I amsterdam City Card 

The I amsterdam City Card offers free access to more than 80 museums and attractions, and discounts on many activities. The City Card, available for 1-5 days, also includes free and unlimited public transportation (bus, tram and metro), a canal cruise and 24-hour bicycle rental. I received a 72-hour City Card worth EUR 110. In my opinion, it makes a lot of sense to purchase the City Card if you’re planning to visit numerous museums and attractions – the more places you visit, the more value you get out of the card. By using the I amsterdam City Card to follow my 3-day Amsterdam itinerary below, you’ll save more than EUR 100! 

How to spend 3 days in Amsterdam with the City Card

There are countless things to do in Amsterdam so it was a challenge to create a 3-day programme. To truly appreciate the city, I suggest spending a week (at least). However, if you only have a few days, then this itinerary is perfect for you!

I’ve crafted this 3-day itinerary to include a mix of world-famous attractions as well as lesser-known gems in Amsterdam. It also includes a scenic bicycle ride into the surrounding countryside.

This 3-day Amsterdam itinerary is perfect for visitors who are especially interested in history, art, architecture and nature, but also for those who simply want to get to know the city beyond the highlights. Even if it’s not your first time in Amsterdam, I’m pretty sure that there are things in this itinerary that will appeal to you. 

Day 1

Morning – city centre

Head to the I amsterdam store at the Central Station (Amsterdam Centraal) to purchase your 72-hour City Card. One thing I love about the store is that they sell all sorts of merchandise by local designers. I was thrilled to discover t-shirts, magnets and cards created by my friends at Orange Panda! So this is a great place to get a few unique souvenirs, as well as a water bottle, which you can refill at water fountains across the city.

From the Central Station, walk down the Damrak boulevard to the Dam Square, site of the iconic Palace on the Dam. This 17th century palace, originally built as the City Hall, became the residence of King Louis Bonaparte in the 19th century. Across from the Palace is the 15th century Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), which you can visit for free with the City Card.

Continue to Spui square, where you can visit Begijnhof (a gorgeous medieval beguinage). There’s also a lovely book market on the square every Friday.

From Spui, cross the Singel and Herengracht canals to the Nine Streets neighbourhood. This is a vibrant neighbourhood packed with designer fashion, art and vintage stores, cafés and restaurants, making it a great place for some shopping and a bite to eat.

Also in this neighbourhood is the Grachtenmuseum (Museum of the Canals), which is a must-visit if you’d like to learn about the history and construction of Amsterdam’s canals. Entrance is free with the City Card.

Afternoon – Museum Quarter and canal cruise

After exploring the Nine Streets neighbourhood, continue with a visit to the Rijksmuseum in the Museum Quarter. You can walk along the canals to get there (15-20 minute walk) or take tram 12 from Leidsestraat to the Museum Quarter.

Arguably the most famous museum in Amsterdam, the Rijksmuseum has an impressive collection of art from the likes of Rembrandt and Vermeer.

In the Museum Quarter, you’ll also find other world-renowned museums such as the Van Gogh Museum (not included in the City Card), Stedelijk Museum (contemporary art and design museum that’s included with the City Card) and smaller museums such as Moco (contemporary art with works by Dali and Banksy; included in the City Card).

End the afternoon with a lovely canal cruise – the best way to experience the canals whilst giving your legs a bit of a rest. Cruise companies that offer City Card holders a free cruise from the vicinity of the Rijksmuseum include:

• Blue Boat Company (opposite Hard Rock Cafe)
• LOVERS Canal Cruises (next to Hotel American)
• Stromma (opposite Rijksmuseum)

Evening – walk around the canals

If you’re in love with Amsterdam’s canals by now (like I am), I recommend strolling around the canals in the evening. It truly is an enchanting sight. Here’s an Amsterdam evening walking route I’ve crafted to assist you.

Day 2

Morning – bike ride along the Amstel River

Kick off day 2 with a bike ride into the countryside and to see a windmill or two! Pick up your free 24-hour bike rental at one of the providers: A-Bike, MacBike, Amsterbikes or Yellowbike.

The cycling route starts at the intersection of the Stadhouderskade and the Amstel River (route map). From here, follow the west bank of the river in a southerly direction to the village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. Depending on your pace, and number of stops, the ride takes approximately an hour in each direction. It’s a scenic bike ride that starts in Amsterdam’s southern districts, De Pijp and Rivierenbuurt. 

Keep following the river past houseboats, parks and riverside cafés to the Zorgvlied cemetery, the final resting place of many prominent Dutch figures, especially from the arts and theatre. It’s also a beautiful place for a stroll. From here, continue along the river to the Amstelpark, a large park with many trees, lakes and nature paths.

At the southern end of the park, you’ll find one of two traditional Dutch windmills on this route. Keep following the river and you’ll pass elegant villas and verdant fields with cows and sheep. You can also stop at Rembrandt Hoeve, a cheese and wooden clog factory.

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel is a wonderful place for a lunch break. There are several riverside restaurants and cafés to choose from, including Heisa and Loetje aan de Amstel.

Afternoon – Amsterdam South (Zuid)

Return to Amsterdam and make a left turn when you reach the intersection of the Amstelkanaal and Amstel River. For fans of art and architecture, this is a great area to see and learn about the Amsterdam School of Architecture, a flamboyant architectural style rooted in Expressionism that emerged in the early-1900’s.

Stop at the bridge intersection mentioned above for your first taste of this architectural style! Then continue westwards along the Amstelkanaal. As you explore the Zuid (South) districts, you’ll discover housing blocks and bridges with whimsical façades, intriguing sculptures, beautiful doorways and unique fonts. The Dageraad Museum (free with the City Card) in this district is a great place to learn more about this architectural style. Check out my Amsterdam School of Architecture guide for more info – also includes a walking route in this area.

If you’re not interested in architecture, I recommend going on a self-guided food tour of De Pijp (free with the City Card). This vibrant neighbourhood is packed with great eateries! It’s also the home of Amsterdam’s most famous market: the Albert Cuyp Market.

Evening – Amsterdam North (Noord)

Take the free ferry from behind the Central Station to Buiksloterweg (in Amsterdam North), a 10-minute ride across the harbour. Proceed to the A’DAM Tower, where you’ll find the A’DAM Lookout (free with the City Card). This is a great spot to enjoy a panoramic view of Amsterdam. If you enjoy a thrill, buy a ticket for The Swing! I recommend getting to The Lookout before sunset. In the evenings, the bar at The Lookout transforms into a club with DJ’s, where you can dance the night away, and still enjoy the view!

There are numerous restaurants and cafés in the area so it’s also a wonderful place for dinner. Places I can recommend include Moon (a revolving, fine-dining restaurant in the A’DAM Tower), THT, Polly Goudvisch and Café ONS. 

Day 3

Morning – NDSM

In the morning, take the free ferry from behind the Central Station to NDSM (20-minute ride), the old shipping and warehouse district in Amsterdam North. This vibrant district is one of the most creative in the city. Here, you’ll find huge warehouses and shipyards that have been converted into homes, artist studios, markets (including the Ij Hallen, Europe’s largest flea market) and exhibition centres.

Wander around this colourful, street-art filled district, then visit STRAAT, the cavernous Amsterdam street art museum (free with the City Card).

Afternoon – Nieuwmarkt

Take the ferry back to Central Station. From here, walk along Zeedijk, one of the oldest streets in Amsterdam, to Nieuwmarkt, a bustling square with a castle in the middle. You’ll find centuries-old pubs, medieval houses, and Amsterdam’s Chinatown. This is a great place for lunch as there are countless eateries to choose from, from pancakes and sandwiches to various Asian cuisines. 

This neighbourhood, one of the busiest in Amsterdam due to its infamous Red Light District, is packed with beautiful canals and houses, and charming squares. It’s where you’ll find some of the most photogenic spots in Amsterdam.

If you’d like to taste a local brew, check out De Bekeerde Suster (founded by nuns in the 16th century) or De Prael.

This neighbourhood is also home to numerous museums and historic attractions. A hidden gem that’s absolutely worth a visit is the Our Lord in the Attic Museum (free with the City Card). In a 17th century canal house, you’ll find a beautiful secret church in the attic!

I also recommend a visit to the 13th century Oude Kerk (Old Church), one of the oldest buildings in the city. Entrance is free with the City Card.

Another historic attraction in the vicinity is the Rembrandthuis, the famous painter’s former home and studio. This is where he created many of his most famous pieces. Visit the museum for free with the City Card.

Evening – comedy

End your day with some laughter – visit Boom Chicago, a comedy club that’s a bit of an institution in Amsterdam. Arrive there 30 minutes before the show and flash your City Card for an evening of comedy, improv and song.

Save with the I amsterdam City Card

I’ve listed the prices* of the attractions listed above and added a canal cruise and bike rental. If you follow my 3-day Amsterdam itinerary above and use the City Card, you’ll have all the items below for free – I’ve included the normal price per item. Depending on which you choose, you could save upwards of EUR 100 with a 72-hour City Card (that costs EUR 110).

• Public transport 3-day pass: €21.50
• Nieuwe Kerk: €19.50
• Grachtenmuseum: €17.50
• Rijksmuseum: €25
• Canal cruise: €22.50
• Bike rental: €17.50
• Dageraad Museum: €16.50 or De Pijp food tour: €12.50
• A’DAM Lookout: €18.50
• STRAAT: €19.50
• Our Lord in the Attic Museum: €16.95
• Oude Kerk: €13.50
• Rembrandthuis: €21.50
• Boom Chicago: €23.50

*Prices: summer 2025

Note: my exploration of Amsterdam with the City Card was sponsored by I amsterdam. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.

A maze of streets and alleys, Baščaršija, founded by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is the oldest and most touristy quarter in the city. Against a backdrop of minarets and domes, and rows of alfresco cafés and colourful shops, it’s a bustling area with many tourists, and just as many locals sipping coffee, eating a pastry, and chatting with family and friends. As I enjoyed my drink, the scent of freshly baked bread drifted through the air, mingling with the melodic call to prayer from a nearby mosque and the distant clang of church bells. The atmosphere was magnetic. I knew then this was a trip I’d never forget.

18 things to do in Sarajevo

Sarajevo (map), the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is situated in a valley on the banks of the Miljacka River and is surrounded by the forested mountains of the Dinaric Alps. I didn’t know a lot about Sarajevo before my arrival so I couldn’t wait to explore the city.

After spending a week of soaking up the city’s culture and history, with several day trips from Sarajevo in between, I was convinced that Sarajevo is absolutely worth visiting and that I would one day return. The city is a tantalising mix of Eastern and Western cultures, that stems from its occupation by the Ottomans (from the 15th century) and by the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1878). It’s often called the “Jerusalem of Europe” as there are mosques, synagogues, Catholic and Orthodox churches all located within a small area. In addition, the Bosnian people are warm and welcoming, which made me feel right at home.

There are lots of things to do in Sarajevo so it was a challenge to pick the most interesting bits, but here we go (I’ve also pinned these places on a map below):

1. Explore Baščaršija

Baščaršija is the Ottoman-era Old Town. Its atmospheric streets and alleys, filled to the brim with historic monuments, shops, eateries and cafés, is a joy to explore! For an insightful introduction, I recommend joining the free walking tour, offered twice a day by Meet Bosnia, or a paid guided tour that covers more ground.

If you’d like to wander around on your own, make sure to look out for:

Sebilj fountain and ‘Pigeon Square’

An Ottoman-era wooden fountain on a square nicknamed ‘Pigeon Square’ by locals. A local legend says that if you drink from the fountain, you’ll return to Sarajevo one day! It’s no surprise that most visitors consider it one of the top things to do in Sarajevo!

Kazandžiluk

The oldest street in Sarajevo, renowned for its copperware, is filled with family-owned businesses, with craftsmanship passed down through generations.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

As you wander through Sarajevo’s Old Town, the name Gazi Husrev-beg appears often, and for good reason. A prominent Ottoman governor in the 16th century, he was known not only for his military campaigns in Croatia and Hungary but also for the urban development of Sarajevo. Before his death, he established a charitable endowment that funded the construction of many significant buildings throughout the city. One of the most remarkable is the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the largest Ottoman-era mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its elegant fountain, a serene centrepiece of the courtyard, is especially beautiful.

Across the road, you’ll find a museum, housed in the old madrasa (Islamic school) and the Library.

Lunar clock

Known as the only lunar clock in the world, this unique 16th century clock tower was also one of the structures built with Gazi Husrev-beg’s endowment. The clock uses Arabic numerals. ’12 o’clock’ indicates the moment of sunset, the Maghrib prayer time and end of the fasting time during the Ramadan (fasting month).

In 1874, the clock was replaced by a mechanism made by Gillett & Bland of London, the same company that built bell-and clock towers around the world such as the Manchester City Hall, St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, Sydney (Australia) Town Hall and even the Sultan Abdul Samad clock tower in Kuala Lumpur!

Morića Han

This is the oldest, still surviving, caravanserai (a medieval inn for merchants) in Sarajevo. Though it no longer houses merchants and their horses, it bursts with atmosphere, and is a great place to enjoy a cup of strong Bosnian coffee.

Bezistan

Another structure funded by the endowment of Gazi Husrev-beg, Bezistan is a 16th century vaulted bazaar.

Tašlihan

Just outside Bezistan, you’ll find the ruins of an old caravanserai.

2. Cross the Meeting of Cultures point

Sarajevo truly is where East Meets West, and there’s even a line that marks the border between the Ottoman-era Baščaršija and the more modern Austro-Hungarian quarter. As you cross the line, notice the difference in the colour of the stone pavement: white on the Ottoman side and dark-grey on the Austro-Hungarian side. My guide swore that there’s actually a temperature difference in the summer as the dark-grey stone absorbs more heat.

3. Explore the Austro-Hungarian quarter

A sharp contrast to Baščaršija, the Austro-Hungarian quarter boasts neat blocks of grand, neo-Renaissance mansions and Art Nouveau buildings.

Within this quarter, you’ll find a plethora of shops, cafés, restaurants. Points of interest to look out for include:

Sacred Heart Cathedral (Roman Catholic)

The largest cathedral in Bosnia and Herzegovina was completed in 1887. Outside, you’ll find the statue of Pope John Paul II, who visited Sarajevo in 1997.

Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos (Serbian Orthodox)

Completed in 1868, the church was built as a request from the city’s Serbian community, with funds raised by local Serbian merchants, and contributions from the Ottoman ruler as well as the Russian tsar.

Eternal flame

A poignant memorial commemorating the victims of WWII.

4. Experience the “Jerusalem of Europe”

With its congregation of places of worship representing multiple religions, Sarajevo certainly lives up to its name of being the “Jerusalem of Europe”. It really is possible to visit a synagogue, Catholic and Orthodox churches and a mosque within an hour. If this interests you, start at either the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque or Ferhadija Mosque, then continue to the Sacred Heart Cathedral, followed by the Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos, before ending at the Moorish-style Ashkenazi Synagogue across the river.

5. Visit the spot where Archduke Franz-Ferdinand was assassinated

The exact spot where Archduke Franz-Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, an event which unleashed WWI, is not hard to find. Located across the road from the city’s iconic Latin Bridge, you’ll find a plaque and a car (a replica of the car the Archduke and his wife rode in) commemorating the spot. During a walking tour, the guide will tell you the pretty remarkable story of how the assassination took place.

6. Cross the Latin Bridge

This 15th century Ottoman-era bridge, the city’s oldest, is somewhat of an icon of Sarajevo.

7. Visit the Emperor’s Mosque

Dedicated to the Ottoman Sultan, Mehmet The Conqueror, the Emperor’s Mosque was built in 1457, the first mosque to be built in Sarajevo after the Ottoman Conquest.

8. Visit the City Hall

Completed in 1896, the City Hall, built in the Moorish Revival style, is one of the most striking buildings in Sarajevo. Serbian military forces burnt it to the ground, along with its two million books (!), during the Siege of Sarajevo in the 1990’s. It was lovingly rebuilt and reopened in 2014. For a small entrance fee, you get to see the stunning interior, with its elegant Moorish arches and embellishments.

9. Enjoy the panoramic view from the Yellow Fortress

One of the top things to do in Sarajevo involves a climb to the Yellow Fortress. It’s a pretty steep hike but you’ll be rewarded with amazing views across the city. Locals love coming here to see the sunset.

10. Browse the shops in Kazandžiluk

Kazandžiluk, the oldest street in Sarajevo, can be found in the Baščaršija quarter. This photogenic street, also called ‘Copperware Alley’, is packed with colourful shops selling coffee pots and sets, trays and all sorts of utensils. Drop by at Adnan’s copperware souvenir shop (map) to see him at work. The friendly and humorous smiths will gladly demonstrate their craft, and create a customised souvenir.

11. Indulge in Bosnian cuisine

Bosnian cuisine was not known to me before my visit but I soon discovered some favourite dishes, like cevapi! These minced meat fingers, served with bread and a cheese spread, is absolutely delicious. My go-to place for cevapi was Nune, a cosy, family-owned place.

For a good introduction to Bosnian cuisine, check out ASDŽ Aščinica, that serves a wide variety of traditional Bosnian dishes. I was a regular visitor during my week-long stay in Sarajevo!

Another Bosnian specialty is burek; flaky pastries stuffed with meat, cheese, spinach or potatoes. A great place to try these ‘Bosnian pies’ is Buregdžinica Sač.

If you have a sweet tooth, you’re in the right place as Bosnians love their sweets and desserts! Unfortunately, or perhaps, fortunately, I don’t, but I absolutely loved the baklava at Baklava Ducan, a serving of which was sufficient to cover my weekly sugar intake!

One of the best things to do in Sarajevo for foodies is to join a food tour. It’s a great introduction to the country’s cuisine and you’ll leave with a full tummy and several doggy bags!

12. Learn more about the Siege of Sarajevo

During the Bosnian War in the early 1990s, Sarajevo endured a brutal 1,425-day siege by Serbian military forces, the longest of any city in modern history. The scars of this horrific chapter remain visible today, from war memorials, museums, and cemeteries to buildings still marked by bullet holes.

During my various tours in Sarajevo and Bosnia, the tour guides never shied away from talking about the war and what they and their families endured. To gain a better understanding, I joined the Siege of Sarajevo and Fall of Yugoslavia tour. It’s a tour I highly recommend. Despite the heaviness, there was a quiet sense of resilience in every stop, a reminder of how deeply Sarajevo had suffered and how bravely it had survived.

13. Visit the Tunnel of Hope

During the Siege of Sarajevo, the city was almost completely surrounded by Serbian military forces. Near the airport, Bosnian forces secretly dug an 800-metre tunnel that extended under the runway to an area controlled by Bosnian forces and the United Nations. This tunnel was used to smuggle people, food and weapons during the Siege. A museum now marks the site and there’s a short stretch of the tunnel that can be visited.

14. Take the cable-car to the top of Mt. Trebević

A fun and scenic thing to do in Sarajevo is to take the cable-car to the top of Mt. Trebević. Panoramic views of Sarajevo await at the top, and a short walk away, you’ll find the old bobsleigh track used during the 1984 Winter Olympics.

15. Mingle with the locals

During my week in Sarajevo, I discovered a warm and friendly people who are only too eager to strike up a conversation. Many of them speak English so it was easy to chat. I visited numerous cafés and bars where I quickly found myself in a conversation with locals and other tourists.

Some of my favourite places include Caffe Divan (Morića Han) and Caffe Selfie in Baščaršija, and La Cava Pub, Central Caffe, Behut Coffeeshop, City Pub and Tesla Pub (I’ve pinned these places in the map below). These are easy-going places to have a coffee, a beer or a cocktail, watch the world go by and mingle with the locals.

16. Visit the historic markets

If you love visiting markets, like I do, then don’t miss Pijaca Markale and Gradska Tržnica, Sarajevo’s historic markets.

During the Siege of Sarajevo, the Pijaca Markale was shelled multiple times, attacks which killed dozens of civilians. These days, it’s a colourful market with friendly vendors selling a variety of vegetables and fruits.

A short walk away, stands the grand Gradska Tržnica indoor market hall. During my first day in Sarajevo, I actually mistook it for a concert hall! Built in 1895 during the Austro-Hungarian period, the Gradska Tržnica was a marvel of its time, featuring Sarajevo’s first steel-girder roof. Over a century later, it still functions as a bustling local market, with neatly arranged stalls offering everything from fresh fruits to meats, cheeses and artisanal treats.

17. Spot the Sarajevo Roses

During my walks around the city, I noticed numerous, curious-looking splatters of paint on the pavements. I later learned that these are the Sarajevo Roses. During the Siege of Sarajevo, the city was bombarded with hundreds of mortar shells every day. The explosion marks or craters were later filled with red resin as a memorial of those who perished on the spot. These little memorials became known as the Sarajevo Roses.

18. Have a hammam experience

Finally, indulge yourself in a traditional hammam experience at the Isa Begov Hamam Hotel, a beautifully restored hotel/hammam near the Latin Bridge. After days of walking and sightseeing, the steam and scrub left me feeling completely renewed. I’ve visited hammams in Morocco, Jordan and Turkey, and this experience ranks among the best of them.

Places to visit in Sarajevo (map)

I’ve pinned the places mentioned above on the map below:

Sarajevo FAQ

How to get to Sarajevo?

Sarajevo has an international airport with frequent flights to major European hubs as well as farther afield, such as Dubai. The airport is located about 20 minutes from the city centre. There are also many bus lines which connect Sarajevo with other European cities. A train service connects Sarajevo with Zagreb, Croatia.

What currency is used in Sarajevo?

The Bosnian currency is called the convertible mark, which trades at a fixed rate to the euro (0.51 euro for 1 mark). Many restaurants accept euros and credit cards – check in advance to be sure. There are also many ATMs and currency exchange booths in the Old Town.

Is Sarajevo an affordable destination to visit?

Accommodations in Sarajevo are relatively cheap compared to Western European cities. In addition, food and drinks are very reasonably priced. I often ate (well) for around 20 marks.

Is Sarajevo safe?

I was on my own most of the time and never felt unsafe. I did spot signs warning of pickpockets and phone-snatchers in the Old Town, so be aware of your belongings.

How do I get around Sarajevo?

Sarajevo has a public transportation system that comprises trams and buses. Tickets can be purchased from kiosks or the driver. However, the Old Town is best explored on foot.

Note: my visit to Sarajevo was made possible by Meet Bosnia Tours. As always, all opinions above are mine.

My one-week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary

For this first-time trip, I based myself in Sarajevo and explored the rest of the country through day tours with Meet Bosnia Tours, who hosted me on this trip. This setup offered the perfect balance: time to immerse myself in the capital whilst also venturing out to experience the country’s diverse regions. The guides enriched each tour with powerful stories, historical insights and a local’s perspective I never could’ve found on my own. These are the places I visited as day trips from Sarajevo:

Here’s how my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary unfolded:

• Day 1: Arrival in Sarajevo

• Day 2: Sarajevo walking tour and Siege of Sarajevo tour

• Day 3: Day trip to Herzegovina: Mostar, Kravice Waterfall, Blagaj, Počitelj and Konjic

• Day 4: Day trip to Višegrad, and Drvengrad and Šargan 8 Train in Serbia

• Day 5: Sarajevo food and crafts tour

• Day 6: Day trip to Central Bosnia: Travnik and Jajce

• Day 7: Sarajevo morning markets and departure

Day 1: First impressions of Sarajevo

Touching down in Sarajevo, I was greeted by Edin from Meet Bosnia Tours, who became both my guide and my window into the soul of this country. As we drove into the city – through what’s known as Sniper Alley, once one of the most dangerous streets in the world – he pointed out the mountain ridges, where Serbian militia once stood, and bullet-riddled apartment blocks, and shared somber reflections on Sarajevo’s past. The war may be decades behind, but its physical and emotional scars remain visible.

I checked into a charming apartment in the city centre, an ideal base for my adventures. That afternoon, I strolled through Stari Grad, Sarajevo’s Old Town, where East truly meets West. One minute I was walking through Ottoman-era stone alleys lined with copperware shops and mosques, the next I was surrounded by Austro-Hungarian grandeur.

I found a small café in the Ottoman quarter, ordered a local beer, and let the atmosphere wash over me. Something in the air, perhaps the blend of history, cultures and warm hospitality, told me this would be a trip to remember.

Day 2: Sarajevo, stories and survival

My morning began with a guided walking tour through Sarajevo’s layered past – Meet Bosnia offers both free Sarajevo walking tours as well as ticketed tours (in smaller groups). Our guide wove together stories of empires, rebels and war survivors as we meandered through the vibrant Baščaršija bazaar, stood on the Latin Bridge, stopped at the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, and paused at grand buildings echoing Austro-Hungarian elegance.

The multicultural heart of Sarajevo was unlike anything I’d experienced: mosques, churches, and synagogues coexisting within a few minutes’ walk; a quiet yet powerful testament to its diversity. It’s not surprising that Sarajevo is often called the “Jerusalem of Europe”.

Siege of Sarajevo and Fall of Yugoslavia tour

In the afternoon, I joined the Siege of Sarajevo tour. The city endured the longest siege in modern history – 1,425 days – and the tour didn’t shy away from this brutal chapter. We drove through Sniper Alley, and visited the Tunnel of Hope (a tunnel built by the Bosnians under the airport runway to smuggle goods and people), the Yellow Fortress and the remnants of the Olympic bobsleigh track, now eerily reclaimed by nature and graffiti. Despite the heaviness, there was a quiet sense of resilience in every stop, a reminder of how deeply Sarajevo had suffered and how bravely it had survived.

That evening, I found comfort in a plate of ćevapi (Bosnian minced meat fingers) and grilled sausages at Ćevabdžinica Nune, a humble local spot filled with laughter, family pictures and the unmistakable warmth of Bosnian hospitality.

Read more about things to do in Sarajevo.

Day 3: Day trip to Herzegovina

As I gazed out of the van window, streaks of sunshine peeked through, but dark clouds loomed ahead. Still, the shifting sky did little to dull my excitement. Today, I was on my way to see the Old Bridge of Mostar – a place I first glimpsed as a child in an encyclopedia, its graceful arch etched into my memory ever since.

The journey from Sarajevo to Herzegovina was nothing short of spectacular. Our guide filled us in on the origins of the country’s name – Bosnia and Herzegovina, a union of two geographic and cultural regions: Bosnia to the north, lush and forested; and Herzegovina to the south, a more arid, stony terrain edged by the warmth of the Mediterranean.

Neretva Canyon

As we passed through tunnels carved into the towering mountains, I watched the landscape subtly shift. The thick greenery of Bosnia gave way to the rugged cliffs and shrubby mountains of Herzegovina. Then came the Neretva Canyon – a stunning natural corridor where jade-green waters slice through craggy mountains. It’s one of those drives that makes you forget everything else and just stare in quiet awe.

Počitelj, Blagaj Tekke and Konjic

We made several stops along the way. First, Počitelj, an Ottoman-era village clinging to the slope, its stone towers watching over the river. Then came Blagaj Tekke, a serene 16th century Dervish monastery built at the base of a cliff, right beside the turquoise spring of the Buna River – a place that felt almost surreal in its stillness. And in Konjic, we paused to admire its elegant 17th-century Ottoman bridge.

