is Gofreria Piemontèisa (map) in the Quadrilatero district.

17. Porta Palazzo market

If you enjoy browsing around markets, like I do, don’t hesitate to visit the expansive Porta Palazzo market. Comprised of several halls and a large square packed with stalls (Europe’s largest open-air market), the Porta Palazzo market is a feast for the senses. Get there by noon to see the freshest produce.

18. Roman ruins

Originally a Roman military garrison established by Julius Caesar in the 1st century B.C., Turin grew into a Roman colony named Julia Augusta Taurinorum. Remnants of Roman Turin are visible till this day.

The Romans laid out the town in a grid pattern, which can still be seen in the streets of the Quadrilatero district, enclosed by defensive walls. The main east-west Roman road is now the Via Garibaldi. One of the gates, Porta Palatina (1st century B.C.), is today one of the best preserved Roman gatehouses in Italy.

The Roman Theatre (adjacent to the Royal Palace) is regarded as one of the most important sites of Roman Turin.

I recommend visiting the Museum of Antiquities, adjacent to the Royal Palace, to learn more about Turin’s Roman history.

19. Shopping

Turin is a delight for shoppers, from the elegant boutiques along Via Roma and Via Lagrange and high street brands in Via Garibaldi to the independent shops and vintage stores tucked into its historic lanes and galleries. 

Look out for Italian fashion and design, artisanal chocolates, local delicacies and beautifully crafted leather goods.

20. Aperitivo

You can’t leave Turin without experiencing an aperitivo, a beloved Turin tradition, where an early-evening drink comes with snacks or a generous buffet of local specialties. Head to the elegant historic cafés around Piazza San Carlo such as Caffè San Carlo or Caffè Torino, or explore the lively bars in the Quadrilatero Romano district. Order a vermouth (such as Campari), which originated in Turin, for the full experience.

Other Turin attractions

Three days was definitely not enough to see all the major attractions in and around Turin. Prior to my trip, I made a list of places I wanted to visit. These are the places on my list which I’ve saved for a future trip:

• Piazza Vittorio Veneto (another of Turin’s elegant squares)
• Po River promenade (for scenic views across the Po River)
• Basilica Santa Maria Ausiliatrice (a stunning church with frescoes and the tomb of St. John Bosco (Don Bosco)
• Villa della Regina (part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed 13 residences of the House of Savoy)
• National Automobile Museum (an impressive collection of vehicles that showcase the history of automobiles)
• Basilica of Superga (perhaps Turin’s most beloved church, with panoramic views)
• La Venaria Reale (expansive royal palace in the Baroque style with beautiful gardens)

Where to stay in Turin

There are many accommodation options in Turin, from palatial-like hotels to budget-friendly accommodations. I stayed at the Hotel Roma e Rocca Cavour. Located at Piazza Carlo Felice, just across the road from Porta Nuova station, it’s a roughly 10-minute walk to Piazza San Carlo. The hotel has a lovely old-world charm and the rooms are spacious and comfortable.

How to get to Turin

Turin has an airport (±20 minutes by taxi from the city centre) with flights to other cities in Italy and major European hubs such as London, Paris, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Istanbul.

High-speed rail services connect Turin with Milan (1 hour), Florence (±3 hours), Bologna (>2 hours), Rome (>4 hours), other Italian cities, as well as  Lyon and Paris.

Note: a big thank you to Turismo Torino for your gracious hospitality and for showing me your city.

Aerial views of Paris

As we flew over Paris, I counted my blessings that it was such a clear day! Literally all the major Paris landmarks could be clearly seen. I zoomed in and took a series of pictures.

In the photo below, the Seine River can be seen. The world famous Louvre museum is to the left of the centre. To the right of it is the Jardin des Tuileries. Across the river from the gardens is the Musée D’Orsay.

I zoomed into the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine, and quickly spotted the Notre-Dame Cathedral (top-centre in the photo below).

In the photo below, I captured Place de la Concorde (left of centre), the Grand Palais and Petit Palais (middle), Hôtel des Invalides (top-left) – where Napoleon’s tomb is housed – and the Eiffel Tower (top-right).

I also zoomed into the Sacré-Cœur Church (middle of the photo below) in the Montmartre district:

It was easy to recognise the Arc de Triomphe and the network of boulevards, including the Champs-Elysée leading up to it. In the photo below, you can see the Arc de Triomphe (centre), Trocadero and Eiffel Tower (top-left).

Flying over Paris on a clear day is always a treat and I love trying to spot all these world-famous landmarks!

Paris from a plane window by night

Flying over Paris at night is also an amazing experience. It quickly becomes apparent why they call it the ‘City of Lights’. The sparkling mass is an incredible sight. In the photo below, look closer and you might even be able to spot the brightly lit Eiffel Tower.

Read other Plane Views posts:

• Mt. Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
• Atacama desert, Chile
• Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
• Mt. Vesuvius, Italy
• Mallorca, Spain
• Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Santiago to Punta Arenas, Chile
• Sydney Harbour, Australia
• Vancouver to Portland, OR

For me, walking is by far the best way to experience Amsterdam. The historic city centre is relatively compact, with many of the city’s most famous sights within easy walking distance of one another. To help you explore the city, I’ve put together this Amsterdam sightseeing walking route, taking you past many of the city’s highlights as well as some of my favourite, lesser-known spots along the way.

A self-guided walking tour of Amsterdam

This self-guided Amsterdam walking tour is approximately 10 kilometres (6 miles) long. You could complete it in a day, but please don’t! I’d much rather you take your time and enjoy the experience. Stop to visit a museum, step inside a historic church, browse the shops and markets, or linger over a coffee or lunch at a café overlooking a canal or one of the city’s lively squares.

Think of the route shown on the map below as a guide rather than a rigid itinerary. Feel free to wander off course every now and then – some of Amsterdam’s most rewarding discoveries are made when you take an unexpected turn. I’ve also added pins to the map highlighting other interesting places outside the main route that you might want to include.

This walking route is also ideal if you have a long layover at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport and choose to spend that time in the city. Hop on the train from the airport to Amsterdam Centraal and follow a part of the route. Please be back at the airport at least 1.5 hours before departure for flights to Schengen countries, and at least 2 hours for non-Schengen destinations.

To help you plan your time, I’ve also included a 3-day Amsterdam itinerary, with suggestions for how to explore the different parts of the city at a more leisurely pace. 

Exploring Amsterdam on foot: 3-day itinerary

I’ve split the walking route above across two days, giving you more time to take in the sights, wander off the route and visit a museum or two without feeling rushed. I’ve also added a third day to explore a different side of Amsterdam and experience some of the city’s attractions beyond the historic centre. Feel free to also check out my Amsterdam 3-day City Card itinerary that maximises the use of this handy card.

Day 1

Morning: If it’s your first time in Amsterdam, I recommend starting with a canal cruise. It’s a wonderful introduction to the city and offers a completely different perspective of Amsterdam’s architecture, bridges and waterways. There are several departure points around the city, but I suggest taking a cruise from the vicinity of Amsterdam Centraal (central station).

After your cruise, start your self-guided walking tour at Amsterdam Centraal and make your way through some of the oldest and most atmospheric parts of the city.

The route takes you to Zeedijk, one of Amsterdam’s oldest streets, followed by the Red Light District and Nieuwmarkt. The Zeedijk-Nieuwmarkt area is home to Amsterdam’s Chinatown. There are many restaurants and cafés in this neighbourhood, making it perfect for a lunch stop. 

Afternoon: From Chinatown, follow the route to Kloveniersburgwal, Waterlooplein and Groenburgwal. From here, continue towards Rembrandtplein, the Amstel River and the iconic Magere Brug, before heading along Utrechtsestraat.

Continue towards the Canal Belt, the UNESCO World Heritage listed 17th century semicircular ring of canals, then make your way south to the Museum Quarter to visit one of the world famous museums.

This is quite a full day, so don’t feel that you have to visit everything along the way. Take your time, stop for lunch or a refreshment, and enjoy your wander through the streets and along the canals.

Day 2

Morning: If you didn’t visit any museums on Day 1, I recommend starting at the Rijksmuseum and/or Van Gogh Museum. If modern and contemporary art is more your thing, don’t miss the Stedelijk Museum.

After your museum visit, continue towards the Spiegelstraat, known for its antique shops and galleries, before making your way to Keizersgracht and Leidsegracht.

Afternoon: Explore the atmospheric Nine Streets (De Negen Straatjes), one of my favourite areas for shopping and stopping for coffee or lunch. Continue towards Spui and the tranquil Begijnhof, a wonderful little oasis hidden in the heart of the city.

From the Begijnhof, walk to Dam Square, the historic heart of Amsterdam, before continuing along Leliegracht towards the Anne Frank House.

Finally, spend some time exploring the Jordaan, one of Amsterdam’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods. Rather than following a particular route, this is a good part of the itinerary to simply wander. Explore the narrow streets, picturesque canals and little courtyards, and pop into one of the neighbourhood’s cafés or shops.

End the day at Brouwersgracht and, if you still have some energy, continue along Haarlemmerstraat, one of Amsterdam’s liveliest shopping streets.

Day 3

Morning: After two days of exploring Amsterdam’s historic centre, spend the morning doing something at a more leisurely pace. You could visit another museum, return to the Nine Streets for some shopping, or simply enjoy a canal-side picnic.

Alternatively, head south to De Pijp district and visit the Heineken Experience or browse the stalls at Albert Cuyp Market. Another option is Fabrique des Lumières, an immersive digital art experience in the Westerpark district.

Afternoon: See a different side of Amsterdam by crossing the IJ harbour to Amsterdam Noord. The free ferries behind Amsterdam Centraal make this particularly easy – and the short journey across the harbour is an experience in itself.

The ferry to Buiksloterweg takes you to attractions including the EYE Filmmuseum, the A’DAM Lookout, where you can enjoy panoramic views across Amsterdam.

My favourite ferry ride is the approximately 20-minute journey to NDSM, the former shipyard and industrial area that has been transformed into a vibrant creative district.

At NDSM, you’ll find the STRAAT Museum, dedicated to street art and graffiti, as well as galleries, restaurants, cafés and other creative spaces.

NDSM is a great place to end your Amsterdam adventure. It’s a completely different side of the city from the historic canals and Golden Age architecture, and a reminder that Amsterdam is constantly evolving.

Tip: Don’t try to fit everything into these three days. Amsterdam is at its best when you leave some room in your itinerary to wander, linger and make your own discoveries. In my opinion, 4-5 days is ideal to see the highlights and visit museums and other attractions at a leisurely pace. You’ll also have some time for a day trip from Amsterdam.

Amsterdam sightseeing walking route

Here are the top sights in Amsterdam covered by the walking route, which starts and ends at Amsterdam Centraal. In addition to descriptions of the places covered, I’ve also added my suggestions for where to venture off the route, and places for a coffee or lunch stop.

Amsterdam Centraal and Damrak

Start your walk at Amsterdam Centraal, the city’s main railway station. Built on an island and opened in 1889, the station is an impressive building in its own right. The station was designed by Pierre Cuypers, who also designed the Rijksmuseum.

From the station, walk towards the historic centre along the Damrak, one of Amsterdam’s busiest streets. The broad avenue runs between Central Station and Dam Square and is lined with restaurants, shops and some of the city’s iconic narrow canal houses.

One of the most photogenic spots in Amsterdam is the row of tall, leaning houses opposite the canal cruise departure point. One of two rows in Amsterdam called the ‘Dancing Houses’, their distinctive appearance is partly the result of Amsterdam’s soft, wet soil and centuries-old foundations. It’s a good first taste of the quirky character that makes Amsterdam so recognisable.

Opposite Amsterdam Centraal is the imposing St. Nicholas’ Basilica, with its twin towers and stately dome. It’s worthwhile to take a peek inside to see its beautiful nave.

Zeedijk

Turn back towards Zeedijk, one of the oldest streets in Amsterdam (13th century). Historically, this was a dike protecting the city from the waters of the IJ. Today, it is one of the liveliest streets in the old centre, with cafés, Asian restaurants, bars and historic buildings. 

Some of the city’s oldest pubs can be found here such as In Het Aepjen (16th century) and De Ooievaar.

Red Light District and Oude Kerk

From here, wander into the Red Light District, officially known as De Wallen. The area is centred around the network of narrow streets surrounding the Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Oudezijds Voorburgwal canals.

There are two lovely photo spots in this area: at the top of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal and in the Spooksteeg.

Near the top of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal stands one of the most intriguing churches in Amsterdam: Our Lord in the Attic Museum. In a 17th century canal house, you’ll find a beautiful secret church in the attic!

At the heart of the neighbourhood stands the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building and oldest parish church. Its origins date back to the early 13th century. The contrast here is fascinating: centuries-old architecture sits alongside the very visible sex industry for which the neighbourhood is famous.

Nieuwmarkt and Chinatown

Continue east towards Nieuwmarkt, one of my favourite squares in the historic centre. The castle-like Waag dominates the square. Built in the 15th century as a city gate, it later became a weighing house and has served various purposes over the centuries. It’s also famous as the setting for one of Rembrandt’s most famous paintings, ‘The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp‘.

Nieuwmarkt is also the heart of Amsterdam’s Chinatown. Wander along the surrounding streets and you’ll find Chinese restaurants, Asian supermarkets and specialist shops. Don’t miss the He Hua Temple on Zeedijk, a striking Buddhist temple that adds another layer to this wonderfully diverse neighbourhood.

If you love Chinese food, restaurants I can recommend include New King, Hoi Tin and Nam Kee. There are also several breweries in this area such as De Bekeerde Suster (founded by nuns in the 16th century) and De Prael.

I suggest exploring the quiet streets between Nieuwmarkt and Oude Schans and Oude Waal. Just steps away from bustling Nieuwmarkt, you’ll find quiet canals and little cafés with a distinctly local vibe.

Kloveniersburgwal

From Nieuwmarkt, walk south along Kloveniersburgwal, one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful canals.

Waterlooplein

Continue towards Waterlooplein, a lively square known for its flea market. The market is a good place to browse for vintage clothing, antiques, books and other curiosities. I suggest stopping for a coffee at the charming De Sluyswacht café.

Nearby are several important landmarks, including the Rembrandthuis (the house where the famous painter lived and worked), Portuguese-Israeli Synagogue, the Jewish Cultural Quarter, Holocaust Monument and the Stopera complex, which houses Amsterdam’s City Hall and Dutch National Opera.

Groenburgwal

From Waterlooplein, make your way towards Groenburgwal via the atmospheric Staalstraat. Groenburgwal is a narrow canal that’s one of those quintessential Amsterdam scenes that seems almost too perfect: a line of canal houses, a small drawbridge and, at the end of the canal, the elegant tower of the Zuiderkerk.

‘Dancing Houses’ Amstel River

Around the corner of Groenburgwal, stop at the Amstel River to see the second row of ‘Dancing Houses’ in Amsterdam. They’re called that because of the way they lean and tilt in different directions, the result of the soft soil upon which Amsterdam is built.

Rembrandtplein

Cross the Amstel River and walk towards Rembrandtplein, named after Amsterdam’s most famous painter, Rembrandt van Rijn. The square is surrounded by cafés, restaurants and bars and is one of the city’s main nightlife hubs.

Just off Rembrandtplein, in the direction of Muntplein, you’ll find the Royal Tuschinski Theatre, often called ‘the most beautiful cinema in the world’. I suggest stepping inside to see the foyer – or purchasing a ticket to see a movie in the breathtaking Grote Zaal (Main Hall).

Amstel River and Magere Brug

From Rembrandtplein, continue towards the Amstel River via Herengracht or Keizersgracht to see the famous Magere Brug, or Skinny Bridge. This elegant white bridge is one of Amsterdam’s most beloved landmarks.

Utrechtsestraat and Amstelveld

From here, head along Utrechtsestraat, one of my favourite shopping streets in Amsterdam. The street has a distinctly local feel, with independent shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants occupying many of its historic buildings.

Continue towards Amstelveld, a lovely little square surrounded by trees and traditional Amsterdam houses. The square hosts a small market – a flower/plants market every Monday, and an antique market every last Friday of the month (May – September). The square is also a pleasant place to stop for a coffee – I suggest either Café Bouwman (corner Prinsengracht/Utrechtsestraat; with canalside seating) or Café Meyer on the square.

Canal Belt

From Amstelveld, continue this Amsterdam walking route westwards along the canals such as Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, which are part of Amsterdam’s famous Canal Belt. Constructed during Amsterdam’s Golden Age in the 17th century, the Canal Belt forms one of the city’s most recognisable landscapes and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The canals are absolutely enchanting in the evening. Read more about an evening walk in Amsterdam. 

Walk along Prinsengracht, the outermost of the three main canals. This is one of my favourite canals to explore because there is always something interesting to see: houseboats, bridges, historic residences, cafés and tiny side streets. Stop on one of the bridges that crosses the Reguliersgracht for a lovely view of the canal’s Seven Bridges (though, the best way to see all seven bridges is during a canal cruise).

Should you wish to tour one of the historic canal houses, head to Museum Van Loon (Keizersgracht 672). This stunning 17th century mansion has stately rooms and gorgeous gardens.

Heineken Brewery and Albert Cuyp Market

If you have the time and energy, you can extend the route south towards the Heineken Experience and Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp. The former Heineken brewery has been transformed into an interactive visitor experience tracing the history of the famous Dutch beer brand. Nearby, Albert Cuyp Market stretches along Albert Cuypstraat and is one of Amsterdam’s best-known street markets. It’s a good place to stop for a snack – perhaps a stroopwafel or herring.

From De Pijp, continue towards the Museum Quarter. Alternatively, you can end your walk in De Pijp with a drink/meal, and continue the route the next day. You’ll find many cafés and restaurants at Marie Heinekenplein, Gerard Douplein and Eerste van der Helstraat.

Museum Quarter

Amsterdam’s Museum Quarter is home to three of the city’s most important museums: the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk Museum. You’ll also find the Moco Museum, a small, contemporary art museum.

The Rijksmuseum is one of Amsterdam’s architectural highlights – aside from its world famous art, don’t miss the stunning Art History Library, which can be viewed from the balcony in Room 2.16. It’s home to many priceless artworks such as Rembrandt’s Night Watch.

The area around Museumplein is also worth exploring. There’s high-end shopping in the P.C. Hooftstraat, while the parks provide a welcome break from the busy city centre. 

If you want to visit one or more museums, I recommend making this a separate part of your itinerary rather than trying to squeeze everything into the walking route. In addition, to avoid disappointment, I strongly recommend purchasing your tickets a few weeks in advance, especially for the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum.

Spiegelstraat

From Museumplein, walk towards the Spiegelstraat, a street known for its antique dealers and art galleries. Across the road from the Rijksmuseum, stop to admire one of my favourite villas in the city – I had the great pleasure of working there for several years.

The area around the Spiegelkwartier (Spiegel Quarter) has long been associated with Amsterdam’s art and antiques trade. If you’d like to stop for a refreshment, I recommend Hans & Grietje and Saloon.

Leidseplein

Continue towards Leidseplein, one of the city’s busiest entertainment squares. The square and surrounding streets are packed with theatres, cafés, restaurants and bars. Stop to appreciate the mix of architectural styles at the square: from historic gabled houses and Neo-Renaissance, to Art Nouveau and the early-20th century Modernist style that’s synonymous with Amsterdam: the Amsterdam School architectural style.

A relatively new landmark at Leidseplein is the ‘Against The Tide‘ sculpture of two hands touching. The sculpture was unveiled in 2024 as a memorial honouring Peter R. de Vries, a Dutch criminal investigator and journalist.

Keizersgracht and Herengracht

From here, return towards the Canal Belt and explore Keizersgracht and Herengracht, two of Amsterdam’s grandest canals. Stop at the intersection of the Keizersgracht and Leidsegracht canals for another iconic Amsterdam view.

Nine Streets district

One of the most enjoyable parts of this route is the Nine Streets, or De Negen Straatjes. This compact district consists of nine picturesque streets crossing the main canals between Singel and Prinsengracht. The streets are filled with independent boutiques, vintage shops, galleries, cafés and restaurants.

This is a place where I recommend slowing down. Rather than simply walking from A to B, wander into the side streets and browse the shops. The combination of historic architecture, small businesses and beautiful canal views gives this part of Amsterdam a particularly relaxed atmosphere.

If you’re interested to learn more about the history of Amsterdam’s canals, I recommend visiting the beautiful Grachtenmuseum (Canal Museum). 

Spui

Continue towards Spui, a lively square surrounded by bookshops, cafés and restaurants. It’s a popular meeting place and a good spot for a coffee break. The square also hosts a book market every Friday.

Begijnhof

Just off the square is the entrance to the Begijnhof, one of Amsterdam’s hidden gems. This tranquil courtyard dates back to the Middle Ages and was once home to the Beguines, a community of religious women. Step through the entrance and the atmosphere changes almost immediately. The noise of the city fades away, replaced by a peaceful courtyard surrounded by historic houses. Look out for Het Houten Huys, one of Amsterdam’s oldest surviving wooden houses.

Dam Square

From Spui, walk towards Dam Square, the historic heart of Amsterdam. Choose between the Kalverstraat (Amsterdam’s main shopping street) and the Rokin, an elegant avenue that follows the historic flow of the Amstel River.

The square is dominated by Royal Palace Amsterdam, originally built as Amsterdam’s town hall in the 17th century. Next to the palace stands the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) while the National Monument commemorates the victims of WWII. If you have time, I recommend visiting the Royal Palace to see its impressive interior.

Dam Square can be busy, but it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the fact that this has been the centre of Amsterdam’s civic life for centuries.

Anne Frank House

From Dam Square, follow the charming Leliegracht canal, crossing the Canal Belt again until you reach Prinsengracht. A lovely café to stop for a refreshment is Spanjer & Van Twist.

Nearby, you’ll find one of Amsterdam’s most visited attractions, the Anne Frank House. This is where Anne Frank and her family hid during the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands. The museum preserves the secret annex where they lived and tells their story through photographs, documents and personal objects.

Tickets for the Anne Frank House are sold online and often sell out well in advance, so book ahead if you’d like to visit.

Jordaan

Cross the Prinsengracht to the Jordaan, one of Amsterdam’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods. The Jordaan was originally a working-class district and has undergone considerable transformation over the centuries. Today, its narrow streets, picturesque canals, independent shops, cafés and galleries make it one of the city’s most popular neighbourhoods.

Rather than following a strict route here, I recommend wandering. Explore the smaller canals and streets and keep an eye out for the characteristic hofjes – hidden courtyards tucked behind unassuming entrances.

In this neighbourhood, you’ll also find one of the most famous cafés in Amsterdam that’s known for its apple pie: Winkel 43. Prepare to queue for a taste of these famous pies!

The food and clothing market, held every Saturday at the Noordermarkt square and nearby Lindengracht street, is popular amongst both locals and visitors alike.

Brouwersgracht

Finish your walk at Brouwersgracht, a gorgeous canal that marks the northern edge of the Jordaan. Lined with beautiful historic warehouses and canal houses, it’s also the address of one of my favourite restaurants in Amsterdam: De Belhamel.

This is a fitting place to end the walk. Find a café or terrace at the canal or in the nearby Haarlemmerstraat (a lively shopping street), order a drink and take a moment to look back on the many different faces of Amsterdam you’ve encountered along the way. From here, it’s a short walk back to Amsterdam Centraal.

When to visit Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a year-round destination with many events happening in and around the city throughout the year. Spring and summer are popular seasons due to the more agreeable temperatures and a concentration of cultural events and public holidays, such as King’s Day (April 27th). Weather-wise, April-June and September-October are my favourite months – perfect for this walking tour across Amsterdam.

Graz is also known as Austria’s Culinary Capital, and it’s easy to see why. Set in the heart of Styria, the city is surrounded by rolling farmland and vineyards, creating a wonderfully fertile larder of fresh, often organic produce. From cosy restaurants and stylish wine bars (my favourites are pinned on the map below) to lively farmers’ markets, Graz embraces the flavours of its surroundings, with local ingredients and excellent Styrian wines taking centre stage.

A (very) brief history of Graz

Graz has a history stretching back to the Middle Ages. First mentioned in the 12th century, it grew around the Schlossberg, a strategic hill overlooking the Mur River. The city became an important centre of the Habsburg dynasty and served as the residence of the Habsburgs’ Inner Austrian line from the 13th to the 17th century. This period left Graz with a remarkable collection of Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The city survived wars, fires and political upheavals, while its cultural importance continued to grow. Today, Graz’s beautifully preserved historic centre and Schloss Eggenberg are recognised as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

When to visit Graz

Graz is a year-round destination, with May to October offering particularly pleasant conditions for exploring the city and its surroundings. For me, however, early autumn is the best time to visit Graz. The city’s parks and surrounding countryside are transformed by gorgeous autumn foliage, while a lively calendar of festivals, including the annual Truffle Festival, adds an extra layer of colour and flavour to a visit.

Places to visit in Graz – a walking route

The map below features a walking route that covers the top attractions. It’s a relatively easy walk – the only spot that’s a bit challenging to get to on foot is the Uhrturm (Graz Clock Tower atop Castle Hill). However, you can take the elevator or the funicular to reach the top. I recommend splitting this route into two days, with the old town on the first day and the left bank (Lend and Gries) on day two. Feel free to venture off the route whenever you see something interesting – you’ll discover little alleys that spill out into hidden squares and courtyards, some of which have cafés, restaurants, little shops and stylish boutiques. 

All this walking will undoubtedly make you hungry so I’ve also pinned my favourite places to eat and drink in Graz on the map above.

Bring a reusable water bottle with you because there are 120 water fountains in and around the city. If you’re not near any of these fountains, look out for the ‘Refill Graz’ signs in the windows of cafés, restaurants and shops, where you can fill up with tap water for free.

Here are the places you’ll visit on this self-guided walking tour of Graz:

Hauptplatz

The natural starting point is Hauptplatz, the main square in the heart of the city. This bustling square is surrounded by stunning baroque architecture, with the majestic Town Hall (Rathaus) as its centerpiece. The square is also home to the Erzherzog Johann Fountain, a tribute to the popular Archduke Johann of Austria, known for his contributions to the region’s development.

If you’re hungry, drop by at Guttmann (stall no. 3 on Hauptplatz). It’s an excellent place to try a variety of sausages, such as the bratwurst with radish and mustard.

From here, continue northwest along Sackstrasse to Schlossbergplatz.

Uhrturm (Clock Tower)

Our next stop is the Uhrturm (Clock Tower) atop Schlossberg (Castle Hill). At Schlossbergplatz, you can choose to climb the zig-zag staircase to the top, or take the elevator.

There’s another (fascinating) way to reach the top: a tunnel that leads inside Castle Hill. The tunnel cuts right through the hill in a gradual ascent. Along the way, you’ll pass a secondary network of tunnels and massive halls that were built as war shelters. At the top of the tunnel, turn left and continue up the hill – a pretty steep ascent – to the Clock Tower.

The iconic Graz Clock Tower, with its distinct clock faces, offers panoramic views of the city and is a symbol of Graz’s enduring spirit. While you’re looking at the clock face, try to figure out the time.

Drop by at Aiola Upstairs café/restaurant for a well-deserved refreshment or a terrific farm-to-table meal paired with panoramic views of Graz.

Schlossberg (Castle Hill)

From the clock tower, continue this hike up Castle Hill. It’s a lovely walk amidst lush greenery and gorgeous views of the city and its terracotta rooftops. At the top of the hill, you’ll find the Chinese Pavilion and the Schlossberg Museum. 

The Old Town

No walking tour of Graz would be complete without wandering through its historic Old Town (Altstadt), much of which is a pedestrian zone. The cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways are lined with beautifully preserved medieval and Renaissance buildings – characteristics that contributed to the old town’s listing as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Descend Schlossberg to Karmeliterplatz, a popular spot for street events and concerts. Continue down the lovely Sporgasse, a bustling street with shops and cafés. Along the way, pop into one of the side lanes to see one of the many hidden courtyards in the old town.

From Sporgasse, turn into Hofgasse. The first thing that will catch your eye is the Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax, the former Imperial baker. The stunning wooden façade of the bakery is in itself worth a stop.

Double-spiral staircase

Near the end of Hofgasse, turn left into the courtyard of the Burg. Head to the cylindrical tower at the far end of the courtyard for one of my favourite Graz attractions: the double-spiral staircase. This amazing stone staircase in Gothic style was built in the 16th century, and is an absolute masterpiece. It’s also called “the stairs of reconciliation”, as two people ascending/descending the opposite staircases will always meet again at each level.

From the Burg, you can continue to the lush Graz Burggarten (City Park) next door or cross the road to the Cathedral.

Graz Cathedral and Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II

Just across the road from the Burg stands the Graz Cathedral, a harmonious blend of Gothic and Baroque styles. Its sober exterior contrasts with the striking interior adorned with intricate frescoes and Baroque furnishings.

Next door to the Cathedral, you’ll find the impressive 17th century Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II. Crowned by beautiful turquoise domes, the Mausoleum is one of the top historic and cultural sights in Graz.

Glockenspiel

From the Mausoleum, explore the maze of streets and alleys that gradually descend to Herrengasse. Don’t miss the Glockenspiel, a historic carillon that plays 3 times a day (11am, 3pm and 6pm). The Glockenspielplatz and adjacent Mehlplatz are lovely squares for a refreshment and to people-watch.

Landhaus

From Herrengasse, continue to the Landhaus, a stunning Renaissance palace with its famous arcaded courtyard. In this impressive building, you’ll find the Graz tourist office as well as the Armoury Museum that houses the world’s largest collection of historic weapons.

If you’d like to stop for a wine and a snack, I recommend Goldkost, a wine bar and deli at the Landhaus (part of the Gauchos steakhouse). Choose from a wide selection of local wines and delicious plates (the roast beef is outstanding!).

Nearby, you’ll also find one of my favourite restaurants in Graz: Landhauskeller, located inside a courtyard. The restaurant specialises in Styrian cuisine and has a great collection of regional wines.

Joanneumsviertel

Walk along the atmospheric Schmiedgasse, with its many shops, cafés and restaurants, before turning right to the Joanneumsviertel (Joanneum Quarter). This large cultural centre encompasses the New Gallery, Natural History Museum and Center of Science Activities. 

For a terrific vegan meal, I recommend Café Erde, a short walk away from Joanneumsviertel. If you fancy a top-notch coffee and home-made cake with locals, drop by at the cozy Coffee Ride café at Franziskanerplatz.

Mur River

This Graz walking tour continues (the following day) along the Mur River. A walking path lines the riverbanks, making it possible to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and simply listen to the rapids and enjoy the green surroundings. Follow the path to the Murinsel.

Murinsel

You can’t miss the Murinsel, a unique floating platform in the middle of the Mur River. Designed by New York artist Vito Acconci, this modern marvel is both a bridge and an island, featuring a café and an amphitheater. The Murinsel represents Graz’s innovative spirit and its commitment to blending nature with urban development.

Lend

Cross the Mur River via Murinsel to the trendy Lend neighbourhood. Once a derelict part of the city, Lend is nowadays a vibrant place with a strong community-centric ethos.

Each morning, between 6am and 1pm (except Sundays and public holidays), farmers from the surrounding region arrive at Lendplatz to sell their freshest produce. The Lend farmers market is one of my favourite places to visit in Graz. It’s a lively place where you can also just sit back with a coffee and enjoy the bustling market.

Just behind Lendplatz, you’ll find BO SUPPE, a literal hole-in-the-wall that serves delicious, organic soups.

Kunsthaus Graz

From Lendplatz, walk down Mariahilferstrasse. You’ll soon find yourself at Kunsthaus Graz, affectionately known as the “Friendly Alien.” This contemporary art museum, with its distinctive biomorphic shape, stands in stark contrast to the traditional architecture of the city. 

The Kunsthaus showcases modern and contemporary art, making it a cultural hotspot for art enthusiasts.

On the left bank of the Mur, you’ll find another of my favourite restaurants in Graz: Der Steirer. If you love fried chicken (backhendl) and wine, don’t hesitate to visit this restaurant. The food is terrific and they also have an extensive selection of regional wines.

Where to stay in Graz

There are many accommodation options in Graz. One hotel I’ve stayed at several times is Grand Hotel Wiesler. Located at the Mur River, just steps away from the Kunsthaus, it features spacious, comfortable rooms and a lovely restaurant.

Another hotel I enjoyed is Aiola Living. This boutique hotel offers luxurious rooms in renovated historic buildings in the city centre.

For the architecture lovers, especially fans of Zaha Hadid, don’t miss a stay at Limehouse Graz!

How to get to Graz

Graz is about a 2.5 hour drive from either Vienna or Ljubljana. There’s also a train service from Vienna to Graz (±2.5 hours). The city also has an airport with frequent flights to major European cities such as Berlin, Frankfurt, Zurich and London.

Read more about things to do in and around Graz and the South Styrian Wine Route near Graz.

16 delightful restaurants in Sitges

Finding places to eat at is one of my favourite things to do in Sitges. Over the years, I’ve been to dozens of restaurants, tapas bars and pintxo counters. I’ve seen restaurants come and go, some of which I still miss dearly, but that’s also what keeps exploring Sitges’ food scene so interesting – there’s always somewhere new to try. Here are 16 restaurants in Sitges that I wholeheartedly recommend – places I’d happily return to without a second thought:

1. Moreno Major 17

One of my absolute favourite restaurants in Sitges, Moreno Major 17 (Carrer Major, 17) is known for its top-notch meat and seafood. It’s a busy place, so reservations are essential, especially for dinner.

The first thing you’ll see when you walk in is a leg of Iberico ham — a fitting introduction to a restaurant that takes its meat seriously. The quality is excellent, but the seafood and tapas are equally impressive.

Don’t miss the Iberian charcuterie platter with a side of pan con tomate (bread with tomato), patatas bravas, marinated anchovies (boquerones) and grilled octopus or squid. And if you’re in the mood for something more substantial, go for one of the steaks. The fillet steak is sublime!

You really can’t go wrong here; every dish I’ve tried has been excellent. To top it off, the service is friendly and efficient. Prices are above average, but given the quality, it’s well worth it.

2. Kan Torrat

Tucked away in a charming alley just a stone’s throw from the beach, Kan Torrat (Carrer Nou, 14) is a delightful tapas and pintxos bar. Tony and his team serve an impressive array of fresh, delicious dishes, and there’s always a lively atmosphere.

My favourites include the burrata with tomatoes and pistachio sauce, Russian salad and grilled squid. It’s the kind of place where the combination of great food, friendly staff and relaxed vibes makes you want to linger a little longer.

If you’re staying in Sitges for more than a few days, I’m pretty sure you’ll return after your first visit. I certainly do!

3. Taberna Egarri

There are three Taberna Egarri locations in Sitges, but the one at the top of Carrer Major (Carrer Major, 3) is my favourite. It has a lovely terrace overlooking a small square, as well as indoor seating.

I’ve spent numerous summer evenings here, sitting outside with a glass of wine, nibbling on pintxos and watching the world go by. It’s one of those simple Sitges pleasures that I never tire of.

There’s plenty to choose from, but don’t miss the patatas bravas, croquettes, Iberian bacon toast and red tuna with guacamole. Grab a table outside if you can and settle in for a leisurely evening.

4. Karmela

I’d walked past Karmela Terrasseta (Carrer de Port Alegre, 8) countless times without ever thinking of stopping for a meal. Then, one day, I found myself facing a fully booked restaurant nearby. As I searched for an alternative, I spotted an empty table at Karmela and asked if it was available. The lady smiled and ushered me to the table. What followed was an absolutely delightful lunch!

Karmela serves fresh tapas and seafood dishes on its breezy terrace, with (side) views of the sea. I loved the marinated clams (almejas a la marinera), fried prawns, xató de Sitges (a traditional Sitges salad with fish) and the homemade crema catalana.

It’s a family-owned restaurant where guests are made to feel like family. Expect genuinely friendly service, terrific food and a lovely seaside setting.

5. La Punta de Sitges

La Punta (Carrer Sant Damia, 14) is another top-notch tapas restaurant in Sitges. It’s somewhat more sophisticated than some of the town’s other tapas bars, and therefore a little pricier, but the quality is excellent.

The restaurant specialises in traditional tapas with a cosmopolitan twist. The rustic setting is complemented by friendly, easy-going service, making it a lovely place for a relaxed dinner.

It’s popular, so I recommend booking a table in advance. I celebrated my birthday here once and everyone loved the octopus, grilled Alaskan cod, grilled artichokes and beef tataki. But the dish that produced the most “wows” was undoubtedly the suckling pig.

6. Six Seis

I always feel like family when I eat at this little Mexican restaurant. Run by a group of young women, Six Seis (Carrer Sant Pau, 5) is arguably my favourite Mexican restaurant in Sitges.

The menu is packed with terrific tacos, loaded nachos and rice bowls, and there’s also a good selection of vegan options. My personal favourites are the pork belly taco and cauliflower taco. And if, like me, you enjoy a bit of heat, ask for their homemade hot sauces.

It’s a small and popular restaurant, so booking ahead is a good idea, whether you’re visiting for lunch or dinner. And while you’re there, do yourself a favour and order one of their fabulous margaritas!

7. Casa Hidalgo

A Sitges institution, Casa Hidalgo (Carrer Sant Pau, 12) specialises in Galician cuisine, which means plenty of fresh seafood and wonderfully prepared fish dishes. The restaurant is particularly famous for its paella and fideuà (a noodle version of paella), but there’s much more to the menu. The shrimp carpaccio, Galician-style octopus and monkfish with prawns and a heavenly wild mushroom sauce are all excellent choices.

My favourite, however, is the fideuà. The noodles are packed with fresh seafood and smoky flavours. On one occasion, the people at the next table saw what I was eating and immediately ordered one too – along with a jug of sangria, which they swore was one of the best they’d ever had!

8. El Pop

El Pop (Carrer de Sant Pere, 3) has a modern vibe that carries through to its food. I was blown away by both the presentation and quality of the ceviche and sesame-encrusted salmon.

The service can sometimes be a little slow, but the chef is nothing short of excellent. If you’re not in a hurry, it’s a great option for a more refined meal in the heart of Sitges.

9. Costa Dorada

This beachfront seafood restaurant has been around since my earliest visits to Sitges. Costa Dorada (Carrer de Port Alegre, 27) opened in 1968 and is one of those places I can always count on for consistently good food, friendly service and dreamy sea views.

The restaurant is best known for its paella and grilled seafood. I recommend the fish and shellfish paella, seafood fideuà, the black rice seafood paella and the calamari (fried squid).

10. La Marinada

Just around the corner from Costa Dorada is another excellent seafood restaurant, La Marinada (Carrer de Rafael Llopart, 49). It’s a local favourite and a great choice if you’re after fresh fish and seafood prepared with care.

It’s quite pricey, but the quality is excellent. I once ordered the sea bass with garlic and, honestly, just thinking about the texture and flavours of that dish still makes my mouth water!

If seafood is your thing, La Marinada is definitely worth considering.

11. Villa Marina

Located along the Sant Sebastià beach boulevard, Villa Marina (Carrer de Port Alegre, 39) is an Italian restaurant best known for its pasta dishes.

There are several things I love about this place: the beautiful sea views, the friendly service and, of course, the pasta. I also love the fact that the dishes are served with a smaller portion on the side for everyone at the table to taste. It’s a small touch, but a thoughtful one.

If you can’t decide what to order, they also offer a tasting menu. My recommendations include the burrata salad, the ravioli — both the Ravioli alla Sorrentina and porcini mushroom ravioli are fabulous — and the garlic prawns.

12. Komokieras

For a special occasion, Komokieras (Carrer d’Espalter, 23) is a wonderful choice. This fine-dining restaurant combines sensational Argentinian-style meats with Mediterranean seafood in an elegant setting.

One of the best steaks I’ve ever had was here. The restaurant also has a fantastic wine list, making it a great option for a leisurely dinner when you’re in the mood to indulge.

13. La Incidencia Del Factor Vi

Another fine-dining restaurant that I can wholeheartedly recommend is Factor Vi (Carrer Bonaire, 25). I love the stylish ambience and attentive, friendly service, but most importantly, the food is simply divine.

The chef expertly combines local ingredients with Mediterranean and Middle Eastern/Asian flavours to create gorgeous, beautifully balanced plates. Factor Vi is one of my go-to restaurants in Sitges for a special occasion. The classy atmosphere, excellent cocktails and wines, refined food and terrific service are always a treat.

They offer a reasonably priced tasting menu that’s a feast for the senses, but I also recommend the steak tartare, black cod and red tuna tacos.

Booking ahead is advisable. The restaurant sometimes has live music, so if you’d prefer a quieter dinner, it’s worth checking what’s planned before you go.

14. Comptoir Francais

Just a few steps from Factor Vi, Comptoir Francais (Carrer Bonaire, 29) is another favourite among locals and visitors alike.

It’s perfect for a more casual meal. The food is wonderful, the atmosphere is laid-back and the owner enjoys chatting with his guests, giving the place a warm, welcoming feel. As you’d expect, the menu focuses on classic French cuisine and prices are reasonable. I recommend starting with some oysters before tucking into the boeuf bourguignon or duck parmentier.

15. La Fabrika de Sabores

Tucked away on a quiet street, La Fabrika de Sabores (Carrer de Sant Bartomeu, 10) is another fine-dining restaurant that’s a real treat.

It’s somewhat on the pricier side, but the chic setting and excellent Catalan and Spanish cuisine make it worth the splurge. Some of my favourite dishes here are the shrimp croquettes, black rice with prawns and beef tenderloin. It’s a lovely choice when you’re looking for a more refined dining experience away from the busier streets.

16. Tast Sitges

Sometimes, the best restaurants are the ones you simply stumble upon. That’s exactly what happened with Tast Sitges (Passeig de Vilanova, 29). It’s more of a cantina than a fancy restaurant and, at first glance, it’s pretty unassuming. But it’s clearly loved by locals, who come here for the fresh seafood, delicious tapas and paella.

And I kid you not: Tast serves one of the best paellas in town! There are no frills here — just perfectly cooked rice, fresh seafood and sensational flavours. Add warm, friendly service and very reasonable prices, and you have a winner.

Other Sitges restaurants to consider

While writing this, I can’t quite believe that I’ve eaten at all these places – and more than once at most of them! The thing that’s cracking me up right now is that I’ve actually eaten at many more restaurants in Sitges.

So, before I wrap up, here are a few more Sitges restaurants that I’ve enjoyed and that certainly deserve a mention:

• Alfresco (Carrer d’en Pau Barrabeig, 4): A popular fine-dining-ish restaurant with a lovely courtyard serving a variety of Catalan and Spanish dishes. It’s quite pricey, but the quality and service are good.
• Bodega Charlie’s (Carrer de Sant Pere, 24): A terrific Italian restaurant with great vibes and equally great pasta.
• NUNNA (Carrer Bonaire, 5): A family-run restaurant popular for its Argentinian steaks and empanadas.
• La Picara (Carrer de Sant Pere, 3): A colourful and lively tapas bar. Try the meatballs and garlic prawns.
• El Secret (Carrer d’Europa, 18): A wonderful mix of cuisines, from Spanish to Indonesian, served under an old olive tree.
• Gofras (Carrer de Sant Pau, 2): If you love waffles and crêpes, don’t think twice! They’re made to order following old family recipes. It’s a popular after-dinner spot, so be prepared for queues.

Eating your way around Sitges

With its Mediterranean setting, lively atmosphere and wonderful mix of Catalan, Spanish and international cuisine, Sitges is one of those places where eating is very much part of the experience.

Whether you’re craving fresh seafood by the beach, a plate of pintxos with a glass of wine, a sizzling steak or a long, leisurely fine-dining experience, there’s always something to discover in the Sitges food scene. And judging by my own experience, you’ll probably find yourself returning to a few favourites – and making plenty of new ones along the way.

Search for accommodations in Sitges.

Read more about places to visit in Catalonia

• The best places to visit in Costa Brava – a road trip guide
• Things to see in Tarragona
• Modernist architecture in Reus
• Things to see and do in Barcelona
• Highlights of Sagrada Familia

Regensburg is one of my favourite cities in Bavaria for precisely this reason. I first visited the city during a Danube River cruise from Budapest to Nuremberg, but I got to see more of the city during my recent southern Germany rail tour, a partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. This last visit to Regensburg reminded me why I love the city, and added a few more reasons.  

A brief history of Regensburg

Regensburg’s history stretches back almost 2,000 years. The Romans established the military camp of Castra Regina here in AD 179 under Emperor Marcus Aurelius, strategically positioning it along the Danube frontier of the Roman Empire. Parts of the Roman fortifications can still be seen today, including the impressive Porta Praetoria.

After the Roman period, Regensburg grew into an important medieval trading centre thanks to its strategic position on the Danube. Long-distance trade brought enormous wealth to the city, and wealthy merchants built the tall patrician houses that still give the old town its distinctive skyline. Regensburg became a Free Imperial City in 1245 and later played an important political role within the Holy Roman Empire. From 1663 to 1806, the Perpetual Imperial Diet met in the city’s Old Town Hall, effectively making Regensburg a political centre of Europe for almost 150 years.

Remarkably, the historic centre survived WWII with much of its medieval fabric intact. Today, Regensburg’s Old Town and Stadtamhof form a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised in 2006 for their exceptional concentration of historic buildings and monuments. In 2021, the city’s Roman heritage gained additional recognition when the Danube Limes was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

When to visit Regensburg

My latest visit to Regensburg was in late-March. It was chilly but as you can see from the photos below, the weather was beautiful and it wasn’t crowded. April to June, and September, are considered to be the best months to visit Regensburg. The city is lively but generally less busy than in summer, temperatures are comfortable, and the parks and riverbanks are beautifully green. Great for walking and outdoor cafés. If you want to experience the city at its most atmospheric, December is also worth considering for the Christmas markets.

Things to see and do in Regensburg

Regensburg is often described as Germany’s best-preserved medieval city, and with more than 1,000 monuments within the UNESCO area, it is easy to understand why. I loved strolling through the old town, with its charming cobbled streets and lanes, vibrant squares, colourful houses and medieval towers. Despite its deep history, Regensburg feels lively and welcoming, with cafés and squares full of energy.

Here are the top things to see and do in Regensburg – I’ve pinned the main attractions on the map below and included a suggested walking route. I’ve also added my restaurant recommendations.

1. Wander around the medieval Old Town

This is my favourite thing to do in Regensburg: simply wander. You’re welcome to follow the walking route in the map above but venture off the route into the atmospheric lanes, especially in the area between Bismarckplatz and the Cathedral. I can also recommend a guided walking tour filled with stories of Regensburg’s colourful past.

The UNESCO-listed old town is wonderfully compact, making it easy to explore on foot. There are narrow lanes, small courtyards, hidden passages and grand merchant houses around almost every corner. The city’s medieval prosperity is particularly evident in its tall patrician towers, built by wealthy merchant families who wanted their homes to reflect their status.

Wander along some of my favourite streets such as Wahlenstrasse (spot the Goldener Turm – ‘Golden Tower’), Goliathstrasse (with its famous Goliath House – a 13th century patrician house made famous by the painting of David and Goliath on its façade), Hinter der Grieb and Bachgasse. 

Just off Goliathstrasse, the 13th century Baumburger Turm towers high above a quiet lane. Further in the lane, you’ll find a plaque that marks the house (Watmarkt 5) where Oskar Schindler and his wife lived after WWII. Schindler, who saved 1,200 Jews during the war, lived in Regensburg for several years before migrating to Argentina.

Haidplatz and Neupfarrplatz are some of the most beautiful squares in the city, surrounded by historic buildings and lively cafés. Bismarckplatz is another good place to pause, particularly if you enjoy watching everyday life unfold around you. Near Bismarckplatz, you’ll find the 11th century St. James’ Church. Founded by Irish, and later Scottish monks, this Romanesque church is famous for its Scottish Doorway, an impressive stone archway adorned with elaborate carvings.

A detour to the east (and back)

At the eastern end of the old town stands the imposing Ostentor, a 13th century gate. If you’ve ventured to this corner of the old town, I suggest returning to the centre via the lush Villa Park. Then continue along the Danube River westwards on the Marc-Aurel-Ufer (a riverside path). Along the way, you’ll pass gardens and medieval towers, including the sinister Anatomy tower.

2. Walk across the Stone Bridge

One of the most famous monuments in Regensburg is the Stone Bridge, or Steinerne Brücke. Built between 1135 and 1146, this magnificent medieval bridge stretches for around 300m across the Danube. It was for centuries the only reliable bridge crossing the river in the region and is regarded as the oldest preserved stone bridge in Germany. Three towers once guarded the bridge but only one remains, the Bridge Tower (Brückturm) on the city side.

Walking across it – one of the top things to do in Regensburg – gives you one of the classic views of the city skyline. The bridge is particularly atmospheric in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light softens the old stone and the Danube takes on a silvery sheen.

Look back towards the old town and you’ll see the Cathedral towers rising above a jumble of medieval rooftops. Ahead lies Stadtamhof, a former independent settlement on the other side of the river.

Look out for the little figure known as the Bruckmandl, or bridge man, sitting on the highest point of the bridge. He gazes towards the cathedral and is associated with a wonderfully dramatic local legend involving a bet between the bridge and cathedral builders and, naturally, the Devil.

3. Admire St. Peter’s Cathedral

Dominating the old town is the magnificent St. Peter’s Cathedral, one of the great Gothic churches of Germany. Construction began in the 13th century, but work stalled in the early 16th century when funds ran out. For more than 350 years, the cathedral stood with unfinished towers. The soaring towers you see today were completed only in the 19th century, during a major restoration ordered under King Ludwig I of Bavaria.

Step inside and the first thing you’ll probably notice is the extraordinary collection of medieval stained-glass windows. Dating mainly from the 13th and 14th centuries, they fill the cathedral with colourful light. Regensburg Cathedral has one of the largest surviving collections of medieval stained glass in Germany.

Take your time here. The cathedral is not merely an impressive Gothic monument; it is one of those places where the details reward a slower look. To learn more about its many stories, I suggest booking a guided cathedral tour at the Info Center (Domplatz 5).

4. Visit the Old Town Hall

At the heart of the old town stands the imposing Old Town Hall, with its distinctive tower overlooking Rathausplatz. The complex dates from different periods, with the oldest section of the tower dating to the 13th century and the Reichssaal, or Imperial Hall, added in the early 14th century.

This is where Regensburg’s political importance in Europe really comes to life. From 1663 until 1806, representatives of the territories of the Holy Roman Empire assembled in Regensburg – forming the Perpetual Imperial Diet – to debate and negotiate political matters. Today, guided tours take visitors through the historic rooms, including the Imperial Hall and the old deliberation rooms. 

5. Find the Roman remains

It’s easy to think of Regensburg purely as a medieval city, but look a little closer and you’ll discover that Roman history is embedded in its foundations. I found it fascinating to chance upon the occasional slice of Roman history in the streets. The Porta Praetoria is the most striking reminder. This was the northern gate of Castra Regina, the Roman legionary camp established in AD 179. Its enormous stone blocks are incorporated into the medieval architecture centuries later, creating a wonderful juxtaposition of Roman and medieval history. It’s also one of the few surviving Roman gates north of the Alps, along with the impressive Porta Negra in Trier.

Continue along Unter den Schwibbögen (street) towards the House of Bavarian History and you’ll find more Roman remains, marked by Document Legionslagermauer (legion camp wall).

For a deeper look at the Roman past, visit the Document Neupfarrplatz or Document Niedermünster. At Niedermünster, archaeological remains beneath the church reveal successive layers of Regensburg’s history, from the Roman military camp through to the medieval period. At Neupfarrplatz, archaeological remains of Castra Regina lie several meters beneath the modern square. The site also has a fascinating connection to Regensburg’s Jewish history, with the medieval Jewish quarter documented here as early as around AD 1000.

6. Step into the churches

Many of Regensburg’s historic churches are a treasure trove for those – like me – who love Gothic, Baroque and Rococo architecture. One church I found particularly impressive was the Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady. Built as part of an abbey in the 11th century, the basilica is one of the oldest and most important Catholic churches in Bavaria. In the 18th century, it received a Baroque/Rococo makeover, which is what visitors see today. 

The Church of the Holy Trinity is a 17th century single-nave church in the early-Baroque style. What makes this church particularly interesting is its pillar-less nave and suspended wooden galleries. It’s also possible to climb the church tower for beautiful views of Regensburg.

During one of my walks across the Old Town, I stumbled upon the 9th century (!) Parish Church of St. Cassian. Its exterior is pretty unassuming but I stepped inside and found a stunning, elaborately decorated nave with Baroque/Rococo stuccowork and frescoes. It was simply breathtaking. 

Another church that is worth a visit is the Lower Minster Parish Church, located behind St. Peter’s Cathedral. This 12th century church has an impressive nave, beautiful artwork and Roman ruins. It’s also the venue of the popular Candlelight concerts.

7. Indulge in Bavarian cuisine

No visit to Regensburg would be complete without eating a sausage or two, and trying other Bavarian specialties… with a beer or two.

The Historische Wurstkuchl, or Old Sausage Kitchen, has been around since the 12th century. It sits beside the Stone Bridge and is one of the city’s most famous culinary institutions. For centuries, it has fed travellers, workers and visitors crossing the Danube.

Order the grilled sausages with sauerkraut and mustard, find a seat outside if the weather is good, and enjoy one of those simple travel moments that somehow becomes a lasting memory.

Other Bavarian restaurants I can recommend include Gaststätte Gravenreuther (try their delicious ‘Bavarian tapas’, a platter with sausages, fried dumplings and vegetables) and Hacker-Pschorr Wirtshaus (roast pork, schnitzels, dumplings and beer in an ancient monastery). I’ve pinned more restaurant recommendations on the map above.

8. Visit the St. Emmeram Thurn und Taxis Palace

For something completely different, visit the magnificent Princely Palace of Thurn und Taxis. The palace occupies the former Benedictine monastery of St. Emmeram and was transformed into a residence for the Thurn und Taxis family. The family became enormously wealthy through their involvement in the European postal system, and their residence in Regensburg reflects that wealth.

The contrast with the medieval streets outside is striking. Inside, you’ll find lavish rooms, ornate furnishings and an altogether more opulent side of Regensburg’s history. If you have time, I suggest going on a guided tour.

9. Visit a museum or two

A lovely museum to start with is the UNESCO World Heritage visitor centre. Located in a 17th century salt warehouse on the banks of the Danube (next to the Stone Bridge), this museum provides an interesting and interactive overview of Regensburg’s history. Admission is free and they also offer free guided tours.

If you’re interested in understanding Bavaria beyond its castles, beer gardens and clichés, the House of Bavarian History is worth a visit. Located near the Danube, this modern museum traces the history of Bavaria from the 19th century to the present day. The displays combine historical objects, multimedia and engaging storytelling, making it an excellent complement to Regensburg’s medieval monuments.

Down the road, the Historical Museum of Regensburg has an impressive collection of religious relics and art from the Stone Ages right up to modern times, with a special emphasis on the Roman times.

Document Kepler is another museum worth visiting. Dedicated to the life and work of Johannes Kepler, a 17th century astronomer and polymath, this small museum is absolutely fascinating.

For something a bit more lighthearted, head for the Dackelmuseum. This quirky museum is a must-visit for lovers of dachshunds (yes, the dog breed).

10. Walk along the Danube

Eventually, give yourself a break from sightseeing and simply follow the river. The Danube is such an important part of Regensburg’s identity that you shouldn’t leave without spending some time beside it. Walk along the riverbanks, sit on the grass and watch the boats glide past, or cross one of the bridges to Wöhrd (an island in the river) or Stadtamhof for a different perspective of the old town.

11. Take a trip to Walhalla

If you’re staying in Regensburg for more than a day (and I recommend that you do), consider making the short boat trip to Walhalla, a spectacular neoclassical memorial overlooking the Danube east of the city.

Commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria, Walhalla was inspired by ancient Greek temples and is lined with busts and memorials to important figures from German-speaking history and culture. The building itself is impressive, but the setting is the real reason to visit. Perched high above the Danube, it offers expansive views across the surrounding countryside.

It is a wonderful contrast to the medieval streets of Regensburg and makes an easy half-day excursion.

12. Spend an evening in Regensburg

One of the things I enjoy most about Regensburg is that the city doesn’t empty out when the day-trippers leave. As evening approaches, the old town takes on a different atmosphere. The crowds thin, the façades are softly illuminated and the squares fill with locals enjoying dinner and drinks. Find a table at one of the restaurants in the old town, order some Bavarian specialities and a local beer, and let the day wind down.

Regensburg: a city made for slow exploration

Regensburg has an extraordinary concentration of history, yet it doesn’t feel frozen in time. This is a living city, with a young population, a lively café and restaurant scene and plenty happening beyond its historic centre.

Give yourself at least two days to explore Regensburg properly. Better still, slow down and stay a little longer. Walk without a map, sit beside the Danube, linger over lunch and allow the city to reveal itself at its own pace.

For me, that’s when Regensburg is at its best.

Two-day Regensburg itinerary

Regensburg can easily be covered in 2-3 days. Here’s a suggested 2-day itinerary:

Day 1

• Morning: start the day at St. Peter’s Cathedral
• Morning – afternoon: follow my walking route across the old town. Stop for lunch at the Old Sausage Kitchen.
• Evening: soak up the evening ambiance in the old town and tuck into a hearty Bavarian meal (see my restaurant recommendations on the map above).

Day 2

• Morning: enjoy a Danube cruise to Walhalla
• Afternoon: after lunch, join a guided tour of the St. Emmeram Palace
• Evening: if you’re spending an extra night in Regensburg, I suggest attending a classical concert in the Trinity Church or a Candlelight concert in the Lower Minster Parish Church. Check at the tourist office for info and tickets.

Where to stay in Regensburg

I stayed at the lovely Hotel Das Regensburg in the historic centre yet just a 7-minute walk from the train station. There’s also a parking garage next door to the hotel.

The hotel has spacious rooms with very comfortable beds, a lovely courtyard and a cheery breakfast room. I especially love how the hotel pays hommage to Barbara Blomberg, a Regenburger in the 16th century who rose to prominence from a simple background.

Other accommodations I can recommend in the city centre include Hotel Goldenes Kreuz (a historic hotel where European royals used to stay) and L’Ostello (a gorgeous hotel just a 5-minute walk from the Cathedral). Find your accommodation in Regensburg.

How to get to Regensburg

Regensburg is a ±2 hour train ride from Munich. If you’re driving, there are numerous parking garages at the edges of the old town. In addition, some hotels offer onsite parking.

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to see in Würzburg
• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to do in Heidelberg
• Things to do in Koblenz
• Things to do in Rostock and Wärnemunde

Note: my visit to Regensburg was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

Aisle or window seat? The pros and cons

Let’s explore the pros and cons of choosing an aisle or a window seat:

Aisle seat: pros

For many travellers, the aisle seat offers one thing above all else: freedom and flexibility.

Easy access

The biggest advantage of an aisle seat is simple: you have easy access to the aisle. Whether you want to stretch your legs, retrieve something from the overhead bin or simply walk around the cabin, you can do so whenever you like. This is particularly valuable on long-haul flights, where getting up every couple of hours helps improve circulation and reduces stiffness.

If you’re the type of person who likes to get up regularly, stretch your legs or walk around during a flight, this is undoubtedly the seat for you. You don’t have to ask anyone to move when you want to leave your seat. You simply get up and go.

Ideal if you use the lavatory often

If you need to use the lavatory several times during a flight, an aisle seat can save you a lot of awkwardness. There’s nothing worse than being in a window seat, finally settling down for a movie or getting comfortable for a nap, only to realise you need to get up. If the person beside you is asleep, you then have the delicate task of waking them and asking them to move.

With an aisle seat, you don’t have this problem. You can simply get up whenever you need to. 

Handy when you have a tight connection

An aisle seat can also be useful when you have a short connection. Your choice of seat won’t necessarily get you off the aircraft quickly – the location of your seat, particularly how far forward you are, is more important – but being on the aisle means you can get ready to leave as soon as the aisle starts moving.

If I’m facing a tight connection, I’ll generally try to get a seat as far forward as possible, preferably on the aisle. Every minute can count when you have to navigate a large airport between flights.

You can stretch more easily

Another advantage is that it’s easier to stretch your legs. Many travel experts recommend standing up regularly during longer flights and doing some simple stretching exercises. From an aisle seat, it’s much easier to do this without feeling awkward or inconveniencing other passengers. You can quickly walk to the galley, stretch your legs or simply move around for a few minutes.

That said, there’s an important caveat: don’t stretch your legs too far into the aisle. It’s very easy for a passing passenger, or a drinks or meal trolley, to catch your foot.

Aisle seat: cons

The freedom of an aisle seat comes at a price: you’re right in the middle of the action.

Say goodbye to uninterrupted sleep

This is probably my biggest gripe with an aisle seat when I’m trying to sleep.

If the person sitting beside you wants to go to the lavatory, you’ll have to get up to let them out. And if they have a weak bladder or simply like to move around a lot, this can happen several times during a flight. There’s something particularly annoying about finally falling into a deep sleep, only to hear, “Excuse me…”.

If you’re a light sleeper, this can quickly become a reason to favour the window seat.

You’re exposed to the traffic

Because you’re sitting beside the aisle, you’re also exposed to constant movement. Passengers walking to and from the lavatories may accidentally bump into your shoulder, elbow or feet, especially if you tend to stretch your legs into the aisle.

Cabin crew pushing meal or drinks trolleys can also come surprisingly close, so you’ll often find yourself pulling your elbows, knees, or even your head back in.

More activity around you

The aisle can also be a surprisingly busy place. Depending on where you’re sitting, you may be close to a lavatory or galley where passengers congregate, chat or wait for their turn. For light sleepers, all this movement can become distracting. On one flight, I was assigned an aisle seat near the lavatories. I found it difficult to sleep, even with my headphones and eye shades on, as people were constantly bumping into my seat.

If you prefer to put on your headphones, close your eyes and retreat into your own little world, the window seat generally offers a more peaceful experience.

Window seat: pros

If you’re someone who enjoys flying itself rather than simply getting from A to B, the window seat has undeniable appeal.

Spectacular views

For me, one of the great pleasures of flying is the view. From a window seat, you can watch cities disappear beneath the clouds, follow coastlines, spot rivers winding through landscapes and see mountain ranges stretching towards the horizon.

And then there are those magical moments: sunrise above the clouds, a sunset glowing across the sky or the lights of a city appearing as you begin your descent.

This is one of the main reasons I almost always book a window seat. I love the views, and I enjoy trying to spot landmarks and taking photos. I even have a section on my blog dedicated to Plane Views! Whether it’s flying over the European Alps, approaching Amsterdam over the Dutch tulip fields or descending towards Mauritius surrounded by turquoise lagoons, the window offers a perspective you simply can’t experience in other seats.

A great seat for sleeping

A window seat has another major advantage: you have something to lean against. Rather than trying to sleep upright while your head slowly drops onto your neighbour’s shoulder, you can lean against the aircraft wall. Add a good neck pillow (Amazon) and you have a much better chance of getting some good sleep. I particularly appreciate this on overnight flights.

You’re not disturbed by your neighbours

There’s also something wonderfully convenient about being tucked into the window. You’re not disturbed if the passengers beside you need to get up. You can continue reading, watching a film or sleeping. Once you’re settled in, you can generally stay there undisturbed for hours.

On long flights, I often have my noise-cancelling headphones on while I watch the views and a movie or two. A window seat is my little corner of solitude – a place where I can relax, watch the world unfold below and simply savour this precious time for myself. For me, that’s one of the biggest attractions of a window seat.

Control over the window shade

Depending on the flight, you can also decide whether to keep the window shade open or closed, although it’s always courteous to consider your fellow passengers, especially if they’re trying to sleep. 

Window seat: cons

Of course, the very thing that makes a window seat comfortable can also make it inconvenient.

You have to disturb your neighbours

The biggest downside is obvious: whenever you want to stretch your legs or visit the lavatory, you’ll need to ask one or even two people to let you out. This is the main reason some people avoid window seats altogether. 

I try to minimise the disturbance by timing my trips to the lavatory with my neighbours. If I notice that one of them is getting up, I’ll usually take the opportunity to go too.

Stretching requires a little creativity

One of the other disadvantages is that you don’t have the same opportunity to get up and stretch your legs without disturbing someone.

I therefore make a point of doing stretching exercises in my seat. I’ll move and flex my feet, rotate my ankles, stretch my legs, and do simple exercises with my hands, wrists and arms. On a long flight, these small movements make a difference. You don’t need a big amount of space to keep your body moving.

You can feel more confined

Some people also find window seats a little claustrophobic, particularly on long flights. You’re essentially tucked into a corner, with one or two passengers between you and the aisle. Perhaps the worst seat on a plane is the window seat in the last row, especially if there’s a wall directly behind the seats. I’ve experienced how claustrophobic this seat is – on a ten-hour flight – and it was no fun at all.

For travellers who value freedom of movement above everything else, the aisle is the obvious choice.

It can feel colder

Depending on the aircraft, the sidewall around the window and the exit doors can become noticeably colder during flight. In addition, on many aircraft types, hidden air vents run along the ceiling and sidewalls to facilitate air circulation in the cabin. Bringing an extra layer, or asking the flight attendant for an additional blanket, can make sleeping against the window much more comfortable.

Aisle or window: which should you choose?

There’s no universal winner – it all comes down to your priorities and preferences.

Choose an aisle seat if you:

• Like getting up regularly during the flight
• Use the lavatory frequently
• Want easy access to the aisle
• Have a tight connection after landing
• Prefer not to disturb other passengers.

Choose a window seat if you:

• Love watching the scenery below
• Plan to sleep during the flight
• Don’t mind remaining seated for longer periods
• Rarely need the lavatory
• Prefer fewer interruptions during the journey.

Personally, I’ll almost always choose the window. I love the views, I enjoy the personal space and I like having something to lean against when I sleep. However, I’ll happily consider an aisle seat when the circumstances call for it – especially on a very long flight when I know I’ll want to get up regularly, or when I have a tight connection.

At the end of the day, neither option is objectively better. The perfect seat is simply the one that best matches your own travel habits. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of each can make your next flight that little bit more comfortable – and that’s always worth planning for before you board.

Rostock is a city of two distinct yet inseparable halves. Situated on the banks of the River Warnow, near the Baltic coast of northern Germany, its historic centre is home to imposing medieval churches, colourful merchants’ houses and monumental gateways that recall its prosperous Hanseatic past. A short train ride away, the river meets the Baltic Sea at Warnemünde, where fishing boats bob beside waterfront cafés, cruise ships glide past a broad sandy beach and a lighthouse watches over the harbour entrance. Often overlooked, Rostock and Warnemünde form a delightful pairing, seamlessly combining grand monuments, urban vibes and a rich maritime history, with a relaxing beach atmosphere. There are lots of things to see and do in Rostock and Warnemünde, making it more than worthwhile to spend a few days there.

I visited Rostock for the first time several years ago. However, due to poor weather, I didn’t get to see much of the city. During my recent rail journey through northern Germany, created in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany, I had the opportunity to revisit, and found a city that was far more layered than I’d expected. It may not possess the perfectly preserved historic centre of Lübeck or the maritime grandeur of Hamburg, but that is part of its appeal. Rostock feels lived-in rather than polished: a university city, working port and former Hanseatic powerhouse whose history emerges gradually as you wander its streets. Add the salty air and seaside atmosphere of Warnemünde, and Rostock becomes an especially rewarding destination for a city break on Germany’s Baltic coast. Together, Rostock and Warnemünde form one of northern Germany’s most rewarding city-and-coast combinations.

A brief history of Rostock

Rostock grew around a settlement on the River Warnow and received city rights in the early 13th century. Its location, with access to the Baltic Sea, soon turned it into an important trading centre. As a member of the Hanseatic League, Rostock became part of the vast commercial network that connected cities across northern Europe. Its merchants grew wealthy, its harbour bustled with ships and warehouses, and increasingly grand brick churches rose above the city. 

Rostock’s intellectual importance also stretches back centuries. The University of Rostock was founded in 1419 and is the oldest university in the Baltic Sea region. 

Like many German cities, Rostock suffered extensive destruction during the Second World War. Later, as part of East Germany (German Democratic Republic), it developed into a major industrial and shipbuilding centre. The cityscape today is consequently a patchwork: reconstructed medieval landmarks, surviving merchants’ houses, East German buildings and modern developments stand side by side. Rather than diminishing Rostock, these contrasts tell the story of a city that has repeatedly adapted while retaining its maritime identity.

Rostock and Warnemünde walking routes

Both places are very walkable. Aside from the boat/train ride between the two, I explored Rostock and Warnemünde on foot. I’ve included my walking routes and the highlights of Rostock and Warnemünde in the map below:

Things to see in Rostock – a walk across the old town

I stayed at the ScanHotels Stadthafen (more about this hotel below) in the harbour area. From there, I embarked on my walking tour across the city’s northeastern quarter before making my way westward along the medieval city walls to Neuer Markt, in the heart of the historic city centre. I continued westward along Kröpeliner Strasse to the Kröpeliner Tor, and from there, I completed the loop via Lange Strasse and the harbourfront. This walking tour can be done in a few hours, though I recommend adding more time for museum visits.

1. Rostock’s eastern quarter

The streets east of Neuer Markt contain some of Rostock’s most atmospheric corners. Here, cobbled lanes wind between restored houses, brick churches and quiet courtyards. The biggest attraction in this quarter is the iconic St. Peter’s Church, with its impressive tower.

St. Peter’s Church once served as an essential landmark for sailors approaching Rostock. Its 117m tower could be seen from far across the flat surrounding landscape, helping ships orient themselves as they navigated towards the River Warnow.

It’s possible to climb the church tower for panoramic views across the old centre, harbour and surrounding districts. 

Not far away stands St. Nicholas’ Church. Parts of the building have been converted into homes, making it an unusual example of a medieval church adapted for modern use. It’s a striking illustration of Rostock’s pragmatic relationship with its architectural heritage: old structures are not only preserved but incorporated into contemporary city life.

2. Medieval city walls

Sections of the old city walls still survive, providing a glimpse of medieval Rostock’s scale. From St. Nicholas’ Church, it’s a short walk to Kuhtor (Cow Gate). Built in the 13th century, it’s one of the oldest city gates and has been beautifully restored. From here, I followed the walls to Steintor.

3. Steintor

The 16th century Steintor (Stone Gate) was built in a Dutch Renaissance style on the site of the former medieval fortifications. It’s an elegant tower guarded by griffin sculptures. Its elaborate Renaissance decoration replaced the austere medieval appearance associated with a defensive gateway, showing how Rostock’s priorities shifted as the city became more prosperous.

Across the road stands the stunning Neo-Gothic Ständehaus, which houses the Rostock regional court.

4. Kerkhoffhaus

Tucked away behind the Town Hall is one of Rostock’s architectural treasures: the Kerkhoffhaus. It’s easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there, but this late Gothic merchant’s house is one of the city’s most beautiful surviving examples of Hanseatic domestic architecture. Built around 1470 for the wealthy merchant and mayor Berthold Kerkhof, the house reflects the prosperity that trade brought to medieval Rostock. Its stepped gable is richly decorated with glazed terracotta panels and Renaissance ornaments that were added in the early 16th century. I enjoyed studying these colourful embellishments, which made the Kerkhoffhaus one of the first buildings in Rostock to embrace Renaissance decoration, signalling a shift away from the Gothic style.

Take a closer look at the façade and you’ll discover that its decorations are surprisingly playful. Alongside dolphins, mythical creatures and classical motifs are terracotta reliefs depicting expressive human faces.

5. Neuer Markt

A short stroll from the Kerkhoffhaus lies Neuer Markt, the spacious main square at the heart of the Altstadt (Old Town). Its western side is lined with a row of colourful gabled houses whose pastel façades immediately evoke the city’s merchant past.

The most prominent building is the Rathaus, or Town Hall. The first thing that struck me was its elegant Baroque façade, and what loomed high behind it. Behind the pink frontage rise a series of Gothic turrets, reminders of the original 13th-century brick building. This architectural layering is characteristic of Rostock. Buildings were enlarged, rebuilt and given fashionable new façades while earlier structures were retained behind them. 

Neuer Markt is also an excellent spot to pause at a café and watch the rhythm of daily life. I stopped at the square for a hearty lunch at Burwitz Legendär.

6. Kröpeliner Strasse

From Neuer Markt, I continued along Kröpeliner Strasse, Rostock’s principal shopping street. Though lined with modern stores, it contains numerous historic façades, ornate gables and narrow side streets that reward closer inspection. It started to rain but that didn’t stop me from taking many photos of the beautiful façades.

One of the most beautiful buildings is the university’s main building at Universitätsplatz. Its richly decorated 19th-century façade is filled with arches, columns, statues and carved details.

The busy square in front of it captures another side of Rostock: young, energetic and unmistakably shaped by its student population. In one corner of the square is the ‘Zest for Life’ fountain, which forms a lively modern contrast to the historic surroundings. Bronze figures splash and tumble through the water, and even on this rainy afternoon, I saw children playing among them and people gathering on the steps.

7. Kulturhistorisches Museum

To delve deeper into Rostock’s past, visit the Kulturhistorisches Museum, housed in the former Convent of the Holy Cross. A short walk from Universitätsplatz, its peaceful cloisters and historic rooms are attractions in themselves, while the collections span religious art, paintings, decorative objects and artefacts connected with the city’s everyday life.

The adjacent convent church is another lovely example of the Brick Gothic tradition that defines so much of the Baltic region’s architectural heritage.

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8. Kröpeliner Tor

From the Kulturhistorisches Museum, I followed the old city walls to the Kröpeliner Tor, another of Rostock’s surviving medieval gates. Alas, it was undergoing restoration and was hidden behind scaffolding.

9. Lange Strasse 

I continued down the road from Kröpeliner Tor to Lange Strasse, in my book, one of Rostock’s most fascinating streets. Before WWII, it was one of the city’s principal thoroughfares, lined with elegant Hanseatic merchants’ houses. Much of the street was destroyed during Allied bombing raids in 1942, and when Rostock became part of East Germany, the socialist authorities chose not to reconstruct it as it had been. Instead, they transformed it into a grand boulevard intended to showcase the ideals of the new socialist state, and as a location for Soviet-style parades.

Broad pavements and imposing apartment blocks in the Socialist Classicist style line much of the street. Unlike the stark concrete apartment blocks that many associate with the former East Germany, these buildings were designed to project optimism and prestige. One aspect I found particularly striking is that the architects also borrowed elements from Rostock’s Hanseatic heritage. Stepped gables, red brick, pointed arches and decorative motifs echo the city’s medieval architecture, creating a unique blend of centuries-old traditions and mid-20th-century socialist urban planning.

10. Hausbaumhaus

Located behind Lange Strasse, stands one of Rostock’s surviving merchant houses: Hausbaumhaus. Dating from around 1490, it’s one of the oldest Hanseatic merchant houses in the city.

Its unusual name translates literally as “House Tree House”, and the reason becomes clear once you step inside. Hidden beneath the floors is a massive oak trunk – the Hausbaum or “house tree” – which rises from the cellar and supports the weight of the upper floors. As the timber framework branches upwards through the building, it resembles the trunk and limbs of a tree. This ingenious engineering solution allowed medieval builders to create an open trading hall on the ground floor.

It was a treat to explore the streets around Hausbaumhaus. Tucked between rows of modern buildings are numerous medieval houses. I enjoyed looking for these medieval gems and stumbling upon maritime-themed murals.

11. St. Mary’s Church

The Marienkirche, or St. Mary’s Church, is Rostock’s greatest medieval monument. Its enormous brick structure reflects the wealth and ambition of the Hanseatic merchants who financed it.

The scale is striking. Tall pillars lead the eye towards the vaulted ceiling, while light filters softly through the windows onto centuries-old furnishings. The church’s most famous treasure is its astronomical clock, constructed in the 15th century. The clock incorporates astronomical information and a calendar, demonstrating the close relationship between science, religion and craftsmanship in the medieval world.

12. Stadthafen

I ended my walk at the Stadthafen, or city harbour, just north of the historic centre. The waterfront no longer functions as the city’s main commercial port, but its quays, warehouses and harbour cranes retain a distinctly industrial atmosphere. Today, the promenade, especially the Hafentreppen (harbour steps), is a popular place for walking, cycling or sitting beside the river. Restaurants and bars occupy parts of the former port area, while boats travel along the Warnow. A massive, multi-phase redevelopment project aims to transform the waterfront area into a vibrant new district, with mixed use urban and green zones.

The harbour is especially pleasant around sunset. It was here that I ended my day in Rostock, watching the light fade across the water and reflecting on how seamlessly the city’s maritime past remains woven into daily life.

Rostock’s relationship with the sea is also celebrated during the annual Hanse Sail, when traditional sailing ships gather in the city’s harbour. The event transforms the Warnow into a spectacle of tall masts and historic vessels, reviving the international seafaring atmosphere that once defined the Hanseatic city.

Things to see in Warnemünde

Warnemünde is easily reached from Rostock’s central station by S-Bahn (20 minutes), making it an essential part of any visit. I chose to take the 1-hour cruise from Stadthafen with the Blaue Flotte company (departure point) and return with the S-Bahn.

Once a small fishing village, Warnemünde became a popular seaside resort while retaining much of its maritime character.

1. Alter Strom

From the pier or the train station, it’s a short walk to Alter Strom, an old channel lined with fishing boats, excursion vessels and former fishermen’s houses. Cafés and seafood stalls occupy the waterfront. As I walked along the waterfront, I picked up whiffs of the salty sea air and smoked fish, which reminded me of something I had to try.

The Alter Strom is the perfect place to try a Fischbrötchen: a simple bread roll filled with herring, smoked fish or fried fish. I found a spot and tucked into a yummy smoked herring roll and a beer.

2. Edvard Munch house

I especially loved the old fishermen’s houses on Am Strom (street), one of which was occupied by Edvard Munch during his stay in Warnemünde. This house is now a museum dedicated to the famous artist. You’ll also find numerous charming accommodations along Am Strom.

3. Alexandrinenstrasse

From Am Strom, I continued along Alexandrinenstrasse, perhaps the most charming street in Warnemünde. It’s a shady street with absolutely gorgeous houses. You’ll also find many references to the village’s fishing and maritime past.

4. Warnemünde lighthouse

The lighthouse is Warnemünde’s best-known landmark. Built from white glazed bricks and standing just over 30m high, it has watched over the beach and harbour entrance since the late 19th century. Its viewing galleries, reached via a spiral staircase, offer sweeping panoramas of the town, beach, harbour and Baltic Sea.

If you attempt the climb, watch your head in the top section of the staircase, and at the door that opens to the viewing gallery – I learned that lesson the hard way!

Adjacent to the lighthouse stands the Teepott, an unmistakable modern building topped by a sweeping curved roof. The contrast between the historic lighthouse and the futuristic structure has become one of Warnemünde’s defining views.

I recommend walking through the sand dunes and onto Westmole, the breakwater extending into the Baltic. The farther you walk, the more the town recedes behind you and the more exposed you become to the wind and sea spray. It is an exhilarating place to watch ferries, yachts and cruise ships entering or leaving the harbour.

5. Warnemünde beach

Warnemünde’s broad beach is among the finest on Germany’s Baltic coast. Soft sand stretches westward from the harbour, backed by a promenade, dunes and rows of Strandkörbe, the distinctive hooded beach chairs found along Germany’s northern coast. The Strandkorb was reportedly invented in Warnemünde in the 1880s by basket maker Wilhelm Bartelmann after a customer requested a seat that would shelter her from wind and sun. The practical design spread rapidly and became an icon of German seaside culture.

I settled at a waterfront terrace for a drink and watched the boats pass along the Alter Strom. As evening approached, I treated myself to a delicious fish dinner at Restaurant Seekiste zur Krim (Am Strom 47).

Where to stay in Rostock

There’s a good variety of accommodations in Rostock. I stayed at the ScanHotels Stadthafen for two nights, which allowed me to explore the city and visit Warnemünde at a leisurely pace. The hotel, located at the harbourfront in the northeastern quarter of the city centre, is absolutely wonderful.

The modern rooms are spacious and very comfortable. I especially loved the modern design, the expansive terrace and the terrific breakfast each morning.

There’s also a beautiful lounge and bar on the ground floor. Adjacent to the hotel, the Gasthaus Unser Bier restaurant serves delicious local specialties and beer!

Another highlight is the rooftop spa! There are various saunas, including an outdoor Finnish sauna, and resting areas with gorgeous views of Rostock.

How to get to Rostock

Rostock is served by frequent trains from Berlin. If you’re travelling by car, I recommend including Rostock as part of a northern Germany road trip. ScanHotels Stadthafen has its own parking garage; ideal if you’re driving.

Read more about places to visit in northern Germany

• Best places to visit in Rügen
• Things to see in Stralsund
• Things to see in Bremen
• Things to see in Potsdam
• Highlights of the Sanssouci palaces and parks

A brief history of Middelburg

Middelburg traces its origins back to the 9th century, when a fortified settlement was built to protect the island of Walcheren from Viking raids. The town steadily grew around this stronghold and, by the Middle Ages, had become an important trading centre thanks to its strategic location along North Sea shipping routes. In 1217, Middelburg was granted city rights.

The city’s golden era arrived during the 17th century. Middelburg became one of the six chambers of the Dutch East India Company (VOC), making it one of the most prosperous cities in the Dutch Republic. 

Middelburg played an important role in the 17th-18th century slave trade. These days, the city is home to the Middelburg slave trade archives of the Middelburg Commerce Company. Housed at the Zeeuws Archief, this UNESCO World Heritage listed collection is one of the most comprehensive records of the 18th century transatlantic slave trade in the world.

Like many Dutch trading cities, Middelburg later experienced economic decline as international trade patterns shifted. During WWII, bombing devastated much of the historic centre. Fortunately, extensive restoration efforts preserved the city’s remarkable heritage, making it one of the most interesting places to visit in The Netherlands.

Things to do in Middelburg

The first thing that struck me about Middelburg wasn’t its famous abbey tower or magnificent Town Hall. It was the sense of calm. As I wandered along quiet canals lined with stately merchants’ houses, the occasional church bell echoed across the city while cyclists glided past at an unhurried pace. Despite being the capital of Zeeland, Middelburg feels wonderfully intimate. I could easily see myself living here!

One of Middelburg’s greatest pleasures is simply wandering without a fixed itinerary. The city centre is filled with beautifully preserved merchants’ houses, narrow alleys, hidden courtyards and charming canals. Many buildings feature richly decorated façades dating from the Dutch Golden Age, reflecting the immense wealth generated by overseas trade. Keep an eye out for ornate doorways, stepped gables and elegant warehouse buildings that once stored valuable imported goods.

Here are the top things to see and do in Middelburg, as well as a walking route around the historic city centre:

1. Admire the stunning City Hall

The heart of Middelburg is undoubtedly the Markt (Market Square), where the spectacular Gothic City Hall immediately captures your attention. Built between the 15th and early 16th centuries, it is widely regarded as one of the finest Gothic civic buildings in the Netherlands.

Its richly decorated façade features dozens of statues of the Counts and Countesses of Holland, while elegant spires, intricate stone carvings and colourful shutters make it one of the city’s most photographed landmarks. Although much of the building had to be restored after wartime damage, the craftsmanship remains extraordinary.

If you’re visiting on a Thursday or Saturday, don’t miss Middelburg’s traditional weekly market held on the Markt.

2. Climb the Lange Jan

Towering above Middelburg’s rooftops is the Lange Jan (“Tall John”), the city’s iconic abbey tower. Rising almost 91 metres above the city, it dominates the skyline and serves as one of Zeeland’s most recognisable landmarks.

The tower forms part of the former Abbey complex and dates largely from the 15th century. Visitors willing to tackle more than 200 steps are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views across Middelburg, Walcheren and, on clear days, much of Zeeland’s patchwork of islands, waterways and polders.

I also recommend exploring the atmospheric streets and lanes in the vicinity of Lange Jan, such as Korte Delft, Reigersstraat and Korte Giststraat.

3. Wander through the Abbey of Middelburg

Adjacent to the Lange Jan stands the Abbey of Middelburg, one of the oldest and most important historic complexes in Zeeland. Founded in the 12th century as a Norbertine monastery, the abbey later became the administrative heart of the province.

Today, the impressive complex houses the provincial government as well as the excellent Zeeuws Museum. Wander through its peaceful cloisters and courtyards before admiring the blend of Romanesque, Gothic and later architectural styles that reflect centuries of expansion.

The abbey remains one of the city’s most atmospheric places and offers a fascinating glimpse into Middelburg’s religious and political history.

4. Learn about Zeeland at the Zeeuws Museum

Housed within the historic abbey buildings, the Zeeuws Museum tells the remarkable story of Zeeland through art, archaeology, fashion and maritime history.

Its collections range from centuries-old tapestries and archaeological finds to regional costumes, silverware and contemporary art. One of the museum’s highlights is its impressive collection of sixteenth-century Flemish tapestries, depicting dramatic naval battles fought in Zeeland’s waters.

The museum provides excellent context for understanding the province’s long relationship with the sea, trade and land reclamation.

5. Visit the Oostkerk

From the Abbey, walk down the lovely Spanjaardstraat to the Oostkerk (East Church). Unlike many Dutch churches, the Oostkerk immediately stands out because of its unusual octagonal design and elegant dome.

Completed in the 17th century, this Protestant church was inspired by classical architecture rather than Gothic traditions, giving it a distinctive appearance unlike almost any other church in the Netherlands. Its bright, symmetrical interior creates a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere, while concerts and cultural events are frequently held here throughout the year.

6. Step back in time at Kuiperspoort

One of my favourite discoveries was Kuiperspoort, a narrow lane tucked away from the busier streets.

Once home to the city’s coopers, who crafted the barrels essential for storing and transporting goods during Middelburg’s trading heyday, this wonderfully preserved alley feels almost untouched by time. Old workshops, brick warehouses, climbing ivy and traditional lanterns combine to create one of the city’s most photogenic corners.

7. Enjoy the Middelburg canals

Like many Dutch cities, Middelburg is best appreciated at walking pace, especially along its canals. I found myself repeatedly stopping to admire yet another gorgeous view. Canal cruises provide a different perspective of the city, revealing historic warehouses and waterside façades that are easy to miss on foot.

8. Enjoy Middelburg’s café and culinary scene

After a day of sightseeing, settle into one of the city’s inviting cafés or terraces. Whether overlooking the Markt, tucked away beside a canal or hidden within a leafy courtyard, you’ll find plenty of welcoming places. Cafés I recommend include Jells Lunchcafé (Nieuwe Kerkgang 3) and Zusje Middelburg (Markt 11).

Middelburg also has a good variety of top-notch restaurants. Seafood naturally features prominently on many menus. Zeeland is famous for its mussels, oysters and lobster, while local cheeses, beers and wines (Zeeland is a fast-growing wine producer) offer equally tempting alternatives. For a fantastic meal, I suggest Restaurant De Gouden Bock (terrific seafood at Damplein 17), ‘t Vliegendt Hert (a wonderful restaurant and wine store at Dam 61) and Het Packhuys Middelburg (top-notch restaurant with harbour views at Kinderdijk 84).

Watching locals pass by while enjoying coffee and a slice of apple pie at De Juf (Damplein 20), or a beer and a bag of fries at Frietboetiek BT’je Anders (Reigersstraat 3), or a glass of wine and a cheese platter at De Moriaan (Damplein 27) is a wonderfully relaxing way to experience the city’s slower pace of life.

9. Try Zeeuwse bolussen

Be sure to try freshly baked Zeeuwse bolussen. These are delicious spiral-shaped pastries coated generously with cinnamon and brown sugar. These sweet pastries originated in Zeeland and remain one of the province’s best-loved delicacies.

10. Explore Walcheren

Walcheren is one of Zeeland’s most scenic islands. Spend a day discovering charming towns, expansive beaches and historic dikes. On the north coast, don’t miss the delightfully picturesque town of Veere.

A short drive west of Middelburg, you’ll find lovely coastal villages such as Domburg and Zoutelande. To the south, the port city of Vlissingen, with its historic harbour, beckons.

In the east, Goes is another beautiful city to explore. Further east of Goes, you’ll find Yerseke, the ‘oyster capital of The Netherlands.

How to get to Middelburg

Middelburg is easily accessible by train from major cities such as Amsterdam (just under 3 hours) and Rotterdam (±1.5 hours). The walking route in the map above starts and ends at the Middelburg Station. If you’re coming by car, I’ve pinned two convenient parking areas on the map.

Where to stay in Middelburg

There’s a good variety of accommodations in Middelburg. For a stay in a historic building, I recommend Hotel Sint Joris. Other hotels I suggest include Eclectic Hotel Copper and The Roosevelt.

A brief history of Gradara

Gradara’s origins date back to the early Middle Ages, but the village truly flourished from the 12th century onwards thanks to its strategic location between the Papal States and the powerful territories of Romagna. Recognising its military importance, the influential Malatesta family transformed Gradara into a formidable fortress, constructing the mighty castle and the impressive double ring of defensive walls that still surround the village today.

Over the following centuries, Gradara passed into the hands of several noble families, including the Sforza and the Della Rovere dynasties, each contributing to the castle’s appearance and prestige. Today, however, Gradara is perhaps best known for a tragic love story rather than a battle. It is traditionally associated with the love affair of Paolo and Francesca, immortalised by Dante Alighieri in his Divine Comedy, and later formed the inspiration for Rodin’s marble sculpture, “The Kiss“. Whether the events truly unfolded within these castle walls remains uncertain, but the legend has become an inseparable part of Gradara’s identity and lends the village an unmistakably romantic atmosphere.

Things to see and do in Gradara

Whether you’re touring the Marche countryside or spending time along the Riviera Romagnola, Gradara, with its stunning castle, formidable walls and charming streets, makes for a wonderful excursion into Italy’s medieval past.

From Rimini, its a 20-30 minute drive to Gradara, and an hour+ by public transport. If you’re coming by car, there’s a (paid) parking lot just outside the medieval walls (map). From there, it’s a minute’s walk to the main entrance of the village. Here are the top things to do in Gradara:

1. Lose yourself in the medieval streets

The best way to experience Gradara is simply to wander. Once I stepped through the ancient gateway, I found myself strolling along narrow cobbled lanes lined with honey-coloured stone houses, flowering balconies and artisan shops. Every street seemed to reveal another picturesque corner, another inviting café or another viewpoint across the surrounding countryside.

Unlike some of Italy’s better-known medieval villages, Gradara has managed to retain a wonderfully authentic feel. Even during the busier parts of the day, it was easy to find a quiet lane where only the sound of footsteps echoed against the centuries-old stone walls.

Don’t forget to look beyond the rooftops every now and then. From several points around the village, sweeping views stretch across the green hills of Marche towards the shimmering Adriatic Sea.

2. Explore the magnificent castle

Dominating the village is the spectacular Gradara Castle, one of the finest preserved medieval fortresses in Italy. Crossing the drawbridge felt like stepping back several centuries as I entered a world of grand reception halls, richly decorated chambers and sturdy defensive towers.

The beautifully restored rooms contain antique furniture, paintings, tapestries and armour that offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the noble families who once ruled here. One room, in particular, attracts countless visitors: the chamber traditionally linked to Paolo and Francesca. Standing there, it’s easy to understand why this tale of forbidden love continues to capture the imagination more than seven hundred years after Dante first wrote about it.

Before you enter the castle, I suggest popping into the Church of St. John the Baptist to admire the beautiful frescoed ceiling.

3. Walk the medieval walls

One experience I highly recommend is walking along the village’s medieval walls. The elevated walkway offers wonderful panoramic views over the castle, the village rooftops and the gently rolling countryside beyond.

From up here, it’s also easier to appreciate just how formidable Gradara’s fortifications once were. The thick stone walls, watchtowers and battlements remain remarkably intact, providing a fascinating insight into medieval military architecture while offering some of the best photo opportunities in the village.

4. Pause for lunch or an aperitivo

To escape the afternoon heat, I settled down at one of the shady terraces for a leisurely lunch. It was the perfect way to soak up Gradara’s relaxed atmosphere while watching visitors drift through the ancient streets.

Several restaurants serve traditional dishes from Marche, including fresh handmade pasta, local cheeses, cured meats and excellent regional wines. Following a friend’s suggestion, I chose Cibovagando, a cosy restaurant on the main street, Via Umberto I. The cured meats, served with a local wild cherry jam (Visciola), were quite simply amazing.

I devoured my second course, a papardelle pasta with wild boar, despite already feeling full – it was that good! I finished the meal with an indulgent tiramisu.

Another restaurant that was recommended to me was Ristorante Il Bacio.

5. Browse the artisan shops

If you’re looking for a souvenir, browse the artisan shops selling ceramics, locally-produced olive oil and wines before heading back.

Gradara may be small enough to explore in half a day, but it leaves an impression that lasts much longer. Between its beautifully preserved medieval streets, magnificent castle, sweeping countryside views and timeless love story, it perfectly captures the romance and history that make Italy’s hilltop villages so irresistible. It’s the sort of place that I would happily return to time and time again.

Where to stay in Gradara

It’s also possible to spend a night in Gradara. One accommodation I checked out was Inferno e Paradiso. Facing the village square, it features a striking (one might say evocative) modern interior with floating beds and glass hot tubs, in a beautifully preserved medieval building. If I’d had more time, I would certainly have spent a night there!

Read more about Italy on Velvet Escape

• The fortress town of Civitella del Tronto in Abruzzo
• Exploring the Art Cities of Emilia Romagna
• Things to see in Lecce, Puglia
• A road trip across Piedmont
• Things to do in Bologna

The name Sanssouci comes from the French phrase meaning “without worries,” reflecting Frederick’s desire for a peaceful refuge away from the formal pressures of court life. Today, visitors can explore a remarkable collection of royal residences and landscaped gardens that showcase more than two centuries of Prussian history. 

The best way to visit Sanssouci

The Sanssouci complex is one of the top things to see in Potsdam. It’s possible to visit the complex as a day trip from Berlin. However, I recommend spending 1-2 nights in Potsdam to allow yourself more time as there’s just so much to see, both in the city centre and the Sanssouci complex. Whether you’re interested in art, architecture, history, or simply enjoying nature, Sanssouci is absolutely worth visiting and exploring at a slower pace. 

I suggest purchasing a day ticket to gain access to the palaces. Keep in mind that entrance to Sanssouci Palace is restricted to time slots. The other palaces and monuments can be visited at your leisure. It’s a vast complex that requires quite a bit of walking – I clocked up about 7km (4+ miles). I recommend bringing water and snacks with you as there are only a handful of eateries. Furthermore, they’re all located at the edges of the complex.

Highlights of Sanssouci – a walking tour

My suggested Sanssouci walking route covers the main sights. There are two add-on routes which you can choose to follow if you have more time to spare. The descriptions below follow the sequence of my walking route.

• Start your walk at the Emperor Frederick Mausoleum.
• Continue through the park to the Sanssouci Palace – I recommend booking the earliest possible time slot (10am).
• After touring the palace, walk down to the historic windmill and pass the New Chambers.
• Then cross the Sicilian gardens and the park to the Chinese House.
• Option 1: If you have time to spare, head to the Roman Baths and continue to the Charlottenhof Palace.
• Or head directly to the New Palace from the Chinese House.
• From the New Palace, you can catch the train from Park Sanssouci station to Potsdam Hbf (central station, for trains back to Berlin); or take bus 695 at Maulbeerallee to the Potsdam city centre.
• Option 2: If you have more time, continue from the New Palace to the Orangery Palace, stopping along the way at the Botanical Gardens.
• NOTE: as at June 2026, the Roman Baths and Orangery Palace are closed for renovations.

Emperor Frederick Mausoleum

One of the lesser-known yet historically significant landmarks within Sanssouci Park is the Emperor Frederick Mausoleum (Kaiser-Friedrich-Mausoleum). Located adjacent to the Friedenskirche (Church of Peace), the mausoleum was built between 1888 and 1890 as the final resting place of Emperor Frederick III and his wife, Empress Victoria, the eldest daughter of Britain’s Queen Victoria.

Frederick III occupies a unique place in German history. Often remembered as the “99-Day Emperor”, he reigned for only ninety-nine days in 1888 before succumbing to throat cancer. Historians have long speculated that had he lived longer, Germany might have followed a more liberal political path. His wife Victoria shared his constitutional and reform-minded ideals, making the couple popular among those who hoped for a more progressive German Empire.

Designed in an Italian Renaissance style, the mausoleum blends harmoniously with the surrounding architecture of the Friedenskirche complex. Inside, you can admire elegant marble sarcophagi and finely crafted sculptures. The atmosphere is notably serene and reflective, offering a striking contrast to the grandeur of the royal palaces in the park.

Sanssouci Palace

At the heart of the complex stands Sanssouci Palace, the elegant Rococo residence built between 1745 and 1747. Unlike many European royal palaces designed to impress foreign dignitaries, Sanssouci was conceived as an intimate retreat where Frederick the Great could relax, write philosophy, play music and host close friends.

The palace sits atop a series of terraced vineyards that cascade down the hillside. Its single-storey design reflects Frederick’s preference for comfort and accessibility over grandeur. Inside, you can admire lavishly decorated rooms featuring gilded ornamentation, intricate stucco work and beautiful paintings.

One of the palace’s most famous rooms is the Marble Hall, which served as a venue for intellectual discussions. Frederick regularly invited leading thinkers of the Enlightenment, including the French philosopher Voltaire, to stay at Sanssouci. 

Adjacent to the palace stands the Picture Gallery (Bildergalerie), completed in 1764 and considered Germany’s oldest purpose-built museum building. In this museum, Frederick the Great displayed his prized collection of paintings by masters such as Rubens, Van Dyck and Caravaggio.

Historic windmill of Sanssouci

Standing beside the terraced vineyards below Sanssouci Palace is one of Potsdam’s most charming landmarks: the Historic Windmill (Historische Mühle von Sanssouci). The original windmill (from 1738) predated the construction of Sanssouci Palace and belonged to a local miller.

According to a famous Prussian legend, Frederick the Great became irritated by the noise generated by the mill and wished to acquire the property. When the miller refused to sell, the king allegedly threatened to use his royal authority to seize it. The miller reportedly responded, “There are still judges in Berlin,” implying that even the king was subject to the law. Whether entirely true or partly embellished, the story became a powerful symbol of justice and the rule of law in Prussia. Frederick is said to have admired the miller’s courage, and the windmill remained standing.

The windmill was demolished and rebuilt in a Dutch style in 1787. The historic mill was destroyed during WWII and a replica was completed in the 1990’s based on historical plans and illustrations. Visitors can explore the interior to learn about traditional milling techniques and the role windmills played in 18th century rural life.

Chinese House

Among my favourite attractions in the park is the Chinese House, a small pavilion built between 1755 and 1764. This gilded structure exemplifies the 18th century European fascination with East Asian art and culture, known as Chinoiserie.

Golden statues of musicians and tea drinkers surround the building, creating an atmosphere of whimsical elegance.

Although the design bears little resemblance to authentic Chinese architecture, it reflects the era’s fascination with distant cultures and exotic aesthetics. I found it absolutely fascinating to see how Europeans at the time viewed Eastern cultures.

The New Palace

While Sanssouci Palace was designed for privacy, the Baroque-style New Palace (Neues Palais) was intended to showcase Prussia’s strength and prestige. Constructed between 1763 and 1769 after the Seven Years’ War, it served as a statement that Prussia remained prosperous despite the immense costs of the conflict. The New Palace is arguably the most impressive of the palaces in the Sanssouci complex.

The New Palace is considerably larger and more imposing than Sanssouci. Its massive façade stretches for hundreds of meters and contains over 200 rooms. The interior is equally impressive, featuring marble halls, grand staircases, crystal chandeliers and richly decorated state apartments.

Among its highlights is the spectacular Grotto Hall (Grottensaal), whose walls are decorated with thousands of shells, minerals, and semi-precious stones. Take your time to admire the adornments made of shells and stones – the craftsmanship is absolutely astonishing.

The palace’s most impressive ceremonial space is the Great Marble Hall (Marmorsaal). Clad in richly coloured marble and adorned with gilded decoration, allegorical sculptures and a grand ceiling painting celebrating the achievements of Prussia, the hall was designed to awe visiting dignitaries and demonstrate the kingdom’s growing power and prestige.

Frederick reportedly referred to the New Palace as a form of “fanfaronade“, meaning a display of bravado. Yet despite its extravagance, he rarely lived there, preferring the quieter atmosphere of Sanssouci Palace. 

The Last Emperor of Germany

The palace was the favoured residence of Emperor Frederick III and Empress Victoria. Their son, Wilhelm II (the last Emperor of Germany), made it his home until he abdicated to The Netherlands in 1918. Unknown to many, he had much of the palace furniture transported to his new home, Huis Doorn, in The Netherlands. The furniture was discovered by the Dutch in the 1970’s and returned to Potsdam.

Other historical treasures of Sanssouci

Charlottenhof Palace

Located within the park’s southern section, Charlottenhof Palace offers a striking contrast to the Rococo splendor of Sanssouci. Built in the 1820s for Crown Prince Frederick William, later King Frederick William IV, the palace was inspired by classical Roman villas.

Architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel, one of Germany’s most celebrated architects, designed the elegant residence. The palace’s clean lines, harmonious proportions and serene surroundings reflect the ideals of Neoclassicism. The palace’s interior features themed rooms inspired by ancient Greece and Rome, while the surrounding gardens incorporate carefully planned vistas and ornamental features.

Roman Baths

Another notable site is the Roman Baths complex, inspired by ancient Italian villas. Designed by Schinkel and Ludwig Persius, the picturesque ensemble combines classical architecture with romantic landscaping.

Temple of Friendship

Nearby, the Temple of Friendship commemorates Frederick the Great’s beloved sister, Wilhelmine, and demonstrates the king’s devotion to family.

Orangery Palace

The Orangery Palace stands as one of the most distinctive buildings in Sanssouci Park. Constructed between 1851 and 1864 during the reign of Frederick William IV, the palace reflects the king’s fascination with Italian Renaissance architecture.

Stretching nearly 300 meters in length, the palace resembles the grand villas and monasteries of Italy. It was designed to house exotic plants during the winter months, including orange, lemon, and palm trees. Inside, visitors can view rooms decorated with copies of famous Renaissance paintings by artists such as Raphael. The palace’s elevated terraces provide beautiful views across the surrounding gardens.

The Gardens and Park Landscape

The true magic of Sanssouci lies not only in its palaces but also in its extraordinary landscape. The park evolved over more than a century, resulting in a rich blend of formal Baroque gardens, naturalistic English landscapes and ornamental features.

The famous terraced vineyards below Sanssouci Palace remain one of the park’s defining images. During the warmer months, fountains, flowerbeds and tree-lined avenues create wonderful scenery for visitors. Throughout the grounds, you’ll encounter statues, obelisks, temples and hidden garden pavilions. Each path reveals a new perspective, making the park as much an artistic masterpiece as the buildings themselves.

The legacy of Sanssouci

The Sanssouci Palaces and Parks offer far more than a collection of historic buildings. Together, they tell the story of Prussia’s rise, the ambitions of its rulers and the evolution of European art and architecture across two centuries. It’s an awe-inspiring complex with a rich history, that deserves to be enjoyed at a slower pace.

I’d visited Erfurt once before. Alas, the sun was already setting when I arrived and I’d only planned a one night stay with a morning departure. I vividly remember my long walk across Erfurt in the evening, and promising myself that I would one day return. While planning my recent northern Germany rail trip, I had the opportunity to add Erfurt to my itinerary. I’m so glad I did, because this city is simply enchanting!

A brief history of Erfurt

Erfurt’s history stretches back more than 1,200 years. First mentioned in the 1st century AD, the city quickly grew into an important trading centre thanks to its strategic location at the crossroads of major European trade routes. During the Middle Ages, Erfurt prospered through the trade of woad, a plant used to produce blue dye that was highly sought after across Europe. The wealth generated by this trade funded the construction of impressive churches, monasteries and merchant houses, many of which still stand today. 

The city was also an important intellectual centre. The University of Erfurt, founded in 1379, became one of the most prestigious institutions in the German-speaking world. Its most famous student was Martin Luther, whose years in Erfurt would profoundly influence both his life and the course of European history.

Things to see in Erfurt – a walk around the old town

My self-guided walking tour of Erfurt’s medieval town, which can be covered in 1-2 days, starts at the impressive Domplatz. From here, lose yourself in Erfurt’s enchanting Altstadt (old town). This is where the city truly shines. The narrow lanes are lined with colourful façades, half-timbered houses and hidden courtyards.

Unlike some historic centres that feel staged for visitors, I love how Erfurt’s old town remains vibrantly lived-in. Students cycle past medieval buildings, residents shop at local bakeries and cafés spill onto bustling squares.

As you wander across the old town, keep an eye out for the many Renaissance and Baroque details tucked away above doorways and windows. The beauty of Erfurt lies as much in these small discoveries as in its headline attractions. Here are the top things to see in Erfurt, the sequence of which follows the walking route in the map above.

1. Domplatz

A walking tour of Erfurt naturally starts at Domplatz, one of Germany’s largest and most impressive market squares. Framed by historic buildings and bustling cafés, the square is dominated by the magnificent silhouette of St. Mary’s Cathedral and St. Severus Church, perched atop a broad stone staircase. It’s such an impressive sight that I spent quite a bit of time there to admire the architecture and take photos from different angles.

The cathedral’s soaring Gothic architecture immediately commands attention. Step inside to admire the remarkable stained-glass windows and the Gloriosa, the world’s largest medieval free-swinging bell, cast in 1497. Next door, the twin-spired St. Severus Church creates one of the most iconic cityscapes in Germany. On market days, the square comes alive with vendors selling local produce, flowers and regional delicacies. The square is also used for concerts and opera performances.

Andreasstrasse Memorial

For a deeper understanding of Germany’s more recent history, make time to visit the Andreasstrasse Memorial, a stone’s throw from Domplatz. Housed in a former prison used by both the Nazi regime and later the East German secret police (Stasi), the memorial documents the experiences of political prisoners and those who resisted dictatorship.

Through personal testimonies, multimedia exhibits and preserved prison cells, visitors gain a powerful insight into life under two oppressive regimes. As I examined the exhibits, I realised how the memorial is such a poignant reminder of the importance of freedom, democracy and human rights.

2. Cathedral and St. Severus Church

The twin churches represent the spiritual heart of Erfurt and offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s medieval prosperity. The combination of Romanesque and Gothic architecture reflects centuries of construction and adaptation.

The cathedral houses an impressive collection of religious artefacts, while the atmospheric interior of St. Severus Church provides a quieter and equally rewarding experience. Together, they form one of the most striking ecclesiastical ensembles in Europe.

3. Haus zum Sonneborn

Among Erfurt’s many historic buildings, Haus zum Sonneborn (House of the Sunborn) stands out as a fine example of the wealth once enjoyed by the city’s merchant class. Little is known about the building – it may have been the house of a merchant and/or a warehouse for woad. The two holes in the wall above the entrance suggest it could have been a brewery at some point – a bundle of grain would be placed in the hole whenever freshly-brewed beer was available. 

