Travels with Zenaida

Japan: Nagasaki’s Atomic Bomb Museum

zda — Sun, 11 Mar 2012 20:34:43 +0000

It is the one-year anniversary of the devastating earthquake in Japan today. We all know that it was not only the quake and the tsunami that followed that caused such devastating destruction, but also the damage to the atomic reactors in Fukushima. Before March 11, 2011, I dare say that no one knew about Fukushima. After that date, it became a household word, unfortunately with the most negative of connotations.

A year ago, I was in Nagasaki, Japan and, while what happened in Fukushima was of a totally different nature and took place under totally different circumstances, it does show up a common denominator: the consequences of what can happen when the use of atomic power goes wrong.

Of course, I visited the Atomic Bomb Museum. In fact, I sat on the very spot where, on a similarly bright and sunny day, also at 11:02 a.m., on August 9, 1945, the atomic bomb hit Nagasaki. A blinding white flash, all the clocks stopped and devastation hit the city and killed about 74,000 instantly and another 75,000 as a direct result, let alone the tens of thousands that suffered injuries.

The museum is a large complex and I spent a good three hours there. There are technical, political and historical exhibits. For me, the most emotionally charged exhibits were the every-day items that have survived in some shape or other, that had belonged to every-day people. The tags gave just enough identifying information, letting the items themselves speak of their history – the melted rosary (Nagasaki had a Catholic cathedral), the school-girl’s lunch box with charred rice, the photo of the dazed young mother with the dying infant at her breast.... I sat down several times on the benches provided in the half darkness of the exhibits and simply let the involuntary tears run down my cheeks. I noticed I was not the only one. Other visitors, young and old, Japanese and foreigners, male and female, had the same reaction. We were united in our grief and I am sure that all were thinking the same thought – we cannot allow this to happen again.

Japan: The artistry of straw

zda — Tue, 06 Mar 2012 23:40:19 +0000

The country and culture that has given us Ikebana – that ever-so-sophisticated art of arranging flowers – has also created an artful way of keeping trees and bushes from falling apart under the weight of snow.

When you consider, that every one of these trees is wrapped and strapped by hand twice a year - putting them “to bed” in the Fall and getting them “undressed” in the Spring – you realize just how much the Japanese people treasure their nature.

We are not just talking about specimen trees in botanical gardens or public parks. The artistry of straw wrapping is seen everywhere where there is a caring gardener, protective of his azalea bushes or pine trees, be it in a private garden or alongside a public building. The azaleas get wrapped horizontally, so the snow does not crush them asunder. Sometimes they get an additional top layer of woven straw mat. The major branches of the pine trees are held at a strategic point by rope and this tope is then strapped to a central pole.

And in order to force the bloom of early peonies, little huts are built around the plants, oriented to catch the early Spring sun while protecting them from chilly winds.

Croatia: Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic

zda — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 13:54:43 +0000

If you are in a hurry, you can see Dubrovnik in 30 minutes and check it off your UNESCO World Heritage sites on top of that. That’s how long it takes to walk at a leisurely pace the 400 meters of its main street, the Stradun, from the Pile to the Ploce city gates - the two entrances to this charming, entirely walled city dating back to the ancient Greeks. But you would be missing so much!

Nowadays, visitors can enjoy the splendid Rector’s Palace while listening to a concert in its beautiful atrium, or walk along the top of the city walls with gorgeous panoramic views over the sea and little islands ... but please, do yourself a favour and do not come during the Summer months. This is when approx. 8,000 and more cruise-ship tourists per day (!) tromp through – think of rush hour at Grand Central Station in New York or the Ginza in Tokyo – in easily 30+ degree blazing sunshine and you get the idea.

Dubrovnik’s fascinating history goes hand in hand with the ebb and flow of the sea and the many peoples who wanted to control the natural port. Illyrians, Ostrogoths, Turks, Venetians – even Napoleon wanted to own this strategic location. But it has kept its own identity over the ages.

