Note: my trip to South Africa was part of the #MeetSouthAfrica project, a collaboration between the South Africa Tourism Board and iambassador. All views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

Instagram highlights of my #MeetSouthAfrica trip is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Marseille’s Vieux Port

Marseille is France’s second largest city and is located on the Mediterranean coast. Blessed with a mild climate and a stunning natural harbour, Marseille has played an important role in the trading routes in the Mediterranean since Roman times. However, the city entered a period of decline in the mid-20th century. In 2013, Marseille has the distinction of being the European Capital of Culture, an event that many locals hope will kickstart a revival of the city. When I started planning my trip to Marseille, I asked around for tips and advice. The opinions were evenly split; one group insisted I avoid the city and instead head straight for the French Riviera or the Provence, whilst another group spoke with great enthusiasm about the city. I was intrigued. It soon became clear to me that Marseille is perhaps one of those places that, with time and exploration, slowly reveals itself to you.

Exploring Marseille

Vieux Port

I felt the instant draw of Marseille the second I stepped out of the Metro station at Vieux Port, the historic harbour in the heart of the city. I was greeted by blue skies, gulls, a salty sea breeze and a gorgeous brand new promenade. The harbour was a hive of activity, with both locals and tourists enjoying the sunshine at the many al fresco cafés and restaurants, or at the embankments. At the harbourfront, a group of boisterous fishermen sold their catch of the day.

Locals enjoying the sunshine at Vieux Port.

The fish market at Vieux Port.

This mirrored-roof is a great eye-catcher at Vieux Port.

The harbour itself was packed with leisure boats and fine yachts. I quickly spotted the city’s most-loved icon perched atop a steep hill fronting the harbour: the impressive Notre Dame de la Garde basilica.

The Notre Dame de la Garde basilica overlooks Vieux Port.

Around the harbour, construction crews worked briskly to complete the renovation work on historic monuments, the promenade and new futuristic-looking buildings such as the Pavilion M (the brand new tourist office), MuCem (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations) and the adjacent Villa Méditerranée. This was clearly a city in the midst of a makeover.

Marseille’s Hôtel de Ville or City Hall looking fresh and bright after its renovations.

The brand new Pavilion M – tourist office and exhibition centre.

The futuristic MuCem is linked to the historic Fort Saint Jean via a bridge.

The Villa Méditerranée is another spectacular new building in Marseille.

I explored Marseille in the following days and discovered a cosmopolitan city, with a rich historic and cultural heritage, which was bent on re-inventing itself. The refurbished Vieux Port, the first stop for most visitors, is a wonderful window to the city. From here, streets branch out in different directions into the surrounding neighbourhoods such as the quaint le Panier district, with its gorgeous cafés and art galleries, and the bustling Arab quarter.

Le Panier

Historic houses in le Panier.

Quirky art in le Panier.

This bar is apparently very famous in France.

The Vieille Charité is one of Marseille’s most beautiful museums and is located in the heart of the Panier district.

Another muse-see in Marseille is the city’s 19th century Cathedral, situated between the Panier district and the port. Built to impress, the cavernous Cathedral or La Major is a mix of Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic styles.

The Cathedral was built in the late-19th century and was designed to reflect the city’s prosperity and influence.

The Arab Quarter

Marseille has a sizeable Arab population – immigrants from the ex-French colonies in North Africa, including Algeria and Tunisia. The Arab Quarter, situated just north of the Vieux Port, is a maze of streets filled with shops, markets and restaurants. The heavy scent of spices in the air was absolutely captivating.

The fish market in the Arab Quarter.

Spices galore!

The Arab Quarter also has a selection of some of the city’s best restaurants. For authentic Arab cuisine (with reputedly the best couscous in town), try Chez Kachetel. If you’re a big fan of seafood, you have to have a meal at Toinou!

The best place in Marseille for couscous.

Toinou serves some of the best seafood platters in Marseille.

The beacon of Marseille

I set aside a whole afternoon to visit the city’s most prominent icon: the Notre Dame de la Garde. Situated on the city’s highest point, this famous basilica is often referred to by locals as Marseille’s compass or beacon. It stands tall like a guardian of the city and the views from the hill are stunning, but get ready to be blown away by the magnificent interior the second you step inside!

The magnificent interior of the Notre Dame de la Garde basilica.

Marseille is doing a remarkable job in re-inventing itself as a new cultural magnet. The museums and cultural centres look amazing and the line-up of exhibitions to be held throughout the year in conjunction with European Capital of Culture is impressive. I wish I could’ve stayed longer to explore other parts of the city – three days wasn’t sufficient in my opinion. I missed other beautiful and interesting sights like the Palais Longchamp, the fishing village of L’Estaque, the city’s islands and beaches, and the hip Cours Julien district. I guess I’ll have to return soon!

A big heartfelt thank you goes to Eva from the Marseille-Provence Greeters network for showing me around her city. Her enthusiasm certainly rubbed off on me! Eva is also the owner of a gorgeous holiday rental in le Panier. The apartment is bright, spacious and boasts stunning views of the harbour and the Mediterranean Sea.

The beautiful view from Eva’s apartment in le Panier.

If you’re planning to visit Marseille, check out Eva’s apartment and ask her or any of her Marseille Greeter colleagues to show you around. It really is a terrific way to get to know Marseille… through the eyes of a local.

Impressions of Marseille is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

“I bet it even has its own Eiffel Tower”, I joked.

To my surprise, Kate, our South Africa Tourism host, turned around and said, “yes, as a matter of fact, it does!”. We had a good laugh about it while my mind churned out all sorts of less-than-flattering adjectives. It was a long drive and thanks to our wifi-equipped van, we started tweeting about our visit. Kate sent a tweet asking for suggestions of things to do and see in Parys. Within moments, a guy named Bertrand responded and offered to show us his town.

@kate_els5454 How does local microbrewery beers, lunch, missioning through town, meeting some of the friendly locals sound? Who will join?

— Bertrand v.d. Berg (@bertrandvdb) May 5, 2013

And that was the start of a simply unforgettable day in Parys!

The Stonehenge

We arrived in Parys and headed straight for our accommodation, Stonehenge in Africa Lodge. “What? There’s a Stonehenge in Parys?” My initial thoughts of a quirky town were firmed up in an instant. As we drove up to the lodge, we passed the massive menhirs standing erect like their counterparts in England. A gorgeous springbok and a few meerkats sprang across the road, a simple but effective reminder that we were indeed in Africa. We entered the lodge to find an impressive atrium with a beautiful fireplace in the middle. I walked outside and was greeted by a gorgeous lawn, a smattering of palm trees and a swimming pool. In the distance, I could hear and see the rapids of the Vaal River. The surroundings were absolutely lovely.

Inside the impressive Stonehenge in Africa Lodge.

The pool at the Stonehenge Lodge.

The Stonehenge in Africa Lodge.

The Vaal River

Bertrand came to pick us up at the lodge. He approached us with a big smile and welcomed us to his town. I soon found out that he’s been a reader of my blog for more than a year, and that he’d taken the afternoon off from work to show us around. That just blew me away. I mean, how cool is that?

Inspiration and fun at Kiki’s

My fellow blogger, Simon, and I hopped into Bertrand’s car and he drove us past meadows, beautiful homes with well-kept gardens, broad tree-lined avenues and the picturesque Vaal River to the centre of Parys. The town is best known for its many antique shops, restaurants, adventure activities (such as whitewater rafting, rock-climbing and abseiling) and golfing (Parys is home to two highly-rated golf courses located on islands in the Vaal River!). Bertrand smiled as he parked the car in front of a row of shops. “Here we are!” and he pointed to the photo studio in front of us. I looked at him quizzically. He noticed my expression and explained, “You’re so used to taking pictures everywhere you go. I thought it would be cool to flip things around and have pictures taken of you instead!” I took a deep breath and smiled back.

I had a good look at the board hanging above the entrance of the studio and read the words “KIKI’S VINTAGE PHOTO STUDIO” out loud. Bertrand laughed and assured us it was going to be fun. I quietly reminded myself to relax, keep an open mind and go with the flow.

Kiki’s Vintage Photo Studio

Inside the studio, Belinda, the owner, welcomed us with a glass of wine and proceeded to show us around her studio. It was a wondrous place, filled with antique furniture, clothing, cameras, bags and jewellery. The walls were covered with beautiful portraits of people dressed in a variety of styles.

Antique furniture, cameras and clothing at Kiki’s.

Vintage photos on the walls at Kiki’s.

The photo studio.

That’s the best part about this studio; it’s always filled with laughter

I asked Belinda what gave her the idea to open a vintage photo studio. She told us about her passions: collecting antique clothes and photography. One day, she was having coffee with a friend and they talked about starting a new business in Parys. It didn’t take long before the the idea of a vintage photo studio sprang to mind. Since the opening, she has photographed couples, families and friends. “People come here to have their photos taken for a special occasion like a wedding or an anniversary but there are also others who simply want to have a fun afternoon dressing up and posing for the camera. That’s the best part about this studio; it’s always filled with laughter”. It wasn’t difficult to feel drawn to the story – Belinda told it with great passion and enthusiasm. It was an inspiring story of how we can bring joy into the lives of others by simply doing things we enjoy most.

Simon chatting with Belinda in the studio.

Soon, it was time to dress up and have our photos taken. Simon and I voted for the Gatsby style! Belinda helped us choose our outfits and we started laughing hysterically when we emerged from the changing room. Check out the photos below and you’ll see why! The fun continued as we struck a variety of poses; Simon played a madame and I took on the role of her bellboy and photographer.

It was a totally unexpected experience, one that I will not easily forget. We left Kiki’s Vintage Photo Studio feeling very inspired by Belinda’s story and with huge grins on our faces, all thanks to Bertrand! Belinda later gave me a CD containing the photos she took. This was my favourite. What do you think?

We walked down the street, past a variety of antique and home decor shops. Bertrand explained that the antique business in Parys started when the farming community in the area started to sell their old furniture. The number of antique shops grew as word spread across the country, attracting hoards of antique collectors.

Stores along Bree Street in Parys.

The Pickled Pig

We soon found ourselves outside a curious-looking pub: the Pickled Pig. Bertrand told us about the nearby micro-brewery, De Garve, and that we could have a beer-tasting at this pub. Simon and I didn’t have to think twice!

The Pickled Pig on Bree Street, Parys.

We walked in and were greeted by the gregarious owner, Nico. He presented us with a menu describing the six beers. I’ve been to various beer-tastings at micro-breweries but the tasting experience at the Pickled Pig is certainly unique. Perhaps it was the warm welcome we received from the locals that made the difference. They made us feel right at home and chatted excitedly with us about travel and their country. Their enthusiasm and curiosity were undeniably infectious.

Posing at the Pickled Pig with (left to right) Bertrand, Simon, Nico and me.