Kravice Waterfalls

Another highlight of this Mostar day trip was our visit to the Kravice Waterfalls, a series of cascading falls nestled in a lush, green bowl. We sat down to a delicious lunch, with the sound of rushing water in the background and a postcard view right in front of us.

Mostar

Our luck with the weather held for most of the day, but as we approached Mostar, the skies finally gave in. Rain came down in sheets!

Still, nothing could stop me from crossing that bridge. Armed with an umbrella and some determination, I wandered through the slick cobblestone alleys of Mostar’s old town, eventually stepping onto the famous Stari Most. Destroyed during the Bosnian War, this 16th century Ottoman-era bridge was lovingly rebuilt and reopened in 2004. The rain had cleared the crowds, and for a brief, magical moment, I had the entire bridge to myself.

Mostar was meant to be the crown jewel of the day, but the unrelenting rain cut our visit short. As we made the decision to head back, I looked back at the bridge, glistening in the downpour, and made myself a quiet promise: next time, I’ll return by train and stay the night. I’ve heard the rail journey from Sarajevo to Mostar is among the most scenic in the country – and now, I have every reason to go back!

Day 4: Day trip to Višegrad & Drvengrad (Serbia) 

One of the more intriguing day trips from Sarajevo led me eastward to Visegrad and into Serbia’s Mokra Gora Nature Park, nestled in the Zlatibor region. Thankfully, I had read the tour details carefully and brought my passport, an essential for this cross-border trip. As we made our way toward the eastern frontier, our guide offered a thoughtful overview of the political geography. This part of Bosnia, near the Serbian border, belongs to Republika Srpska, one of the two constitutional entities that make up modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina, a legacy of the Dayton Agreement that brought peace in 1995.

The road from Sarajevo to Višegrad unfolded like a scenic ribbon through the Romanija mountains, before opening up to a vast plateau brimming with forests and farms. The drive through the majestic Drina River gorge, with its emerald waters framed by sheer cliffs and scattered with nearly 50 tunnels, was one of the most visually arresting of my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary. 

Višegrad

Perched at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav Rivers, Višegrad is a town both beautiful and deeply scarred. Our guide spoke candidly about the harrowing events that took place here during the war, many of which hit close to home for him. It was a somber but important reminder of the resilience of this country.

Višegrad’s enduring symbol is its magnificent Old Bridge, built in 1577 under the command of Grand Vizier Mehmed Pasha Sokolović and designed by Mimar Sinan, the legendary Ottoman architect. With 11 elegant arches spanning the emerald Drina, this UNESCO World Heritage site inspired Nobel Laureate Ivo Andrić’s novel The Bridge on the Drina. Standing there in person, it wasn’t hard to see why.

A short stroll away lies Andrićgrad (Andrić Town), a cultural complex of stone-paved lanes, theaters, cafés, and museums that pays tribute to the writer’s legacy. We paused here for lunch before continuing to the Serbian border.

Dobrun Monastery

Just before crossing into Serbia, we paused at the Dobrun Monastery, a 14th-century Orthodox sanctuary nestled along the Rzav River. With a backdrop of forested slopes, its fresco-covered chapel was a gorgeous sight.

Šargan Eight Railway

Crossing into Serbia was quick and easy that day. Not long after, we arrived at one of the day’s highlights: the historic Šargan Eight Railway. Built in 1925, this narrow-gauge railway is a feat of engineering, winding up the mountain in a figure-eight loop through tunnels and over stone bridges. The vintage train chugged past sleepy hamlets, misty pine forests, and through numerous tunnels.

Drvengrad (Wooden Town)

A short drive from the train station brought us to Drvengrad, also known as Kustendorf, a whimsical ethno-village conceived by acclaimed filmmaker Emir Kusturica as a set for his movie Life is a Miracle. Built almost entirely of wood, the village is now a living hommage to Serbian tradition, complete with a church, gallery and cinema. It’s also the venue for the annual Kustendorf Film Festival, which draws cinephiles from around the world.

Our final stop of the day was the serene Church of St. John the Baptist, hidden deep in the Bele Vode forest, beside a cascade and a spring said to have healing properties. Locals swear by its water, especially for eye ailments, so I gave it a try. I can’t say my vision improved, but it certainly added a fun, folkloric twist to the day!

Day 5: Sarajevo’s Flavours and Crafts

After a string of immersive day trips from Sarajevo, I opted for a slower pace and stayed in the capital. I spent the morning strolling through Sarajevo’s Austro-Hungarian district before joining a Food and Crafts walking tour.

We popped into family-run bakeries tucked into winding alleys and sampled local bites, from flaky börek to syrupy sweets. At a traditional café, our guide showed us how to pour and drink Bosnian coffee the proper way, an art in itself.

Beyond food, the tour introduced us to Sarajevo’s artisans. We visited traditional workshops where copper coffee pots and intricately patterned trays were made by hand, using methods passed down through generations. We also popped into shops selling handwoven carpets and custom-made slippers.

That afternoon, I indulged in a traditional hammam experience at the Isa Begov Hamam Hotel, a beautifully restored hotel/hammam near the Latin Bridge. After days of walking and sightseeing, the steam and scrub left me feeling completely renewed. I’ve tried hammams in Morocco, Jordan and Turkey, and this one ranks among the best hammam experiences, especially because of the welcoming and skilled staff!

Day 6: Day trip to Central Bosnia – Travnik and Jajce

With my energy replenished, I ventured out on the final adventure of my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary: a day trip from Sarajevo to Central Bosnia, a region brimming with charm, history, and pristine nature. The drive westward once again took us through lush forests and lofty mountains. Bosnia never stops impressing with its natural beauty!

Travnik

Our first stop was Travnik, a picturesque town that once served as the seat of Ottoman viziers. Birthplace of Ivo Andrić, the town is cradled between mountains and features a gorgeous blend of Islamic and medieval architecture.

Travnik is overlooked by a medieval fortress, with numerous mosques and historic madrassas (Islamic schools). At the edge of the old town flows the Plava Voda or Blue Water river. It’s a lovely part of the town, with gentle cascades and riverside cafés.

We climbed to the Travnik Fortress, which rewarded us with panoramic views of the town and surrounding hills.

Down below, the Painted Mosque dazzled with its vibrantly decorated interiors, a rarity even within Bosnia. Just beneath it, we paused at Vezirov Dućan, a charming café under the mosque, where I ordered a Bosnian coffee. The café owner watched me pour and smiled, “That’s perfect – just like a local!” Clearly, my lesson the day before had paid off and I beamed with pride.

Jajce

Our journey continued to Jajce, a storybook town famous for its natural and historical landmarks. Before reaching the old town, we visited the serene Pliva Lakes. The lakes glistened, in shades of jade and emerald, in the afternoon sun. We crossed the Bridge of Love and wandered through Mlinčići, a photogenic collection of 16th-century watermills perched above cascading falls.

In Jajce itself, we explored the hilltop medieval castle, which offered beautiful views of the town. We then strolled down to the old town through cobbled alleys, passing the Church of St. Mary, where Bosnia’s last king was crowned in the 15th century, and the medieval Bear Tower.

We ended the day at one of Bosnia’s most iconic natural landmarks: the Pliva Waterfall, where the river tumbles 18 meters into the Vrbas River, right in the heart of the old town. It was a picture-perfect conclusion to my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary.

Day 7: Sarajevo markets and departure

It was my last day in Bosnia, and as my flight from Sarajevo was in the afternoon, I decided to spend the morning visiting two of Sarajevo’s most famous markets. 

Pijaca Markale

My first stop was Pijaca Markale, Sarajevo’s vibrant central market. Beneath its yellow awnings and overflowing crates of produce, the market buzzed with life.

Yet, as I wandered past the food stalls, I couldn’t shake a somber thought. This cheerful place, so full of colour and vitality, was also the site of one of the most horrific events of the Bosnian War. During the siege of Sarajevo, the market was shelled multiple times, attacks which killed dozens of civilians. Standing there, I thought of the lives lost, and how the market today serves not only as a place of commerce but also as a symbol of Sarajevo’s enduring spirit. That contrast – the weight of history against the rhythm of daily life – is something I felt often during my week in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Gradska Tržnica Markale

Just a short stroll from the open-air market, I made my way to Gradska Tržnica, Sarajevo’s historic indoor market hall. I had passed it on my first day in the city and mistook its elegant Austro-Hungarian façade for a concert hall. When my walking tour guide casually mentioned it was a food market, I knew I had to return.

Built in 1895 during the Austro-Hungarian period, the Gradska Tržnica was a marvel of its time, featuring Sarajevo’s first steel-girder roof. Over a century later, it still functions as a bustling local market. Inside, it’s cool and echoey, with neatly arranged stalls offering everything from fresh fruits to meats, cheeses and artisanal treats.

The vendors were welcoming and generous, offering me slices of smoked meats and samples of cheese with a smile. It felt more like a neighbourhood gathering spot than a commercial space.

Alas, it was time to leave. This trip began as a chance encounter but became one of the most fascinating and surprising experiences of my travels. If you’re searching for a Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary that offers depth, diversity, and discovery at every turn, this week-long journey is a perfect place to start.

Note: my one-week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary was made possible by Meet Bosnia Tours. As always, all opinions above are mine.

Bremen is the second-largest city in northern Germany, after Hamburg, and one of the historic Hanseatic cities of northern Europe. For the most part of its existence, Bremen was an independent city at the centre of the League of Hanseatic Cities, a 13th-century northern European network of merchant cities. This network included cities such as Hamburg, Lübeck and Stralsund in northern Germany as well as Gdansk (Poland), Bruges (Belgium) and Riga (Latvia). Bremen flourished during this time – many of the historic buildings that can be seen today were built during this period. It’s this historic legacy, beautiful riverside setting and vibrant atmosphere that make Bremen absolutely worth a visit.

Bremen walking route

My Bremen sightseeing walking route below starts at St. Peter’s Cathedral (St. Petri’s Dom) and ends at the lively Schlachter (Weser River promenade) where you can end your day with a well-deserved drink served with beautiful river views. This route can be done in a day, though I recommend two days if you’d like to visit the attractions suggested below. Along the way, look out for the intriguing bronze statues scattered across the city – the famous ones include The Bremen Town Musicians, Shepherd with Pigs and Brunnen Beim Bade. Each of these statues has its own story or legend to tell.

Things to see in Bremen on a walk around the Old Town

Below, I’ve listed ten things to see and do in Bremen, the first 8 of which are covered by my self-guided walking tour in the same sequence as the route above. I’ve also included some tips about other things to do in Bremen.

1. St. Peter’s Cathedral (St. Petri Dom)

With over 1,200 years of history, St. Peter’s Cathedral (St. Petri Dom) is a silent witness to Bremen’s past. I wandered inside and was struck by the peacefulness and sheer scale. If you’re up for a climb, the South Tower offers one of the best views over the city – but fair warning, the stairs are narrow and steep!

2. Kunsthalle

The Kunsthalle Bremen is an art museum located at one end of Bremen’s Culture Mile. It’s a lovely museum that houses work by famous European artists such as Monet and Cézanne, and paintings and sculptures through to the 21st century.

3. Schnoor Quarter

My favourite part of Bremen, hands down, is the Schnoorviertel (Schnoor Quarter). It’s Bremen’s oldest district, and its name (derived from “Schnur”) means ‘string’ that probably refers to the lines of narrow houses, like gems (or pearls, if you will) on a string. The district consists of around 100 houses built between the 15th and 19th centuries.

It’s such a lovely district to explore. Think crooked lanes, tiny half-timbered houses, and quaint shops selling everything from local crafts to tea. I spent quite a bit of time here, camera in hand, losing track of time, and loving every minute! Get here by 10am and you’ll most likely have the little lanes all to yourself. One other thing to do is to join a guided tour to learn about the stories and legends of Schnoor.

4. Die Glocke

From Schnoorviertel, I continued my walk past the gorgeous St. John’s Church to Die Glocke. I’d seen this concert hall in photos before and I was intrigued by its architecture, a wonderful marriage of Art Deco and Brick Gothic. Competed in 1928, Die Glocke still functions as a concert venue.

5. Böttcherstraße

From Die Glocke, it was a short stroll to my next stop. As soon as I turned onto Böttcherstrasse, I felt like I’d entered another world. This narrow alley, redesigned in the 1920’s in a blend of Expressionist and Art Deco styles, is unlike any other street I’ve seen in Europe. It’s packed with galleries, shops, and even a Glockenspiel House (carillon) with a chime of porcelain bells. I recommend pausing here with a coffee (or a beer) and just soaking up the atmosphere.

6. Marktplatz

The central point of Bremen, the Marktplatz is an impressive square with numerous historic sights:

Deutsches Haus

One of the grand houses that line the northwestern corner of the Marktplatz, the Deustches Haus stems from the Middle Ages and was used as a wine warehouse.

Rathaus and Roland Statue

Across the road is Bremen’s iconic Rathaus (the old town hall). The façade, a prime example of Brick Gothic and Weser Renaissance styles, is a feast for the eyes. It’s adorned with intricate carvings, statues and large windows. I suggest joining a guided tour of the Rathaus to learn about his colourful history and various architectural styles.

Just a few paces away stands the mighty Roland Statue (erected in 1404), sword in hand, symbolising Bremen’s freedom. Together, they’re UNESCO-listed and utterly awe-inspiring.

Rathauskeller

Under the Rathaus lies a massive vaulted space that’s home to one of the largest and oldest wine cellars in Germany! It’s possible to book a tour to visit the cellar – I recommend booking way in advance as I didn’t manage to get tickets even a few days beforehand. As an alternative, I suggest having a meal at the adjacent Bremer Ratskeller restaurant, which I found absolutely stunning!

Bremen Town Musicians

You can’t come to Bremen and miss this! Tucked beside the grand Rathaus, the bronze statue of the Bremen Town Musicians (donkey, dog, cat, and rooster) stands as a tribute to the Brothers Grimm fairy tale. It’s one of the most famous things to see in Bremen – smaller than I expected, but quite endearing. Tradition says touching the donkey’s front hooves brings good luck. Naturally, I obliged. Haha!

Haus Schütting

This ornate building was once the merchants’ guild house and later became the offices of the Chamber of Commerce.

7. Wallanlagen

From Marktplatz, I crossed the historic city centre to Wallanlagen. What was formerly part of Bremen’s medieval defense walls is now a lush park with beautiful views. I enjoyed strolling along the lake (formed by the old moat) and looking out for quirky artworks along the way. There’s also a beautiful windmill to admire, where you can also stop for a drink and a snack.

Near the park, you’ll find one of Bremen’s famous bronze sculptures: the Shepherd and Pigs.

8. The Weser Promenade (Schlachte)

I continued westward to the Weser River and strolled along the Schlachte promenade. It’s especially lively in the warmer months, with outdoor cafés, historic ships, and riverside views. There are many restaurants, beer gardens and alfresco cafés to choose from. The ones I loved, for the wonderful atmosphere, include Luv, Feldmann’s Bierhaus, Paulaner and Alexander von Humboldt (Das Schiff), a hotel/café on a tall-ship from 1906.

I found a shady spot with great views, ordered a Flammkuchen and a beer and watched the boats and the locals pass by. It was the perfect way to end the day. [note: if you choose a self-service alfresco café, the price of the beverage includes a deposit for the glass. You’ll receive the deposit when you return the glass].

You’ll also find numerous food stalls at the Schlachte. If you’re feeling peckish, I recommend getting one of the fischbrötchen (fish sandwiches).

9. Das Viertel

The hipster district of Bremen, Das Viertel, is just a 10-minute walk from the old town. If you have time, I suggest adding this district to your Bremen itinerary. The Ostertorsteinweg, a busy shopping street, is the main thoroughfare through the district. The side streets are filled with art galleries, artisanal studios, shops, cafés and street art. I recommend exploring the area between Bleichesrstrasse/Beim Paulskloster and Sielwall/Hollerstrasse.

10. Other things to do in Bremen

It’s also quite lovely to take a serene cruise down the Weser River to the old industrial and warehouse districts (which have now been redeveloped) and the port area. The cruise starts at the Martinianleger pier and lasts about 2 hours.

You can also choose to cross the Weser River and visit the Weserburg Museum of Modern Art and the Beck’s Brewery.

Northeast of the old town is another Bremen attraction: the Universum Science Museum. Housed in a building that resembles a crashed UFO, this is an interactive museum with many interesting exhibits.

Bremen by night

This walking route can be done in a day but I recommend spending at least a night in Bremen. This gives you more time to explore the city, and you get to see the historic buildings in all their glory when all the day-trippers have left.

Walking through Bremen’s historic centre felt like peeling back layers of time. I particularly enjoyed the architecture of the Marktplatz, Schnoor and Böttcherstrasse, as well as the laidback vibes at the Schlachte. Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, make sure to slow down, look up, and let yourself be charmed. Bremen doesn’t shout for your attention – it simply, and quietly, wins your heart.

Where to stay in Bremen

I stayed at the H+ Hotel Bremen in the heart of the old town. The rooms and beds were comfortable and breakfast was plentiful. Its location, a stone’s throw from the Marktplatz, is fantastic!

For something different, consider staying on the Alexander von Humboldt tall-ship that’s moored at the Weser promenade.

Read more about Germany on Velvet Escape

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• Road trip along the Main River
• Things to do in Berlin
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• History and wine in Rheingau

Twelve things to do in Bologna

1. Stroll under the porticoes

I kicked off with one of my favourite things to do in Bologna: stroll along the porticoes. Built from the late-Middle Ages onwards, these porticoes are synonymous with Bologna, offering shelter for pedestrians on the ground level and additional housing space on the upper levels. Wherever you go in Bologna, it’s a treat to walk under these elegant arches. Some of the best examples can be found along Via Marsala (especially the historic porticoes at Palazzo Grassi), Strada Maggiore (Isolani House) and Via Farini (the examples around Piazza Cavour feature striking frescoes on the ceilings).

If you enjoy a good hike, consider the hike through the porticoes that lead 4 kilometers from the city centre up to the Sanctuary of San Luca in the hills behind Bologna.

2. Explore Piazza Maggiore and its surroundings

Piazza Maggiore is the central point of Bologna. Around it are numerous historic buildings such as the Basilica of San Petronio (with its striking, unfinished façade), Museum of Archaeology, Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio (the 16th century library of the University of Bologna) and adjacent Anatomical Theater, Palazzo d’Accursio (14th century town hall and fine arts museum with a clock tower), Palazzo Re Enzo (a grand 13th century palace) and the iconic Fountain of Neptune. To learn more about the most important sights in Bologna, I recommend joining a walking tour.

3. Visit the Seven Churches

The Basilica of Santo Stefano, located on a piazza of the same name, is a religious complex consisting of numerous churches which were built side-by-side across many centuries in different architectural styles, starting in the 5th century AD.

4. Enjoy a panoramic view

There are numerous medieval towers and enjoying an aerial view is one of the top things to do in Bologna. For the best views of Bologna, head for the city’s iconic Two Towers: Asinelli and Garisenda. Constructed in the 12th century, these towers are a sight to behold (the fact that they’re very visibly leaning adds to the suspense). Read about climbing the Asinelli Tower.

The Asinelli Tower has the distinction of being the tallest leaning tower in Italy, surpassing its more famous sister in Pisa. You can embark the climb up 498 steps inside the tower. I don’t recommend it if you’re afraid of heights as the steps are narrow and steep, but once above, the panoramic views of Bologna are truly astounding.

[Note: due to ongoing restoration/reinforcement work, the Asinelli tower may be closed. Please check in advance.]

For a less-intensive climb, head to the Clock Tower at Piazza Maggiore. There’s a lovely view of the piazza and the city skyline from the terrace.

5. Mingle with the locals

Being home to the oldest (continuously-operating) university in Europe, Bologna is awash with 80,000+ students, giving the city a young, vibrant feel despite its grand age. There’s no better way to soak up this atmosphere than to spend an evening strolling around the University District between Via Zamboni (especially Piazza G. Verdi) and Via delle Molline/Via Mentana/Via Marsala. Drop in for a drink at one of the many student watering holes in this district.

Read more about the ultimate Emilia Romagna road trip

In the summer, the little square in Via Belvedere at the steps of the Mercato delle Erbe come alive as locals crowd into this space for fresh food and delicious wine. The atmosphere is very casual and at times boisterous – small stalls sell a variety of pastas, pizzas and wines, and you can sit at one of the rickety tables or on the stairs of the market for a fun evening with the locals.

I also recommend having an aperitivo (happy hour drink) in the Quadrilatero district (the medieval market) just off Piazza Maggiore.

6. Immerse yourself in Bologna’s cuisine

Bologna is a culinary paradise. It’s not hard to find a good, authentic ristorante, trattoria or osteria in the historic centre. Just follow your nose. Oh, and on a side note: if you see a restaurant offering Spaghetti Bolognese on the menu and you think it can’t get more authentic than this, think again. Spaghetti Bolognese is only served in tourist restaurants. In Bologna, for the authentic experience, try tagliatelle al ragu. Other Bolognese specialties include tortellini, tortelloni, mortadella and cheeses like stracchino and squaquerone. You’ll learn all about this and much more at a cooking course.

If you’d like to buy fresh pasta to bring home, I recommend Le Sfogline (7B Via Belvedere; map), opposite the Mercato delle Erbe (market), where Renata and her two daughters make the best fresh pasta every day.

I also recommend joining a food tour to learn more about Bologna’s amazing food scene. You’ll experience food tastings in various artisanal food shops and markets.

7. Own the streets on Sunday

Every Sunday, the main avenues in Bologna turn into a pedestrian zone. It’s a special treat to walk down these grand boulevards such as Via dell’Indipendenza free of traffic except for the odd bicycle. Performers take to the streets, making it an entertaining stroll, but the ambiance will make the biggest impression on you.

Make sure to also visit the Sunday flea and antique market in Piazza Santo Stefano, also the location of Basilica of San Stefano (a historic complex of seven churches).

Read more about the Art Cities of Emilia Romagna

8. Get your gelato fix!

You can’t miss the ice-cream! My favourite place for absolutely sublime gelato is the Cremeria Funivia at Piazza Camillo Benso Cavour. There’s almost always a queue but it’s absolutely worth the wait!

Other places to get the best gelato in Bologna include Cremeria Santo Stefano (Via Santo Stefano 70), Galliera 49 (Via Galliera 49) and La Sorbetteria Castglione (Via Castglione 44).

9. Find the canals

Not many visitors know this because they’re so well hidden but Bologna has a 60km network of canals running through and around the city! These channels fuelled Bologna’s textile industries in the 13th century. In Via Piella, look for a little wooden window and open it for a gorgeous view of the Reno Canal.

10. Shop for local produce

Once you’ve had your fill of Bologna’s cuisine and tried your hand at making fresh pasta, you’ll be tempted to take some of those ingredients home with you. Head for the Quadrilatero district just off Piazza Maggiore. A maze of little streets and alleys are home to stalls and old shops selling all sorts of delicacies and local wines. One deli you shouldn’t miss is Tamburini (via Caprarie, 1).

11. Whisper sweet somethings at Palazzo del Podestà

At Piazza Maggiore, across the square from the Basilica, stands the Palazzo del Podestà, where you’ll find the tourist office. Inside the building, where the two pathways cross, you might spot people standing in the corners facing the archways, with their backs to you. It’s a curious and fun thing that a local taught me about: due to the amazing acoustics in this space, if you stood in one corner and spoke to the wall (even a whisper), someone standing in the opposite corner will hear every word. The story goes that locals have been expressing their feelings, or breaking good or bad news to one another this way for centuries!

12. Venture into the Emilia Romagna region

Bologna is the railway hub between Rome and Milan, making it the perfect base to explore the region and farther afield (Florence and Venice are a short hop away on the new high-speed lines. See Italo trains or TrenItalia for more information). Emilia Romagna has numerous attractions and historic towns which shouldn’t be missed. Towns that should be high on your list include Ravenna, with its UNESCO Heritage sites, and Modena in the Motor Valley, home of the world famous balsamic vinegar and motor brands such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati and Ducati. You can also head for the beaches of the Adriatic coast, also called the Riviera Romagnola, and from here, inland to one of the smallest countries in the world: San Marino.

Bologna is also a featured destination in the Ultimate Euro Food Trip.

Read about things you must do in Emilia Romagna.

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A paradise for nature lovers

Sabah is absolutely worth visiting, especially for nature lovers. The core of this state features a vast expanse of almost impenetrable tropical jungle that harbours an astonishingly rich variety of flora and fauna. Mighty rivers carve their way through the dense jungle while towering mountain ranges overlook the central and coastal plains. The remote reaches of this state are relatively unexplored and scientists are still finding new species of flora and fauna.

Sabah’s natural sights are truly overwhelming, from the oaks and conifers in the mountains, to lowland rainforest and mangrove swamps that hug the coast. In the numerous nature reserves, you’ll discover the smallest bear, the sun bear; the smallest elephant, the Bornean pygmy elephant; as well as many species of apes and birds. Among the most interesting national reserves are the Kinabalu Park, the Rafflesia Forest Reserve (a reserve dedicated to the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia) – both near Kota Kinabalu; the Danum Valley; the Maliau Basin; and the Kinabatangan River, one of the top wildlife tours in Malaysia.

Places to visit and things to do in Sabah

Kota Kinabalu

The capital of Sabah is Kota Kinabalu (often called ‘KK’), a bustling port city, and with its convenient international airport, functions as the gateway to the treasure chest of natural wonders that Sabah is world-renowned for. In addition, superb white sandy beaches and Mount Kinabalu are just a short boat-ride or drive away. The city has a modest number of sights to boast such as the State Mosque, the floating City Mosque, the Sabah Museum and the Waterfront.

Located just outside the city, the Mari Mari Cultural Village is another interesting tourist attraction. The village is a showcase of the five tribes that inhabited the area. It’s a great place to learn more about Sabah’s diverse cultures.

Kota Kinabalu Waterfront

The Kota Kinabalu Waterfront, with its wide selection of Western and local restaurants and bars is a favourite hang-out for locals and tourists.

Kota Kinabalu markets

The city also has several markets, including the Souvenir Market and Night Food Market (also known as Anjung) at the waterfront opposite Le Meridien hotel, which are well worth a visit. I recommend sitting at one of the stalls of the Night Food Market for a delicious seafood meal. Visit the Central Market (Pasar Besar) to see the latest catch and fresh produce.

For a different market experience, plan a visit to a Tamu, a colourful Sunday market where the indigenous people sell cattle, agricultural produce and handicrafts. The Tamu can be found in Kota Belud or Tuaran, just north of Kota Kinabalu.

Seafood heaven

Kota Kinabalu (KK) vies with other Malaysian cities such as Kuala Lumpur and Penang for having the country’s best cuisine. Many visitors, in addition to using the city as a base for exploring the rest of the state, also come here to savour the fresh seafood (dozens of types of fish, clams, mussels, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, etc…) that is prepared in many mouthwatering ways. Head to the Night Food Market in the evenings or check out restaurants such as Welcome Seafood at the AsiaCity Mall or Suang Tain Seafood and KK Garden Seafood at Sedco Complex.

