Garry is an indisputable authority on liloing the Colo River. He has a real sense of the place from his many trips over the last twenty years. He seems to know every bend, every set of rapids, and what follows is worth reading for any intrepid adventurer wanting to experience the Colo River.

Introduction

Anyone who has experienced liloing (paddling in water on an air mattress), kayaking or hiking along the Colo River and through the Colo Gorge will no doubt have a story to share – of beautiful scenery, wildlife, bushfires, floods, drought, fatigue, injury, “Colo River Itch”, air mattress blowouts, kayak rollovers and the big bass that got away. During my adventures along the Colo River I have experienced plenty.

I remember the first time I entered the river having absolutely no idea what to expect. Had I entered the gorge with anything but an open mind I would surely have found myself in some sort of trouble, just like a handful of people do every year. Over the years this has resulted in things being left behind and I have noticed the remnants of lilos, inflatable rafts, tractor tubes, paddles, buried rubbish and other paraphernalia polluting the otherwise a near pristine Colo River. It is for these reasons I would like to share my experience and help those who would like to undertake such a journey to be safe, full of enjoyment and adventure, be better prepared, and keep this wilderness clean and in its natural beautiful state.

Common Mistakes

One of the most fundamental mistakes made by people who travel through Colo Gorge is underestimating the time needed to complete their trip. This has resulted in needing to be rescued or having to walk out in the dark or a day or two late. Trying to meet a pickup often leads to fatigue and injury soon follows. After many repetitive hours on the river, members of the group start arguing as to what they should or shouldn’t do. In the end the trip becomes a nightmare and their adventure gets remembered for all the wrong reasons.

Another big mistake is being under-prepared for the trip. This is not necessarily due to negligence but merely inexperience of the Colo Gorge. Should I buy a new air mattress for the trip or just grab the old one from the cupboard? What kind of sun screen do I take? Should I wear Volleys or hiking shoes? What about a wetsuit? Should I take a tent or a tarp? There are many questions to ask yourself while preparing your trip but it’s hard to know all the answers and impossible to know all the questions you need to ask yourself. Even with my own experience I am still learning and improving on every trip.

Another mistake often made is inviting too many people and not knowing the friend of the friend who is also invited. The more people, the longer it will take. Remember you’re only as fast as the slowest person.

Which Section to Paddle?

If it’s your first experience of using a lilo or kayak, I recommend an introduction paddle starting from Bob Turner’s Track and finishing at Upper Colo Reserve or Upper Colo Bridge. This trip is challenging enough to get a feel for the Colo and it can be completed in a weekend with an early start. Don’t be fooled into thinking a kayak will be quicker. If there is plenty of water then yes, but if the water is low, you may be walking in shallow water for the majority or the trip.

For those who are more experienced I recommend starting from Canoe Creek and finishing at Bob Turner’s Track. If you have more time you can continue down to Upper Colo Reserve but from my experience you will be content to walk out at Bob Turner’s Track (though it is a long uphill walk with heavy gear). This trip is not for the half-hearted. But it is for those with liloing and kayaking experience, have done their homework and are well prepared and physically fit. For liloing allow 5-6 days and for kayaking allow 4-5 days. Chances are you may come out earlier by a day or two but at least allow yourself this amount of time for the trip to be completed. There are other options for liloing or kayaking on the Colo River but I will give information for starting from Canoe Creek, though the information provided can be used as a general guide for all trips along the Colo River.

Getting There

Car-pooling is best. Leave one car at the end of Bob Turners Track, and take another car to the starting point at the end of Grassy Hill Fire Trail (Canoe Creek Track). It’s best to put your keys in a sealed bag and hide them under a rock in the bush near the car rather than risk losing or getting them wet in the Colo River. Make sure everyone knows where you hide the keys in case of an emergency.

Getting Out

If you need to call somebody to pick you up there is a Public Phone at Colo Heights Service Station, which is located on the Putty Rd, 700m south of the start of Bob Turner’s Track. From the river, it’s about a 3.5km walk out along the track and altogether about 7kms to the service station.

If you exit the river at Colo Bridge (Putty Road ) you can call a taxi (public phone is located out the front of the caravan park (currently closed) north of the bridge) or hitch-hike. Both options aren’t very reliable.

Details of hiking in and out can be found here:

Starting Point: Canoe Creek

Finishing Point: Bob Turners

Group Size

A group of 4 is good, anymore and may be too many. In the event of serious injury or sickness and having no PLB, one person can stay with the injured or sick person and the other two can go for help.