The beers were delicious – my favourite was the Jolly Nun (an intriguing yet easy-to-drink Belgian-style ale with a distinctive bitter lemon finish).

My favourite – the Jolly Nun!

The magic of South Africa is in its people

It was an unforgettable afternoon that was made very special by the fabulous hospitality of the locals. This was my fourth time in South Africa, a country that I fell in love with on my very first visit. I always wondered what it was that made this country so special. I certainly love its spectacular landscapes and nature, as well as its amazing array of food and wines but there was something else about it, something magical that keeps drawing me back. That afternoon with the locals in Parys gave me the final clue. The magic of South Africa is in its people and I’m thankful for people like Bertrand and Belinda for taking the time to share some of that magic with me.

That afternoon was also a great reminder of the pleasures of the unexpected when we travel with an open mind. Ditching my preconceptions about Parys and simply going with the flow resulted in memories I will cherish for a long, long time.

Oh… and in case you’re wondering… yes, we did get to see the Eiffel Tower in Parys!

The quirky Eiffel Tower in Parys.

Note: my trip to South Africa was part of the #MeetSouthAfrica project, a collaboration between the South Africa Tourism Board and iambassador. All views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

Discovering the magic of South Africa in Parys is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

South Africa certainly holds a special place in my heart – each of my previous trips always felt like a homecoming. I simply love the incredible warmth and hospitality of South Africans, the mouthwatering food and wines and oh, not to mention some of the most breathtaking scenery anywhere in the world!

Me cooking up a storm when I was in Cape Town last year!

My itinerary kicks off in Johannesburg and includes a bicycle tour of Soweto, a game drive in Pilanesberg Game Reserve north of Johannesburg, a visit to the artisans village of Clarens and drives around the stunning Drakensberg mountains. It’s a part of South Africa I’ve never been to before but I’m sure it’s going to be phenomenal!

Follow me and the other bloggers as we explore South Africa via the hashtag #MeetSouthAfrica. Can’t wait!

Note: this trip is sponsored by South Africa Tourism and its partners. Views expressed during this trip are mine, and mine only.

Can’t wait to #MeetSouthAfrica is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Velvet Moments: travel photo – a moment in Avignon is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Me and Melvin at the viewing deck of the Christ Statue, Corcovado.

I LOVE RIO! Who wouldn’t? It surely is one of the most spectacular cities in the world. Hemmed in between a huge bay, the Atlantic Ocean and a mountainous interior, Rio de Janeiro boasts some of the most famous attractions anywhere, such as the Christ the Redeemer statue atop the Corcovado mountain, the Sugar Loaf mountain and the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. I visited Rio for the first time in 2000 and fell in love with the city in an instant. I promised myself that I would one day return, and last week, I did just that!

Me and Melvin (from Traveldudes) were booked to speak at the WTM Latin America trade fair in São Paulo so I suggested stopping in Rio for a few days before heading to the trade fair. Melvin said, “sure, why not?” and before we knew it, we were basking in the glorious Rio sun!

Chilling in Rio!

We stayed at Casa Cool Beans, a lovely guesthouse in the Santa Teresa neighbourhood, high up in the hills above downtown Rio. Most visitors tend to stay in or near the beach communities of Copacabana or Ipanema – I did that myself on a previous visit – so I decided to stay at a different neighbourhood this time and I didn’t regret it for a second! To start, Santa Teresa is an absolutely charming neighbourhood. Known as the Bohemian Quarter of Rio, Santa Teresa is full of art galleries, atmospheric restaurants and cafés, and magnificent historic mansions. Steep cobblestone roads wind through the neighbourhood, and through gaps between houses or the lush forest, stunning panoramas of Rio await. Casa Cool Beans was absolutely perfect for our chill time in Rio. Set amidst leafy gardens, the guesthouse has ten spacious rooms, a small pool and terrace. Colourful works by local artists adorn the walls, creating a cheery ambiance. Lance and his team took great care of us by telling us all about the neighbourhood, giving us lots of sightseeing tips and suggesting/arranging tours and restaurants.

Casa Cool Beans

Spacious room at Casa Cool Beans.

A stroll around Santa Teresa

We spent a day strolling around Santa Teresa to soak up the wonderful atmosphere and admire the beautiful mansions, some of which have been turned into hotels or restaurants and some are still in ruins. Our highlight was seeing the amazing tiled Escadaria Selarón or Selarón staircase. One could spend hours going through the thousands of colourful tiles from all over the world!

Colourful street art in Santa Teresa

Another colourful street in Santa Teresa – this restaurant, Bar do Mineiro, is a must!

Gorgeous graffiti in Santa Teresa.

Loved these two houses in Santa Teresa!

Some of the many mansions in Santa Teresa.

The stunning Selarón staircase.

Close-up of some of the many tiles along the staircase.

THE VIEW!

The following day, we visited the Christ Statue atop the Corcovado mountain. It was a bit of a wait to get up there – it’s a very popular attraction – but it was absolutely worth the wait. The views from the top were simply mind-blowing! No words can quite describe how awesome that view is.

The Christ Statue against the bright blue sky.

The panoramic view of Rio de Janeiro from Corcovado.

Melvin decided to spend the afternoon on a favela tour while I headed for the beach, first Copacabana, then Ipanema. The sun was shining bright and the temperature, at 24-26 degrees Celsius, was perfect! I laid on the beach and watched the beautiful people of Rio pass by. Oh what a sight!

The gorgeous white sands of Copacabana beach.

I chose to lie on the sands of Ipanema instead.

And the sunset at Ipanema was absolutely magical!

We didn’t leave Rio without having a few caiprinhas of course!

A trio of caipirinhas – passion fruit, lime (regular) and strawberry – at Barzin in Ipanema.

Our stay was way too short and we were sad to leave, but hey, I’m sure we’ll be back again one day soon!

The aerial views of Rio as the plane took off from Santos Dumont airport were phenomenal!

Rio, I’ll miss you! But I’ll be back soon… and that’s a promise!

Chilling in Rio is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Babylonstoren

A special guest post by Lezaan Roos.

Don’t ask me to compare Babylonstoren with other Cape Dutch farms. That would be tricky. For starters, it produces wine – a feature typical of estates. It offers a variety of unique food experiences, which could put it firmly in the restaurant category. It has a hotel, it’s a working farm – and at that farm’s heart, one of the most spectacular gardens the region has ever seen. Want even more? It has one of the best preserved farm yards (200 hectares) in the Cape Dutch tradition, dating back to the founding of the farm in 1690…

I could go on.

What is Babylonstoren?

So, enough with the comparing – but what is Babylonstoren? My answer would be: it’s one of those rare examples where “they got everything right”. In my opinion, it goes beyond a standard customer experience to become a winning example of excellent Service Design, from planning and organising people, infrastructure, communication (the interaction between Babylonstoren and its customers), and all the material components of a service striving to improve its effectiveness – the very definition of quality Service Design.

Good morning!

Every touch-point of the Babylonstoren experience has been geared to create “small moments of wonder” to fill your day with a magical, multifaceted experience, whether you’re lying in your hammock overlooking the vineyards, sitting in the Garden, making your own salad (with fruit & vegetables picked in said garden), sipping a cup of tea in the Green House after swimming in the old farm dam…it’s all been thought through, end to end, with an impressive thematic continuity.

Innovation is said to be “old ideas that have been made relevant”. This site’s user experience qualifies – uniquely offering modern design and a contemporary ethos, yet steeped in local cultural history and remaining entirely in keeping with its authentic farmyard roots and features. Babylonstoren elegantly reflects the lifestyle element of the South African Wine Destination experience, whilst offering so much more than wine.

My favourite Babylonstoren moments

1. My Cottage – A Cape Dutch farm building in a style dating back to the 17th / 18th Century – but only on the outside. Head indoors and you’re surrounded by modern design-work, which somehow doesn’t detract from the general feeling of coziness. You have the privacy to doze off in your hammock while watching the sun set over the vineyards – thanks to the roaring fire and my beyond-comfy hammock, it never took me long to do just that. The bathroom brings the modern design and natural surroundings into play with a glass strip that lets natural light in and gives you a view of the surrounding trees. For the technologically minded, it’s also worth mentioning the broadband – a feature of all the cottages, consistently fast, and totally free. I couldn’t have been more delighted.

Terrace at Babylonstoren.

My bathroom at Babylonstoren.

2. The Food – Meals are served in either Babel (the restaurant), the Tasting room (or ‘old blacksmith’s building’) or the greenhouse-cum-tearoom. The menu is inspired by the seasonal availability of ingredients, and served by the garden’s fresh produce. My own hearty dinner included a seared beef Carpaccio with parmisan watercress & a satsuma mustard dressing starter, and a homemade pizza with beetroot cured trout, creme fraiche and chives – all served in a rustic, moody (soft candle light) atmosphere.

Pizza at Babylonstoren

Babylonstoren is a working farm, and the food produced (fruit and vegetables, homemade bread, varieties of sausage and meat products, loaves etc.) is served in the restaurants and sold in the farm shop. The restaurants are open to day-trippers (as are the garden and wine tasting facilities), and, obviously, to staying guests.

Home-made bread and honey.

3. The Garden – There’s a lot of different activity centered around the Garden, and it’s difficult to summarise what it’s used for and what makes it so special. Perhaps it’s the setting – the backdrop of dramatic mountains and beautiful vineyards surrounding the farm, along with the beautiful onsite aesthetics. And of course there’s the nourishment factor – inspired by the Company Gardens of the Cape, where for centuries ships would replenish with sweet water and vegetables on their halfway station between Europe and Asia. The whole experience is enhanced by its proximity to the farm and its facilities.

View of the mountains and dams from the gardens.

4. The Website – It’s not often I’d include a website review in a travel experience, but in this instance the farm’s web presence is a joy and really adds to the experience before, during and after your stay. It reflects not only the simplicity of the Babylonstoren ethos through its design, but also the rich history that surrounds it (with a complete historical timeline, reflecting Bablyonstoren stories) through interesting supporting content. The associated blog continues the “farmyard feel” with regular updates on on-site events and is written in an engagingly inclusive way, as if you’re part of the family – which in a way you are, after your stay is over.

In summary: let me put my heart on my sleeve here.

Babylonstoren is the family you’ve always wanted, the farm house experience you’ve always dreamed of (that one with the ducks, donkeys, guinea-fowl walking around – the lot). The Garden will inspire you to create new culinary masterpieces. And last but far from least, it’s about hearty food, cooked to perfection and prepared with honesty and skill, that you just can’t stop eating. In a word – heavenly.

Babylon indeed.

Note: a big thank you goes to Skyscanner for sponsoring Lezaan’s flight to Cape Town.

Babylonstoren – a heavenly Cape Dutch wine farm is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A big smile and a glass of vino to start!