Tanjung Aru beach

Just a ten minute drive from the city centre is Tanjung Aru beach. The beachfront, lined with a modest variety of shops, restaurants and bars, is a favourite hangout among the locals and tourists who come here for a relaxing drink or meal, or to watch the sunset.

I can also recommend going on a paddle-boarding (stand-up paddling) trip from Tanjung Aru beach. Head North Paddle organises daily sunrise and sunset guided trips – I recommend the sunrise trip as it’s quieter and chances of seeing marine life and Mount Kinabalu are greater. During my trip, I saw some coral and lots of tropical fish (such as ‘Nemo’), starfish, stingrays and a turtle!

Where to stay in Kota Kinabalu

Hotels in Kota Kinabalu I can recommend include Le Meridien (city centre, opposite the waterfront), Hyatt Centric, Shangri-La Tanjung Aru, Pacific Sutera and Magellan Sutera. To the north of Kota Kinabalu lies my favourite beach resort in Sabah: Shangri-La Rasa Ria (it even has its own orang utan sanctuary!). Search for accommodations in Kota Kinabalu.

Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park

Off the coast of Kota Kinabalu lie five islands (Gaya, Manukan, Mamutik, Sapi and Sulug), which together form the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. These islands are popular amongst locals and tourists who come here to enjoy the crystal-clear water and pristine beaches. There are numerous coral reefs, which make the park a great snorkelling and diving destination. Boats for the islands leave from the Kota Kinabalu Jetty. There are several small hotels and resorts on the islands such as Sutera Sanctuary on Manukan Island, the luxurious Gaya Island Resort and Gayana Marine Resort.

To the south of the city lies Ara Dinawan island, a picture-perfect island with thick jungles, pristine beaches and crystal-clear water. The island makes for a wonderful day trip from KK.

Kinabalu National Park

At the centre of this famous national park is Mount Kinabalu (map), at 4,095 meters, Southeast Asia’s highest peak, and a World Heritage site. The mountain rises majestically, towering over the surrounding plains and hills. The shape of the mountain changes continuously as you travel around it. The top of the mountain is crowned by a series of gigantic pinnacles and large granite humps. It is a fascinating mountain which the natives hold in veneration.

The park itself is a treasure trove of plants and animals. With an estimated 5,000 – 6,000 plant species within its boundaries, the park has one of the richest biodiversities in the world. Look out for the insect-eating pitcher plants, and if you’re really lucky, you might stumble upon the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia.

A leisurely trek up to the summit and down takes approximately two days and offers visitors a bewildering display of thousands of plant and animal species, some of which are endemic to the park. It’s also possible to enjoy the natural surroundings of Mt. Kinabalu on a day trip from KK.

See my pictures of Mount Kinabalu taken from the air. Search for accommodations around Mount Kinabalu.

Sandakan

Sandakan (map) is Sabah’s second largest town and is the main gateway to various nature attractions. The town itself has a few attractions such as the Memorial Park (a WWII memorial at a site that used to be a Japanese PoW camp), the Agnes Keith House (the former residence of an American writer who lived in Sanadakan in the 1930’s), the Buli Sim Sim Water Village (a village built on stilts facing the Sulu Sea) and the Central Market. Search for hotels in Sandakan.

Many visitors use Sandakan as the gateway to places such as the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Selingan Turtle Island and Kinabatangan River.

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary

The world famous Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary is located about 25 kilometers from Sandakan. One of the top places to visit in Sabah, the sanctuary is devoted to the conservation of the orangutan, a gentle ape that can only be found in Borneo and Sumatera. The sanctuary lies at the edges of the massive Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve.

A visit to the sanctuary to watch the orang utans in their natural environment is a must for visitors to Sabah. Don’t forget to sign up to adopt an orang utan! Your contribution will go a long way in ensuring the survival of these endangered mammals. Read about my visit to the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary.

Sun bear sanctuary

The sun bear sanctuary is situated across the road from the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary and does similar work to protect and rehabilitate the sun bear, the smallest of all bears.

Rainforest Discovery Centre

Close to the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary lies another natural attraction, the Rainforest Discovery Centre. Here, visitors can learn all about the flora and fauna of the Borneo rainforests, go on a canopy walk and observe nature from the observation towers. Go in the early mornings or late afternoons when the animals are most active. You might spot a variety of wildlife such as orangutans, hornbills and flying squirrels!

Accommodations in Sepilok

There are various accommodations in the Sepilok area. I recommend staying in this area for 1-2 nights to enjoy the various parks at a leisurely pace. One accommodation I recommend is the Sepilok Nature Resort. This resort, tucked away at the edge of the rainforest, is a true paradise! The chalets are very comfortable and each have a deck from which you can see and listen to the forest.

Gomantong Caves

The Gomantong Caves (map) are enormous limestone caves located about a two-hour drive from Sandakan. What makes these caves unique are the edible birds’ nests which are built high in the crevices of the cave’s ceiling, more than 30 meters above the cave floor. The nests have been harvested for centuries by the locals and sold to the Chinese who consider it a delicacy. The caves themselves are a majestic sight. The main chamber is huge and reaches a height of about 40 meters. One corner of the chamber resembles a massive pipe organ, giving credence to the cave’s cathedral-like feel. 

Kinabatangan River

The longest river in Sabah is home to an amazing variety of flora and fauna. Nowhere else in Sabah will you be able to spot the Borneo Big Five: orangutan, crocodile, Proboscis monkey, pygmy elephant and the rhinoceros hornbill, but along the shores of the Kinabatangan River. I’ve been on several river safaris here and it remains one of my favourite places to visit in Sabah!

I recommend spending a few days at one of the riverside lodges (near the village of Sukau) to truly appreciate the majestic nature. Go on several river safaris in the mornings, late-afternoons and evenings to see the different animals. Read about my Kinabatangan River Safari.

Sabah’s islands

Sabah’s coast boasts some of the most pristine islands in Malaysia. Put on your snorkel or diving gear and explore the rich and varied underwater world. Some of the world’s best diving sites are found off the islands of Sipadan, Mabul and Layang Layang.

Sipadan is Malaysia’s only oceanic island. Just off the beach, a spectacular coral wall drops 600 meters down to the sea floor. Explore the rich diversity of multi-coloured soft and hard corals and experience swimming among manta rays, huge parrotfish, barracudas, a variety of sharks including hammerheads and a host of other brightly coloured tropical fish. Sipadan was made famous the world over by renowned explorer Jacques Cousteau.

For a close encounter with Green and Hawksbill turtles, head for the Turtle Islands Park. One of the best places to spot whale sharks, the planet’s largest fish, is Lankayan island, located in the northeastern corner of Sabah, in the Sulu Sea. Sightings of the whale shark are very regular during the months of April and May. Mantanani island, just north of Kota Kinabalu also offers excellent snorkel and diving opportunities. Check out the Sutera Mantanani Resort.

Danum Valley

The serious nature lover will be awed by the vast array of plant- and animal life in the Danum Valley. All of Sabah’s mammals and most of its birds (including eight species of hornbills) can be found here.

Maliau Basin

For the adventurous, head for the Maliau Basin, a large area completely surrounded by a high limestone escarpment (rather like a caldera). When this area was first explored in the 1990’s, it was termed the ‘Lost World’ as the impenetrable rainforest made it virtually impossible for humans to inhabit this area. As a consequence, many new plant and animal species have been found here. A conservation and management programme has been started, aided by both local and foreign scientists. The basin is also famous for its magnificent seven-tier Maliau Falls.

How to get to Sabah

Kota Kinabalu is the main gateway to Sabah. Its modern airport (BKI) has frequent flights to many regional hubs such as Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong, Seoul and Tokyo. From Kota Kinabalu, there are connections with other towns such as Sandakan, Tawau and Lahad Datu. You can also fly to Sandakan from Kuala Lumpur.

Read more about Malaysia on Velvet Escape:

• Things to do in Melaka
• Things to do in Penang
• Things to do in Kuala Lumpur
• Adventures on Perhentian Island

Things to do in Pezenas

Pézenas (map) can trace its history back to the Middle Ages. During the 16th-17th centuries, it became the seat of the Governors of Languedoc, which turned the town into an important administrative centre. During this time, the region’s wealthiest and most influential families settled in Pézenas, where they built lavish mansions (known as known as hôtels particuliers).

The town is also famously associated with the playwright Molière, who found inspiration and support in Pézenas during his early career. The well-preserved old town is a tantalising maze of cobbled lanes and squares filled with ornate buildings and mansions that reflect its aristocratic heritage. It’s this heritage that makes Pezenas one of the most beautiful towns in Occitanie to visit. Here’s how to spend a day in Pézenas:

Wander around the old town

A stroll through the maze of lanes in the old town is like taking a step back in time. The stately architecture and abundance of artisanal shops make it a delight to explore. Key highlights include:

• Hôtel des Consuls – This grand 16th-century building showcases the town’s former political significance.
• Molière Monument – A tribute to the famed playwright, located near the heart of town.
• Rue de la Foire – A lively street filled with antique shops, art galleries and traditional craft stores.
• Collegiate Church of Saint-Jean – A striking 14th century church with a beautiful Romanesque interior.
• Museums – if you’d like to learn more about the town’s colourful history, I recommend visiting Musée de Vulliod Saint-Germain. For something a bit quirky, but absolutely fascinating, visit the Musée de la Porte (yes, a Door Museum!).

Browse around the shops

During your walk, you’ll very quickly spot numerous artisanal shops and art galleries. From trinkets to local handicraft and beautiful antiques, there’s a lot to spark your interest. I especially loved how the shop owners decorate the lanes, inviting visitors to enter into historic houses filled with vaulted spaces and shady courtyards.

Enjoy the local cuisine

There’s a plethora of cafés, bistros and restaurants in Pézenas that serve local specialties and wines. One of the town’s specialties is a sweet and savoury pastry called Petit Pâté de Pézenas. You’ll be (very) surprised to discover that this little cotton reel shaped pastry, often filled with minced meat and spices, was introduced to the town by the Indian cook of a visiting British nobleman in the 18th century!

During my several visits to Pézenas (yes, I returned a few times after that first visit!), I had some terrific meals at Les Palmieres, La Ripaille, La Mamita and Chez Hansi. If you’re visiting during the busy summer months, I recommend booking a table in advance.

Visit a nearby winery

One of my favourite things to do in Pezenas is visiting a nearby winery for a wine-tasting and/or meal. Pézenas is surrounded by some of the finest vineyards in the Languedoc region, known for their robust reds and elegant whites. During my numerous trips to the area, I always made it a point to drop in at one of the nearby wineries. My favourite winery is Seigneurie de Peyrat, just outside the town.

I loved touring the estate and indulging in the wonderful Pique-nique Chic, a wine-tasting accompanied by local breads, cheeses, meat and jams. It’s an absolutely delightful experience! I recommend calling the winery beforehand to book a spot.

Other nearby wineries I’ve been to include Domaine Saint Hilaire, a gorgeous estate offering tastings and guided tours, and Domaine de Nizas, known for its high-quality Syrah and Grenache blends.

If you’re touring the South of France, visiting nearby cities like Béziers or Montpellier, or spending your holidays at the coast, I recommend going on a day trip to Pézenas. It’s an absolutely delightful town, with a great mix of historic, gastronomic and cultural attractions. You can opt to spend a night in Pezenas or in the surrounding area, which is absolutely beautiful.

The Tuschinski Theater, Amsterdam’s most beautiful and historically significant cinema, is a masterpiece of architectural flair and cultural heritage. Located in the city centre, a stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein, this theater, opened in 1921, is a stunning blend of architectural styles from that period. It was the vision of Abraham Tuschinski, a Polish Jewish entrepreneur whose dream was to create the most luxurious movie theater in the world. He certainly achieved that! Carefully restored to its former grandeur, the Tuschinski Theater today remains a much-loved venue for film buffs and architectural enthusiasts alike. In 2021, Time Out named Tuschinski Theater as ‘The Most Beautiful Cinema in the World”, and I wholeheartedly agree (though, obviously, I’ve not been to all of them).

I’ll never forget my first visit in the early 90’s: I felt like I’d been transported back to the 1920’s as soon as I stepped through the front doors. The grand foyer, with its sweeping staircases, wood panels and richly decorated walls, is both opulent and colourful. In the main hall, I was met with wood-panelled VIP boxes, velvet seats and a warm, golden glow. As I walked further inside, I gasped in awe at the stunning murals and the magnificent Art Deco light fixtures. It was clear to me then that a visit to the Tuschinski Theatre is a lot more than just to watch a movie; it’s a magical journey to a lavish, bygone era.

The vision of Abraham Tuschinski

The story of the Tuschinski Theater begins with its founder, Abraham Icek Tuschinski. Born in 1886 in Brzeziny, Poland (then part of the Russian Empire), Tuschinski initially trained as a tailor. However, his ambitions stretched far beyond his trade. In the early-20th century, he attempted to emigrate to America but decided to stay put in Rotterdam where he saw the growing popularity of cinema.

Tuschinski opened his first movie theater in Rotterdam in 1911, quickly expanding his business to include several cinemas. His dream was to create a grand movie palace that would transport audiences into a world of elegance and spectacle. In 1919, he chose Amsterdam for his ultimate project, commissioning architect Hijman Louis de Jong, and later Willem Kromhout, to bring his vision to life. The result was the Tuschinski Theater, which opened on October 28, 1921. In the following years, Tuschinski added more luxurious features and artistic elements to elevate the grandeur.

A unique fusion of architectural styles

The Tuschinski Theater is a magnificent example of eclectic early-20th century architecture, blending multiple styles into a harmonious whole. The exterior, with its two towers, is heavily influenced by the Amsterdam School, an early-20th century architectural movement known for its expressive forms and intricate brickwork.

The building also incorporates elements of Art Nouveau, Jugenstil and Art Deco, creating an eye-catching and unique aesthetic. I especially love the sculptural texture and colourful stained glass windows of the façade.

Tuschinski interior

Every detail of the Tuschinski Theater’s interior was designed to create an opulent and dreamlike atmosphere. Inside, the theater is a feast for the senses. The interior design, overseen by artists such as Pieter den Besten and Jaap Gidding, features rich ornamentation, stained-glass windows, elegant woodwork and elaborate murals.

The main hall (‘Grote Zaal’), with its lavish carpeting, golden accents, murals and atmospheric lighting, evokes the grandeur of an old-world opera house.

One of the most striking elements of the interior is the lighting design. The warm, glowing lamps and ceiling fixtures, inspired by the designs of Art Deco master Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, bathe the space in a golden hue, making the entire theater feel intimate and magical.

After the opening of the theater in 1921, various religious and political groups complained that the theater was too decadent. Numerous ornaments were removed or covered, and murals were painted over.

The fate of Abraham Tuschinski

Abraham Tuschinski’s story took a tragic turn during World War II. His cinemas in Rotterdam were destroyed as a result of the Nazi invasion in 1940. As a Jewish businessman, he became a target of the Nazi occupation. In 1942, he was arrested and deported to Auschwitz, where he perished. The Tuschinski Theater was taken over by the Nazis and renamed Tivoli during the occupation. After the war, the theater’s original name was restored, and it continued to serve as one of Amsterdam’s premier cinemas.

Royal Theater Tuschinski

In 2019, the owner, Pathé Nederland, executed a vigorous renovation in conjunction with the theater’s centenary in 2021. The theater was carefully restored to preserve its original splendour – ornaments and furnishings were recovered and murals were restored – while incorporating modern technology. On its 100th birthday, the theater received the honorary title of ‘Royal’ from the Dutch monarch.

Today, its main hall retains its historic charm while featuring state-of-the-art projection and sound systems, allowing visitors to enjoy films in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. There are five other halls, with Halls 2 and 3 restored to their original state with resplendent murals by Pieter den Besten. The corridor that connects the Tuschinski Theater with the adjacent Arthouse is decorated with Asian-inspired artwork and motifs.

The best ways to experience the Tuschinski Theater

Visiting the Tuschinski Theater is, in my book, one of the top things to do in Amsterdam. There are several ways to experience this magnificent cinema:

• The best way to enjoy the theater is to watch a movie in its stunning main hall. Arrive 15-20 minutes earlier to enjoy and admire the gorgeous interior. Choose from a variety of seats, such as the luxury VIP boxes (‘Loges’), single seats in the hall or balcony or ‘Love Seats’ (spacious sofas for two persons).
• Opt for a luxurious VIP experience with reclining seats and private service, perfect for a special occasion.
• The theater offers 45-minute audio tours that showcase its rich history, architecture, and hidden details.

A lasting legacy

More than a century after its opening, the Tuschinski Theater remains one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world. Its combination of architectural beauty, rich history and cinematic tradition makes it a cultural treasure in Amsterdam. Whether you’re a film enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply someone who appreciates timeless elegance, a visit to the Tuschinski Theater is an unforgettable experience.

Read more about Amsterdam on Velvet Escape

• My stay at nhow Amsterdam RAI Hotel
• STRAAT street art museum
• Fabrique des Lumieres multimedia art show
• Best photography spots in Amsterdam
• Day trips from Amsterdam

What to do on a long layover at Heathrow Airport

If your Heathrow layover is longer than 4 hours or if you have an overnight stay at a Heathrow hotel, it’s worthwhile to consider one of the nearby places to visit or even a quick trip to central London. For shorter layovers, I recommend staying at the airport. Browse around the shops, dine at one of the eateries or spend your time comfortably at an airline lounge (or purchase an entry ticket for a premium lounge).

Here are my suggestions for things to do near Heathrow Airport if you have a longer layover:

1. Visit a village along the River Thames

There are several picturesque villages situated on the banks of the River Thames, and within 30 minutes by minicab to Heathrow, that are well worth a visit to stretch your legs, grab a quick bite and take some pretty snapshots. The closest village I can recommend is Datchet (map), roughly 15 minutes by minicab from Heathrow. Other villages I can recommend are Marlow (map) and Bray (map), home of two of the best restaurants in the UK (The Fat Duck and The Hinds Head). Both villages are approximately 30 minutes by taxi from Heathrow Airport. In Marlow, I can recommend staying overnight (if your overlay permits) or having a delicious meal at the MacDonald Compleat Angler, a 4* star hotel with two restaurants and lovely views of the River Thames.

2. Grab a pint in Denham or at Britain’s oldest pub

You’ll need a minicab for this trip, but it’s a simple journey along the M25 (about 15 minutes). Denham (map) is a picturesque village with a number of wonderful traditional pubs; visit The Swan for a taste of the local Rebellion Brewery’s ale. The village’s single street is flanked by fine Georgian brick and older half-timbered houses; a walk across the golf club is a pleasant way to work up an appetite.

If you really want to find a traditional gem of a pub though, you’ll have to take to the winding, steep green lanes that lead to the Royal Standard of England near Beaconsfield (map). The Royal Standard of England is perhaps the best pub near Heathrow Airport for a pint amidst a unique historical ambiance. The 30-minute drive from Heathrow feels like a voyage into ancient England, and this 800-year-old pub (arguably Britain’s oldest pub) seems hardly to have changed since the Tudor age, with low ceilings and panelled walls. There’s a wide selection of beers from craft breweries as well as ciders and perries, and good food – but turn up early, as the pub quickly gets crowded.

3. Experience Little India in Southall

Fancy a taste of Indian culture?  No need to fly to Mumbai!  A completely different experience is within easy reach of Heathrow in Southall with its vibrant Indian culture. Shop for saris or fabric in the covered shopping arcades, or visit Jas Musicals to buy a bansuri (flute) or to gaze at sitars and tablas. The train route from Heathrow to Southall is slightly convoluted on the Piccadilly line and overground but it’s only a short 15-minute minicab ride away.

For food, you’ll find plenty of great curries in Southall – but there’s so much more to Indian food. Buy a crisp, freshly-fried samosa on the street, or Indian sweeties like barfi (fudge) or rasgulla (sweet dumplings).

You’re also welcome to visit the Sikh Gurdwara in Havelock Road – said to be the largest Sikh temple outside India.

4. Wander around Windsor and Eton

Windsor Castle is linked to Heathrow by the 71 or 77 bus from Terminal 5 (±45 minutes by bus or 20 minutes by minicab). You can also book a Windsor tour that includes transfers from/to Heathrow and admission tickets.

It was founded by William the Conqueror and still retains some of the original Norman work, though it’s been much added to over the centuries. It’s still a working royal palace, too, where the ceremonies of the Order of the Garter take place in the fine Perpendicular chapel of St George. The castle was also the venue of the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle in May 2018, and where Queen Elizabeth II was laid to rest in September 2022.

Even if you don’t feel in the mood for castle visiting, if the weather’s fine you can take a walk in Windsor Great Park with its majestic avenues of chestnut and plane trees and views of the castle across the landscape.

The 60/61 bus on the other hand will take you to Eton College, Britain’s top public school across the river from Windsor. Guided tours of the college show amongst others the Chapel, with its tall Gothic windows and late medieval wall paintings.

5. Take your kids to Legoland UK

For families travelling with kids, a trip to Legoland UK is a good way to keep the kids occupied and entertained during a long layover. It’s not far from Windsor, and there’s a shuttle bus from Windsor railway station, or you could drive the 12 miles from Heathrow (±20 minutes by minicab). Purchase Legoland Windsor tickets.

6. Visit Hampton Court Palace

Hampton Court Palace is one of my favourite places in the UK. It has everything: Tudor red brick architecture with medieval charm; intricate zig-zag spiral chimneys; Christopher Wren’s classical architecture; a maze; formal gardens; rich tapestries, great paintings, bright stained glass; the Thames running not far away. You can even get a bus from Heathrow, number 111 (± 1 hour) – though there is also an alternative, delightful opportunity of taking a riverboat to the palace if you are coming in from central London. Get fast track tickets for Hampton Court Palace.

7. Go plane-spotting at Myrtle Avenue

If you’re an aviation fan, like I am, Heathrow is one of the best airports in the world for plane-spotting. You can remain inside the terminal and watch the planes, but a more adventurous and exciting option is to head to Myrtle Avenue (map), a popular plane-spotting site located near Runway 27. When Runway 27L is in use (check Flightradar24), the sight and sound of planes landing are incredible! You can take a cab there (about 8 minutes) or the Tube (Piccadilly Line) to Hatton Cross Underground Station, then walk 10 minutes to Myrtle Avenue. If you’re hungry, head to the nearby Duke of Wellington gastropub.

8. Visit Central London

If you have a layover of longer than 6 hours, consider a visit to Central London. Hop on the Heathrow Express or Elizabeth Line train (more info below) and explore this incredible city. Visit some of London’s top attractions such as the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, or the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, go on a Thames River cruise or simply wander around Covent Garden. The choices are endless! Check out some of these tours.

Can I go sightseeing during a layover at Heathrow Airport?

If you’re considering leaving Heathrow Airport for some sightseeing during a layover, please check if you meet the following requirements:

• your layover is at least FOUR hours long
• your bag is checked through to your final destination or you’re travelling with hand-luggage only, and you have your boarding pass for your next flight. If this is not the case, you’ll need a layover of at least 6 hours for a bit of sightseeing activity
• you have a visa or can confirm that you don’t need a visa to enter the United Kingdom. Read the ‘Visas’ section below for more information
• you can be back at the airport at least 1.5 hours before your next flight; or at least 2 hours if you need to check-in for your next flight.

Should I venture into Central London?

If you have sufficient time (layovers of six hours and longer) for a visit to Central London, I recommend taking the Heathrow Express train which gets you to Paddington Station in 15 minutes. You can also take the new Elizabeth Line train from Heathrow to several stations in Central London, including Paddington Station, Bond Street, Tottenham Court Road and Liverpool Street (±45 minutes). Ticket prices for the Elizabeth Line are the same as the London Tube and you can use your Oyster Card should you have one.

Choose from a wide range of tours in Central London, purchase a ticket for the Hop-on, Hop-off Bus (which includes a Thames River cruise) or explore this amazing city on your own with a London Pass. Alternatively, you can opt for a private transfer – the driver will greet you at Arrivals and drop you off at your address in Central London. Make sure you’re back at Heathrow Airport at least 1.5 hours before your flight (2 hours if you need to check-in for your next flight). It’s also possible to book a private tour of London that includes pick-up/drop-off at Heathrow.

Check out my travel planning resources page for travel tips and advice.

Overnight layovers in London

If you have an overnight layover, you could:

• book a hotel in the vicinity of Heathrow Airport
• book a hotel in Central London. I would recommend this option if your layover is for more than 20 hours. If you have a short overnight layover (> 20 hours) but choose to stay in central London, I recommend booking a hotel in the vicinity of Paddington Station. Travel to/from Paddington Station in Central London on the Heathrow Express train (a 15-minute journey).

If it’s your first visit to London and you have limited time, I recommend booking a tour on the Hop-on, Hop-off Bus (which includes a Thames River cruise). You should be back at Heathrow Airport at least 1.5 hours before your flight.

Visas

If you have a non-EU passport, have connecting flights at London Heathrow Airport and would like to see some of these places during your layover, please check for visa requirements to enter the United Kingdom. US citizens who have a valid passport are not required to obtain a visa for a tourist visit to the United Kingdom (stay of up to six months). Should you require a visa, you can apply for an online visa (iVisa.com).

A post by Andrea Kirkby and Keith Jenkins.

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Hamburg to Berlin road trip itinerary

This route from Hamburg to Berlin takes you through medieval Hanseatic towns, fairytale castles, stunning Baltic Sea landscapes, and expansive forests. Spanning 650 km, I visited Lübeck, Wismar, Schwerin, Rostock, Stralsund, Rügen, Neubrandenburg and Neustrelitz, and explored UNESCO-listed sites and nature reserves. Many of these towns were part of the Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and towns stretching from the Baltic coast to the North Sea. Formed in Germany in the late-12th century, the League expanded in the 13th-14th centuries to include other parts of northwestern Europe. During this period, important buildings in northern German Hanseatic cities were constructed in the Brick Gothic style. Many of these monuments can still be seen today.

There are of course other places in northern Germany that I would’ve liked to visit, such as Bremen and Lüneburg, but considering the time I had (one week), I had to be selective.

The total driving distance of this route is ~650 km. I kept driving times to a minimum (the longest stretch was 2.5 hours) to allow myself more time to explore each place. I did this trip in one week but 10 days will allow you to spend more time in both Hamburg and Berlin. This was my itinerary:

• Day 1: Hamburg (1 night)
• Day 2: Lübeck and Schwerin (overnight in Schwerin)
• Day 3: Wismar and Rostock (overnight in Rostock)
• Day 4: Stralsund and Rügen (overnight in Rügen)
• Day 5: Rügen (overnight in Rügen)
• Day 6: Neubrandenburg and Neustrelitz (overnight in Neustrelitz)
• Day 7: Berlin

Here are the top places to visit in Northern Germany covered by this route, as well as things to do and see in each place.