Dubrovnik was an independet republic – called Ragusa at the time - since the 13^th century. It codified Roman laws and local customs and was considered very advanced for its time: it introduced medical services for its population in 1301, established a pharmacy (still in operation to this day) in 1317, abolished slavery in 1418 and built a 20 kilometer water supply system in 1436. Through its strong fleet, diplomatic ties and apt trading, Ragusa was one of the richest city states of the Adriatic.

More recently, in the mid 1990s, during the Homeland wars after the collapse of Yugoslavia, the siege of Dubrovnik by the Serbs has left many wounds that have not yet fully healed. The new red-tiled roofs over most of Dubrovnik attest to the vast damage of the attacks. But it is easier to put on a new roof than to heal a heart. Thus it is to be seen as a gesture of reconciliation through music and culture that the Belgrade Philharmonic, under the baton of the world famous conductor Zubin Mehta, will perform for the first time in Croatia since those belligerent times on August 27, 2011, as guests of the Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival. Surely it is not a coincidence that Mo. Mehta chose the lovely duett “La ci darem la mano” – “Give me your hand” - from Mozart’s opera “Don Giovanni” to mark this occasion, to be performed by a Croatian soprano and Serbian baritone.

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Estonia: a frightening experience in Tallinn’s KUMU museum

zda — Sun, 10 Jul 2011 16:35:22 +0000

The KUMU contemporary art museum in Tallinn, Estonia, is one of those iconic buildings you don’t forget: clean lines, generous spaces, windows that catch as much light as possible. No wonder Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori’s design won the prestigious European Museum of the Year Award in 2008. So whenever I visit Tallinn, I always make a point of visiting the KUMU.

As part of this year’s European Capital of Culture program, I was especially intrigued with the “Gateways – Art & Network Culture” exhibit (until September 15, 2011, with the support of the Goethe-Institut). But I had no idea I would be frightened by some of the exhibits I saw: Not frightened in the sense of fear of my life, but in the sense of being met face to face with digital realities of today. Of course I use the internet, can’t think of life without it. Of course I am “careful” and think that I adhere to safety and privacy rules, but after seeing these exhibits, I realized that privacy as we knew it back in the 70s or even 80s is long gone. Big Brother is here to stay. Let me explain by describing the one “artwork” that really did it for me, and I quote its creator and artist, the Estonian Timo Toots:

“Memopol-II (click on the link for a virtual tour) is a social machine that maps the visitor’s information field. By inserting an identification document such as a national ID card or EU passport into the machine, it starts collecting information about the visitor from (inter)national databases and the Internet. The data is then visualized on a large‐scale custom display. The collection panel also shows the portraits of the visitors from their ID card.

The Cyrillic spelling of the installation’s name refers to George Orwell's concept of Big Brother from his 1949 dystopian novel 1984. Over the past decades, technological means have transformed the surveillance of society. When surfing on the Internet, paying with an ATM card, or using an ID card, people leave their digital traces everywhere. Internet and social networks gather and provide a great deal of personal information, and a person’s profile is no longer constituted by his or her physical being alone, but also by the person’s digital information, over which he or she sometimes has little control. Background checks through Internet search engines and social network sites have become routine when we meet somebody new or apply for a job. Memopol-II enables us to make a thorough background check of ourselves, mirroring back to us all the data about us that is accessible via the Internet.

Estonia is well ahead of other countries in governmental data collecting, storing citizen information online and making it accessible to different degrees to an individual person and to government agencies. It is a convenient means for electronic identification and for making various transactions by inserting it in to the different ID‐card readers. The harmless looking electronic card readers seldom bring to mind thoughts about malevolent third parties who might have unauthorized access to the protected information. By means of Memopol-II, Timo Toots tests either our trust or paranoia toward the machines that read the information.” A German friend of mine introduced his German driver’s licence into the Memopol. While not all the fields came up with information, it was astonishing that his Facebook connections and University records came up, along with basic information such as age, address, etc. Most surprising and disturbing: his projected date of death (using statistical averages for males of his age and country of origin). He was not pleased – he had 23 years to beat the odds.

Moving right along, there was the lovely digital Miss Maya Brush, a “homo virtualis”, a digital sculpture, right down to her virtual DNA, born February 4, 2011, the product of German artist Kirsten Geisler. Her pose and features are reminiscent of Botticelli’s Venus. Maya has a Facebook page and, to date, almost 900 fans: a fictional character who has stepped out of her digital world to interact with the media.

The artists Spanish Clara Boj and Diego Diaz have created the installation “Observatorio”, which visualizes the increasing density of wireless networks in urban spaces. In this case, wireless networks are registered within a ten-kilometer radius around the Kumu Art Museum and will be realized as a real-time projection in the museum. The otherwise invisible stream of communication is made visible. And it turns out to be very dense. Just because we don’t see something, doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.

On the lighter side, there is “Real Snail Mail”, where real snails are outfitted with an RFID chip containing a message. Should the snail come close to an RFID reader, the message is sent. It is up to chance and to the appetite of the snail if it wants to eat the salad leaf on the reader and thus have the mail sent. A subtle bit of whimsy by the British group boredomresearch.

A visit to KUMU is always worth it, you never know what you may find. And if for no other reason, a visit to the room with the “chatting heads” is always fun!

Japan: Endless views of Mt. Fuji

zda — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 22:16:15 +0000

Fuji-san (as the Japanese reverently refer to their iconic highest mountain) is like a little child – it demands attention: I am here, I want you to look at me, pay attention to me, to my moods, to my cloud hat, to the sun’s rays as they caress my cake-frosting top, to the wind as it whips around my almost perfect cone. It is easy to see why the famous 19^th century Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai created a wood-block series entitled “36 views of Mt. Fuji”. Since his time, Fuji-san has surely been the most depicted mountain in the world.

Although this was my fifth trip to Japan, it was the first time that I saw Mt. Fuji this clearly in the early morning without a wisp of a cloud, then with a little cloud hat forming on to the afternoon, when a cloud cover moved in and engulfede all 3,776.24 m (12,389 ft) completely.

After the devastating earthquake of March 11, it is reassuring to take a look at this webcam and see Fuji-san in its regal and serene splendor.

Japan: Adachi Museum of Art near Matsue

zda — Tue, 08 Mar 2011 16:51:37 +0000

The Adachi Museum is one of those pearls you find in the Japanese countryside. Easily reachable from Matsue, it is certainly worth a visit if you are interested in Japanese gardens and art, in that order.

Founded in 1980 by Adachi Zenko, a self-made merchant millionaire, garden and art lover as well as philosopher, Adachi Zenko started collecting Japanese art as soon as he could afford to. Today, the museum has the most important collection of Yokoyama Taikan’s paintings, as well as paintings by about 30 artists such as Sakakibara Shiho, Tomioka Tessai, Uemura Shoen and Terashima Shimei. There is also a charming section of art for children by six popular artists illustrating stories and fables.

But the main attraction is the garden. In true Japanese fashion, this is a landscape garden, where every stone, every bush and even the angle of the tree planting has been given detailed thought. One of the gardens has a planting of pines that would be bent by the wind in a natural setting. So, too, here in the protected garden. As a counterpoint to the sharp pine needles, the ground cover is soft moss.

The garden has been voted Japan’s best garden by the American Journal for Japanese Gardens for eight years running (2003-2008). Most of it can only be viewed through large panorama windows or, at best, from enclosed outdoor areas. An excellent place for contemplation and meditation, if it weren’t for the many visitors!

Japan: Totorri sand dunes

zda — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 16:51:05 +0000

When you think of Japan, sand dunes and beaches are not the first thing that come to mind. And yet, they do exist! Tottori, a small city on the West Coast, can boast to being the home to Japan’s largest sand dunes, stretching an impressive 10 km along the coast, at times up to 2 km deep. Fine sand, spectacular scenery, good swimming and some very hot onsen (hot springs), as well as fresh seafood (abalone is a local specialty) make for a great getaway break from city life in the summer. The area is also known for its juicy and fragrant pears.

In 1964, the Academy Award nominated movie “Woman in the Dunes” by Hiroshi Teshigahara was filmed on location here. Today, you can have a “Lawrence of Arabia” experience by riding a camel, or at least having your photo taken next to one.

Japan: Sapporo to Nagano on the Twilight Express sleeper

zda — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:27:28 +0000

Riding overnight trains must also be a special experience for Japanese. As I sit in the very comfortable and spacious salon car, with its linden-green upholstered sofas and oversize panoramic windows, the merchandise cart comes along. The attendant hands out a menue-like card showing all the items available, branded especially for the Twilight Express. A group of ladies practically pounce on the attendant with eager anticipation at buying a souvenir of their journey.

The luxurious dining car is being set up for dinner. The chef with his white top hat surveys his ingredients in the kitchen. The waiters stand at attention in their uniforms. Dinner is by reservation only and there is a gourmet multi-course Japanese or Western menu for 6,000 ($72 or 53 Euro) and another more elaborate one at 12,000 Yen ($143 or 106 Euro), beverages not included. I opt for a modest Bento box at 1500 Yen in the “Pub Time” after 9 p.m.

My sleeping arrangements are not as comfortable as on the Hokutosei Express. For the same sleeper fare (9450 Yen additional to the JR Railpass), I have the lower berth in a 4-berth compartment. Thankfully, I am alone. There is fresh linen, pillows, blanket and a cotton yucata (robe) but no electric plug, so I am not able to charge my laptop. There is extremely little space for any luggage - how 4 persons with luggage are supposed to get it in here is quite beyond me!

The way to go is to get an "A" class compartment: Single or double and very luxurious, even with its own shower and toilet, armchair, small desk....

Although the train attendants are forthcoming and helpful, it does not mask the fact that they barely speak any English. Thankfully, they have an FAQ list in English and Japanese, making basic communication possible.

I had boarded the Twilight Express (to Osaka) at 14:05, got off at Naoetsu at 6:25 a.m., changing for Nagano. My journey was 1139 km and took 18 hours.

The Twilight Express is not a fast train, rather, it ambles thorugh a countryside, which is no doubt very beautiful in the summer. Semi-rural, we pass small towns and villages with box-like houses, their angled roofs telling us that this is a snowy area and the houses must be well insulated. Light industrial warehouses and lots of hot houses line the tracks. I had expected more evergreen vegetation. Instead there are practically only decidious trees.

This is my second time in the 53.85 km long Seikan Tunnel connecting the island of Hokkaido to the main island of Honchu. The fact that for 23.3 km you are actually 250 meters below sea level is not felt at all, there is no change in pressure – truly an engineering feat! (Compare this with the England-France tunnel at 75 meters below sea level for 37.9 km).

See my post from Tokyo to Sapporo on the Hokutosei sleeper train.

Japan: How to get to the Snow Monkeys

zda — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 12:10:59 +0000

The journey to see the monkeys is half the fun, but involves some planning. Think of it as a day excursion and be sure to allow time. A snowy day is ideal because the chances of seeing many monkeys in the water are good – afer all, they want to get warm! On a nice day, they will most likely be out and about, not in the water.

The easiest way for tourists to get to the Jigokudani Monkey Park is taking the Nagaden company bus from the Nagano train station: Take the East Exit, walk downstairs to the bus terminal. The bus leaves from quay 3 or 4. It runs once an hour (10 past the hour), costs 1300 Yen one way and takes 40 minutes. Be sure to get a flyer with the return times from the driver.

If you want to go by train or car, consult your guide book, there are several options, but all seem to be longer and more of a hassle than taking this bus. All, however, involve walking the last 1.6 kilometers (about 40 minutes) to Hell’s Valley at 850 meters above sea level.

The Jigokudani Monkey Park is open throughout the year. From April to October the hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., from November to March 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Tips for the excursion:

Altogether you will be gone a good 5 hours departing from Nagano (40 minute drive, 40-60 minute walk, about 60 minutes with the monkeys, about 40 minutes walk back, 40 minutes drive back to Nagano).

If you need/want to have a snack or something to drink – and haven’t brought anything along - go to the gas station next to the Kanbayashi Onsen Guchi bus stop upon arrival to get yourself something to take up. Chances are the kiosk at the monkey spa is closed.

Be sure to wear good walking boots with a non-skid sole.

At the entrance to the park – you still have those 1.6 km to go – there are some heavy-duty straw rope pieces that can be tied around your shoes to help you not to skid. These are free of charge and hang on a branch just before the steps start.

The path is not secured by rails and, while not necessarily narrow, it is not wide, either. As it was carved out of the mountain side, it drops off steeply most of the way. On the map it is euphamistically called a “promenade”!

When I visited, the small kiosk at the monkey spa was closed. The only resting area was a rustic shack selling the entry fee ( 500 Yen per adult) and faded postcards. It also housed the restrooms and – at least the ladies – had a Western-style toilet with heated seat. A very welcome feature!

If you want to eat or drink something, bring your own. Several onigri rice cakes (the triangular ones wrapped in seaweed) would be just right now: a light (weight) and nutritious snack, easy to carry and consume. No tea or coffee is sold. There is only one vending machine, which may or may not be working.

Be kind to your good DSLR camera: If it is snowing or worse, raining, bring at least a small hand towel from your hotel to wrap your camera and lens in. Moisture and electronics don’t mix.

There is a great sense of comradery amongst the visitors, sitting on the tree stumps in the hut, trying to warm-up in front of a weak electric heater and communing with the old stuffed Japanese Serow goat on show before heading out again into the cold and wet. Let’s hope it stays this way for a long time to come and does not get replaced with some glitzy mountain resort!

Japan: A visit to see the Snow Monkeys!

zda — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 11:34:31 +0000

When the baby monkey gazed up at me from the safe folds of her mother’s warm embrace, well, who wouldn’t melt? Ever since seeing a report on TV about the red-faced Macaque monkeys enjoying the natural volcanic hot springs near Nagano, I had wanted to visit them. And now I was here, communing mutely with furry mother and child.

The story goes that an adventurous female monkey decided to go into the hot waters one winter. Or maybe she fell in? After all, wet water is not a natural habitat for monkeys. She must have communicated the pleasure of her experience to the others in her group because ever since then, these monkeys have been known to seek out the warm waters as a social hangout. Grooming and dozing are their main activities. When they have had enough, they come out, shake themselves and the dense fur quickly dries and insulates them against the cold.

The Jigokudani Yaen-Koen - which means Hell’s Valley – nature preserve was established in 1964 within the Joshin-Etsu Kogen National Park. The 200-300 monkeys living there are said to be wild, but this is a relative term: true, they are not caged and run around freely; however, they are fed by staff and have no fear of humans. In fact, you have to watch your step as you may be in their way as they race up or down a pathway. They are also very used to being photographed, with lenses and shutters practically popping in their faces a lot of the day. Nevertheless, they are wild animals and unpredictable, so a skirmish with a lot of screeching and chasing can and does break out occasionally. By and large, however, they are a peaceful lot and will leave you alone if you don’t encroach on their personal space.

There is no guarantee that the monkeys will be in onsen (hot springs). But on the day I visited it was snowing lightly and there were about three dozen monkeys enjoying the waters and about as many visitors. Their seed lunch had just been distributed, so they were actively picking through the snow for food.

By the warm flowing river, a plastic pipeline had been laid (to feed the pool) and it was warm, too. Predictably, the pipeline was appropriated by the monkeys as a “heating pad”.

Altogether I would say that the humans behaved as well as the monkeys: each respected their space and went about their business – the monkeys enjoying their hot spring and grooming, the visitors quietly photographing and filming them. A perfect symbiosis?

Click here for a live webcam of the monkey spa.

See also my post about getting to Jigokudani Monkey Park.