“Crisis? In Mercado de San Miguel, the crisis is far, far away”. I smiled. I knew exactly what she meant. I stood there, at the seafood tapas bar with my new friends, two Madrileñas. We clutched glasses of vino in our hands and we’d emptied two plates of spicy mussels. I looked around and she was absolutely right. The market was bustling with couples, families, groups of friends, business people and tourists. They stood at the tapas bars or at the larger tables, crowded around glasses of wine or cocktails and plates of delicious tapas. Everyone was having a fabulous time chatting and laughing. Spain’s dire economic and financial problems seemed like worlds away. As for me, I started sporting a big smile on my face the minute I walked in. This place, in the heart of Madrid, is one big, happy Mercado!

Exploring Mercado de San Miguel

Mercado de San Miguel, located a stone’s throw from the Plaza Mayor in Madrid, is not a market in the strict sense of the word. It is, in fact, more like a big deli with numerous tapas and dessert bars, and wine sellers. A large collection of tapas bars and stalls sell all sorts of meats, cheeses, seafood, cakes, desserts, wines, coffees and teas.

Mercado de San Miguel

Locals and tourists mingle

It can be quite overwhelming when you enter the Mercado as it quite literally sends your senses into overdrive. I got myself a glass of wine and sat on one of the bar stools and watched the many happy faces around me. After a few minutes, I went on a stroll, glass of wine in hand, to check out the many stalls. I started with a small cone of Jamón Iberico (Iberico ham). After that first bite of the flavourful ham, I knew it – I was going to have a terrific afternoon! I met my new friends at the seafood bar and we spent the rest of the afternoon going from one bar to the other, tasting spicy mussels, tender pulpo (octopus), bite-sized hot-dogs, more ham and little desserts. Everything tasted absolutely divine.

Seafood tapas at Mercado de San Miguel

Crisps, sausages and hams served in cones.

Cheese platter

Mini hotdogs

Cocktails!

Cakes, desserts and more smiles!

It was an unforgettable afternoon. I went back two more times, and each time, I met another local and was introduced to yet another type of ham, specially-prepared seafood or a different wine. There are many things to do and see in Madrid but the Mercado de San Miguel is a must-visit – at least in my book! It’s a fantastic foodie experience and a great place to mingle with the locals. I’m quite sure you’ll leave feeling pretty happy, like I did!

One big happy Mercado is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A sea of red tulips

A blaze of colour!

A path through the tulip fields.

 See other Velvet Moments.

Velvet Moments: travel photo – a sea of tulips is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Inside the Monarch Hotel

I’d just arrived in Johannesburg after an amazing trip to the four-country region – Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia – where I stayed on the gorgeous Zambezi Queen, went on safaris in the Chobe National Park and experienced the mighty Victoria Falls. It was an action-packed trip and I needed to chill. I stepped out of the taxi onto the pavement of busy Oxford Road in the suburb of Rosebank. In front of me stood the stately Monarch Hotel.

The doors opened and Jan, the manager, walked out to greet me. Jan welcomed me with a cocktail in the beautiful lounge. I sat on the plush sofa and looked around at the lavish surroundings: high ceilings, paneled walls, brass banisters and marble flooring. I loved how the classic interior was cleverly mixed with dashes of contemporary flair, creating a royal, avant-garde ambiance. As I explored the hotel, I noticed that this terrific blend of styles was consistent throughout, from the public areas to the suites.

The Monarch Hotel is housed in the old Saxonwold Post Office, a national monument, and has twelve elegant suites. My suite was seriously posh. Everything oozed elegance, from the classic furniture to the rich fabrics, soft carpet, high thread-count cottons and the stand-alone bath-tub.

The living area of my suite at the Monarch Hotel

My bedroom!

The bathroom!

Despite its stately appearance, I felt very much at home. That fine balance can only be achieved with impeccable service but the clever interior and amenities definitely played a role. In the following days, I observed how Jan and his staff went out of their way to make sure their guests were comfortable and well looked after. A sincere smile was never far away and they were never too busy for a casual chat or to attend to their guests’ needs.

The elegant lounge – loved that ‘royal owl’!

The dining room – classic elegance with a dash of contemporary flair.

Another gorgeous lounge in the hotel.

The Rosebank neighbourhood in which the hotel is situated is undoubtedly one of Johannesburg’s poshest areas. I explored the nearby Rosebank and The Zone malls, with their exclusive boutiques, alfresco cafés, restaurants and bars. There’s also the Rosebank Gautrain station across the road from the hotel – the comfortable trains provide direct access to the airport and other parts of Johannesburg, including the Central Business District.

I spent my late-afternoons simply relaxing with a glass of wine on the lovely garden terrace behind the hotel; my idea of chill! Needless to say, I had a fabulous, very royal stay at the Monarch Hotel. It’s absolutely perfect for both business and leisure visitors to Johannesburg, and I have no doubt the staff will take very good care of every guest who passes through those beautiful brass doors.

Note: a very big thank you goes to the Mantis Group and Monarch Hotel for your incredible hospitality. As always, views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

A royal stay in Johannesburg is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Széchenyi Bath

A trip to Budapest will not be complete without a visit to at least one of its historic thermal baths. It’s said that the Romans settled in the area because of the abundance of thermal springs – I would too! The first Roman baths were constructed around the 2nd century AD but it wasn’t till the Turks occupied the city in the 16th century that the city’s most beautiful baths were built and the thermal bath culture blossomed. The baths quickly became a place to relax and socialise but were also used for wellness purposes: the spring water contains medicinal qualities and locals also visited the baths for massage treatments.

Medicinal qualities

I was going through a rather stressful period when I visited Budapest for the first time in the 1990′s. My busy banking job was taking its toll on me and I developed stomach ulcers which were excruciating at times. I’d read somewhere that the thermal springs in Budapest are known to alleviate all sorts of ailments so I visited several baths. I drank big gulps of water at the Lukács and Rudas baths and lo and behold, my ulcers miraculously disappeared after a few days. I’m not a doctor and I have no idea what medicinal qualities the water contains but it certainly helped me.

I visited other baths on subsequent trips to Budapest such as the Gellért, Széchenyi and Király baths. Each has its own history, style, customs and architecture. Some baths are for mixed bathing (men, women and children) whilst some, like the Rudas bath has specific opening times for men, women and families. Here are my three favourite thermal baths in Budapest:

Rudas Bath

Built by the Turks in the 16th century, Rudas is one of the oldest baths in Budapest. I personally find it one of the most atmospheric. Sitting in the central bathing area is like taking a step back in time. A large dome with rays of light streaming through little holes is supported by eight columns and beautiful arches. The stunning dome covers the main pool which is octagonal in shape. In each corner of the hall are pools with different temperatures. There’s also a series of steam rooms which get hotter as you go further. The bath also offers a variety of spa and massage treatments.

Rudas bath (image courtesy of Romuald le Peru)

Széchenyi Bath

The Széchenyi Bath is arguably one of the most beautiful and elaborate thermal bathing complexes in Budapest. Built in 1913, the complex resembles a palace and there are both indoor and outdoor pools. This is the bath that’s often featured in many photos and brochures – the famous scenes of elderly men playing chess in the water – and rightfully so. It certainly is an impressive sight. Both locals and tourists mingle in the many pools, each with a different temperature. There are separate areas for spa and medicinal treatments.

The Szechenyi Bath – the outdoor pools

Gellért Bath

If you love Art Nouveau architecture, you’ll love the Gellért Baths. The bath/hotel complex was built in 1918 and expanded in the 1920′s and 1930′s. Like its counterpart Széchenyi, the Gellért is an elaborate complex with indoor and outdoor pools (there’s even a wave pool!). The interior, with its gorgeous mosaics, marble columns and stained glass windows, is absolutely breathtaking.

The Gellért Bath – main indoor pool.

There are often queues to enter the popular baths like Széchenyi and Gellért so if you wish to skip the queues, I recommend purchasing advance tickets. These are a bit more expensive than the tickets at the door but they’re worth every penny, especially on a busy day. You can purchase these tickets at your hotel.

Search for hotels in Budapest.

Read about the ‘most beautiful café in the world‘ in Budapest and a bar you shouldn’t miss!

The historic baths of Budapest is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

My private limo in Berlin!

UBER. I’d never heard of it until my recent trip to Berlin. I was handed several discount vouchers and decided to give them a try one evening. After a long day out on the town, the idea of my very own private limousine to take me back to my accommodation sounded very appealing. I downloaded the UBER app on my iPhone and set up my profile in minutes. A map showed me exactly where I was and how long it would take for the nearest driver to reach me. Six minutes! I hit ‘Request Black Car’ in an instant. I received a text message within seconds announcing that the car was on its way. This included the car’s license plate and the name of the driver. Several minutes later, I received another message saying that my driver would be arriving shortly. Moments after I received that message, the limo pulled up and the driver stepped out to open the door for me. That was simply the coolest way to order a taxi!

That first ride got me hooked – the limo was a very spacious and supremely comfortable black Mercedes S3 with a driver smartly suited up. Very classy! Inside, I found plush leather seats, tinted windows and complimentary bottles of water. The driver dropped me off at my doorstep and that was it. There was no need to fumble around for cash. It’s billed directly to my credit card. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I received another message to tell me how much the ride had cost – I’d already asked the driver but it was cool to get a confirmation. I later received a receipt via email, showing a detailed breakdown of the cost, a map outlining the route, how many kilometers it was and how long it took! I knew it there and then… I’ll be using UBER again for sure!

Your on-demand private driver

The UBER app

UBER is an on-demand private driver service. To get started, simply download the app – available for both iPhone and Android phones – and set up your profile, including your credit card details. Verify your account and you’re good to go. It’s dead easy.

To request an UBER driver, launch the app. A pin on a map immediately shows you your location. You can move the pin to a specific spot or enter an address as your pick-up point. The app will also tell you how long it’ll take for the nearest UBER driver to reach you. It also allows you to punch in your destination and receive an estimate of the fare. Once you request a driver, you’ll be notified of the car’s license plate and the driver’s name. You can easily look up all your previous trips on your profile page – this includes maps of your trips and the costs.

I absolutely loved the convenience of ordering a driver via the app. The notification services are a great touch – you know exactly when the driver will arrive. I ended up using the UBER service almost every day when I was in Berlin. The Mercedes and Audi sedans were very comfortable. Despite the exclusive feel of the service and the luxurious cars, the service doesn’t cost a lot more than a normal taxi. I was expecting double the rates of a taxi but it was closer to a third more. That’s not a bad surcharge for the extra comforts and convenience.

The UBER service is available in numerous cities in North America, Europe, Australia and Asia such as Amsterdam, Berlin, Milan, London, Paris, New York, Chicago, San Francisco, Seattle, Singapore, Melbourne and Sydney – there’s a list of the cities on the site/app. If you’re interested in testing the UBER service, sign up with my ubervelvetescape promo code and get a EUR/USD/GBP 10 discount on your first ride.