1. Hamburg: The Gateway to the World

My adventure kicked off in Hamburg, Germany’s second-largest city, where I picked up my rental car. I’ve visited Hamburg several times before but it’s always a treat to explore the old town and the historic Speicherstadt (UNESCO-listed warehouse district).

I also got to visit the futuristic Elbphilharmonie, and enjoy the lively atmosphere of Reeperbahn and St. Pauli. I can also recommend a harbour cruise to see the city from the water as well as admire the giant ships in the port. Read more about things to do in Hamburg. I recommend spending 2-3 nights in Hamburg. Search for accommodations in Hamburg.

2. Lübeck: The Queen of the Hanseatic League

From Hamburg, I drove 70 km, or roughly 1-hour, to Lübeck. This city was high on my list of places to visit in northern Germany, and I wasn’t disappointed. Lübeck’s Brick Gothic architecture and well-preserved medieval old town make it a must-visit.

Highlights include the Salzspeicher, Holstentor Gate, St. Mary’s Church, and the historic Town Hall. Don’t leave without trying Lübecker Marzipan at the famous Niederegger Café. Read more about things to see in Lübeck (includes a walking route). Lübeck can easily be seen in a day on foot, or you can join a guided tour along the historic highlights and hidden courtyards.

3. Schwerin: The Fairytale City

I continued my road trip to Schwerin, approximately 73km or a 1+ hour-drive from Lübeck. If you enjoy walking in nature, I suggest visiting the nearby Schaalsee, a UNESCO Biosphere reserve. There are numerous walking paths through the moorlands and forests, and past beautiful lakes.

Schwerin is best known for its stunning castle, often called the ‘Neuschwanstein of the North’. Walk around Schwerin Castle and its gardens, visit the Schwerin Cathedral, and enjoy a relaxing lakeside stroll. I suggest spending a night in Schwerin. You can also join a guided tour of Schwerin.

4. Wismar: A Hidden Baltic Gem

My next stop was Wismar, a historic town north of Schwerin (30km or a 30+ minute drive). Wismar is a UNESCO-listed town that showcases Hanseatic architecture and a picturesque harbour. Like much of Germany’s Baltic coast, Wismar was part of Sweden for several centuries until the 19th century. Traces of this Scandinavian past can still be seen today.

The highlights of Wismar include the Altstadt (old town, with its Brick Gothic architecture); Marktplatz, one of the largest medieval market squares in northern Germany – look out for the beautiful Wasserkunst fountain and the Alter Schwede house; the 15th century St. Nikolai Church, Wassertor (a Gothic harbour gate), the Welt-Erbe Museum (World Heritage Museum) and the fascinating City History Museum.

I also recommend a stroll around the harbour, where you can grab a fischbrötchen (fish sandwich), a specialty in this part of Germany.

5. Rostock: A Historic Port City

From Wismar, I drove 62km (< 1 hour) to Rostock, a vibrant Hanseatic city with a historic university, medieval buildings, and a lively harbour. It’s a small city that’s especially popular with Germans in the summer who come here to wander its charming streets and enjoy the beaches of nearby Warnemünde.

Visit the 16th century St. Mary’s Church and admire the astronomical clock; the lovely Universitätsplatz (University Square); Kröpeliner Tor (the last remaining medieval tower gateway) and the nearby remnants of the old city walls; and Neurmarkt (New Market). You can also join a guided tour of Rostock. I recommend spending a night in Rostock. Search for accommodations in Rostock.

If you enjoy a beach stroll, head to Warnemünde, where you can enjoy the beach and climb the lighthouse.

If you have more time to spare, I suggest driving northeast from Rostock along the Baltic coast to the Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft National Park. This expansive national park is home to a great variety of birdlife, dunes, lagoons and wild beaches.

6. Stralsund: Gateway to the Baltic Sea

My next stop was Stralsund, a lovely Hanseatic town roughly 75km or a 1+ hour drive from Rostock. Stralsund’s UNESCO-listed old town features medieval brick buildings, colourful gabled houses and a picturesque harbour.

Visit the harbourfront, where you’ll also find the Ozeaneum (Oceanarium). Then make your way into the old town and explore the Alter Markt, surrounded by impressive Hanseatic buildings such as the Rathaus (City Hall).

Read more about things to see in Stralsund (also includes a walking route). Stralsund can easily be covered in a day. You can choose to spend a night in Stralsund or continue to the island of Rügen, which is connected by a bridge with Stralsund.

7. Rügen: Cliffs, Beaches and Forests

Rügen, Germany’s largest island, is famous for its white chalk cliffs in Jasmund National Park, lush forests, sandy beaches and lagoons. It sure was a pleasure to drive around the ever-changing landscapes of Rügen.

Visit the resorts of Binz and Sellin, stroll through the Prora Nazi-era complex, climb the impressive Baumwipfelpad (treetop path) and visit charming towns such as Putbus and Vitt. Read about about the best places to visit in Rügen (includes a road trip route around the island).

I suggest spending 2-3 nights in Rügen, in places such as Putbus or Sellin. I made Putbus (the ‘white town’) my base. It’s located 32km from Stralsund or a 30+ minute drive.

8. Neubrandenburg: The City of Four Gates

From Rügen, I headed in a southerly direction towards Berlin. My first stop was Neubrandenburg, about 130km/1.5 hours from Rügen. Neubrandenburg is famous for its medieval city wall, one of the best-preserved in Germany, and its four imposing gates. Don’t miss the impressive Friedland Gate and the adjacent city walls, the gorgeous 13th century St. Mary’s Church and the lively Marktplatz.

9. Neustrelitz: The Heart of Mecklenburg’s Lake District

Continuing from Neubrandenburg, it’s a lovely 30-minute drive past the Tollensesee (Tollen lake) and lush forests to Neustrelitz. Once the capital of the Duchy of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Neustrelitz has a serene lakeside setting and a town centre in the Baroque style. Visit the Schlosspark and the neo-Gothic Schlosskirche (Palace Church) and stroll along the beautiful Zierkersee (Zierker lake).

Less than a 30-minute drive from Neustrelitz lies Müritz National Park, a paradise for bird-watching and hiking.

Neubrandenburg and Neustrelitz can be visited in a day. You can choose to drive on to Berlin or spend a night or two in the Neustrelitz area. Berlin is about a 2-hour drive away.

10. Berlin: The Vibrant Capital

My northern Germany road trip ended in Berlin, Germany’s vibrant capital. I’ve been to Berlin many times so I headed straight to the airport where I dropped off my rental car. However, I highly recommend spending a few days in this amazing city. Search for accommodations in Berlin.

Explore the city’s rich history with visits to Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, the Berlin Wall, Museum Island and Berlin Cathedral. Check out my post about how to spend a few days in Berlin. If you have more time to spare, consider visiting nearby Potsdam as well. Famous for its palaces and historic old town, Potsdam is an easy day trip from Berlin.

This Northern Germany road trip is a perfect mix of history, culture, and nature. From the fairytale Schwerin Castle to the dramatic cliffs of Rügen, and from ancient Hanseatic towns to Berlin’s buzzing streets, every stop offers something unique. The highlights for me were the beautiful medieval towns, with their rich Hanseatic history, and the lush nature of Rügen.

Read more about other road trips in Germany

• Main River road trip in Franconia
• The castles of King Ludwig II
• Discovering the origins of Bauhaus in Germany
• History and wine in Rheingau

A brief history of Monopoli

Monopoli’s history stretches back over two millennia. The town was originally settled by the Messapians in the 5th century B.C. and later became part of the Roman Empire. Its name, derived from the Greek “Monos Polis,” meaning “unique city,” reflects its strategic importance as a trade and defensive port. Over the centuries, it was influenced by Byzantine, Norman, Venetian, and Spanish rulers, each leaving their mark on the town’s architecture and culture. Today, Monopoli is famous for its well-preserved historic centre, where narrow streets wind between centuries-old buildings.

Things to see and do in Monopoli

My Puglia road trip started at Bari Airport where I picked up my rental car. From there, I headed straight to Monopoli (map), less than an hour’s drive away. Due to my late-afternoon arrival, I decided to spend a night in Monopoli before continuing to Lecce, and I’m glad I did. Monopoli is an absolute gem! By staying the night, I got to stroll around the town in the evening, a truly enchanting experience. Monopoli can easily be covered on foot in a day but I recommend staying a night. Here are the top things to see and do in Monopoli:

1. Historic centre (centro storico)

The heart of Monopoli is its charming old town, filled with narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses, and colourful flower pots. It’s a treat to explore its hidden courtyards, artisan shops and centuries-old churches. A highlight is Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, a lively square surrounded by cafés and restaurants, that’s perfect for people-watching.

2. Castello Carlo V

Overlooking the sea, this 16th-century fortress was built to defend the town from Ottoman raids. These days, it hosts art exhibitions and events, and offers stunning views of the Adriatic from its walls.

3. Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Madia

This Baroque cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is one of Monopoli’s architectural masterpieces. The cathedral houses the revered icon of Madonna della Madia, said to have miraculously arrived on a raft in 1117. Its ornate interior is absolutely beautiful. The current structure, in Baroque style, was completed in 1772, but the cathedral has its origins in 12th century.

4. Porto antico (old port)

The old port is the soul of Monopoli, where traditional fishing boats (known as “gozzi”) in bright blue and red hues bob in the water. Strolling around the harbour at sunset was one of my favourite things to do in Monopoli.

5. Beaches

The coast around Monopoli offers a string of beautiful beaches, from sandy coves to rocky inlets. Cala Porta Vecchia, located near the historic centre, is a favorite for its turquoise waters and easy access. Further down the coast, a short drive away, are numerous small beaches surrounded by low cliffs, with crystal-clear water in stunning shades of blue. These include Cala Cozze, Porto Bianco, Porto Verde, Porto Rosso and Cala Paradiso.

6. Palmieri Palace, Via Portavecchia and sea walls

The elegant Palmieri Palace, dating back to the 18th century, stands as a testament to Monopoli’s noble past. From here, walk to Via Portevecchia to check out the beach, and along the Via S. Vito. Visit the Church of St. Vitus Martyr before continuing along the sea wall. The sea wall offers a scenic promenade with breathtaking views of the Adriatic.

Places to visit near Monopoli

Monopoli’s central location makes it a perfect base for exploring the province of Bari and beyond such as the Valle d’Itria (Itria Valley). Popular nearby destinations include:

• Polignano a Mare (9 km): Famous for its dramatic cliffs and caves, this town is a must-visit for its photogenic views and beach. You can also opt for a boat tour along the coast from Monopoli to Polignano a Mare.
• Alberobello (21 km): A UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its iconic trulli houses.
• Martina Franca (33 km): One of the most beautiful towns in Puglia, Martina Franca offers a tantalising mix of grand Baroque architecture and charming lanes lined by whitewashed houses. Read more about things to see in Martina Franca.
• Ostuni (39 km): The “White City”, perched on a hill, cannot be missed. With its ancient cobblestone streets, grand churches and quaint white houses, Ostuni truly is stunning.
• Bari (45 km): The capital of the province of the same name, Bari boasts a rustic old town consisting of a maze of alleys, piazzas and historic buildings that’s a delight to explore. Read more about things to see in Bari.

Where to stay in Monopoli

There are various accommodation types in Monopoli, from grand palazzo’s to self-catering apartments and B&B’s. I spent the night at Albergo Diffuso (see below) but visited several other accommodations to see their offerings. It’s a wonderful experience to stay in the historic centre – one I recommend – but if you have a car, note that you’ll have to park it outside the centre and haul your luggage over the cobblestone streets to your accommodation.

1. Don Ferrante Dimore di Charme

Set within the historic walls of a fortress overlooking sea, this boutique hotel combines elegance and tradition. Its luxurious rooms and panoramic rooftop terrace make it a romantic choice.

2. Palazzo Indelli

Located in Piazza Garibaldi, this 16th-century palazzo offers modern amenities in a historic setting. It’s ideal for travellers wanting to stay in the heart of the old town. The beach and harbour are just a stone’s throw away.

3. Albergo Diffuso

This lovely accommodation consists of rooms and self-catering apartments spread around the old town. My room was located on the first floor of a charming house in a quiet lane. It wasn’t a large room but it was more than sufficient for a night’s stay.

4. Masseria D’Erchia

Just outside the old town, this historic complex provides a unique stay surrounded by olive trees. It’s perfect for a tranquil escape in stylish surroundings.

Where to eat in Monopoli

I had a fantastic dinner at Il Guazzetto and a wonderful lunch the next day at Vini e Panini. The other restaurants on this list are recommendations by the hotel manager.

1. Osteria Perricci

A family-run institution, this restaurant serves fresh seafood and traditional Puglian dishes in a rustic setting.

2. La Locanda sul Porto

Located by the harbour, this restaurant offers a mix of seafood and pasta dishes with beautiful views of the old port.

3. Vini e Panini

For casual dining – I loved sitting on the terrace – this cosy eatery specialises in gourmet sandwiches, local cheeses and wines. It’s a wonderful lunch spot in the old town.

4. Il Guazzetto

A modern seafood restaurant blending tradition with creativity. Their raw seafood platters and risottos are superb!

5. Lido Bianco

A classy waterfront restaurant with glass walls for optimal sea views. Enjoy Mediterranean dishes with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, paired with a gorgeous Puglian wine.

Tips for visiting Monopoli

The ideal time to visit Monopoli is in late-spring (mid-May to June) or early-autumn (September-October) when the weather is warm, and the crowds are fewer. If you’re visiting by car, there are numerous parking facilities outside the old town such as the public parking area at the harbour. Some of the accommodations outside the old town offer free parking on the premises.

The top things to see in Monopoli can easily be covered on foot, especially the old town. For nearby beaches and day trips, renting a car is recommended. Read more about Puglia.

Zaanse Schans is a picture perfect open-air museum in the countryside near Amsterdam (map). Whenever I have friends or family visiting me for the first time, Zaanse Schans is always one of the first places I take them to. With its windmills, traditional wooden houses, workshops, museums and picturesque riverside setting, Zaanse Schans is a great place to get a first taste of Dutch heritage and history. And… it’s so pretty! There are numerous things to see and do in Zaanse Schans. Visitors can walk freely around the village and visit some of the windmills, artisanal workshops and museums (some of the attractions charge a small entry fee). On a recent visit, I spent more time in the Zaans Museum and learned a lot about the history and industrial significance of the Zaan region in 18th century Europe.

The creation of Zaanse Schans

Zaanse Schans was established in the 1960’s as a preservation project. Its purpose was to save and showcase historic buildings from the surrounding Zaan region. Many of the structures were carefully relocated to this area to protect them from demolition. Originally planned for housing purposes, the village became an instant hit with tourists. In the 1970’s, the village was expanded to include facilities for tourists. Today, Zaanse Schans is a living museum, showcasing the architectural and cultural legacy of North Holland.

Zaanse Schans is more than just a tourist attraction. For me, it’s a wonderful tribute to Dutch ingenuity and resilience. The extensive use of windmills symbolise the resourcefulness of the Dutch, who harnessed nature to power their industries. It’s also a showcase of how the locals, driven by innovation, continuously reinvented their industries to cater to the demands of different periods of time.

Zaan region – the industrial powerhouse of Europe

In the 17th – 19th centuries, the Zaan region was the most important industrial area in Europe. The region was historically significant due to its innovative use of wind power. At its peak, over 600 windmills operated here, powering sawmills, oil presses, and other industries such as shipbuilding. This made the region one of the first industrialised areas in the world (powered by clean energy!), laying the groundwork for modern manufacturing processes.

In the late-19th century, the windmills made way for steam-powered machines. During this time, the region was known for its cocoa and rice processing industries. Zaan industries continued to boom after the completion of the North Sea Canal in 1876, that connected Amsterdam and the Zaan region with the North Sea. In the first half of the 20th century, the region became known as the ‘larder of the Netherlands‘ due to its extensive food production industries. Various Dutch food brands such as Verkade (chocolates and biscuits) and Lassie (rice), as well as the largest Dutch supermarket chain, Albert Heijn, have their roots in the Zaan region.

What to see and do at Zaanse Schans

Visitors to Zaanse Schans will find many attractions and activities that bring Dutch history and craftsmanship to life. Here are things to see and do in Zaanse Schans:

1. Explore the windmills

Zaanse Schans is home to several fully operational windmills, each with a unique purpose. Some grind spices, others produce paint, and one even presses oil. Popular windmills to visit include:

• De Kat: a windmill that produces pigments for paint
• De Zoeker: used for extracting oil
• Het Jonge Schaap: a sawmill showcasing traditional woodworking techniques.

Many of these windmills are open to the public, and you can climb inside to see the intricate mechanisms at work.

2. Discover traditional crafts and workshops

Various houses were converted into workshops and and exhibition areas. Visitors can learn about numerous traditional Dutch crafts such as weaving, clog- and cheese-making. There’s even a tinsmith where one can learn about 18th century tinware. 

3. Visit historical houses and museums

The village is dotted with well-preserved wooden houses painted in the iconic green and white hues of the Zaan region. Some now serve as museums, including Museum Zaanse Tijd (Clock Museum) and Museumwinkel Albert Heijn (reconstruction of the first Albert Heijn grocery store from 1887, now an iconic Dutch supermarket chain).

The Zaans Museum, located in a newly-built complex, is well worth a visit. It offers a broader historical context of the region, with exhibits on industrial innovations and traditional costumes.

4. Scenic walks and boat rides

Stroll along the Zaan River to enjoy stunning views of the windmills, riverside houses in Zaan style and the countryside. Alternatively, visitors can opt to join a boat tour for a unique perspective on the area’s waterways and historic buildings.

Whether you’re admiring the spinning blades of a windmill, savouring a piece of freshly made cheese, or walking along the cobblestone paths of this historic village, Zaanse Schans promises a fascinating dive into Dutch heritage. It’s a must-visit for anyone eager to explore the Netherlands’ traditions, artistry and innovation.

Planning your visit

Zaanse Schans is located about 20 minutes by train or car from Amsterdam, making it an easy day trip. Most attractions are open from 9am to 5pm. It’s a popular tourist attraction so I recommend going in the mornings or late-afternoons. The best times of the year to visit Zaanse Schans are in spring and summer as they offer the most vibrant views, with lush greenery and tulip blooms. Autumn and winter provide a quieter, more intimate experience.

For the best, most informative experience, I suggest joining a small group tour.

While walking through the village is free, some attractions, like the windmills and museums, charge a small admission fee. Purchase the Zaanse Schans ticket for entry to all attractions and museums.

Visiting by train

The Zaandijk/Zaanse Schans train station is located about a 20-minute walk away. It’s a lovely walk that passes a cocoa processing plant (you’ll get to enjoy the scent of cocoa along the way), a windmill and a bridge that offers beautiful views of the Zaan River.

I also suggest exploring the Langedijk street in the village of Zaandijk. In this street, you’ll find gorgeous houses in the Zaan architectural style.

Read more about things to do in Amsterdam and other places to visit near Amsterdam:

• Things to see in Alkmaar
• Things to see in Haarlem
• Things to do in Amersfoort
• Things to do in Utrecht

The Amsterdam School architectural style can be found throughout the city but it’s especially prevalent in the districts of Amsterdam Zuid (South) and Spaarndammerbuurt. It’s one of my favourite architectural styles and I’m always on the lookout for it during my walks around the city. Scroll down to see a suggested walking route in Amsterdam Zuid past numerous highlights of Amsterdam School architecture.

Origins of the Amsterdam School architectural style

The Amsterdam School wasn’t a ‘school’ per sé but rather a movement that emerged during a period of significant social change in The Netherlands. By the early 1900s, the Industrial Revolution had spurred urbanisation, leading to overcrowded, impoverished neighbourhoods in many cities. In Amsterdam, a wave of social housing projects began, motivated by the belief that architecture could contribute to a better society.

Hendrik Berlage – the founding father of Dutch Modernist architecture

Hendrik Berlage was an influential architect in the late-1800’s. Often credited for introducing Modernist architecture in The Netherlands, his most famous buildings include the Beurs van Berlage (Commodities Exchange) in Amsterdam.

Plan Zuid

In the early-1900’s, Berlage was invited to submit plans for the rejuvenation and expansion of various districts in Amsterdam. One of his largest projects was Plan Zuid, a large development of Amsterdam’s southern districts which the city council approved in 1917.

A team of architects, amongst whom, Michel de Klerk and Piet Kramer, was recruited to execute Berlage’s Plan Zuid. However, they didn’t share the same architectural vision as Berlage. Inspired by the artistic forms of Expressionism, these architects deviated from Berlage’s more ‘traditional’ Modernist style and designed buildings in a style that came to be known as the Amsterdam School.

The Amsterdam School style was rooted in socialist ideals, with the belief that workers deserved well-designed, attractive housing that would promote community and dignity. Michel de Klerk embraced the concept of “aesthetic socialism” — the idea that beautiful architecture could inspire a better way of life for the working class.

Characteristics of the Amsterdam School style

Known for its expressive, ornamental, and often whimsical forms, the Amsterdam School style belongs to the broader (Brick) Expressionist movement but is highly distinctive in its own right. The style was used in the design of entire neighbourhoods but also bridges, bridge houses, public urinals, fonts, sculptures and furniture.

The architecture of the Amsterdam School is instantly recognisable due to its organic shapes, intricate brickwork and sculptural façades. This style not only reflects a unique design philosophy but also captures a moment of social and cultural transformation in Amsterdam in the early-20th century. The key characteristics of the Amsterdam School style include:

Ornamental brickwork

One of the hallmarks of Amsterdam School buildings is their intricate, decorative brick façades. Rather than following a flat, straightforward design, these facades often have unique shapes, patterns and textures. Look out for wavy façades made of brick, or names and text incorporated into the brickwork.

Expressive forms

One element I love about the Amsterdam School style is its expressive forms. Elegant curves, rounded corners and asymmetrical shapes give each building a unique sculptural quality.

Use of natural materials

Materials like brick, wood, iron and glass are used in ways that highlight their natural qualities. Rooflines are typically curved or steeply pitched, and windows and doors often feature stylised attention to craft and detail.

Ornate details and symbols

Amsterdam School buildings and bridges often incorporate symbolic details, like sculptures and reliefs that depict historical or mythical themes. You’ll find them at ground level, above doorways or on the corners of a building. Many of these sculptures were created by Hildo Krop, the ‘City Sculptor’ of Amsterdam. Spotting these sculptures is one of many fun things to do in Amsterdam.

Unique fonts used for names and house numbers are another Amsterdam School style element I love looking out for!

Influential architects of the Amsterdam School

Several architects were pivotal in defining and shaping the Amsterdam School movement. The most notable figures include:

Michel de Klerk (1884-1923)

Often considered the pioneer of the Amsterdam School, de Klerk designed some of the style’s most famous buildings, like the Het Schip complex in the Spaarndammerbuurt. He believed that architecture should be an art form and a social service, creating a sense of pride and beauty for everyday citizens.

Michel de Klerk also worked extensively with Piet Kramer (see below) to design housing blocks such as De Dageraad.

Piet Kramer (1881-1961)

Known for his work with bridges and public buildings, Kramer contributed to Amsterdam School projects, particularly in public works. His designs often feature highly imaginative and expressive forms, including sculptural details and unusual shapes. Kramer designed about 200 bridges in Amsterdam!

Johan van der Mey (1878-1949)

Often credited with starting the Amsterdam School style, van der Mey’s Scheepvaarthuis (Shipping House) was one of the first major buildings to embody the movement’s ideals. This building was notable for its elaborate ornamentation and decorative sculptures (primarily by Hildo Krop) that celebrated the Dutch maritime industry.

Cornelis Kruyswijk (1884-1935)

Kruyswijk, another proponent of the Amsterdam School movement, was one of the architects recruited to execute Berlage’s Plan Zuid scheme. He designed entire housing blocks in the Rivierenbuurt, as well as 14 schools in Amsterdam.

Hildo Krop (1884-1970)

Though not an architect, Krop collaborated extensively with the architects of the Amsterdam School on creating stone sculptures and ornamental carvings for their buildings. In 1956, Krop was officially appointed as the ‘City Sculptor’ after 40+ years of service. You’ll find his works scattered across Amsterdam, primarily on buildings, bridges and parks.

Famous examples of Amsterdam School architecture in Amsterdam

Amsterdam remains the best place to see examples of this architectural style, with several iconic buildings that highlight the distinct aesthetic of the Amsterdam School. See the map below for the locations.

Het Schip (The Ship)

Perhaps the most famous Amsterdam School building, Het Schip was designed by Michel de Klerk in 1919. Located in the Spaarndammerbuurt, it was originally a housing complex built for working-class residents. Its distinctive, ship-like shape (hence the name “The Ship”), elaborate brickwork, and whimsical details make it one of the best examples of Amsterdam School design. Het Schip now houses the Amsterdam School Museum, where visitors can learn more about the style’s history. Purchase tickets for Het Schip here.

Scheepvaarthuis (Shipping House)

Designed by Johan van der Mey and completed in 1916, the Scheepvaarthuis was a commission from six Dutch shipping companies. The building’s design reflects the pride of the Dutch maritime industry, with its decorative facades featuring nautical motifs and sculptural elements. It’s one of the earliest examples of the Amsterdam School style and is particularly significant for its detailed ornamentation, combining architecture and sculpture in a celebration of Amsterdam’s maritime history. Today, the Scheepvaarthuis serves as the Grand Hotel Amrâth Amsterdam, and visitors can see its intricate details up close.

De Dageraad (The Dawn)

Another housing complex designed for working-class residents, De Dageraad was a collaboration between Michel de Klerk and Piet Kramer. Completed in the 1920s in the De Pijp district, the building exemplifies Amsterdam School principles with its rounded forms, ornamental details, and beautiful brickwork. A visitor center is located at De Dageraad where exhibitions and walking/cycling tours are frequently organised. Purchase tickets for De Dageraad here.

The neighbourhood surrounding De Dageraad is in the Amsterdam School style. I suggest walking around these streets: Burgemeester Tellegenstraat, P.L. Takstraat and Coöperatiehof.

Tuschinski Theater

Completed in 1921, the Tuschinski Theater is a stunning example of eclectic architectural styles from the early-20th century. Leaning heavily on the Amsterdam School, the theater also includes elements of Jugendstil, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Read more about Tuschinski Theater, named “the most beautiful cinema in the world”.

Bridges by Piet Kramer

As Amsterdam expanded, it needed new infrastructure, including bridges. Piet Kramer designed many of the city’s bridges in the Amsterdam School style. His bridges are more than mere utilitarian structures; they incorporate decorative elements, unique shapes, and materials like wrought iron that evoke the style’s aesthetic.

Olympic Stadium

The Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam, built for the 1928 Olympics and designed by Jan Wils, features elements of the Amsterdam School style, including its distinctive use of brickwork and stylised shapes. The stadium’s organic form and decorative touches make it a notable structure in the context of Amsterdam School design.

Muzenplein/Kinderbrug

This little square (Muzenplein) and bridge (Kinderbrug) connect two famous Amsterdam avenues: Churchill-laan and Apollolaan. It’s home to a concentration of sculptures by Hildo Krop and other artists.

Amsterdam School walking route in Amsterdam Zuid (South)

You’ll find Amsterdam School architecture throughout the city, with concentrations in the Amsterdam Zuid district and the Spaarndammerbuurt. Here’s an easy Amsterdam School architecture walking tour from the Amstel Station to Apollolaan, which you can do in a few hours. It passes numerous Amsterdam School architectural highlights such as the Piet Kramer bridge, housing districts along the Amstelkanaal (Jozef Israelskade), Victorieplein, De Dageraad and ends at Muzenplein.

The Amsterdam School is one of the most distinctive architectural movements to emerge from The Netherlands. If you’re a fan of architecture, exploring Amsterdam through its Amsterdam School buildings offers a fascinating journey into an artistic movement that combines functionality with creativity and social responsibility.

Read about the Bauhaus movement, another Modernist style that emerged in Germany at roughly the same time as the Amsterdam School.

Read more about Amsterdam on Velvet Escape

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• Street art in Amsterdam
• Day trips from Amsterdam
• Photogenic spots in Amsterdam
• Snow and frozen canals in Amsterdam

George Town, the capital of Penang, is one of my favourite cities to visit in Malaysia. I’ve been there many times and the city never ceases to amaze. It’s a fascinating palette of cultural, historical, and architectural diversity that has flourished over centuries. Perhaps its biggest draw is its fantastic food scene – I, for one, will never pass up an opportunity to go on a foodie splurge in Penang! Another of George Town’s great attractions, at least for me, is its gorgeous architectural heritage. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, George Town boasts an impressive array of heritage buildings that reflects its colonial history, Chinese influences, and the unique Peranakan (or Straits Chinese) culture. These buildings, and their interiors, are a fascinating and elegant fusion of Eastern and Western architectural styles.

The historical legacy of George Town

George Town was founded in 1786 by Captain Francis Light of the British East India Company and quickly became a bustling port city. Its strategic location along East-West trade routes and its free port status attracted merchants and immigrants from throughout Asia, including the Chinese, Indians and Arabs. Over the centuries, these cultures left their marks on the city, contributing to its multicultural identity.

However, the most defining community of George Town is the Peranakan, or Straits Chinese. The Peranakan were descendants of Chinese immigrants who came to the region as early as the 15th century and settled in the Malay Archipelago. Their culture is a remarkable blend of Chinese traditions, Malay customs, and colonial European influences. The architecture of George Town’s heritage buildings are a remarkable reflection of this blend of customs and traditions. For visitors, one of the best things to do in Penang is stroll around George Town and admire the beautiful façades.

Heritage buildings of George Town

The architecture of George Town is a visual narrative of the city’s diverse heritage. Its buildings fall into several distinct categories: colonial British, Chinese shophouses, Peranakan mansions and religious structures such as mosques and temples. These buildings, many of which were constructed between the 19th and early 20th centuries, display intricate design elements that are a blend of different cultural and architectural traditions.

1. Chinese shophouses

The iconic shophouses of George Town form a large part of the city’s architectural identity. You’ll see them in virtually every street in George Town. These narrow, two- or three-story buildings are typically long and deep, with commercial space on the ground floor and living quarters above.

The front is characterised by a shady portico on the ground floor, a five-foot way and upper floor windows with wooden shutters. The façades are often adorned with decorative tiles and wrought-iron grills. These shophouses, built between the late 18th and early 20th centuries, combine Chinese architectural elements such as U-shaped terra cotta roof tiles and butterfly-shaped air vents, with European features, including neoclassical arches and colonial columns.

2. Peranakan mansions

The homes of the wealthy Peranakan families are some of the most lavish examples of George Town’s heritage architecture. Peranakan mansions blend Chinese, Malay and European styles, featuring ornate wood carvings, beautiful porcelain tiles and grand central courtyards. These mansions often have elaborate detailing on their façades, with motifs like phoenixes, peonies, and dragons that symbolise prosperity and longevity.

A prime example of an extravagant Peranakan Mansion is the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, also known as the Blue Mansion. Built in the late 19th century, it reflects the affluence of its owner, Cheong Fatt Tze, a wealthy Chinese merchant. The mansion is renowned for its striking indigo-blue walls, traditional Chinese feng shui design, and the use of Scottish cast-iron railings and Art Nouveau stained glass, making it an eclectic fusion of East and West.

Many of these Peranakan mansions have been converted into restaurants or boutique hotels. Staying at one of these heritage boutique hotels is a great way to immerse yourself in the George Town’s history and culture. Some boutique hotels I can recommend include Seven Terraces, Jawi Peranakan Mansion, 23 Love Lane, Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion and Macalister Mansion.

3. Colonial British architecture

As a former British colony, George Town’s cityscape also features colonial buildings that exemplify European neoclassical and Palladian architectural styles. These structures, with their grand, symmetrical facades, were the centre of government and commerce during British rule.

Penang Town Hall is a prominent example of Edwardian Baroque architecture, with its grand columns, intricate stonework, and symmetrical design. The Eastern & Oriental Hotel, established in 1885, is another symbol of colonial opulence, blending Victorian and neoclassical styles in its design.

4. Religious architecture

George Town’s diverse heritage is also reflected in its religious buildings. The 18th century Kuan Yin Temple, the oldest in Penang, showcases Chinese architecture with its sweeping rooflines, intricate carvings, and ceramic tiles.

Other temples, some built by powerful Chinese clans, that are absolutely worth visiting include the Hainan, Khoo Kongsi, Cheah Kongsi and Yap Kongsi temples.

The Kapitan Keling Mosque, built by Indian Muslim traders, features Mughal-style domes and minarets that stand as symbols of the city’s religious pluralism.

The St. George’s Church, the oldest Anglican church in Southeast Asia, is another key landmark that highlights colonial religious architecture.

You can learn more about these heritage buildings during a half-day historical city tour.

Peranakan culture in George Town

At the heart of George Town’s heritage are the Peranakans, whose culture has shaped the city’s identity. The Peranakan, or Straits Chinese, developed a unique culture that combined traditional Chinese customs with Malay influences. This blending is evident in their clothing, cuisine, language and architecture.

Peranakan homes were not just residences but also statements of wealth and cultural pride. These mansions often housed extended families and served as the social hub for community gatherings and celebrations. The interiors of these homes – with their airy courtyards – were filled with intricate furniture, porcelain wares, and lacquered wood screens. These are symbols of Peranakan refinement and their embrace of both local and European styles.

The Peranakan love for vibrant colours and ornate design is evident in their architecture. Examples include the detailed tiling, stucco work and decorative wooden panels found in their homes. The Pinang Peranakan Mansion, originally the home of a wealthy Peranakan merchant, is now a museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the lifestyle, traditions and artistry of this community.

Famous heritage buildings in George Town

In addition to the previously mentioned mansions and colonial buildings, there are several other notable heritage buildings in George Town:

Khoo Kongsi Clan House

One of the most magnificent Chinese clan houses in Malaysia, the Khoo Kongsi is an architectural gem with its elaborate roof, adorned with dragons, and walls covered in intricate carvings. The Khoo clan, one of the most prominent Chinese family clans in Penang, used it as a communal hall.

Khoo Kongsi is a symbol of the Chinese clan’s prestige and success in Penang. It’s an architectural wonder that includes decorative sculptures and traditional carvings that depict tales of Chinese legends and gods.

Cheah Kongsi Clan House

The Cheah Kongsi Clan House and ancestral temple is one of the most charming clan houses in George Town. Opened in 1810, it’s also one of the oldest. The temple, with its impressive carvings and beautiful sweeping roof, is especially striking.

Suffolk House

A stunning Anglo-Indian mansion built in the early 1800s, Suffolk House was once the residence of Penang’s colonial governors. It’s considered to be one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture in Southeast Asia.

George Town, Malaysia, is not just a city of heritage buildings but a vibrant, living museum where architecture tells the story of its diverse communities and their shared history. The unique mix of Peranakan, Chinese, Malay, Indian, and European architectural influences has given the city a distinct and irresistibly charming character. Exploring the heritage buildings of George Town is a journey through time, offering visitors a glimpse into a world where East meets West.

Tarraco – Tarragona’s Roman past

The real founding date of Tarragona is unknown but it flourished during the Roman period, when it was called Tarraco. During this time, the city was an important trading and military post for the Romans and enjoyed great wealth. Surrounded by thick walls and guard towers, the city had an impressive Circus and Amphitheatre as well as numerous Forums. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the city was captured by the Visigoths, and later the Moors during the Arab Conquest in the 8th century A.D.

The Archeological Complex of Tarraco was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2000.

Things to see in Tarragona on a walk around the city

This Tarragona self-guided walking tour can be done in a day and starts/ends at the Tarragona train station (where there are frequent trains to Barcelona and other towns along the coast).

1. Mediterranean Balcony

If you’ve arrived by train, exit the train station on the western side and turn right. Continue along the path towards the Mediterranean Balcony – you can take the stairs or an elevated walkway with a gradual ascent. It’s a bit of a climb but you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and the lovely Platja del Miracle (‘Miracle Beach).

Here, you’ll also find the top end of the Rambla Nova, a mile-long boulevard with a pedestrian concourse in the middle.

2. Roman Amphitheatre

Our next stop is one of the top things to see in Tarragona: the Roman Amphitheatre. With breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea, this ancient structure dates back to the 2nd century A.D. and was used for gladiatorial combat and even the execution of early Christian martyrs. During its heyday, it had a capacity for 15,000 spectators!

3. Roman Circus to Plaza del Fórum

Across the road from the Amphitheatre stands another important relic of the city’s Roman past: the Roman Circus. Built in the 1st century A.D., it was once used for chariot races and could hold up to 30,000 spectators. Although much of the circus is now buried beneath modern buildings, parts of it are still accessible, including the subterranean galleries that give a sense of the immensity of the original structure.

Next door to the Roman Circus stands the medieval Torre de les Monges, a castle that was part of the 14th century city walls. Adjacent to the Roman Circus, you’ll also find Torre del Pretori, a tower that offers stunning views of the city and the surrounding coastline.

From the Roman Circus, walk along Carrer de Santa Ana to the Plaza del Fórum, a lively square built on the remains of the Roman Provincial Forum, once the heart of public life in ancient Tarraco.

These days, this vibrant plaza blends the old with the new, with Roman ruins integrated into modern urban life. Cafés and restaurants line the square, making it a perfect spot for a drink or meal. Sit back and enjoy the atmosphere amidst fragments of ancient Roman columns and stones.

4. Tarragona Cathedral and the medieval quarter

Make your way through the heart of Tarragona’s medieval old town to the 12th century Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Tecla, the city’s patron saint. Located at the highest point of the city, this Gothic-Romanesque cathedral dominates the skyline and serves as a reminder of Tarragona’s medieval heritage.

Inside the cathedral, don’t miss the beautifully preserved cloister and a museum showcasing religious artifacts, including exquisite altarpieces and medieval tapestries. Purchase your entrance tickets here.

The cathedral’s surroundings are equally enchanting – cobblestone streets, quaint squares, and charming cafés give the area a timeless feel.

Be sure to take a moment to sit at Plaça de la Seu, the small square in front of the cathedral, where you can admire its grandeur while enjoying the lively ambiance of the area. I had lunch at Restaurant Casa Balcells, directly opposite the Cathedral, and can definitely recommend it. Next door to the restaurant, you’ll find Casa del Cambrer, a mansion with a gorgeous courtyard – check it out if the doors are open.

5. Passeig Arqueològic (Archaeological Promenade)

After visiting the Cathedral, I recommend wandering around the atmospheric lanes of the medieval old town.

Then continue towards the Passeig Arqueològic, a scenic walkway that traces part of the ancient Roman walls that once encircled the city. Built in the 3rd century B.C., these well-preserved walls are some of the oldest Roman structures in Spain. As you stroll along this promenade, you’ll pass through towers, arches and gates that have stood the test of time.

Along the path, informative plaques provide insights into the history of Tarraco, making it a perfect spot for those who want to learn more about Tarragona’s origins.

6. Plaça dels Sedassos

Backtrack a bit to the old town and make your way to Plaça dels Sedassos, a lovely square known for its vibrant murals that adorn the façades of the surrounding buildings. This lively area is a popular meeting point for locals and visitors alike, with plenty of outdoor seating to enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine.

7. Rambla Nova

No walking tour through Tarragona would be complete without a stroll down Rambla Nova, the city’s main boulevard. Lined with shops, cafés, and impressive buildings, this wide avenue is great for people-watching and soaking up the local atmosphere.

From Plaça dels Sedassos, continue this walking tour to Rambla Nova and enjoy a stroll along the pedestrian boulevard. The Rambla is home to several monuments and sculptures, including the Font del Centenari, a grand fountain. Further down the avenue, don’t miss the towering Monument als Castellers, a tribute to the region’s unique tradition of human towers, or “castells”. Read about my visit to a castellers school.

8. Mercat Central de Tarragona

The Mercat Central de Tarragona (Central Market) is one of my favourite places to visit in Tarragona! It was designed by Josep Maria Pujol de Barberà, one of the architects of Catalan Modernism in Tarragona, and built in 1915.

The huge hall houses many stalls packed with the freshest produce, meats and seafood. In between are lively bars where you can sit, have a drink and a bite, and immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere.

9. Colonial Forum of Tarraco

A short walk from the Mercat Central lie the ruins of the Colonial Forum. Here, you’ll find several columns and the remains of the court of justice.

10. El Serrallo: Fishermen’s Quarter

For a change of scenery, head towards the port. Along the way, you’ll pass the Tarraco Arena, a circular arena that once hosted bullfights but is now used for casteller events, cultural shows and concerts.

Continue towards the port to El Serrallo, Tarragona’s traditional fishermen’s quarter. This charming neighbourhood offers a glimpse into the city’s maritime heritage, with narrow streets, colorful houses and a boat-filled harbour.

El Serrallo is famous for its seafood restaurants, serving up some of the freshest dishes in the city. Grab a seat and order a grilled fish, paella or traditional Catalan seafood stew – it’s the perfect way to experience Tarragona’s culinary scene.

From El Serrallo, it’s a 15-minute walk back to the train station. Along the way, you can choose to visit the National Archeological Museum, which is home to an impressive collection of Roman mosaics, sculptures and other artefacts.

Pont del Diable (Devil’s Bridge)

Located slightly further from the city centre, the Pont del Diable, or Devil’s Bridge, is another attraction in Tarragona. This Roman aqueduct, part of the water supply system for the ancient city, stretches 217 meters long and stands 27 meters high. The structure is remarkably well-preserved. It remains, till this day, a testament to the engineering prowess of the Romans.

Tarragona is a city where ancient history and modern life coexist harmoniously in a compact area, making it perfect for a walking tour. I absolutely enjoyed my day trip to Tarragona and wished I could’ve stayed longer. Whether you’re fascinated by Roman ruins, captivated by medieval architecture, or simply want to enjoy the Mediterranean atmosphere, Tarragona is a great city to visit as a day trip from Barcelona or Salou. However, if you have more time, I suggest spending 1-2 nights to enjoy this gorgeous city.

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Details in design: the carpets of Changi Airport

Changi utilises carpeted flooring at the transit and check-in areas in all four terminals. The terminals all sport different colours and patterns, from vibrant Van Gogh-style swirls to soothing earthy tints. This helps to give each terminal a unique ambiance. The carpets are not only aesthetically pleasing, they’re also functional: they help to reduce noise and soften acoustics, and make for a more comfortable walk. The last point is crucial, considering how big the airport is, and the distance transit passengers have to cover especially if they’re switching terminals.

Walking around Changi Airport – I’ve now been to all four terminals and the spectacular Jewel – is indeed a pleasure. Despite being one of the busiest airports in the world, it feels and sounds remarkably subdued. The carpets do their job well in absorbing the noise of footsteps, trolleys and vehicles. They’re soft enough to cushion a footstep but sufficiently firm to support a trolley bag (without the wheels sinking into the carpet), though the drag becomes more noticeable the longer you walk. Check out my photos of the carpets at the Changi Airport terminals:

Terminal 1

Terminal 1 sports a variety of carpet designs. I especially like the Van Gogh-esque blue swirls, though if you’re feeling very jet-lagged, they can have a dizzying effect. Haha! Don’t fret because Terminal 1 also has other, more soothing designs.

Terminal 2

I walked the entire length of Terminal 2 and I don’t recall seeing another carpet design other than this blue-orange-cream amorphous pattern.

Indoor gardens of Terminal 2

One design element that I love in Terminal 2 are the indoor gardens. I visited the Enchanted Garden and the absolutely magical Dreamscape Garden.

The Dreamscape garden features more than 20,000 plants from 100 different species draped onto 18 towering columns, and a constantly changing digital ceiling. A serene light-and-sound show is played every 30 minutes at the Dreamscape garden.

Terminal 3

Terminal 3 has several carpet designs. I especially like the vibrant blue design in the Crystal Garden concourse, perhaps my favourite of all the designs because of its cheery character.

Terminal 4

Changi Terminal 4 is mostly utilised by low-cost airlines. It’s bright, airy and features an impressive avenue of trees. The shapes of the large ceiling lights are reflected in the carpet design. In the social media discussion I had about Changi Airport carpets, this purple colour attracted the liveliest comments!

Have you been to Changi Airport? If so, what do you think of the carpets? Which designs are your favourites?

I can’t wait for my next visit to Changi Airport! If you’re passing through, don’t miss the spectacular Jewel gardens and waterfall! Find out how to see Jewel from the different Changi Airport terminals.

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A brief history of Potsdam

Potsdam’s history dates back to the early Middle Ages, first mentioned in 993 as a small Slavic settlement. However, its transformation into the city we know today began in the 17th century under Frederick William, the “Great Elector” of Brandenburg. In the 18th century, Frederick the Great made Potsdam his residence, turning it into a centre of military, cultural, and architectural innovation.

During the era of Prussian rule, Potsdam became known for its palaces and grand buildings, with the Sanssouci Palace standing as the city’s crowning achievement. The city played a significant role in European affairs. Even after Prussian rule ended in the early 20th century, Potsdam continued to be a city of historical importance. It gained worldwide recognition in 1945 as the site of the Potsdam Conference, where the Allied leaders met to determine post-war Europe.

Things to see in Potsdam

With its beautiful architecture, world-class museums and vibrant districts, a walk through Potsdam offers a glimpse into the past while enjoying the charm of the present. Let’s embark on a self-guided walking tour through the heart of Potsdam, exploring its key landmarks.

In the map above, you’ll find my self-guided walking route through the Innenstadt (Inner City or Old Town). The purple pins denote places of interest in the city centre. I’ve also included other famous Potsdam attractions (orange pins) located outside the city centre. This self-guided walking tour starts and ends at Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (central station), making it ideal for those visiting by train as a day trip from Berlin. Berlin Hbf (central station) is a 35-minute train ride away. It can comfortably be done in a day, including a visit to the Sanssouci Palace and Gardens.

Alter Markt (Old Market Square)

From the central station, I crossed the Lange Brücke (Lange bridge) and walked to the Alter Markt or Old Market Square, the historic heart of Potsdam. This grand square reflects the city’s baroque heritage and has undergone several transformations over the centuries. Dominating the square is the towering Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas’ Church), an impressive neoclassical building designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel and completed in 1850. Its massive dome and elegant proportions make it a key landmark in the city centre. You can climb the dome for panoramic views of the city. In the centre of the square stands the Obelisk, erected in 1753 to commemorate the city’s builders and architects.

Museum Barberini

Located just off the Old Market Square is the Museum Barberini, a world-class art museum housed in a reconstruction of the Barberini Palace. The original palace was destroyed during World War II, but it was rebuilt in 2016 based on historical plans. The museum now hosts rotating exhibitions featuring everything from impressionist masterpieces to contemporary art, providing a cultural highlight in your walk.

St. Peter & Paul Church

From the Alter Markt, I continued my Potsdam sightseeing walk to the St. Peter & Paul Church, completed in 1870. It stands at the end of the Brandenburgerstrasse (street), the other end of which stands the city’s Brandenburger Gate.

Dutch Quarter (Holländisches Viertel)

A short stroll away lies the Holländisches Viertel (Dutch Quarter), a unique architectural feature of Potsdam. This district features over 150 houses in the Dutch style and is one of Potsdam’s most charming and lively neighbourhoods.

Built between 1733 and 1742, the quarter was designed by the Dutch architect Jan Bouman. It was intended to house Dutch artisans invited by Frederick William I. Today, the cobblestone streets of the Dutch Quarter are lined with quaint cafés, boutiques, and galleries, making it a perfect spot for a coffee break, a meal or souvenir shopping. I stopped for lunch at Zum Vliegende Holländer, a lovely restaurant with a shady terrace.

After lunch, I explored the Dutch Quarter, with its numerous shops and cafés. I especially loved the Dutch-style houses along Mittelstrasse.

Nauener Gate (Nauener Tor)

I visited the Nauener Tor, one of the three preserved city gates of Potsdam. Built in 1755, this neo-Gothic gate is one of the oldest examples of Gothic Revival architecture in Europe.

Sanssouci Palace and Park

Though slightly outside the immediate historic centre, no visit to Potsdam is complete without a detour to Sanssouci Palace and Park. Just a 20+ minute walk from the Nauener Tor, this sprawling UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the famed Sanssouci Palace, the summer retreat of Frederick the Great. The palace, often referred to as the “Prussian Versailles”, is a masterpiece of rococo architecture, with its signature terraces leading up to the grand building.

The park itself is a lush haven of landscaped gardens, fountains and additional structures such as the Chinese House, New Palace and Orangery Palace. Whether you’re interested in architecture, history, or simply enjoying nature, Sanssouci offers something for everyone.

Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor)

Further along my walk, I passed the Brandenburger Tor, not to be confused with Berlin’s iconic Brandenburg Gate. Potsdam’s Brandenburger Tor was built in 1770 and is a fine example of Prussian neoclassical architecture. Its twin towers and classical columns evoke the Roman triumphal arches, symbolising the might of the Prussian state. From the gate, I continued my walk along the vibrant Brandenburgerstrasse shopping street.

City Palace (Stadtschloss)

My next stop was the Stadtschloss, which was once the royal residence of the Prussian kings. While the original palace was largely destroyed in World War II, the exterior was reconstructed in the early 21st century, and today it houses the Brandenburg Parliament. Its grand façade, with Corinthian columns and intricate sculptures, serves as a reminder of Potsdam’s royal past. I stopped to admire the Ringer colonnade and the golden angels of the Angel Staircase on the side of the palace.

From here, I made my way back to the central station and took the train back to Berlin.

Attractions in Potsdam outside the city centre

To enjoy these attractions, I recommend spending a night or two in the city. This will also give you more time to enjoy the numerous palaces and gardens. Search for accommodations in Potsdam (Booking.com).

In addition to the attractions located along this walking route, I also recommend visiting the following attractions on the edges of the city centre:

Cecilienhof Palace (Schloss Cecilienhof)

Cecilienhof Palace was built between 1914 and 1917 in an English Tudor style in the expansive Neuergarten (New Garden). The palace is well known as the venue of the Potsdam Conference in 1945. During this conference, the United States, United Kingdom and the Soviet Union came to an agreement which shaped the future of post-war Europe and Asia.

I also recommend walking around the Neuergarten. Here you’ll discover more historic and architectural highlights such as the 18th century, neo-Classical Marmorpalais (Marble Palace) and the Orangerie.

Glienicke Brücke (Glienicke Bridge)

Glienicke Bridge became famous during the Cold War as the “Bridge of Spies,” where East and West exchanged captured agents. Its history adds a modern layer to Potsdam’s rich past, bridging the city’s royal legacy with its role in 20th-century geopolitics.

Schloss Charlottenhof (Charlottenhof Palace)

The former summer residence of Crown Prince Frederick William, Charlottenhof Palace is an 18th century neo-Classical palace at the edge of the Sanssouci Park.

A walk around the historic centre of Potsdam is a journey through centuries of European history. From baroque splendor to Cold War intrigue, the city offers a wealth of landmarks that bring its past to life. Whether you’re wandering the quaint streets of the Dutch Quarter or marvelling at the grandeur of Sanssouci Palace, I hope my self-guided walking tour of Potsdam helps you to explore and enjoy the city’s timeless beauty.

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I’ve visited this amazing basilica three times so far, in a period spanning almost 30 years. My first visit to the Sagrada Família was in 1995 when much of the basilica was still pretty much a construction site. The Nativity and Passion façades were an imposing sight but the interior had a long way to go. At that time, there wasn’t even a roof!

During my latest visit (2024), I was struck by awe and a wave of emotions as I stepped inside the basilica. What greeted me was something I never could have imagined and it left me speechless and wonderstruck. No words could describe what I was looking at.

The history of Sagrada Família

The origins of the Sagrada Família in Barcelona date back to the late 19th century. In 1882, construction began on a modest church designed by architect Francisco de Paula del Villar. However, Villar resigned the following year, and the project was handed over to Antoni Gaudí.

Under Gaudí’s direction, the design of the Sagrada Família underwent a dramatic transformation. He combined Gothic and Art Nouveau styles with his unique vision, creating a structure that was both traditional and avant-garde. Gaudí devoted the last 15 years of his life exclusively to the basilica, and when he died in 1926 after being struck by a tram, less than a quarter of the project was complete.

The construction of the Sagrada Família continued after Gaudí’s death, but progress was slow due to the complexity of his designs, lack of funding, and the Spanish Civil War. During the war, parts of Gaudí’s original plans and models were destroyed, but his apprentices and later architects have continued to work towards his vision, interpreting his remaining notes and drawings.

Today, construction is still ongoing, funded primarily through donations and entrance fees from visitors. The basilica was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010, a significant milestone. The plan is to complete the Sagrada Família by 2026, to coincide with the centenary of Gaudí’s death. However, due to various challenges, such as COVID 19, the completion date will likely be several years later.

Highlights of the Sagrada Familia

I was well aware of how popular basilica is as a tourist attraction so I purchased a skip-the-line ticket with a specific time slot. The guide was waiting just outside the gift shop when I arrived. When the group was complete, we went through the security check and proceeded to the Nativity façade. The guide pointed out the fascinating details of the façade before leading us into the basilica.

The Sagrada Família is renowned for its intricate design, which reflects Gaudí’s genius and his deep connection to nature. As I walked around the central nave, I noticed the resemblance to a forest, with its towering trees and lush canopy.

The basilica is filled with symbolic elements and unique architectural features, making it a masterpiece of art and engineering. During the tour, I learned about the innovative design and construction methods, such as the use of hyperboloids to support the structure and distribute the weight. Here are the main architectural highlights of Sagrada Família to look out for during a visit:

1. The Façades

The basilica has three grand façades, each depicting a different aspect of Christ’s life: the Nativity, the Passion, and the Glory.

Nativity Façade

This east-facing facade, completed under Gaudí’s supervision, is dedicated to the birth of Jesus and represents the joy of life. It’s richly decorated with sculptures of animals, plants, and biblical scenes, reflecting Gaudí’s love for nature. The intricate details of this facade, including the statues of Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus, make it one of the most striking aspects of the basilica.

Passion Façade

In stark contrast to the Nativity Facade, the Passion Facade is austere and somber, symbolising the suffering and death of Christ. The angular, geometric sculptures, designed by artist Josep Maria Subirachs, depict the events leading up to the crucifixion.

Glory Façade

Still under construction, this will be the most monumental of the three facades. It will depict the ascension of Christ and the path to God, representing the final stage of human spiritual elevation. When completed, it will serve as the main entrance to the basilica.

2. The Towers

The Sagrada Família is designed to have 18 towers, each symbolising a different religious figure. These include 12 towers representing the apostles, four for the evangelists, one for the Virgin Mary, and the tallest, standing at 172.5 meters, for Jesus Christ. Each tower is unique in design, featuring intricate stonework and adorned with colourful mosaics. The towers offer panoramic views of Barcelona and the surrounding area.

3. The Interior

Stepping inside the Sagrada Família is like entering a forest of stone illuminated by colourful light. Gaudí designed the interior columns to resemble tree trunks, branching out at the top to support the ceiling. This creates a natural, organic feel, as if the entire structure is alive.

The play of light within the basilica is absolutely spectacular. The stained glass windows, completed by contemporary artists following Gaudí’s plans, fill the interior with a kaleidoscope of colours, changing with the time of day.

The interior also features a large, suspended crucifix in the apse, which adds to the spiritual atmosphere.

4. The Crypt and Museum

The crypt, where Gaudí himself is buried, is located beneath the apse and was one of the first parts of the basilica to be completed. Above the crypt is a museum dedicated to Gaudí’s life and work. It provides insight into his design process, including his use of models and innovative techniques. The museum also displays some of Gaudí’s original drawings and models, offering a deeper understanding of his vision for the Sagrada Família.

What to do when visiting the Sagrada Familia

There are several things to do in the Sagrada Familia to enhance the experience of your visit:

Climb the towers

For those who don’t mind heights, climbing the towers is a must. The view from the top is spectacular, offering a panoramic perspective of Barcelona. Each tower is different, and the experience of ascending them adds to the appreciation of Gaudí’s architectural prowess.

Study the detailed sculptures

Spend time observing the facades and the detailed sculptures. Each scene is packed with symbolic elements that tell a deeper story about the Christian faith. The Nativity and Passion façades, in particular, are filled with details that are easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.

Marvel at the light

Inside the basilica, pay attention to how the light changes throughout the day. The stained glass windows are particularly stunning in the morning or late afternoon when the sun casts different hues across the stone columns and floors.

Visit the workshop

Don’t miss the chance to visit the reconstructed workshop of Gaudí, where you can see some of his original tools and methods. This area of the museum offers a hands-on understanding of how Gaudí’s designs were translated into the basilica’s structure.

Enjoy a moment of silence and wonder

In the front of the central nave are numerous rows of pews. This area is for those who want to sit in silence or engage in prayer. I took a seat near the apse and simply took in the ethereal beauty of the basilica. During these few moments, I quietly enjoyed the wondrous sight of the towering columns, kaleidoscope of light and the countless details.

Best times to visit Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Família is one of the most popular attractions in Barcelona, and it can get very crowded. To have a more peaceful experience, I suggest a visit early in the morning, around 9:00 AM when it opens, or later in the afternoon, around 5:00 PM. The light inside the basilica on both sides of the central nave is absolutely magical during these times.

Avoid visiting during major holidays and weekends if possible, as these are the busiest times. Purchasing skip-the-line tickets in advance is highly recommended to avoid long queues, and guided tours can offer additional insights into the basilica’s history and architecture. Keep in mind that the basilica is still under construction so some sections may be closed.

The Sagrada Familia is more than just a church; it is a living work of art that continues to evolve. Its history, architectural innovation and awe-inspiring appearance make it one of the top things to do in Barcelona. Don’t be put off by the crowds. Plan ahead, purchase skip-the-line tickets and enjoy this magnificent basilica! I can’t wait to visit Sagrada Familia again when it’s fully completed.

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Located in the province of South Holland, Schiedam (map) is easy to visit from Rotterdam. From Rotterdam Central Station, Schiedam is a 5-minute train ride away. Rotterdam’s urban public transport network also includes numerous points in Schiedam.

A brief history of Schiedam

Schiedam’s origins can be traced back to around 1230 when a dam was built on the River Schie to protect the low-lying land from the North Sea. A trading settlement was established around the dam and grew quickly because of its strategic location. In 1275, Lady Aleida, the sister of William II of Holland, gave the flourishing trading settlement ‘city rights’. This marked the beginning of its development as an important centre of trade and commerce.

Schiedam’s historic distilling industry and its giant windmills

In 1575, a distillery for commercial production started operations in Schiedam – arguably the world’s first commercial distillery. The industry grew rapidly and in the 18th and 19th centuries, Schiedam became synonymous with jenever (traditional Dutch gin). The city’s distilleries flourished, with over 400 operational at the industry’s peak. Traditional windmills supported this industry by grinding grain. Due to their location in the town, the windmills were built higher than the rooftops to capture the wind. At one point, there were over 30 of these windmills in the town.

From Schiedam, gin was exported around the world to far flung posts in the Americas and the Far East. This era cemented Schiedam’s reputation as the “City of Jenever,” contributing significantly to its economic prosperity. These days, numerous gin distilleries still exist, some of which are world-renowned. Perhaps the most famous brand is Ketel One, which is produced at the Nolet Distillery, a family distillery founded in 1691.

Ten things to do in Schiedam

1. Explore the Old Town

The best thing to do in Schiedam is to explore the old town on foot. A stroll through Schiedam’s historic centre (the areas bordered by the Nieuwe Haven and Noordvest canals, and the Schie) reveals a tapestry of well-preserved buildings, quaint canals and drawbridges, and atmospheric streets. I recommend walking the length of the Lange Haven, a scenic canal lined with historic warehouses. Many of these warehouses now serve as art galleries, shops and cafés.

2. Go on a canal cruise

From April till October, it’s possible to join a ‘whisperboat’ canal cruise and see the old town from the water. Admire the town’s picturesque canals while you listen to fascinating stories of the town’s colourful past. The canal cruise departs from Museummolen De Walvisch (windmill museum). You can purchase tickets here.

3. Windmills of Schiedam

The city boasts the tallest traditional windmills in the world, standing over 33 meters high. These giants –  De Noord, De Vrijheid, De Nieuwe Palmboom, De Walvisch, De Kameel, De Drie Koornbloemen and (the new) De Nolet – are a testament to Schiedam’s industrial heritage. Visitors can explore the interiors of some of these windmills, like De Nieuwe Palmboom and De Walvisch which house museums detailing the history of jenever production and the role of windmills in the industry. De Noord houses a restaurant where visitors can enjoy a meal inside the windmill.

The Museummolen De Walvisch (Walvisch windmill museum) showcases the history and mechanics of windmills. De Walvisch provides an interactive experience where visitors can see the mill in operation and understand its significance in grain processing and jenever production.

The panoramic views from the ‘balcony’ of the mill are a highlight, offering stunning vistas of the city and as far as the skyline of Rotterdam. See if you can spot all of Schiedam’s historic windmills. Note that getting to the top requires climbing a series of steep and narrow staircases.

4. National Jenever Museum

The Nationaal Jenevermuseum Schiedam offers an immersive experience into the world of Dutch gin. Housed in a former distillery, the museum provides a comprehensive history of jenever production, from the distillation process to its cultural impact. The museum often includes tastings, allowing visitors to sample different varieties of this traditional spirit.

5. Admire the historic churches

Schiedam’s religious heritage is exemplified by its historic churches, such as the Grote or Sint Janskerk. This Gothic church, with its towering spire and intricate stained glass windows, dates back to the 14th century and offers insights into the city’s architectural evolution.

The church’s interior is equally impressive, featuring an organ that dates back to the 18th century. Organ concerts are regularly held in this beautiful church.

6. Stedelijk Museum Schiedam

Housed in a former hospital, the Stedelijk Museum showcases contemporary art. Its collection includes works by Dutch artists from the 20th century to the present, with a focus on local talent. The museum’s rotating exhibitions ensure there is always something new to see, making it a cultural hotspot in Schiedam. Purchase your tickets here.

7. National Cooperative Museum

The Cooperative Museum is a lovely candy shop on the corner of Lange Haven and Appelmarkt that offers a unique glimpse of Schiedam in the 1920’s. Entry is free and you can purchase all sorts of candy. Ask the friendly staff if you can take a peek inside the adjacent living quarters.

8. Schiedam Library

Step inside the Bibliotheek Schiedam (Library) in the Korenbeurs building to admire its library-in-a-forest ambiance. Its terrace is also a lovely place for a drink or a meal with a view of the Lange Haven canal.

9. Have a wonderful dinner on a barge

There are numerous excellent restaurants in Schiedam. I had a lovely dinner at 1714 Drinks and Bites. Located in a historic building (1714), the restaurant also has a barge on the Lange Haven canal where diners can enjoy a terrific meal and drinks on the water.

10. Stay in a historic mansion

I stayed at the gorgeous Stadsvilla Mout at the Lange Haven canal and can definitely recommend it. This boutique hotel features a striking contemporary design inside a beautiful mansion.

Schiedam is arguably one of the most beautiful towns in The Netherlands to visit. Due to its proximity to Rotterdam, it makes for an easy day trip if you’re visiting the port city. However, I do recommend spending a night there to truly enjoy the wonderful atmosphere and its terrific restaurants. Search for accommodations in Schiedam (Booking.com).

Read more about a fascinating road trip in the Great Rivers delta region.

Located in the province of Groningen (map) in northern Netherlands, a few kilometers from the German border, Fort Bourtange stands as a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of 16th century Dutch military engineering. This star-shaped fortress, with its symmetrical bastions and moats, is nowadays a fascinating place to visit. Inside the Fort Bourtange, visitors will find a village with charming cobblestone streets, museums and cafés, making a visit more than worthwhile. It’s even possible to spend a night in the village.

A brief history of Fort Bourtange

Fort Bourtange was constructed in 1593 during the Eighty Years’ War, a conflict between the Dutch and the Spanish that spanned from 1568 to 1648. The fort was commissioned by William the Silent, the leader of the Dutch Revolt, to control the only road between Germany and the city of Groningen, which was then occupied by Spanish forces. The strategic importance of Bourtange lay in its location; controlling this road meant cutting off Spanish supply lines and facilitating Dutch control over the region.

Designed by the renowned military engineer Menno van Coehoorn, Fort Bourtange’s star shape was a revolutionary design in military fortifications. This configuration allowed defenders to cover all approaches to the fort, making it nearly impregnable to attackers of the time. The surrounding swamps also played a key role in the fortress’s defense.

Fort Bourtange saw its first significant action in 1594, shortly after its completion. In a decisive battle, Dutch forces used the fort to successfully repel Spanish troops. This led to the recapture of Groningen and a critical shift in control during the Eighty Years’ War. The fort’s robust design and strategic location continued to serve the Dutch well into the 17th century, playing a pivotal role in various military engagements.

During the Franco-Dutch War (1672-1678), the fort once again proved its worth. In 1672, Bourtange successfully withstood a siege by the forces of the Prince-Bishop of Münster, one of the allies of King Louis XIV of France. This victory underscored the fort’s defensive capabilities and its importance in protecting the northern provinces of the Netherlands.

Decline and restoration

By the late 18th century, advancements in military technology and changes in warfare led to the decline of traditional star forts like Bourtange. The fort was eventually decommissioned in 1851. The fortress was transformed into a village and the surrounding marshes were converted into agricultural land.

However, the historical significance of Fort Bourtange was not forgotten. In the 1960s, efforts began to restore the fort. The restoration project, completed in 1992, meticulously reconstructed the fort’s defenses, buildings and interior, based on historical records and archaeological findings. Today, Fort Bourtange stands as a living museum, offering a fascinating window into the past.

Things to see in Fort Bourtange

Visitors to Fort Bourtange can immerse themselves in its rich history and explore the various aspects of 17th-century military life. The fort’s meticulously reconstructed bastions, barracks, cannons and toilets (!) provide a vivid picture of its defensive capabilities. The museums within the fort offer extensive exhibits detailing its history, including artifacts, documents, and interactive displays.

There are several small hotels and B&B’s in the village, making it possible for visitors to spend a night or two in these charming surrounds.

A walk around the village

Walking through the cobblestone streets of the fort, visitors can explore the picturesque village that has grown within its walls. The traditional buildings, some of which house shops, art galleries and cafes, add to the charm and authenticity of the experience.

The top sights in the village include the gorgeous market square, windmill, gunpowder storage house (old and new), synagogue and the captain’s house.

You can also visit the Terra Mora museum which highlights the history of the fortress and the surrounding marshlands. Another museum, De Baracquen, houses artifacts found during restoration works.

Walk atop the fortress walls

My favourite thing to do in Fort Bourtange was stroll along the fortress walls. From here, I had marvellous views of the village on one side, and the moats and fields outside the walls. Visitors can also have a peek inside the toilets.

Special events, such as historical reenactments, bring the fort’s history to life – every June, the Battle of Bourtange is recreated, the largest reenactment in the Netherlands – allowing visitors to witness battles, drills, and daily life as it might have been centuries ago.

A symbol of resilience

To the Dutch, Fort Bourtange is more than just a historical site. It represents the determination of the Dutch people to defend their land and secure their independence. The fort is a reminder of the strategic and architectural prowess that played a crucial role in shaping the history of the Netherlands.

A visit to Fort Bourtange is a journey through some of the pivotal moments of Dutch history. Personally, I found it fascinating to learn about the fort’s design; an intersection between military strategy and architectural innovation. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a student of (military) architecture, or simply a traveller seeking a unique cultural experience, Fort Bourtange offers a captivating and enriching visit.

How to get to Fort Bourtange

Fort Bourtange is about a 3-hour drive from Amsterdam, and a 1-hour drive from Groningen (city). Getting there by public transport from either Amsterdam or Groningen involves a lengthy journey and various changes. Parking is free. Visitors are required to purchase an entrance ticket. It’s a short walk (400m) to the village from the parking area.

Read about other historic places in The Netherlands

• Things to see in Naarden Vesting
• A visit to Slot Loevestein
• Dutch grandeur at Paleis Het Loo
• Historic towns north of Amsterdam
• Things to see in Delft

Hill towns to visit in Rimini province

The hills of the province of Rimini are a beautiful patchwork of vineyards, orchards and forests, punctuated by villages, castles and fortresses. Further inland, the gentle slopes soon make way for a forested range of mountains. As you drive around this lovely region, you’ll pass a variety of landscapes and quaint villages. You won’t miss the little country of San Marino, perched atop a mountain ridge.

Here’s a guide to some of the most interesting hill towns of Rimini province, each with its unique charm and attractions. The province of Rimini is located a bit more than an hour’s drive from Bologna Airport, where you can hire a car.

Santarcangelo di Romagna

The closest hill town to the city of Rimini (10km), Santarcangelo di Romagna is a medieval town built on the slopes of Mount Giove. The town’s medieval fortifications can still be seen today, along with secret tunnels and caves inside the mountain. These tufa caves have, for centuries, provided refuge for the town’s citizens during upheavals and storage space for food (particularly cheese) and wine.

From the central Ganganelli Square, walk up the hill to the upper village with its iconic bell tower. Along the way, visit the Musas (the town’s archaeological museum housed in a 17th century palazzo), Grotta di San Michele (tour of the caves), Stamperia Artigiana Marchi (a historic shop that’s famous for its rust-coloured prints) and the cute Button Museum.

Two restaurants I can recommend for a fantastic meal are: Lazaroun and La Sangiovesa. Ask if you can visit the underground tunnels where they store their unique cheeses and wines.

Santarcangelo di Romagna is a great place to spend a night or two. There’s a good variety of sights, cafés, restaurants and accommodations. I recommend staying at the lovely B&B Villa Ebe.

Verucchio

Verucchio, often called the “cradle of the Malatesta family,” is located atop two hills overlooking the lush Marecchia Valley. The 15th century Rocca Malatestiana (Malatesta Fortress) here is one of the best-preserved in the region and offers insights into the medieval life of the Malatesta family.

The town is also rich in Etruscan history as it was the centre of the Villanovan civilisation between 7-9th century BC. The Archaeological Museum is a must-visit, housing Etruscan artifacts and offering a deep dive into the ancient history of the area.

Verucchio also has several beautiful churches like the Collegiate Church of San Martino.

If you’re thinking of spending a night here, do check out the fabulous Oste del Castello Wellness & Bike Hotel in the heart of Verucchio.

At the foot of the hill, in the village of Villa Verucchio, check out Osteria DiVilla Rimini. This restaurant serves amazing food and wines! And don’t leave without a bagful of their home-made cantucci biscuits.

San Leo

San Leo, in the hills of Montefeltro, is a true gem in the province of Rimini. Made famous by Dante Alighieri in the Divine Comedy, San Leo boasts an impressive fortress atop a towering rock.

The centerpiece of the town is the Fortress of San Leo, which has stood since Roman times and was later enhanced by the renowned architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini. The fortress has served as a prison and is famed for holding the enigmatic Count Cagliostro. Visitors can explore the ancient fortress, the Romanesque Cathedral of San Leo, and the 9th century Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta (one of the oldest churches in the region).

Numerous hiking trails traverse the forested hills and offer gorgeous views of the Marecchia Valley. One such trail leads to the 13th century Franciscan Monastery of Sant’Igne.

San Leo is a wonderful place to spend a few days in. Search for accommodations in San Leo.

Pennabilli

Pennabilli is an ancient town known for its artistic and spiritual significance. The town, a union of two castles, Penna and Billi, can trace its roots back to Etruscan times. It was the home of the famous poet and screenwriter Tonino Guerra, whose influence is evident in the town’s numerous art installations. Visit the Santuario dei Pensieri (Shrine of Thoughts) to view some of Guerra’s work and enjoy this tranquil garden.

Key attractions include the Cathedral, Mateureka Calculus Museum (yes, that’s right, a calculus museum!), which explores the history of mathematics and computing, and Little Tibet (a spot that the Dalai Lama has visited twice), perched on a hill offering serene views. Nearby, you’ll also find an info board showing the view depicted in one of the paintings by Leonardo da Vinci.

The town also hosts the annual Artisti in Piazza (Artists in the Square). This international street art festival transforms the town into an open-air gallery.

Mondaino

Mondaino is a quaint hill town known for its historical reenactments and festivals. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Conca Valley. The Rocca Malatestiana, a Malatesta fortress, dominates the town, offering stunning views.

Start your walk at the Piazza Maggiore, the town’s 19th century market square. The square is a semi-circular shape lined by a neo-Classical arcade. Mondaino is also home to the Museum of Paleontology, which provides a fascinating look into the ancient marine life that once inhabited the area.

In August each year, Mondaino hosts Palio del Daino, a medieval festival that recreates historical events with costumes, games, and performances.

Saludecio

Saludecio is celebrated for its vibrant murals that adorn many of its buildings. Located not far away from Mondaino, in the Conca Valley, Saludecio is built on a ridge, which gives the town its elongated form. The first thing you’ll notice, as you enter the town through the 14th century Porta Marina, are the town’s rustic streets and colourful murals.

The town’s Parish Church of San Biagio is known for its baroque interior and art. The Scent of the 1800’s Festival, held every August, transforms Saludecio into a living museum of the 19th century, with music, food, and crafts.

Near Saludecio, I recommend dining at Ristorante al Chiar di Luna, a rather outlandish restaurant with an incredible wine cellar and stunning food!

Sant’Agata Feltria

Sant’Agata Feltria, one of the most picturesque hill towns in the Rimini province, is famed for its fairy-tale atmosphere and cultural richness.

The town’s iconic Rocca Fregoso fortress is a stunning example of medieval architecture. Sitting high on a hill, the fortress offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. The town’s charming streets and historic buildings make it perfect for those seeking a blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.

Teatro Angelo Mariani is a fascinating attraction in the town. This is Italy’s oldest wooden theater and provides a unique glimpse into the artistic heritage of the area.

Sant’Agata Feltria is famous for its annual Truffle Fair. Every October, it draws food enthusiasts from across the globe to savour its gourmet offerings.

Search for accommodations in Sant’Agata Feltria.

The hill towns of Rimini province offer more than just scenic beauty; they are rich in history, culture and artistic heritage. From medieval fortresses and ancient churches to vibrant festivals and interesting museums, each town provides a unique window into Emilia-Romagna’s past and present. If you’re touring the region, don’t miss visiting some of these hill towns.

Car hire

Read more about Emilia-Romagna

• The best places to visit in Emilia-Romagna on a road trip
• Places to visit on the Riviera Romagnola
• Things to see in Ravenna
• Things to do in Bologna
• Things to do in Brisighella

See my photo essay on reasons I love Italy

A (very) brief history

Quedlinburg’s history dates back over a thousand years, with its roots intertwined with the founding of Germany. It was first mentioned in 919 AD, when the Duke of Saxony Henry I was crowned in this area and established the Palatinate of Quedlinburg. In 936 AD, it became the seat of a convent (later Quedlinburg Abbey) founded by King Henry I’s wife, Matilda. Emperor Otto I, and subsequent Emperors, granted the town special rights and privileges, making it an important political, religious and trading centre. In 1426, the town joined the Hanseatic League of northern European merchant cities.

Quedlinburg architecture

Quedlinburg’s most striking feature is its architecture. The town boasts over 1,300 half-timbered houses, representing various styles from the 14th to the 20th century. According to UNESCO: The number and high quality of the timber-framed buildings make Quedlinburg an exceptional example of a medieval European town. The Collegiate Church of St Servatius is one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture.

The restoration of Quedlinburg’s historic buildings has been a meticulous and ongoing process. Significant efforts were made to preserve and restore the town’s architectural heritage following the German reunification in 1990. Many buildings, once neglected, have been carefully renovated to reflect their original glory. This dedication to preservation ensures that Quedlinburg remains a living museum, where visitors can step back in time and experience the town’s historical significance firsthand.

Things to see in Quedlinburg on a walk around the old town

Beautifully preserved medieval towns is one of my favourite reasons to visit Germany and Quedlinburg is simply exceptional. Exploring Quedlinburg was like walking through a fairy tale! I had to pinch myself several times as I couldn’t believe what I was seeing – a simply magical scene awaited around every corner! I started my walk in the morning so there weren’t many other tourists around. This tranquility only added to the enchanting experience. I had to constantly remind myself to put my camera down and just enjoy the ambiance!

The old town sits below a sandstone cliff that’s topped by the impressive castle and abbey. Quaint half-timbered houses of different colours and styles line the town’s winding, cobbled streets, making a simple stroll an amazing experience. Here are the top things to see in Quedlinburg:

I recommend joining a guided tour to fully appreciate the town’s history and architecture. Wander through the narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses, visit the castle and abbey, and take in the serene beauty of the castle gardens. This walking route can easily be done in a day.

1. Quedlinburg Castle and Abbey

The Castle and Abbey complex, perched on a hill overlooking the town, is one of the top things to see in Quedlinburg. The Romanesque Collegiate Church of St. Servatius, part of the abbey complex, is renowned for its stunning architecture and the treasure of Quedlinburg, a collection of religious artifacts. The castle and the adjacent gardens offer panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside.

2. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum)

Within the castle complex, is the Castle Museum that showcases Quedlinburg’s long history. You’ll learn how the castle and abbey complex was developed during the reign of Henry I in the 10th century. The lavish interiors are also worth seeing.

3. Schlossberg

The Schlossberg (Castle Hill) area surrounding the castle complex is full of interesting and beautiful timber-framed buildings.

4. Finkenherd

Finkenherd is definitely one of Germany’s most iconic rows of half-timbered houses. There are several beautiful, coloured houses with pointed roofs. It’s said that this is the spot where the Duke of Saxony Henry I first learned that he would be crowned King.

5. Market Square

The town’s market square is another architectural gem, featuring the Rathaus (town hall), a 13-14th century Gothic structure adorned with ivy and detailed carvings.

On one side of the Market Square, you’ll find the monument to the Münzenberg musicians. Erected on the market square in 1976, it shows four musicians (formerly Bohemian residents of Münzberg).

6. Market Church

Nearby, the 10th century Church of St. Benedict (or Market Church), with its distinctive twin towers, adds to the historical ambiance with its Romanesque stonework. You can even climb one of its towers for lovely views of the old town.

7. Fachwerkmuseum Ständerbau Quedlinburg (Half-timbered Museum)

Located in a 14th century half-timbered house, one of the oldest in Germany, this small museum shows the development of half-timbered architecture across 600 years.

8. Mühlgraben

The ‘Mill Canal’ (or literally translated, ‘mill ditch’) traverses the centre of Quedlinburg and passes numerous historic monuments. In the Middle Ages, ten water mills lined the canal, resulting in its name Mühlgraben or ‘Mill Canal’.

9. Höllenhof and Schuhhof

Höllenhof and the nearby Schuhhof are perfect examples of the stunning medieval architecture in Quedlinburg. These streets and partially hidden alleys are full of gorgeous houses and folklore.

10. St. Blasii Church

St. Blasii is one of the oldest churches in Quedlinburg. Currently an event and cultural centre, the church has stonework from the 10th century. The church was redesigned in the Baroque style in the 18th century.

11. Münzenberg

To the west of the old town lies Münzenberg, a settlement within the walls of a former benedictine monastery. In this quaint walled settlement, you’ll find gorgeous half-timbered houses and the Münzenberg Museum. The abbey kitchen houses the oldest chimney in Germany!

Quedlinburg is a treasure trove of history, culture, and architectural beauty. Its well-preserved buildings, rich cultural heritage, and the ongoing dedication to restoration make it a must-visit destination for anyone interested in experiencing the charm of a medieval German town. Whether you’re exploring the ancient abbey, wandering through the picturesque streets, or enjoying a local festival, Quedlinburg offers an enchanting journey through time.

It’s small enough to cover in a day. However, I would recommend spending at least a night in Quedlinburg, if only to experience the old town in the evening when the day-trippers have gone. Search for hotels in Quedlinberg (Booking.com). If you spend the night, don’t miss an evening walking tour with a night watchman.

How to get to Quedlinburg

Quedlinburg is located in central Germany at the northern edges of the Harz mountains. The closest airports are Leipzig (1-hour drive) and Hannover (1.5 hours by car). At either of these airports, you can hire a car and continue to Quedlinburg or take a train (2+ hours from Leipzig and 3+ hours from Hannover). It’s also possible to get to Quedlinburg from Berlin by train (3+ hours).

Read more about other medieval towns in Germany

• Things to see in Lübeck
• Things to see in Stralsund
• Things to see in Tübingen
• Things to do in Miltenberg
• An evening stroll in Erfurt

Things to see in Rimini on a walk around the old town

I’ve included a sightseeing walking route of Rimini’s old town which can easily be done in a few hours. If you’re visiting Rimini as part of a day trip by car, I recommend parking at the large parking area next to the Tiberius Bridge (Parcheggio Tiberio). The walking route below starts at the Tiberius Bridge, however, as it’s a circular route, you can start from any point along the way.