Equipment

The equipment I have used is not necessarily the best but is what has worked for me in the past:

Air Mattress (Liloing)

Only use a new mattress and test it before your trip (normally navy blue on one side and red on the other; can be bought from general camping shops). After many days of shooting rapids the corners of the mattress can wear. Before commencing your trip it’s best to rub silicon into the corners of the mattress including the corners between the pillow and bed. Make sure the mattress is dry. Sikaflex is best but if not available, Selleys Roof and Gutter is next best. Don’t use Selleys All Clear as it tends to peel off.

Take one spare mattress per person or one spare for every two people. If you find yourself without a mattress it will be very hard to walk along the bank. If the water level is low you can walk parts of the river but this can be tiring too.

The air mattress can be used as your bed mattress at night so it’s a good idea to dry it out before sleeping. In summer the mattress will usually dry out quickly in the sun. If you run out of sunlight dry your mattress near the fire but not too close. Only one side needs to be totally dry. Ensure you take a repair kit for the air mattress.

Kayak (Kayaking)

My personal choice for kayaking through Colo Gorge is with the Sevylor SK100 or an older model. These kayaks seem to be able to take a battering.

I strongly advise not taking fiberglass or plastic canoes or kayaks as there is a good chance they won’t be coming out with you. They are too rigid and will more than likely get stuck, flip and take on water. Trying to recover your vessel when full of water with the current applying pressure and pushing it hard against rocks or trees will make recovery near impossible. The logistics of getting a rigid canoe or kayak down Canoe Creek Track is very difficult. Many years ago I saw an abandoned canoe half way down. The track was far too steep to manage a heavy canoe. Starting from Bob Turner’s Track is a better option if you insist on taking a rigid vessel but still is high risk for the first few kilometers on the river

Footwear

I have found the best footwear for liloing to be aqua or reef shoes without the split between the big toe. I recommend reef shoes that stop just above the ankle. Before setting off each morning wrapping duct tape (a wide grey tape can be bought from most hardware shops) around the ankles (firmly but not too tight) with half the width covering skin and half covering the top of the aquatic shoes. This prevents sand getting in. It works very well. Hiking shoes and Volleys will accumulate sand and will result in having to stop many times to remove the sand. One advantage of wearing aquatic boots is you don’t loose your shoe when your feet sink in soft sand (sometimes as deep as your thighs). If you do decide to wear shoes make sure to wear thick socks and make sure the shoes grip well on wet rocks. I recommend Volleys for their grip.

Clothing

I normally wear a long-sleeve surf-rash or long-sleeve thermal top, quick drying long board shorts and a broad-rim hat. I cover any exposed part of my body with SPF30+ sun screen. I have never worn a wetsuit but some advantages would include: protection from knocks against rocks, providing warmth in bad weather, and stopping March Fly bites. I only carry one change of clothing and try to keep them dry for the whole trip.

Shelter

In the past I have used a lightweight fly (nylon tarp) for shelter. It works well except in times of thunderstorms and when the rain blows under. More recently I have started using an ultra-lightweight tent. Sandstone caves can be found throughout the gorge and can be used for shelter but you will need to keep a look out for them.

Lunchtime in a large cave.

Sleeping Bag

A synthetic lightweight sleeping bag is good – it will retain warmth if it happens to get wet. Down sleeping bags are great for their size to weight ratios but need to be kept dry. This can be achieved by placing in its own dedicated dry bag. If there is some room left, pack it with your dry clothes as well.

Backpack

When it comes to liloing I don’t have much experience with taking a conventional backpack along as I have always used a set of custom made dual PVC watertight pipes with a screw on caps attached to a plastic backpack frame. This then floats in the water and is pulled along using a leg strap. This device has several drawbacks which include the rubber seal becoming dislodged without knowing and the PCV pipe caps cracking if hit hard on rocks, both causing water leaks. Therefore I wouldn’t recommend making.

Illustration of PVC pipes from Blair Paterson’s Wet Volley’s and Soggy Tea Bags

I would recommend using a 50ltr backpack with all the contents sealed in lightweight dry bags. Separate clothes, food, sleeping bag and take some spare bags. Waterproof backpacks are best but even then I would use dry bags inside just in case you get a tear.

With kayaking, in addition to the backpack a tough dry bag is handy to have attached to the front of the kayak for things like camera, food, etc. Again it’s best to use dry bags inside the larger dry bag in case of a tear. Tears normally occur when the kayak had flipped and the bag is dragged over rocks.

Food

I separate food into daily packs and sealed within zip-lock bags. This makes for easier organization and storage, and ensures you have your estimated amount of food for each day.

Take carbohydrate-enriched foods. Liloing or kayaking along the Colo River can be strenuous and you need to keep your energy levels up by eating appropriately. Chocolate tends to melt. Muesli bars, nuts and dried fruits are all excellent foods to take as you can munch on the move.

Hydration

Drinking untreated water directly from the Colo River is not recommended though I have done it without becoming ill but a friend has not been so lucky. There are small creeks which run into the Colo and are safe to drink from. I generally carry 2 x 750ml water bottles. It’s better to carry two bottles instead of one large bottle just in case one gets lost or damaged or stolen by a goanna; yes a goanna. I also fill one of these bottles with powder drinks such as Gatorade.

Cooking Utensils

A small lightweight billy set is ideal for boiling water, pasta, noodles and a cup of tea etc. A lightweight cutlery set is also good. If you plan to fish I advise taking foil to wrap the fish you’ve caught for cooking on the fire. A gas cooker is good and convenient but adds to the overall weight. I normally take a lightweight gas cooker.

Rubbish

What goes in must go out! Rubbish should not be buried or burnt as this will pollute the river. Try to avoid taking canned food. I have found the best way to manage rubbish is to place it in re-sealable plastic bags and compress and wrap tight with duct tape. If using aluminium foil to cook fish, after eating it’s best to remove any leftover fish and lightly burn the foil until crisp. Then compress and place it in a zip lock plastic bag.

Maps and GPS

I recommend taking a Global Positioning System (GPS) as well as topographical maps and a compass. A GPS should not be relied on alone.

Topographical maps to cover from Canoe Creek to Bob Turner’s Track are:

• Colo Heights 9031-1-N
• Mountain Lagoon 9031-3-S

If continuing on down to Colo Bridge (Putty Rd) include map:

• Lower Portland 9031-2-S

Topographical maps to cover the Wolgan and Capertee Rivers (which flow into the Colo River) are:

• Mount Morgan 8931-1-S
• Six Brothers 9031-4-S

All the maps mentioned above should see you through the gorge.

Other Necessities

These days there is no real excuse for not taking a Personal Locating Beacon (PLB). These can be bought from most camping shops. Police stations near national parks or remote areas often have PLBs available to use at no charge. PLBs are available from Windsor Police Station which is open 24 hours. Ph: 02 45874099

Mosquito repellents are good for the nights when the mossies are out in force. It’s also good to use when the March Flies are biting your legs while paddling along. A combined repellent and Sunscreen is good but I have found it irritating when applied to my face. Don’t be fooled to think a thin rashy will protect you from March Flies. They do manage to sting through the clothing.

March Fly

A first aid kit is important but what you leave in or take out is personal choice. Mine consists of Elastoplasts instead of band aids (band aids tend to fall off when wet where as Elastoplasts won’t), a bandage, a safety thermal blanket (for if the weather turns cold or your sleeping bag is soaking wet), a packet of pain killers, anti-itch or allergy cream would also be handy to take. As I mention at the beginning of this article of the ‘Colo River Itch’. This is when a rash develops (only when liloing) on your thighs, bottom and belly, normally contained within your shorts but may spread up to your chest depending on severity. I’m not too sure what causes it but I suspect it’s a combination of something in the water and laying on a lilo for many hours each day. The best cure for this is to dry off and stay out of the water as long as possible.

Brown Tree Snake

Campsites

Setting up camp on the sandbanks is always nice but in times of thunderstorms, extra care is needed so you don’t float away during the night from floods. In the Colo Gorge this is entirely possible. Two of my favourite campsites are at the confluence of the Wollangambe and Colo Rivers next to the big rock, and the other is just below the perennials (King Rapid), a half-day paddle downstream from the Wollangambe River. When the water levels are up these two sites may be underwater. The only official campsites are at the bottom of Bob Turner’s Track and thereafter at Colo Meroo Campground and Upper Colo Reserve.

Shelter at Meroo

River Levels

The Wollemi NP covers 492 220ha and the majority of its rivers and creeks run into the Colo River. Some of its contributories start beyond the national park. The potential for fast rising floodwater is real and it’s best to check out the weather forecast before commencing your trip.

Current Colo River water levels can be found here: http://www.bom.gov.au/fwo/IDN60233/IDN60233.563033.plt.shtml

It’s a good idea to contact Hawkesbury City Council to find out about current water levels as the water levels provided may not be accurate. Ph: 02 4560 4528 or 02 4560 4647

King Rapid in Colo Gorge

Water levels around 1m are good for liloing and around 1.5m for kayaking. The higher the water level means more dangerous conditions and a lifejacket and helmet are recommended in these conditions. Personally I haven’t taken a helmet or lifejacket before as conditions have mostly been favorable but there have been times when I wish I had both at my disposal, especially on a trip in Feb 2012 where my friend Sam and I had to endure the Colo River in flood. It peaked around 4 metres which made conditions extremely dangerous. Portaging around rapids in these conditions was virtually impossible and also dangerous. You can watch the video by clicking on the link (Sam and Garry kayaking Colo River 2012) at the bottom of this page.

Conclusion

The Colo River is a hidden wonder which awaits those who wish to enter. Have respect for it. Let it be your teacher, your guide and your friend. Let the sun and the moon tell you the time and the stars reflect in your eyes. Sit on a rock and stay there for a while. Listen to the sounds around you. And may the Colo live long in your heart.

Contact

If you would like to ask any questions in regards to kayaking or liloing the Colo River, Capertee River, Wolgan River or Wallangambe River, please fell free contact me at: gsonter@theoutdoortype.com.au

Related Articles

Where the River Runs Wild

Sam and Garry kayaking Colo River

Shackleton Epic Team Arrives in Stromness

By David Rutter

The expedition that set out to recreate Shackleton’s epic journey has successfully completed their 19 day journey by arriving in Stromness on the island of South Georgia.

The journey was undertaken by team members wearing clothing of the same material and design of that worn by Shackleton and his team in 1916. The team attempted to follow the route Shackleton undertook from Anarctica to South Georgia Island to rescue the rest of his team stranded in Antarctica.

There were two parts to the journey; the first was an 800 nautical mile sea voyage from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island, and the second a trek across the island to the old whaling station at Stromness.

The sea voyage was undertaken by Tim Jarvis, Barry Gray, Paul Larsen, Nick Bubb, Seb Coulthard and Ed Wardle, in a replica of the original boat named Alexandra Shackleton. On the sea the crew had to weather eight metre swells, 50 knot gales, as well as the freezing temperatures typical of Antarctic waters.

After reaching South Georgia Island the team waited for improved weather before trekking across the island while the remainder of the crew made their way to Stromness by boat. During the trek the team got a good idea of what Shackleton and his companions endured, experiencing blizzards, and falling into crevasses over twenty times.

During the course of the journey Tim Jarvis raised funds for Fauna and Flora International.

]]> http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/02/14/shackleton-epic-team-arrives-in-stromness/feed/ 0 http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/02/14/shackleton-epic-team-arrives-in-stromness/ http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/theoutdoortype/~3/03C5fNH7ZOY/ http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/02/12/aerial-adventure-park-planned-for-cockatoo-island/#comments Tue, 12 Feb 2013 09:45:38 +0000 David Rutter http://theoutdoortype.com.au/?p=1162

Aerial Adventure Park Planned for Cockatoo Island

By David Rutter

Inspired by his autistic son’s enjoyment of aerial adventure parks in Great Britain, Marcus Jackson, creative director of Mighty High Pty Ltd, along with Vertical Innovations are proposing to build an aerial adventure park on Cockatoo Island in Sydney Harbour.

Positioned over the original slipways, the proposed park will feature a number of adventures off the ground, with the park’s design being inspired by the history of the island. It will include a replica of the HMAS Success – including a walk-though bow, and a rope climb structure that emulates the ship’s body. It will also utilise a refurbished crane from the island as an anchor for some of the activities. The proposed activities include ”high-ropes courses”, suspension bridges, parachute-style drops and zip lines, and there will be smaller scale climbs for children.

Cockatoo Island is a great camping spot in the middle of the harbour, and holds the occasional festival, however there is no attraction currently that attracts visitors during the week.

The environmental impact of the works is planned to be minimal – almost no excavation is required, the park’s infrastructure can be easily deconstructed and removed, and solar technology is incorporated into the design.

APP Announces Halt in the Clearing of Indonesian Rainforest

By David Rutter

Sinar Mas Group’s Asia Pulp & Paper (APP) have announced that they will be halting the clearing of Indonesia’s tropical forest and
peatlands to allow an assessment of their conservation and carbon values.

APP runs two of the worlds largest pulp mills on Sumatra, Indonesia, producing pulp for toilet paper, tissue paper, copy paper and packaging that is sold worldwide. APP and its suppliers have been responsible for clearing more than 2 million hectares of rainforest on Sumatra since operations began in 1984, pushing the island’s tigers, elephants and orang-utans into critically endangered states.

Tales of a Three Year Old Train-Spotter

Story by Blair Paterson

To my fellow Editors

The Outdoor Type
C/o www.theoutdoortype.com.au


Dear Garry and Dave Esquires,


It has been some time since my last correspondence but I trust this letter finds you well, and feel I must write you both to tell of Sam’s latest expedition as a worldly three year old with a particularly unyielding penchant for trains – that most noble and regal rolling-transport medium.


With his support crew again in tow this adventure was so jam-full of twists and turns the likes of which I must convey with great haste and detail.


The day was bright, sunny and luminescent when Sam donned his black Converse sneakers and showed his usual rebuttal at the prospect of applying sunscreen. The crisis was hitherto appeased, thankfully, as we packed our rations of gingerbread men, bananas, sultanas and hot tea into our dilly-bags.

Our adventure was ready to proceed and the door was flung open to a world which lay akimbo at Sam’s feet.


It was not long, my trusty mates, before we heard the whining honking squeaking sounds of the good old trains a block away. The smell of sparking electricity and diesel soot drew us ever-closer to our day’s purpose; Sam’s step quickened; he let out a shriek of excitement as we downed the laneway towards the rails.


“TRAIN!” he exclaimed like he was on the precipice of some great otherworldly discovery, “TRAIN! TRAIN!!”


“How many trains will we see today?” I dutifully asked, but there was no time to reply because Sam saw our silver quarry streak across the cityscape in front – the 10:51 Intercity Express bound for Central.


The answer was “One train,” and there were surely more to follow.


Once at the end of the laneway, with the many metal ribbons of the busy Western Trunk Line in full view, Sam took heeds and sought my assistance to sit him on the column of an old brick fence so he could survey his surrounds. At which time a Tangara and two Millenniums crisscrossed in quick succession.


“Four trains,” Sam said, right hand up, fingers ready to be risen, “Let’s count: one, two, three, four.”


While trains were the main subject of our adventure there was still time to explore other features. And as another Tangara trundled by, Sam felt it time to push on. He had seen manholes and service hatches before, and he knew some wobbled whence jumped upon. So once off the fence he set into a goodly gait down the street adjacent the track in search of such a cheerful anomaly, dancing effervescently on every lid along the way.


“I saw five trains,” Sam reiterated, but as he did we were both befuddled to see the Indian Pacific roll past pulled by two blue diesel locos straining hard on their tow to keep the long assemblage of carriages underway. Sam yelled and jumped on the spot so high he nearly lost his footing.


We stopped and set up camp on the footpath outside a closed hairdresser shop. We needed to fortify ourselves for all that happened to date so I reached into my dilly-bag, broke out a gingerbread man and handed it to Sam. It was not long before he ridded the brown biscuit of its shiny Smartie buttons and thence devoured it by limbs then head then torso as I supped my tea now at an exquisite drinking temp.


Lucky we were pensive at that moment, because down the street Sam spotted five irate minor birds swooping two irate magpies swooping a poor possum lost in the middle of the day, languishing in the middle of the street, its nocturnal nuances clearly out of whack with the trauma with which it was beset.


My friends, there was naught we could do for the sorry beast which was badly injured, but to high-tail to the vet hospital down the street. Sam is a humanitarian I tell you, but he is also a man thorough with his undertakings. Not only did he want to seek hospice for the animal, he also had his train ledger to keep intact – the number of which had reached double figures.


“Let’s count: one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven.”


We entered the vet and the waiting room. To my right an old cocker spaniel looked up before sinking again to its jowls, its master nonplussed with my actions. A moggy-cat showed little distain to my left as a bitsa dog scratched a bald knob of skin on its rump. And a cockatiel sat somberly on a bearded man’s shoulder like it was at a dentist instead of a vet, regardless of having no teeth. Sam summoned me forward to the counter whilst he studied the sun-faded pet toys hanging on a nearby display.

“I saw eleven trains,” he said with great conviction to a purple rubber bone which emitted the dull wince of a whoopee-cushion when squeezed.


“Um, excuse me,” I said to the lady behind the counter, “But there is an injured possum up the street.”


Before I could say anything more she was out of her seat and hurrying her colleague out the door to collect the animal. I garnered Sam from his studies and together we tried as best we could to keep up with the two vets as they strode up the street at a determined clip with towels and cage in hand.


The minor birds and magpies watched with blasé abandon from perches on telegraph wires overhead while the vets went to action. The possum bound out from under a parked car and made for a nearby tree but was an easy catch, its flailing hind leg clearly thwarting any possible escape.


All the while, another three trains whooshed by.


The commotion and excitement was too much for Sam, and as the vets caged the animal and walked off he thought it opportune to take stock, sit down on another fence and return to the job of counting trains.


“Daddy, I saw fourteen trains! Let’s count …”


We sat and ate bananas and sultanas as yet another seven trains passed. The count now exceeded twenty – the number twenty-one a veritable infinity which until then Sam had never before counted, but did so as ‘twenty-number-one’.


Sam cast his eyes down to his feet. “Look at all the ants,” he said. For a brief moment I considered counting the little marching insects with my expedition cohort but then I remembered our recent deeds with the possum and wondered how it was faring. So we packed our dilly-bags and forged back to the vet only to be informed that the injuries were too great and our little mate had been sent on a sleepy journey to the next place; the minor birds and magpies were left to cajole and harass the next poor animal which may succumb to such a misfortune in this hectic, higgledy-piggledy world.


We walked out of the vet with our chins down and our dreams diminished. But such feelings were short-lived. Because the railway was rumbling once more, this time with an old black steam train shiny and resplendent enough to accompany Thomas the Tank Engine on any number of his adventures.


I start singing a Kinks song:


Like the last of the good ol’ choo-choo trains,
Huff and puff ’till I blow this world away,
And I’m gonna keep on rollin’ till my dying day.
I’m the last of the good old fashioned steam-powered trains.


Our twenty-second train was an immediate highlight and our spirits were instantly lifted.


“How many trains now Sam?”


“I saw ‘twenty-number-two’ trains,” said he with all the conviction and dedication of a train-spotter far older than his short years.

And so our adventure turned and headed for home, where trains: ‘twenty-number-three’, ‘twenty-number-four’ and ‘twenty- number-five’ rounded out our bounty and the promise of hot chips loomed large as repose and recompense.


Thus I sign off with great salutations to you both and the prospect of many more adventures in the future. Farewell for now.


Yours faithfully,
Blair
]]> http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/02/01/tales-of-a-three-year-old-train-spotter/feed/ 0 http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/02/01/tales-of-a-three-year-old-train-spotter/ http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/theoutdoortype/~3/ugjQi1w3bV0/ http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2013/01/30/80-mile-beach-marine-park/#comments Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:08:14 +0000 David Rutter http://theoutdoortype.com.au/?p=1141

80 Mile Beach Marine Park

By David Rutter

The Western Australian government recently announced that it will be creating a 200,000 hectare marine park at 80 Mile Beach, between the towns of Port Hedland and Broome.

The formation of park is the first part of a larger plan to create of six marine parks in the North Kimberley region. Approximately one quarter of the park will be classified as a sanctuary zone in order to protect the native flora and fauna. The area is home to turtles, dugong and sawfish, and is also an important stopover point for shorebirds migrating from as far as Siberia.

Book Review: Pole to Pole and Extreme South

By David Rutter

Quite by coincidence, I was given two books with similar themes for my birthday. Both were accounts of expeditions that achieved world firsts, both involved Antarctica, and both teams met briefly in the snow and ice in Antarctica.

“Extreme South” by James Castrission and “Pole to Pole” by Pat Farmer are chronological accounts of efforts by Australians to better the world by the means they know best – pushing themselves beyond what is believed to be possible to achieve their goals. The books are similar in this way, and in others, as they present blow-by-blow accounts of the physical and emotional trials these men went through to achieve their goals.

The books have their own strengths and weaknesses – Castrission’s book is the easier read, and gives a better account of the costs, the preparation involved, and the complex and evolving relationship between Castrission and his partner in adventure, Justin Jones as they battle the elements, their bodies, and the clock.

Pat Farmer shows us the size of his heart and the strength of his determination as he runs from the North Pole to the South Pole, all while trying to be back home for his daughter’s birthday. His goal is not really about being the first to run from Pole to Pole, it is about raising funds for a clean water project for the Red Cross. In his account, Pat delves into his mind, and as a study in determination, and ultimately inspiration, it is a great read.

These qualities aside, the adventurers show great differences in their preparation. Castrission and Jones appear to be much better prepared than Farmer – they embark on a rigorous physical training programme prior to starting. Their dietary requirements are analysed, prepared and packaged. In some sense, Farmer seems to be winging it – he does in the end have the luxury of getting food along the way, but even so a little more preparation might have slowed the degradation of his body, and ultimately his performance.

This attention to detail also shows somewhat in the dry prose that Farmer has written – he passes through a large part of our planet, through many different landscapes, peoples and cultures, and he leaves the reader having barely described what he experiences along his route. As he himself admits, the book, like the run itself, becomes monotonous – it somehow reflects the journey in it prose, and ultimately tests the reader’s patience. Castrission on the other hand, is demonstrably awed by the landscape in which he finds himself, and gives the reader a great sense of this landscape through his writing.

Perhaps then, the great difference between the two books is that one is a description of the adventure through the landscape, and the other adventure through the mind.

Climbing Mount Fuji

By Matt Lindsay

Towering over the surrounding countryside on the border of Shizuoka and Yamanashi prefectures a little south of Tokyo, Mount Fuji is as iconic of Japan as sushi, shinkansen bullet trains or high-tech gadgetry. Known in Japan as Fuji-san, (san being the alternative reading for yama – mountain), this active volcanic mountain stands 3,776.24 m (12,389 ft) high.

Being such a high mountain, the upper reaches of Mt Fuji is covered in snow for much of the year. The hiking season is therefore mainly limited to the summer months of July and August. There are a number of trails leading to the summit. For those approaching from the south, such as from Kyoto or Osaka in the Kansai west region of Japan, the Fujinomiya trail is the most accessible. To get to the starting point for the hike take a bullet train to Shin-Fuji, (change from a Hikari to a Kodama Shinkansen at Shizuoka), then a bus from here to the Fujinomiya 5th Station.

Upon arrival at Shin-Fuji station go to the information counter where you can buy a bus ticket to Fujinomiya, arrange accommodation on the mountain (if you have not done so already) and receive up-to-date reports of the weather conditions on Mount Fuji. The staff are very obliging and friendly, eager to assist however possible in English.

The bus ride from Shin-Fuji station to the Fujinomiya 5th station is quite long, taking about two hours. After passing through suburbia the scenery becomes more rural, gradually transforming into forest as the road steepens. Nearing the terminal it becomes apparent just how popular climbing Mount Fuji is; at times traffic is brought to a halt to by cars lining the side of the road. It also becomes clear what lies ahead on the hike; the treeline soon ends giving way to barren, rocky terrain seemingly reaching to the sky.

One of the first things to hit you when you arrive at the Fujinomiya 5th station is the pong from the toilets. Word of mouth has it that Fuji-san is strewn with toilet paper, but on the Fujinomiya trail at least, this is not the case. Obviously maintaining toilet amenities on the mountain is expensive so you are expected to pay towards their upkeep when you use them.

The 5th station is your last chance to stock up on water or food at a ‘reasonable’ price before you set off. From here on the only way is up for you and prices . For example, your last chance for a beer on Mt Fuji at the 8th station will cost 800 yen (about four times the usual price), conveniently obtainable from a vending machine no less.

The ‘recommended’ length of time for summiting Mount Fuji via the Fujinomiya trail is 6 hours but if you’re in reasonable shape and keep yourself hydrated it’s possible to summit in far less time than this. Although steep, the rocky trail is easily navigable and no climbing equipment is required, (though gloves are recommended in case of slipping onto sharp rock). To alleviate the effects of altitude many people break their climb into two legs, stopping to sleep at one of the higher stations then arising in pre-dawn darkness and hiking the remainder of the trail in time to witness the sunrise from the summit.

Accommodation at the stations is basically just a Japanese style futon floor mattress in a shared room. (Ear plugs may come in handy if your neighbour happens to snore.) Meals are an optional extra. Not only is the interior of the stations austere, the atmosphere is too. Lights out is at 9pm or a ridiculously early 7pm if you elect to stay at the summit station. (Maybe the staff at the summit station had been up there or gone without a drink for too long – they were very stern, smiling only to say goodbye.) It is highly advisable to reserve a bed in advance during peak periods such as weekends and holidays.

Arising from your futon when the lights are turned on pre-dawn, you will be grateful for your bedding. No matter what the season it’s cold up high on Mt Fuji! Despite the darkness there is a buzz of activity outside, hikers’ headlamps illuminating the lunar-like summit crater, as everyone strategically positions themselves to witness the sunrise traditionally known as ‘Goraiko’ – the (honorific) coming of the light. Should the weather be favourable it is indeed a sight to behold, worthy of reverence and awe.

After the transcendental experience of the sunrise from the Mt Fuji summit, you’ll need to come back down. That means the long, steep descent back to station 5. Although going down the mountain takes far less time than going up, it is probably more demanding; the rocky terrain is unforgiving on the knees. Back down at station 5 you will be welcomed amicably by the staff, respectful of your effort and more than willing to help you select a souvenir of your Mt Fuji experience.

]]> http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2012/10/21/climbing-mount-fuji/feed/ 0 http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2012/10/21/climbing-mount-fuji/ http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/theoutdoortype/~3/3RkqaOx2PkU/ http://theoutdoortype.com.au/2012/10/10/driftwood-interspective/#comments Wed, 10 Oct 2012 03:49:00 +0000 Blair Paterson http://theoutdoortype.com.au/?p=1095

Driftwood

By Blair Paterson

View Gallery

A series of mosaics made from pieces of driftwood cross-sectioned into wafers and glued onto boards.

Camping in the Summertime

By David Rutter

It is warm. The summer air smoothed by the afternoon breeze scuttles across the ocean, down the breakers and the beach, over the dunes and into the campground. The eucalyptus trees roar as the breeze squeezes through their canopy, swaying the branches at alarming angles.

This breeze greets us as we fling open the doors of our car. The children – released from their feelings of motion-induced nausea, drowsiness and general boredom and frustration – launch forth onto our campsite and the campground. Their mission, as they see it, is to acquaint, explore and amuse. Adults may take minutes, even hours to adjust to an environment without brick walls, carpet and tiled roofs. For children it is only a momentary transition.

Our tent is our home for the next few days, and within minutes it is setup. Moments later the children are bouncing of its walls, and sand and dirt and leaves have found their way inside. Our small comforts – an esky with ice, camping chairs with cup holders, and perhaps a table are erected in the little shade we can find.

The beach, with its promises of sandcastles, swimming and sunburn beckons. Hats and sunscreen materialise, as do water bottles and sand toys. There is serious work to be done – sand to be moved and seashells to be discovered. Beaches can contain all manner of detritus, and much of it may be physically useless, yet mentally it contains a wealth in inspiration. The single shoe or thong begs the question of where the other might be. Where is the owner, right now at this point in time?

Our evening meal in the fading light is most relaxing, regardless of the incessant need to slap and swat at the flies and mosquitos. The heat wanes, the breeze softens, and the allure of slumber appears in the back of our minds. Despite all due care the distinct crunch of sand between our teeth accompanies our meals. Purposefully simple, the setting and circumstances enhance the flavours of this ad-hoc meal.

Sleep is not always easy, as sounds seem to be amplified when you are waiting on a little one to drop off in their new little dwelling. There is nothing but a thin layer of between us and the ambient sounds outside. Our neighbours, close and distant, share with the other campers the same sounds – food preparation, the imploring of children to eat, to wash, to brush teeth, laughter, the telling of jokes, the opening and closing of zippers of all manner. Later, the sounds give way to the occasional shuffling and shifting of sleepy campers, murmurs of couples exchanging their thoughts before sleep. The night animals come out, and the munching of leaves, the foraging of possums, and calling of the night birds sooth a sleepy head.

Before the first rays of sunlight, and the cacophony of cicadas fills the air, birds stir us all too early. Their calls start tentatively, and build into a glorious chorus – the hour though restraining us from acknowledging its true beauty. This call is a blessing, for during our daily lives it is missed, absent or muted at best. This early awakening means we have more hours to play. Breakfast is soon found, and the serious business of exploration and enjoyment is commenced. It is a day when only hunger and sleep marks the time.

This is camping. There may be bumps and scrapes that bring a few momentary tears. These are soon forgotten in the joy and excitement of a new birdcall, the gangly gate of an insect, collections of seashells, and the success of a regal sandcastle. These are the things we carry with the sand in our hair as we pack up and make our way back.