Note: UBER provided me with several discount vouchers during my stay in Berlin. I used them all as I absolutely love this cool service. My enthusiasm expressed above is a true reflection of how I felt about this service.

UBER cool and oh so classy! is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A snowy Amsterdam

It’s spring now yet snow continues to fall from thick grey clouds and the mercury is barely above the freezing point. Please wrap up the snow clouds, blow some warmth into the air, bring out the sun, and let the birds sing and the flowers bloom. Please.

Tulip fields in North Holland

Keukenhof garden, Holland

Birds busy in spring

I, and millions of people, will be so grateful for some warmth, sunny skies and a splash of colour. We’re more than ready for it.

THANK YOU! – I hope my simple request is answered very soon.

Dear Weather Gods… is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Welcome Home Mr. Jenkins!

I recently had a conversation with several fellow bloggers about what distinguishes a luxury hotel from its peers. We exchanged notes about our stays in hotels and resorts around the world and we quickly concluded that it’s the small touches and the attentiveness of the staff that make the difference. There was a time when calling a guest by his/her name, offering bed linens with a high thread-count or remembering a guest’s preferences (for cocktails or how the guest likes his/her coffee/tea, etc…) was sufficient. These days, many high-end hotels go out of their way to make a guest feel welcome, and there are some which excel in providing those small, personalised touches. The hotel’s location, its interior, quality of service (attentive but not intrusive), and facilities (such as free WIFI) are important factors for most travellers but it’s the little details that can make a stay exceptional, and create wonderful memories that linger for years.

The small touches I’ll never forget

I thought of my own travels and the numerous experiences I’ve had at various hotels and resorts. There are some moments I’ll never forget; the small touches that made me smile in wonder and about which I can’t stop talking about. Here are five of them:

Impressed! – Four Seasons Hotel Amman
My first special moment occurred just twenty minutes after my arrival at the Four Seasons Amman. After checking out my room, I decided to go down to the bar for a nightcap. The bartender approached me with a smile and asked “Good evening Mr. Jenkins, would you like to see our drinks menu?”. I looked up at the waiter with an expression of pure amazement. How did he know my name? I experienced another ‘wow’ moment the next day. After a long trip to the north of Jordan, I returned to my room only to find my shirts ironed and hanging in the closet, and my sunglasses (which I’d forgotten) had been polished and left atop the writing table on a fresh cloth. I was impressed! Read about my stay at the Four Seasons Amman.

My polished sunglasses!

A farewell touch that lingers – Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
I stayed at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong for several days. Upon my arrival, I was treated to a private tea ceremony in my room – a wonderful welcome! The best touch was yet to come. On my final day, I received a voucher for a gift I could collect at the Shanghai Tang store at the airport. After checking in for my flight and clearing immigrations, I headed straight for the Shanghai Tang store. I handed in the voucher and was given a colourful little box in return. I opened it to find a little perfume bottle. The lady at the counter explained that it was a scent for the home. I sprayed it into the air and my thoughts immediately drifted back to the Mandarin Oriental – it was the same tea scent I’d smelled in the hotel’s corridors. Another amazing touch and a beautiful memento of my stay at this exceptional hotel. Read my posts about Hong Kong.

The little tea ceremony

Sunset cocktails – Sofitel Motu Bora Bora
I’ll never forget the Sofitel Motu Bora Bora. Situated on a private island in the Bora Bora lagoon, the resort offers breathtaking views of the crystal-clear lagoon and Mount Otemanu. My favourite time of day was just before sunset when the resort’s staff would appear at the doorstep of my overwater bungalow with complimentary cocktails and canapés. They would serve it on the deck and I would sit, legs dangling over the edge of the deck, cocktail in hand and watch hundreds of tropical fish, baby sharks and rays swim past. Unforgettable! Read about my trip to Bora Bora.

The view from the deck of the Sofitel Private Island overwater bungalows

Bedtime – Ritz Carlton Kuala Lumpur
This is undoubtedly one of my favourite hotels in Kuala Lumpur. At the Ritz Carlton Kuala Lumpur, guests are taken care of by their personal butler. My favourite touch was experienced at bedtime. Chocolates and macaroons awaited me on the bedside table. As I was about to lay my head on the pillow, I noticed something very cool on the pillow: my initials embroidered into the pillow case! You bet I took that pillow case home with me – after checking with the staff of course. Read my posts about Kuala Lumpur.

My initials on the pillow case

Screens – Shangri-La Hotel Toronto
Shangri-La Hotel Toronto has one of the best bathrooms I’ve ever seen. Heated marble floors, mirrors that never steam up and a television screen embedded in the mirror (I could watch the morning news as I brushed my teeth)! I’d never seen anything like it before. Another screen that truly impressed me was that of the iPad (that’s provided in every room). From this screen, I could access all the hotel’s services and more, such as ordering room service, requesting information from the concierge, arranging a spa treatment or checking out the restaurants’ menus. Convenient and oh so elegant! Read about my stay at the Shangri-La Toronto.

The TV screen in the bathroom mirror

Impressed? I sure was. There are many more examples of exceptional service and attention to details. If you’ve experienced great service at any hotel/resort around the world, feel free to share your experience in the comments section below.

Luxury is in the details is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The crumpled London tube map that resides in my jacket pocket!

The Beefeater, Big Ben and the dome of St Paul’s are all icons of London recognised by everyone. But there’s another icon of the city that every Londoner knows, though perhaps they don’t think of it that way – the Underground map.

Look at one of the early tube maps and what you’ll see is an unstructured mess of lines like a plate of coloured spaghetti or a piece of crochet destroyed by a pet cat. It wasn’t until graphical designer Harry Beck took it in charge that we got the rational, sleek layout of the modern tube map, where every line runs vertically, horizontally or at a 45 degree diagonal, a bit like an electrical circuit diagram. It’s instantly recognisable; you can even get t-shirts with the tube map printed on them.

The British Waterways Board has done a ‘tube map’ style chart of London’s rivers and canals, the buses have pinched the idea and Amsterdam’s GVB even gives credit to London Transport as the inspiration behind its own map [note from Keith: yep, they sure do! It's in all the Amsterdam metro's].

It really is part of the culture and Londoners love their tube map. In 2009, the River Thames was removed from the map – an immediate outcry ensured. Later that year, the Thames was back!

Quirky versions of the London Tube Map

There are so many versions. Simon Patterson’s The Great Bear in Tate Modern affectionately parodies the tube map but instead of stations, the lines connect the names of famous people. The Royal Shakespeare Company once produced a Shakespeare tube map and Dr Max Roberts of the University of Essex has worked on a number of reinterpretations from curvy to Arts & Crafts style. There’s even a new tube map that tries to reconcile geographical accuracy with Beck-like simplicity by Mark Noad.

London curvy Tube Map (image courtesy of Annie Mole)

But of course the tube isn’t the only thing you’ll want to navigate. And London has been mapped for centuries well before the tube was even conceived.

Historic maps of London

John Speed’s map of 1611 shows only the City of London – there were still patches of green fields between the City and Westminster (which has its own separate map) – and the whole of the south bank, or pretty nearly, is occupied by fields and orchards, with just a straggly fringe of houses along the river and along Borough High Street, the main road to Canterbury. Just as interesting as the map is the little view of St Paul’s from the river, with London Bridge, the Tower of London, and right in the foreground, the drum-like shapes of two theatres – one is the original Globe. It’s a colourful vision and full of interest.

John Speed’s map of London (image courtesy of Occidental College).

John Rocque’s map of London is quite different; its fine black and white engraving reflects the values of the Augustan age – the age of Reason. It was published in 1747 after ten years of work and is an incredibly detailed masterpiece. You can see the trees of Gray’s Inn gardens marching in their regular lines, the three-masted ships at anchor by London Bridge and every tiny alleyway of the City and the Inns of Court. The stippling of the blocks and the finely-etched capital letters suggest that London has at last been reduced to a rational plan; but the street names show a different, older and rougher London – Antelope Alley, Blowbladder Street, Chitterling Alley, Do Little Alley, Labour in Vain Yard and my favourite, Dirty Lane.

Rocque’s map of London (image from Wikipedia)

The Crumpled City Junior map of London by Palomar couldn’t be more different from Rocque’s. Vivid colour replaces his chaste black and white and there are jolly cartoon images to amuse children, rather than the serious-minded exactitude of Rocque’s surveying. It’s a map intended to arouse interest and excitement, rather than to depict accurate geography (there’s also one important benefit that John Rocque couldn’t offer; the Crumpled City map is waterproof).

Still another view is that of the artist’s map. Stephen Walter’s The Island is a deeply personal view of London by a Londoner, gently mocking the London-centric view of the universe by making the capital an island in an English ‘sea’. It’s full of personal observations, as well as visual puns like a swaybacked Elephant at Elephant and Castle and historical references; Walter celebrates the Tottenham Outrage of 1909 and the anti-fascist campaigners of Cable Street, but also notes in Hoxton, “Nathan Barley documentary shot here”. Other annotations include “eye-sore,” “striptease zone”, “Little Turkey” (Stoke Newington), “Nonconformists, lesbians, prams” (also Stoke Newington), and “Surplus store still here!”

And just so you know, Hoxton and Shoreditch, cool home of artists and media people, is ornamented with the annotation “Beware of being a twat.”

Themed maps of London

Some aspects of London are worthy of a map in themselves. One is London’s orchards; there are very few in the City and West End (this map misses out the mulberry trees in Draper’s Gardens, near the Bank of England, though they’re not properly speaking an orchard I suppose), but there’s a surprising cluster on the South Bank, including the Archbishop’s Park orchard in Lambeth, planted just two years ago.

London orchards map (from the London Orchards Project)

But take a look at the historic orchards map on the same site and you can see what has been lost – the whole of south London was once covered with orchards, so that the Google maps markers look like clusters of grapes hanging from the Thames like a vine.

London is not only its maps, of course. But every map is a different way of seeing the capital – a different experience of it or a different way of trying to make sense of it. Whether it’s as scientific and exact as Roque’s or as personal and opinionated as Walter’s, it’s huge fun to look at London through its maps.

This was a guest post written by Andrea Kirkby, who likes to stay in the London luxury suites of the Milestone Hotel when she is exploring London.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

A view of London through its maps is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Vineyard in Nova Scotia

“Wines of Nova Scotia?!?!… There’s a wine industry in Nova Scotia?” Those were my exact words when I was told about Nova Scotia’s numerous wineries. I was very surprised. However, as I explored the province, there were many factors that made the idea of a wine industry in Nova Scotia less surprising. One factor blew me away: I discovered that Nova Scotia lies on the same latitude as famous wine regions such as Bordeaux and the Rhone valley – I had no idea! In addition, Nova Scotia has substantial French and German communities which settled in this area centuries ago. In fact, French settlers started growing grapes for wine in Nova Scotia as far back as the 17th century. However, the harsh climate and rudimentary methods made the production of fine wines almost impossible and the wine industry disappeared from Nova Scotia for several centuries. In the 1980′s, bolstered by improvements in wine production methods and a better understanding of the soil and climate, the first vineyards for commercial wine production began to re-appear in Nova Scotia, starting with the Domaine de Grand Pré winery. In the past five years, the wine industry has grown in leaps and bounds, producing many award-winning whites and sparkling wines.

A wine tour of Nova Scotia

As I toured the province, I made it a point to stop at various vineyards, especially those in the Annapolis and Gaspereau Valleys. The unique soil and mesoclimates of Nova Scotia are ideal for the production of Nova Scotia’s signature grapes such as the crisp L’Acadie Blanc. I also enjoyed the smooth and aromatic New York Muscat. The wineries of Nova Scotia have also developed their unique appellation: Tidal Bay. This fresh, crisp white is now produced by a variety of vineyards and is the perfect pairing for the province’s delicious seafood. The province has also become famous for its sparkling wines (great as an aperitif or with oysters) and ice wines (as an aperitif).

Tidal Bay from Domaine de Grand Pré

Nova Scotian wines are the perfect pairing with the province’s delicious seafood!

Some of the wineries I visited included Domaine de Grand Pré, Luckett Vineyards and Lacadie Vineyards (the producer of award-winning sparkling white wines).

Domaine de Grand Pré – Nova Scotia’s oldest winery

Wine-tasting at Domaine de Grand Pré

Luckett Vineyards

more wine-tasting… this time at Luckett Vineyards.

The award-winning sparkling wines from Lacadie Vineyards.

Tasting the fresh, crisp sparkling whites of Lacadie Vineyards

My favourite winery is also Nova Scotia’s oldest: Domaine de Grand Pré. Located in the verdant Annapolis Valley, it’s a beautiful vineyard that’s also home to a terrific restaurant (Le Caveau). I enjoyed a delicious lunch consisting of scallops and Atlantic haddock (fish & chips style). I highly recommend this vineyard for a lazy lunch, especially on a sunny day!

Domaine de Grand Pré

A fab lunch spot on a summer day: Le Caveau at Domaine de Grand Pré.

Gorgeous scallops at le Caveau

I’d not heard about Nova Scotia’s wines before my visit to the province. What I discovered certainly impressed me. Despite the challenging climate and soil, the locals, through laborious research and endless determination, have succeeded in producing unique award-winning wines. To me, this is simply one more great reason to visit Nova Scotia. One more tip: when choosing your Nova Scotian wines, look out for the ‘Wines of Nova Scotia’ label (a lobster claw holding a glass of wine). This label is a guarantee that the wine was 100% produced from locally-grown grapes. Visit the Winery Association of Nova Scotia for more information.

Read other posts on Nova Scotia by Velvet Escape:

• How to Eat a Fresh Lobster
• A Stroll Along the Halifax Waterfront
• The Colours of Lunenburg
• Picnic at the Bay of Fundy

The wines of Nova Scotia is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A snowy Amsterdam

Read Velvet Escape posts about Amsterdam.

Velvet Moments: travel photo – snowy canal in Amsterdam is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A typical English bookshop (image courtesy of Mooganic)

A trip to a good bookstore is about more than just picking up a new novel: you’ll understand if you’ve ever stepped foot in one. These are the places where the shelves are packed from floor to ceiling with interesting titles, the booksellers themselves are knowledgeable, friendly and likely to know better than you what it is that you’re looking for, plus there is an atmosphere that makes you feel comfortable enough to browse for hours. And a good bookstore, of course, offers well-placed comfortable chairs, which you can sink into, new book in hand, surrounded by the smell of fresh coffee.

The sad truth is that with the prevalence of internet bookstores places like this are in danger of dying out – in fact approximately half of UK bookstores have closed in the last decade. So if you believe in the pleasure of browsing free from Amazon’s ‘suggested titles’, with the chance that you might just discover something new, then read on.

In this post from Jill at Latitude 50 we’ll introduce you to six of the best bookshops in the UK, where you can reclaim the simple pleasure of a trip to a good book shop…

St Ives Bookseller, Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall

Tucked away in a narrow street in the pretty seaside town of St Ives, is the St Ives Bookseller. This is a true independent bookshop, filled with solid oak bookcases, which are in turn crammed with and a wide range of fiction, children’s, local interest titles and more. The staff are ever-friendly and the shop also hosts a programme of regular book signings and events to keep their customers rolling in though the doors. It certainly seems to be working, as the St Ives Bookseller was the proud winner of the 2012 South West regional prize for Independent Bookseller of the Year. What’s best about this shop is it’s just seconds from the beach, so, after you’ve enjoyed its inner delights, you can amble down to the sea and enjoy a few hours relaxing to the sound of seagulls and waves, with your new title safely in hand.

St. Ives (image courtesy of Karen Roe)

Blackwell’s Bookshop, Broad Street, Oxford, Oxfordshire

A true institution in the city of Oxford, Blackwell’s Bookshop offers room upon room of beautiful books that will keep any booklover entranced for hours. The shop also has a particularly good selection of rare, collectable and antiquarian titles, which attracts customers from all over the world. It’s not unlikely that you may bump into a famous literary face here either, as author Ian McEwan is a regular visitor to the store and Phillip Pullman, the creator of Northern Lights lives just minutes away. The shop is surrounded by some of Oxfords most famous colleges, as well as being a stone’s throw from the magnificent Bodleian Library, which all make for excellent sight-seeing afterwards.

Broad Street, Oxford – Blackwell’s is on the right (image courtesy of Dick Penn)

Booka Bookshop, Church Street, Oswestry, Shropshire

Booka Bookshop (image courtesy of Shropshire & Telford)

This wonderful Shropshire bookshop was voted on of the Top 50 bookshops in the country by The Independent – and it’s no surprise why. Along with a great selection of books, Booka Bookshop has a fabulous café, serving fairtrade coffee, tea and delicious homemade cakes – their sticky lemon drizzle takes a bit of beating! With events happening as often as weekly, it’s a bustling, busy, bookshop that is very much a part of the community, plus love the idea of their ‘Book and a Beer Book Club’, which anyone is welcome to join!

The Society Club, Soho, London

Bookshop, performance venue and gallery, The Society Club in Soho offers more than just the chance to pick up a great read. In fact, it also serves classic cocktails and welcomes dogs! It’s very eccentric and great fun. The owners also offer a ‘Book Hunting Service’ where they will search out hard-to-find titles for their customers and are always on hand to give suggestions. This is a quirky place to while away an afternoon – though you’ll probably spend more time enjoying the people watching, than you will reading.

Sam Read Bookseller, Grasmere, Lake District

This very old bookshop has been trading in the picturesque village of Grasmere in the Lake District since 1887. Sam Read Bookseller is almost always open, warm and inviting and it seems ready for a customer at any time. In an area with connections to Wordsworth, Coleridge and the Romantics, John Ruskin, Beatrix Potter and Arthur Ransome it’s no surprise really that it’s survived but it would be unfair to attribute it’s success solely to it’s location. Read’s stocks everything from the latest releases, to modern classics, as well as having an impressive selection of modern poetry. As the store is a stone’s throw from Dove Cottage and the birthplace of modern Romanticism it would be a shame not to make a visit there too.

Grasmere

Browsers, The Thoroughfare, Woodbridge, Suffolk

This newly decorated bookstore in Suffolk is the clearly the project of true booklovers. Browsers is small in size but full of fantastic reads, with the ideal atmosphere for some seriously relaxed browsing. It has helpful, unobtrusive staff, who know their stock and are proud of it but also don’t mind if you just want to come in and take a look around. Don’t leave without visiting the café, which serves a range of scrumptious homemade cakes – all made with recipes taken from their own selection of cookery books! They also have a Children’s bookshop just over the road, so you can set the kids free in there before settling down to a good browse yourself. Bliss.

If you have been inspired to make a visit to one of these fabulous UK bookstores, why not team up a visit with some great accommodation and a weekend exploring a new corner of the country. Sometimes it’s the simple pleasures that can be most refreshing – we assure you you’ll come home feeling reconnected and inspired, with some great new titles to add to your own library.

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with Latitude 50.

A bookstore tour of England is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Caipirinhas for two (image courtesy of Adrien)

Caipirinha!

It’s Brazil’s national cocktail: a wicked mix of lime, sugar, cachaça (sugar cane liquor) and lots of ice. I remember my first trip to Brazil in 1998 when I went on a sailing trip near Rio de Janeiro. I was one of three foreigners on the boat and we had a blast, all thanks to two quintessential Brazilian products: caipirinha and the samba! We drank, sang and danced till sunset. I couldn’t stop dancing, even after the samba band stopped playing – the caipirinha had me firmly in its grip. Haha! It’s one experience I won’t easily forget.

On my last trip to Foz de Iguaçu in Brazil, I was shown how this famous cocktail is made. And really, it’s dead easy. Watch and learn:

There’s something about cocktails that taste like lemonade – you can never tell how many you’ve had. I must’ve had quite a few because at the end of the day, I was convinced I knew the words to Brazil’s national anthem! Good thing there wasn’t a samba band anywhere around. Haha!

Note: A big thank you goes to Loumar Turismo, the premier tour operator to the Iguassu Falls, and Hotel Bella Italia for hosting me in Foz do Iguaçu.

How to make a caipirinha is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Flylite

Ok, I’m standing at the gate with my carry-on bag, waiting to board my flight when an airline staff approaches me. After a quick check, I’m told that my bag is a tad too big and I have to check it in… and there’s a fee for that. I would then argue that I’ve used this bag many times before and there was never a problem and I would receive the same response: each airline has different requirements. This has happened to me several times and, yes, it’s annoying. About a month ago, I was approached by FlyLite, a manufacturer of lightweight luggage who asked me to test their product. I don’t often do product reviews but considering my experiences, this was one product I certainly wanted to try.

I opted for the MultiBag Foldaway Wheeled Cabin Holdall (wow, that’s a mouthful!). It arrived in a small, neat package and I stared at it for a while. It was so small and light!

My Flylite bag folded up.

Along with the bag came instructions and a list of airlines. The bag could be changed into six different size configurations. The list shows you how to alter the bag’s size depending on which airline you’re flying with! For instance, according to the list, KLM has a cabin bag size limit of 55 x 35 x 25. For this configuration, the bag’s left and right zips should be closed and the centre zip open. Brilliant!

List of airlines and their cabin luggage limits.

I soon had the opportunity to take my new bag for a spin… in Madrid. It certainly is lighter than my Samsonite carry-on luggage – which exceeds 8kgs with a laptop, a pair of shoes, toiletries and a few pieces of clothing. My Flylite bag was more than a kilo lighter with the same items. Thumbs up for that. Aside from a small external compartment (a folded A4-size paper fits snugly into that space), there are no other compartments. I would have preferred a separate sleeve for my laptop/iPad to keep it in place.

All packed and ready to go!

What I really liked about the bag is the fact that you can roll it around on wheels or carry it as a backpack – I like these options as there’s no pleasure in dragging your bag on an unpaved surface or even worse, a muddy field. The telescopic handle and the wheels are sufficiently sturdy and handled Madrid’s streets with ease.

On a whole, I’m very pleased with my new Flylite MultiBag Foldaway Wheeled Cabin Holdall. It’s light and strong, and the various size configuration options are very handy. Would I recommend it? Absolutely! I always try to travel as often as possible with only a carry-on so this bag is perfect!

Note: Flylite provided the bag for my review. As always, opinions expressed above are mine, and mine only.

How to Flylite is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Civitella del Tronto

The last fortress

The 500 meter long fortress, the second largest of its kind in Europe after the fortress in Salzburg, is certainly an impressive sight and can be seen from miles away. Strategically located between the Kingdom of Naples and the Papal States, the town played a key role in the political affairs of the Italian peninsula in the 13th – 16th centuries. In the 19th century, the fortress was the scene of the last stand of the Kingdom of Naples against the armies of Garibaldi and Piedmont. The fall of the fortress in 1861 cleared the way for the unification and creation of the Kingdom of Italy.

The imposing walls of the fortress

These days, Civitella del Tronto (map) is a sleepy town with beautiful houses and quaint cobbled streets. The mighty fortress stands proudly above the town and is now a museum. The views of the verdant hills and the awe-inspiring Gran Sasso mountains from the fortress are absolutely stunning! Scroll down for a photo tour of Civitella del Tronto.

Inside the fortress. Join a guided tour to hear about the tempestuous history of Civitella and its fortress

The rooftops of Civitella del Tronto seen from the fortress

The main street in Civitella del Tronto

Civitella also claims to have the narrowest lane in Italy. I had to walk sideways in some parts!

Around Civitella del Tronto

Civitella is the perfect base for those wishing to explore the region – with its impressive mountains, expansive forests and picturesque medieval towns, not to mention its gorgeous food and wines (think Montepulciano d’Abruzzo!), there’s lots to see and do in the province of Teramo. In addition, the Adriatic coast is less than an hour away. I visited two gorgeous towns near Civitella which I can recommend: Campli, close to Civitella and famous for its Holy Staircase (one of two in Italy; the other is its famous twin in Rome) and porchetta (roast pork); and Ascoli Piceno, a medieval town with a beautiful square and ditto churches.

The Holy Staircase in Campli

The Santa Maria Curch in Campli

The stunning ceiling in the Santa Maria Church

The beautiful travertine-paved Piazza del Popolo in Ascoli Piceno

Inside the breathtaking Cathedral of Ascoli Piceno

You can also drive one of the many scenic routes around the Gran Sasso mountains or hike in the Gran Sasso & Monti della Laga National Park. The mountain views are simply astounding!

The mighty Gran Sasso peaks in Abruzzo

Italy wouldn’t be Italy if there was no wine involved! There are various wine routes in the vicinity of Civitella. One of my favourite wineries is the Illuminati Estate. Located in the northeastern corner of Abruzzo, this winery is one of the biggest in the area and the surrounding scenery is simply gorgeous.

Vineyards in Abruzzo

Wine station at the Illuminati estate – bring your own barrel/bottles, fill them up with the wine of your choice and have a party!

Where to stay in Civitella del Tronto

There are several accommodation options in and around Civitella del Tronto but the one I highly recommend is Hotel Zunica 1880. The rooms are very spacious and the ones in the front boast jaw-dropping views of the green valley below and the Gran Sasso mountains. It was a joy to wake up every morning to that stunning panorama!

Hotel Zunica 1880

The view of the verdant hills and snow-capped Gran Sasso mountains from my room window at Hotel Zunica 1880

The hotel also has arguably one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the region, showcasing local Abruzzo specialties and wines. It sure was grand to return to the hotel after a full-day of exploring the area and enjoy a terrific meal.

The classy restaurant at Hotel Zunica 1880

Abruzzo simply blew me away with its unspoilt natural beauty and countless cultural and historical attractions. Add to that its sumptuous cuisine and delicious wines, and the fact that Abruzzo is still relatively off-the-beaten-track, and you have a fine destination just waiting to be discovered! If you do choose to visit Abruzzo, don’t miss the lovely fortress town of Civitella del Tronto.

The fortress town of Civitella del Tronto is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Royal Palace seen from Plaza de Oriente

Madrid, the capital of Spain and the country’s largest city, is one of my favourite European capitals. With its grand architecture, majestic palaces, stunning museums and broad tree-lined avenues, it ranks right up amongst Europe’s great capitals like Paris and Vienna, at least in my book. What distinguishes Madrid from the other European capitals is its unique flair. You’ll see and feel it the minute you start exploring its streets. There’s nothing quite like it anywhere in the world. I fell in love with Madrid the first time I visited the city in 1992. Recently, I had the opportunity to rediscover the reasons why I love this city. Without further ado, here are ten things to do in Madrid.

1. WALK – Despite being Spain’s largest city, Madrid is perfect for visitors, like me, who love to explore a place on foot. The city centre is very compact, with the major sights such as the Royal Palace, the Plaza Mayor and Prado Museum all within walking distance (10-20 minutes) of each other. Madrid’s compact composition is due to King Philip IV who built a fence around the city in 1625. The fence forced the city to grow inwards instead of outwards and it wasn’t torn down until 1868. This fence, even though it doesn’t exist anymore, defines Madrid’s current city centre.

Plaza Mayor

There really is no better way to explore this fascinating city and its colourful neighbourhoods. To get a great overview of the city, head for City Hall. Housed in an impressive cathedral-like palace (Cibeles Palace), this building alone is worth a visit. Buy a ticket for the ‘mirador’ for amazing views of the city. After you’ve taken in the view, choose any of the neighbourhoods to explore: classy Retiro and Salamanca, bustling Centro, atmospheric La Latina or trendy Chueca. As you walk around, take note of the gorgeous mix of architectural styles, from neo-Classical to Renaissance and neo-Gothic. I especially love the wrought-iron balconies that can be found throughout the city.

A forest of shadows in a Madrid street

2. Get your arty fix – Madrid is home to some of the most well-known museums in the world including El Prado (with its priceless collections of Velásquez and Goya), Thyssen (historic masterpieces by Italian, Dutch, German and Russian artists) and Reina Sofia (home of Guernica, arguably Picasso’s most famous painting). Madrid’s ‘Big Three’ are conveniently located within a stone’s throw of each other in an area called the Golden Triangle. If these three haven’t satisfied your arty appetite, head out to some of Madrid’s lesser-known museums like the Caixa Forum and La Casa Encendida.

Prado Museum

3. EAT & drink like a Madrileño – Most visitors will quickly become acquainted with the city’s tapas tradition because you simply can’t miss the plethora of tapas bars serving all sorts of hams, cheeses, tortillas and seafood. Special mentions go to Mercado de San Miguel (see point 7 below) and the Museo del Jamón (which features a staggering variety of hams).

Seafood tapas at Mercado de San Miguel

Aside from tapas, try the cochinillo (suckling pig), cocido (a rich stew), lamb (cordero) and steaks at historic restaurants such as El Sobrino de Botín (a 300-year-old restaurant that’s listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest in the world), La Bola Taberna or Casa Paco. For something sweet and savoury, head for Chocolateria San Gines for hot chocolate and churros (deep fried dough sticks) and porras (similar to churros but thicker).

Churros and porras with hot chocolate at Chocolateria San Ginés

For the wine lovers, you have to visit Lavinia in the Salamanca district (literally a department store of wines!) if only to feast your eyes on the epic collection of wines. Oh, and you have to try a shot of vermouth (vermut de grifo – vermouth from the tap) in one of Madrid’s historic taverns along Cava Baja street in the La Latina district such as Bodega Ricla or La Perejila.

4. Sign up for a Tapas tour in La Latina – If you’re only going to do one tour in Madrid, sign up for this tapas tour in Old Madrid! You can choose between evening tours on (most) weekdays or the Sunday afternoon tour. Andrés is a very knowledgeable guide who’ll not only show you many of Madrid’s hidden historic and architectural gems as he leads you through the cobbled streets of La Latina, but more importantly, he’ll take you to some of Madrid’s best-loved tapas joints only locals know about and combine each tapas dish with the perfect wine pairing (from his own wine collection). He’ll introduce you to vermouth on tap, the fluffiest tortilla patatas and a variety of local cheeses and hams. I had a big smile on my face all evening!

Jamón Iberico, manchego (sheep cheese) and old sherry on the tapas tour

5. Go square-hopping – Madrid teems with squares, from the grandeur of Plaza Mayor and the hustle and bustle of Puerta del Sol (a focal point for street entertainment) to cosy neighbourhood squares. Grab a chair at any of the thousands of alfresco cafés, order a cerveza or vino and watch the world go by! Drinks are a tad more expensive when ordered out on a terrace (as opposed to at the bar) but the people-watching opportunities are more than worth the extra expense!

Square in Madrid

6. Be awed inside Madrid’s palaces and monasteries – If it’s your first time in Madrid, I highly recommend a visit to the splendorous Royal Palace (Palacio Real). Designed in a late-baroque style by Italian architects, the 18th-century Royal Palace, with its impressive halls and ornate Throne Room, is a must-see. Then cross the square to the cavernous La Almudena Cathedral for another jaw-dropping moment. If you’re in Madrid on the first Wednesday of the month, stick around for the changing of the Royal Guard at noon (featuring hundreds of guards and more than a hundred horses).

Palacio Real

La Almudena Cathedral (left)

In the vicinity of the Royal Palace, you’ll find the Monasterio de La Encarnación, most famous for its religious relics and a strange phenomenon which occurs every July 27th. A short walk away, another grand monastery awaits: the Monasterio Descalzas Reales. In its heyday, the monastery was one of Europe’s wealthiest. It literally means the ‘Monastery of Barefoot Royals’ and houses a stunning collection of tapestries and bejeweled religious ornaments.

7. Indulge yourself in Madrid’s markets – Madrid’s markets offer something for everyone, from the El Rastro flea market to the posh Mercado de la Paz (in the fashionable Salamanca district – top-notch charcuterie and wines). My favourite is the Mercado de San Miguel. Not really a market in the strict sense of the word, it’s more like one big deli and tapas fantasy! The vibe here is infectious and both locals and visitors are drawn by the delicious tapas and ditto wines. You could easily spend hours in Mercado de San Miguel hopping from one tapas counter to the next, glass of vino in hand.

Mercado de San Miguel

Another market worth a visit is Mercado de San Antón in the Chueca district. Located in a modern, rather unassuming building, the Mercado de San Antón also has a great variety of tapas. After you’ve had your tapas fix, grab a cocktail (or two) and mingle with the locals at the rooftop bar.