Borgo San Giuliano

Just across the road from the parking area lies the charming enclave of Borgo San Giuliano. This quaint neighbourhood is renowned for its colourful houses and street art. The legacy of Federico Fellini, the legendary filmmaker who was born in Rimini, is honoured by many murals which depict his movies and works of art.

I recommend slowly exploring the maze of lanes of Borgo San Giuliano whilst looking out for the colourful murals. Don’t miss stepping inside the 16th century Church of San Giuliano Martire, with its stunning interior.

Ponte di Tiberio (Tiberius bridge)

This bridge was constructed by the Romans in the 1st century AD. Ponte di Tiberio traverses the Marecchia River at the southern end of the ancient Via Emilia, a trunk road that crosses the length of the region of Emilia-Romagna. It’s simply an amazing feeling to cross a bridge that’s more than 2,000 years old!

Fellini Museum

From the Tiberius Bridge, walk along Corso d’Augusto and turn right at Cinema Fulgor, a gorgeous cinema in Art Nouveau style. Here, you’ll find one of the three branches of the Fellini Museum.

Federico Fellini is widely known as one of the greatest filmmakers of all time. Born in Rimini, he produced various iconic films such as La Dolce Vita. Throughout his career, he won many awards including four Oscars and the Palme d’Or. Visit the Fellini Museum’s website for more info.

Castel Sismondo

The medieval heritage of Rimini is most visible at Castel Sismondo, a short walk from Palazzo del Fulgor. Constructed in the 15th century by the ambitious lord Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, this imposing fortress offers panoramic views of the city and hosts cultural events and exhibitions throughout the year. There’s also a branch of the Fellini Museum in the castle.

Piazza Cavour

Our next stop is my favourite piazza, a few minutes’ walk from the Castle. In the heart of Rimini’s old town lies Piazza Cavour. This impressive square is surrounded by elegant cafés and historic buildings, such as the old Fish Market and Galli Theatre. It’s a great spot to sip a cappuccino and soak up the local culture.

Piazza Tre Martiri

This large square is the focal point in the old town. There are several historic monuments to stop at, as well as various cafés and restaurants.

Piazza Tre Martiri is home to several important monuments, including the statue of Julius Caesar, the stone atop which Julius Caesar gave a famous speech and the little Chapel of St. Anthony.

Arch of Augustus

From Piazza Tre Martiri, continue down Corso d’Augusto to the iconic Arch of Augustus. Erected in 27 BC, this ancient Roman triumphal arch stands as a testament to the city’s illustrious past and marks the entrance to Rimini’s historic old town.

Tempio Malatestiano (Malatesta Temple)

A short walk from the Arch of Augustus stands the awe-inspiring Tempio Malatestiano, a majestic blend of Renaissance and Gothic architecture.

Admire the intricate frescoes and ornate sculptures that adorn the interior, including the revered Crucifix by Giotto. Originally built as a Franciscan church in the 13th century, it was transformed into a mausoleum in the 15th century, though it was never finished, by the powerful Malatesta family.

Museo della Città (City Museum)

Follow Via Tempio Malatestiano towards our next stop: Museo della Citta. This museum showcases artifacts and archaeological finds that trace the city’s evolution from ancient times to the present day.

Adjacent to the museum, you’ll find the impressive Domus del Chirurgo (Roman villa of the Surgeon). This 2nd century AD villa was discovered in 1989 and features mosaics, frescoes and a complete set of surgical instruments from that period!

From here, I suggest walking aimlessly around the lanes and streets in this area. It’s a lovely part of the old town to soak up the atmosphere.

Rimini beach

Conclude your exploration with a leisurely stroll along Rimini’s sandy beach, located about a 20-30 minute walk from the old town. It’s the perfect place to unwind and soak up the Mediterranean sun after a day of sightseeing. A bike/pedestrian path (lungomare) runs the length of the beach. Here you’ll find many beachfront hotels, as well as restaurants and beach clubs where you can sit back, put your feet in the sand and enjoy drinks and a wonderful meal.

If you opt for some beach time in Rimini, drop by the Habana beach restaurant (Bagno 44). Nothing better than a fettucine vongole at the beach with a crisp Pinot Grigio or Friulano, and a gentle sea breeze to go with it!

From ancient monuments to hidden gems, Rimini’s historic old town offers a captivating glimpse into Italy’s rich cultural tapestry. Whether you’re a history buff, an art enthusiast, or simply seeking to immerse yourself in the beauty of a bygone era, this beautiful city promises an unforgettable experience steeped in tradition and splendour.

Where to stay in Rimini

Most of the hotels in Rimini are located at or near the beach but there are also a few gems in the city centre. I especially loved B&B I Propilei di San Girolamo, a cosy B&B in the old town. Hotels at the beach I can recommend include Grand Hotel Rimini (a historic hotel), Hotel De Londres and Mercure Rimini Artis. Search for accommodations in Rimini (Booking.com).

Places to visit near Rimini

If you’re staying in Rimini, there are many places in the vicinity that are absolutely worth a visit. Some of my favourite places include Ravenna, Comacchio and Santarcangelo di Romagna. Read my guide to the Riviera Romagnola (the Adriatic coast), or things to do in Ravenna and things to do in Comacchio. I also recommend exploring the hill towns of the province of Rimini such as San Leo and Sant’Agata Feltria.

I can also recommend a day trip to San Marino, one of the smallest countries in the world, less than an hour from Rimini by bus/car.

How to get to Rimini

Rimini has a small international airport served by mainly holiday charter and low-cost airlines such as Ryanair. From Bologna, the main air and rail gateway to Emilia-Romagna, Rimini can be reached by train in ±55 minutes.

Read more about Emilia-Romagna on Velvet Escape

• Things to do in Bologna
• Things to do in Modena
• Ferrari tour in the Motor Valley
• The Art Cities of Emilia-Romagna
• Things to do in Brisighella

South of France road trip route

This route from Toulouse to Marseille covers parts of two regions, Occitanie and western Provence. I chose these two cities as start and end points as they both have international airports and excellent high-speed train connections to Paris and beyond. The route includes charming villages and castles in the French Pyrenees, the oldest towns in France, fascinating cities like Toulouse, Montpellier and Avignon, impressive walled towns such as Carcassonne and Aigues-Mortes, nature parks, wineries, historic attractions and beaches. I picked up my rental car in Toulouse and dropped it off at the airport in Marseille.

This road trip crosses large parts of the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, one of France’s largest wine-producing areas by vineyard surface area. Though not as famous as other wine regions in France, it’s one of my favourites as the wines are simply sublime yet (still) reasonably priced.

My South of France road trip guide is by no means comprehensive but rather all the places I visited and truly enjoyed.

How much time would I need for this South of France road trip?

I recommend at least ten days to give yourself time to enjoy these beautiful places in the south of France. Scroll down to the end of this guide to find my suggested 15-day self-drive itinerary.

When is the best time for a South of France road trip?

My favourite time of the year to visit the south of France is between May and early-July, when temperatures are more agreeable and there are fewer crowds. September is also a good month for a road trip. July-August are the hottest yet busiest months of the year, and the priciest.

This South of France road trip guide contains links to three services I often use myself and can recommend: Skyscanner (for flights), Booking.com (for hotel bookings), Rentalcars.com (for car hire) and GetYourGuide (for easy-to-book tours). If you make a booking via one of these services, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you). These commissions help me to maintain my blog, cover my travel expenses and share these experiences with you.

Occitanie

Toulouse

This road trip kicks off in Toulouse, the capital of the region of Occitanie and France’s fourth-largest city. Toulouse is often called the ‘pink city’ (La Ville Rose) due to the extensive use of pinkish bricks in the old town. Founded by the Romans on the banks of the Garonne River, Toulouse is these days a major centre for the European aerospace industry (Airbus has its HQ here) and boasts three UNESCO World Heritage sites: Canal du Midi (a 17th century canal that links Toulouse with Sète on the Mediterranean coast), Basilica of St. Sernin (the largest Romanesque building in Europe) and Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques (a 12th century hospital that’s an important site on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route). Toulouse is also famous for its cuisine, something you’ll soon discover at the city’s markets and restaurants.

There are many things to do in Toulouse, but if you only have 1-2 days to spare, here are the highlights which can be covered in a day:

• Admire the stunning Romanesque architecture of Basilica of St. Sernin
• Visit the Gothic-style Couvent des Jacobins
• Wander around the vibrant Place du Capitole, the heart of the city with the City Hall and Opera
• Browse around Marché Victor Hugo (Victor Hugo market)
• Stroll along the Garonne River (Pont Neuf to Pont St.-Pierre)
• Join a food tour
• Indulge in a Toulouse-style cassoulet (bean stew casserole with pork)
• Join a wine-tasting workshop at one of the best wine bars in the world

I suggest spending 1-3 days in Toulouse before picking up a rental car (if needed) for this road trip. Search for accommodations in Toulouse.

Canal du Midi: from Toulouse to Étang de Thau

The Canal du Midi is an architectural marvel that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. It starts in Toulouse and ends in the massive Étang de Thau lagoon on the Mediterranean coast. Designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, the canal was constructed between 1666 to 1681 by 12,000 men. Whilst it was an important trade route in the past, these days, it’s used mainly for leisure. Visitors can hire boats, hotel-barges, or rent bikes and make their way along the canal at their own pace.

French Pyrenees

From Toulouse, head south to Foix, a historic town at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. The Pyrenees are a mountain range that form a natural divide between France and Spain, with numerous peaks surpassing 3,000m (11,000 ft). Large sections of the range are protected nature parks, perfect for hiking and mountain climbing, and there are also countless castles, historic sites and towns to explore.

Foix

Foix is a small city in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. Its old town, dominated by a formidable 10th century castle, is a captivating maze of cobblestone streets and 17th century half-timbered houses.

Foix is an excellent base from which to explore the Val d’Ariège (Ariège Valley) and numerous places of interest such as Château de Montségur (the Cathar Montségur Castle), the historic village of Vals (with its 10th century church carved out of the rock), the picturesque town of Tarascon-sur-Ariège, and the expansive Parc Naturel Régional des Pyrénées Ariégeoises (a popular hiking area). You can easily spend a few days exploring Foix and its surroundings. Search for accommodations in Foix.

Limoux

From Foix, continue to Limoux, a small town on the banks of the Aude River. Wine historians believe that the world’s first sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux, was produced in this region in 1531 by the monks at the abbey in Saint-Hilaire, near Limoux. Limoux itself is a lovely place for a stroll and a meal. The heart of town is Place de la République, with its stone arcades and half-timbered houses. The beautiful houses that line the Aude River are also an attraction. At the edge of town, you’ll find Maison Guinot, a small winery that offers tours and tastings of its Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wines.

The town is surrounded by vineyards for as far as the eye can see. Another winery I can recommend for a visit is Domaine de Baronarques, where you can tour the estate, learn about its history and end the tour with a fabulous wine-tasting.

Carcassonne

The next stop on this south of France road trip is Carcassonne. This town is famous for its medieval citadel, Cité de Carcassonne, with its formidable watchtowers and double-walled fortifications. Built in Gallo-Roman times, major additions to the town walls were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. The citadel was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Carcassonne is a popular place for day-trippers. I suggest spending a night in the citadel to experience its enchantment when all the day-trippers have left. Search for accommodations in Carcassonne. If you’re staying in Carcassonne for just a day, purchase this ticket for access to the castle and walls.

As an alternative to Carcassonne, you could choose to stay at Domaine Calmel & Joseph. A lovely winery that offers accommodations and wine tours, Domaine Calmel & Joseph is about a 20-minute drive from Carcasonne. Or you can opt to just visit this winery for a wine-tasting tour.

Carcasonne to Narbonne

It takes roughly an hour to get from Carcasonne to Narbonne on the A61 highway. I suggest heading into the hills south of the A61 highway to explore the Corbières area, with its medieval villages, vineyards, castles and gorgeous scenery. Corbières is one of the iconic wine areas of the Languedoc so don’t miss the opportunity to take a few bottles of its rich, fruity reds home with you. Here are several places of interest to visit:

Lagrasse

Lying in the valley of the River Obieu, Lagrasse is a medieval gem! Things to do in Lagrasse include visiting the 8th century Abbey, crossing its medieval bridges and exploring the village’s rustic lanes.

Château de Villerouge-Termenès

This medieval castle is one of the most important Cathar castles in the region. Stroll around this charming village and visit the castle. The village is also a lovely spot for lunch.

Abbeye de Fontfroide

This Cistercian monastery, 15km southwest of Narbonne, was founded in the 11th century. I recommend touring the monastery to admire its beautiful architecture and cloisters.

Narbonne

Narbonne is a historic city which can trace its roots back to the 1st century BC. These days, it’s a bustling city dominated by the 14th century Gothic Cathedral. Other important sights in Narbonne include the impressive Archbishop’s Palace, Clos de la Lombarde (ancient Roman ruins) and Canal de la Robine (that links the city with Canal du Midi).

I also recommend a visit and a meal at Les Halles, the city’s covered market.

Just south of the city are several attractions including the salt pans of St. Martin de Gruissan, the quaint fishing village of Gruissan and numerous beaches. I recommend spending 2-3 nights in Narbonne or its surroundings. Search for accommodations in Narbonne.

Béziers

Our next stop is one of the oldest cities in France: Béziers. With a history dating back to the 6th century BC (!), Béziers is a beautiful city to visit. The old town is situated on a hill overlooking the River Orb. Towering over the old town is the St. Nazaire Cathedral, a 14th century Gothic structure that’s visible from miles away.

Other attractions include the Pont Vieux bridge and Les 9 Écluses de Fonseranes (a series of canal locks with nine steps).

Béziers to Montpellier

The area between Béziers and Montpellier (part of the Hérault department) is absolutely worth exploring for a few days. There are historic towns like Agde, Pezenas, and Sète; charming villages like Roquebrun and Marseillan; historic attractions like Valmagne Sainte-Marie’s Abbey; nature parks and countless Languedoc vineyards to visit. There are also numerous beach communities that are popular in the summer, including Europe’s biggest and most (in)famous nudist colony at Cap d’Agde.

There are many different types of accommodations to choose from in the area between Béziers, Pezenas and Sète. You can stay at a vineyard or by the beach, or choose from lovely hotels, B&B’s, vacation rentals and camping sites. Search for accommodations in this area.

Agde

Located a short drive from Béziers, Agde is one of the oldest towns in France. The main attraction is the town’s 12th century Cathedral. I also recommend a stroll along the embankment of the Hérault River and enjoying a seafood lunch at one of the floating restaurants – I recommend Mare Nostrum.

You can also head for the beaches and seaside restaurants at nearby Le Grau d’Agde.

Pezenas

Often listed as one of the most beautiful towns in Occitanie, Pezenas has a charming old town and is surrounded by mile after mile of vineyards. Once the seat of the Governors of Languedoc, Pezenas still maintains its grandeur, evident today by the numerous beautiful 17-18th century townhouses in the old town. Read more about things to do in Pezenas.

For a lovely lunch and wine-tasting experience in historic surroundings, head for Seigneurie de Peyrat, a rustic winery just outside Pezenas.

Valmagne Abbey

Valmagne Abbey is a curious attraction about a 15-minute drive from Pezenas. Founded in 1138 as a Benedictine abbey, the abbey soon came under the Cistercian Order. The abbey church was turned into a wine cave by a private owner in the 18th century. Large wine barrels were installed in the church to mature wines, a function that still exists till this day.

It’s a lovely place for a quick stop, if only to see the impressive nave with its equally impressive wine barrels!

Roquebrun

Roquebrun is known as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Situated at the southern end of the National Park of the High Languedoc on the banks of the River Orb, Roquebrun is a popular place for outdoor activities such as hiking and kayaking. Roquebrun is located about a 45-minute drive from Béziers or Pezenas.

Marseillan

This lovely village sits on the shores of the Étang de Thau, the largest of a series of lagoons along this stretch of the French Mediterranean coast and the southern entry point of the Canal du Midi. It’s a picturesque village with many historic houses and a small port that’s a national treasure.

If you love mussels and oysters, Marseillan is the perfect place to indulge yourself as they’re cultivated in the lagoon around the corner! I recommend Restaurant Le Chateau du Port for a terrific meal and lovely views of the port.

If you’re a fan of vermouth, don’t miss a visit to the Noilly Prat museum and factory where vermouth has been produced since 1853. Book a tour of Maison Noilly Prat.

I also suggest a short walk in the historic village centre. Some of the houses here date back to the 12th century AD. The Church of St. John the Baptist is also worth a visit to admire its beautiful stained-glass windows. From the port, walk south along the shores of the Étang de Thau to spot flamingoes.

Sète

Built upon and around Mont St. Clair, Sète is a port town situated on the south-eastern end of the Étang de Thau. Also known as the ‘Venice of Languedoc’ because of its canals, Sète is famously proud of its cultural traditions and dialect.

Things to do in Sète include walking along its downtown canals (market day on Wednesdays is especially lively), visiting one of its museums (such as the Paul Valery Museum), hiking up Mont St. Clair for panoramic views and tucking into a delicious seafood meal. You can also opt to go on a boat tour of the Étang de Thau lagoon (including oyster tasting at a farm) and the Sète canals.

Just outside Sète, you’ll find some of the best beaches and beach clubs in the area such as Plage de la Corniche and Plage Baleine.

Further north from Pezenas

Should you have more time for this South of France road trip, there are more places of interest to visit further north. Here are a few suggestions:

Lac du Salagou

Lac du Salagou is an artificial lake about a 30-minute drive north of Pezenas. The abundance of iron oxide in the soil gives its shores a wondrous reddish colour. The lake is popular amongst locals who come here to picnic, hike, kayak and swim in its crystal-clear water.

There are several hamlets and wineries located in the hills above the lake which are great for a visit. I recommend visiting the charming hamlet of Octon, with its restaurants and wineries.

Millau Viaduct

About an hour’s drive north of Pezenas, the Millau Viaduct in southern France is the tallest bridge structure in the world. Located on the A75 highway linking Paris with Montpellier, the bridge is a spectacular engineering feat.

Designed by Sir Norman Foster and constructed by a French consortium, its tallest mast is 336m (that’s taller than the Eiffel Tower!) and its road deck is suspended 270m or 890ft above the valley floor! There’s a visitor centre at one end of the viaduct.

You can also visit the town of Millau in the valley below. From Millau, it’s also possible to go on a boat tour along the river and under the viaduct.

La Cavalerie

Just off the A75 highway on the way to the Millau Viaduct lies La Cavalerie, a village that’s absolutely worth a stop. The village was founded by the Knights Templar and is composed of a walled settlement with imposing towers and gates.

Lodève

This historic city, with its roots in Roman times, was a major centre for textiles in the 18th-19th centuries. Dominated by its impressive Cathedral of St. Fulcran, the old town of Lodeve is a delightful mesh of quiet streets and lanes.

Montpellier

Montpellier is the seventh-largest city in France. It has the distinction of being the home to one of the oldest universities in the world (established in 1220) and one of the oldest medical schools (with prominent alumni such as Nostradamus). Today, students make up about a quarter of the population, making Montpellier a youthful and vibrant city, with a splendid mix of old and new.

Montpellier is one of my favourite cities to visit in the south of France due to its great vibes, excellent food and large array of things to do and see in and around the city. The top things to do in Montpellier include:

• explore the medieval old town
• stroll around Place Royale du Peyrou and the Aqueduc Saint-Clément
• visit the 16th century Cathedral of St. Pierre
• visit the Musée Fabre
• look out for colourful street art
• take the tram to the city beach or go a bit further afield to other beaches
• read my post about things to do in Montpellier.

Restaurants in Montpellier I can recommend include Rosemarie, Le Baroque and Le Paresseur.

I suggest spending a few nights in or around Montpellier to experience the city and go on day trips to surrounding places. Search for accommodations in Montpellier.

Here are my suggestions for places to visit near Montpellier:

Aigues-Mortes

This medieval town is surrounded by impressive walls and towers. In addition to visiting the town, I recommend a stroll atop the walls for views of the surrounding pink salt pans. Aigues-Mortes is a popular place for tourists, especially in the summer, but venture away from Place Saint Louis (the main square) and you’ll find quiet streets with quaint houses.

Aigues-Mortes can easily be combined with a day at the beach in Espiguette (see below). Between Aigues-Mortes and Espiguette are expansive pink salt pans with large flamingo populations. You can also book a day trip from Montpellier to the salt marshes, Aigues-Mortes and Camargue.

Espiguette

The best beaches near Montpellier, in my opinion, are at Espiguette. Situated on the edge of the vast Camargue Natural Park, Espiguette has miles of sand and crystal-clear water. It’s a wild beach though with few facilities so go prepared.

Saint Guilhem-le-Désert

This medieval village, located in a narrow gorge, is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France. Saint Guilhem-le-Désert is most famous for its Abbey of Gellone, along with the nearby Pont du Diable, a UNESCO World Heritage site. On the way, you can also stop at the impressive Clamouse caves.

If you’re visiting during the busy summer months, plan to get there by 10am or in the late-afternoon to avoid the crowds. You can also opt for an organised day tour from Montpellier.

Wineries near Montpellier

There are many wineries in the area around Montpellier. Some of the closest can be found just north of the city, such as Château Montel, Domaine Pierre Clavel, Château Puech-Haut and Domaine Haut-Lirou. Check out this wine and olive tour from Montpellier.

Places to visit in this wine area include the gorgeous village of Les Matelles and the nature park around the Pic Saint-Loop mountain (a popular hiking area). If you choose to visit Les Matelles, drop by for a splendid lunch under the trees at Restaurant Le Pic Saint Loup.

Provence

This South of France road trip route continues from Montpellier to Provence. This region, famous for its lavender fields, vineyards, picturesque villages and historic cities, is a joy to explore. Before ending this road trip in Marseille, I recommend spending several days in the area between the Nîmes-Avignon axis and Aix-en-Provence in the western corner of Provence. Search for accommodations in this area. Here are some of the best places to visit in this part of Provence:

Nîmes

Nîmes is often called the French Rome due to its magnificent Roman monuments. It’s a spotless city with impressive Roman buildings, beautiful museums, lively squares and leafy streets. The top sights in Nîmes include:

• the Roman Arena
• the old town
• Maison Carrée
• the resplendent Les Jardins de la Fontaine
• ruins of Temple de Diane
• check out my post on things to see in Nîmes (includes a suggested walking route).

A fabulous lunch spot I can recommend is Le Menestrel, located in the old town – lovely owners and terrific food!

Pont du Gard

Another Roman monument near Nîmes that’s worth a visit is Pont du Gard. Built in the 1st century AD, it’s the tallest of all Roman aqueduct bridges, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This three-tier aqueduct is a 35-minute drive from Nîmes.

There are numerous wineries in this area that are worth visiting. One family winery I can recommend is Château Mourgues du Grès, a 30-minute drive from Pont du Gard.

Uzès

A short drive northwest of Pont du Gard lies the charming town of Uzès. Originally a Roman settlement in the 1st century BC, Uzès is these days famous for its beautiful medieval streets and open market, reputedly one of the best in Provence. Some of the top sights in Uzès include Saint-Théodorit cathedral and Fenestrelle tower, the Ducal castle (also known as the Duché) and the Church of Saint-Etienne.

Avignon

Located on the banks of the Rhône River, Avignon’s historic city centre is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its importance in European history during the 14th century. Between 1309 and 1377, Avignon was the seat of seven consecutive Popes.

Arguably the top attraction in Avignon is the 14th century Pope’s Palace, one of the largest medieval Gothic structures in Europe. Other things to do in Avignon include:

• wandering around the gorgeous streets of the old town
• visiting Pont d’Avignon
• exploring Place de l’Horloge, a beautiful square lined by trees and cafés, and location of the City Hall (Hôtel de Ville) and Opera House
• visiting the Les Halles covered market
• strolling along Rue Teinturiers, a centuries-old street that runs along a canal with watermills
• read my post about things to see in Avignon (includes a suggested walking route)
• join an Avignon walking tour that also includes entrance to the Pope’s Palace.

I recommend having a meal at the delightful Restaurant L’Épicerie Avignon in the old town next to Basilique Saint-Pierre.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

A day trip from Avignon I can recommend is to the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine region, just 30-minutes away. Read my post about a day trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Aix-en-Provence

This university city, about 30km north of Marseille, is another historic city that’s absolutely worth a visit. A former capital of Provence and the birthplace of Paul Cézanne, Aix is a city of stately buildings, tree-lined boulevards and bustling squares.

It’s a compact city, making it easy to explore on foot. Some of the top things to do in Aix include:

• explore the old town with its stunning Baroque architecture and many fountains
• visit Atelier Cézanne, the former home/studio of this famous painter or join a
• stroll along Cours Mirabeau, the city’s main boulevard, with its beautiful buildings, fountains and designer stores
• visit Musée Granet, an art museum with an impressive collection
• browse around the open market – one of the best in Provence (every Tuesday, Thursday and Friday mornings). During market days, the streets, such as Cours Mirabeau, are closed off and vendors take over
• have a coffee at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with its colourful flower market
• taste an Aix specialty: calisson (a marzipan-like sweet made of candied fruits and ground almonds and covered with a layer of royal icing)

Luberon

Should you have more time, I can also recommend exploring the Luberon area, with its stunning hilltop villages such as Gordes, Roussillon and Lourmarin.

Arles

Famous for its Roman monuments, Van Gogh heritage and charming lanes, Arles is another must-visit in this part of Provence. Don’t miss visiting the Roman Amphitheatre and adjacent Theatre, as well as other ancient Roman structures such as the Cryptoporticus and Baths of Constantine. The Place de la Republique, the city’s main square, with its 4th century obelisk, is also worth a visit.

I also suggest visiting the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh, a museum with works by the famous artist as well of those inspired by him. If you’re a fan of modern art and architecture, head to LUMA, a modern art centre designed by Frank Gehry. The striking glass and steel tower was inspired by the works of Van Gogh.

Les Baux de Provence

A (half) day trip I can absolutely recommend is to the village of Les Baux de Provence (30-minute drive) and the extraordinary Carrières de Lumières, a multimedia art show inside an old stone quarry.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

You can extend this trip to include Saint-Remy-de-Provence, a historic town with ties to Van Gogh – some of his most famous paintings were produced here and the surrounding area. In the outskirts of the town, you’ll find the Roman ruins of Glanum.

Marseille

Marseille is France’s second-largest city and its oldest. Most tourists skip Marseille but it’s absolutely worthwhile to spend a day exploring the beautiful harbour and its surroundings. Don’t miss a wander around the lively Vieux Port, and visiting historic and cultural attractions such as the stunning Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica and the Cathedral. I also recommend walking around the atmospheric Le Panier neighbourhood. You can see all these highlights during a 4-hour guided walking tour.

One dish you have to try in Marseille is bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish soup that originated in Marseille. Read my post about things to see in Marseille. Search for accommodations in Marseille.

Self-drive 15-day South of France itinerary

This 14 night/15 day self-drive southern France itinerary covers the best places to visit in Occitanie and western Provence as described above. You can start the trip in Toulouse and follow the entire itinerary or concentrate on 1-2 areas, depending on your interests or the length of your stay, and end in Marseille.

I’ve included a suggested length of stay per place/area. The itinerary is as follows:

• Toulouse (2 nights)
  
• Foix (2 nights) and the French Pyrenees
• Carcasonne (1 night)
  
• Narbonne – Béziers (3 nights) – stay 3 nights in or around these cities
• Montpellier (2 nights)
• Nîmes – Avignon – Arles (3 nights) – stay 3 nights in or around these cities
• Marseille (1 night)

Car hire

If you’re hiring a car, I recommend picking up the car after your sightseeing in Toulouse. At the end of this road trip, I suggest dropping the car off at Marseille Airport or in the city centre before you tour the city.

Check out the Velvet Escape Travel Planning Resources page.

Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach

The Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach is a five-star resort, about a 15-minute drive from Phuket International Airport (map). The resort is spread out across a hillside, backed by thick forests and fronting Naithon Beach, a lovely stretch of sand lapped by the clear, turquoise Andaman Sea. I spent several relaxing days here with my family and we had a terrific time enjoying the resort and the beach, and simply catching up with each other.

The main building is located on the lower part of the hill and includes the lobby area, restaurants, bars, the gym and Dhatri Spa, and an infinity pool. I was especially impressed by the lush greenery, with many trees and flowering plants.

The check-in process was a bit slow but we were offered cold refreshments and snacks while we waited. This also gave me the opportunity to explore the expansive lobby, which is surrounded by beautiful reflecting pools.

The accommodations, a choice of 277 rooms and pool villas, are located around the main buildings and extend up the hill. I chose an Ocean room in a separate wing that was a short walk from the lobby area.

Ocean room

My room, a spacious 46 square meters in size, was absolutely gorgeous. There was a walk-in closet, bathroom with a separate rain shower cubicle and bath tub, a large king-size bed and a flat screen tv with a sound bar. There was also a Nespresso coffee machine and minibar.

The first thing I checked out was the view. I was a tad disappointed that it was only a partial view of the sea but that was a trade-off I was aware of. I requested rooms for me and my family near the main building to avoid having to climb up and down the hill (or having to wait for a buggy every time). This meant that I was within close proximity of the resort’s restaurants, main pool and the beach. The downside is that these rooms on the lower part of the hill have their views partially blocked by trees.

In the walk-in closet, there was a bathrobe and slippers, and a beach bag with a large towel, which I proceeded to use every day.

Resort facilities

Restaurants

The Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon has two restaurants: Elements, which provides for all-day dining, and Vero, and Italian restaurant. Both are located atop each other in the main building.

Breakfast each day at Elements was a highlight of my stay. The huge buffet offered Asian (Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian and Middle Eastern) and Western dishes. There were also separate counters for smoothies and juices, champagne and Bloody Mary’s! I spent at least an hour there every morning!

Dining al fresco at Vero was also a treat. The food and wines were excellent, as was the service. I loved sitting outside and watching the sunset while sipping on wine.

There’s also a Bakery and Bowls & More café (salads, poké bowls and smoothies) at the Health Club.

Bars

There are also several bars scattered around the resort. In the main building, there’s the C Bar at the lobby area and the Azur Pool Bar next to the main pool. There’s also the M Bar, located higher up the hill at the second pool (which is for adults only).

My favourite was the C Bar with its sunken lounges surrounded by a reflecting pool. It’s a lovely spot to catch a cool breeze and to enjoy the sunset.

Pools

There are two pools, one at the main building and another higher up the hill. The main pool offers beautiful views of Naithon beach and the sea. Around it are several levels with deck chairs and sunshades. From the main pool area, a staircase leads down to the beach.

Dhatri Spa

The resort is home to (reputedly) the best spa in Phuket: Dhatri. The spa offers a variety of massages and other wellness treatments. I didn’t get to try the spa as I found a terrific massage place in the village.

Naithon beach

Often considered as one of the best beaches in Phuket, Naithon beach is a wide expanse of fine sand lined by casuarina trees. There are no beach facilities like deck chairs, though there is a section for beach massages and a makeshift shower on the side of a tree.

I loved the beach and its crystal-clear water! It was a joy to swim in the sea and watch the many fish darting around. The beach is wide and long so it never felt crowded each day I was there.

The village

Naithon village consists of a stretch of cafés, restaurants, shops and smaller resorts along the beach. It’s a laid-back place, with a single road separating the village from the beach. Along the road are numerous street food stalls complete with rickety tables and stools, which are especially busy in the evenings. Whenever I’m in Thailand, I always make it a point to check out the food stalls, and they seldom disappoint.

After a day at the beach, my family and I would gather at the Beach & Bubbles café for drinks and pre-dinner snacks.

Naithon spa/massage

There are several spa/massage places along the road. The ones I can recommend are Naris and Ayodiawan, which are perhaps the furthest from the Pullman resort but are absolutely worth the trek! If you enjoy a strong massage in an authentic Thai style, head for Naris.

Restaurants

There are several restaurants along Naithon Beach, and a few higher up in the hills above the beach. We dined in the village twice during our stay: at Shameena, a cosy two-level restaurant opposite the beach, and The Hill, a restaurant up in the hills with lovely views and ditto food.

The Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon resort is a lovely place for a tranquil couples retreat or a family holiday. I enjoyed the room and facilities, whilst the service staff were friendly and attentive. It was my first time in this part of Phuket and I appreciated the fact that it’s close to the airport. Aside from enjoying the beautiful beach, the village and the resort’s facilities, there isn’t much else to do in the vicinity except perhaps a Thai cooking class (at the resort) or visiting the nearby elephant sanctuary. Patong and Phuket Town are both about an hour’s drive away. So, if you’re looking for a relaxing holiday in Phuket, consider Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon. Check here for rates (Booking.com).

Check out my other hotel recommendations on Velvet Escape

Exploring Martina Franca – a walking route

Founded in the 10th century, Martina Franca is one of the ‘white towns’ of Puglia. It’s not as well-known as other towns in Puglia such as Alberobello, Ostuni and Lecce, but that’s no reason to skip it. Martina Franca is absolutely worth a visit, if you ask me. It’s less touristy than some other places in the Itria Valley, has a wonderful local vibe and it’s a delight to explore. In fact, I would say that it’s one of my top places in Puglia to visit! Furthermore, being in the centre of the Itria Valley, it’s the perfect base from which to see the rest of the valley.

Things to see in Martina Franca

Martina Franca’s old town can easily be seen in a few hours on foot as it’s very compact. If you’re visiting Martina Franca by car, I recommend parking at the public parking lot at Piazza Francesco Crispi. From here, it’s a short walk along Villa Garibaldi park to Porta di Santo Stefano, one of the town’s four historic gates.

Palazzo Ducale

As you pass through Porta di Santo Stefano, you’ll see the imposing 17th century Palazzo Ducale (the city hall) and the Piazza Roma. If it’s open, I recommend visiting the Palazzo (free entrance) to see its ornate rooms, frescoes and stunning chandeliers.

From Piazza Roma, I recommend walking along Via Vittorio Emanuele. Notice the lovely Baroque façades of the buildings and townhouses, and the gorgeous iron-lace balconies.

Piazza Plebiscito

You’ll soon arrive at one of the grandest piazzas in Martina Franca: Piazza Plebiscito. Fronting the square is the Basilica di San Martino, and next to it stands Palazzo dell’Università, with its 18th century clock tower.

Basilica di San Martino

The Basilica di San Martino (locals often refer to it as the Duomo or Cathedral) is arguably Martina Franca’s most iconic monument. This 18th century basilica features an elegant, sand-coloured façade in the Baroque style that’s especially beautiful in the soft light of the late-afternoon sun.

Step inside to admire the paintings, altar and side chapels.

Piazza Maria Immacolata

A short distance from Piazza Plebiscito lies, in my opinion, the most beautiful piazza of Martina Franca: Piazza Maria Immacolata. Also called Piazza dei Portici, this square is lined by grand buildings in a semi-circular form. An arcade of graceful arches hugs the square and provides shade for the various cafés and restaurants. It’s a wonderful place to sit back, have a drink or meal and watch the world go by.

La Lama

Just south of the main squares lies the La Lama neighbourhood. Once the poorest part of the town, La Lama is these days a charming area with gleaming white houses and cobbled lanes. Martina Franca is one of the citta bianche (white towns) of Puglia, a distinction owed largely to this whitewashed neighbourhood.

It’s the perfect place to get lost for an hour or so. My advice is to simply follow your instincts in La Lama’s winding alleys and soak up the wonderful atmosphere. Or you can follow my suggested Martina Franca walking route in the map above.

Church of St. Dominic

One more point of interest in Martina Franca is the Church of St. Dominic. Located in a quiet street, this church, with its imposing Baroque exterior, is just stunning.

Where to eat in Martina Franca

Martina Franca is famous for its cuisine and there’s a big variety of restaurants and trattorias that serve local specialties. One of my favourites is Garibaldi Bistrot at Piazza Plebiscito. Another lunch spot I can recommend is Caseificio Gentile at Piazza Maria Immacolata.

For a more higher-end experience, check out Ristorante Four Seasons (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 17/18). In the La Lama neighbourhood, my favourite eatery is Osteria del Coco Pazzo (Via Arco Mastrovito 18). Ask for the local specialty ‘capocollo’, a cured pork salami.

Where to stay in Martina Franca

Martina Franca can easily be visited as a (half) day trip. However, there are quite a few things to see in Martina Franca and it has a magnetic local vibe that grows on you with time. Furthermore, its central location makes it the perfect base to explore the rest of Val D’Itria.

I made Martina Franca my base each time I visited Val D’Itria. Accommodations I can recommend include Terrazze Sulla Valle, a guesthouse just outside the old town, La Dimora di Nonna Dora, an apartment in the old town and Casa Adele, a lovely 3-star hotel. Search for hotels in Martina Franca (Booking.com).

Read more about Puglia on Velvet Escape.

Autumn vibes

The first thing I did was head out for a walk around the compact old town. The temperature was a balmy 20 degrees Celsius but the trees were already starting to sport hues of orange and yellow. One of my favourite things to do in Graz is to climb up Castle Hill for lovely views across the city. As I made my way up, I sensed a wonderful vibe in the city: locals were out and about visiting various cultural and food festivals or simply enjoying the gorgeous weather in the parks and terraces. I caught a pretty blissful whiff of roasted chestnuts, a warm, smoky scent that’s synonymous with the colder months, as I walked up the hill.

Once atop the hill, I was greeted by stupendous views of the city, with its terracotta rooftops.

The Truffle Festival

One of the reasons I decided to visit Graz in autumn was to experience the annual Truffle Festival. Created to celebrate the seven different varieties of truffles that are found in the forests in and around Graz, the Truffle Festival now also includes an international truffle market.

During the festival, typically held in late-October to early-November, there are guided hikes in the forests to search for truffles, the truffle market and partnerships with numerous restaurants in Graz to feature truffles in their menus.

Truffle Market

The International Truffle Market is located in the lovely Paradeishof (where else would you have a truffle market? ;-)). The market hosts truffle vendors and chefs from Graz, Italy and Slovenia. It was an absolutely delicious experience going from one stall to the next, and tasting a variety of truffle-themed dishes. A local wine vendor offered specially selected wines which perfectly complemented the truffle dishes.

An exquisite culinary experience

My Graz culinary journey continued with a sublime 7-course dinner at Zur Goldenen Birn. This fine-dining restaurant, arguably the finest in Graz, served a special seasonal menu with subtle hints of truffles.

Each dish was simply a work of art and a feast for the senses. The chef’s skills and love of regional products were evident. Each course was a multi-sensory celebration founded on fresh produce, well-honed techniques and artistic talent.

We chose the wine-pairing and were presented a variety of local and regional wines. It was a terrific introduction to the great array of wines produced around Graz.

Being a bit of a history nerd, I was thrilled by the golden pears which the waiter placed at our table before each course. Each pear held up a card with a historical anecdote, and which tied in with the dish that was about to be served. What a wonderful idea!

Klanglicht

Graz had another treat in store for me: Klanglicht. This light and sound festival is held each year for several nights in late-October and involves artists from Austria and around the world. During the festival, Graz’s historic buildings form the façade for an absolutely enchanting light and sound experience.

I strolled around the old town to see some of the installations, most of which had free admission. There was a spectacular light and laser show in the Stadtpfarrkirche zum Heiligen Blut (Parish Church of the Holy Blood), a church that’s famous for its beautiful and intriguing stained glass windows.

At the Grazer Burg (Graz Castle), I discovered a wondrous installation of giant bubbles stacked atop one another. In the adjacent park, the side of a building formed the screen for a series of vibrant, moving images. Klanglicht sure is a highlight of autumn in Graz!

In the countryside

In addition to wandering around the city, I made two trips into the surrounding countryside to visit various attractions and see the fall foliage in the forests.

Rein Abbey

Perhaps the cultural highlight of this trip to Graz was my visit to the Rein Abbey. A short drive northwest of Graz, Rein Abbey, founded in 1129, is the oldest (continuously-inhabited) Cistercian monastery in the world.Before visiting the abbey, I went for a stroll in the surrounding forest to admire the gorgeous fall foliage.

The highlight of the abbey is its basilica, with one of the most splendorous Baroque interiors I’ve ever seen! Read more about my visit to Rein Abbey.

Piber Stud Farm

The following day, I went on another day trip, this time to the west of Graz. My first stop was the Piber Stud Farm, the historic training and breeding complex for the Lipizzaner horses. This farm is the exclusive supplier of Lipizzaner horses to the world-famous Spanish Riding School, one of the top attractions in Vienna.

The tour of the complex, including a visit to the farm and stables, was a wondrous experience that I didn’t quite expect. During the tour, I learned about the fascinating history of this breed and its role in the Habsburg Empire.

Hundertwasser Church

A short drive from the stud farm, in the village of Bärnbach, stands a peculiar-looking church. Designed by the famous Austrian artist, Hundertwasser, this whimsical church is a celebration of colour, organic forms and world religions.

Schilcher wine route

There are numerous wine routes in the vicinity of Graz and the Schilcher Wine Route is probably the closest. The route winds its way around the hills, passing vineyard-clad slopes, farms and forests. It was another opportunity to admire the scenic countryside around Graz and have a meal at one of the wine taverns (locally known as a buschenschank).

The wine taverns are a great way to learn about and taste the local wines and produce. We visited the Buschenschank Zach. Situated atop a hill, the tavern offered panoramic views of the surrounding hills. Our meal comprised a platter of cold cuts, cheeses and bread, accompanied by a glass of a delicious local white wine.

Read about another wine route near Graz: the South Styrian Wine Road.

Autumn is perhaps my favourite time of the year for a city trip. In most cases, it’s less crowded thus making travel and accommodation easier and cheaper to book. If you’re thinking of a city break in autumn, consider Graz and its surroundings. Here’s a Graz itinerary for a short trip, and a Graz architecture walk.

Note: my trip to Graz was sponsored by Graz Tourism. However, as always, all views expressed above are mine and mine only.

Art Nouveau or Modernist architecture in Las Palmas

As you explore Las Palmas, you’ll soon see numerous colourful Art Nouveau buildings. This architectural style arrived in Las Palmas in the late-19th century. Two architects, Laureano Arroyo Velasco and Fernando Navarro Navarro, designed many buildings in what they called the Canarian Modernism style during the early-20th century. These Art Nouveau or Modernist buildings have been lovingly restored and are scattered throughout the Triana and Vegueta neighbourhoods.

Things to see in the old town of Las Palmas – a walking route

This walking route starts at Teatro Pérez Galdós in the Triana neighbourhood, a gorgeous part of the city with many Art Nouveau/Modernist buildings. It then continues past some of the highlights of Triana before crossing over to Vegueta, the oldest neighbourhood in Las Palmas. In Vegueta, you’ll find many of the biggest attractions of Las Palmas, including the Cathedral and Casa de Colón (Christopher Columbus House). This route can easily be done as (part of) a Las Palmas day trip. Here are the top sights on this walking tour of Las Palmas:

Teatro Pérez Galdós

This beautiful theatre was built in the late-19th century, rebuilt after a fire in the 1920’s and refurbished in 2007. The main hall, with its stunning ceiling, is a breathtaking sight. These days, the theatre is the most important venue for opera and classical performances in the city.

Palacete Rodriquez Quegles

From the theatre, continue to Calle Cano, and Calle Triana, two lovely streets lined by gorgeous 19th/20th century buildings filled with shops and cafés. You’ll find numerous Modernist gems in this street.

Turn left at Calle San Bernardo to visit Palacete Rodriguez Quegles, a stunning Modernist-style palace. Step inside, if it’s open, to admire the interior and stained glass windows.

Gabinete Literario

Your next stop is down the road: the equally impressive Gabinete Literario (Literary Cabinet). This stunning building houses a cultural centre, library and a top-notch restaurant. I recommend going in to see its splendorous interior.

Plaza Hurtado de Mendoza (Plaza de las Ranas)

From the Gabinete Literario, it’s a short stroll to Plaza Hurtado de Mendoza. You’ll soon discover why it’s also known as Frogs’ Square! It’s a leafy square with lovely kiosks in a Modernist/Mudéjar style.

Mercado de Vegueta

From Plaza de las Ranas, cross the busy road to the Vegueta neighbourhood. Your next stop is the colourful Mercado de Vegueta. Here, you’ll find stalls selling fresh vegetables, meat and seafood. There are also several bistros (inside and outside the market) where you can stop for a snack and a drink.

Casa de Colón

Wander around the atmospheric lanes of Vegueta, along the charming Calle Montesdeoca to Plaza San Antonio Abad and the adjacent Casa de Colón (Columbus House), one of the top attractions in Las Palmas.

I recommend visiting this fascinating museum to learn about the ties between Christopher Columbus, his voyages to the Americas and Las Palmas.

Cathedral and Plaza de Santa Ana

Your next stop is the Cathedral of Santa Ana, one of the top touristic things to see in Las Palmas. Located a short walk from Casa de Colón and fronting the grand Plaza de Santa Ana, the Cathedral was built in the 16th century in a Gothic style. The nave, with its towering columns and vaulted ceiling in the shape of palm fronds, is especially impressive.

I highly recommend going up the tower (included in the ticket price) to enjoy the panoramic views of Las Palmas. You can choose between the stairs and the elevator.

Plaza de Santa Ana is the largest and most beautiful square in the old town. Lined by decorative palm trees and elegant buildings, this square is a visual treat. Facing the square with your back to the Cathedral (photo above), the buildings on the right are the Episcopal Palace and the Bishopric of the Canary Islands. At the far end stands the Casas Consistoriales, the former City Hall, which now houses the tourist office. On the left are various boutique hotels as well as the Historic Archives of Las Palmas. One of the hotels, Cordial, has a rooftop bar and terrace with fabulous views (scroll down to the end of this walking route to check out the views).

Plaza de Espíritu Santo

This triangular square is located a stone’s throw from Plaza de Santa Ana. The iconic fountain is one of the few remaining covered fountains of Hispanic architecture. The square is surrounded by stately, colourful buildings. The little garden is home to flowering shrubs and trees that represent the link between the Canary Islands and the Americas.

Plaza de Santo Domingo

From Plaza de Espíritu Santo, head south to Plaza de Santo Domingo. Along the way, you’ll pass the Museo Canarias (a Canarian archeological museum). Plaza de Santo Domingo is a tranquil square with many trees and a fountain. It’s surrounded by lovely houses as well as the 17th century Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

I recommend exploring the quieter streets around Plaza de Santo Domingo. Calle Hernán Pérez de Grado is filled with brightly coloured houses. You can also continue westwards to P. de San Jose. From this street, alleys continue up the steep slopes of the hills. The Ascensor (elevator) makes it easier for locals to reach the higher neighbourhoods – and offers great panoramic views too.

For an unforgettable aerial view of Las Palmas and the ocean, consider a tandem paragliding flight from nearby Los Giles hill.

From Plaza de Santo Domingo, you can also head eastwards along Calle Domingo Doreste, then north along Calle Alcalde Francisco Hernández González towards Plaza de San Agustín. Check out the gorgeous Modernist building (MASAP Anticuario) at the corner of Calle Juan E. Doreste.

If you’re hungry, I can recommend a meal at Restaurant Dos Balcones (Calle Domingo Doreste, 12), a few blocks east of Plaza Santo Domingo.

CAAM (Atlantic Centre of Modern Art)

Slowly make your way to the Atlantic Centre of Modern Art, a beautiful contemporary art museum (free entrance). Along the way, be sure to stroll along some of my favourite streets in this area, including Calle Espíritu Santo and Calle los Balcones. You can also stop for a drink at the lovely Plaza de El Cortado, in the shade of the Cathedral.

A cocktail with a view

To cap off your exploration of Las Palmas, I recommend heading to Terraza Belvedere, a rooftop bar at Boutique Hotel Cordial Plaza Mayor de Santa Ana. This bar (with terraces on two levels) offers stunning views of Plaza de Santa Ana, the Cathedral and practically the whole of Las Palmas. Order a cocktail and enjoy the views!

How to get to Las Palmas

Las Palmas has an international airport with frequent flights to the European mainland. The airport is about 20 minutes south of the city. If you’re staying in the south of the island, Las Palmas makes for a terrific day trip. There are regular buses to Las Palmas from various points along the south coast such as Maspalomas. Disembark at Teatro Pérez Galdós to start this walking route.

Where to stay in Las Palmas

Las Palmas is great as a day trip from the coast but I recommend spending a few nights there to truly immerse yourself in this beautiful city. There’s a lot more to see and do in Las Palmas, such as its beaches and the nearby fishing town of San Cristóbal. For a place to stay, I can definitely recommend Boutique Hotel Cordial Plaza Mayor de Santa Ana. Search for hotels in Las Palmas (Booking.com).

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A brief history of Otranto

Located about a 45-minute drive from Lecce (one of my favourite cities in Puglia), Otranto (map) is listed as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. A Greek settlement in the 8th century B.C., Otranto was then occupied by the Romans. It became an important port and naval base due to its strategic location. In the centuries that followed, Otranto was invaded by the Byzantines, Ottomans, French and a host of other powers who vied to control the eastern Adriatic. The siege and occupation by the Ottomans in 1480, during which half the town’s population was killed, was especially gruesome. Otranto remained an attractive target right up to WWII.

8 things to do in Otranto

These days, the town is, in my book, one of the best places to visit in Puglia. Otranto is famous for its castle, walled town, harbour front, sandy beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters, making it absolutely worthwhile to visit. It’s especially busy during the hot, summer months, so I recommend visiting Otranto in spring (May-June) or autumn (September-October) when temperatures are more agreeable and there are fewer tourists. Here are my recommendations for things to see and do in Otranto:

1. Visit the Castle

The 15th century Castello Aragonese is an impressive sight. The perimeter is surrounded by a deep moat and its towers provide stunning views of the town and the harbour. Walk up to Torre Matta for lovely views of the old town walls and the sea.

2. Wander around the maze of streets in the old town

The old town, almost completely surrounded by thick walls, is comprised of a maze of cobblestone streets and alleys interspersed by little squares. There’s a plethora of shops, cafés, wine bars and restaurants as well as various historic sights.

3. Walk along the harbour front

Go for a stroll along the harbour front and sea-walls to truly appreciate Otranto’s stunning location. The views of the harbour, with its multiple hues of turquoise, and the medieval walls are absolutely beautiful. Start at the ‘La Villa‘ park – don’t miss the gorgeous ‘Il Pitosforo’ tree with its low-hanging canopy – and continue to Lungomare degli Eroi, the waterfront promenade.

From there, head for the Bastione dei Pelasgi (Pelasgian Bastion) and follow the wall along Via dei Bastioni to Torre Matta. The sea views are just stunning! On clear days, you’ll be able to see the mountains of Albania in the far distance.

4. Visit the Otranto Cathedral

The 11th century Cathedral, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, is one of the historic highlights of Otranto. Inside, you’ll find an exquisite 12th century mosaic floor and a gold-gilded ceiling.

The crypt is a solemn place, with 70 columns supporting beautiful arches. Here, you’ll find a shrine consisting of the skulls and bones of more than 800 citizens who were beheaded during the Ottoman Siege of Otranto (1480 A.D.) for refusing to convert to Islam. You’ll also find beautiful frescoes on some of the walls.

5. Admire the Byzantine frescoes

The Chiesa di San Pietro (Church of St. Peter) is a little church, tucked away in an alley above the Piazzetta de Ferraris square. Probably built in the 10th century A.D., the church is one of the southernmost Byzantine structures on the Italian peninsula. Inside, you’ll find some of the most treasured Byzantine frescoes in Puglia.

6. Enjoy the sea

Once you lay your eyes on that gorgeous sea in numerous shades of turquoise, you’ll definitely want to jump into its crystal-clear water. There are several places in the town from which the sea is accessible. Some are small, sandy beaches whilst others are little more than concrete paths that run along the medieval sea walls.

The nearest sandy beach is Spiaggia dei Gradoni (5-10 minute walk from the old town) which has various facilities like sun beds and bathrooms. There are also several beach clubs along this stretch of sand.

At the Lungomare degli Eroi, you’ll spot a small patch of sand called Spiaggetta del Molo (or Children’s Beach).

Under Lungomare degli Eroi, the concrete pathway and wave-breaker blocks are popular spots for the locals to sunbathe and enjoy the crystalline water.

7. Indulge in traditional Puglian cuisine

There are numerous restaurants in Otranto which serve terrific Puglian (sea)food and wines. In the old town, I recommend dining at Vicolo Matto Fishbar, L’ora di Mezzo and La Pignata.

A short drive away, north of Otranto, I had a fantastic seafood meal at Ristorante Agriturismo “Il Diavolicchio Goloso” (map).

8. Wake up to an amazing view

I stayed at Palazzo de Mori, a gorgeous hotel in the old town. The spacious rooms are scattered across various buildings and some boast terrific views of the harbour.

Each morning, I woke up, opened the windows and just gaped at the stunning sea view. One of my favourite moments there was breakfast on the terrace.

Parking

If you’re driving and staying in the old town, note that the old town is for pedestrians only. There are various paid and free parking lots located at the edges of the old town. If you’re staying in the old town such as Palazzo de Mori, I recommend parking on the street (paid) for 10 minutes and dropping off your bags at your hotel before re-parking your car at one of the long-term parking lots. Palazzo de Mori has its own parking area about a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

Places to visit near Otranto

There are lots of places near Otranto that warrant a longer stay in the town. Just outside the town, you’ll find the old Bauxite Quarry, which has become a noteworthy attraction.

Just south of Otranto lies the easternmost point of Italy. This spot at Punta Palascia is marked by a lighthouse.

A bit further south, the Costa Otranto Regional Nature Park is a wild coastal area with grass hills that gently slope down to the sea. Visitors are able to hike to the Grotta della Macchia (caves) and Torre Sant’Emiliano, the remains of a medieval watchtower.

Just north of Otranto, the coast is home to some of the best beaches and most beautiful rock formations in Puglia. Baia dei Turchi, a wondrous stretch of white sand, is the most popular beach.

I also recommend a visit to Torre Sant’Andrea, a bit further north, to see its stunning rock formations. This area is also a popular swimming and sunbathing spot.

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