Nowadays a popular wedding venue, this 16th century Renaissance-era building is a worthwhile stop for anyone with an interest in Erfurt’s rich architectural heritage. 

4. Rathaus (Old City Hall)

Standing proudly on Fischmarkt, Erfurt’s historic market square, the neo-Gothic Rathaus is one of the city’s most striking civic buildings. Constructed in the late 19th century, its richly decorated façade and imposing tower reflect the confidence and prosperity of Erfurt during that period.

Step inside to admire the grand staircase and a series of impressive murals depicting key moments in Thuringian history, including scenes from the life of Martin Luther. Even if you don’t venture indoors, the Rathaus forms a beautiful backdrop to Fischmarkt and is an excellent place to pause and soak up the atmosphere.

5. Dämmchen

The River Gera quietly winds through the city, creating numerous scenic corners and viewpoints. Several pleasant walking paths follow the waterways, offering a more relaxed perspective of Erfurt.

One of Erfurt’s most charming and photogenic lanes, the Dämmchen is a narrow pedestrian path that runs alongside a branch of the River Gera near the Krämerbrücke. As you wander along this peaceful stretch, look out for the beautifully preserved half-timbered houses, their reflections creating postcard-perfect scenes. Flower boxes, small gardens and historic wooden façades add to the fairy-tale atmosphere, making it one of the most picturesque corners of the old town. It’s also a great place to see the fairytale-like exterior of the Krämerbrücke.

6. Augustiner Monastery

Erfurt played a pivotal role in the life of Martin Luther. After enrolling at the University of Erfurt in 1501, he studied law before experiencing a life-changing moment during a violent thunderstorm near the city. Fearing for his life, Luther vowed to become a monk if he survived.

True to his promise, he entered the Augustinian Monastery in Erfurt in 1505. Visitors can tour the monastery, where Luther lived and studied for several years. The complex contains fascinating exhibits about his life and the beginnings of the Protestant Reformation.

For anyone interested in European history, following Luther’s footsteps through Erfurt provides valuable insight into the formative years of one of Christianity’s most influential figures.

7. Krämerbrücke

No visit to Erfurt would be complete without crossing the Krämerbrücke, or Merchants’ Bridge. This is the city’s most famous landmark and one of the most extraordinary bridges in Europe.

Spanning the River Gera, the bridge is lined on both sides with beautifully preserved half-timbered buildings. Originally constructed in stone in 1325, it remains the longest continuously inhabited bridge in Europe. Walking across the bridge is one of the top things to do in Erfurt. I remember my first visit to Erfurt when I searched for the bridge only to realise that I was actually on it!

Be sure to browse the independent shops and pause to appreciate the picturesque views of the bridge from the riverbanks. One of the shops to look out for on the bridge is Goldhelm Schokolade (chocolates). What started as a small local business has now grown into an institution. And rightfully so – their chocolates are fantastic! Grab a pack of their Krämerbrücke truffels.

8. Old Synagogue

The Old Synagogue is one of Erfurt’s most remarkable historical sites. Dating back to the 12th century, it is among the oldest synagogues in Europe. 

Before being uncovered as a synagogue in the 1990’s, the building was used as a restaurant and party venue! Today, it serves as a museum documenting the rich history of Erfurt’s medieval Jewish community. The highlight is the Erfurt Treasure, a collection of gold coins, silverware and jewellery hidden during the 14th century and rediscovered centuries later.

9. Schlösserbrücke

Another picturesque spot along the River Gera is the Schlösserbrücke, a historic stone bridge that offers lovely views of the surrounding waterways and medieval cityscape. While it may not enjoy the fame of the Krämerbrücke, the bridge is an integral part of Erfurt’s network of rivers and canals that once powered mills and supported trade throughout the city.

10. Petersberg Citadel

For panoramic views over Erfurt, make your way to Petersberg Citadel. One of Europe’s largest and best-preserved Baroque city fortresses, it occupies a strategic hilltop position overlooking the old town. Built on the foundations of a medieval Benedictine monastery, the star-shaped Baroque citadel was strengthened by Napoleon in the 19th century. If you’re unable to climb the stairs to the fortress, there’s also an elevator.

Walking along the ramparts rewards visitors with spectacular views of cathedral spires, medieval rooftops and the surrounding Thuringian countryside.

The fortress itself is fascinating, with underground tunnels, bastions and centuries of military history waiting to be explored.

Discover hidden courtyards

One of my favourite things to do in Erfurt is explore its hidden courtyards. Many historic merchant houses conceal beautiful inner courtyards accessible through unassuming archways.

These peaceful spaces reveal another side of the city – quiet gardens, artisan workshops, small cafés and beer gardens, and centuries-old architecture. They offer a glimpse into the lives of the wealthy merchants who once dominated Erfurt’s economy. 

Enjoy Erfurt’s café culture and food

After a day of sightseeing, take time to enjoy one of Erfurt’s many cafés and restaurants. The city’s relaxed atmosphere encourages lingering over coffee and cake while watching local life unfold. Some of the places I enjoyed stopping at include Fischmarkt, Domplatz, Benediktplatz and Wenigemarkt.

Regional Thuringian cuisine is worth sampling, particularly the famous Thüringer Rostbratwurst. Pair it with a locally brewed beer and you have the perfect reward after a day spent exploring the city on foot. I particularly enjoyed the stall and beer garden at the foot of St. Severus Church. They offer some of Erfurt’s best Thuringian sausages, along with beautiful views of Domplatz.

For terrific Thuringian cuisine in Erfurt, I recommend Platzhirsch (Wenigemarkt 10, near Krämerbrücke), Zum Güldenen Rade (Markstrasse 50, near Rathaus) and Wirtshaus am Dom (Domplatz 12).

For indulgent coffee, cakes, ice-cream and chocolate, visit Goldhelm Schokolade Café (Kreuzgasse 5, near Dämmchen). 

Outside the old town

Should you have time, I also recommend walking along Anger, roughly located between the old town and the train station. A popular shopping street, Anger is filled with absolutely gorgeous buildings in a variety of architectural styles.

I can also recommend an excursion to Egapark, a 15-minute tram ride from the old town. The park is home to extensive flower gardens and huge greenhouses. My favourite section is Danakil, the desert and jungle house. 

Why Erfurt is worth visiting

Erfurt may not enjoy the international fame of Berlin, Munich or Heidelberg, but that is precisely part of its appeal. It remains refreshingly authentic, offering visitors a chance to experience Germany’s medieval heritage without overwhelming crowds.

Whether you are admiring the soaring cathedral, crossing the enchanting Krämerbrücke, uncovering hidden courtyards or tracing the footsteps of Martin Luther, Erfurt rewards slow exploration. For travellers seeking history, architecture and genuine atmosphere, not many places in Germany are as captivating as Erfurt.

How to get to Erfurt

Erfurt is less than 2 hours away by train from Berlin, and about 2.5 hours from Frankfurt.

Where to stay in Erfurt

I recommend a stay of 1-2 nights in Erfurt. There’s a good variety of hotels and B&B’s in the old town. I stayed at Dorint Hotel am Dom, a business hotel with spacious rooms situated opposite the Erfurt Theatre. Another hotel I can recommend is the lovely, family-owned Hotel Domizil. Located at Domplatz, this hotel has beautiful rooms and apartments, and they serve a terrific breakfast. 

Read more about Germany on Velvet Escape

• Things to see and do in Würzburg
• Things to see in Aachen
• A northern Germany road trip
• Things to see and do in Trier
• Main River road trip

I didn’t hesitate and booked a one-night stay for an opportunity to sleep in the sky! The hotel rooms occupy the 100th to 114th floors, making the hotel one of the highest in the world. With rates starting at around EUR350/USD400 per night, it certainly wasn’t cheap, but I felt the experience would be worth it. And… was it? Well, keep reading.

My stay at the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur

One thing you should know about me: I’m scared of heights. Yet somehow, that fear hasn’t stopped me from doing things that would make most fellow acrophobes cringe; like skydiving in Catalonia, hot-air ballooning in Jordan or zip-lining in the Andes. As my stay at the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur approached, I found myself dreaming of tumbling out of bed into a vast abyss. It seems my subconscious had a lot to say about sleeping high above the city!

Despite my anxiety, I was very excited about this stay and I soon found myself standing at the foot of the Merdeka 118. The ground floor entrance is a cavernous space covered in marble, with escalators that transport guests to the elevator lobby.

The lobby

The main lobby is located on the 75th floor. From the ground level, elevators whisk guests up to the lobby in under a minute, accompanied by about three ear pops. I stepped out of the lift and was greeted with big smiles before being guided to the lobby area. A large space with floor-to-ceiling windows, the lobby is thoughtfully broken up into sections by elegant patterned screens, giving it an intimate feel. Behind the reception desks rose the upper reaches of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscraper-studded skyline, a view so surreal that it left me oddly unruffled.

The check-in process was quick and amicable. The friendly receptionist confirmed my dinner reservation, and suggested I check out the swimming pool on the 99th floor. He then showed me to my room on the 103rd floor – a 24-second ride in the high-speed elevator.

My room

I’d booked a Corner King Room and requested a view of the Petronas Twin Towers. The room itself is a whopping 57 square meters (614 square feet) and I couldn’t wait to see it. With great anticipation, I entered the room. An L-shaped corridor led me past the coffee and minibar station, lavatory and walk-in closet before opening into the bedroom and bathroom. I loved the generous use of wood and other natural materials throughout the interior, which gave the room a warm, homely feel.

A chaise longue ran along the windows – a thoughtful design detail I particularly appreciated, as it conveniently blocked the vertigo-inducing downward view. The view of the Kuala Lumpur skyline, with the mountains in the distance, was simply breathtaking! I think my gasp was audible. The receptionist, clearly no stranger to such reactions, smiled and continued the room orientation.

The large king size bed dominated the bedroom, that was further furnished with a table and chair, and that chaise longue with the amazing view. The bed proved delightfully springy yet supportive, while the sumptuous duvet and sheets felt unmistakably luxurious.

I appreciated the control panel next to the bed which allowed me to adjust the light mode in the room as well as the shades.

The bathroom

Screen doors divided the bathroom from the bedroom, revealing a space that was elegant, inviting and functional. It featured dual sinks, a beautifully designed cubicle with a rain shower, and, my personal favourite, a fabulous oval bathtub set dramatically beside the window.

I didn’t have to think twice – I filled up the tub and indulged in a hot soak with a fantastic view!

The lavatory

I’m a big fan of Japanese toilets, so I was delighted to find one in the lavatory. For the uninitiated, Japanese toilets are marvels of technology, packed with features that elevate an everyday necessity into a surprisingly luxurious experience.

This particular model came with an automatic lid that opened the moment you stepped into the lavatory, and a heated seat. Mounted on the side was a control panel offering an impressive array of functions, from cleansing sprays to warm-air drying.

The view

As my excitement gradually subsided, I realised, rather unexpectedly, that I hadn’t felt even the faintest pang of fear. I’m not quite sure why – perhaps the panorama was simply too surreal to process, or perhaps the chaise longue softening the downward view made all the difference. Whatever the reason, I was grateful I felt no fear because that view was just too spectacular to shy away from. It’s not every day that you get to see the Petronas Twin Towers at eye level!

I was also thankful for the clear weather. A friend who stayed there a month earlier wasn’t so lucky. Rainy, foggy weather meant his room overlooked little more than drifting masses of white cloud throughout his stay.

The 99th floor

Before dinner, I went down to the 99th floor to check out the pool, spa and gym. The Sky Infinity pool looked very inviting whilst the large gym was well-equipped. If I had a longer stay, I would most certainly have made use of these facilities, and considered a spa treatment. 

Dinner at Park Lounge

The Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur has two restaurants, Park Lounge (for all-day dining) and Merdeka Grill, and the city’s highest bar, Cacao Mixology & Chocolate. These are all located on the 75th floor.

I had dinner at the Park Lounge, which serves a good assortment of local, Asian and Western dishes. The restaurant staff were personable and friendly, but the service lacked the polish and attentiveness one might expect at a five-star property. In Kuala Lumpur’s highly competitive luxury hospitality segment, it’s the finer details that truly set a hotel apart. The Park Hyatt’s distinctive location and stunning rooms may give it an edge, but the food and beverage service still has some ground to cover.

That said, the food was great! For my main course, I ordered the Ayam Percik (grilled chicken in a rich, spicy gravy) and it was delicious. 

Night views

After dinner, I embarked on the journey to the ground floor to see the Merdeka 118 by night. The tower features a state-of-the-art dynamic LED façade and laser illumination system which lights up at night. I’ve been told that the light shows are especially dazzling during special events and holidays. 

It truly is an awe-inspiring experience to stand at the foot of the tower. Seen from the side, the diamond-shaped façade zig-zags upwards towards the sky. From the front, the tower looks like a giant rocket.

I returned to my room, stretched out on the chaise longue with a glass of wine and simply took in the sparkling night view.

The next morning

After a blissful night’s sleep in that luxurious bed, I woke just after sunrise. I had closed the blinds before going to bed, so opening them felt like unveiling a surprise. As they lifted, I was greeted by an enchanting panorama of the city wrapped in soft morning mist. I put on the fluffy bathrobe, made myself a coffee and watched the sun climb while the veil of mist slowly dissolved into the morning light.

Breakfast at Park Lounge

After a quick shower – Gosh, I adored that bathroom! – I headed downstairs to the Park Lounge for breakfast. I was welcomed with a lovely smile and a cheery “Good morning” before being shown to my table. Along the way, I passed the impressive breakfast buffet laid out across several long counters. 

I was welcome to enjoy anything from the buffet as well as order freely from the à la carte menu, all included in the breakfast rate. There was a huge variety of Malaysian, Asian and Western dishes, from Egg Royale and Waffles to Black Truffle Dumplings and Indian Roti Canai. The food was plentiful and simply wonderful.

Conclusion

Despite the less than perfect restaurant staff service, I had an absolutely terrific stay at the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur. The hotel interior is elegant and refined, my room was stunning and the view is simply majestic. In addition, one of my favourite parts of Kuala Lumpur, Chinatown, is only a short stroll away. So, yes, in my opinion, a stay at the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur is absolutely worthwhile. If you’re visiting Kuala Lumpur and looking for a unique and luxurious stay in the sky, look no further than the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur.

Read more about Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

• Things to do in Kuala Lumpur
• Things to see and do in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown
• An afternoon in the Kuala Lumpur Bird Park
• Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur review
• Ruma Hotel Kuala Lumpur review

Exploring northern Germany by rail

I kicked off this rail trip in Hamburg, where I hopped onto a train to Lübeck (less than an hour away). Located on an island in the Trave River, Lübeck is a stunning medieval town with a rich Hanseatic history. From Lübeck, I made my way to Rostock, Germany’s most important Baltic port. My next stop was Erfurt, another medieval gem which I travelled to via Berlin. Not exactly situated in northern Germany, I added Erfurt to my itinerary as it’s been on my wish-list for a long time! From there, I made my way back to Berlin and continued to Potsdam, a city of palaces and lakes located southwest of Berlin.

Northern Germany rail trip: 8-day itinerary

• Day 1: Lübeck (1 night)
• Day 2: Train to Rostock in the late-afternoon
• Day 2-4: Rostock and Wärnemunde (2 nights)
• Day 4: Train to Erfurt in the morning, via Berlin
• Day 4-6: Erfurt (2 nights)
• Day 6: Train to Potsdam in the morning, via Berlin
• Day 6-8: Potsdam (2 nights)

This rail journey across northern Germany, created in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany, brought together a delightful mix of history, culture and nature. The cities I visited have so much to offer and are best enjoyed at a slower pace. These four cities, Lübeck, Rostock, Erfurt and Potsdam, are part of the 17 heritage cities known as Historic Highlights of Germany. The 17 cities are typically university towns with a rich historical legacy and vibrant cultural and culinary scenes. These cities have another important point in common: they are all easy to explore on foot. Here are my impressions of each city:

Lübeck

My first glimpse of Lübeck (map) was unforgettable: the city’s famous church spires rise above a skyline of regal gabled houses and terracotta roofs, hinting at its power and prosperity during the Middle Ages when it was one of Europe’s most influential trading centres. Often referred to as the ‘Queen of the Hanseatic League’, Lübeck’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed old town, located on an island in the Trave River, is a joy to explore!

Highlights of Lübeck

The first thing I did was an hour-long cruise around the old town, in an e-boat that was easy to pilot myself. The views of the town and its lush parks were absolutely gorgeous! You can hire an e-boat at BoatNow or join one of the Trave River cruises.

I spent the rest of my time wandering through the old town’s maze of atmospheric alleys, discovering hidden courtyards and exploring its historic buildings. Although much of the city was devastated during WWII, the old town has been painstakingly restored, recapturing much of its medieval splendour. These are the highlights of Lübeck:

Holstentor

The most iconic landmark is undoubtedly Holstentor, the monumental twin-towered city gate that has become synonymous with Lübeck itself. Built in the 15th century, its imposing brick façade once defended one of Europe’s wealthiest ports. 

Salzspeicher

A stone’s throw from Holstenstor, you’ll find Salzspeicher, a row of six historic warehouses on the banks of the Trave River. The oldest of these is from 1579 and the newest dates to 1745. These warehouses were used to store salt brought from Lüneberg, before being transported to other parts of Europe.

Lübeck old town

From Salzspeicher, I crossed the bridge into the old town and quickly discovered that Lübeck’s old town rewards slow exploration. Narrow alleyways known as Gänge and hidden courtyards branch unexpectedly from wider streets, revealing tiny houses, flower-filled passages and pockets of tranquillity. Around almost every corner stands another magnificent example of Brick Gothic architecture, the style that defines much of northern Germany. 

The old town is also where you can find the fascinating Hansemuseum. This museum is dedicated to the history of the Hanseatic League, an association of rich merchant cities in northern Europe that dominated trade in medieval times.

Gänge – the alleyways and hidden courtyards of Lübeck

I spent an entire afternoon on a quest to find and see many of the gänge in the old town. They can be found throughout the old town, connecting busy streets and functioning as passageways into hidden neighbourhoods. Some of the most charming gänge include the Bäcker Gang, Hellgrüner Gang, Durchgang and Höveln Gang.

St. Peter’s Church

Another thing I did was climb up the tower of St. Peter’s Church, which offers one of the best views in the city. From above, Lübeck appears as a sea of terracotta roofs punctuated by church spires and waterways. 

Historic City Hall

The Lübeck City Hall (Stadtverwaltung) is an architectural masterpiece dating back to the 13th century. With its elegant arches and towering spires, it’s an absolutely majestic sight. 

Niederegger Marzipan

The city is famous for marzipan, and a stop at the historic Niederegger (across the road from the City Hall) is practically obligatory. Their marzipan creations range from traditional loaves to elaborate confectionery sculptures. Above the shop is a lovely café where I indulged in a coffee and a delicious slice of cake.

St. Mary’s Church

No visit to Lübeck would be complete without stepping inside the 14th century St. Mary’s Church, one of the masterpieces of Gothic architecture in Europe. Its soaring nave inspired church builders across the Baltic region, and the atmosphere inside is both grand and deeply contemplative.

An der Obertrave

A lovely promenade along the River Trave, An der Obertrave is lined with gorgeous medieval and Renaissance houses, and packed with lively cafés during the warmer months. It’s a delight to see on a stroll along the promenade and from a river cruise.

Schiffergesellschaft

For dinner, Lübeck’s maritime heritage shines through menus featuring fresh fish, creamy seafood soups and northern German classics. Just across from Jakobikirche, I found one of Lübeck’s oldest and most iconic restaurants: Schiffergesellschaft. This atmospheric restaurant is famous for its local (seafood) specialties and its historic interior.

Where to stay in Lübeck

On this trip, I stayed at the lovely Hotel LIHO, a family-owned hotel roughly between the train station and the old town. The rooms are comfortable (the minibar is included in the price), breakfast is abundant and I loved the quiet coffee/snack corner. 

I can also recommend Atlantic Hotel Lübeck, a modern, luxurious hotel in the old town near St. Peter’s Church. 

Rostock

From Lübeck, the railway journey eastwards to Rostock traverses landscapes of forests, fields and scattered villages before eventually arriving in one of Germany’s most important Baltic ports.

Rostock (map) carries its maritime identity proudly – reminders of centuries of seafaring tradition appear everywhere. I had a wonderful time getting to know Rostock. The first thing that struck me was its broad palette of architectural styles, which clearly reflects the city’s past: from a powerful medieval maritime city to being the largest and most important port during the socialist GDR (East Germany) period. Read more about things to see and do in Rostock.

Highlights of Rostock

Rostock is easy to explore on foot. I started my walk at St. Peter’s Church, then continued along the old city wall before crossing the centre of the old town in the direction of the harbour. The highlights, listed below, can comfortably be covered in half a day. 

St. Peter’s Church

The 13th century St. Peter’s Church, the city’s oldest, is especially striking as its 117m high tower – restored in 1994 with contributions from the public – can be seen from miles away.

Steintor

The 16th century Steintor (Stone Gate) was built in a Dutch Renaissance style on the site of the former medieval fortifications. It’s an elegant tower guarded by griffin sculptures.

Across the road stands the stunning Neo-Gothic Ständehaus, that houses the Rostock regional court.

Neuer Markt

The city’s historic heart centres on the Neuer Markt, a handsome square lined with colourful gabled buildings and dominated by the elegant Town Hall. 

Heavily rebuilt after WWII, Rostock still retains an appealing sense of historical texture. These layers of texture are embodied in the Town Hall – originally a 13th century Brick Gothic building in the typical northern German Hanseatic style, a pink Baroque façade was added in the 18th century.

St.Mary’s Church

Adjacent to the square is the imposing Brick Gothic St. Mary’s Church, the biggest of the town’s three medieval churches. The church houses one of northern Europe’s oldest astronomical clocks, still functioning after more than five centuries. It’s also home to one of the largest single stained glass windows in Europe.

Kröpelinerstrasse

From Neuermarkt, I walked the length of the Kröpelinerstrasse, the city’s lively pedestrian thoroughfare. Lined with boutiques, cafés and fragments of medieval and Renaissance architecture, the street’s true character emerges when one looks upward.

Universitätsplatz

The street leads up to Universitätsplatz (University Square), with its lively ‘Zest for Life’ fountain. The University of Rostock, founded in 1419, is one of the oldest in Germany.

A stone’s throw from the square is the Cultural History Museum of Rostock, a beautiful museum housed in a 13th century monastery.

Langestrasse

The Langestrasse is perhaps one of the most interesting streets in Rostock. This broad boulevard was built during the socialist GDR period as a location for Soviet-style parades. Meant to showcase the socialist classicism style, the street is a fascinating blend of monolithic façades – typical of Soviet-style architecture of the 1950’s – with Brick Gothic architecture, a reference to the city’s Hanseatic past.

Behind the Langestrasse, in the Wokrenterstrasse, stands the Hausbaumhaus, one of the oldest and best preserved merchant houses from the Hanseatic era.

I strolled around the neighbourhood and spotted other references to Rostock’s maritime history, before making my way down to the harbour.

Warnemünde

I ended my walking tour of Rostock at the harbour, where I was just in time for the 2:30pm cruise to Warnemünde on board the Rostocker 7.

The seaside district of Warnemünde (map) transformed the experience entirely. Whereas it was cloudy and rainy in Rostock, the clouds made way for bright, blue skies as we approached the Baltic coast. I stepped off the boat and within minutes, I was wandering along a boat-filled inner harbour and charming streets lined by picturesque fishermen’s houses.

Highlights of Warnemünde

Warnemünde possesses an easygoing coastal charm. Fishing vessels bob in the harbour, cafés spill onto promenades and locals stroll along the waterfront eating freshly smoked fish sandwiches. The beach itself is broad, sandy and surprisingly expansive. 

Alter Strom

The Alter Strom (Old Stream) is an inner harbour that’s lined on both sides by cafés, restaurants, shops and fishermen’s boats (where fish sandwiches are sold). Don’t forget to stop at one of the fish counters to order a delicious fischbrötchen (fish sandwich).

Edvard Munch house

I especially loved the old fishermen’s houses on Am Strom (street), one of which was occupied by Edvard Munch during his stay in Warnemünde. This house is now a museum dedicated to the famous artist.

Alexandrinenstrasse

Parallel to Am Strom is the Alexandrinenstrasse, perhaps the most charming street in Warnemünde. It’s a shady street filled with absolutely gorgeous houses.

Lighthouse

The Warnemünde Lighthouse and adjacent tea pot-shaped building have become beloved local symbols. Climbing the lighthouse rewards visitors with sweeping views across the harbour entrance, beaches and the Baltic Sea. If you attempt the climb, watch your head in the top section of the spiral staircase, and at the door that leads to the viewing platform – I learned that lesson the hard way.

Warnemünde beach

The Warnemünde beach is one of the widest stretches of sand on the Baltic coast. A nudist beach during the GDR era, it’s now a mixed beach with a separate nudist section. One of the most unique features of Warnemünde beach are the Strandkorb beach chairs. Invented in Rostock but first introduced in Warnemünde, the Strandkorb are synonymous with Warnemünde, and can nowadays be found across the German Baltic coast.

Before returning to Rostock, I tucked into a delicious fish dinner at Restaurant Seekiste zur Krim (Am Strom 47).

Back in Rostock proper, the evening atmosphere is lively but relaxed, shaped partly by the city’s university population. I ended the day at the harbour, arriving just in time to watch the sun sink below the horizon, and reflect on my time in Rostock. This is a city that strikes a wonderful balance, where history, maritime culture and seaside charm are seamlessly woven into a rewarding destination.

Where to stay in Rostock

I stayed at the ScanHotels Stadthafen and loved the experience! Located at the harbour, on the fringes of the old town, this hotel boasts a beautiful, modern interior and top-notch facilities like a large gym and an expansive rooftop spa. 

The rooms are spacious and very comfortable, with an absolutely wonderful bed and a sizeable bathroom.

The hotel serves a fantastic breakfast, and there’s also a bar/lounge and a large terrace. Next door, Gasthaus Unser Bier is a restaurant that serves excellent German food and beer.

Erfurt

Heading south by rail, the scenery shifts subtly. Flat northern landscapes gradually give way to gentler hills and broader agricultural plains until the train arrives in Erfurt, the capital of Thuringia and one of Germany’s most enchanting cities.

I was excited to visit Erfurt (map). Years ago, I spent a night in Erfurt during a tour of Thuringia and Saxony, but it was almost dark by the time I arrived. I fell in love with the city during my evening stroll and promised myself that I would one day return. 

Compared to the other cities, Erfurt feels immediately different. Where Lübeck speaks of merchant wealth and Rostock of maritime life, Erfurt radiates medieval intimacy. Spared the destruction of WWII, its old town is remarkably preserved, filled with timber-framed houses, cobblestone lanes and atmospheric squares. Read more about things to see and do in Erfurt.

Highlights of Erfurt

I spent two wonderful days crisscrossing the UNESCO World Heritage-listed old town, soaking up the lively ambiance and enjoying the rustic medieval buildings and beautiful squares. These were my highlights:

Domplatz

The Domplatz (Cathedral Square) is the focal point of the city. Overlooked by the magnificent 15th century Erfurt Cathedral and St. Severus Church, it’s an impressive square that literally makes you stop in your tracks. Perched atop a broad staircase, the twin landmarks dominate the skyline and create one of Germany’s most impressive urban panoramas. 

Erfurt Cathedral

The 14th century Gothic Cathedral, with its towering nave and spires, is a sight to behold. Inside, the cathedral houses beautiful stained glass windows and the famous Gloriosa bell, considered one of the world’s largest medieval free-swinging bells. Martin Luther was ordained in the cathedral in 1507. 

Krämerbrücke

The city’s defining image is the Krämerbrücke, or Merchants’ Bridge, one of Europe’s rare inhabited bridges. Lined with charming houses, artisan workshops, galleries and cafés, it is far more than a simple crossing. Walking across the bridge is a highlight of any visit. I remember my first visit to Erfurt when I searched for the bridge only to realise that I was actually on it!

One of the shops to look out for on the bridge is Goldhelm Schokolade (chocolates). What started as a small local business has now grown into an institution. And rightfully so – their chocolates are fantastic! Grab a pack of their Krämerbrücke truffels.

You can also visit the nearby Goldhelm Schokolade café (Kreuzgasse 5) which serves excellent coffee, hot chocolate, cakes, ice-cream and, of course, chocolates. 

Augustinian Monastery

This is also a city deeply connected to the life of Martin Luther, who studied here as a young man before entering the Augustinian Monastery. Visiting the monastery offers valuable insight into the formative years of one of Europe’s most influential religious figures.

Old Synagogue

One of the oldest in Europe, this 12th century Synagogue was only uncovered in the 1990’s, and has a fascinating exhibition about the Jews in Erfurt during the Middle Ages. It also houses a beautiful collection of gold and silver coins and jewellery, most of which date from the 13th-14th centuries.

Petersberg Citadel

Perched atop Petersberg (hill) overlooking Domplatz, the 17th century Citadel is one of the largest and best preserved city fortresses in Europe. Built on the foundations of a medieval Benedictine monastery, the star-shaped Baroque citadel was strengthened by Napoleon in the 19th century.

Its extensive maze of underground passageways is (partially) open to the public, and there are wonderful views of Erfurt from the citadel walls.

Stasi Prison

I also toured the former Stasi prison in Andreasstrasse, which was both poignant and inspiring. Stories of oppression and resistance during the GDR era are vividly brought to life in this absolutely fascinating museum.

Despite its medieval landscape, Erfurt never feels like an open-air museum. The city is vibrant, lived-in and refreshingly authentic. Markets fill public squares, university students gather at cafés and locals can be found outdoors whenever the weather permits.

Thuringian food

Food plays a big role in the Erfurt experience. The region is famous for Thuringian sausages, and sampling a freshly grilled Thüringer Rostbratwurst from a market stall is practically mandatory. Paired with mustard and a crusty bread roll, it is simple, hearty and delicious. One of the most popular stalls can be found at Domplatz, at the foot of the St. Severus Church. 

For a slower culinary experience, Erfurt’s traditional restaurants serve regional dishes alongside excellent local beers and wines. One restaurant I can recommend is Zum Güldenen Rade (Marktstrasse 50), which is well-known for its Thuringian cuisine.

Where to stay in Erfurt

There’s a good variety of hotels and B&B’s in the old town. I stayed at Dorint Hotel am Dom, a comfortable business hotel situated opposite the Erfurt Theatre. Another hotel I can recommend is the lovely, family-owned Hotel Domizil. Situated at Domplatz, this hotel has spacious rooms and apartments, and they serve a terrific breakfast. 

Potsdam

The final stage of my northern Germany rail journey led northwards to Potsdam. Located just 30 minutes outside Berlin, Potsdam (map) often appears on day-trip itineraries. Yet it deserves far more than a hurried excursion.

There’s something undeniably special about Potsdam. Renowned for its lavish palaces, the city is enveloped by expansive parks and about 20 lakes. Its elegant Baroque centre, laid out in an organised grid, is lined with boutiques, inviting restaurants and countless cafés that lend the city a relaxed sophistication.

Compared with the high-octane energy of Berlin, Potsdam feels like a classy spa retreat. During my stay there, I quickly picked up on the local ‘joie de vivre’! Everywhere I went, I saw locals sipping wine at the many terraces, strolling in the parks or out on their boats. I absolutely loved it!

Highlights of Potsdam

This is a city best experienced slowly. I spent my two days in Potsdam wandering around the Baroque old town, and enjoying the palaces, parks and lush surroundings. For a relatively small city, there’s really a lot of things to see and do in Potsdam. These are the highlights:

Baroque old town

The focal point of the old town is the Alter Markt. This grand square reflects the city’s baroque heritage. Dominating the square is the Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas’ Church), an impressive neoclassical building completed in 1850. Its massive dome and elegant proportions make it a key landmark in the city centre. You can climb the dome for panoramic views of the city. In the centre of the square stands the Obelisk, erected in 1753 to commemorate the city’s builders and architects.

Another attraction at the square is the Museum Barberini, a world-class art museum housed in a reconstruction of the Barberini Palace. The museum hosts rotating exhibitions featuring everything from impressionist masterpieces to contemporary art.

The Stadtschloss (City Palace) was once the royal residence of the Prussian kings but is now the seat of the Brandenburg Parliament. Its grand façade, with Corinthian columns and intricate sculptures, serves as a reminder of Potsdam’s royal past. Stop to admire the Ringer colonnade and the golden angels of the Angel Staircase on the side of the palace.

Dutch Quarter

The Dutch Quarter introduces an entirely different architectural flavour. Built in the 18th century for Dutch artisans invited to Prussia, its 150 neat red-brick buildings house stylish cafés, boutiques and galleries. Wandering these streets feels unexpectedly cosmopolitan and wonderfully relaxed.

One eatery I can recommend in this quarter is Zum Vliegende Holländer (Benkertstrasse 5), an atmospheric restaurant that’s known for its schnitzels and roasts.

Other highlights in the old town

Another Potsdam landmark is the Brandenburg Gate. Smaller than Berlin’s version but older, as the locals will point out. Across the road from the Brandenburg Gate lies the Luisenplatz, an elegant square that just so happened to be the venue of a wine festival during my visit!

For a panoramic view of Potsdam, head up to the top of the Garrison Church (there’s an elevator). 

Down the road from the Garrison Church, you’ll find the Potsdam Film Museum. It’s worth visiting for its fascinating insight into German cinema history, and features immersive exhibits on film-making, iconic productions and the legacy of nearby Babelsberg Studios, the oldest large-scale film studio in the world.

Sanssouci Palaces and Parks

Potsdam’s crowning glory is undoubtedly Sanssouci Palace, the intimate yet exquisite summer residence of Frederick the Great. Set amidst terraced vineyards and landscaped gardens, the Rococo-style palace embodies a lighter, more personal expression of royal luxury.

I recommend arriving early in the morning (by 10am), before crowds gather, for a more relaxing tour of the palace.

The gardens, filled with ornamental fountains, sculpted pathways, temples, follies and hidden viewpoints, are immense. One could easily spend an entire day exploring Sanssouci Park alone!

Don’t miss the Chinese House in the park. This little palace is famous for its exquisite Rococo architecture, gilded oriental-inspired details and idyllic setting, offering a fascinating glimpse into the 18th-century European fascination with Asian art and design.

The other major palace in the Sanssouci complex that’s an absolute must-visit is the New Palace. Considered the last great Prussian Baroque palace, the New Palace is a breathtaking display of Prussian opulence, with lavishly decorated state rooms, grand halls and an architectural scale that vividly reflects the ambition and power of Frederick the Great. The Grotto Hall (the first stop on a tour of the palace), encrusted with seashells, minerals and fossils, is absolutely breathtaking. The last stop, the Marble Hall, is equally stunning! Read more about the Sanssouci palaces and parks.

Cecilienhof Palace

History enthusiasts will find the Cecilienhof Palace particularly compelling. It was here that world leaders gathered in 1945 for the Potsdam Conference, helping shape the geopolitical future of postwar Europe. 

Alexandrowka Russian colony

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Potsdam Castles and Parks, the Alexandrowka colony consists of 13 wooden houses built by King Frederik William III in the 19th century. The log cabin style houses were gifted by the king to signify the close relationship between the Hohenzollern and Romanov royal families.

Glienicke Bridge

Glienicke Bridge is a famous Cold War-era bridge where East and West exchanged captured agents. The Steven Spielberg movie, “Bridge of Spies” starring Tom Hanks, was partially filmed here.

Potsdam lakes

Potsdam’s appeal extends into its landscapes. Lakes, wooded areas and rivers weave through the city, creating countless opportunities for scenic walks, cycling and boat excursions. On sunny days, locals picnic beside the water or paddle leisurely along quiet channels. I loved the Weisse Flotte steamboat cruise (departs from the quay adjacent to Mercure Hotel Potsdam City) that sails down the Havel River to the Tiefersee and Jungfemsee (lakes). 

Where to stay in Potsdam

There are many accommodation options in Potsdam. I stayed at the MAXX Hotel Sanssouci. Located just off Luisenplatz, the hotel is a stone’s throw from Sanssouci Park and is a short walk to the attractions in the Baroque old town. 

Final notes

Travelling between Lübeck, Rostock, Erfurt and Potsdam by rail reveals Germany’s extraordinary diversity. Within a single journey, I got to experience medieval trading cities, Baltic coastlines, cathedral skylines and royal gardens. It was a wondrous trip, one which I would certainly recommend to anyone!

There are many great reasons to visit Germany and one point that stands out is its vast rail network. For this trip, I combined tickets with reserved seats on the ICE (InterCity Express high-speed trains) with the Deutschland Ticket, a monthly subscription ticket (€63/month) which covers unlimited travel on regional rail lines and local public transport.

Read about my other rail and road trips in Germany:

• A southern Germany rail tour
• Historic cities and Christmas markets in western Germany
• Rivers, wines and history in western Germany
• A northern Germany road trip
• Road trip along the Main River
• The castles of King Ludwig II

A (very) brief history of Ipoh

Ipoh’s history is deeply tied to the tin mining boom of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Once a small village, it rapidly grew into one of the richest towns in Southeast Asia due to its abundant tin deposits, and earned it the nickname “City of Millionaires”. During British colonial rule, Ipoh flourished economically, leading to the construction of grand colonial buildings that still stand today. After the decline of the tin industry in the 1980’s, the city experienced a quieter period before reinventing itself as a cultural and tourism hub. Today, Ipoh preserves its historical identity while embracing modern development, making it a fascinating place where past and present coexist.

Top things to do in Ipoh

Often overshadowed by bigger cities like Kuala Lumpur and George Town, Ipoh stands out because it offers an authentic Malaysian experience without the overwhelming crowds. The city may seem sedate to the casual passerby but spend some time there and it will slowly reveal itself. Its combination of heritage architecture, natural beauty and culinary excellence creates a well-rounded destination in Malaysia that’s absolutely worth visiting.

Whether you’re sipping coffee in a century-old café, strolling through shady arcades, exploring hidden caves and lakes, or enjoying local delicacies, Ipoh offers wonderful experiences at every turn. Its slower pace allows visitors to truly soak in the atmosphere, making it not just a stopover, but a destination worth savouring. Here are my recommendations for things to see and do in Ipoh (the places mentioned are pinned on the map below):

1. Explore the Old Town

Ipoh Old Town is the heart and soul of the city. Walking through its streets feels like stepping back in time, with well-preserved Neo-Classical, Edwardian and Art Deco buildings lining the roads. Here, you’ll find famous white coffee shops, traditional bakeries, artisanal shops and boutique cafés that blend old-world charm with modern aesthetics. I loved the rustic shopfronts, some of which are decorated with colourful lanterns and ornate wood carvings.

Famous colonial landmarks include the Ipoh Town Hall, Railway Station and the Birch Memorial Clock Tower.

One place that’s a charming mix of old and new is Kong Heng Square. Filled with boutiques, cafés such as Plan B, pop-up stalls and ancient-looking trees, it’s a a treat to simply stroll around the alleys and soak up the artsy vibes.

The Ipoh Heritage Trail is a marked route that takes visitors past the city’s most important heritage sites.

2. Stroll through Ipoh’s historic lanes

In 1892, a blaze destroyed large parts of Ipoh’s Old Town, which were subsequently rebuilt with the help of the city’s tycoons. One tycoon, Yao Tet Shin, restored three lanes to honour his wives: Wife Lane (now called Lorong Hale), Concubine Lane (Lorong Panglima) and Second Concubine Lane (Market Lane). The area soon became notorious for its opium dens, brothels and casinos.

These days, Concubine Lane is a tourist magnet, packed with souvenir shops, bakeries and cafés. 

My favourite is Market Lane. Broader and quieter than Concubine Lane, it’s home to numerous artisanal shops and colourful street art.

Another lovely lane to explore is Lorong Bijeh Timah (or Tin Alley). Here, you’ll find tiles with paintings of Ipoh scenes. Drop by at Hilltown, a vintage tea shop, and Tin Alley, an artists’ studio.

3. Discover colourful street art

In recent years, Ipoh has become somewhat of a street art haven. As you explore the old town, you’ll find murals scattered around the area, many of which were created by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic, notable for his street art in Penang. These artworks bring the city’s history and culture to life in a playful and engaging way. You’ll find great examples in Market Lane, Lorong Hale and Jalan Masjid.

4. Enjoy Ipoh White Coffee

One of the top things to do in Ipoh is to try its white coffee. Ipoh white coffee is unique due to its traditional roasting process, where coffee beans (Arabica, Robusta, and Liberica) are roasted with palm oil margarine, and sometimes sugar, creating a lighter, caramelised color and a smooth, creamy, and mild flavour. It’s traditionally served with sweetened condensed milk to produce a rich, frothy and aromatic beverage that is less bitter than conventional roasted coffee.

You’ll find Ipoh white coffee in many cafés (kopitiam) and you can also visit the Old Town White Coffee Experience Centre (2, Jalan Panglima). My favourite thing to do is to pair a cup of Ipoh white coffee with an Ipoh kaya puff, a pastry filled with a spread made from coconut milk, eggs, sugar and aromatic pandan leaves.

5. Indulge in Ipoh’s famous food scene

Ipoh is widely regarded as one of Malaysia’s top food destinations. From street food stalls to traditional kopitiams, every meal in Ipoh is an experience. There are many dishes unique to Ipoh that draw visitors from near and far, especially in the weekends. One of my favourites is bean sprout chicken, known for its tender chicken and crisp bean sprouts. It sounds like a very simple dish but there’s just something about the chicken, and the plump and tasty bean sprouts, that make it so special.

Another must-try is Ipoh hor fun, a dish with flat rice noodles in a savoury, light broth made from chicken bones and fried prawn heads. It’s served with shredded chicken, prawns and chives. Other yummy dishes I can recommend include Ipoh curry mee, Hakka mee, assam laksa and cendol.

Whenever I’m in Ipoh, I always make it a point to drop by at Woong Kee Beancurd, for their specialty tau fu fah. This silky-smooth beancurd dessert is made from coagulated soy milk, and is commonly served in a warm ginger sugar syrup. You can also add toppings like red beans or sesame seeds but I prefer mine plain.

There are dozens of kopitiam (local coffee shops with stalls selling a variety of dishes) in Ipoh where you can try these dishes. Ones I can recommend include Kong Fu Kopitiam (coffee shop with a martial arts theme!), Nam Heong and Hock Kee Kopitiam. A more upmarket place serving local favourites is Shan Cheng Laksa.

A yummy salted peanut candy

One thing I never leave Ipoh without is its fantastic peanut candy! This light and crunchy, sweet and salty treat is so good! In my book, the best place to taste and buy it is Sin Weng Fai Peanut Candy Shop (69 & 69A, Jalan Yau Tet Shin).

6. Browse the artisanal stores

If you enjoy browsing around artisanal stores, like I do, you’re in for a treat in Ipoh. There are numerous artisanal stores in the Old Town that sell a wide variety of woodwork, handicraft, ceramics, furniture and paintings.

Some of my favourites include stores like Gift Store no. 49 (Market Lane), Hilltown tea (1, Lorong Bijeh Timah) and AM Zakka (23, Jalan Panglima), and markets like Kong Heng artisan market (Kong Heng Square) and SENI Market (Jalan Dato Maharajalela). 

7. Discover hidden lakes

A defining feature of Ipoh is its range of limestone hills that almost encircle the city. These forest-clad humpback-like hills harbour hidden networks of caves and a great variety of flora and fauna. During the mining boom, the hills were mined for limestone. The quarries left behind were subsequently flooded by rain and now form hidden lakes only accessible through former mining tunnels. Nowadays, these limestone hills and lakes are one of the top natural attractions in Ipoh.

Called Tasik Cermin 1 & 2 (Mirror Lake and Hidden World), they’re a short drive from the city centre and can easily be combined with a visit to one of the cave temples (see below). 

There are two lakes here, but Tasik Cermin 2 (Hidden World) is the one I’d recommend for its unforgettable boat ride. The experience begins as you quietly glide through a 120m-long tunnel, emerging into a hidden lake framed by towering limestone cliffs and dense jungle. The stillness of the water and the dramatic natural setting create a truly magical, almost otherworldly atmosphere.

It gets busy, especially during the weekends, so I recommend getting there early (by 10am) to avoid the crowds.

8. Visit the cave temples

In the vicinity are numerous cave temples such as Perak Cave Temple and Kek Lok Tong Cave Temple (closed for renovations as at April 2026). My favourite is the Sam Poh Tong Temple, which has temples at the foot of the limestone hills as well as inside the caves. It also features a beautiful ornamental pond.

The highlight for me is the red pagoda built inside a huge cavity in the hills, and accessible through the caves.

9. Learn about the city’s tin mining history

Ipoh has a fascinating history of immigrants striking it rich during the tin-mining boom. The Han Chin Pet Soo museum and the Ho Yan Hor museum next door offer interesting insights to this history.

10. Spend a day at the Lost World of Tambun

The Lost World of Tambun is a large theme park on the outskirts of the city that’s perfect for families. There are theme rides, a large waterpark with slides, natural hot springs to soak in and much more.

Where to stay in Ipoh

Ipoh offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit every budget and travel style, from cosy guesthouses and serviced apartments to upscale hotels with modern amenities. One accommodation I can recommend is The Farmhouse Ipoh, a charming inn known for its warm hospitality, spacious and comfortable rooms, and a distinctive English-inspired ambiance.

Nearby is another wonderful accommodation: Ipoh Bali Hotel. It features a gorgeous Balinese interior and furnishings, and spacious, atmospheric rooms.

If you’re travelling as a group or with your family, check out TUI Blue The Haven Resort. Surrounded by towering limestone hills and fronting a lake, this hotel has spacious (1, 2 and 3 bedroom) suites and numerous facilities for families as well as a walking path around the lake.

How to get to Ipoh

Ipoh is a 2-3 hour drive from Kuala Lumpur along the North-South Highway (AH2). It’s also possible to get to Ipoh from Kuala Lumpur or Penang by bus or train.

My latest trip to Würzburg was part of a southern Germany rail tour during which I visited four of the 17 heritage cities known as Historic Highlights of Germany. Like the other heritage cities, Würzburg is a university city with a rich historical legacy and a vibrant cultural and culinary scene. Another similarity is that Würzburg has a compact old town that’s perfect to explore on foot.

A (brief) history of Würzburg

Würzburg’s history stretches back more than a thousand years, making it one of Bavaria’s oldest cities. It began as a Celtic settlement and was later occupied by the Franks in the 6th century A.D. During the Middle Ages, it grew into an important religious and political centre under the rule of powerful prince-bishops. For centuries, these rulers shaped the city’s cultural and architectural identity, commissioning grand churches, fortifications and palaces.

One of the defining periods in Würzburg’s history came in the 18th century, when the prince-bishops transformed the city into a Baroque masterpiece. The construction of the Würzburg Residence during this time marked the height of the city’s artistic and architectural ambition.

Much of Würzburg was devastated during World War II, particularly during an air raid on 16th March 1945 that destroyed 90% of the historic city centre. Despite this destruction, many of the most significant landmarks were painstakingly reconstructed, preserving Würzburg’s historic character.

Things to see in Würzburg on a walk around the city

There are many things to see in Würzburg, and most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other. I’ve pinned the attractions in the map below and added suggested walking routes. In addition to a sightseeing route in the city centre, I’ve also included (uphill) walks to three attractions: the Marienberg Fortress, the Käppele Sanctuary and the Würzburg Wine Trail. The sequence of the highlights of Würzburg described below mirrors the walking routes in the map.

1. Marktplatz

Würzburg’s Altstadt (Old Town) is compact, walkable, and full of character. Strolling through its cobbled streets reveals charming squares, historic buildings and vibrant markets. The Marktplatz, or Market Square, is a bustling hub where you can sample local foods like bratwurst, browse fresh produce and soak up the city’s atmosphere.

2. St. Mary’s Chapel

St. Mary’s Chapel is a 14th century Catholic chapel in the Gothic style. Severely damaged during WWII, the chapel was lovingly restored in the 1950’s. Two of its most famous artworks, the sculptures of Adam and Eve by Tilman Riemenschneider, are now housed in the Museum für Franken (Marienberg Fortress), with replicas displayed in their original positions. The chapel also serves as the final resting place of the renowned Baroque architect Balthasar Neumann (who famously designed the Würzburg Residence).

3. Falkenhaus

The bright yellow Falkenhaus on Marktplatz is in a gorgeous Rococo style and houses the tourist office.

4. New Minster

The 11th century Neumünster or New Minster was built in the Romanesque style but has a sumptuous, 18th century Baroque façade and dome. The church was the temporary seat of the Bishop of Würzburg after WWII as the Cathedral had suffered massive damage.

Lusam Garden

Behind the New Minster lies the Lusam Garden. This hidden garden features arcade walls of the 12th century cloister. It’s a popular gathering spot for locals, especially in the summer. 

5. St. Kilian Cathedral

The 11th century Cathedral, dedicated to St. Kilian, is a masterpiece of German architecture from the Middle Ages. It’s one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany and a prominent feature of Würzburg’s skyline.

Inside, the cathedral houses important works by sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider, offering insights into the region’s artistic heritage.

6. Juliusspital winery and wine-tasting experiences

One of Germany’s oldest and largest wineries, Juliusspital is in fact a hospital! Proceeds from wine sales help to fund the hospital. Established in 1576, the hospital was expanded in the 18th century. The most notable addition was the impressive northern wing designed by Antonio Petrini, with a massive wine cellar. It still functions as a hospital and retirement home till this day.

I highly recommend touring the winery and its cellar, and tasting a few of its wines. Other historic city wineries that can be visited include Burgersspital and Hofkeller.

Würzburg Wine Pass: a fun wine-hopping experience

A delightful way to discover Würzburg’s wines and its renowned wine spots is to purchase a Würzburg Wine Pass (€15) at the tourist office. The pass contains six vouchers which can be redeemed for a glass of wine at various venues (including at the Old Main Bridge – see below).

7. Stift Haug

Stift Haug was built in the 17th century as the first Baroque church in Franconia. Designed by Antonio Petrini, it’s a stunning building with an impressive dome.

8. Würzburg Residence

The Würzburg Residence is the city’s most famous landmark and one of Europe’s greatest Baroque palaces. Built between 1720 and 1744, it was designed by Balthasar Neumann as the grand home of the prince-bishops, and is renowned for its opulent interiors.

Inside, the highlight is the monumental grand staircase topped by the world’s largest fresco, painted by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. The palace also features the lavish Imperial Hall, the ornate Hofkirche (Palace Church) and beautifully landscaped gardens known as the Hofgarten. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Residence is arguably the top thing to see in Würzburg.

The Residence also has its own wine cellar, the Hofkeller, which can be visited with a guide.

9. Old University

Founded in 1402, the University of Würzburg is one of Germany’s oldest. I suggest popping into the central courtyard to admire the beautiful architecture, and the adjacent Neubaukirche, a splendid Renaissance church designed by Antonio Petrini.

From here, stroll down Neubaustrasse along a row of absolutely gorgeous buildings in the Baroque style.

10. Old Town Hall and Grafeneckart

Würzburg’s historic town hall consists of buildings built during different periods. Its striking Romanesque tower, the 15th century Grafeneckart, stands as a defining landmark in the old town.

11. Old Main Bridge

The Old Main Bridge is one of Würzburg’s most iconic sights. Built in the Baroque style between the 15th and 16th centuries, the stone arch bridge is adorned with twelve statues of saints and historically important figures such as Charlemagne and St. Kilian.

One of the top things to do in Würzburg is to join the locals for a Brückenschoppen, a glass of Franconian wine on the bridge at sunset. It’s a wonderful experience that shouldn’t be missed. 

12. Marienberg Fortress

Perched high above the city on the left bank of the Main River, Marienberg Fortress offers breathtaking panoramic views of Würzburg and its surrounding vineyards. The fortress has been a key stronghold since medieval times and served as the residence of the prince-bishops before the construction of the Residence.

Visitors can explore museums within the fortress, wander through historic courtyards and relax in the beautifully designed Fürstengarten. The climb to the top is well worth the effort for the views alone!

The Museum für Franken at the Marienberg Fortress houses collections related to Franconian history and art, including works by Tilman Riemenschneider (a prolific woodcarver/sculptor in the 15th-16th century) such as the statues of Adam and Eve (copies of which adorn the St. Mary’s Chapel) and the Mourning Madonna. Riemenschneider’s highly expressive wood carvings are simply astonishing!

13. Käppele

The Käppele is an 18th century Baroque/Rococo chapel by Balthasar Neumann, perched on a hill facing the Marienberg Fortress and the Cathedral. A way of the cross with 14 Stations of the Cross marked by small chapels leads up to the Käppele. It’s a bit of a climb to reach, but the chapel’s breathtaking interior and the stunning views make the effort more than worthwhile.

14. Würzburg Wine Trail

The hills surrounding Würzburg are covered in vineyards, producing distinctive wines often bottled in traditional flat Bocksbeutel bottles. Typical Franconian grape varieties include Silvaner, Riesling, Bacchus and Müller-Thurgau.

The slopes directly behind Würzburg Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) are draped with vineyards that produce some of the best Franconian wines. The Stein-Wein-Pfad is a trail that cuts through the vineyards, offering panoramic views of the city.

Würzburg festivals

Another great reason to visit Würzburg is to attend one of its lively festivals and events. Some of the most popular festivals include the Mozart Festival (May/June) and Kiliani Volksfest (July). Another fun festival is the Würzburger Frühjahrsvolksfest (March), a fun fair and beer festival held to celebrate the arrival of spring. It’s a boisterous affair with music, dance, local food and LOTS of beer! If you’re looking for a more local ‘Oktoberfest’ beer festival experience earlier in the year, make a note of this event.

Where to eat in Würzburg

There’s no shortage of top-notch restaurants in Würzburg. For traditional Franconian cuisine in a historic setting, I recommend Würzburger Ratskeller. Located in the cellar of the Ratshaus (Old Town Hall), this restaurant serves hearty local specialties in a vaulted space filled with frescoes.

Just up the road from the Ratshaus, at the Old Main Bridge, is another restaurant I can recommend: Gasthaus Alte Mainmühle. Located in an old mill, this restaurant serves delicious local food with a contemporary twist, and boasts the best views of the Main Bridge and Marienberg Fortress.

Another restaurant I enjoyed is Weinstuben Juliusspital. Located at the Juliusspital winery, it’s a wonderful place to enjoy Juliusspital wines and terrific Franconian food.

Behind the Cathedral is another favourite of mine: Wirtshaus am Dom. This bright, airy restaurant serves absolutely delicious local dishes. Portions are sizeable and the service is fantastic!

Where to stay in Würzburg

I recommend spending 2-3 nights in Würzburg as there’s a lot to see and do. There are many accommodation options in Würzburg. One hotel I absolutely loved was The Barthels Boutique Hotel.

It has a very central location, just behind the New Minster and the Cathedral. The interior is quirky and colourful, and the rooms are spacious and comfortable. There’s also a ‘secret’ rooftop terrace that offers fabulous views of the Würzburg skyline. 

Getting to Würzburg

Roughly situated between Frankfurt and Nuremberg, it’s easy to reach Würzburg by train. Frankfurt has an international airport whilst Nuremberg has a handy, regional airport with links to major European cities. Read about my wonderful road trip along the Main River from Frankfurt to Nuremberg.

Read more about Germany on Velvet Escape

• A northern Germany road trip
• Trier: where ancient Rome meets medieval Germany
• Things to see and do in Heidelberg
• The castles of King Ludwig II
• Things to see in Bremen

Seeing the tulip fields from a plane window

The tulip fields can also be admired from the air when flying into or out of Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. If you’re travelling in mid- to late-April, I always recommend booking a window seat for a chance to catch this spectacular view. Of course, it ultimately comes down to luck. Visibility depends on several factors, including the weather, which runway is in use (Schiphol has five main runways) and the direction of the flight. As a general rule, try to sit on the left side of the plane (row ‘A’) when arriving in Amsterdam, and on the right side when departing. Make sure you don’t book a seat above the wing!

On a recent flight, I felt like I’d struck the jackpot! It was a clear, sunny day and the plane approached the airport from the southwest, landing on the Kaag runway in a northeasterly direction. I sat in row ‘A’ (left side of the plane) and was treated to the most amazing views!

During the approach, we first passed the city of The Hague, the seat of the Dutch government and the capital of the province of South Holland. 

The plane continued in a northeasterly direction and the patchwork of tulip fields soon came into view. The vibrant fields of red, yellow, orange and pink were an impressive sight. We passed the town of Lisse, the heart of the tulip growing industry, and home of the world famous Keukenhof gardens, before landing at Schiphol Airport.

If you’re planning to visit these tulip fields, check out my suggested driving route around the tulip fields southwest of Amsterdam. Or read more about where to find tulip fields in The Netherlands.

Liked this post? See more of my Plane Views from around the world.

Exploring southern Germany by rail

I kicked off this rail trip in Freiburg im Brisgau, a beautiful city at the edges of the Black Forest in southwestern Germany. Freiburg is connected by rail to all corners of Germany, and also has an airport which it shares with Basel (Switzerland) and Mulhouse (France). From Freiburg, I made my way to Tübingen before continuing to Augsburg. My next stop was colourful Regensburg, on the banks of the Danube River. From there, I took the ICE (InterCity Express) train to Würzburg, a stunning city roughly halfway between Nuremberg and Frankfurt.

Southern Germany rail trip: 8-day itinerary

• Day 1-2: Freiburg im Brisgau (2 nights)
• Day 3: Train to Tübingen in the morning (1 night in Tübingen) 
• Day 4: Train to Augsburg in the morning (1 night in Augsburg)
• Day 5: Morning in Augsburg. Train to Regensburg in the afternoon (1 night in Regensburg)
• Day 6: Regensburg in the morning; train to Würzburg in the afternoon (2 nights in Würzburg)
• Day 7-8: Würzburg

This rail journey across southern Germany, created in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany, brought together everything I love about travel: captivating historic cities, verdant landscapes, striking architecture and outstanding food and wines (and beer!).

The cities I visited have so much to offer and are best enjoyed at a slower pace. These five cities, Freiburg, Tübingen, Augsburg, Regensburg and Würzburg, are part of the 17 heritage cities known as Historic Highlights of Germany. The 17 cities are typically university towns with a rich historical legacy and a vibrant cultural scene, paired with a wide array of restaurants, local design boutiques and food stores. These cities have another important point in common: they are all easy to explore on foot. Here are my highlights in each city:

Freiburg im Brisgau

Situated in the southwestern corner of Germany, on the fringes of the Black Forest, Freiburg (map) is a vibrant university city which can trace its roots back to the 12th century. A bustling market town in medieval times, Freiburg has a gorgeous old town that’s dominated by the impressive 13th century Minster. Gurgling water channels (called bächle), fed by the Dreisam river, crisscross the old town – a source of endless fun for kids and a welcome respite during hot summer days. An old saying goes that if a visitor were to accidentally step into a bächle, that person will marry a Freiburger.

Aside from its historical architecture, Freiburg is also known as one of the most eco-conscious cities in the country. I saw many examples of this: to minimise waste, leftover bread and vegetables are deposited by bakers and markets at covered carts for anyone to take home; locals commute by bike and tram; there are water fountains across the town; food ingredients are sourced from the surroundings (the daily farmers’ market in front of the Cathedral is the place to see, taste and buy them), and there’s a clear focus on locally-designed products, making the town a unique shopping experience.

Highlights of Freiburg

It was a treat to explore the old town, with its unique water channels, beautifully-preserved medieval monuments, striking architecture and pavements covered with cobblestone mosaics. The old town is compact, making it easy to explore on foot – just be mindful of the bachle! As you walk around, look down ever so often to see the cobblestone mosaics, a labour of love by the town’s craftsmen.

I also hiked up two nearby hills, Schlossberg and Lorettoberg to enjoy the views, and ventured into the leafy Wiehre district, with its beautiful Art Nouveau architecture.

Freiburg Münster

The 13th century Freiburg Münster (Minster) dominates the skyline, its intricate 116m-high Gothic spire rising above the lively Münsterplatz (Cathedral square) where farmers sell seasonal produce, meats, cheeses and flowers (daily except Sundays). It’s possible to climb the Minster tower for sweeping views of rooftops, vineyards and the distant Black Forest hills.

I enjoyed stopping at some of the stalls at the farmers’ market and asking for a tasting of a few cheeses and hams. The market is also the perfect place to have a Freiburger Lange Rote, a local long, red sausage. 

On the southern side of the square stands the 16th century Historiches Kaufhaus, or Historical Merchants’ Hall, one of the city’s most cherished historical monuments.

Alte Wache

One of my favourite experiences in the old town was the wine-tasting at the Alte Wache. This regional wine store, located opposite the Minster, has a wide range of local wines. In addition to the fabulous wines, two things really blew me away: the amazing cheese biscuits and the insanely delicious Kalte Sofie frozen wine! Trust me, if you’re visiting Freiburg, you have to try them!

Rathausplatz

Another of the city’s most important squares, Rathausplatz is home to the Old and New Town Halls. The 16th century Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus), with its striking red façade, now houses the Tourist Office. It’s not the oldest town gall in the city. The first town hall, Gerichtslaube (1303), can be found in Turmstrasse, just behind the New Town Hall.

Haus zum Walfisch

Around the corner from the Rathausplatz, in the Franziskanerstrasse, you’ll find the beautiful, late-Gothic Haus zum Walfisch. This ornate house is famous as the place where the humanist, Erasmus, stayed in the 16th century.

Medieval city gates

There are two surviving city gates from the 13th century: Schwabentor and Martinstor. Schwabentor is particularly interesting as a painting on its façade depicts the story of a Swabian merchant who tried to buy the city with barrels full of ‘money’, and failed miserably.

Nearby the Schwabentor is one of the town’s prettiest streets: Konviktstrasse (an artisans street in the Middle Ages).

A stone’s throw from the Schwabentor, you’ll also find Gasthaus Zum Roten Bären. In existence since 1120, this is Germany’s oldest inn.

Martinstor is the city’s oldest gate. Built for defensive purposes in the 13th century, the gate was also used as a prison. In the 20th century, its height was raised to accommodate for buses and trams passing beneath it.

In the vicinity of the Martinstor are two delightful foodie destinations: the Markthalle, a food hall with a wide variety of cuisines; and Gmeiner, one of the city’s most famous cake shops, and the perfect place to eat a Black Forest cake.

Augustiner Museum

Fronting the Augustinerplatz, a popular gathering place for the city’s students, the Augustiner Museum is housed in the former monastery of the Augustinian Hermits. The museum has an extensive collection of art and cultural artifacts, ranging from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period.

Schneckenvorstadt

Located roughly between the Schwabentor and Martinstor and following the path of the Gewerbekanal (a fast-flowing channel), Gerberau, Fischerau and Insel form the Schneckenvorstadt (‘Snail Suburb’), or the medieval commercial quarter. This is the best preserved medieval part of the old town where tanners, stone cutters and butchers lived and worked.

These days, it’s a charming area to explore, with its beautifully-preserved medieval houses, gushing water, little bridges, artisanal shops and eateries.

Schlossberg

Just a few steps from the old town, Schlossberg (Castle Hill – though only the ruins of a former castle can be seen today) is a favourite among locals who come here to enjoy nature hikes and the panoramic views of Freiburg. Kanonenplatz is a viewpoint that’s easy to reach – the path uphill starts at the Schwabentor. There’s also a biergarten where you can have some snacks and a beer while enjoying the views.

An alternative method to ascend Schlossberg is with the Schlossbergbahn, a funicular railway that functions like an elevator.

Wiehre district

Across the Dreisam river from the old town lies the Wiehre district. I enjoyed the hike up to Lorettoberg, where I stopped at the Schloss Café (a restaurant with a terrace in a beautiful Art Nouveau castle).

From there, I made my way down the hill to the Wiehre district, with its tree-lined streets and gorgeous Art Nouveau architecture. One place I recommend for a coffee and cake or ice-cream is Förster Max (location). The pastries, cakes and ice-creams are seriously good!

Where to stay in Freiburg

I stayed at the lovely Gasthaus Zum Roten Bären, known as the oldest inn in Germany (since 1120!). The inn has a very central location in the old town and is a ±15 minute walk from the train station. Search for accommodations in Freiburg (Booking.com).

Where to eat in Freiburg

Tübingen

Tübingen, a town on the shores of the Neckar River, feels like a page from a medieval storybook. One of the few completely intact Altstädte (old towns) in Germany – having survived WWII unscathed – it has a remarkably preserved maze of cobbled lanes, half-timbered houses and canal-lined streets. The old town of Tübingen is a joy to explore and to photograph.

Tübingen (map) also has one of the oldest universities in Europe, with students comprising about one-third of the total population. This gives it an undeniably youthful, intellectual buzz. 

Highlights of Tübingen

The best things to do in Tübingen are to simply roam its charming streets and immerse yourself in its medieval atmosphere. Start at the Neckar River, where you can enjoy a river punting cruise in the summer, and make your way up to the old town.

Neckarfront

The Eberhardsbrücke (bridge) crosses the Neckar River and is the main thoroughfare from the train station to the old town. From the bridge, there’s a wonderful view of the gorgeous Neckarfront, a row of colourful houses overlooking the river. 

Holzmarkt

In the heart of the old town, overlooking Holzmarkt, is the 15th century Stiftskirche St. Georg (Collegiate Church of St. George). It’s possible to climb the tower for panoramic views of the town’s red rooftops.

Marktplatz and Rathaus

A short stroll away lies Marktplatz, the town’s bustling market square. Overlooking the square, the town’s Rathaus (old town hall), with its ornate façade, vies for attention with the beautiful Neptune fountain. The square is the venue of the popular farmers’ market every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning (7am – 1pm).

Medieval streets

It’s a delight to explore the old town’s streets and lanes. Some of my favourites include Haaggasse, Ammergasse, Münzgasse, Marktgasse and Kornhausstrasse. Make sure to explore the little lanes and narrow staircases that connect the main streets in this hilly town.

Hohentübingen Castle

High up on the hill, overlooking the old town, sits the 11th century Hohentübingen Castle. Formerly the residence of the Lords of Tübingen, and later the Dukes of Württemberg, the castle now houses the Institute of Classical Archaeology and its Museum of Ancient Cultures. It’s also a great spot for panoramic views of the old town.

Other attractions in Tübingen include the Neckarinsel (island in the Neckar river), with its avenue of plane trees; the Botanical Gardens and the Bebenhausen Monastery (15 minutes outside the town). 

Where to stay in Tübingen

There are numerous accommodation options in and around the old town. I recommend the lovely Hotel Am Schloss, near the castle; or Hotel Krone Tübingen, located between the train station and the old town. Search for accommodations in Tübingen (Booking.com).

Where to eat in Tübingen

Being a university town, there is a broad range of eateries for different budgets. I recommend trying the local Swabian cuisine at Mauganeschtle or Gasthaus Bären.

Augsburg

It was my first time in Augsburg (map) and I was impressed. Divided between an upper and a lower town, the city combines broad avenues, expansive squares, elaborate fountains, and elegant buildings in the upper town, with charming alleys, gushing water channels and tranquil gardens in the lower town.

Founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago, Augsburg flourished during the Renaissance as a centre of banking and trade, thanks largely to the powerful Fugger family. Their legacy lives on in the Fuggerei – the world’s oldest social housing complex still in use – where residents pay a symbolic annual rent.

Highlights of Augsburg

I thoroughly enjoyed wandering the streets of the upper and lower towns, visiting numerous churches and palaces, browsing the Stadtmarkt (city market), and learning about the city’s UNESCO World heritage listed water management infrastructure.

Rathaus

In the upper town, the Rathaus (Town Hall) impresses with its lavish Golden Hall, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture adorned with intricate ceilings and gilded details.

Maximillianstrasse

Strolling along Maximilianstrasse, lined with fountains and grand buildings, offers a glimpse into Augsburg’s opulent past. Stretching from the impressive Basilica of St. Ulrich and Afra to the Rathausplatz, this elegant boulevard is home to various historic monuments such as the Schaezlerpalais, Fuggerhaus, Hercules fountain and colourful Weberhaus. 

Stadtmarkt

The colourful Stadtmarkt (City Market) comprises a mix of open-air stalls and indoor spaces. I enjoyed browsing the stalls and having a coffee at one of the alfresco cafés.

St. Anne’s Church

Originally built as the church of the Carmelite Priory in the 14th century, St. Anne’s Church was later transformed into a Protestant church, with a Catholic chapel dedicated to the Fugger family. The gothic frescoes in the Goldsmiths’ chapel, and the church nave, with its ornate baroque and rococo influences, are absolutely beautiful.

Lechviertel

In the Lechviertel district, in the lower town, small canals weave through charming streets, creating a peaceful atmosphere that feels worlds away from the grandeur of the historic landmarks in the upper town.

This water management system – a network of channels and water towers – were built in the 15th to 17th centuries to supply the town’s tanners and butchers with fresh water, and to power the mills. I was amazed to learn that these water channels nowadays generate hydroelectric power for homes in the city!

Fuggerei

The historic Fuggerei is the world’s oldest social housing complex that’s still in use since the 16th century. Residents pay a symbolic amount (about €1 per year!) in exchange for saying their prayers three times a day.

Where to stay in Augsburg

The grandest hotel in Ausgburg is undoubtedly Hotel Maximilian’s, an iconic institution in the city centre. Another hotel I can recommend is City Hotel Ost am Kö, situated on the edge of the historic centre and just a 10-minute walk to the train station. Search for accommodations in Augsburg.

Where to eat in Augsburg

I loved the experience of dining in the huge vaulted space of the Ratskeller. Serving typical German fare, the Ratskeller is an institution in the city and is located beneath the Ratshaus. 

Another restaurant I can recommend is the Riegele Wirtshaus. Situated near the train station, this brewery/restaurant serves excellent beer and delicious local cuisine.

Regensburg

The next stop on my southern Germany rail tour was Regensburg (map). This historic city on the banks of the Danube River can trace its history back to Roman times. In the Middle Ages, it grew into a wealthy merchant town. The rich built elaborate houses (or ‘city castles’) with impressive towers, taller even than the Cathedral at the time. During WWII, much of the old town was unscathed and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a lively university city with absolutely charming streets, colourful buildings and a vibrant atmosphere. Read about the best things to do in Regensburg.

Highlights of Regensburg

With one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval centres, the city is a delight to explore on foot. The Stone Bridge stretches across the Danube, while St. Peter’s Cathedral anchors the skyline with its soaring Gothic towers. Wander through narrow lanes, discover hidden courtyards and stop at the historic sausage kitchen by the river. Despite its deep history, Regensburg feels lively and welcoming, with cafés and squares full of energy.

My favourite thing to do was to simply explore the old town’s colourful streets and alleys. There are so many interesting things to discover, like parts of ancient Roman walls, towering medieval castles and different architectural styles. There’s also a countless number of cafés, wine bars, restaurants, boutiques and deli’s.

St. Peter Cathedral

An iconic landmark in the city, the Cathedral was built in the 13th/14th century and is one of the most important Gothic structures in Germany. Its twin towers and spires, and nave are awe-inspiring, as are its incredibly well-preserved stained glass windows, some of which are the originals from the 13th century! The intricate spires were completed in 1869.

Stone Bridge

A masterpiece of medieval architecture, the Stone Bridge was built in the 12th century and remained the city’s only bridge across the Danube River until the 1930’s. Three towers once guarded the bridge but only one remains, the Bridge Tower (Brückturm) on the city side.

The bridge is now only open to pedestrians and cyclists. I recommend walking to the middle of the bridge just before sunset to enjoy the river- and city views.

Goliathhaus

Located up the road from the Bridge Tower, the Goliathhaus is a 13th century patrician house made famous by the painting of David and Goliath (1573) on its façade.

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Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady

One of the oldest and most important Catholic churches in Bavaria, the Basilica was built as part of an abbey in the 11th century. In the 18th century, it received a Baroque/Rococo makeover, which is what visitors see today. Unassuming on the outside, its interior is nothing short of breathtaking.

Porta Praetoria

Regensburg was founded in the 1st century AD as a Roman fortress. Parts of this ancient Roman past can still be seen today, most notably the Porta Praetoria, which used to be one of the fortress gates.

Schloss St. Emmeram, Thurn & Taxis

Since 1812, St. Emmeram Abbey in Regensburg has belonged to the Thurn and Taxis family, who transformed it into one of Europe’s largest private palaces. Originally a monastery, it now showcases centuries of history, from medieval cloisters to Rococo splendour and remarkable treasures reflecting noble life and craftsmanship.

Re-light

My visit coincided with the international light art festival, Re-light. Held every two years in March, the festival features artistic light installations at numerous locations across the old town.

Where to stay in Regensburg

I recommend Hotel Das Regensburg, a delightful hotel in the historic centre yet just a 7-minute walk from the train station. There’s also a parking garage next door to the hotel.

The hotel has spacious rooms with very comfortable beds, a lovely courtyard and a cheery breakfast room. I especially love how the hotel pays hommage to Barbara Blomberg, a Regenburger in the 16th century who rose to prominence from a simple background.  

Search for accommodations in Regensburg (Booking.com).

Where to eat in Regensburg

Being a lively student city, there is no shortage of eateries and cafés in Regensburg. One place that shouldn’t be missed is Wurstkuchel. This historic kitchen has been serving grilled sausages since the Middle Ages. Order the signature bratwurst and wash it down with a local beer.

Another restaurant I enjoyed was Gaststätte Gravenreuther. The restaurant serves traditional Bavarian dishes in a cozy atmosphere.

Würzburg

The final stop of my southern Germany rail tour was Würzburg (map), where Baroque splendour meets Franconian joie de vivre. A city of towering spires and domes, Würzburg effortlessly combines a rich history and grand historic monuments with a youthful vibe. It’s a real joy to wander around its streets and admire its beautiful architecture, and soak up the laid-back atmosphere. Situated on the banks of the Main River and surrounded by vineyard-clad hills, Würzburg also enjoys a gorgeous location and a wonderful wine culture.

Highlights of Würzburg

Würzburg is one of those cities best savoured slowly. As I wandered through its streets, I found myself uncovering a wealth of beautiful and intriguing spots. What struck me first was the sheer number of churches, each more grand and imposing than the last. Had someone asked me to point out the cathedral, I would almost certainly have chosen the wrong one.

The city was decimated during WWII but its historic buildings were painstakingly rebuilt. During my few days there, I got to see many of these restored monuments, immerse myself in the wonderful ambiance, visit the city’s gargantuan wine cellars, admire the magnificent Residenz palace and revel in the fun of the Spring Bierfest.

Marienberg fortress

Perched on a hill across the Main River from the city centre, the Marienberg fortress served as the residence of the local prince-bishops for almost five centuries. These days, it’s a museum with a fascinating collection of historic and religious artifacts, and its terrace offers panoramic views of the city.

Old Main Bridge

The Old Main Bridge or Alte Mainbrücke crosses the Main River and was built in the 15th century to replace a 12th century Romanesque bridge. Built in the Baroque style, the stone arch bridge is adorned with twelve statues of saints and historically important figures such as Charlemagne.

One of the top things to do in Würzburg is to join the locals for a Brückenschoppen, a glass of wine on the bridge at sunset. It’s a wonderful experience that shouldn’t be missed. 

Falkenhaus and St. Mary’s Chapel

Located at Marktplatz (Market Square), this bright yellow building in Rococo style is absolutely gorgeous. Severely damaged during WWII, the Falkenhaus now houses the tourist office. A stone’s throw from the Falkanhaus, St. Mary’s Chapel is a 14th century Catholic chapel in the Gothic style. Also damaged during WWII, the chapel was lovingly restored in the 1950’s.

Residenz palace

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the 18th century Würzburg Residenz is a grand palace that’s famous for its opulent Baroque/Rococo architecture and frescoes. Modelled after palaces in Versailles and Schönbrunn, the Residenz is a true masterpiece.

The highlights include the grand staircase, White Hall, Court Chapel and the breathtaking Imperial Hall. I also enjoyed walking around the beautiful Court Gardens.

St. Kilian’s Cathedral and New Minster

Adjacent to each other, the Cathedral and New Munster are two of the most impressive religious buildings in Würzburg. The 11th century Romanesque Cathedral, dedicated to St. Kilian, is a masterpiece of German architecture from the Middle Ages.

The New Munster, also from the 11th century, was built in the Romanesque style but has a sumptuous, 18th century Baroque façade and dome. The church was the temporary seat of the Bishop of Würzburg after WWII as the Cathedral had suffered massive damage.

City wine cellars

Würzburg has a centuries-old wine culture that’s best experienced in one of its wine cellars. These massive wine cellars are quite literally underground labyrinths that stretch as far as the eye can see. The most famous cellars are the 18th century Hofkeller under the Residenz palace, the 14th century Bürgerspital and the 16th century Juliusspital.

One of the oldest wineries in Germany, Bürgerspital has a fascinating history in the sense that it’s a hospital with a winery – proceeds from wine sales help to fund the hospital. These days, it’s one of the biggest wineries in Germany and funds numerous retirement homes.

Another winery in the city with a similar set-up is Juliusspital, which is also one of Germany’s oldest and largest wineries, and still functions as a hospital and retirement home. A tour of (one of) these wine cellars combined with a wine-tasting shouldn’t be missed!

Spring Beerfest

During my last evening in Würzburg, I was invited to join the spring beerfest at the Würzburger Frühjahrsvolksfest – a fun fair and beer festival held to celebrate the arrival of spring. It’s a boisterous affair with music, dance, local food and LOTS of beer! If you’re looking for a more local ‘Oktoberfest’ beer festival experience earlier in the year, make a note of this event.

Read more about things to see and do in Würzburg.

Where to stay in Würzburg

I had an enjoyable stay at the colourful Barthels Boutique Hotel. Very centrally located, the hotel has comfortable rooms, a cool bar/lounge and a rooftop terrace with wonderful views!

Search for accommodations in Würzburg (Booking.com).

Where to eat in Würzburg

One restaurant that shouldn’t be missed is the Alte MainMühle, located next to the Old Main Bridge. The food and the wines are simply top-notch!

I can also recommend the Ratskeller for a more traditional Franconian meal in an impressive vaulted space.

This was a rail journey full of wonders through the historic highlights of southern Germany, made even more special by the chance to visit various spring events! It served as yet another reminder of the incredible array of history and beauty in this part of Germany.

There are many great reasons to visit Germany and one point that stands out is its vast rail network. For this trip, I combined tickets with reserved seats on the ICE (InterCity Express high-speed trains) with the Deutschland Ticket, a monthly subscription ticket (€63/month) which covers unlimited travel on regional rail lines and local public transport.

Read about my other rail and road trips in Germany:

• Historic cities and Christmas markets in western Germany
• Rivers, wines and history in western Germany
• A rail trip across northern Germany
• A northern Germany road trip
• Road trip along the Main River

The best places to visit on a North Holland road trip

I’ve pinned the places mentioned in this article on the map above. I’ve also included a North Holland road trip route which can be covered in a few days. However, I recommend spending more time to enjoy the historic and natural beauty of North Holland. Scroll down to see my suggested 8-day North Holland road trip itinerary.

The sequence of the list below follows the route, that starts in Haarlem (20+ minutes west of Amsterdam) and ends in Monnickendam/Marken (30 minutes north of Amsterdam). If you’re hiring a car, I suggest collecting/returning it in Amsterdam or at Schiphol Airport.

Haarlem

Just west of Amsterdam, Haarlem, the capital of North Holland, is a charming historic city known for its cobbled streets and elegant architecture. Once a major trading centre during the Dutch Golden Age, it remains rich in cultural heritage. The Grote Markt square is dominated by the impressive St. Bavo Church. Nearby are world-class museums such as Teylers Museum and Frans Hals Museum. I also recommend visiting the iconic De Adriaan windmill.

You can enjoy a canal cruise, lively cafés, craft beer tasting in a church, boutique shopping and a relaxed atmosphere that feels more intimate than Amsterdam while still offering vibrant culture and history. Read more about things to do and see in Haarlem.

I recommend spending 1-2 nights in Haarlem as there’s quite a lot to see and do in the city and its surroundings. There are various accommodation options, from cosy B&Bs to luxurious hotels. One of my favourites is the lovely MAF Haarlem Boutique Hotel in the old town. This small hotel, located in a 16th century building, features spacious rooms and a beautiful restaurant/bar.

Zandvoort

Zandvoort is one of the Netherlands’ most popular seaside resorts, located just a short train ride from Amsterdam. Known historically as a fishing village, it developed into a beach destination in the 19th century. Wide sandy beaches stretch along the North Sea, perfect for sunbathing, surfing and long walks, especially during sunset. Motorsport fans also visit the nearby Circuit Zandvoort, home of the Dutch Grand Prix. Surrounded by dunes and nature reserves, the town offers both lively beach clubs and peaceful coastal landscapes.

Zaandam

Zaandam, located along the River Zaan just north of Amsterdam, played a key role in the Netherlands’ early industrial development. In the 17th and 18th centuries the region was filled with hundreds of windmills powering industries such as timber processing, oil production, and paper making. Today the city blends this industrial heritage with modern architecture, most famously the colourful Inntel Hotel inspired by traditional Zaan houses. Enjoy riverside walks, the nearby windmills at Zaanse Schans, and the lively shopping and cultural district.

A major historic attraction in Zaandam is the Tsaar Peterhuisje Museum. One of the oldest wooden houses in The Netherlands, it was built in 1632 as a lodge for Czar Peter The Great of Russia who lived in Zaandam for a while to learn shipbuilding.

Zaanse Schans

Zaanse Schans is one of the Netherlands’ most famous open-air museums, offering a glimpse of 18th- and 19th-century Dutch life. Historic windmills line the banks of the River Zaan, once powering industries like sawmills, oil mills and spice grinding. Traditional green wooden houses, craft workshops and museums recreate the atmosphere of an old Dutch village.

Visitors can watch clog-making demonstrations, taste local cheese, and climb working windmills for sweeping views of the landscape. Read more about things to see and do in Zaanse Schans. Purchase a Zaanse Schans ticket for entry to the attractions, museums and windmills.

Krommenie

The village of Krommenie, located in the Zaan region, has a long history tied to maritime trade and local industries such as sailcloth production. Its streets feature traditional wooden houses typical of the area, reflecting centuries of craftsmanship. Though quieter than nearby Zaanse Schans, the village offers an authentic glimpse of everyday life in historic North Holland. 

I recommend strolling along Zuiderhoofdstraat and Noorderhoofdstraat to admire the gorgeous Zaanse houses, many of which are national monuments. Drop by in one of the cafés or restaurants such as Grand Café Atlantic for a refreshment or meal.

Wormer- and Jisperveld

The Wormer- and Jisperveld is one of the Netherlands’ largest peat meadow wetlands and a paradise for birdwatchers. Located north of the Zaan region, the area consists of narrow waterways, reed beds, and grassy islands formed through centuries of peat extraction. The quiet landscape is best explored by boat, kayak or small electric excursion vessels. Numerous rare bird species nest here, making it an important nature reserve and a peaceful escape for anyone seeking wildlife and traditional Dutch wetland scenery.

Alkmaar

The historic city of Alkmaar is famous worldwide for its traditional cheese market, a centuries-old trading ritual held on Waagplein square. Dating back to medieval times, the town prospered through trade and agriculture. Today, it’s a treat to wander along its picturesque canals, visit the Dutch Cheese Museum and admire historic buildings like the Waag weighing house. Consider joining a walking tour or a cheese canal cruise to learn about Alkmaar’s rich history.

With its colourful markets, boutiques and welcoming terraces, Alkmaar offers a classic Dutch city experience without the crowds of larger destinations. Read more about things to see in Alkmaar.

Egmond aan Zee

Once a traditional fishing village, Egmond aan Zee is now a beloved coastal retreat along the North Sea. Its iconic lighthouse, J.C.J. van Speijk, has watched over the shoreline since the 19th century. The village is surrounded by dunes and nature reserves that are perfect for hiking and cycling.

Bergen (aan Zee)

Bergen aan Zee lies along a beautiful stretch of North Sea coastline and is known for its wide beaches and peaceful dunes.

The nearby village of Bergen has long attracted artists, forming a famous art colony in the early 20th century. Some of the work of this “Bergen School” can be seen at the Kranenburgh Museum. The nearby Park Meerwijk neighbourhood, constructed in 1918, consists of many villas in the Amsterdam School style, an early-20th century Expressionist movement. 

Enjoy scenic bike rides through the forests and dunes, visits to WWII bunkers, relaxing beach days and cultural stops in galleries and museums nearby. The area combines natural beauty with a creative heritage that still shapes its atmosphere. Should you decide to overnight in Bergen, I recommend Villa Kranenbergh and Bergen1928, two properties which provide luxurious rooms, free parking and a host of other facilities.

Schoorl

The village of Schoorl sits beside the highest and widest dunes in The Netherlands, forming part of the beautiful Schoorlse Duinen nature reserve. These towering sand dunes, forests, and heathlands offer excellent hiking and cycling trails. The village itself has a relaxed atmosphere with cafés and a famous climbing dune (Het Klimduin) in its centre. Visitors come for outdoor adventures and quiet nature experiences, making Schoorl one of the best destinations in North Holland for scenic landscapes.

At the coast, northwest of Schoorl, you’ll find the impressive Hondsbossche seawall, which protects the low-lying land from the sea.

Callantsoog

The seaside village of Callantsoog is one of the oldest coastal settlements in North Holland and has long been associated with fishing and maritime life. Today it is known for its wide sandy beaches and peaceful dunes, which form part of a protected nature reserve.

In spring, colourful tulip fields extend inland from the coast, adding to its scenic charm. Read more about where to see the tulip fields of North Holland.

I recommend visiting Callanstoog for tranquil beach walks, cycling through the dunes and bird-watching at the nearby nature reserves such as Zwanenwater.

Den Helder

Located at the northern tip of the province, Den Helder has long been an important naval port for the Netherlands. The city hosts the Royal Netherlands Navy base and several maritime museums. Nearby stands the striking Lange Jaap lighthouse, one of the tallest cast-iron lighthouses in Europe. Den Helder is also the departure point for ferries to Texel, making it a gateway to the Wadden Islands and a fascinating maritime destination. If you’re driving, you can take your car with you on the ferry. Visit this website to check the ferry times and rates.

Texel

Texel is the largest of the Dutch Wadden Islands and lies just off the northern coast of North Holland. Known for its wide beaches, rolling dunes and traditional sheep farms, the island offers a unique mix of nature and culture.

Much of Texel is protected within the Duinen van Texel National Park, where visitors can hike, cycle, and watch seals and migratory birds. Historic villages like Den Hoorn, fresh seafood, and local specialties like Texel lamb make the island a memorable destination for nature lovers and explorers. A fun thing to do is to explore the island on an electric fatbike.

Spoil yourself with a luxurious stay and a top-notch gastronomic meal at Bij Jef Restaurant & Hotel in Den Hoorn. It truly is a beautiful hotel!

Afsluitdijk and Den Oever

The Afsluitdijk is one of The Netherlands’ greatest engineering achievements – a 32km dam completed in 1932 that transformed the dangerous Zuiderzee into the calm IJsselmeer lake. If you do not wish to cross the Afsluitdijk to the province of Friesland, you can turn around at Breezanddijk, approximately halfway on the dam, and return to North Holland. Check out my Friesland road trip route for more info.

On the North Holland side of the dike lies Den Oever, a traditional fishing village known for its harbour and fresh seafood – don’t miss the delicious kibbeling and fish sandwiches at restaurants such as Viscentre ‘t Wad. 

Kolhorn

The picturesque village of Kolhorn was once a coastal fishing village in the former Zuiderzee before land reclamation projects turned the surrounding waters into polders. The village now lies 20km inland. Its maritime past is still visible in the small harbour, narrow canals, and rows of historic houses lining the waterfront. Today Kolhorn is a quiet and charming destination in the West Friesland region, known for its peaceful atmosphere and traditional Dutch scenery. Restaurant ‘t Anker is a great place for a meal in the village.

Medemblik

The historic town of Medemblik is one of the oldest cities in West Friesland and lies along the IJsselmeer. Its medieval Radboud Castle, built in the 13th century, once helped control trade routes across the region. Today the town is known for its charming harbour, sailing culture and historic steam tram that connects to Hoorn. Enjoy the waterside cafés, maritime history and scenic views across the lake.

Medemblik lies at the edge of another tulip-growing area of North Holland. Just outside the town, the area comes alive with colour as endless fields of tulips burst into bloom. During the tulip months of April and May, a special Tulpentram (Tulip Train) plies the route between Hoorn and Medemblik, offering passengers gorgeous views of the tulip fields.

The stretch of the A7 highway in this area is also called the Tulip Highway due to the endless tulip fields on either side of the highway.

Enkhuizen

During the Dutch Golden Age, Enkhuizen was one of the wealthiest port cities in the Netherlands. Its strategic position on the Zuiderzee made it a centre of maritime trade. Today the city preserves its rich past through monuments, canals and the famous Zuiderzee Museum, which recreates life in historic fishing villages. Enkhuizen is also one of the stops on my Markermeer road trip from Amsterdam.

You can stroll along the harbour, explore old warehouses and learn about maritime heritage (there’s also a delightful Ship-in-a-Bottle Museum!) while enjoying the town’s beautifully preserved atmosphere.

Hoorn

The port city of Hoorn flourished during the 17th century as an important base of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). Wealth from global trade funded the construction of elegant merchant houses and historic warehouses that still line the harbour today. Landmarks such as the Hoofdtoren tower and the Westfries Museum (closed for renovations until 2027) recall the city’s maritime past.

I suggest wandering Hoorn’s charming old streets and canals, sailing on the IJsselmeer and exploring museums dedicated to the age of exploration. Hoorn also has numerous top-notch hotels and restaurants, making it ideal as a base from which to explore the surrounding area. Hotels I can recommend include Ysbrantsz Boutique Hotel (which also has an excellent restaurant) and Heavens Hotel (located inside a big church).

Hoorn is one of the places I recommend as a day trip from Amsterdam.

Beemster

The Beemster polder is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a masterpiece of Dutch water engineering. Drained in the early 17th century using windmills, the land was carefully planned with geometric fields and straight canals.

The central village of Middenbeemster reflects this orderly design with historic farmhouses and quiet streets. Visitors come to cycle through its peaceful countryside, admire classic Dutch polder landscapes, and learn how innovative water management shaped the Netherlands.

Edam

The small town of Edam is famous worldwide for its round cheese, which has been traded here since the Middle Ages. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Edam was a prosperous port connected to the Zuiderzee. Today its quiet canals, leaning houses and historic bridges create a picturesque setting.

Visit the traditional cheese market, explore historic streets and experience a peaceful town that feels frozen in time. 

Volendam

The fishing village of Volendam is one of the most recognisable destinations in The Netherlands. Known for its colourful harbour, traditional costumes and lively waterfront, it has long attracted visitors and artists. Historically a fishing community connected to nearby Edam, the village retains a strong maritime culture.

Today tourists stroll along the harbour promenade, sample smoked eel and fresh fish, and enjoy boat trips to Marken (see below).

Monnickendam

The historic harbour town of Monnickendam dates back to the Middle Ages and once thrived on fishing and trade across the Zuiderzee. Its well-preserved centre features brick merchant houses, narrow canals and old warehouses around the harbour.

Despite being close to Amsterdam, the town remains quiet and authentic. Visitors enjoy strolling through the quaint streets and experiencing a traditional Dutch town without large tourist crowds.

Marken

Once an island in the Zuiderzee, Marken is now connected to the mainland by a causeway but still retains its unique character. The village is known for its brightly painted wooden houses built on stilts to protect against flooding.

Its fishing heritage and traditional costumes became famous throughout The Netherlands. It’s a treat to explore its narrow streets and the small harbour, and walk/cycle to the picturesque Paard van Marken lighthouse for sweeping views of the Markermeer lake.

From Monnickendam, it’s a 20+ minute drive into the centre of Amsterdam via the N247 road. If you’re staying on, check out my top things to do in Amsterdam. 

8-day North Holland road trip itinerary

• Day 1 – 2: Haarlem (2 nights)
• Day 3: Zaandam – Zaanse Schans – Krommenie – Alkmaar (overnight in Alkmaar)
• Day 4: Morning in Alkmaar. Afternoon: Bergen – Bergen Aan Zee – Schoorl – Callantsoog (overnight in the vicinity)
• Day 5: Den Helder – Texel (2 nights in Texel)
• Day 6: Texel
• Day 7: Afsluitdijk – Kolhorn – Enkhuizen – Hoorn (overnight in Hoorn)
• Day 8: Beemster – Volendam – Monnickendam – Marken

Parking

I recommend choosing accommodations that provide on-site parking. This can be harder to find in larger towns and cities, so if parking isn’t clearly listed, it’s worth contacting the hotel in advance to ask about their options. If you plan to park on the street, be sure to check whether it is paid parking. In those areas, you will usually find a parking meter or payment machine nearby, and most accept debit or credit cards (Mastercard/Visa). Below are my suggestions for parking garages in the larger towns:

• Haarlem: centrally located 24h parking garages include De Appelaar, ParkBee Jansstraat and Parking Garage Raaks
• Zaandam: Q-Park Hermitage
• Alkmaar: Schelphoek Garage
• Enkhuizen: free parking at the train station
• Hoorn: ‘t Jeudje Parking Garage
• Edam: free parking up to 4 hours at Baanstraat (parking lot)
• Volendam: Parking Center Volendam and Havenhof Parking Garage
• Monnickendam: free parking at ‘t Bolwerk (parking lot opposite the Grote Kerk church).

One thing I always do during a road trip is set the navigation to the chosen parking lot/garage of the next place I’m visiting, especially if it’s a town/city.

A brief history of Puerto de Mogán

The origins of Puerto de Mogán go back centuries. The surrounding region of Mogán was inhabited long before European settlement by the indigenous Guanche peoples, whose legacy can still be traced in archaeological sites nearby. Initially, the area, called Playa de Mogán, was nothing more than a stony beach which made for a modest anchorage for local fishermen and small coastal boats. It wasn’t until the late 20th century, that the marina was built and a sandy beach was created with sand from the Sahara. Puerto de Mogán, as it was soon called, began to evolve into the picturesque village known today.

Local urban development embraced the village’s traditional architecture and natural beauty. Low-rise houses in the traditional style were built, dissected by several canals. Today, Puerto de Mogán remains a working fishing port while also flourishing as a tranquil resort town with an elegant marina, a wide array of cafés and restaurants, beaches and lively markets.

Things to do in Puerto de Mogan

I hopped off the bus at the Lomo Quiebre bus terminal. From there, it was a short walk into the heart of the village and its beach. The beach promenade, lined by many cafés and restaurants was absolutely buzzing. The sun shone brightly and felt delightfully warm on my skin. I found a bench and simply enjoyed the warmth and the lovely view of the beach and ocean. 

During my stay there, I discovered numerous things to do in Puerto de Mogán. Here are my recommendations:

1. Hike up to the Mirador

The old part of the village consists of whitewashed houses built step-like on the mountain slopes. Above it is a mirador (viewpoint) that offers gorgeous views of the village, mountains and ocean. 

Getting there makes for a good workout as there are about 250 steps to negotiate. There are clear signs that guide visitors through the village – please be respectful as it is a residential area – to the mirador. It’s a bit steep in some places but the view from the top is absolutely worth the effort. I recommend stopping ever so often to enjoy the views, houses, artwork and colourful gardens.

2. Enjoy the beach

Playa de Mogán is a wide arc of sand that fronts the village. This sheltered sandy beach is perfect for sunbathing, swimming or enjoying a relaxed seaside lunch. The calm waters and available amenities make it a great stop for families as well. 

3. Wander around the marina and ‘Little Venice’

The ‘newer’ part of the village, on the fringes of the marina, is absolutely delightful. It’s a very photogenic area, filled with whitewashed low-rise houses, colourful bougainvillea, little canals and bridges.

The marina itself is packed with boats and yachts. I enjoyed sitting on the edge to watch the schools of fish darting around in the crystal-clear water.

I also recommend walking to the ferry terminal at the eastern corner of the marina to enjoy the coastal view and see the red crabs on the rocks.

4. Relax at a café terrace

There are many cafés and restaurants along the beach promenade and the marina, each offering a shady terrace with beautiful views. Grab a table, order a cold drink and enjoy the view!

5. Go on a boat trip

From the marina, numerous companies offer boat trips and submarine excursions to see the stunning coast and marine life, such as dolphins and whales. 

6. Savour the local cuisine

One thing that surprised me about Puerto de Mogán was its wide array of top-notch restaurants. Being a fishing port, expect lots of fresh seafood! Some of the town’s best restaurants can be found around the marina and along the beach promenade. There’s even a 1-star Michelin restaurant: Los Guayres, located inside the Cordial Mogán Playa hotel. Some of the restaurants which were recommended to me include Capitan Hook, Que Tal and I Love Mogán. I had a delicious tapas lunch at Casito Mediterraneo, paired with gorgeous views of the marina.

7. Browse around the Friday market

Every Friday, a street market is held where you’ll find Canarian artisanal and food products, fashion accessories and souvenirs. I missed it but a friendly local told me that it’s a lively and colourful market that’s absolutely worth visiting.

Puerto de Mogán turned out to be a surprisingly delightful and picturesque day trip. If you’re visiting Gran Canaria and looking to see more of the island, consider Puerto de Mogán. Other Gran Canaria day trips I can recommend include the central mountains and Las Palmas.

How to get to Puerto de Mogán

From the Maspalomas area, hop onto bus no. 32. It’s a roughly 40-minute ride and costs about EUR 5. If you’re driving, there are numerous parking lots and covered garages at the edge of the village.

Where to stay in Puerto de Mogán

There are various accommodation types in Puerto de Mogán, from luxury hotels to apartment rentals. Perhaps the most famous hotel is the Hotel LIVVO Puerto de Mogán (Booking.com). Located at the marina, it offers fabulous marina and sea views.

I was a different traveller in my twenties: driven by my list of must-do’s and sees, I rushed from one place to the next, cramming in as many top sights as I could. One day, during a conversation with friends, it occurred to me that my first visit to Paris was little more than a vague memory of visiting well-known landmarks. One moment stood out though: I vividly remember sitting on a bench in a park with a jambon beurre baguette. Something about the late-afternoon light, the simple yet heavenly butter and ham sandwich, the animated chatter around me, and the elderly gentlemen playing pétanque nearby made the buzz of hurried sightseeing fade away, and I felt something more meaningful during that brief moment: presence.

The essence of slow travel

Over time, I realised that for travel to be an enriching experience, I had to slow down, linger, savour and absorb. Whereas my travel days in the past read like a bullet point presentation, nowadays, I plan a lot less and often let each day slowly unfurl. This approach has allowed me to notice subtleties: palm fronds caressed by a breeze, the cadence of everyday greetings or the scent of spices wafting from a market stall. These are the notes that linger long after I’ve returned home. And that is the essence of slow travel: it’s not about doing less. Quite the opposite. It’s about feeling more.

In an era of bucket lists, whirlwind itineraries, and social media check-ins, travel has become something to conquer rather than experience. We measure success in the number of countries visited, landmarks photographed, and Insta-driven experiences we can boast about. But somewhere between posing for the ‘gram’ at a famous spot and rushed museum tours, many travellers discover an uncomfortable truth: moving fast and ticking off a list often means feeling very little at all. That’s where slow travel offers a different, richer path.

Slow travel is not about laziness or doing less. It is about doing fewer things more deeply. It is about trading quantity for quality, speed for presence, and checklists for connection. Instead of racing through three cities in five days, you stay in one place long enough for it to begin feeling familiar. The streets stop being a maze and start becoming a neighbourhood. The shopkeeper recognises you. The market vendor remembers your preferences. And gradually, you shift from being a spectator to being a participant.

Depth over distance

When you travel slowly, you give yourself the gift of context. A rushed visit to Rome might include the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums, and a quick photo at the Trevi Fountain. You leave with beautiful pictures but little understanding of daily Roman life.

Stay two weeks instead of two days, however, and something changes. You begin to notice the rhythm of the city: the quiet pause in the afternoon, the animated evening passeggiata, the way locals greet each other in the same café every morning. You might shop at a local market, attempt conversations in Italian, and learn a thing or two about the local cuisine. The city becomes layered rather than flat.

Depth fosters empathy. When you understand how people live – not just where they live – you build a connection that goes beyond tourism. Slow travel invites curiosity rather than consumption.

The unexpected

The beauty of slow travel is that it embraces the unplanned. When your schedule isn’t overstuffed, you have room to wander into a quiet alleyway, to follow a delicious scent down a side street, to accept an invitation for a simple dinner offered by someone you’ve just met. These unplanned moments are the ones that become stories you tell for years, not the carefully curated snapshots meant for social feeds.

Time creates belonging

Belonging cannot be rushed. It emerges from repetition. The second visit to the same café feels different from the first. By the third time, you’ve exchanged a few words in the local language. Something subtle – trust, perhaps – begins to form between you and the place you’re exploring.

And through this trust, culture ceases to be something you observe from the outside and becomes something you participate in. You start picking up cultural nuances: what certain gestures mean, how loudly people speak, when humour is appropriate – subtleties that reveal themselves gradually. 

Memory loves slowness

The one thing that I started to realise after some years of travel: the more I tried to see, the less I truly remembered. That’s the paradox of fast travel. Experiences blur together and places  start to look the same.

Slow travel is rooted in ritual. And these rituals, I’ve found, are the very essence of memory. A morning walk through a quiet park. An evening aperitif at the same corner table. A daily visit to the local café where they know your order. These repeated acts are what turn fleeting impressions into lasting recollections.

Memories, after all, are emotional tapestries. They are not built through frantic motion, but through moments that resonate: laughter shared at a street stall, the surprise of a spontaneous invitation into a home or the approving looks of the nonnas as you make your first pasta.

Ways to embrace slow travel

Slow travel is less about destination and more about approach. Here are practical ways to embrace it:

1. Stay longer in one place

Choose one city or region and commit to it. Rent an apartment instead of booking multiple hotels. Unpack fully. Shop for groceries. Live there, even briefly.

2. Use ground transportation

Trains, buses and even bicycles reveal landscapes that flights erase. Travelling by rail through the countryside near Vienna or along the coast from Bilbao allows you to watch geography and life shift gradually. The journey becomes part of the story, not just a means to an end.

3. Create routine

It may seem counterintuitive, but routine deepens novelty. Morning walks, a favourite restaurant (and table), a weekly market – these rituals make you feel grounded. And from that grounding, exploration becomes more meaningful.

4. Learn the language (even a little)

A few phrases transform interactions. People respond differently when you try. Language opens doors not only to conversation but to humour, storytelling and cultural insight. 

5. Participate, don’t just observe

Take a cooking class. Volunteer locally. Attend a community event. Join a craft workshop. Engagement replaces passive sightseeing with active belonging. Some of my most cherished travel memories were formed because I participated in an activity (cooking classes are my favourites) and engaged with locals.

6. Leave space in your schedule

Sure, plan a handful of ‘must-visits’ but be mindful that not every hour needs a plan. Some of the best travel moments are unplanned: a festival you stumble upon, a conversation that stretches into dinner, a hidden courtyard discovered by accident.

7. Tune in to your senses

Let your senses lead the way as you explore a new place. Tuning into them intentionally, even for a minute or two, adds depth to each moment and helps fix it more vividly in your memory. Wherever I find myself, whether at a world-famous landmark or seated at a quiet café, I make a conscious effort to notice what I see, hear, smell, taste and touch.

I’ll never forget my visit to Petra. Standing beside the magnificent Treasury, I remember the cool air brushing against my skin, the grainy sand beneath my feet, and the smooth rock face under my fingertips as I traced its surface. In the background, camels grunted and shifted in the heat. By listening to my senses, the moment gained texture and depth, transforming it into something far richer and more enduring.

The emotional reward

Slow travel shifts your mindset. You stop chasing experiences and start receiving them. You notice details: laundry hanging between buildings, children playing soccer in an alley, the scent of bread drifting from a bakery at dawn. These small, ordinary scenes are the heartbeat of a place. You also notice yourself. Without constant movement, there is space for reflection. Travel becomes less about escape and more about perspective. Slowness invites mindfulness.

In a world that glorifies speed, choosing to travel slowly is quietly radical. It resists the pressure to accumulate and instead embraces the art of immersion. It allows places to change you, not just entertain you.

Years later, you may not remember every monument you saw. But you will remember how a place felt. You will remember the faces, the flavours, the rhythms. You will remember the sense of belonging that crept in softly, almost unnoticed, until one day you realised you were no longer just visiting – you were living.

And that is why slow travel is not merely a style of travel. It is a philosophy. One that values presence over pace, connection over consumption and moments over miles.

A day tour to Travnik and Jajce

In Sarajevo, a short stroll from my accommodation in the old town, I met my guide, a friendly and knowledgeable chap from Meet Bosnia Tours, and bundled ourselves into the van along with several other guests. We drove in a northwesterly direction through lush forests and lofty mountains. Bosnia never stops impressing with its natural beauty!

Travnik

Our first stop, after a 1.5 hour drive, was Travnik (map), an atmospheric town that was once the administrative centre of Bosnia under Ottoman rule. 

In the 17th – 19th centuries, Travnik served as the capital of the Ottoman province of Bosnia. The seat of the viziers, Travnik played an important role in shaping much of the region’s administrative and cultural life. Here are the top attractions in Travnik which we visited:

Plava Voda

Our first stop was at the edge of the old town: Plava Voda or Blue Water river. It’s a lovely part of the town, with gentle cascades and riverside cafés. We stopped to have a look at a historic madrassa (Islamic school) as well as an ancient cemetery.

I walked along the cascades and the trout-filled ponds before stopping at one of the riverside cafés for a Bosnian coffee.

Travnik Fortress

Our next stop was the Travnik Fortress, a medieval fort overlooking the town. We had beautiful panoramic views from the fort, and got to learn more about Travnik’s layered history, from its medieval beginnings to later centuries under Ottoman governance.

Travnik Old Town

We then made our way down to the atmospheric old town, where we visited Šarena Džamija (Painted Mosque). The 16th century Painted Mosque dazzled with its vibrantly decorated interior, a striking example of Ottoman architecture in Bosnia. 

We roamed around the old town, with its Ottoman-era čaršija (bazaar), clock towers and historic mosques and churches. Travnik is also famous as the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning author Ivo Andrić – there’s a modest museum that documents his life and works.

We stopped for lunch at Ćevabdžinica Hari, a BBQ restaurant that’s famous for its ćevapi (Bosnian minced meat fingers) and grilled chicken.

After lunch, I made one more stop, a charming café under the Painted Mosque. I ordered a Bosnian coffee and started chatting with the proprietor – I soon learned that he’d lived in Malaysia (where I was born) for several years and still spoke Malay! What a small world!

He watched me as I poured the coffee and smiled, “That’s perfect – just like a local!” Clearly, my coffee-pouring lesson the day before (in Sarajevo) had paid off and I felt very pleased with myself.

Pliva Lakes

Our Central Bosnia day trip continued from Travnik with an hour+ drive northwestwards to Jajce. Before reaching the old town, we visited the serene Pliva Lakes. The twin lakes glistened, in shades of jade and emerald, in the afternoon sun.

We crossed the Bridge of Love and wandered through Mlinčići, a photogenic collection of 16th-century watermills perched above cascading falls.

This cluster of historic mills were once used to grind wheat and have been preserved as cultural monuments. A network of elevated, wooden walkways allows you to stroll around the mills. It’s such a lovely, serene spot surrounded by lush forests.

Jajce

We then proceeded to Jajce (map), a historic city that was the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Bosnia. The town changed hands between Bosnian, Hungarian and Ottoman rulers, reflecting centuries of conflict and cultural exchange.

In the 20th century, it played another key role when it hosted a meeting that laid the foundations for Yugoslavia. Here are some of the places of interest we visited in Jajce:

Jajce Citadel

Our first stop was the Citadel, perched on a hilltop overlooking the old town. This medieval citadel offers sweeping views and insight into Jajce’s past as a fortified seat of power. The old city core, defensive walls, and bastions date back to the 14th century.

Old Town

From the fortress, we then strolled down to the old town through cobbled alleys, passing the Church of St. Mary, where Bosnia’s last king was crowned in the 15th century, and the medieval Bear Tower. We also passed historic catacombs and archaeological remains, including a rare Roman-era Mithras temple.

Pliva Waterfall

Our walk ended at arguably the highlight of the day: the Pliva Waterfalls. This spectacular 18-meter cascade drops into the Vrbas River right in the centre of town. It was a picture-perfect conclusion to my central Bosnia day trip!

If you’re visiting Sarajevo or touring Bosnia, don’t miss Travnik and Jajce. It was an absolutely delightful day trip full of history, nature and culture. 

Read more about Bosnia and Herzegovina:

• My one week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary
• Things to do in Sarajevo
• A day trip to Mostar

Note: my stay in Bosnia and Herzegovina was made possible by Meet Bosnia Tours. As always, all opinions above are mine.

A brief history of Toulouse

Toulouse has a history spanning more than 2,000 years, beginning as a Celtic settlement. It then became the Roman city of Tolosa, an important trading hub between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. After the fall of Rome, it passed through Visigothic and Frankish control. It rose to prominence in the Middle Ages as the capital of the powerful County of Toulouse, known for its culture, learning and use of the Occitan language. Toulouse later flourished during the Renaissance, aided by trade and the establishment of one of Europe’s oldest universities in 1229. The construction of the Canal du Midi in the 17th century strengthened its commercial importance, and in the 20th century Toulouse reinvented itself as a major centre of aviation and aerospace.

Best times to visit Toulouse

I personally recommend spring and early autumn. The weather is pleasant and there are fewer crowds. In addition, the softer light during these seasons makes strolling through its colourful streets a joyful experience. All the photos in this Toulouse guide were taken in late-September.

Things to see in Toulouse

Toulouse is an absolutely delightful city to visit. I recommend spending at least two days there to appreciate its beauty, history and culture. In addition to the attractions in the city, there are also many places of interest in the Occitanie region. Toulouse is also the starting point of my curated South of France road trip route to Marseille.

I’ve pinned the top attractions in Toulouse (city centre) on the map above and included two walking routes which can be done in 2-3 days. Below, you’ll find a list of the highlights of Toulouse as well as other places of interest, the sequence of which roughly follows the walking routes above. Feel free to follow the walking routes but I recommend straying off the route ever so often as there really is a lot to discover in this wonderful city!

Place du Capitole

The heart of the city, the expansive Place du Capitole is a grand square that’s home to the City Hall and the National Opera. It’s a vibrant square lined by numerous cafés, restaurants, hotels and shops. Both the walking routes above start and end at this impressive square.

Around Place du Capitole

The area stretching west and south of Place du Capitole, bounded by the Garonne River and Rue de Metz, is commonly known as Le Vieux quarter, or the Old Town. Characterised by wide avenues (many of them pedestrian-only), vibrant squares and charming, narrow lanes, the district is lined with buildings in warm shades of terracotta and beige, accented by colourful shutters and elegant wrought-iron balconies. This is the main shopping district in the city, with a broad range of outlets, from department stores to independent boutiques.

Behind the Capitole building lies Charles de Gaulle square, a mini park overlooked by the 16th century Donjon (Keep). This lively park is the venue for artistic performances and markets.

From Place du Capitole, streets fan out in different directions. Two streets I particularly love are Rue Saint-Rome, an atmospheric shopping street that stems from the Middle Ages, and Rue du Taur, a colourful street that leads up to Basilique Saint-Sernin.

Victor-Hugo

This busy quarter lies a short walk northeast of Place du Capitole. It’s packed with a plethora of cafés, restaurants, shops and hotels, and attracts crowds all day long. The focal point of this quarter is arguably Marché Victor-Hugo, a historic covered market with a wide range of stalls and eateries.

Victor-Hugo is a popular spot for nightlife. Place du President Thomas Wilson (or simply ‘Wilson’) and the surrounding streets are packed with bars and cafés. Restaurants I can recommend in this quarter include Chez Nòu and Chez Poupette (opposite the market).

Basilique Saint-Sernin

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Basilique Saint-Sernin is one of the largest and most significant Romanesque churches in Europe.

Constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries, it was an important stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The basilica is particularly famed for its Romanesque architecture and stone carvings, such as its gorgeous bell-tower (which reminds me of a Chinese pagoda) and the beautiful, 12th century, Miègeville door. Inside, you’ll find a soaring nave and elegant apse, as well as intricate stone carvings and colourful frescoes.

Around Basilique Saint-Sernin

If you have time, I recommend exploring the area around the basilica. A short stroll away, in Rue Gramat, you’ll find a street full of colourful graffiti. The nearby Musée Saint-Raymond is a fascinating archaeological museum with artifacts through the early Middle Ages, including local Celtic and Roman pieces.

Northeast of here lies the tranquil Les Chalets neighbourhood. You’ll find elegant villas along Rue des Chalet, and Toulousaines (low-rise houses in the local style) in the vicinity of Rue de la Concorde. Drop by at the lovely Café Concorde, one of the oldest cafés in Toulouse, for a refreshment.

Northwest of Saint-Sernin, you’ll find the beautifully landscaped Jardin Japonais (Japanese Gardens).

Couvent des Jacobins

This former (13th century) Dominican convent is a masterpiece of southern Gothic architecture. Look up to see its awe-inspiring rib-vaulted nave that resembles a palm tree. I also suggest visiting the serene cloisters.

Place/Pont Saint-Pierre

A short walk from Couvent des Jacobins, along Rue Pargaminiéres with its gorgeous terracotta façades, you’ll arrive at Place Saint-Pierre, a shady square that’s the venue of a popular book market (Thursdays and Fridays).

The square is also a great spot for views of the Garonne river and the iconic Pont Saint-Pierre (bridge). From here, you can cross Pont Saint-Pierre to reach the Saint-Cyprien quarter, or stroll along the Garonne promenade to Place de la Daurade.

Saint-Cyprien

The Saint-Cyprien quarter, located on the left bank of the Garonne, is easily reached by either Pont Saint-Pierre or Pont Neuf. It’s a cosmopolitan neighbourhood with numerous art museums and a vibrant culinary scene. Places of interest include the Chapelle St. Joseph de la Grave (a famous landmark on the banks of the Garonne), Les Abattoirs (a modern art museum) and Hôtel-Dieu St. Jacques (a former hospital with origins in the 12th century; now a UNESCO World Heritage monument). Nearby lies the Prairie des Filtres park. A popular place for picnics and sunset walks, it’s also the venue for numerous summer festivals.

Further west, Place de l’Estrapade and Place du Ravelin are local favourites for their cafés, bistros and restaurants. If you’re in the area, don’t miss a stroll through the photogenic Rue de l’Ouest, with its colourful houses.

Pont Neuf

Pont Neuf, Toulouse’s most famous bridge, dates back to the 17th century and offers beautiful views over the Garonne. It connects the Saint-Cyprien and La Daurade quarters.

La Daurade

One of the most charming parts of Toulouse, the La Daurade quarter – just north of Pont Neuf – is packed with cafés, restaurants, designer boutiques and vintage shops.

One of my personal highlights in this quarter is the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Daurade. It was established in the 5th century as a pagan temple dedicated to Apollo, then converted into a Benedictine monastery in the 9th century.

The current structure was built in the 19th century, and houses a copy of the original 15th century Black Madonna shrine.

Place de la Daurade and the adjacent streets are a great place to stop for a meal or a drink. There are many options – one restaurant I can recommend is La Santine.

Hôtel d’Assézat

This 16th-century mansion showcases art and decorative treasures from the Renaissance and beyond. Don’t miss its stately courtyard, which is free to enter.

Les Carmes

A vibrant, colourful quarter, Les Carmes is one of my favourites to explore. From the lively Place de la Trinité, make your way down Rue des Filatiers, an absolutely delightful street, to the heart of Les Carmes: its covered market. Visit the market in the mornings to obtain the freshest produce and indulge in freshly-baked pastries.

From here, streets fan out, leading you into quiet lanes and hidden squares. Explore the areas surrounding Place des Carmes and Notre-Dame de la Dalbade church, and you’ll find quaint medieval houses, rustic wine taverns and cosy cafés.

For art lovers, I recommend visiting Musée des Arts Précieux Paul-Dupuy, a fine and decorative arts museum located in a 17th century townhouse.

Further southeast lie the expansive Jardin Royal gardens, which are perfect for a relaxing stroll. 

Saint-Étienne

Saint-Étienne is an elegant quarter with a wonderful mix of chic residences, tranquil squares, and rustic streets which transport you back to the Middle Ages. The focal point of this quarter is undoubtedly the splendid Cathédrale Saint-Étienne.

The seat of the Archbishop of Toulouse, this 13th century church is a unique blend of Southern and Northern Gothic styles. The highlight of this church is arguably its ornate Baroque altar.

I recommend exploring the streets west and south of the Cathedral such as Rue Croix Baragnon (with its classy eateries, boutiques and cafés), Rue Pierre de Fermat down to Place Sainte-Scarbes, and the medieval Rue Merlane. Restaurants I can recommend in this quarter include Gaïa and Hortùs Toulouse, both of which can be found in Rue Croix Baragnon, and Standard., opposite the Cathedral.

Musée des Augustins

Housed in a former Gothic convent dating back to 1309, the Musée des Augustins is one of France’s oldest fine art museums. Its collection spans sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century.

A short walk from Musée des Augustins is another of Toulouse’s popular squares: Place Saint-George. This lively square, packed with cafés and restaurants, is busy day and night due to its cafés, restaurants and playground.

Saint-Aubin

This quarter occupies the area between the city centre and Canal du Midi. Famous for its artisanal market every Sunday morning, when the quarter bursts to life, Saint-Aubin is otherwise a serene area for a stroll. Don’t miss the Saint-Aubin Church, a wondrous mix of Byzantine, Gothic and Romanesque styles. The Sunday market takes place in the streets surrounding the church.

Behind the church, you’ll find the Canal du Midi. A UNESCO World Heritage engineering marvel, this historic canal stretches from Toulouse to the Mediterranean. Its shaded banks are popular amongst cyclists and joggers.

One restaurant I can recommend in this quarter is L’etoile, a cosy bistro that serves terrific French food at reasonable prices.

Airbus factory

For aviation geeks, a visit to the Airbus factory is a must. There, you’ll be able to see the final assembly of aircraft such as the A350 and A321. You’ll also get to see the cool Beluga transport aircraft. Tours only run on Thursdays and Saturdays (outside school and public holidays) and slots run out fast so I suggest booking a few months in advance. Visit Manatour for more info.

Where to stay in Toulouse

There are many accommodation options in Toulouse, from five-star hotels to family-owned B&Bs. Hotels I’ve stayed at and can recommend include Le Grand Balcon (just off Place du Capitole), Hotel des Arts (Saint George) and OVYO Hotel (near Pont Neuf).

How to get to Toulouse

High-speed trains connect Toulouse with major cities in France, whilst Toulouse-Blagnac Airport has daily flights to major European capitals. From the airport, it’s a 20-minute taxi ride to the city centre.

Read more about other destinations in France

• Things to see and do in Bordeaux
• Things to see in Avignon
• A day trip to Nîmes
• Things to do in Montpellier
• The ultimate Réunion Island travel guide

A brief history of Aachen

Aachen’s roots go back to Roman times, when it was known as Aquisgrani and prized for its thermal springs, which can still be seen (and experienced) today. Its greatest historical significance stems from the reign of Charlemagne (late 8th–early 9th century). Charlemagne was historically significant for uniting much of Western and Central Europe in the early Middle Ages, and laying the political and cultural foundations of what later became the Holy Roman Empire and modern Europe. King of the Franks and later Emperor of what became known as the Carolingian Empire, Charlemagne chose Aachen as his primary residence. There he built an imperial palace, a throne room and the world famous Palatine Chapel, the nucleus of today’s Aachen Cathedral. Charlemagne was buried in the cathedral in 814, and his influence made the city a political and spiritual centre of medieval Europe.

For nearly six centuries (from 936 to 1531), German kings and emperors were crowned in Aachen Cathedral, cementing the city’s role at the heart of the Holy Roman Empire. Since those imperial days, Aachen has weathered wars, fires and changing rulers – including French occupation in the late 18th century and heavy fighting in World War II – yet its rich heritage survives in its streets, architecture and museums.

Things to see in Aachen – walking tour

The map below highlights things to see and do in Aachen. I’ve also included a walking route through the historic city centre. This sightseeing walk starts at Elisenbrunnen and ends at the Ponttor, one of the city’s two surviving medieval gates. Scroll down to read more about the attractions along the way, the sequence of which mirrors the walking route. Alternatively, you can opt for a 1.5 hour guided walking tour.

Elisenbrunnen

My self-guided Aachen walking tour starts at Elisenbrunnen. This neoclassical pavilion houses the city’s tourist office and thermal springs. Visitors can taste the mineral waters here and see the sulphuric steam billowing from nearby manholes.

Elisengarten

This small park is popular amongst both locals and visitors. There are two attractions at the park: the ‘Archeological Window’ and the humourous Kreislauf des Geldes (Cycle of Money) fountain. 

Münsterplatz and surrounds

The next stop on this Aachen walking tour is one of the main squares in the historic city centre: Münsterplatz. The site of one of the Christmas markets, Münsterplatz is packed with cafés and is overlooked by the imposing Cathedral.

In the eastern corner of the square, behind the Cathedral, you’ll find Nobis Printen, one of the city’s iconic bakeries. Ask for a tasting of printen, a spiced gingerbread from Aachen, and bring some home with you.

Have a look at the Cathedral from the intersection of Spitzgässchen and Domhof. This is a great spot to see the evolution of the Cathedral, and the various architectural styles, over the centuries.

In Schmiedstrasse, you’ll find the medieval Grashaus, one of the oldest non-religious buildings in Aachen.

Aachen Cathedral

This leads us to the absolute highlight of Aachen: the Cathedral. From Domhof, a square fronting the Cathedral entrance, you’ll see the original Carolingian façade. There are two ways to see the Cathedral: free entrance and a guided tour. I recommend the guided tour – tickets can be purchased at the Dominformation (Cathedral Info Office, Johannes Paul II Strasse 1) – as you get to see more of the Cathedral, including Charlemagne’s throne on the upper floor and the choir hall with the shrine of Charlemagne.

The Cathedral’s origins lie in the 8th century, when Charlemagne commissioned the construction of the Palatine Chapel. This octagonal structure, with its soaring dome and mesmerising arches, is truly breathtaking. Inspired by the 6th-century Basilica di San Vitale in Ravenna, the chapel is richly decorated with marble, frescoes and dazzling mosaics.

Over the centuries, new sections were added to the chapel, including the choir hall, creating the Cathedral we know today. In 1978, Aachen Cathedral became the first site in Germany to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Cathedral Treasury

I also recommend visiting the adjacent Domschatzkammer, or Cathedral Treasury. You’ll find the entrance opposite the Cathedral Info Office. The Treasury displays one of northern Europe’s most impressive collections of medieval religious artifacts.

Katschhof and Charlemagne Centre

A short stroll away lies Katschhof, a large square often referred to as Aachen’s “living room”. It regularly hosts events and concerts and is the site of a large Christmas market during the festive season. The square is framed by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Cathedral and the Rathaus, as well as the Charlemagne Centre, a museum dedicated to Aachen’s history. From the steps of the Rathaus, there’s a stunning view of the Cathedral’s distinctive silhouette.

Puppenbrunnen

From Katschhof, continue through several charming lanes in the direction of Hof (square). At the entrance of the square, stop at the quirky Puppenbrunnen (Puppet Fountain), one of Aachen’s most beloved fountains. The figurines can be twisted and bent to change the look of the fountain.

Hof

One of the smaller squares in Aachen, Hof is home to a reconstruction of a Roman colonnade as well as a row of charming medieval houses. There are numerous cafés here, such as Domkeller, which are well worth a visit for a taste of the local wines and ambiance.

Leading off from Hof are the Rommelsgasse and Körbergasse, two picturesque medieval lanes.

At the end of Körbergasse is one of Aachen’s most famous cafés: Van den Daele. This Belgian café serves a variety of delicious pastries and cakes.

Hühnemarkt

From Hof, walk up Rommelsgasse to Hühnemarkt. At this square, you’ll find a statue of the ‘Chicken Thief’ as well as the Couven Museum, a restored 17th century mansion. This museum showcases period interiors, furniture, and even an old pharmacy – a fascinating look at bourgeois life in historic Aachen.

Granusturm

Across the street, you’ll quickly spot the Granus Tower, one of the oldest surviving structures of Charlemagne’s former imperial palace, and the charming medieval façade of the Postwagen zum Ratskeller restaurant.

Markt and Rathaus

You’ll soon arrive at Markt, the city’s market square. In the middle of the square stands the Karlsbrunnen (Charles’s fountain). The main attraction at this square is the magnificent Rathaus (Old Town Hall). Built on the foundations of Charlemagne’s imperial palace, this 14th century town hall has a striking Gothic exterior. Inside, you’ll find an impressive Coronation Hall, with its frescoes and imperial regalia.

There are numerous cafés and restaurants at Markt which are worth mentioning. These include Markt 43 (contemporary European) and the atmospheric Zum Goldenen Einhorn (German cuisine). 

Ponttor

From Markt, walk along Pontstrasse towards the Ponttor, a 10-minute walk. One of only two medieval gates that can be seen today, Ponttor is a formidable sight.

This concludes my Aachen walking tour. From the Ponttor, I suggest making your way back to Markt or Münsterplatz for a well-deserved refreshment or meal.

This walking route can easily be covered in a day but I recommend staying a night in Aachen to experience the enchanting evening ambiance, have a drink at a local pub and dine at one of its wonderful restaurants. Search for accommodations in Aachen.

Where to eat in Aachen

There are many cafés and restaurants in Aachen to choose from. In addition to Markt 43 and Zum Goldenen Einhorn (Markt), I can also recommend Am Knipp (Bergdriesch, 3). Housed in a 17th century house, you’ll find hearty German cuisine, beers and wines.

Experience Aachen’s thermal springs

One other thing to do in Aachen is to experience one of its thermal springs. The most popular wellness spa is the Carolus Thermen. Located about a 25-minute walk from Münsterplatz (or a 10-15 minute taxi ride), this beautiful thermal spa has numerous pools, saunas and restaurants.

How to get to Aachen

Aachen is located in the far western corner of Germany, near the Dutch and Belgian borders. From Maastricht (The Netherlands), it’s a 45-minute car/bus ride away. It takes about 1.5 hours by train from Brussels. From Cologne, the ICE high-speed train will whisk you there in 35 minutes (or 55 minutes on regional trains). Frankfurt is a 1 hour 45 minute train ride (ICE service) away.

If you’re coming by car, I suggest parking at Parkhaus am Dom (see map above).

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to see in Trier
• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to do in Heidelberg
• Things to do in Koblenz

Note: my visit to Aachen was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

A brief history of Osnabrück

Osnabrück has a history that dates back more than a millennium. St. Peter’s Cathedral, first built around 785 A.D. in the new bishopric under the orders of Charlemagne, stands as a testament to this legacy. The town’s fortunes grew considerably after it joined the Hanseatic League, an influential network of northern European trading towns, in the 12th century.

What truly cemented the town’s place in European history was the negotiation and signing (that took place in Osnabrück and Münster) of the Peace of Westphalia in 1648. This treaty ended the calamitous Thirty Years’ War and brought a period of peace to the Holy Roman Empire. The seat of these negotiations was the Osnabrück Town Hall, today a symbol of peace and reconciliation. For this reason, Osnabrück is called the “City of Peace”.

In modern times, despite suffering wartime destruction during WWII, much of Osnabrück’s historic core was carefully restored. Today, visitors can still see the layers of history during a stroll through the Old Town.

Things to see in Osnabrück on a self-guided walking tour

Osnabrück’s Old Town is compact. Much of the medieval legacy can be found in the triangle formed by the Hegertor, Barenturm and Dom St. Petrus. My self-guided walking tour of Osnabrück, illustrated in the map below, includes the top historic attractions.

The route can quite easily be covered in a day but I recommend spending a night or two in Osnabrück to truly get a sense of the city and its fascinating history. It also gives you the opportunity to stay in the lovely Romantik Hotel Walhalla, a historic hotel located opposite the Old Town Hall. Here are the top attractions:

Marktplatz

The Old Town’s ‘living room’, the Marktplatz (Market Square) should be the start of any exploration of Osnabrück. The square is surrounded by numerous historical buildings, including the Rathaus (Old Town Hall) and the Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church), as well as a row of colourful stepped-gable houses, destroyed during WWII but rebuilt in the original 16th century Flemish style. The square is used for various events, most notably the Christmas market, one of the most beautiful in northern Germany.

Rathaus

The late-Gothic Osnabrück Town Hall is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Completed in 1512, its façade is decorated with statues and its interior houses the famed Friedenssaal (Peace Hall), where envoys signed the Peace of Westphalia in 1648. This late-Gothic building now houses several international institutions dedicated to the study and preservation of peace.

As you enter the building, notice the bronze door handle with the words “Friede 1648” (Peace 1648), a reference to the Peace of Westphalia. On the left of the main hall, you’ll find the Friedensaal. There’s a miniature model of 17th century Osnabrück on the first floor that’s also worth visiting.

Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church)

This Protestant-Lutheran church, completed in the 15th century in the Gothic style, is another Marktplatz landmark. It’s possible to climb the church tower for beautiful views across the Old Town.

Dom St. Petrus (St. Peter’s Cathedral)

A short walk from the Marktplatz leads to the Domhof (Cathedral Square). The first church on this site was built in the 8th century under the orders of Charlemagne, when Osnabrück first became a bishopric. Over the centuries the Cathedral was rebuilt and expanded, with significant work during the 13th century that shaped its current Romanesque-Gothic mixture.

The Cathedral impresses with its Romanesque towers and Gothic influences, a remarkable blend reflecting centuries of changes. The highlights include a vaulted nave, a stunning 13th-century triumphal cross (one of the oldest in Germany) and a 13th century baptismal font.

Medieval streets

The area west of Marktplatz is home to some of the city’s oldest buildings and most charming streets. It really is a treat to explore the streets in this area.

I recommend strolling along streets such as Bierstrasse, Krahnstrasse, Hegerstrasse and Marienstrasse to see beautifully restored half-timbered buildings. You’ll also find numerous wine bars, restaurants, boutiques, specialty shops and art galleries.

Medieval fortifications

Remnants of the city’s medieval walls can still be seen today, especially along the stretch between the Hegertor and the Barenturm.

The most visible structures are the medieval towers, such as Bucksturm (Bock Tower) and Citizenship Obedience Tower. The Bock Tower is especially interesting due to its grim history. Used as a prison in the medieval period, the tower is most famous for its “Johanniskasten”, a large oak box dating back to the 15th century. The robber baron Johann von Hoya was kept imprisoned in this box, that can be found on the second floor, for seven years! The tower later served as a torture chamber during the witch hunts of the 16th century.

Steinwerke (Stoneworks)

During the medieval period up to the Renaissance, many steinwerke or stoneworks were constructed in Osnabrück. These were stone buildings adjacent to the more glamorous half-timbered houses of wealthy families. The stoneworks were used as warehouses but also played an important role during fires or invasions. At one point, there were about 300 stoneworks in Osnabrück. One of the best surviving examples, from the 13th century, can be found in the courtyard of Bierstrasse 7. 

Its bare brick façade reveals the ravages it has endured across the centuries. The different colourations are the consequence of fires, notably the devastating fire bombs during WWII. 

Felix Nussbaum House

From the medieval quarter, walk through the Hegertor (Heger Gate), a monument commemorating the soldiers from Osnabrück who died in the 1815 Battle of Waterloo, and cross the road. Here, you’ll find the Felix Nussbaum House/Museum.

Designed by the renowned American architect Daniel Libeskind (who also redeveloped the World Trade Center site following the devastation of 9/11), the museum was built around the remaining sections of a medieval wall and bridge, and is dedicated to the works of Felix Nussbaum, a Jewish artist born in Osnabrück, who perished in Auschwitz.

Nussbaum’s early paintings depict cheerful scenes of family and friends, but as war approached and persecution intensified, his work took a darker turn. His most famous pieces – such as Self-Portrait with Jewish Identity Card and The Triumph of Death – offer haunting, powerful portrayals of the horrors of the era.

Other places to visit in Osnabrück

Should you have more time, there are other interesting places to visit, such as Schloss Osnabrück. From the medieval quarter, I recommend walking along Domhof and Grossestrasse, pedestrian shopping streets, in a southeasterly direction.

From here, explore the Öwer de Hase area, a commercial area along the Hase River. In this southern part of Osnabrück, there are numerous historical sites that are well worth seeing:

Ledenhof

This striking 15th century palace was once the residence of the wealthy von Leden family. Formerly a large estate, Ledenhof now consists of a 7-storey stone building, a little palace and adjacent tower. 

Schloss Osnabrück (Castle)

The Osnabrück castle, built in the 17th century in the Baroque style, was once the residence of the Osnabrück prince bishops. The castle now houses part of the university. Don’t miss the beautiful gardens in the back, a relaxing spot in the summer.

St. Katharinenkirche (St. Catherine’s Church)

One of the four medieval churches in Osnabrück, the 14th century, late-Gothic St. Catherine’s Church features a 103m tall tower and beautiful stained glass windows.

From here, make your way back to the Marktplatz via the Redlingerstrasse and the Krahnstrasse.

Osnabrück isn’t the biggest, flashiest or the most famous German city, but that’s part of its charm. For travellers interested in history, architecture, a bit of geopolitics and a dose of relaxed everyday German city life, it’s an underrated gem.

Where to eat in Osnabrück

For delicious cakes and coffee/tea, head for Café Sophies, located in a gorgeous half-timbered house in Krahnstrasse.

If you’d like to have authentic German food, I recommend Weinkrüger in Marienstrasse. Olle Use in Hegerstrasse serves food and wines in a more contemporary setting. Another place I can recommend is Rampendahl Brewery, a rustic restaurant/brewery that serves hearty German fare and local beer. The Romantik Hotel Walhalla also has a terrific restaurant that serves German cuisine in a refined ambiance.

Where to stay in Osnabrück

I stayed at the lovely Romantik Hotel Walhalla, located opposite the Old Town Hall. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and there’s a top-notch restaurant and a lively bar. The hotel also has a small parking garage, handy if you’re visiting by car. 

How to get to Osnabrück

Osnabrück is about a 2.5 hour drive from Cologne, or a bit more than 2 hours by train. There are direct rail services from cities such as Amsterdam, Berlin, Cologne and Düsseldorf. If you’re in the area, I recommend combining a visit to Osnabrück with nearby Münster. Further north, you’ll find other cities absolutely worth visiting such as Bremen and Hamburg.

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to see in Trier
• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to see in Potsdam
• Things to do in Heidelberg

Note: my visit to Osnabrück was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

My 6-day ‘History and Christmas Markets’ itinerary

From Amsterdam, I boarded the ICE train in the direction of Berlin and disembarked at Osnabrück. From there, it was a short train ride to Münster, my second stop. The next day, I travelled to Bonn via Cologne. The last city I visited before returning to Amsterdam was Aachen.

• Day 1: Amsterdam to Osnabrück
• Day 2: Osnabrück in the morning; train to Münster in the late-afternoon
• Day 3: Münster in the morning; train to Bonn in the late-afternoon
• Day 4: Bonn in the morning; train to Aachen (via Cologne) in the late-afternoon
• Day 5: Aachen
• Day 6: Train to Amsterdam in the afternoon.

This rail trip through western Germany, a collaboration with Historic Highlights of Germany, was full of the things I enjoy most when I travel: stunning historic cities, lush landscapes, beautiful architecture and amazing food and wines! On my previous trip, I embarked on a rail journey along the Rhine and Moselle rivers, visiting cities such as Koblenz, Heidelberg, Wiesbaden and Trier.

The cities I visited are part of the 17 heritage cities known as Historic Highlights of Germany. The 17 cities are typically university towns with a rich historical legacy, a vibrant cultural scene and a tantalising array of restaurants, local design boutiques and food stores. These cities have another important point in common: they are all easy to explore on foot. Here are my highlights in each city:

Osnabrück

A university city in the German state of Lower Saxony, Osnabrück – also known as the “City of Peace” – turned out to be a lovely surprise. Lively and youthful thanks to its 22,000 students, the city suffered extensive damage during WWII. Traces of the 1944 firebombing can still be seen in the Old Town, yet its most important buildings have been lovingly restored to their original medieval appearance.

Osnabrück’s roots stretch back to the 8th century A.D., when it emerged as a small merchant community. Its fortunes grew considerably after joining the Hanseatic League, an influential network of northern European trading towns, in the 12th century. Centuries later, in 1648, Osnabrück, together with Münster, hosted the negotiations and signing of the Peace of Westphalia, the treaty that brought an end to the Thirty Years’ War and reshaped Europe’s religious and political landscape.

As I wandered through the city, weaving between old and new, I discovered medieval buildings, graceful half-timbered houses, lively squares, and charming streets. The main square, the Marktplatz – framed by colourful gabled houses, the soaring Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church) and the historic Rathaus (where the Peace of Westphalia was signed) – was alive with the bustle of a Christmas market. Drifting among the stalls, I was greeted by the irresistible scents of freshly baked pastries, spiced cookies, and warm glühwein (mulled wine).

Highlights of Osnabrück

Upon my arrival, I checked into the charming Romantik Hotel Walhalla. Located in a 17th century, half-timbered building, across the road from the Rathaus, the hotel was certainly a highlight of this trip! Famous guests who have stayed there include the Dalai Lama!

The first thing I did was pop into Café Sophies, situated a few doors down in another lovely half-timbered building, for a quick coffee and some cake. 

Rathaus and the Medieval Quarter

Next on the agenda was a guided walking tour of Osnabrück’s historic highlights. We began at the striking 15th-century Rathaus, the site where part of the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated and signed in 1648. This late-Gothic building now houses several international institutions dedicated to the study and preservation of peace.

The Rathaus was heavily damaged by British firebombs during WWII, but was later faithfully reconstructed – remarkably, with the help of British soldiers.

From there, we wandered through the picturesque lanes of the medieval quarter. Lined with beautifully preserved half-timbered houses – many still used as private homes, boutiques or restaurants – these narrow streets were an absolute delight to explore.

Bock Tower

We continued along the edges of the Old Town, stopping at remnants of the medieval walls, gates, and towers. One tower in particular, the Bock Tower, holds an especially grim history. Used as a prison in the medieval period, it still contains one of its former “cells”: a large wooden box dating back to the 15th century. The tower later served as a torture chamber during the witch hunts of the 16th century.

Felix Nussbaum House

The next morning, the guided tour resumed with a visit to the Heger Gate, a monument commemorating the soldiers from Osnabrück who died in the 1815 Battle of Waterloo.

Just across the road stands the Felix Nussbaum House, a museum designed by the renowned American architect Daniel Libeskind. Built around the remaining sections of a medieval wall and bridge, the museum is dedicated to the works of Felix Nussbaum, a Jewish artist who perished in Auschwitz.

This visit was another highlight. Nussbaum’s early paintings depict cheerful scenes of family and friends, but as war approached and persecution intensified, his work took a darker turn. His most famous pieces – such as Self-Portrait with Jewish Identity Card and The Triumph of Death – offer haunting, powerful portrayals of the horrors of the era.

St. Peter’s Cathedral

Our final stop was St. Peter’s Cathedral. Built on the foundations of an 8th-century church, the present Romanesque-Gothic structure took shape in stages during the 11th and 13th centuries. Its most distinctive feature is its trio of towers, each a different size, with the central Romanesque crossing tower being the oldest.

Read more about the top things to see in Osnabrück, including a self-guided walking tour.

Münster

My next stop on this rail trip was Münster, a train journey of about 45 minutes. Together with Osnabrück, Münster was the venue for the signing of the Peace of Westphalia in 1648. Known as the ‘City of Bikes’, Münster is another lively university city with a long and fascinating history. Like Osnabrück, much of Münster was destroyed during WWII, but was lovingly restored to its medieval origins, when the city was one of the leading merchant towns of the Hanseatic League.

I was excited to visit Münster because the city has a close historic relationship with The Netherlands. In fact, the Peace of Westphalia marked the end of the Eighty Years’ War between Spanish forces and the Dutch, and effectively created an independent Dutch Republic. These days, the University of Münster has the largest offering of Dutch linguistics/culture studies in Germany. 

Though it was a dreary day, the city was very much alive. Christmas markets were bustling with revellers, and the festive lighting cast a warm glow that made Münster feel wonderfully enchanting.

Highlights of Münster

I stayed at the Atlantic Hotel Münster, a modern and very comfortable hotel just around the corner from the central station and at the edge of the historic city centre. From there, I joined a guided walking tour that started with a leisurely stroll along the Promenade – a green belt of pedestrian and cycling paths that encircles the city, tracing the line of Münster’s former medieval walls.

Sculpture Project

The Promenade is dotted with artworks created for Münster’s Sculpture Project, an international art exhibition held once every ten years (the next will take place in 2027). Many sculptures remain in the city after each edition and can be found along the Promenade as well as inside the Westphalian State Museum. I paused at the intriguing Paul Wulf sculpture before continuing toward the historic centre.

Westphalian Baroque

A short walk later, I came upon the grand Erbdrostenhof, an 18th-century private mansion designed by Johann Conrad Schlaun, the architect behind Schloss Münster (Münster Palace). Built in the Westphalian Baroque style – a regional take on Baroque that retains grandeur but feels slightly more understated – the Erbdrostenhof immediately caught my eye.

St. Lambert’s Church

My next stop was the 14th-century St. Lambert’s Church, its towering spire dominating the skyline. The church is perhaps best known for the three cages that hang from the tower – grim reminders of the Münster Rebellion of 1535, when Jan van Leiden and other instigators were imprisoned and executed.

The 90-metre tower once housed a lookout responsible for spotting fires or incoming attacks. Remarkably, a tradition continues today: every evening, a woman climbs the tower to sound her trumpet.

Looking up, it was impossible to miss the brightly lit ladder affixed to the spire. Known locally as the “Ladder to Heaven,” it is an art installation created in 2022 by Austrian artist Billi Thanner.

Just around the corner from the church, I found the House of Holland, one of Münster’s oldest buildings. In the 17th century, Dutch delegates stayed here while negotiating the Peace of Westphalia.

Prinzipalmarkt

From the church, I wandered down the impressive Prinzipalmarkt – a city square in definition but more like an elegant boulevard lined with medieval-style, step-gabled buildings. I especially loved the porticoes: covered arcades filled with shops and cafés that made the street feel both stately and welcoming.

Rathaus

Among the most striking buildings along Prinzipalmarkt is the Gothic Rathaus, Münster’s old town hall. It was here that key negotiations and the signing of the Peace of Westphalia took place.

St. Peter’s Cathedral

My final stop before dinner was the expansive Domplatz (Cathedral Square) and St. Peter’s Cathedral. While its origins date back to the 9th century, the current Romanesque-Gothic structure is largely from the 13th century.

Inside, I found one of the cathedral’s treasures: a magnificent 16th-century astronomical clock that tracks the movements of the planets.

That evening, I enjoyed a terrific dinner at Pinkus Müller, a cosy family-owned brewery-restaurant serving delicious local specialties and excellent beers.

Westphalian State Museum of Art & Cultural History

The next morning, I visited the striking Westphalian State Museum, located just across the square from the Cathedral. This modern building houses an impressive collection of art and cultural artifacts spanning centuries, including several notable works from Münster’s decennial Sculpture Project.

Bonn

The next city on my itinerary was Bonn, the former capital of the Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany). As the birthplace of Beethoven and a key player in Cold War history, Bonn turned out to be another wonderful surprise. Chosen as the temporary capital after WWII – when Germany was divided between capitalist West and communist East – the city has a fascinating past, full of diplomatic intrigue and memorable anecdotes involving world leaders. Learning about this history during my visit was a real thrill.

As in Osnabrück and Münster, I arrived to find Bonn alive with festive energy. Its extensive Christmas markets were in full swing, offering an enticing mix of food, drinks, and handcrafted items. I happily browsed the stalls and picked up several souvenirs.

Highlights of Bonn

Founded in the 1st century B.C. on the banks of the Rhine, Bonn is one of Germany’s oldest cities. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, it served as the residence of the Archbishops and Prince Electors of Cologne. During this period, magnificent Baroque palaces were constructed, most notably the Electoral Palace and the Altes Rathaus, both of which still stand proudly today.

After WWII, Bonn was chosen over Frankfurt as the capital of West Germany, largely because it was considered “unremarkable”, as my guide amusingly explained. The government assumed reunification with East Germany was imminent, and relocating the capital back to Berlin would be far easier from Bonn than from Frankfurt. Of course, no one anticipated that the division would last another 40 years. As the new capital, Bonn saw a rapid building boom to accommodate ministries, foreign missions, and international organisations.

Bonner Münster (Bonn Minster)

That evening, I wandered through the Old Town, soaking in the warm glow of the Christmas markets, before visiting the Bonn Minster, one of Germany’s oldest churches. Built between the 11th and 13th centuries, it once served as the de facto cathedral of the Archbishopric of Cologne.

The interior, adorned with beautiful mosaics, frescoes, and stained-glass windows, is truly impressive. Visitors can also explore the serene cloister garden and even climb the tower. The massive oak organ is especially striking.

Search for accommodations in Bonn.

Bad Godesberg

The next morning began with a tour of Bad Godesberg, a charming suburb of Bonn. In the 19th century, wealthy families built elegant villas here to enjoy the local hot springs. When Bonn became the capital, many of these villas, especially along Rheinallee, were repurposed as embassies. Today, most have returned to private or commercial use, though a few remain tied to the countries that once occupied them.

Bad Godesberg is also home to La Redoute, a small 18th-century palace built by Prince Elector Max Franz as a recreational retreat. Joseph Haydn famously stayed here, and it was in this very palace in 1792 that he met the young Ludwig van Beethoven, whom he would later bring to Vienna, where Beethoven quickly rose to fame.

Petersberg

We then crossed the Rhine by ferry to Königswinter and made our way up Petersberg (Peter’s Mountain) to the Grand Hotel Petersberg. Once the headquarters of the Allied High Commission – representatives from the USA, UK, and France overseeing post-war West Germany – the hotel became the official state guesthouse in the 1950’s and played a pivotal role in Cold War diplomacy.

Over the years, it has hosted an extraordinary list of world leaders, royals, politicians and artists, including the Shah of Persia, Queen Elizabeth II, Leonid Brezhnev, Mikhail Gorbachev, Nelson Mandela and Bill Clinton. I highly recommend visiting with a guide; the stories and anecdotes are absolutely captivating.

I also recommend walking around the terraces and gardens to enjoy the gorgeous views across the Rhine valley.

Beethoven House

The tour concluded back in Bonn, where I visited Beethoven House, the birthplace of the great composer.

A must-see for anyone visiting the city, especially lovers of classical music, the museum houses an impressive collection of Beethoven’s manuscripts, instruments, and personal items, along with several iconic busts.

Aachen

The final stop on my western Germany rail trip was Aachen, the country’s westernmost city, located about 1.5 hours by train from Cologne. Founded by the Romans, who were drawn to its thermal springs, Aachen later became the capital of the Frankish Empire under Charlemagne in the 9th century. It subsequently formed part of the Holy Roman Empire and served as the imperial coronation city for many kings. Reminders of this illustrious past are still visible today – most notably Aachen Cathedral, Germany’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This was my third visit to Aachen, and it was a joy to rediscover its awe-inspiring monuments, charming streets and lively squares. Read about things to see and do in Aachen.

Search for accommodations in Aachen.

Highlights of Aachen

Aachen’s compact historic centre makes it perfect for exploring on foot. The city was bustling with visitors enjoying the Christmas markets, each set against a magnificent backdrop – either the Cathedral or the Rathaus. Many shop windows were beautifully dressed, adding to the festive atmosphere.

I stopped at Münsterplatz for a warming cup of glühwein before continuing my walk through Aachen’s historic treasures.

Aachen Cathedral

My first stop was the Aachen Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece. Its origins lie in the 8th century, when Charlemagne commissioned the construction of the Palatine Chapel. This octagonal structure, with its soaring dome and sweeping arches, is truly breathtaking. Inspired by the 6th-century Basilica di San Vitale in Ravenna, the chapel is richly decorated with marble, frescoes and dazzling mosaics.

Over the centuries, the complex expanded, with additions such as the Gothic choir hall. Entry to the Cathedral is free, but I highly recommend joining a guided tour, which grants access to the choir hall, where Charlemagne’s shrine is kept, and the first floor, home to Charlemagne’s ancient throne.

Cathedral Treasury

Just around the corner, I visited the Cathedral Treasury, which houses an exceptional collection of medieval church art spanning the era of Charlemagne through to the Gothic period.

Katschhof and Rathaus

From the Treasury, I crossed the Katschhof, a large square often referred to as Aachen’s “living room.” It regularly hosts events and concerts and becomes home to a large Christmas market during the festive season. The square is framed by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Cathedral and the Rathaus, as well as the Charlemagne Centre, a museum dedicated to Aachen’s history. From the steps of the Rathaus, there’s a stunning view of the Cathedral’s distinctive silhouette.

I then walked around the building to Marktplatz, the market square at the Rathaus’s main entrance. From here, I had a beautiful view of the 14th-century Gothic town hall, with its ornate façade and slender towers. Inside are numerous halls, including the impressive Coronation Hall on the first floor, used for exhibitions, weddings and official functions.

Aachen’s Roman Legacy

From the Rathaus, I continued down Krämerstrasse, passing several historic monuments along the way: the medieval Granus Tower, the stately Couven Museum housed in a 17th-century townhouse, and the whimsical Puppenbrunnen (Puppet Fountain).

My next stop was the Elisengarten, where remnants of Aachen’s Roman past are preserved inside a glass pavilion in the centre of the park.

Just a short stroll away is the Elisenbrunnen, home to both the local tourist information office and hot-spring fountains. Visitors are welcome to try the hot, sulphurous water – if they can get past the unmistakable smell of rotten eggs. Evidence of the city’s underground thermal activity can be seen outside the pavilion: clouds of steam (and that same tell-tale sulphur smell) billow up from nearby manhole covers.

This was another delightful journey through the historic highlights of western Germany, made even more special by the chance to visit so many wonderful Christmas markets! It served as yet another reminder of the incredible array of history and beauty in this part of Germany.

Read about the cities I previously visited:

• Things to see in Koblenz
• The highlights of Heidelberg
• Things to see and do in Trier

A brief history of Trier

Founded by the Romans in 16 B.C. as Augusta Treverorum, Trier quickly became one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire north of the Alps. By the 4th century, it was even the residence of several Roman emperors, overseeing much of the Western Roman Empire. In the 5th century, the Franks took control of Trier from the Romans and the city became part of East Francia, which later evolved into the Holy Roman Empire (10th century). In the Middle Ages, many of the Roman structures were used as foundations for other buildings or converted into churches and castles.

Over the centuries, Trier evolved into a cultural and spiritual centre of the region. Today, its rich tapestry of Roman, medieval and modern influences is visible at every turn – from colossal stone gates and imperial baths to Gothic cathedrals and Baroque palaces. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to impressive Roman monuments and a charming old town that reflects more than two millennia of history.

Things to see and do in Trier

I visited Trier as part of a rail tour along the Rhine and Moselle rivers in western Germany. During this tour, I visited four of the 17 Historic Highlights of Germany heritage cities. These heritage cities, which are typically university towns, combine rich history with vibrant culture and cuisine. Best of all, they’re wonderfully walkable.

There’s a lot to see and do in Trier so I recommend a stay of at least two nights. This enables you to tour the amazing Roman monuments, learn about the city’s colourful history, indulge in its wine and culinary offerings, and enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings. For entrance to the Roman sites, you can purchase an Antikencard online or at the tourist office (next door to Porta Nigra). The card provides access to 2 or 4 Roman sites as well as the State Museum. Here’s a suggested two-day itinerary:

Trier 2-day itinerary

Day 1

• Morning: visit Porta Nigra, Hauptmarkt and Trier Cathedral 
• Afternoon: after lunch, visit the Aula Palatina (Basilica of Constantine), Electoral Palace and Rheinisches Landesmuseum. Continue to the Trier Amphitheatre and Petrisberg.
• Evening: enjoy a glass of wine with locals at the Weinstand in Hauptmarkt before tucking into dinner at a cosy restaurant.

Day 2

• Morning: visit the Imperial Baths and the Roman Bridge. Stroll along the Moselle River.
• Afternoon: Lunch in Zurlaubener Ufer, a charming riverside neighbourhood, before embarking on a scenic Moselle River cruise.
• Evening: enjoy a wine-tasting before dinner.

There are numerous hotels in Trier’s city centre. I stayed at the Hotel Porta Nigra Victus, a comfortable hotel a stone’s throw from Porta Nigra, and a 10-minute walk from the central station. Search for accommodations (Booking.com) in Trier.

Trier self-guided walking tour

The map below shows the main attractions in Trier as well as my self-guided walking tour, which can comfortably be done in two days. You’ll also find descriptions of the main attractions in Trier in the same sequence as the walking route. Alternatively, you can join a guided walking tour with wine-tastings along the way!

Porta Nigra

Start your walking tour of Trier at the imposing Porta Nigra. No visit to Trier is complete without seeing the Porta Nigra, the city’s most iconic landmark and one of the best-preserved Roman city gates in the world. Built around 180 A.D., this massive sandstone structure once guarded the northern entrance to the Roman city.

I recommend climbing to the top for panoramic views of Trier’s Old Town. Inside, you’ll also find a small exhibition detailing the gate’s fascinating transformation over the centuries, including its time as a church in the Middle Ages. One thing I found fascinating was that thanks to Napoleon Bonaparte, the church was demolished and the Porta Nigra was converted back to its original Roman form in 1804.

In the square fronting the Porta Nigra, you’ll find a model of the old Roman city. The model gives you an idea of the scale and grandeur of the city during Roman times.

Simeonstrasse

From the Porta Nigra, continue down Simeonstrasse in the direction of Hauptmarkt. This broad, pedestrian street is home to numerous shops, restaurants and cafés, as well as various historic gems:

Dreikönigenhaus

A classic example of medieval Trier is the Dreikönigenhaus (House of the Three Magi). This 13th century building now houses a coffee shop but was once the glamorous home of a wealthy Trier family. Notice the mix of Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic styles. Another interesting element is the main door, which is located on the first floor. In medieval times, the door was reached by a ladder, which could be raised during an attack. 

Half-timbered houses

At the entrance to Judengasse (Jewish Alley), you’ll find three of the few medieval half-timbered houses left in Trier.

Hauptmarkt

At the heart of Trier lies the Hauptmarkt, a lively market square surrounded by colorful medieval buildings, shops and cafés. This bustling plaza has been the city’s commercial centre since the Middle Ages.

Key sights include the Market Cross (dating back to 958 A.D.), St. Peter’s Fountain, the medieval St. Gangolf Church (accessible via a Baroque gate on the square), the 17th century Red House and a charming mix of Gothic and Renaissance facades. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a coffee, people-watch or sample local pastries before continuing your exploration.

One of the most beautiful buildings on the Hauptmarkt is Steipe. Built in the 15th century with contributions from Trier’s citizens, Steipe is a late-Gothic style building with curious-looking statues of two knights on its façade. One knight, with an open visor, watches the square, while the other has his visor closed. Look closely and you’ll see his eyes peeled in the direction of the Cathedral, and his genitals exposed – a jibe at the religious leaders of the time. Steipe was reduced to rubble during WWII but was lovingly restored with donations from locals.

At Hauptmarkt, you’ll also find the Weinstand. This permanent wine booth is a popular social spot for locals and visitors alike. Local wineries take turns to man the booth and showcase their wines.

In December, the Hauptmarkt transforms into one of Germany’s most picturesque Christmas markets, with wooden stalls selling mulled wine, handmade gifts, and festive treats.

Trier Cathedral

A short stroll from the Hauptmarkt lies the Domfreihof, an impressive square overlooked by the stunning Trierer Dom (Trier Cathedral) and the Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), a neighbouring Gothic church that forms part of Trier’s UNESCO World Heritage ensemble.

Entrance is free and inside, you’ll find centuries of artistry and faith on display, from intricate stone carvings and golden reliquaries to soaring vaulted ceilings. The Cathedral also houses one of Christianity’s most sacred relics: the Holy Tunic, believed to be the robe worn by Jesus before his crucifixion. It’s displayed to the public only on rare occasions.

Stroll around the cloister gardens, where you’ll have a stunning view of the Cathedral ‘skyline’, and visit the Cathedral Treasury (a ticket is required), with its impressive collection of religious artifacts.

Layers of history

Originating in the 4th century and consequently expanded across the centuries, the Trier Cathedral is a showcase of Roman, Romanesque and Gothic elements. These layers of history are easy to spot, particularly along the north façade, or from the peaceful cloister gardens. The north façade is especially interesting as it includes 4th century Roman brickwork, 11th century Romanesque architecture and 21st century engineering techniques to keep this massive structure intact!

Aula Palatina – Basilica of Constantine

Our next stop is the Aula Palatina or Basilica of Constantine. Commissioned by Emperor Constantine in the early 4th century, it’s one of the best-preserved Roman structures in Trier. Originally built as an imperial throne hall for Emperor Constantine, its immense brick interior is an awe-inspiring sight.

The hall’s sheer size, 67m long and 33m high, symbolises the power and authority of the Roman emperors. Today, the building serves as a Protestant church, and visitors can admire its minimalist interior and striking sense of space.

Outside, the adjoining Electoral Palace (Kurfürstliches Palais) adds a touch of Baroque elegance, with ornate gardens that are perfect for a stroll.

Rheinisches Landesmuseum

At the edges of the gardens of the Electoral Palace, you’ll find the Rheinisches Landesmuseum or Rhineland State Museum. I highly recommend visiting this museum, one of the most important archaeological museums in Germany, to see its outstanding collection of Roman mosaics, frescoes and sculptures.

The museum also houses Germany’s largest collection of Roman coins, a hoard of thousands of gold coins found in Trier in 1993.

Trier Amphitheatre

A ±15-minute walk from the museum lies Trier’s Roman Amphitheatre. Built around 100 A.D. into the slope of the Petrisberg hill, it could once seat up to 20,000 spectators, hosting gladiatorial contests, animal hunts and public spectacles.

Today, the amphitheatre is remarkably well-preserved, allowing visitors to walk through the same tunnels where gladiators once awaited their fate. In summer, the site often hosts historical reenactments, open-air concerts and plays.

Weinkulturpfad

If you have time and enjoy a little hike, I recommend the Weinkulturpfad (Wine Culture Path). This path leads through the vineyards on the slopes of the Petrisberg hill. Along the way, you’ll get to learn about the grape varieties grown in the area and enjoy beautiful views of Trier. The path starts just outside the Amphitheatre.

Roman baths

There are numerous ruins of Roman baths in Trier, the largest of which are the Kaiserthermen, or Imperial Baths. These vast ruins once formed part of an enormous bath complex constructed in the 4th century for Emperor Constantine’s residence. It was never fully completed, and in the Middle Ages, it was used as a castle.

The site remains one of the largest and best-preserved Roman bathhouses outside Italy. Visitors can explore the subterranean tunnels and ancient heating systems that reveal how advanced Roman engineering was.

The largest bath was the Barbarathermen or Barbara Baths. Built in the 2nd century A.D., this is the largest Roman bath complex outside of Rome! However, not much of this huge complex exists today.

Discovered in 1987, the Thermen am Viehmarkt, or Forum Baths, is another Roman bath complex. Over the centuries, parts of the baths were used to build other structures in the city. The site itself was converted into a cattle market, hence the name Viehmarkt (cattle market).

Karl Marx House

Trier is also the birthplace of philosopher and economist Karl Marx. His birthplace, a Baroque-style townhouse, is now the Karl Marx House Museum.

The museum provides an engaging look at Marx’s life, his revolutionary ideas and their influence on modern history. It’s an interesting stop for anyone interested in politics, philosophy or social history.

Roman Bridge

Spanning the Moselle River, Trier’s Roman Bridge is the oldest bridge north of the Alps still in use today. Its stone piers date back to the 2nd century AD and have withstood countless floods, wars and centuries of use.

Moselle embankment

From the Roman Bridge, enjoy a serene stroll along the Moselle embankment, with its lush greenery and river views, towards Zurlauben. Along the way, you’ll pass two historic cranes which were used to haul goods from river barges. The oldest crane, the Alter Krahnen, commenced operations in 1452!

Zurlaubenufer

The Zurlauben shore consists of a row of charming 18th century houses, many of which have been converted into restaurants. This is the perfect spot to enjoy a refreshment and a meal. If you love fried chicken, don’t miss Flieten Franz!

Zurlaubenufer is also the embarkation point for Moselle River cruises. There’s a cruise at 3pm that combines river views with a bus excursion to a local winery for a wine-tasting/meal.

From Zurlaubenuber, it’s a ±15-minute walk back to Porta Nigra in the centre of Trier.

Where to wine and dine in Trier

There’s no shortage of terrific restaurants, atmospheric wine taverns and historic wine cellars in Trier. I’ve pinned the following places on the map above.

To taste some of the local wines, I recommend a visit to Weinstand (Hauptmarkt) or Goldmund Wein & Freunde at Glockenstraße 10 (check ahead for their wine-tasting events). Weinbar Trier, near Porta Nigra, is a casual bar with an excellent collection of wines.

Fancy a tour of a Germany’s oldest wine cellar (built in 330A.D.!) coupled with a wine-tasting? Then head to Vereinigte Hospitien (Krahnenufer 19) for an unforgettable tour.

For a delightful meal, I recommend Weinstube Kesselstatt (Liebfrauenstraße 10), near the Cathedral; Weinwirtschaft Friedrich-Wilhelm (Weberbach 75) near the Aula Palatina; and Brasserie Zur Sim (Simeonstraße 59) near Porta Nigra.

While exploring Trier, I stopped for lunch at Textorium (Wechselstraße 4, near the Imperial Baths) and loved the youthful vibes, industrial setting and delicious food.

If you enjoy seafood and wines, head to Oechsle Wein- und Fischhaus (Palaststraße 5-7).

How to get to Trier

Trier is well-connected by road and rail. There are frequent direct train services, or via Koblenz, from Cologne. From major German cities such as Frankfurt and Munich, change trains in Mannheim. There is also a direct train service from Luxembourg. If you’re taking the train or driving from Koblenz, Saarbrücken or Luxembourg, you’ll be treated to simply gorgeous scenery along the way!

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to do in Koblenz
• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to see in Potsdam
• Things to do in Heidelberg
• Things to see in Aachen

Note: my visit to Trier was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

Things to see and do in Heidelberg

I visited Heidelberg as part of a rail tour along the Rhine and Moselle rivers in western Germany. During this tour, I visited four of the 17 Historic Highlights of Germany heritage cities. These heritage cities are typically university towns with a rich historical legacy, and with a vibrant cultural and culinary scene. Another similarity is that these cities are easy to explore on foot.

I recommend spending two nights in Heidelberg to see the main sights, and to enjoy the historic, culinary and cultural offerings, as well as the beautiful natural surroundings. Here’s a suggested two-day Heidelberg itinerary:

Heidelberg 2-day itinerary

Day 1

• Morning: Explore the Old Town (see my walking route below)
• Afternoon: After lunch, visit one of the museums such as the Student Prison and Great Aula of the University, or the Museum of the Palatinate. In the late-afternoon, consider a hike to the Philosopher’s Walk for stunning (sunset) views across Heidelberg.
• Evening: Enjoy a wine at a weinstube followed by dinner.

Day 2

• Morning: Take the funicular to Heidelberg Castle. Explore the Castle, Barrel Building, Pharmacy Museum, gardens and enjoy the view from the Scheffel terrace.
• Afternoon: Continue up the mountain on the historic funicular to Königstuhl (King’s Seat). Have lunch at Berggasthof and/or hike along the Via Naturae path before returning to the Old Town. In the late-afternoon, enjoy a scenic cruise along the Neckar river.
• Evening: Walk along the Old Bridge to see the city lights, followed by dinner.

Heidelberg Old Town self-guided walking tour

The map below shows the main attractions in Heidelberg as well as a self-guided walking tour through the historic Old Town (Altstadt), which can comfortably be done in a day. I’ve also included separate walking routes to the Philosopher’s Way and around Heidelberg Castle. In addition, I highly recommend taking the historic funicular to the top of Königstuhl, a wonderful experience in itself, for gorgeous panoramic views, forest trails and a terrific lunch. 

Things to see in the Old Town of Heidelberg – a walking route

The Altstadt is the beating heart of Heidelberg, filled with photogenic lanes, lively cafés, and historic buildings. Hauptstrasse, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, is lined with boutiques, restaurants and historic buildings. Follow my walking route along the top sights in Heidelberg’s Old Town as well as through charming side alleys that reveal quieter corners of the city.

Old Bridge and City Gate

Start your walk at the Stadttor (City Gate) and Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). Built in the 18th century, the Alte Brücke, with its twin-tower gate, connects the Old Town with the northern bank of the Neckar River.

The bridge is one of the most photographed spots in Heidelberg, especially with the castle towering above. Pause to admire the Bridge Monkey statue, a quirky symbol of the city.

Tip: book a stay at Hotel Höllander Hof for gorgeous views of the bridge and the Neckar river. I stayed there and the view from my room, and the wonderful staff, were two of the highlights of my visit to Heidelberg.

Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit)

From the bridge, walk up Steingasse (a lovely street lined with cafés, restaurants and a brewery) to the Church of the Holy Spirit. This 14th century church, in Gothic style, has a fascinating history marked by rivalries between Protestants and Catholics. These days, the separate doors for Protestants and Catholics can still be seen, as well as the market stalls that adorn its exterior. 

Marktplatz and Rathaus

The Marktplatz is a large square with the Rathaus (Town Hall) in one corner and the Church of the Holy Spirit in the other. There are numerous cafés in the square, where you can enjoy a refreshment with a view of the castle and the church.

Kornmarkt and Karlsplatz

From Marktplatz, continue your walk along Hauptstrasse, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, to Kornmarkt and Karlsplatz. These two historic squares, adorned with beautiful fountains and overlooked by the castle, are the main locations for the Christmas Market every year. 

Knight’s House St. George

From Karlsplatz, backtrack along Hauptstrasse to the Church of the Holy Spirit and continue to the Knight’s House St. George. This 16th century building, with its ornate sandstone façade, is a prime example of the Renaissance style in Heidelberg. Nowadays, it houses the Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg.

Jesuit Church

Continue along Hauptstrasse and turn left into Heugasse. You’ll see your next stop right away: the imposing Jesuit Church. Built in the 18th century, it features a striking, white interior.

Heidelberg University

The next stops include various attractions of the Heidelberg University. Founded in the 14th century, Heidelberg University remains one of Europe’s leading academic institutions. There are numerous places of interest, including the Studentenkarzer (Student Prison), Alte Aula (Old Aula), University Library and Marstall (the university canteen housed in the 16th century royal stables and armoury).

The Student Prison is a quirky attraction in Heidelberg that’s both amusing and fascinating. In the 18th century, students who committed minor offences, like boisterous behaviour, were sent to stay for up to a week in the Student Prison. They marked their stay with graffiti on the walls. In 1878, Mark Twain, who was visiting Heidelberg, heard about the prison. Intrigued by the concept, he paid the University to stay in the prison!

The Old Aula, an ornate, neo-Classical hall used for graduations and events, can be accessed via the University Museum/Student Prison – ask the staff for directions.

Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate)

For those interested in art and archaeology, the Kurpfälzisches Museum showcases Heidelberg’s cultural heritage, from Roman artifacts to paintings by 19th-century masters. It’s a compact but rewarding stop for history lovers.

Friedrich Ebert Museum

Another museum that’s worth a visit is the Friedrich Ebert House Museum. Born in Heidelberg, Friedrich Ebert became the first President of Germany (1919-1925). The museum and house (free entrance) offer fascinating insights into Germany’s history in this period.

Heidelberger Studentenkuss

Our last stop on this Heidelberg Old Town walking tour is the Heidelberger Studentenkuss store. Learn the story behind these world-famous chocolates and take some home with you.

Walking tours

There are also numerous guided walking tours of the Old Town to choose from, such as this 1.5 hour tour or this Night Watchman tour. Heidelberg, a member of the Rainbow Cities network, also offers a walking tour focused on the city’s LGBTQ+ history.

Philosopher’s Walk

For the best views of Heidelberg, cross the Old Bridge and follow the Schlangenweg, a steep, winding cobblestone path that snakes up the hillside to the Philosopher’s Walk. Along the way, take a moment to pause, catch your breath and soak in the breathtaking panorama of the Old Town and castle. I recommend making the climb just before sunset, when the warm evening light casts a rosy glow over the rooftops and bathes the castle in shades of pink.

You can also explore the Philosopher’s Walk and its stunning views on a Segway tour that starts in the Old Town.

Heidelberg Castle attractions

Perched dramatically above the Old Town, Heidelberg Castle is the city’s most famous landmark. The castle’s mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture tells a story of both grandeur and ruin.

Take the funicular railway from the Heidelberg Bergbahn station up to the castle. I recommend purchasing the Panorama ticket that includes the historic funicular to Königstuhl, a 567m-high mountain.

At the Castle, look out for the Great Wine Barrel (one of the world’s largest), the partially destroyed Herb Tower and enjoy the views from the castle terrace. I also recommend visiting the fascinating Pharmacy Museum. You can also opt to join a 2-hour skip-the-line guided tour of Heidelberg Castle.

If you have time, wander through the castle gardens for a serene escape and take in the gorgeous view from the Scheffel terrace.

Königstuhl (King’s Seat)

With your Panorama ticket, continue from the castle station up to the Molkenkur station. From the station, it’s a short walk to the Königstuhl funicular, a historic funicular that has been operating since 1907. The rickety ride is an experience in itself! 

At an altitude of 567m, Königstuhl is often cooler than in the Old Town so I recommend bringing an extra sweater. If you’re up for a hike, head to the Via Naturae path (there are two trails: 3.5km and 8km) that winds its way through the forest. For a meal, check out Berggasthof, a hotel/restaurant that serves delicious local fare (reservations recommended). 

Neckar river cruise

A river cruise is one of the most relaxing ways to appreciate Heidelberg and its surroundings. Some boats travel up the Neckar Valley, passing through charming villages and lush vineyards. Sunset cruises are especially romantic, with the castle glowing in the fading light.

Where to eat in Heidelberg

A few doors down from the Studentenkuss store is the terrific Schnookeloch hotel/restaurant (Haspelgasse 8). This typical German restaurant serves hearty, local dishes that are big in size and flavour!

For a cosy, fine-dining experience, I recommend Gasthaus Backmulde (Schiffgasse 11). The food and service are top-notch, and they also have an extensive wine list.

How to get to Heidelberg

Heidelberg is well-connected by road and rail. There are frequent direct train services, or via Mannheim, from major German cities such as Cologne, Frankfurt and Munich. Note that the Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof (central station) is located about 20 minutes by bus from the Old Town – there are numerous services every hour. Heidelberg is also a popular stop for Rhine River cruise ships which moor in nearby Mannheim.

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to do in Koblenz
• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to see in Bremen

Note: my visit to Heidelberg was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

I visited Koblenz as part of a rail tour along the Rhine and Moselle rivers in western Germany to visit four of the 17 heritage cities known as Historic Highlights of Germany. Like the other heritage cities, Koblenz is a university town with a rich historical legacy and a vibrant cultural and culinary scene. Another similarity is that Koblenz has a compact old town that’s perfect to explore on foot. Furthermore, the attractions outside the city centre are easily accessible by public transport. Here are ten things to do in and around Koblenz (including a map with pins of the places mentioned below):

1. Wander around the old town

The old town suffered extensive damage during WWII but many buildings of historical importance were restored. In the old town, you’ll find impressive historic monuments and a mix of architectural styles, lively squares and charming streets. The main sights in the old town include:

Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)

This imposing church has its origins in the 5th century A.D., though the current structure dates from the 17th century. It features a striking mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles.

Vier Türme (Four Towers)

The intersection of Marktstrasse and Altengraben is marked by four 17th century buildings with beautifully decorated bay windows.

Kunstgässchen alley

A lovely medieval alley filled with little stores and cosy cafés.

Brunnen Am Plan

A lively square lined by historic buildings, cafés and restaurants.

History column

There are numerous fountains across the old town but this is one of the most interesting ones. Located in Josef-Görres-Platz, the History Column illustrates the history of Koblenz across the ages.

I especially enjoyed looking out for local craft, fashion and food/wine stores, of which there are numerous scattered across the old town. 

2. Schängelbrunnen fountain

As I strolled around the old town, I stumbled upon the Schängelbrunnen fountain in the courtyard of the Rathaus (City Hall). Dedicated to the Koblenz poet Josef Cornelius, who wrote the lyrics to the well-known Schängellied, the anthem of the people of Koblenz, it’s an intriguing fountain as it features a boy spitting.

I read up about the fountain and learned that it represents the Schängelchen, the children of French occupiers and local Germans in the 19th century. “Why is he spitting?”, you might ask. Perhaps a cheeky way of symbolising the townsfolk’s disdain for authority? The fact that the boy is spitting at the town hall gave me that idea. Haha! The official reading is that it represents the fun-loving and mischievous nature of native Koblenzers.

3. Stroll along the Rhine promenade

During your visit, don’t miss a stroll along the Rhine promenade to enjoy the scenery. Along the way, you’ll pass numerous historical sights, serene parks and places to stop for a refreshment or meal. Don’t miss these sights:

Deutsches Eck

At the very tip of the promenade, at the point where the Rhine and Moselle rivers meet, stands the imposing 19th century Deutsches Eck monument, with a massive statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. 

Prussian government building

This early-20th century building in neo-Romanesque style once housed the administration of the Prussian government.

Electoral Palace

The Electoral Palace was once the residence of the Electors of Trier. Built in the Classical style, it’s currently being renovated but it’s possible to enjoy the ornamental gardens. While there, look out for the statue of Father Rhine and Mother Moselle.

4. Visit the Basilica of St. Kastor

Just off the Rhine promenade is the 9th century Basilica of St. Kastor. This beautiful church, Koblenz’s oldest church, is a wonderful example of Romanesque architecture.

5. Hop on the cable-car to Ehrenbreitstein fortress

Just behind the Basilica of St. Kastor is a cable-car station. From here, visitors are whisked up and across the Rhine to the Ehrenbreitstein fortress. Built by the Prussians in the 19th century to guard the Middle Rhine region, it’s one of the largest fortresses in Europe.

The cable-car ride provides panoramic views of Koblenz and the Rhine and Moselle rivers. I recommend walking around the fortress to see its impressive walls, enjoy the views and visit the Archaeological Museum.

6. Go on a Rhine river cruise

No trip to Koblenz would be complete without a Rhine river cruise. The Rhine gorge, just south of Koblenz, is an area of steep slopes topped with castles and fortresses, vineyards and picturesque villages. The cruises from Koblenz typically last about 2 hours and the scenery is simply stunning!

7. Enjoy a wine experience

Located in the heart of the Middle Rhine wine region, and in close proximity to the Moselle wine region, Koblenz boasts a good variety of wine experiences. Visitors can hike through the vineyards and stop for a wine-tasting, go on cellar tours or visit a family-owned winery.

There are many family-owned wineries in the vicinity of Koblenz. One I can recommend for a wine-tasting visit is Weingut Göhlen (map). Located across the Rhine river behind the Ehrenbreitstein fortress, this winery has gorgeous gardens, delicious wines and absolutely lovely owners. Try the gorgeous Riesling, Bacchus and Ehrenbreitsteiner (a Spätlese dedicated to the nearby fortress).

To get there, take bus no.9 from the city centre to Mühlental and walk the rest of the way to the winery. I recommend booking a wine-tasting in advance (possible via the tourist office).

8. Visit Zentralplatz

Just outside the old town, at Zentralplatz, you’ll find a modern building which houses the tourist office, library and Middle Rhine Museum. Step inside to see the spectacular architecture of the library and visit the tourist office for information and tours.

In the lounge area, there’s an interactive TV screen that illustrates the history of Koblenz in images and videos. The tourist office also has a shop that sells a big variety of local products.

9. Indulge in local cuisine and wines

There’s a great variety of restaurants and wine bars (weinstube) where you can taste the local cuisine and wines. For a terrific meal in a cosy setting, I recommend Wirtshaus Alt Koblenz at Brunnen Am Plan square.

To enjoy some of the local wines, head to Entrée Weinbar or the atmospheric Weinhaus Hubertus.

10. Visit Schloss Stolzenfels

This gorgeous castle, built by the Prussians in the 19th century, is a prime example of Rhine Romanticism. Located about 7km from Koblenz, it served as the summer residence of King Friedrich Wilhelm IV and his family. 

To get there, take bus no. 670 from Koblenz Hauptbahnhof (central station) to Koblenz Schlossweg. From there, it’s a 20-minute uphill walk to the castle through the beautiful gardens of Peter Joseph Lenné, the chief gardener of the Prussian royals. It’s also possible to reach the castle by car, boat or bicycle. Check at the tourist office in Koblenz for castle tours and tickets.

Two-day Koblenz itinerary

Koblenz can easily be covered in two days. I stayed at the comfortable Four Points Flex by Sheraton Koblenz (located at the central station, a 20-minute walk to the old town) but there are many other accommodations to choose from. Here’s a suggested 2-day Koblenz itinerary:

Day 1:

• Morning: explore the Old Town and Rhine Promenade
• Afternoon: take the cable-car to Ehrenbreitstein fortress
• Evening: wine at a weinstube followed by dinner

Day 2:

• Morning: go on a Rhine river cruise (optional: combine with a visit to Stolzenfels castle)
• Afternoon: wine-tasting at a local winery

If you have more time, I strongly recommend visiting Trier (the train or car ride from Koblenz along the Moselle is in itself a treat!). Read more about things to see in Trier.

How to get to Koblenz

Koblenz is well-connected by road and rail. There are frequent direct train services from major German cities such as Cologne, Frankfurt and Munich. Koblenz is also a popular stop for Rhine River cruise ships.

Note: my visit to Koblenz was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.