8. Go wild with the locals! – There are hundreds, if not thousands of local bars and cafés scattered throughout Madrid and most of them have large television screens that show the news or sports programmes. Seek out an old tavern, bodega or cerveceria on a match day (football – or soccer – that is) especially when the local teams (Real Madrid and Atlético de Madrid) play. If you’re looking to completely immerse yourself in Spain’s passion for food, drink and football, you can’t miss this experience. Two places Andrés (see point 4 above) recommends for an authentic atmosphere are Fatigas del Querer and El Ñeru.

A traditional tavern in Madrid

You can also choose to go to one of the football matches (Real Madrid’s massive El Bernabéu stadium is an attraction in itself) and feel the ground tremble beneath you but if you’re not too interested in the sport, dropping by for a drink on match day is the next best thing.

9. Take a breather in Retiro Park & Botanical Gardens – If you’re looking for a respite from the busy streets, head for the Jardín de Botánico and the adjacent Retiro Park. Hectares upon hectares of lush greenery in tranquil settings await you. Retiro Park used to belong to the Spanish royal family before it became a public park in the late-19th century. With its monumental buildings and palaces (including the gorgeous Crystal Palace), serene lakes, impressive galleries and statues, Retiro is a favourite spot for both locals and visitors. Don’t miss seeing the Statue of the Fallen Angel (Estatua del Angel Caído), reputedly the only public statue representing the Devil anywhere in the world.

10. Stay local – To be honest, I’m a hotel person; i.e. when I’m in a foreign city, I prefer the comforts, services and facilities of a hotel. Lately, I’ve had to revise my preference after discovering the joys of vacation rentals. Somehow, staying in a local’s apartment makes me feel much more at home in a strange city. Most often, these apartments come equipped with a kitchen, allowing me to browse around the markets for fresh produce and cooking it in my own kitchen. Having a vacation rental also facilitates easy contact with locals; you start by meeting the landlord! Quite a few of the points listed above were recommendations to me by the apartment owner in Madrid – and after experiencing them, I’ve now passed them on to you! Furthermore, if you’re travelling in a group, it makes more sense (and it’s cheaper per head) to consider an apartment.

HouseTrip has a fabulous collection of vacation rentals in Madrid, ranging from small studios to large palatial apartments, in some of the city’s best locations. I stayed in a lovely, clean studio near the Opera/Royal Palace (a fantastic location) and visited two other HouseTrip apartments. Click on the images below for booking details.

My studio apartment in Madrid; cosy, equipped with a kitchen and laundry and situated within walking distance of the city’s main attractions.

Loved this apartment near the Plaza Mayor. Clean, colourful and sleeps up to 4 people. Its location, near the Plaza Mayor is excellent. The owner, Luz, is a fabulous host who keeps her guests feeling at home with food, fresh flowers and other thoughtful details.

They were all pretty amazing, especially the huge apartment in a historic palace a stone’s throw from the Opera. The owners told me about the many Opera singers and musicians who had stayed in the apartment and we had a good laugh about some of the quirkier moments.

The gorgeous apartment in a historic Madrid palace. The owner Manuel and his partner love to talk about some of the famous artists who’ve stayed here before. This apartment sleeps up to 9 people!

If you’re visiting Madrid, I highly recommend opting for a vacation rental. It sure is a great way to kick-start your immersion in the local scene!

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with HouseTrip. As always, all opinions expressed above are mine, and mine only.

Ten things to do in Madrid is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Divine pisco sours!

It had been a long day. First a flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas, then a three-hour wait for the bus to Puerto Natales, the gateway to the Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia. It must’ve taken me close to twelve hours to get to Puerto Natales. I arrived at the hotel, totally exhausted. Good thing it wasn’t any ol’ hotel – I’d booked myself into the terrific Hotel Indigo.

I dropped my bags in the gorgeous room (which had amazing views of the the Seno Ultima Esperanza – the Last Hope Sound) and headed for the cosy lounge downstairs. I was about to order a glass of wine when I saw a lady order a pisco sour – a cocktail consisting of Pisco liquor, lemon juice, egg white and sugar. We struck up a conversation and she said that the bartender makes a fabulous pisco sour. I followed her advice and she was right! It was liquid heaven in a champagne glass – the perfect end to an arduous day of travel!

Read more about Chile on Velvet Escape.

Velvet Moments: travel photo – Pisco Sour is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Where a million paths cross

Grand Central Terminus (image courtesy of Alex Proimos)

Stand for the first time in the main concourse of Grand Central Terminal on Manhattan’s 42nd Street and you’ll be forgiven for feeling overwhelmed by the scale of the space around you. Tall enough to house a 12 storey apartment block and with a similar area to a full-size American football pitch, Grand Central Terminus is used by over half a million commuters each day as they pass through its vast complex of grand halls and marble corridors. Yet this iconic Belle Epoque building may quite easily not have been standing today, if its post-war owners had had their way.

The history of Grand Central Terminal

The story of Grand Central Terminal reflects in many ways the story of New York itself. While the railroads of the 1800s brought mass transportation to Manhattan, they also brought noise, smoke and frequent accidents. As immigrants poured in and the city expanded northwards from Lower Manhattan, the wealthy moved uptown to escape the overcrowding and chaos in the poorer districts to the south of the city.

Shoe-shining in Grand Central

Grand Central Terminus was built by the tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt on the back of the advent of electricity, and promised a cleaner transport hub in a part of the city that was at the time far from the glamorous area it is today. The grand sweeping staircases are made of finest Italian marble while celebrated French artist Paul Helleu was commissioned to create the Sky Ceiling, one of the largest murals in the world. Everything about the building was designed to communicate the Vanderbilt’s status among New York’s money men. As with so many of New York’s finest buildings, it was ego that provided the ultimate motive to create such a work of art.

There is little doubt that Grand Central Terminal was the making of the east side of midtown Manhattan. With the advent of the railroad and the masses that now came to this part of town, the area boomed and hotels, offices and prestigious apartment buildings sprung up in the surrounding blocks. No fewer than 21 buildings are linked to Grand Central by inter-connecting walkways. Even the Waldorf Astoria, perhaps New York’s most famous hotel, would probably not have moved uptown from its original site on 34th Street (it made way for the Empire State Building) to its present location a few blocks north of the station had it not been for Grand Central.

Main concourse – Grand Central

But while the station may have made the East Side what it is today, its success also nearly led to its destruction. As air travel took off in the post-war years the railways declined and the building became used for trade fairs and office space, with many of its Belle Epoque features falling into ruin. Such a prime piece of real estate was attractive to developers who wanted to pull down the station and replace it with a 60 storey office building.

Thankfully the building was saved, even though it took the judgement of the US Supreme Court to deny the developers their destructive dream. A massive restoration project returned the station to its original state, allowing millions to once again admire the magnificent interior as they made their way to the platforms.

MAS (Municipal Arts Society) run tours of the station that explain how and why the terminus was created and the restoration work that was required to save this remarkable building. Our guide Joey led us through the building to the Whispering Gallery, the Kissing Gallery and even showed us the private apartments once owned by New York’s pre-war elite. The 90 minute tours run every Wednesday at 12:30 and are free (a $10 donation to MAS is suggested).

Grand Central Terminal is much more than merely a place to catch a train – with its own dedicated NYPD precinct it really can claim to be its own city within a city.

About the guest writer
Written by Andy Jarosz for Travel Insurance Cover, who provide travel insurance for Australians (including annual multi trip policies for regular travellers). Information on policies available can be found on the Travel Insurance Cover website. Andy writes on his travel blog 501 Places, and is also on Google+.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Travel Insurance Cover.

Where a million paths cross is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Colourful Bo Kaap

The Bo Kaap neighbourhood in Cape Town is a historic enclave that graces the slopes of Signal Hill. The first thing anyone will notice about this neighbourhood are the gorgeous, brightly-coloured houses lining steep cobbled streets. The second thing: the faint scent of spices such as cardamom and cloves in the air.

Bo Kaap is the home of the Cape Malays, a predominantly Muslim community, who were brought to the Cape in the 16th and 17th centuries by the Dutch from parts of Eastern Africa and as far as present-day Malaysia and Indonesia. They brought with them their religion, culture and cuisine. These days, there are still traces of the Malay language in the local dialect, like “trim-makasi”. Meaning ‘thank you’, Malaysians and Indonesians pronounce it as “terima kasih”.

A tour of Bo Kaap

A great way to experience the Bo Kaap neighbourhood is to join a walking and cooking tour by Andulela, a local tour operator that specialises in authentic South African experiences. We met our guide at the footsteps of the Bo Kaap Museum. This small museum provides a wonderful overview of Bo Kaap’s colourful history.

Waal Str. in the heart of Bo Kaap

Colourful Bo Kaap, with Table Mountain in the background

From there, we criss-crossed the neighbourhood, passing several mosques including the Auwal Mosque – built in the 18th century, it is South Africa’s oldest mosque – and Shafee Mosque. We stopped by beautiful murals depicting Cape Malay life and customs in the 19th century, little vegetable gardens and cafés serving typical Cape Malay dishes. It was a gorgeous sunny day and the vivid colours of the neighbourhood looked incredibly cheery!

A Cape Malay gentleman on his terrace

The Shafee mosque in Bo Kaap

Murals depicting Cape Malay life

The cloud & the legend of Van Hunk

As we made our way around the neighbourhood, we were treated to beautiful views of Table Mountain and the adjacent Devil’s Peak. I stopped to look at a strange cloud formation above Devil’s Peak. Our guide noticed my gaze and almost whispered, “They’re smoking.”

The Devil’s Peak topped by a lone cloud

I asked him about it and he told us about the legend of Van Hunk, a Dutch pirate who used to live at the foot of the mountain. Van Hunk would seek the same spot on the mountain every day to smoke his pipe. Legend has it that a stranger approached him one day and they soon discovered that they both loved to smoke. Van Hunk challenged his friend to see who could smoke the longest. Van Hunk won the contest and his new friend was livid. In his state of anger, he removed his disguise – he turned out to be the Devil himself – and sent a bolt of thunder crashing onto the mountain. Both men disappeared. These days, when the cloud appears above Devil’s Peak, locals say that the Devil and Van Hunk are at it again!

A Cape Malay cooking course with Faldila

The walking tour ended at the Atlas Trading Company, a specialty shop that sells all sorts of spices and herbs. It reminded me of the shops in my neighbourhood in Kuala Lumpur when I was a kid. The spicy scents triggered a slew of wonderful childhood memories! Our guide explained in which dishes the various spices were typically used – everything smelled so amazing – and made us memorise the Cape Malay names of the spices!

Spices at Atlas Trading

From there, we walked up the hill to a small house where we were met by the lovely Faldila. Faldila took us by the hand and led us into her home. After a refreshing drink, we were given instructions and before we knew it, we were in the midst of a delightful Cape Malay cooking course! We kneaded and smacked the dough for the roti (pancake-like bread), mixed spices for the curries, and folded samosas and stuffed them with a spicy filling. Faldila kept us on our toes, quizzing us on our knowledge of the spices and their Cape Malays names.

We were introduced to some of the spices often used in Cape Malay cuisine

The lovely Faldila in action

Then it was my turn!

We learned how to neatly fold samosas!

The finished product was simply delicious!

And my roti didn’t turn out too bad!

It was a fantastic experience. I had a bit of a chuckle when it dawned on me that I’d eaten rotis and samosas all my life (they’re just as commonplace in Malaysia) but here I was, in a little kitchen in Cape Town learning how to make them for the very first time!

Steeped in history and home to a unique heritage, Bo Kaap is one corner of Cape Town that shouldn’t be missed. I highly recommend joining this walking tour and cooking class for great insights into the Cape Malay community, and simply because it’s great fun!

Search for hotels in Cape Town. Read more about Cape Town on Velvet Escape.

Note: a big thank you goes to Cape Town Tourism for your fabulous hospitality. As always, all views expressed above are mine.

Exploring Bo Kaap in Cape Town is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A cycling holiday in Cyprus

Every year, millions of people pack their suitcases and head off to the nearest airport for their annual holiday. We all have our own specific reasons for wanting to get away from it all, but for most of us it’s simply because we want an opportunity to rest and relax under a warm sun and not have to worry about the pressures of work and family commitments for a while. To cater to more active visitors, many destinations are keen to offer opportunities for wind-surfing, abseiling, tennis, golf and dozens of other experiences.

One of the most popular activities of all is cycling, and some European resorts welcome thousands of keen cyclists on an annual basis. In many ways, it represents the perfect vacation activity, because each participant can do as little or as much as they want; in most places, there is no specific finishing point to worry about. For family groups, cycling can provide a welcome distraction from a constant schedule of visiting the beach, and can allow the younger members of the party to let off a little steam. Needless to say, there are also organised groups of dedicated cyclists who will sign up to a more intense programme of long and arduous daily rides.

A cycling holiday in Cyprus

In recent years, the eastern Mediterranean island nation of Cyprus has developed a wide range of activities including cycling holidays. Check out Mountain Bike Cyprus who offers great cycle holiday packages. There are few destinations for cyclists which can match the beautiful island of Cyprus. The undulating terrain throughout the coastal regions – the region around Paphos is especially popular – is perfect for all riders, from the occasional participant who simply wants to get away from the crowd to the serious individual who’s looking for something a little more punishing.

Cyprus’ beautiful coastline

Quaint villages dot the Cyprus hinterland

One of the reasons so many cyclists choose Cyprus is the wonderful climate. In the summer, the days are invariably warm and sunny, but even on the hottest afternoon there is often a cooling breeze coming in from the Mediterranean. And in winter there’s still a pleasantly temperate feel in the air.

Getting to this wonderful island is easy from the UK and it doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg, either. There are affordable holidays to Cyprus to be found on the web, thanks to Jet2holidays, so if you’ve ever dreamt of taking to two wheels in one of Europe’s most picturesque destinations now is the time to do it.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Jet2Holidays.

Discovering Cyprus on two wheels is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The cold front has since moved on (YAY!) but I thought I’d share some photos with you of a memorable week in a Dutch winter wonderland!

It all started with a blizzard!

I went for a walk in the snow every chance I could. After that blizzard, the weather cleared up dramatically and we were treated to bright blue skies and dollops of sunshine. The virgin white carpet of snow and the crunching sound it makes under my shoes, the blinding winter light and air so cold it stings – I began to remember why I love and loathe winters!

When the blizzard subsided, we were treated to gorgeous winter scenes like this snowy path along the Amstel River.

It’s quite a different winter compared to last year when it froze for a prolonged period of time and there was little snow. For several days, the canals of Amsterdam were one big ice-skating rink! This time around, the canals remained relatively ice-free and there was lots of snow.

A snowy Amsterdam

Walls of ice in Marken

One afternoon, my partner and I went for a drive to Marken, a historic town north of Amsterdam. Marken is situated on a small island in the Markermeer (a huge lake in the centre of the country). We’d read in the news that the lake was frozen and that the wind was pushing the sheets of ice onto the dikes, creating walls of ice several meters high. We knew we had to see this! When we arrived on the island, we headed straight for the dikes that circle the island. The frozen scenery that greeted us from atop the dike was simply mind-blowing!

The frozen Markermeer

The lakeshore was covered with all sorts of ice formations.

We walked along the dike to the lighthouse to see the huge mounds of ice.

A close-up look at the mounds of ice at the Marken lighthouse.

I spotted these two ducks and a chair along the icy shore. Too cute!

And a few geese!

As we made our way back, the sky and the frozen lake looked simply spectacular!

I captured this shot of people strolling along the dike against the background of the setting sun.

It was an amazing winter – it’s not over yet I know but I’m glad we’re out of the deep freeze, at least for now.

Read more about Amsterdam on Velvet Escape.

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A Dutch winter wonderland is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The Onyar River winds its way through Girona

Girona is a small medieval city about a 1.5-hour drive north of Barcelona. Located halfway between the majestic peaks of the Pyrenees and the rugged Costa Brava coast, the town sits on the confluence of four rivers and has a rich history that goes back to the Roman ages. Girona is quite often overlooked by tourists who pass the town on their way from Barcelona to Figueres, the home of the world-famous Dalí Theatre Museum. That’s a pity because the city’s varied attractions warrant a stay of at least a few days. In addition to being a gorgeous town for a leisurely stroll – along cobble-stoned streets and colourful buildings – Girona boasts many museums, shops, cafés and lovely hotels. Moreover, El Celler de Can Roca, one of the world’s best restaurants is located here!

Passeig de la Muralla

I love exploring the maze of old streets in the city, especially around the Jewish Quarter, one of Europe’s best preserved. On my recent trip to Girona, I decided to spend a morning walking along the city’s medieval walls, the Passeig de la Muralla. Parts of the 14th century walls and towers were destroyed during the late-19th century to allow the city to expand. The missing parts have since been reconstructed and these days, it’s possible to walk along the walls and enjoy the views of the city and the surrounding countryside. Armed with my iPhone (used to capture the images in this post), I started my walk at the Plaça Catalunya, on the banks of the River Onyar.

Reflections in the Onyar River near Plaça Catalunya.

From the river, signs led me up a series of staircases to the wall. It’s a bit of a climb in certain places but the views from the wall and the towers certainly made the effort more than worthwhile. I could see almost the entire city, including the city’s iconic Cathedral, whilst the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees were clearly visible in the far distance.

Views of Girona from the walls

Girona spread out below me

The view from the 14th century Sant Doménec Tower

The Cathedral of Girona

The path ends behind Girona’s imposing Cathedral. Construction of the Cathedral started in the 11th century on the foundations of an ancient Roman temple and continued for many centuries.

The wall walk ends behind the Cathedral

The Cathedral’s original design was Romanesque but in the 13th century, the city’s architects implemented a Gothic design. These days, the Cathedral has the second widest Gothic nave in the world (behind St. Peter’s Basilica) and is home to a stunning collection of religious artifacts.

The Cathedral’s impressive interior

The huge nave

The cloister

This beautiful walk is a great way to get acquainted with Girona before you explore the rest of the city. One thing’s for sure, a visit to Girona would not be complete without a stroll around the walls and a visit to the Cathedral!

Search for hotels in Girona. Read other Velvet Escape posts on Costa Brava.

Walking the city walls of Girona is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The Victoria Falls park entrance

Locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya – the ‘smoke that thunders’. No other name describes the Victoria Falls better. Straddling the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls are one of the most impressive falls in the world, spanning more than a mile. I saw a photo of the falls in a geographic encyclopedia as a child and I knew then, that’s where I’ll go… one day! Thirty-odd years later, that dream came true.

We flew into Livingstone in Zambia from Johannesburg and as the plane approached the airport, the falls came into view. The aerial views of the Victoria Falls were simply breathtaking! Several days later, I found myself standing at the entrance of the Victoria Falls park on the Zimbabwean side of the falls. I could barely contain my excitement. From the entrance, I followed the path that leads visitors through the forest to the falls. As I approached the falls, I noticed the thicker vegetation. Whilst the flora at the entrance was shrubbier, closer to the falls, the scrawny bushes made way for trees whose thick branches were covered with all sorts of epiphytes such as lianas. Sustained by the incessant spray from the falls, the rainforest formed an extraordinary contrast to the woodland savannah in the surrounding region. The thunderous roar of the falls was clearly audible and I quickened my pace. I made my way to a clearing and there they were: the Victoria Falls!

My first glimpse of the falls

I stopped for several minutes to take in the splendid view, then continued along the path through the forest. The path branched off to various lookouts, each of which offered amazing views of the falls on the other side of the gorge. It was a hot day and I was only too happy to linger at the lookouts, getting absolutely drenched by the enormous clouds of spray!

A view of the falls from one of the lookouts

Another fabulous view of the falls

The path stopped abruptly at the end of the gorge. Signs warned visitors not to get too close to the edge – there were no fences, at least not that I can recall. The view of the falls, the gorge and the rainbows below were absolutely stunning!

Panorama of the falls

At the edge of the gorge – Victoria Falls

Rainbows at the Victoria Falls

See my short video of the falls:

Fun for thrill-seekers

Aside from walks through the forest to view the falls, the park also has several activities for those seeking an adrenaline-charged experience. The activities ranged from fox-flying (zip-lining in a horizontal position) across the gorge (least scary) to gorge swinging (simply terrifying!). I chose to stay put and enjoy the view! Haha!

Views of the Second (left) and Third (right) Gorge, with the Victoria Falls bridge in the background (left).

I stood in the shade and watched these thrill-seekers – i.e. crazy people – zip-line across the gorge, and bungee-jump or swing into the gorge. Their screams echoed across the gorge, assuring me that I’d made the right decision!

Zip-lining at the Victoria Falls

My friends Nellie and Alberto from Wild Junket filmed the gorge-swing experience:

Seeing the Victoria Falls truly was a dream come true and I’m glad I got to see it. It’s a pity that I didn’t get to experience the falls from the Zambian side – one of the biggest attractions there is the Devil’s Pool, where visitors can sit in a natural pool at the very edge of the falls.

The Devil’s Pool (image courtesy of Charles Haynes)

That only means I’ll have to return… one day!

Note: My trip to Zimbabwe was made possible by Rani Resorts and Nicky Arthur PR, Views expressed above are, as always, mine.

The smoke that thunders is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Read the accompanying post: “Being Salvador Dalí“.

See more Velvet Moments.

Velvet Moments: travel photo – the tree is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog