What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!…

The Duomo in Milan

The crown of spires

The Duomo is arguably Milan’s most famous monument and attracts millions of visitors every year. The ornate interior is nothing short of breathtaking but before you step inside, explore the elaborate exterior, with its sculptures, columns and a roof that bursts into a crown of spires, each topped by a unique statue.

The elaborate spires and arches of the Duomo's façade

The best way to admire the Duomo’s impressive exterior is to do the roof-climb – or you could simply take the elevator! The path winds its way around the upper levels, offering visitors magnificent close-ups of the intricate stone sculptures, spires, gargoyles and statues. The close-ups and the views across Milan and of the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II are absolutely stunning.

Statues atop the spires

The sun peeks through the spires

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II seen through the spires

A stairway takes visitors to the rooftop where they can sit and enjoy the views of the spires – look for the polychrome Madonna statue atop the highest spire (at a dizzying height of 109 meters or roughly 360 feet). If it’s a clear day, I recommend doing the roof-climb just before sunset. It’s a magical experience to see the pinnacles and statues bathed in the orangy-pink glow from the sun.

The roof of the Duomo

Away above, on the lofty roof, rank on rank of carved and fretted spires spring high in the air, and through their rich tracery one sees the sky beyond. … (Up on) the roof…springing from its broad marble flagstones, were the long files of spires, looking very tall close at hand, but diminishing in the distance…We could see, now, that the statue on the top of each was the size of a large man, though they all looked like dolls from the street… They say that the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St. Peter’s at Rome. I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands. – Mark Twain

Mark Twain’s spirited description of the Duomo’s exterior inspired me to spend more time to explore this architectural wonder. The crown of spires certainly took my breath away.

Search for hotels in Milan.

The spires of the Duomo is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

A delicious cava under the porticoes of Cal Sastre

What: Fine-dining at a small medieval village in the Garrotxa region of Catalonia.

Where: Cal Sastre restaurant, Santa Pau.

Notes: Santa Pau is a sleepy medieval village in the Garrotxa Volcanic region of Catalonia, north of Barcelona. The village is tiny but there are a variety of reasons that make a visit absolutely worthwhile: its medieval porticoes, alleys and arches; its 15th century Gothic church; and one of the finest culinary gems in the region: Cal Sastre.

I first visited Cal Sastre during the #InCostaBrava blog trip in May 2011. We had spent the morning at arguably one of the best restaurants in the world, El Bulli, where we had the opportunity to meet Ferran Adriá and taste some of his world famous cuisine. From El Bulli, we made our way to the Garrotxa Volcanic region and stopped at Santa Pau, where we were led on a walking tour that ended at the porticoes of Cal Sastre.

What followed was an unforgettable lunch consisting of the best wild mushroom cannelloni I’ve ever had and an equally superb Crema Catalana. The contrast between the cutting-edge cuisine at El Bulli and the wholesome goodness of traditional Catalan fare at Cal Sastre couldn’t have been greater! Needless to say, it was a culinary experience I won’t easily forget.

Santa Pau

The highlight of the meal was the wild mushroom cannelloni, topped with a sprinkling of crushed black truffles and pistachio nuts. The rich flavours of the wild mushrooms and cream combined superbly with the soft, smooth texture of the cannelloni. Each mouthful felt like a spoonful of heaven and I greedily swept through three whole servings!

The heavenly cannelloni

I returned to the Costa Brava in July to explore more of the region and I made sure I had ample time for another round of heaven at Cal Sastre. I was welcomed with a big hug and a delicious cava. After consulting with Jesús, the proprietor, I ordered the cannelloni, tuna tataki with trout caviar and the steak with morel sauce. The cannelloni was just as good as the first time but I limited myself to a single serving this time around! The tuna tataki was incredibly fresh and blended beautifully with the slightly salty caviar. A pinch of wasabi was sufficient to complete the dish.

Tuna tataki with trout caviar

The steak soon followed, complemented by a gorgeous red wine from the Montsant region (Clos del Gos 2009/Montsant/grenache, samso & syrah). The meat was very tender and juicy, grilled to perfection (medium, just the way I like my steaks) and served with a creamy morel sauce and green asparagus. Absolutely stunning! The morel sauce was superb but the springy texture and rich flavour of the meat and the way it was expertly cooked took centre-stage. It was another phenomenal dining experience at Cal Sastre!

The steak with morel sauce

I highly recommend Cal Sastre to anyone passing through this part of Catalonia. Drop by for an unforgettable meal or stay for a few days – the proprietor, Jesús, has a rather quirky hotel (a must see, to be honest!) in the village. You’ll love it!

Hotel Cal Sastre

Note: my first trip to Costa Brava was part of the #InCostaBrava blog trip organised by the Costa Brava Tourism Board. As always, all views expressed in this post are mine.

Culinary Journey: Cal Sastre in Santa Pau is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Dokkum - one of the towns of the Elfstedentocht (image courtesy of Thea Sijtsma)

It’s that time of the year again, when the thermometer hanging outside my window shows a lower reading than the display on my freezer. When I first moved to the Netherlands more than 20 years ago, one of the first things that caught my attention was the Dutch people’s preoccupation with ice. As soon as the first frost arrives, you can almost literally feel the excitement build up. The media joins in with vigour and if the frost continues, so does the frequency of weather updates whilst the discussions about the condition of the ice in the rivers, lakes and canals across the country gain momentum. The reason: ice-skating is the national winter sport – the large number of speed-skating medals the Dutch have amassed at the Winter Olympics only confirms this. But this is only the start of the Dutch winter frenzy!

The ‘Elfstedentocht’

As temperatures stay below the freezing point, you’ll soon find people out on their skates and the media is flooded with images of ice-skating fever from around the country. Technical terms like ‘black ice’ (describing the quality of the ice) become commonplace. Soon, all eyes are focused on the province of Friesland, home of the (in)famous ‘Elfstedentocht‘ or the Eleven Cities Tour. The ‘Elfstedentocht’ is the world’s longest speed-skating competition, with a course that winds 200km along frozen lakes, rivers and canals and past eleven historic Frisian towns. The competition is held only when strict conditions are met, such as the thickness of the ice along the entire 200km course – the last Elfstedentocht was held in 1997. Each ‘Elfstedentocht’ is preceded by a period of intense speculation and once the start-shot is sound, it’s met with something akin to national hysteria. The past winners were hailed as national heroes. As I write this, the ‘Elfstedentocht’ commission is busy planning the next edition, which, barring a premature thaw, could possibly be held this weekend. The name is on everyone’s lips and not an hour goes by without a mention of it on the radio or television.

Set against a decor of quintessentially Dutch winter scenes (think snowy fields, frozen canals, quaint villages and windmills), participating in or standing at the sidelines of the Elfstedentocht is an extraordinary experience for both locals and visitors alike.

Ice-skating on the canals of Amsterdam

Ice-skating fever hits the country as soon as the authorities give the green light for enthusiasts to venture out onto the ice. In my town, that means one thing: getting your skates out for a fun afternoon out on the frozen canals of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam winter scenes: bicycles, canal mansions and people out on the ice!

Canal boats are barred from passing through selected canals, such as the Keizersgracht, and that’s where you’ll find Amsterdammers out on their skates.

Out on the Keizersgracht

Amsterdammers come out in full force with their friends and families to enjoy the cold weather and a fun afternoon on ice-skates!

A group of friends out on the ice

A mother takes her baby out for a err... skate!

Mum on skates and her child in a sled (with hot choco!). Sweet!

Canal boat landings double in the winter as benches for the skaters to get geared up for the ice!

Getting ready for the ice!

The frozen Keizersgracht

For visitors, it’s a special treat to witness these winter scenes in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Amsterdam city centre. If this frosty period continues, expect more activities on the ice such as speed-skating competitions, marathons and festivals!

The Dutch winter frenzy is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The island in Yes Bay

The glow-slugs

“How was your camping trip”, I asked the two ladies at lunch. They’d just returned from an overnight stay in a camp on an island in Yes Bay, Alaska. They responded enthusiastically, recalling their campfire, feasting on Alaskan king crabs and story-telling. The elderly of the two remarked that there were many slugs on the island. “They were all over the place! Gross!”

“Hmmm… pity it wasn’t a full moon night”, I said.

“Why?”, she said.

“The slugs on that island are famous the world over. Didn’t anyone tell you that?” They shook their heads in unison. “They’re glow slugs that live in the trees. However, they only glow when there’s a full moon. When they do, they light up the trees. Being there, with the light from the moon and a soft glow emanating from the trees… I can imagine it’s like being in an enchanted forest. I didn’t join you on the island because, well, it wasn’t a full-moon night”.

The enchanted forest

The two ladies looked at me, their eyes wide in amazement.

“Did you see Avatar, the movie?”.

They nodded.

“The story goes that James Cameron, the producer/director, spent the night on this island and that’s how he got the idea for the enchanted forest scenes in the movie.”

“That’s the most incredible thing I’ve ever heard!”, one of them proclaimed whilst the other pursed her lips. I could almost see her complaining to the guide for not telling her anything about the glow slugs.

“Yes, the island has been shortlisted to become the next UNESCO World Heritage site in Alaska and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World”, I added for good measure. As soon as the words escaped my mouth, I broke into a smile and the smile turned into a guffaw. They looked at me, then started laughing. One of them reached across the table and playfully slapped my wrist.

“Ok, that was a good one! You really had us fooled you naughty lad!”

I love making up stories – I probably inherited that trait from my Dad. Read about the ice cave, another tall tale from Alaska.

Have you ever fooled anyone with a fantasy travel story? Or have you ever been fooled? Please share them in the comments section below.

Tall tales from Alaska – glow slugs is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Westminster Abbey is one of the London landmarks that I always think takes an entire day to itself. I know some people ‘do’ it in an hour and a bit, but it is the sort of place that richly repays a more leisurely, lingering visit. And there’s far more to it than it being simply where Wills and Kate tied the knot!

Westminter Abbey (image courtesy of slurm)

Originally a monastic church (founded by Edward the Confessor, though none of his building survives), it became the coronation church of the English monarchs; only two since 1066 have not been crowned here, Edward V and VIII – and that’s because they weren’t crowned at all (Edward V was one of the ‘Princes in the Tower’ who disappeared mysteriously and Edward VIII abdicated to marry Wallis Simpson). It’s not surprising then that it holds the tombs of many English kings and nobility; but it also fulfils part of the role of the French Pantheon, with Poet’s Corner commemorating English writers.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (image courtesy of Herry)

Most visitors head there for its history – the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Coronation Chair (now minus the Stone of Scone though, which has been returned to Scotland). But there is also a huge amount of art history in the Abbey – as well as some oddities. I’ve mixed them up together in this article; I’ve also suggested some ways you can link your visit with other nearby monuments and sights, for instance going on to the National Gallery or Charing Cross or across the road to Westminster Hall.

By the way, the monuments are actually quite a good way to acquaint yourself with the evolution of western art, from the Middle Ages through to the present day.

You can quite easily follow the changes in taste – medieval kings lying in state, formal and linear; the Renaissance tombs, more realistic, showing their inhabitants reclining or kneeling; the eighteenth century with its weeping angels and figures of death with his scythe, and often with symbols taken from real life – cannons, telescopes, ships; and even modern works, such as the stained glass window commemorating the airmen of the Battle of Britain.

Westminster Abbey (image courtesy of Bruchez)

Here is my guided tour of Westminster Abbey:

• As you come into the Abbey you’ll see the great vault that covers the nave. People will often tell you that medieval architects were anonymous – but this one certainly wasn’t; it’s the work of Henry Yevele, started in 1362. We know a lot about Yevele; he worked at Canterbury Cathedral and on several of the king’s castles and palaces, and he also built the amazing roof at Westminster Hall, just across the road. So as you go out of the Abbey, take another look at the vault; and then, if you can get on a tour of the Palace of Westminster, you’ll be able to compare his other great work with this.
• The painting of Richard II that hangs at the west end of the Abbey is something many visitors miss. Richard was a great patron of the arts, which he used to promote his concept of sacred kingship. Politically, it was a failure – he was deposed by Henry IV and died in suspicious circumstances not much later on – but artistically, it created the most elegant and beautiful art of the English middle ages. He was also a patron of the poet Chaucer. You can compare this painting to his tomb effigy (also in the Abbey), then walk up the road to the National Gallery to see the Wilton Diptych, a tiny gem-like painting of the king with his patron saints and choirs of angels.
• The royal effigies in the cathedral museum are an incredible witness to history; they were not intended to decorate the tomb, but were placed on top of the coffin for the royal funeral. Again there’s a comparison to be made; Edward III’s funeral effigy has the drooping mouth of an old man killed by a stroke (and originally had eyebrows made out of dogs’ hair) – but his fine tomb effigy shows the mature king in his pride, with flowing hair and sad dignity.
• There are only three competitors for the prize of best English Perpendicular Gothic – Gloucester cathedral cloister, King’s College Chapel and the wonderful Chapel of Henry VIIhere in the Abbey. This is certainly the most fanciful of the three, with pendant bosses like stalactites and the most complex tracery in its vault – and the outside, with its pinnacles and golden weather vanes, is also exceptional. Henry VII was a king who stood at the frontiers of the middle ages and the Renaissance and it’s quite fitting that while the chapel is the last flourish of Gothic, his tomb and effigy should be by an Italian artist, Pietro Torrigiano, who had studied with Michelangelo (and reputedly smacked the senior artist one on the nose during a dispute). You can see how realistic the figure is compared to earlier tombs – the drapery looks real, the face is a naturalistic portrait (the tomb of Margaret Beaufort, Henry’s mother, is also by Torrigiano). Look out for the heraldic badges that decorate the chapel – the daisy or Marguerite (for Margaret), the Beaufort portcullis, the lions of England and fleur de lis of France, and Edward IV’s badge of the falcon with padlock
  

  Henry VII's chapel (image courtesy of Herry)

• Of course you want to see the Coronation Chair. But it’s just a chair, albeit a very ornate medieval one. The thing I really love about it though, is the set of little lions that support it. Now the chair dates from 1297, but the lions were only added in 1727 as replacements for ones that were a couple of hundred years older. But oh my goodness don’t they look disgruntled! They certainly want you to think they’ve been oppressed by the massive oak weight of the chair for more than just a couple of centuries.
• The effigy of Eleanor of Castile is a lovely work by William Torel, goldsmith, dating from 1291. Torel made it by casting a bronze figure by the lost-wax technique, then gilding it; the sculpture is noble and magnificent. Torel actually made two – one for the cathedral in Lincoln where Eleanor died, and this one for where she is buried. Along the way, her heartbroken widower Edward I erected Eleanor Crosses where her body rested – you can see a replica of the original at Charing Cross just up the road. Ironically, Edward has no effigy at all – just a plain marble tomb. Torel also made the effigy for Henry III.
• Newton’s tombis a magnificent creation of the Enlightenment to contrast with the medieval work you’ve seen elsewhere. Little boys use the telescope and play with the prisms. Does the globe look a bit strange? That’s because it’s a celestial globe showing the zodiac, not the earth – and a figure of Astronomy sits on top of it
  

  Newton's tomb (image courtesy of Herry)

• In the north aisle, don’t miss the tiny gravestone of Shakespeare’s contemporary Ben Jonson, with its inscription: ‘O rare Ben Jonson’. Its small size is explained by the fact that he was buried standing up – to save paying for a larger space.
• The West Front of the Abbey is one of my favourite London fakes. It’s not medieval at all, even though it looks it. It was in fact designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and Christopher Wren, whose other works are uncompromisingly modern (like St Paul’s Cathedral, for instance). If you want to see a real medieval façade, look at the north entrance, opposite St Margaret’s church, and you’ll see the difference.
• Elizabeth I, if you ask me, got the short straw when they handed out Renaissance art. Her grandfather Henry VII got a magnificent tomb by the Italian, Torrigiano; she got a work by Flemish artist Maximilian Colt which, while majestic, and probably realistic, certainly doesn’t show her at her best. A hook nose, a sour frown and a double chin. She also has to share her grave with her half-sister, Mary I. Since Mary imprisoned Elizabeth and might well have considered having her executed, I don’t think either of them would have been too keen on the tomb-share.
• Much cuter is the monument Colt made for Sophia Rosula Stuart, the baby daughter of James I – a little cradle. He also made the memorial for her sister Mary Stuart, who died at just two and a half. Both of them are in the north aisle of Henry VII’s Chapel.
• Heraldic beasts come in all sizes and shapes – the porcupine at the feet of Lady Frances Sidney is my favourite (in St Paul’s chapel), bristling with real spikes in blue and gold – though the ferocious red lion on the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots runs it close.
• Don’t miss the chapter house, with its single pillar supporting the roof and fine medieval tile pavement. Look particularly at the lovely crisp leaves of the capitals, delicate but decisive carving. This chapter house, incidentally, has a place in the history of English democracy – the first King’s Councils were held here, before moving across the way to the Palace of Westminster
  

  Chapter house (image courtesy of Duncan)

• I was in two minds about whether to mention the Cosmatesque pavement, because it is apparently quite often invisible. It’s highly unusual, because the Cosmati family of masons worked in Rome and southern Italy, and you hardly ever see their marble inlay work anywhere else. Henry III brought the master Odericus from Rome to create this masterpiece – it’s a strictly geometrical pavement, designed around a quincunx – five linked roundels. It bears an inscription which makes it quite clear that it’s a microcosm, a symbolic representation of the universe; weirder and more convoluted than anything you’ll find in the Da Vinci Code (which leaves it out)!
• Look out for the pun in the Islip chapel. Abbot Islip built it as a chantry where prayers would be said for his soul, and he decorated it with his rebus, a play on words – it shows an eye and a ‘slip’, a small twig or branch, giving ‘eye-slip’, his name. But there’s a second one, as well, on the lintel – a little man falling out of a tree – ‘I slip!’ I bet the good abbot did cryptic crosswords.

By the way, please don’t call Westminster Abbey a cathedral. It’s actually a royal peculiar – that is, a place of worship that falls under the monarch’s jurisdiction and doesn’t belong to a diocese, with the status of a collegiate church. It was originally the church of a monastery and was only ever a cathedral for ten years, from 1540 to 1550. If you want to see a cathedral, you’ve got two choices – St Paul’s is the cathedral of the Anglican diocese of London, while a little closer to the Abbey, Westminster Cathedral is the church of the Roman Catholic diocese of Westminster.

If you are planning to visit Westminster Abbey and want a convenient hotel, you may wish to choose from a range of contemporary central London hotels which are only a short tube or taxi ride away.

This post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

A guided tour of Westminster Abbey is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – fields of tulips in Holland is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Baird Glacier

The ice cave

I stood on the deck of the Wilderness Discoverer and watched fellow guests on the Alaska cruise return from their hike to the Baird glacier. I went on a similar hike earlier that day and I was completely blown away by the surreal landscapes. As they boarded the ship, I approached them and queried excitedly, “Did the guide show you the ice cave?”. They looked at me with a puzzled expression. “What ice cave?”, one of them asked. Now it was my turn to look puzzled. I told them about my hike to the glacier and where we stopped to look at a narrow crack in the glacier. The guide explained to us that this was the entrance to a unique ice cave that once formed part of the glacier. As the glacier changed its course through thousands of years, the river that flows under the glacier carved out a massive ice cave. I knew then that I definitely wanted to see the cave. That narrow opening in the ice was not going to deter me.

The 'entrance' to the ice cave

A few of us volunteered to follow our guide into the cave. It was a bit of a squeeze but after several yards, the crack opened into a wider tunnel. With the help of our torches, we could see that the walls were blackish grey with hints of blue. I was glad we attached metal spikes under the soles of our shoes as the floor was solid ice. After several minutes, I noticed an ethereal blue glow at the end of the tunnel not too far away. It was a wondrous sight that made us stop in our tracks for several moments. We continued our trek to the end of the tunnel in total awe. As we neared the end, the glow became more intense and we switched off our torch-lights. The scene at the end of the tunnel was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Before us was a huge blue cave, complete with icy stalactites and stalagmites. An absolutely magical sight!

As I told my story, the guests looked at me in complete bewilderment. I could sense their growing envy, and frustration for not being given this option by their guide. I continued with my story: “Do you remember the first Superman movie? The guide said that the scenes in which Superman was born were filmed right in this cave”. One of the guests started howling with laughter and that set me off too – I couldn’t hold it together anymore.

It took a few moments before everyone realised I’d just told them a tall tale. They burst out laughing and one of them promised to get even one day.

I love making up stories – I probably inherited that trait from my Dad.

Have you ever fooled your travel mates with a fabricated travel tale? Or have you ever been fooled? Please share them in the comments section below.

Look out for Part II of “Tall Tales from Alaska” next week.

Tall tales from Alaska – the ice cave is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – Noordwijk beach sunset is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Lang tengah island

Malaysia is known the world over for its cultural diversity, expansive tropical forests, mouthwatering cuisine and yes, its glorious beaches. I’ve had the privilege of visiting many Malaysian islands to laze on the blinding white sands, swim in the crystal-clear water and say ‘hi’ to the amazing marine life. Malaysia comprises two parts: Peninsular Malaysia (or West Malaysia) which is the southernmost stretch of the Asian continent, and the states of Sabah and Sarawak on the island of Borneo (the world’s third largest island), often referred to collectively as East Malaysia. Though the mainland of both West and East Malaysia have beautiful sandy beaches, the best beaches and coral reefs can be found on the many islands off the coast. The largest islands, Penang and Langkawi, offer a lot more than just beaches. Here’s my list of ten fabulous islands in Malaysia, categorised by (level of) activity.

More than just beaches

1. Penang – my favourite Malaysian island boasts stunning colonial buildings, atmospheric temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site (Georgetown) and some of the best food in the country. The beaches aren’t great but they’re more than compensated by the diverse array of sightseeing options, the food and a wonderful variety of stunning hotels. Read more about things to do in Penang. Search for hotels in Penang.

2. Langkawi – located north of Penang, near the border with Thailand, Langkawi has lovely beaches (including Cenang beach and my favourite, Tanjung Rhu beach), a mountainous interior and gorgeous hotels. There are many seasport options at the main beaches. Further inland, head for the cable-car and Skybridge for stunning views of the island and the Andaman Sea. In addition, Langkawi’s duty-free status means great bargains for popular duty-free items. Search for hotels in Langkawi.

Both Penang and Langkawi have international airports.

Exploring the undersea wonders

3. Redang – Redang island is one of the largest islands off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The beaches are white and sandy and the water is crystal-clear. The island is surrounded by beautiful coral reefs, making it a popular snorkelling/diving destination. There are also several trails that crisscross the island’s jungle interior. In addition, the island is easily accessible from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore due to its airstrip. There are also boat services from Merang on the mainland. Search for hotels in Redang.

4. Perhentian – Perhentian consists of two islands (Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil). Both islands boast stunning sandy, palm-fringed beaches, crystalline water and colourful coral reefs. There are a variety of hotels on the Perhentian islands that cater to different budgets.

Lang tengah island

5. Lang Tengah – situated smack in between Perhentian and Redang islands, Lang Tengah is a true gem. Its small size means there isn’t much to do aside from lazing on one of the stunning beaches or diving into the emerald sea. I experienced my first shark encounters off Lang Tengah so it’s one island I won’t easily forget! Search for hotels in Lang Tengah.

Redang, Perhentian and Lang Tengah islands are located in the northeast corner of Peninsular Malaysia. Redang and Perhentian islands can be accessed by boat from Merang whilst Perhentian islands are reachable by boat from the town of Kuala Besut. The islands are typically closed during the monsoon season (November – February).

6. Sipadan – Sipadan is one of the most celebrated dive sites in the world. The only oceanic island in Malaysia, Sipadan is located off the east coast of Sabah. The island is basically an ancient volcanic cone overgrown by corals. Turtles, hammerhead sharks, barracudas and parrothead fish are just a handful of the many marine species that can be viewed here. Due to its popularity – divers from all around the world visit the island every year – the number of dive groups per day is limited so it’s advisable to book way in advance. Sipadan is accessible by boat from the town of Semporna.

Sipadan

7. Lankayan – this little island in the Sulu Sea, north of the Sabahan town of Sandakan, is a great place to spot turtles and whale sharks (March – May). Its pristine beaches and easy accessibility from Sandakan make it a local favourite.

8. Mantanani – Mantanani is quickly becoming a popular island getaway due to its close proximity from Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah – a speed boat whisks guests to the island in 45 minutes. There are ample snorkelling and diving options – the advanced divers are taken to the aptly named ‘Stingray Avenue’. There’s a simple but very quaint lodge on the island, complete with hammocks and lounge chairs on the beach.

Layang Layang

9. Layang Layang – this atoll, located 300km off the coast of Sabah in the South China Sea, is part of the sprawling Spratley archipelago. The atoll consists of a lodge, a navy base and an airstrip, and some of the best diving spots in Malaysia. Due to its isolation, the marine life is abundant and the corals are in excellent condition. Most divers visit the island to see hammerhead and whale sharks. Layang Layang can be reached by air from Kota Kinabalu.

Sipadan, Lankayan, Mantanani and Layang Layang are situated in Sabah, on Malaysian Borneo. Read more about things to do and see in Sabah. The capital of Sabah, Kota Kinabalu, has an international airport with flights to major cities in Southeast Asia, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea and Japan.

Indulgence

10. Rebak – Rebak is a small, private island that’s part of the Langkawi archipelago. Its seclusion – there’s a single five-star resort on the island managed by the Taj Group – is perfect for those looking for a quiet time. There’s nothing but lush greenery, gorgeous white beaches and swaying palms. Combine that with the luxuries of the five-star Rebak Island Resort and you have the perfect opportunity for plenty of relaxation and indulgence.

View Malaysia islands in a larger map

Ten islands to visit in Malaysia is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Siam Bay beach seen from the jetty

All too quickly and flippantly the word “undiscovered” is attached to the words “Thai island” and the hearts of numerous beach-loving travellers start beating a little quicker. For this reason I’d quickly like to state that Ko Racha Yai, a small island found 12 miles off the southeast coast of Phuket, is not at all undiscovered – the island’s persistently busy main beach, Siam Bay is testament to this – yet for the beauty it holds it certainly warrants the terms “lesser known” and “well kept secret” and with that a few skipped heartbeats.

I stumbled across Ko Racha and the five star resort The Racha, which dominates the Siam Bay side of the island, as I researched luxury hotels near Phuket for my boyfriend’s birthday. He had two requests; a little extravagance and a lot of clear blue water and stark white sand. Thankfully Ko Racha catered for the latter exceptionally well thanks to its lone position out in the middle of the Andaman Sea. In fact, in the six weeks we beach and island hopped around Thailand, this was far and away the whitest, softest sand we dug our toes in to and the warmest, clearest water we bathed in. As for the luxury the birthday boy was after? It has to be said that The Racha provided more than a little.

The luxuries of The Racha

The Racha itself is a huge resort climbing up away from the public beach most of the day-tripping tourists from Phuket land and stay. Siam Bay is therefore somewhat sadly overcrowded with long, military precise lines of parasols and loungers, the owners of which vie for business in an impressive number of languages as the tourists arrive, all slightly in awe of the beach.

Guests of The Racha can enjoy views over these parasols from their private beachfront loungers but if the beach traffic is still too much then retreating into the resort, which is a hillside maze of bright white buildings and bungalows, there are also two impressive swimming pools to take a quick or longer dip in.

The Racha pool

you are invited to choose a scent for the room’s toiletries and candles

The reasons why The Racha earned its five star status can be found in the accommodation, which ranges from Deluxe Villas to Private Pool Villas and The Lighthouse, a one-off four bedroom, five-storey lighthouse grandly overlooking the rest of the resort, the beach and the island. Though sitting at the bottom of the range, the Deluxe Villas are far from basic with more space and comfort than most London studio flats. Every morning, we had the tough decision of whether to use the indoor or the outdoor shower and thanks to a misunderstanding when we checked in a beautiful petal filled, candle lit bath had already been run for us “honeymooners”. There were also a number of extras thrown in which set The Racha apart: you are invited to choose a scent for the room’s toiletries and candles, and we were greeted by a complimentary bottle of (surprisingly good) wine, received fresh fruit every day and enjoyed a nightly turn down service complete with personal notes and thoughtful quotes.

Clockwise from top left: petal-filled bath, outdoor shower, choose your scent, bedside, wine & fruit welcome.

Exploring Ko Racha – things to do and see

The Racha also provides complimentary use of a variety of sports equipment and we took full advantage of this by going on daily mountain bike excursions to explore the other side of the island to the slightly quieter but longer beach of Ter Bay. As well as hosting the same white sand and clear blue seas, there are more accommodation options for varying budgets here. It is very easy to go off the beaten track on Ko Racha as the island’s main road is just that; an only partially concreted dirt track. There is a jungle trek, which takes you up and around one peninsula of the island, to satisfy any adrenaline junkies on wheels or on foot.

Main road - Ko Racha

Our favourite activity on Ko Racha, by far, was snorkeling. Thanks to the crystal blue waters and rocky sides to the bay the marine life we saw while snorkeling was astonishingly close and colourful. It bettered some of the deepwater scuba dives we’ve done in Thailand and had we had more time, we would have done some diving, which is also a popular activity on the island.

Siam Bay

By night we indulged in the dining that was on offer at The Racha’s three restaurants, which were seafood, Western and Asian focused respectively, before sipping huge holiday style cocktails as we listened to the waves crashing in the dark at the beachfront bar. Food and drink wasn’t cheap at The Racha (main dishes were priced from about £20 upwards) but it was of a high standard and served with the typically warm Thai smiles, which greeted us throughout the resort. The breakfast that is included in the room rate is certainly worth getting up and walking downhill for, though sitting outside overlooking the beach came with unexpected entertainment as Indian Minor birds swooped in to hungrily clean unattended plates or even your own when your back was turned.

Ko Racha is a small island and the majority of visitors don’t stay on the island, so it becomes eerily quiet at night. Though mountain biking, walking, kayaking, snorkeling and quad-biking are available from The Racha (and possibly other hotels), the island isn’t vast and there are only so many corners and beaches to explore. Aside from maybe only a couple of handfuls of other places to stay, there are even fewer places to eat or drink so this is not an island for somebody looking for an extended stay packed with activity and diversity by both day and night. Yet for those of you who are searching for little more than the perfect beach, and don’t mind sharing it with others, Ko Racha is the ideal destination. Furthermore if you’d like to experience this in luxury The Racha is the only place to stay.

Ko Racha is a 40 minute speed boat ride from Chalong Pier, Phuket.

About this week’s guest writer
Bird is a Londoner turned wanderer who blogs about her travels at As The Bird Flies. After many years of squeezing in short trips around her City job and secret life as a hyperlocal London blogger (Go Shepherd’s Bush!), she waved goodbye to it all in October 2011 to take the scenic route through Southeast Asia to Australia to meet her Australian boyfriend’s mother for Christmas. “As the Bird flies…” documents Bird’s travels past, present and future and aims to provide personal insight as well as useful information about the places she goes and the things she does. Bird is currently in Sydney recovering from the aforementioned meeting with the in-laws and is planning where to fly to next…

Follow Bird on Twitter.

The luxuries of dreamy Ko Racha is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Arrival in Vancouver

The Vancouver skyline loomed large in the distance as I gazed out the window. My journey on board the Rocky Mountaineer train from Jasper was nearing its end. As the wheels of the train clanged and hissed on the approach into Vancouver station, my thoughts drifted to my experience on board over the past two days. The first word that came to mind was ‘epic’. I thought about the 900km-journey across the Canadian Rockies and along the Fraser River and I nodded silently. Yes, ‘epic’ was the perfect adjective.

There are many train journeys around the world that can be considered epic. The Trans-Siberian, the Blue Train, the Orient Express and the El Transcantabrico are famous examples. What makes the Rocky Mountaineer epic is the seamless combination of spectacular scenery with excellent service, comfort and mouthwatering cuisine. Delve deeper into the history of the Canadian railways, the ingenuity of the engineers who designed the routes and the livelihoods of the people who built the tracks, and the word ‘epic’ crops up again.

My journey on the Rocky Mountaineer began in the lovely town of Jasper. The train pulled into the station in the wee hours of the morning. It was cold and drizzly but even that failed to dampen the spirit of the passengers who crowded the platform. The excitement was almost tangible as the train crew opened the doors and rolled out the carpets.

The train rolls into Jasper station at dawn

The Rocky Mountaineer has three levels of service: Red Leaf, Silver Leaf and Gold Leaf. I was invited to experience the luxurious Gold Leaf service which included a plush seat in the double-level, glass-domed coach and gourmet meals served in the chic dining room.

Welcome aboard!

I scrambled onto the train and up the spiral staircase to the upper level in great anticipation to find a spacious coach with massive dome windows. The seats were large, comfortable and reclinable. Refreshments were served right after everyone was settled in their seats and this was followed by a safety demonstration.

Safety first!

Bewildering scenery in the Canadian Rockies

The train pulled out from the station just as the sun’s rays illuminated the mountain tops. As the sun rose higher, the fall colours of the forests we passed came to life. The tracks led us past gushing rivers, snowcapped peaks, lush green pastures and mile after mile of gorgeous trees. The scenery was simply bewildering.

The sun illuminated the magnificent fall colours

We passed towering trees and mountains

As we passed Mt. Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, the train slowed down, allowing passengers to make their way to the open observation area at the rear of the coach to take some pictures – I spent a lot of my time here, enjoying the cold wind in my face and the sounds of the train, and immersing myself in the scenery.

The train slowed down for amazing views of Mt. Robson

Gourmet cuisine on board

We were invited to the cosy dining room for our meals. The crew greeted us with a warm smile and presented us a menu at each meal. The first thing that caught my eye was the chef’s focus on showcasing local ingredients from Alberta and British Columbia. Top marks for that! The second thing: the refinement and blending of these local ingredients by the Executive Chef Frédéric Couton to create attractive meals that easily fit the gourmet bill. Needless to say, the meals, from the scrumptious scrambled eggs with smoked steel head salmon to the gorgeous slow-cooked Alberta short ribs, were a true delight. Combine that with the generous servings of premier Canadian wines and the panoramic vistas and what you get is an epic train ride!

Gorgeous wines and stunning vistas!

Service with a big smile

Scrumptious cuisine

Overnight accommodation

The Gold Leaf service also includes an overnight stay in Kamloops or Quesnel in a deluxe hotel (other hotels are arranged for the Silver Leaf and Red Leaf service levels). There are no sleeping facilities on board so everyone disembarks for a one night stay in a hotel. I saw this as a less-appealing factor of the Rocky Mountaineer – I personally prefer the romance of sleeping in my own cabin in a luxury train. However, the Rocky Mountaineer staff ensured a smooth passage for all guests from the train to the hotels and back to the train the following morning. Gold Leaf guests didn’t have to lift a finger – my bag stood there waiting for me when I entered my room.

We were greeted by a dramatic sunset as we arrived in the desert town of Kamloops – yes, you read it right! Kamloops is a town in the middle of a stunning desert region. As we departed the following morning, I set aside my romantic ideas and appreciated the fact that I had an evening to stretch my legs and see a bit of the town. On another note, if you’re looking for a great place for cocktails and dinner, head over to Hoodoos at the Sun Rivers golf resort. I had some of the best tortilla chips (ever) paired with a gorgeous crab-artichoke-spinach dip, and the steak was superb!

A dramatic sunset in Kamloops, British Columbia

A change of scenery

I thought, rather naïvely, that the most spectacular scenery was behind us (on our passage across the Rockies) but as we left Kamloops, I found myself quickly doubting that idea. The scenery was very different but no less spectacular. Whereas the first day through the Rockies was full of lush greenery, aquamarine lakes and stunning peaks, the second day was full of dramatic canyons and barren, shrubby landscapes.

Chugging along the Thomson River

The route took us along the emerald waters of the Thomson River. The highlight of this stretch was without any doubt the passage through the Avalanche Alley.

The tunnels of Avalanche Alley

The train slowed down at the confluence of the Thomson and the Fraser rivers, providing us with a great view of the merging colours of the rivers: the emerald Thomson River and the greyish brown Fraser River.

The confluence of the Thomson and Fraser Rivers

From this point, we followed the course of the Fraser River, crossing the river at one point before continuing towards the forest-clad slopes of the Coastal Mountains and leaving the arid Thomson River basin behind us.

Crossing the Fraser River

As I feasted on yet another superb meal (those tiger prawns in a bouillabaisse broth were sublime!), I noticed the scenery becoming greener and the fall colours we’d seen in the Rockies the day before reappear, a sure sign that we were nearing the wet, Pacific coast.

A sublime tiger prawn lunch...

...paired with gorgeous vino served with grace...

...and stunning views of the Fraser River!

The train jerked to a stop, catapulting my thoughts back to the present. Outside, a sign read “Welcome to Vancouver“. I grabbed my bag and slowly made my way down to the platform, savouring my last moments on the Rocky Mountaineer. I paused to thank the crew for the excellent service and for taking such great care of me. I turned around for one last look at the gleaming train. Yes, ‘epic’ it certainly was!

Note: a big thank you goes to the Rocky Mountaineer for your wonderful hospitality. Though I was an invited guest on board, all views are seriously mine.

Epic train journey on the Rocky Mountaineer is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The mountains and the town of Madaba on the East Bank of the Dead Sea.

The plane continued its course across the northern flank of the Dead Sea. I spotted the Mövenpick Dead Sea Resort where I’d stayed and enjoyed the wonders of floating in the Dead Sea.

Flying acros the Dead Sea

A few moments later, the plane crossed into the airspace of the West Bank, passing Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

Aerial views of the West Bank

This could Jerusalem though I'm not entirely sure

The Mediterranean coast appeared soon enough, reminding me how narrow Israel is (the country is slightly more than 100km wide). We flew right above the international airport of Tel Aviv before passing the city, Jaffa and its beaches.

The airport and suburbs of Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv and Old Jaffa

Needless to say, the views were spectacular!

Plane views: Dead Sea and Israel is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Stargazing in the Serengeti

When people book a luxury safari holiday, game drives and wildlife are the first activities that spring to mind. These are definitely some of the essential activities to enjoy during the daylight hours, but an activity that has become popular in the evenings for those on a Tanzania safari at the luxury tented camp Sanctuary Kusini, and others in the Serengeti, is stargazing. With the wide open plains, mild evenings, vast expanses of night sky and no air or light pollution, what better place to look up into the African night sky and see the constellations that you learned about in school – often difficult to spot at home in cityscapes.

Stargazing tips

If you are interested in stargazing during your luxury safari, then remember these tips:

1. Stargazing is at its best during the new moon period, as this is when the sky is darkest and the most stars are visible.

2. Stargazing is easiest when there is little or no cloud cover, so choose your evening carefully.

The guide points out constellations with a laser pen

3. To enhance the stargazing experience on your luxury safari, take your iPad or laptop with you and download one of the many apps that help you identify the constellations that change throughout the year. The guides at Sanctuary Kusini recommend the app STELLERIUM for their guests on a Tanzania safari as this is a free download, is easy to use and has great information about the stars. This programme allows those staying at the camp to have even more background information on the stars they are seeing during the nightly ‘cosmic safari’ activity. Guests relax on comfortable cushions on top of the large granite rock just near the mess tent of the camp, while guides point out the constellations using a green laser pointer. This is the highest point in the region so the location offers 360 degree views of the Serengeti as the sun sets, followed by uninterrupted views of the night sky.

Identify the constellations

Once you have followed the tips above, the next thing is to identify which constellations will be visible during a Tanzania safari and do a little reading on the story behind these constellations – as knowing the tales makes spotting them that little bit easier.

Full sky view of the constellations (image courtsey of Stellerium)

Those constellations which are easiest to see in this part of the world include:

Scorpio and Orion – Orion was a great hunter and very boastful of his abilities. One day he boasted that if he wanted to, he could kill all the animals on Earth. This upset Gaea, the earth goddess, and she sent the scorpion to sting and kill Orion. Both Orion and the scorpion were put in the night sky as a reminder but it is said Orion was afraid of the scorpion and fled away from it which is why they are always 180° apart in the night sky.

Cygnus the Swan – It is said the God Zeus took the form of the swan to seduce the goddess Nemesis. As he was successful he placed the form of the swan in the stars.

Canis Major – A magical dog that was destined never to give up a chase. He was eventually owned by Cephalus, a hero, who set the dog against the Teumussian fox (Canis Minor), a giant fox that was ravaging the countryside. The fox also had a destiny, never to get caught. To resolve the conflicting fates of the two animals, Zeus placed them in the night sky where they can continue their chase for all eternity. Canis Major is also known as Orion’s hunting dog, chasing the hare, Lepus.

Taurus the Bull – He heads up the chase in the night sky. Orion is hunting him with his dog Canis Major.

These are spread out over the full calendar year but you’re bound to be able to see at least one of them during your stargazing experience.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with  Sanctuary Retreats.

Stargazing in the Serengeti is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Me time at the Dead Sea

Spending time on me

Immerse yourself in the view!

I strongly believe that in order to be the best person we can possibly be for our families, friends and communities, we need to take care of ourselves first. This entails feeling good about ourselves both mentally and physically. Allotting time to the care of our personal well-being is the key to achieving a healthy balance in our often busy lives. We can use this time to do whatever we want or nothing at all. It sounds wonderful yet, funnily enough, I know many people who simply fret the idea of spending a day or more with nothing on the agenda and certainly without a mobile device. “Why throw yourself into a void when time is so precious?” is a remark I once heard.

So, if you feel you’ve been neglecting yourself lately, here’s the challenge for 2012: allocate sufficient me time, unplug and be creative in how you use that time to enjoy yourself. Indulge yourself in a spa or a day of nothingness on a beach, strike up a conversation with someone you see often but have never chatted with, have a meal at your favourite restaurant and savour each mouthful just a tad longer, meditate on a mountain peak or embark on a solo trip. Tickle your senses. Be adventurous. It’s up to you.

And when you return, I’d love to know what you did, what it felt like and if you learned something new about yourself during your me time – that goes for the professional ‘me-timers’ out there too – so I can learn from you. Feel free to leave a comment below or email me.

Best wishes for a happy and healthy 2012 … and remember

go explore. experience. and be inspired.

AJ8VM3CWJQ9S

Velvet Escape challenge 2012 is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

A very happy me at El Celler de Can Roca (image courtesy of John O'Nolan)

2011 was a year full of incredible travel experiences. When I look back, my mind automatically drifts to the numerous travel moments which amazed or inspired me, and the many new friends I made. Waking up amidst a sea of icebergs in Alaska, witnessing a romantic moment in Petra, searching for the best viewpoints in Hong Kong, skydiving in Costa Brava, tucking into a divine lunch at El Celler de Can Roca and meeting the master chef Ferran Adriá at El Bulli were some of the most memorable travel experiences in my life.

I feel very privileged to have had the opportunity to enjoy and share these moments. When I started travel blogging in 2009, little did I know that I would one day experience things which I could previously only dream about. My passion has become a career but I realise only too well that it would not have been possible without the unwavering support of my family, friends and travel blogging colleagues. As I sit here typing this, I can’t help but feel proud of my achievements so far and a great sense of gratitude for the encouragement and help I’ve received. My passion for travel is the driving force behind Velvet Escape but every so often, the words of a reader propels me further:

Dear Keith,

I am writing this email, to say i am a big fan of your travel blog. When i read your “Travelations” story i was so fascinated by your big leap of changing career and following your dreams. Since then i am reading your Velvetescape blog on a regular basis on Facebook as well.
Thank you for such an inspiring story! Love it.
Happy New Year and that 2012 has more stories to follow.
Best,
Grace

A huge THANK YOU goes to my family, friends and last but not least, my readers. I wish you a very happy, healthy and successful 2012.

I look forward to continuing this amazing journey in the new year, one step at a time, and fulfilling more of my dreams and sharing them with you. I leave you with one of my favourite travel quotes and my favourite 2011 photo that aptly portrays Lao Tzu’s wise words.

A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step – Lao Tzu

A wanderer - on the peak of the Zugspitze mountain at sunrise

 go explore. experience. and be inspired.

Looking back, moving forward is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Countryside in Cornwall (image courtesy of Nellie Windmill)

When it comes to food it’s probably fair to say that we’d associate Cornwall with its famous crimped pasty, clotted cream ices dripping down a cone, waist busting cream teas and pilchards from Newlyn. All of this is indeed true, and wonderful (and not so wonderful) examples of the Cornish classics that can be found all round this beautiful peninsula county. However, in recent years a food renaissance has been quietly building in Cornwall with quality eateries opening up all over the Duchy.

Rick Stein & the Cornish foodie revolution

One of the names that inevitably comes to mind when talking about this change in the perception of Cornwall as a food destination is Rick Stein. Of course Rick Stein is not the be all and end all of this foodie revolution and there are many that would argue that there are plenty of local chefs who have been doing great things with local ingredients for years. But it’s fair to say it’s taken a couple of high profile TV chefs to shine the gourmand’s spotlight on Cornwall, giving other excellent chefs and eating establishments the exposure they deserve and driving standards up across the county.

Surrounded by sea on three sides it’s unsurprising that many of the best places to eat centre around fish and seafood but look around and there are some real gems that might just take you by surprise. We’ve had the pleasure of eating at a number of incredible Cornish restaurants and with a little help from our friend Lee Trewhela, Arts and Leisure Editor at the West Briton, Cornish Guardian and Cornishman, we’ve put together a smorgasbord of our ten favourite eating places in Cornwall.

The Ultimate Foodies Guide to Cornwall

Serving modern European and excelling in fish dishes, Restaurant Nathan Outlaw at the St Enodoc Hotel, Rock is the only 2 Michelin Star restaurant in Cornwall and deservedly so. Nathan Outlaw is one the UK’s top chefs and currently runs two restaurants at the St Enodoc Hotel, both of which offer simple and contemporary dishes centred around exquisite fish and seafood dishes. For the full, formal 2 Michelin starred experience then booking early at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw is a must. The set tasting menu changes frequently and is driven by locally caught seafood and beautiful Cornish produce. It’s also worth splashing out and taking the wine flight with the tasting menu as the sommelier Damon always marries the flavours perfectly and has a relaxed, engaging way of introducing the wines at table so that non wine buffs can understand his thinking behind the pairings. With a tasting menu at £75 and the wine flight at £65 for a 2 Michelin star experience it really is incredible value for money.

No. 6 Padstow

Another restaurant nearby that prides itself in creating unpretentious dishes using the best in local produce and serving up food that makes you smile is Paul Ainsworth at No 6 in Padstow. Alongside the great food is an admirable philosophy that fine dining should be available to everyone – they welcome children and do not have a dress code, which definitely gives it a friendly, relaxed feel. Set in a Georgian townhouse with contemporary décor this is a small restaurant that offers fantastic value for money. The bread here is a particular speciality as is the use of humble ingredients, such as ox cheek, lambs liver, and mackerel, with the kitchen employing modern cooking techniques that really unlock their great flavours and textures. Starters come in at around £10, mains £20 and desserts £8. The express lunch menu is excellent value for money with two courses for £13, three courses for £17 or three courses and wine flight at £35. Big things are expected of Paul, who has also taken over Rojano’s In The Square, a great Italian in the heart of Padstow.

The first thing to note about The Driftwood at Portscatho is its dramatic cliff-top location on the Roseland Peninsula, with breath taking views over Gerrans Bay… and then there’s the incredible food. Head Chef Chris Eden, who is a bonafide Cornishman, has rightly received a Michelin Star and is now the only other current restaurant in Cornwall to hold one alongside Nathan Outlaw. Chris is a quite brilliant chef who is passionate about locally-sourced food. All the wonderful fish and shellfish is sourced from Cornish waters and the meat is locally reared – the boeuf en daube is melt-in-the-mouth magnificence personified. Expect dishes such as steamed brill, sea beet, spaghetti and truffle sabayon or John Dory with leeks and Jerusalem artichoke purée followed by prune and Armagnac soufflé with Earl Grey ice cream. It’s great to see that without compromising on style and a relaxed atmosphere children get the same quality treatment and food as the adults and early suppers can be prepared for them.

Seafood at Barclay House

Another modern British restaurant worth a mention is Barclay House at Looe where quiet wonders are being served up by head chef Benjamin Palmer who has just been awarded ‘Chef of the Year 2011′ by Cornwall Life magazine. Barclay House is set up on the hillside overlooking the fishing harbour and has also picked up a Taste of the West Gold Award and South West Restaurant of the Year 2010 for its simple, inspiring dishes created using local produce. Value for money here is exceptional with a six course taster menu offering Looe scallops, local venison loin and grilled lemon sole for only £35. Don’t be fooled by the simple menu; the taste and presentation elevates these humble sounding dishes to another level.

A newbie on the Cornish foodie scene is Austell’s at Carlyon Bay. The food is cleverly prepared and beautifully presented European bistro food and the atmosphere in the restaurant is relaxed and informal. The kitchen opens onto the restaurant so you can see the chefs at work which is always a treat. The food itself is creative and imaginative with some risk taking flavour combinations made from fresh local ingredients where ever possible. Quail consommé and dumplings with Scotch egg, celeriac remoulade and hazelnut mayonnaise; fillet of line caught mackerel warm potato salad, slow roasted tomatoes, and basil oil; dark chocolate crème brûlée with sour cherry compote, honeycomb and passion fruit sorbet to name but a few of the delectable delights on the menu. The home baked poppy seed bread is also really rather special and at £27.50 for 2 courses or £32.50 for 3 courses this new restaurant is on a par with some top restaurants but at a fraction of the cost.

The Wheelhouse

One Cornish eatery that is practically impossible to get a table at is The Wheelhouse in Falmouth. Tucked down a tiny slip of an alleyway off Church Street (the main shopping drag) this modest, shellfish joint has been open since late 2009 and has racked up a plethora of rave reviews. The menu is wonderfully simple: mussels, scallops, crab or prawns, lobster and native oysters. Dishes are designed to share; mussels for two come in at £11 and six succulent scallops for £9. To prevent ruining your clothes you get a fetching little apron and a set of crackers with the inevitable mess-making whole crab. The fish is all Cornish, harbour fresh and served in clam like metal dishes with a side of skinny chips, salad and chive butter. The décor is really informal with stripped wood floors, junk shop furniture, candles and fairy lights. All in all a really delightful experience but you absolutely must book in advance, especially if you fancy one of their now famous paella nights which get booked up months in advance.

Porthminster Beach Café in St Ives is already a favourite with the national media and visiting arty types and it’s no surprise as its beach location is second to none with views across St Ives Bay to the Tate Modern. With such a glorious outlook, reasonable prices and informal atmosphere seafood has never tasted so good. Known for its Mediterranean and Asian seafood cuisine some of the produce used in the preparation of the dishes comes direct from the cafe’s garden and the nearby coastal path – look out for the wild mustard, penny wort, nettles, raspberries, wild sorrel and rock samphire to name a few. The café is also open daily for homemade patisserie and excellent coffee from the St Ives Small Batch Coffee Roasting Company.

Gurnard's Head

Possibly the best dining pub in Cornwall, the Gurnard’s Head at Zennor is a firm favourite with us. The location is wonderful, set on a remote bend on the coastal road between Zennor and St Just it feels as though you are stepping into a Poldark novel, especially on a blowy autumn evening. The pub is warm and welcoming with a log fire and well stocked bar boasting some excellent ales, whiskeys, sherries and wines. To the other side of the entrance is the equally warm and comfortable dining area bathed in an atmospheric low light that lends itself to a relaxed and intimate dining experience. As you would expect most of the produce is locally sourced and the food is hearty, refined and packed full of flavour. The short, fresh and seasonal menu changes every day depending on what is brought to the back door or what the chefs feel is at its seasonal best. In Winter you might get Fish Soup with Rouille or in summer, a Ceviche of Sea Bass alongside foraged leaf salads. On colder days you can finish off your meal curled up on a sofa with a sherry or if the summer sun is high in the sky you can sit out in the large garden. With prices ranging from £6.50 for a starter and £12.50-£16.50 for a main The Gurnard’s Head is in our estimation the best value eatery in Cornwall.

It used to be that finding a good curry in Cornwall was an impossible feat… unless you knew about Yak and Yeti in Truro. Thanks to this fantastic restaurant it is possible to sample delicious, flavourful and authentic Nepalese dishes in Cornwall, served up in a friendly environment that’s fast getting a reputation as the best of its kind in the county. They also serve a range of recognisable and excellent Indian dishes but it is the Nepalese dishes that are clearly the star here. The Gurkhali Chicken marinated in a delicately spiced sauce of tomatoes, butter, fresh green chillis, fragrant spices and cooked in a tandoori oven is to die for, as is the chef’s Babari Lamb cooked in a green masala sauce of coriander, mint, green chillies, curry leaves and spices. Delicious and hot! The staff are incredibly friendly, attentive without being overbearing and are more than happy to explain the dishes. There’s a secluded garden which is great to eat in during the summer months.

Cornish pasty (image courtesy of Hammer)

Last but not least we must save a mention for the humble Cornish pasty. With so many oggy makers around the county it’s hard to pick out the best but Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe edges ahead. The Sarah in the shop’s name has now retired after more than 20 years but daughter Lucy Taylor has kept it in the family and continues to run the bakery. They turn out deliciously fattening oven-fresh pies and pasties, packed with good quality ingredients, deep flavour. They also do veggie pasties such as spiced chick-pea and lentil, gluten-free, lamb and a breakfast pasty stuffed with bacon, sausage, egg, bean and mushroom. But it’s the traditional pasties the give Sarah’s its high reputation. The pasties are made with juicy chunks of Cornish beef skirt, a bit of peppery swede, wrapped in a rich lardy pastry with a side crimp and come in small, medium and large. For the ultimate taste eat on the beach out of a paper bag, but mind the seagulls!

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious food there’s nothing better than retiring to bed in one of the delightful holiday lodges in Cornwall and dreaming about your next meal.

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with Hoburne holiday lodges.

Culinary guide to Cornwall is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

In search of a Velvet Escape

What’s a Velvet Escape? Many people have asked me this question. To me, a Velvet Escape is about getting away from our daily routines & exploring, being adventurous, reflecting & doing it in style. It could be a moment of solitude or one that jolts your senses. Indulging in the culinary magic of a Michelin-star restaurant or a roadside food stall. Being pampered in a luxurious spa or soaking in a hot-tub. Falling asleep in a heavenly bed in a five-star hotel or on a mat under the star-studded sky. A Velvet Escape is all about exploring the world, immersing ourselves in the experience and being inspired by it.

As 2011 winds to an end, I thought it would be a good idea to ask other travel bloggers to share their favourite Velvet Escapes. Here’s a selection of them:

Blissing Out in the Banyan Tree, Seychelles
from Inside the Travel Lab

Abi finds a blissful Velvet Escape in the Seychelles:

Banyan Tree Spa view. Image courtesy of Inside the Travel Lab

“Picture this: a beach of white sand that curves to clasp the Indian Ocean. Palm trees fluttering at the edges of your vision. The crash and sigh of the waves in the distance. I open my eyes and that’s what I see. I open my ears and that’s what I hear.

My senses breathe in amber incense, hot ginger and tropical forest air. I’m standing in the spa at the Banyan Tree, Seychelles and I’m blissing out.”

Liechtenstein castle. Image courtesy of Adventurous Kate

Liechtenstein – the strange and beautiful
from Adventurous Kate

Kate finds her Velvet Escape in Liechtenstein. From picnics with the royal family to discovering creepy art, Kate takes us on a journey through this intriguing principality.

Sex on the Dancefloor or Just a Flirtatious Tango
from Alex Berger

The tango as the ultimate Velvet Escape? Alex delves into the Buenos Aires tango scene and after a few bumps, finds himself seduced by its charm.

BienenAlm Luxury Chalet
from My Postcard From

Paul defines his Velvet Escape as a quaint alpine chalet in Austria, complete with a hot tub, marshmallows on a log fire and stunning views.

Skydive. Image courtesy of Budget Traveller

I Nearly Died and Went to Heaven
from Budget Traveller

Kash experiences a thrilling Velvet Escape in the Costa Brava, involving a skydive, a Bollywood actor/director and a 15-course lunch!

Jacuzzi in the Jungle
from Lash World Tour

Lash teaches us a simple way to find our own Velvet Escape, such as this jacuzzi in the jungles of Bali.

Sachuest Beach: Newport’s Second Beach is First Rate
from Travelogged

Liz explores Newport’s beaches and discovers this gem.

Puna. Image courtesy of Otts World

Big Island Road Trip – Puna
from Ottsworld Travel Experiences

Sherry goes on a road trip in Hawaii and finds the perfect ingredients for a Velvet Escape:

“The trees look as if they have plotted a slow attack to take over the road. Vines hang down trying to slyly block my way and hinder my vision. The road isn’t straight nor does it have any defined shoulders or boundaries. The asphalt is laid around each tree trunk making the road look like a frayed ribbon blowing in the wind.

The drive around the Puna region of the Big Island is what Sunday drives are made of; curves, views, and solitude all requiring you to slow down and enjoy each minute ticking away in the day.”

Big Sur – relax and rejuvenate at Post Ranch Inn
from Santa Fe Travelers

Billie & Steve travel to Big Sur, California, and discover majestic natural beauty and a rustic getaway.

How Canadians Like Their Coffee
from The Travelling Editor

Dylan takes us on a splendorous coffee-infused journey across Canada.

Brela, Croatia. Image courtesy of D Travels Round

Escape of the week – Brela, Croatia
from DTravelsRound

Diana describes her Velvet Escape as a little town in Croatia:

“It’s no secret I love Croatia. It is what sparked my blog, it is what sparked my desire to quit my job and head out to explore more of the world. When I booked my long-term travel, I knew I wanted Croatia to be where I would end my trip. There is something magical about the country — the way the water is that perfect cerulean blue and the way the trees are neon green.

Yes, I love Croatia with all of my heart.”

A big THANK YOU goes to the travel bloggers who shared their posts.

Read other Velvet Escape travel tips by guest writers from around the world.

Velvet Escapes from around the web in 2011 is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The guide held up one of the smaller rays as I looked on

Velvet moments: travel photo – swimming with rays in Bora Bora is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Image courtsey of Dennis Messie

Some people feel that basic fuel is the only thing necessary to propel themselves down the slopes of Europe’s finest ski resorts. Fortunately there are enough of us about who want something a bit more special. As such there is a large market for fine dining at altitude. Europe is blessed with some of the best skiing in the world, and the slopes have the cuisine to match.

Les fermes de Marie

Les fermes de Marie (image courtesy of pr1001)

Megève is an idyllic French village which sits in the shadow of the awesome Mont Blanc. As with most French ski resorts, there are plenty of slope side restaurants where you can get a good simple saussise au frites, but for those looking for something a little more self indulgent, there is Les fermes de Marie. The Sibuet family has been providing fantastic holidays with some of the finest food available in the Alps for years. Today they employ Christophe Côte as their head chef, and he has been able to maintain their exceptional cuisine through the use of local produce alongside his modern cooking methods. Dishes such as the mouth watering oven roasted beef fillet topped with a rustic ragout of Morel mushrooms exhibits flair alongside an ability to replicate traditional regional dishes.

Les fermes de Marie delivers a wonderfully varied menu of fairly traditional French fare, with a welcome modern twist. Thanks to a laid back atmosphere the dress code is relaxed, which means you can come straight off the slopes in your ski jackets and salopettes and fill up with some truly fine food!

La Maison Pic

Dining with Anne-Sophie Pic (image courtesy of vincent)

If you don’t mind heading out of the mountains for the evening, then La Maison Pic has to be worth a trip. Situated approximately 60 miles from Grenoble, this three Michelin starred restaurant is worth driving for. Chef Anne-Sophie Pic is the first woman to be awarded three of the famous French stars in 56 years, which should tell you just how good this restaurant is. Expect attention to detail and a subtlety of flavour that will leave you in awe of this groundbreaking chef.

Le 1947 at The Cheval Blanc

Heading back into the French Alps, the prestigious 1947 at The Cheval Blanc, named after the finest year of the famous Bordeaux first growth, offers an incredible fine dining experience in Courchevel. The award winning Chef Yannick Alleno presides over a wonderfully diverse menu which will beguile all those who can stretch to the $95 set menu and beyond.

C21 at Champery

c21 Champery (image courtesy of gourmet classic)

A mere hop, ski and a jump over the border from France takes you to Switzerland, and into some wonderful skiing territory. Satisfyingly, there is no need to lower your expectations when it comes to the food either. The jaw droppingly beautiful village of Champery is home to C21, a wonderfully modern restaurant where molecular cuisine is the order of the day. Combining ingredients previously untried by most, Chef Denis Martin creates dishes which leave you speechless. The Cauliflower pannacotta with Gruyere cheese, Bellota ham and truffle oil is a surprise success of epic proportions.

Add to the ultra modern cuisine an extensive Malt list and a wine list that has been awarded a Michelin Grappe, and you have what is without doubt one of the finest restaurants in the whole of Switzerland.

Stube at Wulfenia Hotel

Wulfenia Stube (image courtesy of derskiguide)

Austria is not a country normally known for its haute cuisine, but the Austrian Alps are an exception. With great snow records, Austria attracts a wide spread of skiers and there is clearly a market for fine dining given the amount of excellent restaurants that can be found lining the slopes!

Top of the pile must be the Stube, situated in The Wulfenia Hotel at the Nassfeld ski resort. This is the highest two star Michelin restaurant in Austria, and is worth the climb for anyone interested in gourmet eating! With an excellently priced $110 taster menu, and a wonderful wine list extending to over 900 different bottles, this is a place to come back to time and time again. The restaurant is run by the well known Arnold Pucher, who has been awarded 94 points in the A la carte 2012th.

Skiing and eating should go hand in hand. Europe’s ski resorts are littered with fine dining, and you will be particularly spoilt for choice when in the Alps. If you are a gourmand on the slopes, then you might just want to stay in the mountains forever!

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Ellis Brigham.

A gourmand on the slopes is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Jordan – the name itself conjures images of breathtaking desert landscapes, ancient cities and Biblical scenes. Located in the heart of the Middle East, this desert kingdom has a history that dates back to the times when the prophets walked the earth, and ancient empires ruled vast swathes of Asia, Europe and northern Africa. Present-day Jordan straddles the Fertile Crescent, an area that is widely known as the cradle of modern civilisation, and was ruled through the ages by a succession of empires.

A bucket of Dead Sea mud, afloat and enjoying the sunset. Magical!

I visited Jordan in October and I was simply blown away by the spectacular nature, impressive historic sites, the wonderful food and the lovely people. Yes, Jordan is a safe destination – I visited bustling markets and the busiest tourist attractions and not once did I feel unsafe, nor did I feel harassed by vendors.

What I did feel was the warm hospitality of the Jordanians; I was never far from a smile, a kind offer of tea or coffee and food (lots of it!). My trip started with a warm welcome in Amman. A few days later, I found myself in the simply enchanting Ma’in hot springs. The magical moments then piled up: a romantic experience in Petra, a cooking course in Petra, a mind-blowing hot-air balloon flight over the Wadi Rum desert and an equally amazing sunset experience at the Dead Sea. After a week in Jordan and having some of the most unforgettable experiences in my life, I was totally convinced of the excellent and unique array of attractions and experiences that Jordan has to offer.

Join us for #GoJordan on Twitter

Join us on twitter at #GoJordan

Jordan is my Featured Destination this month. I have collaborated with seven other bloggers who have published numerous posts on Jordan and we will be featuring our posts throughout the next two days (15-16 December 2011) on Twitter and facebook. The participating bloggers, aside from myself, are:

• Dave and Deb from The Planet D
• Melvin from Traveldudes
• Janice from Solo Traveler
• Abigail from Inside the Travel Lab
• Isabelle from Isabelle’s Travel Guide
• Michael from Go See Write
• Nellie from Wild Junket

In addition, other travel bloggers are invited to tweet their Jordan posts during the two-day event. Please include the #GoJordan hashtag in your tweets. Selected posts will be re-tweeted.

On Friday, 16 December, the participating bloggers, together with Visit Jordan, will organise a #GoJordan Q&A session on Twitter. The hour-long event starts at 6pm (Central European Time), 5pm (UK time), 7pm (Jordan time), 12pm (Eastern time US/Canada). During #GoJordan hour, questions from the public which were previously submitted to Visit Jordan will be answered by the eight bloggers.

You can follow all our Jordan tweets via the hashtag #GoJordan.

Don’t miss this golden opportunity to find out about Jordan as a holiday destination.

Note: This Featured Destination campaign is brought to you by iambassador and is sponsored by Visit Jordan. Velvet Escape maintains full editorial control of the content published on this blog.

Featured destination: Jordan is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The white sands of Whitehaven Beach

This time three years ago, I was roaming around South America, having the time of my life on my first solo round-the-world trip. After ten years of focusing on my career, this trip certainly opened my eyes to the world outside my comfy ‘bubble’. I learned to value the relationships I have with my family and friends, be grateful for the small every day delights we often overlook and most importantly, I learned to connect with and appreciate the person that I am.

My Travel Journal

I was perusing my Travel Journal this morning and read several entries from my RTW trip. Looking back, there were a handful of defining moments during that trip. One moment which I will never forget is the epiphany I experienced on the sands of Whitehaven Beach in Australia. Another defining moment happened several weeks later while on a camping trip to the McLeod River. I briefly described this moment in my Travel Journal entry (below). What strikes me when I read that account is the frame of mind I was in: open, eager, positive and excited about the new insights I was picking up along the way. There’s a childish glee in my ‘voice’, like there was a candy store at every bend of the road. Since that trip, I’ve made it my objective to maintain that same frame of mind. With the challenges that life constantly throws at us, it’s sometimes difficult to do so. At times like these, I look to the people or things that inspire me… and I pick up my Travel Journal. Reading through the stories and having a chuckle or two, I realise that my Travel Journal isn’t only a collection of my travel experiences, it’s my personal source of inspiration.

More firsts in “No Network Coverage” country

A page from my Travel Journal

The grass trees

On Monday morning, me and Bas, another guest at the B&B I was staying at, hopped into a giant 4-wheel-drive with Bob, our guide/driver/chef, for a camping adventure in the mountains northwest of Cairns – I previously thought that we would head west over the Great Dividing Range to the Outback but instead we headed first north along the coast past Port Douglas then westwards and up into the mountains. About 120 kilometers from Cairns, I had a quick glance at my mobile phone and it read “No Network Coverage”. Wow! I can’t remember the last time I was ever in a place with absolutely no mobile network coverage! Six months ago, I might have panicked a bit being disconnected from the ‘civilised’ world like this but I’m a changed person now (well, kind of) and I didn’t even blink an eye.

The McLeod River headlands

The scenery along the way was beautiful: first past the stunning coast, then along huge sugar cane plantations and hilly cattle country with the occasional farmhouse. As we cleared the mountains, the vegetation changed from tropical rainforest to a drier, shrubby forest type with many gum trees. After about two hours of driving, we turned off the main road and headed along a dirt road into real bush country. I was glad we were in a sturdy 4WD – it handled the steep road into the mountains and through various streams and dry, rocky riverbeds effortlessly. I loved the vegetation, mostly gum and grass trees and bottlebrush.

We camped on the banks of the McLeod River

After about 45 minutes, we arrived at our camping site, a serene spot at the banks of the McLeod River – I was told that this is actually the McLeod River headlands and that the river is several hundred kilometers long and winds its way to the Gulf of Carpentaria. That spot was just magical: towering gum trees provided a cool shade while the river, with its pebble-strewn bed, was crystal clear. We took several gulps of water from the river and it tasted very sweet and fresh. I can’t remember the last time I was able to just cup my hands and take a mouthful of water straight from the river without being terribly ill later. Glorious stuff!

Easy-peasy!

I set up my tent in a jiffy (my first try – it’s a lot easier than I thought it would be: knock the pins into the ground, connect some poles, roll out the canvas and clip it onto the frame – easy peasy!), then helped Bob and Bas collect some firewood. That was easy too. A few months before, the park caretaker orchestrated a controlled bush fire in this area so there was a lot of ready-made firewood just lying around! After lunch, Bob took us out for a bushwalk along the river. Just one kilometer further was an absolutely magnificent spot: at this point, massive boulders that continue as far as the eye can see force the river to branch out into countless streams, creating hundreds of gushing rock pools, cascades and waterfalls. We went boulder-hopping and I found many crystal-clear pools: one I called the jacuzzi, another the bath-tub, and yet another the shoulder-massage spa.

The McLeod River

Bottlebrush

Reflections in the McLeod River

We returned to the camp just before sunset and I helped light the campfire (my first time) – Bob and Bas laughed at me initially as I had some ‘ignition’ problems (the leaves just refused to burn) but as soon as I’d gotten over that hurdle (ok, I used up half a matchbox), we soon had a roaring fire going; more than sufficient to prepare that leg of lamb we brought with us! Bob cooked us a marvelous dinner; the lamb was exquisite and the Merlot that went with it was pretty stunning too! We had a long and lazy dinner, with some very interesting conversation topics, and looked up occasionally to admire the starry sky. I just loved it.

I soon had the fire roaring!

The camp fire looked beautiful at night

What a kookaburra sounds like

A fish-eye view of the camp site

The next morning, we woke up to the sounds of singing birds – did you know that a kookaburra (yes, the one that sits in the old gum tree) makes a sound similar to an excited chimpanzee (I don’t know how many of you have seen an excited chimp but I hope you get the picture! When I was in Airlie Beach, I heard them and I commented to the owner of that backpacker place that there must be a lot of monkeys living in the trees behind the hostel. He first looked at me quizzically, then started laughing and said that those were in fact kookaburras, i.e. birds, not monkeys!…. Like I’m supposed to know that?!). Anyway, back to when I woke up. I had another ‘first’ and this one wasn’t that much fun. I must say, I loved everything about this camping trip except for the ‘nature’s call’ aspect of it; you know, that call you have to heed, preferably behind some bush. Not a very pleasant thing, especially if you’re wary of snakes or spiders who usually hang out around bushes and dead leaves. Anyway, I got that safely out of the way and trudged back to the camp and there was breakfast: bacon, eggs and sausages. Delish! We wolfed it down in no time.

I felt so connected with the place and with myself

The cascades in the McLeod River

After breakfast, I made my way down to the waterfalls for another long and lazy dip in the pools. I looked around and took in the majesty of this place: the slender gum trees all around; the colours of the trees, the leaves and flowers, the water and the sky; the sounds of the birds and gurgling water; and the beautiful shapes of the boulders.

Lying there in one of the rock pools with absolutely no one around, I felt so connected with the place and with myself, and so free. An awesome, very spiritual experience I will not easily forget. I’m only into the second month of this trip and I already feel like I’ve come a long way, like I’m a changed person. It isn’t a new me, I don’t think, but perhaps a more enlightened version of the ‘old’ Keith. Whatever it is, I’m loving this new feeling!

A personal source of inspiration is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

When I received an invitation from Gloria, a good friend who lives in a charming Tuscan village, to participate in the Italy Blogging Roundtable by writing about “Gifts” from Italy, I didn’t have to think twice about accepting the invitation and coming up with a topic: Tuscany of course! To me, Tuscany is a chest of wonderful gifts to the world. If you’re looking for reasons to visit Tuscany, the ‘gifts’ listed below will hopefully convince you to book that ticket!

Historic towns

Florence steals the show with its glorious architecture, historic monuments and world-class museums. Other popular towns include Siena, with its breathtaking square, the Piazza del Campo; San Gimignano, the world’s first ‘Manhattan’; Pisa, with its iconic leaning tower; the ancient hilltop town of Volterra; and Montepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza in the heart of one of Tuscany’s main wine producing regions. My advice is to hire a car or use public transportation as this will give you many opportunities to explore the province at your own leisure and avoid the day-trippers. It’ll also allow you to discover many smaller towns and villages and immerse yourself in Tuscan life.

Pienza

Dreamy landscapes

Anyone who’s been to Tuscany will undoubtedly gush about the dreamy landscapes: gentle rolling hills, expansive fields of sunflowers, cypress tree-lined country lanes and vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see. The landscapes, settlements, weather and light collude to make Tuscany a photographer’s dream! The best areas to view the quintessentially Tuscan landscapes are in the Chianti (the region between Florence and Siena), the Maremma and the Montepulciano-Montalcino axis.

A typical Tuscan landscape

Cuisine

My love affair with Tuscany started with a simple plate of spaghetti aglio e olio peperoncino (olive oil, garlic and peppers) in a small trattoria in Florence. Since then, I’ve explored a wide array of Italian cuisine (and I still have much more to discover). It amazes me each time how such seemingly simple dishes can taste so beautiful. Some of my best foodie experiences were in Tuscany, like the sublime pappa al pomodoro (bread and tomato soup) and the succulent vitello arrosto (roast veal) I had in Siena; or that heavenly pizza layered with lardo di colonnata (pig fat made in a white marble vat with garlic and herbs/spices) in Ristorante Lo Zenzero just north of Pisa; or one of the juiciest sirloin steaks I’ve ever had sprinkled with fresh black truffles in a Paganico; or the time I stayed at an agriturismo where the lady of the house served us bread soaked in red wine and topped with sugar! Oh, and then there’s the ice-cream, in particular the excellent gelato in Pisa! Tuscan food is simply a precious gift that I’ll accept with open arms, any time! If you’re interested in Tuscan cuisine, I highly recommend attending a cooking course, like the ones offered by Cuoche in Vacanza.

Pasta with black truffles

Pizza topped with lardo di colonnata

Art & Design

Widely recognised as the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Tuscany is home to some of the most priceless art treasures on the planet. Many of the most famous artworks by the likes of Michelangelo and Donatello can be found in Florence’s museums, such as the Uffizi, but look further and you’ll discover much more art and design. Simply pop into one of the many stunning churches, monasteries, villas and farmhouses to admire and feel inspired by Tuscan art. From the magnificent Charterhouse in Calci to the Piaggio Museum (the home of the Vespa scooter), there’s something for everyone.

The Calci Charterhouse

A design Vespa

Festivals

Festivals in Tuscany are a true delight. Many of these festivals and events can trace their roots back to medieval times and the Tuscans proudly uphold this heritage right down to the smallest details. One of the most exciting experiences is watching the Palio horse race in Sienna’s Piazza del Campo every July and August. The Viareggio Carnevale (in February and March), with its massive paper-maché floats, is fun for the whole family. The Volterra medieval festival and the Bravio delle Botti, a fun barrel-rolling event in Montepulciano (both take place in the last week of August) are other must-see events.

Flag-waving parade in Lucca

Authentic accommodation

There are several things I vividly remember from my first venture into the Tuscan countryside: the rolling landscape, the cypress trees and sunflower fields, the rustic farmhouses and the stunning villas. I soon discovered that it’s possible to stay at some of these farmhouses or in a historic villa such as the grand Villa di Corliano. Both offer an authentic Tuscan experience. I’ll always remember my stay an agriturismo where the owner spoiled us silly with heaps of fresh fruit, jams, biscotti, olives, wines and limoncello (lemon liquor) produced at his estate; or my stay in a luxurious villa in Tuscany overlooking mile after mile of vineyards with the hilltop town of Montalcino in the distance. These are wonderful experiences which no one will easily forget.

Villa Corliano

Typical products from Agriturismo Spazzavento

These are amazing gifts from Tuscany that we can all experience. What are you waiting for?

About the Italy Blogging Roundtable

The Italy Blogging Roundtable is an initiative of five Italy-based travel bloggers. Each month, the bloggers publish an Italy-related post on a specific theme. The Italy Blogging Roundtable bloggers are:

• Gloria (At Home in Tuscany)
  
• Alexandra (Arttrav)
• Jessica (Italylogue)
• Melanie (Italofile)
• Rebecca (Brigolante)

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Paradizo.

Tuscany’s gifts to the world is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

A special guest post by Andrea from The Butterflyist.

Lake Mburo (image courtesy of Crystal)

The fact that a village exists bang in the middle of a national park, with the high probability that children may encounter lions or buffalo on their way to school, shows how far Uganda has yet to come in terms of its own development, never mind its tourist infrastructure.

But on my three week trip here a couple of months ago, I discovered the ‘Pearl of Africa’ to be exactly that. A country of incredible beauty and strength of character, regardless of the frequent power cuts, cold showers, and the mud-slide roads. And also one of the world’s top destinations for bird-watching – in all, an awe-inspiring velvet escape.

Help, we’re stuck!

Safari here is more low-key than in neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania, but it’s arguably more enjoyable, given that there isn’t a scrum of safari trucks blocking the viewing points. Plus, Uganda has the ‘Big Five’, albeit that its rhino lives in sanctuaries.

School bus in ditch (image courtesy of Andrea)

With our guide Farouk, our first safari stop was Murchison Falls National Park – named after the 141ft waterfall which breaks the Victoria Nile. We were here in rainy season, and when the heavens opened, they did so with gusto.

The red dirt tracks became treacherous, and testament to Uganda’s need to work on them, on our long drive into the park we saw a school bus in a ditch – stuck, and with its passengers spilled out.

“They’ll have to dig themselves out,” said Farouk, and on we travelled towards our overnight accommodation, scattering the olive baboons that blocked our path. We spied African Fish Eagles, Brown Snake Eagles and Crested Guinea Fowl along the way.

Spending the night inside the park at Red Chilli Rest Camp, we were kept company by a couple of warthogs who had wandered in to hunt out the bins. The warthogs won’t really bother you, it’s the hippos you have to watch out for.

Big beasties

The next morning we took the launch over the Nile for our early game drive through Murchison, greener and lusher than we were to find Queen Elizabeth to be. Here, we saw many antelope such as the Uganda Kob, Jackson’s Hartebeest, and the Water Buck, as well as bigger mammals.

Buffaloes at Murchison (image courtesy of Andrea)

Buffalo were plenty, and I loved how they paused their grass-munching in unison, to stare at us until we passed. And the giraffes or hippos were not shy either, we saw many. The only mishap was discovering a huge, bull elephant obstructing our way, close to the border edge with Congo, meaning we had to turn back.

The day’s highlight though came when we were travelling to our next stopover. Driving out of the park after dark, we saw two green eyes staring out from the bush – it was a leopard. I almost cried with excitement and emotion.

Time for lions?

Of the ‘Big Five’, we’d seen buffalo, elephant, leopard, and a rhino (while at the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre early in our stay), managing to clock up all but the lions. We were hoping they’d show their faces at Queen Elizabeth National Park, our next destination while on the safari part of our trip.

Here, the scenery is the African plains and straw-coloured savannah that you imagine for safari. Except, you don’t imagine men on bicycles wheeling past, loaded with bunches of bananas. And yet there they were – taking fresh produce to a local fishing village that wasn’t able to grow its own. “Only in Uganda” we claimed – the catchphrase of our trip.

Lion in the grass at Queen Elizabeth NP (image courtesy of Crystal)

Animal attacks were frequent, it transpired. and so villagers had various ways of dealing with this. Farouk told us that babies had a special herb poultice inserted under their skin to ward off encounters – though I’m not sure whether its effectiveness had been tested!

Still, our luck was in. We heard from a ranger that lions had indeed decided to make an appearance, obviously just for us.

It wasn’t easy to locate them, being the same colour as the landscape. But after much circling the tracks, keen-eyed Farouk pointed towards two males sleeping in the long grass. And I could feel that lump again at the back of my throat in recognition that this was the first time I’d seen lions in Africa.

We could only stay a few moments, the larger male woke and pierced us with his eyes, like a bouncer telling us to move on. But I won’t forget how the hairs on my arms prickled as he started to turn his powerful head towards us.

We’d done it, we’d seen the Big Five, in the land-locked country of Uganda – and it’s earned the name of the Pearl of Africa for a very good reason.

About this week’s guest writer

Andrea is a freelance journalist and travel writer based in the UK. As well as writing for the British national press, her site Butterflyist.com aims to inspire people to have the confidence to push their comfort zones, whether through travel or other means. However, while loving adventure, Andrea is a self-proclaimed hater of camping – though will suffer it if absolutely necessary. You can find her on Twitter at @thebutterflyist11.

The Big Five in Uganda is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Camels at the Timanfaya NP

Lanzarote is a small volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Morocco. The island, part of the Canary Islands archipelago, is a popular holiday destination for Europeans who come here to bask in the sun and explore the extraordinary volcanic landscapes. From the air, Lanzarote looks like a chain of volcanic cones, an inhospitable island composed of endless fields of lava rocks but look closer and you’ll find charming white-washed villages, verdant valleys, towering cliffs, beautiful beaches and deserted coves. To help you discover the wonders of Lanzarote, I’ve created a list of ten things to see and do, which I can recommend to anyone visiting the island.

Things to see and do in Lanzarote

1. Jameos del Agua – the Jameos del Agua, is for me, one of the island’s most fascinating attractions. The Jameos is a striking combination of geology, architecture and design. The island’s most famous architect, Cesar Manrique, built a visitor centre complete with a restaurant, bar, one of the most amazing auditoriums I’ve ever seen and a museum inside what used to be a gigantic lava tube. Plan a visit in the morning to avoid the crowds. Look for the little white crabs in the cave.

The stunning pool at the Jameos del Agua

2. Timanfaya – the Timanfaya National Park is another of the island’s prime attractions. The national park consists of a series of volcanoes and massive lava fields. It’s a surreal experience driving through the park. You’ll pass volcanic cones in a multitude of red-orange-yellow-blue tints and intriguing rock formations; the scenery is simply mind-blowing! Head up to the visitor centre and watch the guide ‘create’ a geyser and other cool stunts.

The volcanic landscapes of Timanfaya NP

3. El Golfo – this is a little lagoon on the island’s west coast. The lagoon is a short walk past the rocky lava coast and you’ll be greeted by the striking jade colour of the lagoon against a backdrop of red cliffs.

El Golfo

4. El Mirador – located in the far northwestern corner of Lanzarote, El Mirador is a visitor centre built atop towering cliffs. The observation deck, 479m above sea level, features breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, the nearby island of La Graciosa and the ancient salt plains of Las Salinas del Rio.

The view from El Mirador

5. Eat – Lanzarote is famous for its fresh seafood and peculiar potatoes. The volcanic earth churns out humongous potatoes and these are included in almost every type of Lanzarote specialties. Don’t miss the wonderfully fresh tuna, swordfish or monk fish. Restaurants I can highly recommend include La Puntilla (on the edge of Arrecife’s lovely inner harbour) and the restaurant at the Stratus winery.

Fresh grilled tuna and peppers at La Puntilla, Arrecife

Chicken and a Lanzarote potato on a volcanic grill

6. Discover Lanzarote wines – Lanzarote has a vine-growing tradition that began in the 15th century. Despite the very little rainfall, vine cultivation flourished and the island today produces excellent wines. Visit the surreal La Geria wine-producing region, at the foot of several volcanoes and learn about the unique methods used to cultivate and protect the vines at the El Grifo Wine Museum. Then try the local favourite, Malvasia, or the Moscatel at any of the nearby wineries.

The volcanic vineyards in La Geria

7. Beaches – like its neighbours, Lanzarote has a good number of beaches. Puerto del Carmen, Teguise and Playa Blanca are the island’s main beach towns. However, there are plenty of other beaches to explore around the island such as the golden sands of the Punta del Papagayo beaches and the black sand Playa Quemada. The beaches on the south side of the island tend to be better areas for swimming due to the currents.

Caleta Famara

8. Explore the towns – Lanzarote has numerous towns that are absolutely worth exploring. Remnants of Lanzarote’s colourful maritime history comes to life in the capital, Arrecife, which boasts a 16th century castle, Castillo de San Gabriel, on an islet at the mouth of the harbour. Another town that’s worth exploring is Haria. Located in the north of the island, away from the tourist hubs, Haria is a gorgeous white-washed town with a lively market every Saturday morning. Approach the town from the west for amazing views of the white houses in the valley of a thousand palms – oh yes, make sure to find out why there are so many palms in this town!

The inner harbour in Arrecife

Haria in the valley of a thousand palms

9. Get into the water – your visit shouldn’t be limited to land-based attractions. There is a great variety of things to do in the ocean, from water-sports to scuba diving, game fishing, whale watching and other marine excursions. Lanzarote is widely recognised as one of the best surfing spots in Europe – Caleta de Famara (at the foot of the spectacular cliffs of Famara) and Caleto Caballo are popular surfing spots. If you’re into windsurfing, head for the Los Cucharas beach in Costa Teguise. Game fishing enthusiasts should check with the harbour at Puerto del Carmen or Playa Blanca for excursion possibilities. For something more subdued, go on a sailing trip or book a cruise from Orzola to the islands of La Graciosa or Alegranza, or join a submarine excursion from Puerto Calero for a chance to view Lanzarote’s beautiful underwater world.

Surfers hitting the waves

10. Visit the Cactus garden (Jardin de Cactus) – built in an old quarry in the north of the island, the Jardin de Cactus is another Cesar Manrique creation. The garden, designed in the shape of an amphitheatre, houses more than 10,000 cacti from around the world as well as a multitude of beautiful volcanic stone sculptures. Go in the morning to avoid the busloads of tourists.

Cactus garden (image courtesy of threefishsleeping)

Ten things to do in Lanzarote is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Evason Ma'in hot springs entrance

Jordan is home to numerous places that can justifiably be called ‘enchanting’; walking through Petra by night or floating in the Dead Sea at sunset are some of the most magical experiences I’ve ever had. Another place that absolutely fits the bill is the Evason Ma’in Hot Springs. The Ma’in hot springs are located near the Dead Sea, about an hour’s drive southwest of Amman, in a spectacular canyon 264m below sea level.

The last stretch of the drive from Amman, through mountains and down into the canyon is especially stunning. As the road winds its way down to the canyon floor, you’ll be treated to amazing panoramic views of the orangy-ochre coloured mountains, the canyon and the gorgeous palm-fringed oasis cosily nestled in the valley.

Stunning views of the mountains and canyon

The Evason Ma'in hot springs nestled in the valley

An oasis of relaxation and indulgence

The first glimpses of the Evason Ma’in hot springs are simply unforgettable. Towering mountains on both sides provide a stunning frame for a lush, green oasis, with waterfalls gracefully tumbling down slopes which resemble melted chocolate; it’s a sight that I found remarkably soothing. That feeling continued when I entered the resort where I was greeted by a very pleasant lobby with plush wooden furnishing, large cushions and gorgeous lamps. The interior of the resort, clearly Arabian with Asian influences, coalesce effortlessly with the natural surroundings to create a relaxing, earthy atmosphere.

The gorgeous interior of the Evason Ma'in resort

The first thing I did before checking into my room was to find the closest terrace and take in the view. I plonked myself into a comfortable chair, ordered a glass of delicious Machareus Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc from the local Zumot estate and simply gasped at the incredible view: a true Velvet Moment there!

My view of the falls and the pool

I grabbed every opportunity I had during my stay to sit and enjoy this enchanting view, both day and night, for a drink or a meal. My next stop was my room and it was just as inviting as the rest of the resort, with cosy, wooden furniture, a large bed and a delightfully spacious bathroom.

My room at the Evason Ma'in resort

The Six Senses Spa at the Evason Ma’in Hot Springs

The Evason Ma’in is renowned for the curative properties of the hot springs which flow from a volcanic source deep in the mountains. The stream runs along the edges of the canyon before tumbling down to the valley at various points, forming several waterfalls. The temperature of the mineral-rich water averages around 40 degrees Celcius. There is a public pool at one of the falls, another pool at the Evason resort (for guests) and a third pool at the wonderfully secluded Six Senses Spa. The Spa is located a short walk or drive away from the resort. The only way I can describe the place is to call it an oasis of relaxation and indulgence. The pool area, with the waterfall elegantly cascading into the pool, is simply gorgeous.

The Six Senses Spa tucked away in a secluded spot in the canyon

The pool at the Six Senses Spa

Another unique feature of the pool area is the natural sauna – in a cave next to the pool. It’s a small cave with a stream running through it, and you have to bend low to get in but the heat will soon get you sweating!

After a quick swim in the warm water and a few minutes of sitting under the waterfall, it was time for my massage. I chose the Swedish deep tissue massage and it was seriously one of the best massages I’ve ever had. The therapist did a brilliant job in kneading away the knots in my shoulders – she could tell I spend a lot of time online!

I returned to the pool after my massage. By this time, it was dark and there was no one around – I felt absolutely regal in my solitude under the starry sky.

Things to do at the Evason Ma’in Hot Springs

My view of the falls every morning

There’s more at the resort to keep you occupied aside from the hot springs and the Spa. In the mornings, guests can go for a stroll along the canyon and end just in time for a unique breakfast on a promontory – breakfast is reeled in on a rope across the canyon from the resort! Another unique activity is the open-air cinema where guests can watch movies, with the walls of the canyon as a spectacular backdrop and nothing but the star-studded sky above. The resort also organises guided walks through the canyon – it’s possible to hike through the canyon to the Dead Sea.

The Evason Ma’in Hot Springs is a truly enchanting place. The stunning natural surroundings and the blissful seclusion combined with great service in an environmentally-friendly resort make it the perfect retreat for those seeking relaxation and a dose of indulgence.

Note: A big thank you goes to Visit Jordan and Evason Ma’in for your gracious hospitality. As always, views expressed in this post are mine.

Enchanting spots: Evason Ma’in hot springs is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The Athabasca Glacier

The Athabasca Glacier is one of several glaciers that originates from the massive Columbia Icefield in the Canadian Rockies. Located along the Icefield Parkway between Jasper and Banff, the Athabasca Glacier is a popular attraction due to its accessibility. Visitors can opt for an icewalk across the 6km long glacier or along one of the many mountain trails in the area. For a spot of fun and thrills, I recommend the Columbia Icefield Glacier Adventure.

The ride to the Athabasca Glacier

From the Icefield Centre, visitors can hop on the Brewster Ice Explorer – an imposing $2 million bus that takes visitors on a thrilling ride atop the glacier. The tour lasts about 80 minutes and provides spectacular views of the surrounding glaciers. Visitors also have the opportunity to hop off the bus onto the glacier for a walk on the ice. Check out the Brewster’s predecessors while you’re at the Icefield Centre.

One of the earliest icefield mobiles

Another vintage snow mobile

Today's Brewster Ice Explorer

The ride in the Brewster Ice Explorer down to the glacier is a sure highlight as the bus negotiates the steep slope – the commentary from the driver certainly adds to the suspense!

The thrilling ride down to the Athabasca Glacier

Driving on the glacier

Hikers on the Athabasca Glacier

Walking on the Athabasca Glacier

After several kilometers, the bus reached a clearing and we were allowed to hop off. The icy wind was the first thing I noticed before I lost my footing on the ice. The cold, hard ice under my behind was the second thing I felt! The experience of standing on a glacier and being able to view the countless cracks, streams and icy formations up close was simply phenomenal. I walked around and marvelled at the colours and patterns of the ice. Visitors are advised to watch where they step as it’s slippery and your foot could easily sink through a thin patch of ice. I guess I’m a lousy listener: I slipped several times and my foot broke through the ice on two occasions. It’s hard to keep your eyes glued to the ground when the surrounding view is so incredible! In any case, I took comfort in the fact that I had a comprehensive travel insurance plan should I break anything!

Running stream in the glacier

The Athabasca Glacier

Having a fun time on the Athabasca Glacier! (image courtesy of Nikki Bayley)

The Icefield Centre is located along the Icefield Parkway – one of the most stunning drives in the world – a short distance from Banff or Jasper. If you’re in the neighbourhood, check out the Columbia Icefield Glacier Tour. It’s a unique opportunity to drive onto and walk on a glacier!

Oh yes, dress warm and watch your step!

Note: a big thank you goes to Travel Alberta for hosting me in the Canadian Rockies.

Fun and thrills on the Athabasca Glacier is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Covent Garden wasn’t quite in at the start of London’s theatrical tradition – Shakespeare’s Globe for instance was south of the river and other early playhouses clustered in the East End – but it’s been the centre of London’s theatreland since the time of Charles II. Nell Gwyn acted here, it hosts the ‘actors’ church’ and you can even buy your own theatre in the market.

St Paul's Church (image courtesy of Andrew Havis)

The Royal Opera House is here, English National Opera isn’t far and there are no fewer than thirteen theatres within walking distance of Covent Garden market.

Architect Inigo Jones was commissioned by  Francis Russell, the Earl of Bedford, to develop the area. He started with an Italian-style arcaded piazza centred on St Paul’s church – the earliest Renaissance square in England and the model for later London squares which adopted the layout (though not the arcades).

St Paul’s is known as ‘the actors’ church’ for its links with the profession; memorial services for actors, directors and stage crew are often held here, as well as a summer fair in aid of the Royal Theatrical Fund, at which you might spot John Nettles, Sir Donald Sinden, and other luminaries of the stage.

The church itself, though, is quite non-theatrical with its very plain, four-square Tuscan order. Apparently Russell didn’t want to spend much on the church and told Inigo Jones he’d be happy with a plain barn; whereupon Jones promised his patron ‘the handsomest barn in Europe’. However, the church does have one quite theatrical illusion to spring on the spectator – while it has a massive portico on the Covent Garden Piazza façade, the entrance is in fact on the other side, through the gardens.

Royal Opera House (image courtesy of Andrea Puggioni)

In the 18th century the theatre was still strictly controlled; Covent Garden had two competing theatres, the Drury Lane and the Royal Opera. They’re still here today, though the Royal Opera House has burned down and been replaced twice, and the current Theatre Royal Drury Lane is the fourth building on that site.

Nell Gwyn started out as an orange seller at Drury Lane, and later trod the boards here, before retiring as King Charles II’s mistress.

There’s more theatre history in Southampton Street, where several eighteenth century houses survive, with classical detailing, tall windows, and careful use of contrasting colours of brick to create architectural interest – this was still a fashionable area, and the quality of the architecture shows it. No. 27 was where David Garrick, the great Shakespearian actor, lived, conveniently located for the theatre (that wasn’t always a good thing; after a riot at the theatre in November 1755, the London crowd came here and smashed Garrick’s windows).

Several streets are still named after actors of the time – Betterton, Kean, Kemble and Macklin.

Punch & Judy (image courtesy of Eduard Diaz)

And the Punch & Judy pub in Covent Garden market commemorates the first record of a Punch & Judy show in England – noted by the diarist Samuel Pepys in 1662. There’s still a Punch & Judy show in Covent Garden, though Punch, Judy and Pretty Polly have been joined by the crocodile and the policeman since his time.

Even some of the restaurants are theatrical – Sarastro’s is one of my favourites for its insane décor. It’s a kind of cross of a theatrical props department, a Pharaoh’s tomb, and a bric a brac shop. It gets mixed reviews for the food, but I’ve always rather enjoyed a night there – you just need to bring the right friends and mix them up with a couple of G&Ts. I’m told there’s some stunning erotic art in the gents, too, though obviously have to take that on trust!

The entertainment tradition continues today with Covent Garden’s street entertainers; two hundred years ago you’d have heard street vendors’ cries and hurdy gurdy players, now there are jugglers and living statues.

But my favourite theatrical tradition is hidden away in a little shop in the market; Benjamin Pollock’s toy shop. Here you can buy all kinds of toys and particularly toy theatres, from a fiver for a cardboard Punch & Judy to £195 for a huge wooden model theatre, with all its scenery. The best of them all, for me, is the set of three centuries of the Comédie Française – staging Moliere’s Tartuffe, Beaumarchais’ Marriage of Figaro, and Victor Hugo’s Ernani. That’s a lot of theatrical history for just over £20.

After such a theatrical experience, which of the myriad hotels in Covent Garden should you choose to stay in?  It would have to be one inspired by theatrical décor – the recently-renovated Mercer Street Hotel by Radisson Edwardian.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

Unravelling the mysteries of theatrical Covent Garden is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Welcome Home Mr. Jenkins!

“Good evening Mr. Jenkins, would you like to see our drinks menu?”. I looked up at the waiter with an expression of pure amazement. I’d checked into the Four Seasons Amman twenty minutes earlier and decided to head to the bar for a night cap. How did he know my name? I was seriously impressed. Within minutes of entering the bar, I was sitting very comfortably, with a glass of the fruity St. George Chardonnay in my hand and bowls full of crisps, olives and dates on the table… and the staff addressed me by my name. The warm welcome I received was akin to a homecoming. And the hotel’s staff achieved that in a flash!

The small touches that define luxury

I stayed at the Four Seasons Amman for two nights and I was continuously impressed by their service and the thoughtful details – in my book, the small touches that define luxury. I arrived late in the evening on the first day and was pleasantly surprised (and very thankful) to find a beautiful bowl of fruit and a food platter with olives, crisps and a variety of vegetable sticks and dipping sauces. I explored the rest of the spacious suite and noticed that the bed had already been turned down, with a bottle of mineral water at the bedside. The bathroom was equally spacious and the Bulgari toiletries didn’t look too shabby either.

I slept very well!

Luxurious Bulgari toiletries

The small touches make the difference

The next day, after a long journey to the north of Jordan and back, I returned to my room to find that the shirts I’d laid out on the bed earlier that morning had been pressed and hung up in the closet. Another small detail that caught my eye: the closet door was left slightly ajar with a sleeve poking out, I assume as an indication to me that my shirts had been moved from the bed into the closet. I turned my gaze to the writing table and noticed that my sunglasses had been polished and neatly laid next to its cover, atop a fresh polishing cloth. A very classy touch indeed!

Needless to say, I had a wonderful stay at the Four Seasons Amman. The quality of service was top-notch: attentive, with a smile and lavished with details. What struck me was the clear intention behind every detail; each little action was meant to make the guest feel like everything was being taken care of. I didn’t have to repeat my preferences, such as how I like my coffee served: with soy milk on the side. That was how my coffee was served throughout my stay, after I’d made my preference known at breakfast (which, by the way, is a sumptuous feast!).

Without a doubt, the Four Seasons is an excellent place to stay in Amman. Aside from the exceptional service, the luxurious rooms and the beautiful views of Amman, the hotel also houses two pools, a gym and a beautiful Spa that offers a great variety of treatments. In the afternoons, you can indulge yourself with some sweet and savoury treats in the Foyer Lounge: the Four Seasons Afternoon Tea with an Arabesque Twist, with amongst others date and pistachio scones and cheese-filled kubbeh, is a pure delight!

Excellent service with a smile

Afternoon tea with an Arabesque twist!

When I entered my room that first evening, a message on the tv screen read “Welcome Home Mr. Jenkins”. The hotel’s staff did a brilliant job in making me feel at home; and as with any place we call home, it was hard to leave.

Follow Four Seasons Amman on Twitter.

Note: I was hosted by the Jordan Tourism Board and the Four Seasons Amman. All views expressed in this post are mine.

A warm welcome in Amman is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

I’ve taken more pictures of sunsets but my collection of sunrise pictures is surprisingly varied, well, considering I’m not a morning person. Without further ado, here’s my modest pictorial tribute to the sunrise. Enjoy!

Sunrise over Wadi Rum, Jordan

The peaks of the Austrian Alps bathed in pink at sunrise

Sunrise seen from the Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain

Sunrise at the Kinabatangan River, Sabah, Malaysia

Sunrise in southeast Alaska on the longest day of the year

Overwater bungalows in Bora Bora at dawn

The El Tatio geysers in northern Chile (at an altitude of 5,000m) at sunrise

The San Francisco church in Salta, Argentina at dawn

The beauty of a sunrise is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Sometimes you know when you step into a place that it is holy. You feel the weight of the years, the atmosphere charged with silence and veneration; the air seems colder and thinner than in the street outside and there’s a sense of something invisible being there.

Masonic Temple (image courtesy of Neil Alderney)

I never get that feeling in Westminster Cathedral, which has the ambience of a large train station (though admittedly one where the steam trains burn incense rather than coal); or in St Paul’s, which has something of the feeling of a large bank’s head office. But the first time I went into the Masonic Temple in Great Queen Street, I felt a shiver of recognition. This was a sacred place – one that crackled with holy electricity.

It did help that I was attending a performance of Mozart’s Magic Flute – highly appropriate since his opera uses many of the symbols of Masonry and is indeed set in a temple. But the building – on the outside a piece of standard Lutyens-ish classicism – is fascinating; full of symbolism, from the Masonic Eye of God who sees all to the Egyptian pyramid and luxuriously appointed (the Grand Master at the time it was built was a son of Queen Victoria), full of massy bronze, gleaming tiles and fine wood veneers.

The Masons, long renowned for their secretive nature, now offer guided tours of the temple during the week.

Sri Swaminaryan Mandir temple (image courtesy of Nick Garrod)

A younger temple is the Sri Swaminaryan Mandir, out in suburban Neasden. It looks ancient, with its towering white spires and ornate carving, but in fact it was only begun in 1992. Inside, saffron clad priests keep the gaudily dressed deities fed; at times the shrines look like an upmarket patisserie, with bright purple wedding cakes and plates of delicacies laid out in front of the gods – the bright colours contrasting with the white marble. Bright pink light infuses one shrine; another is tinted blue. It’s sensory overload; if you come at the right time, the temple is full of the smell of cooking and ripe fruit; worshippers ring the bell at darshan (viewing of the images) as chants resound in the echoing building.

Yet also, in a way I can’t explain, it feels very English – in its openness to members of other faiths and its neatness, even the cardigans worn over saris on a nippy autumn day.

Colourful deities ISKCON (image courtesy of Romensky)

See a different spin on Hinduism at the ISKCON temple in Soho Street. Unlike the towering Mandir, this is a temple that would be easy to walk right past – it’s a room upstairs in an ordinary West End house, which contains not just the temple but also an ashram where Krishna devotees live and work.

The temple opens at half past four in the morning, when the first darshan of the day is held; though most will probably prefer to attend a little later at seven, when songs are sung to glorify Krishna and the Hare-Krishna is chanted. Lunchtime is also a popular time to visit, with worship followed by a talk on the values of the ISKCON movement– recommended for anyone interested in Indian spirituality and followed by lunch. My favourite time of day in any Krishna temple though is the evening session, held here at 9 pm; somehow singing a bhajan or two seems a natural way to prepare for rest.

Govinda’s, the temple restaurant, is one of the cheapest places to eat in London; but it’s also a way into the heart of Krishna, as all the food is vegetarian, and has been offered as prasad (a gift to the gods) before being served.

Wat Buddhapadipa (image courtesy of Jessica Mulley)

Wimbledon has a Buddhist temple, Wat Buddhapadipa, built in the Thai style (its construction was supported by the Thai government) in the middle of gardens and orchards (the gardens are open during the week, the main temple only at weekends). The temple is a delicate building with upswept wooden roofs and tiny pinnacles; inside, the colours are bright, golden statues gleaming, scenes from the Buddha’s life painted on the walls, the ceiling painted ox-blood red. Unlike the shining Neasden temple, this one feels mysterious, the dark hardly lit by the lamps around the shrines.

The nicest surprise, for me, was outside. Where other gardens have gnomes, these ones have little buddhas and bodhisattvas sitting in the rockeries.

Temple Church (image courtesy of Lawrence OP)

Finally, there’s also a “temple” of sorts for Christians – namely the aptly-named Temple Church, a gorgeous medieval church built by the Knights Templar which was recently made famous by its role in the Da Vinci Code. It’s a spectacular construction, with glossy black Purbeck marble supporting the top storey and the whole central area lit up by high windows under the wooden vault. It’s a true sanctuary and one of my favourite churches in London.

The temples weren’t planned as a tourist attraction, but they are definitely interesting places to visit – and all the people you meet in them are friendly, willing to explain their beliefs and values, even if you don’t happen to share their views. It is definitely a great idea for a rather “different” day out exploring London’s secret spiritual side.  And when you return to your accommodation, you might want to relax with a drink in the conservatory of a luxury London hotel with views over a tranquil private garden.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

Explore the temples of London is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog