I used to think I was allergic to wool. Every time I used it, my fingers would itch and it felt very scratchy.

More recently, though I’ve found it’s not the wool: it’s the processing. Some processed fibers still are too scratchy, but the lesser processed fibers work just fine.  Good thing too, or I wouldn’t have been able to finish my latest project.

Here’s what’s left of two balls of handspun that wasn’t dyed. It’s from Brown Sheep Mills mill end roving, and is very soft to knit.

Homespun yarn natural colors

It was a real pleasure to knit this yarn that my sister spun.

I decided upon a lace scarf.

As you can see, the lace pattern isn’t very prominent:

Close-up of lace pattern

That’s because the handspun yarn “blooms” and fills in the spaces. It does, however, make a very nice warm scarf.

Seamen's Scarf with Modified Knitting Instructions

The original knitting instructions made a very wide scarf in this yarn. So, I ended up frogging a bunch of it, and re-knitting it in a narrower width.

And yes, knitting a swatch first helped me to decide the pattern, yarn, and needles worked well together.

The pattern comes with instructions on how to resize it. It’s The Columbine II Seamen’s Scarf in Stahman’s Shawls and Scarves: Lace Faroese-Shaped Shawls from the Neck Down & Seamen’s Scarves. This book has multiple levels of skill for the projects. I may just end up knitting several of the projects as I practice my lace knitting.

Yesterday’s mail brought me a treat:

Vintage knitting issue

I first learned about Piecework Magazine’s annual historical knitting issue while reading this Peacefully Knitting blog post about vintage knitting, which convinced me to subscribe. I called first to be sure they were still offering the historical issue with paid subscriptions. Which they were. Phew!

Historical knitting is intriguing. It’s interesting to get a glimpse of how our ancestors dressed and lived. While they’re now silent, their knitting can still give us insight into their lives. I grew up with stories of one of my great-grandmothers who supposedly kept all 12 of her children in handmade clothes, including knitted socks and stockings. She must have been very fast, very busy, or both!

Historical knitting is a new adventure, and I eagerly awaited my copy.

Which I’m happy to report did not disappoint me.

This issue of Piecework Magazine has patterns including: a new stitch pattern from Barbara Walker featured on the  cover. Inside there’s a treasure of articles on knitting. Perhaps you’ll also be drawn to the story of knitting in Jewish Lithuania during World War II. Once again, the resilience of the Jewish people and the “Greatest Generation” is inspiring. Today’s struggles with knitting become very small when compared to knitting in a forest while fighting — and hiding from — Nazis.

There’s a pattern based on a medieval mitten, and even an article on how modern theater companies use hand knitted items as costumes. There are more patterns and articles, which you can discover for yourself in the issue.

So, how do vintage knitting patterns help a modern knitter?

• Patterns can give insight into the lives of the folks who knit and used the finished piece.
• The stories behind the patterns — if you can discover them — can be inspiring, funny, or even just a brief respite from today’s news.
• Patterns can be used to create new knitted articles. One that reminds you of the story, or one to share — perhaps with someone for which it holds special meaning.
• Vintage patterns often use techniques not usually used by modern knitters. They can be a good way to practice something new, and to expand your skills.
• Patterns can be used as templates to create your own unique projects, like this example of a fleecy muff inspired by vintage knitting:
  

While I haven’t yet decided which project from this issue I’m going to knit first, I did finish my latest project:

More about this in the next post.

Meanwhile you can get your own copy of Piecework Magazine’s Fourth Annual Historical Knitting Issue here: Buy now.

I’m typing while wearing one fingerless mitten.

Why?

Well, my fingers were cold and I decided to experiment. I was curious to know how fast I’d notice a difference between the two hands, I decided to try just one.

Striped fingerless mitten

In less than 10 seconds I noticed an improvement in the hand wearing the mitten. Wow! What a surprise! I always thought they’d warm the hands but not the fingers. Now if I could just knit that fast.

While I like mittens and gloves, fingerless ones are better sometimes. For example, when you’re working at a keyboard, wearing regular mittens make typing impossible. Most gloves are cumbersome — at best. If your fingers don’t slip off the keys while wearing them, gloves are often bulky or just don’t feel right.

Fingerless mittens or gloves solve these problems.  They allow you to use the keyboard or mouse on a computer comfortably and don’t get in your way.

What’s the difference between fingerless gloves and fingerless mittens? While I don’t have an official answer from the Fashion Gurus, my take is that fingerless gloves have four openings for individual fingers. Their length can be as short as one or two rows, or go all the way to the fingertips.  Fingerless mittens, on the other hand, have a single opening for four fingers. And they’re definitely faster to knit!

While fingerless glove knitting instructions can be complex and best suited for an experienced knitter, fingerless mittens can be quick and easy. Yes, for beginners, too!

So what are the steps for knitting Easy Garter Stitch Fingerless Mittens?

1. Check the gauge. The gauge for this pattern is 3.5 stitches per inch in garter stitch. I used Caron’s One Pound Yarn in Sunflower (yellow) and Royalty (blue). It’s a worsted weight acrylic and knits up soft. I used size 9 needles.

2. Measure your hand. Using a tape measure or even a piece of yarn, measure around your palm above the thumb.

3. Cast on:

• 6.5-inch hand = 22 stitches
• 7-inch hand = 24 stitches
• 7.5-inch hand = 26 stitches
• 8-inch hand = 28 stitches
• 8.5 inch hand = 30 stitches

Knitting Tip: Check the size as you knit. It’s amazing how many times the knitting can vary once you actually cast on the rows.  Although mittens are fairly forgiving, it’s still easier to make adjustments early in the knitting rather than after the mitten is almost finished.

4. Knitting pattern:

Row 1: Slip first stitch as if to purl. Knit across rest of row. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 for desired length from cuff to top of mitten.

Change colors to add stripes if you wish.  I changed colors on the wrong side after four rows of blue and two of yellow:

Closeup of stripe pattern in knitting instructions

Slipping the first stitch as if to purl makes a slipped edge garter stitch, which I’ve explained further in my free video knitting instructions.

5. Bind off loosely with your favorite method. Break yarn.

6. Sew up the side seam, leaving an opening for the thumb. (Hint: Trying on the mitten after sewing up part of the seam helps you place the thumb opening, customizing its fit!)

7. Weave in the yarn ends.

While you can add color by knitting stripes, another easy method is called mosaic knitting.  You carry only one color at a time and can make interesting patterns with it:

Mosaic knitting fingerless mittens

This particular pattern makes a thicker mitten. Which is probably why I decided to make a pair!

Close-up of right side

My PDF pattern for Easy Two-Color Mosaic Fingerless Mittens is now available on Ravelry.

As a child, I learned to knit.

My knitting was a mixture of: what my mother taught me, what I learned from a knitting pamphlet, and my own invention. Amazingly enough, it worked. Actually, it worked quite well. That is, until I attempted circular knitting and lace.

They were much less forgiving than knitting, purling, and even cables.

Over the past few years I’ve been seeking new ways (for me) to cast on. In retrospect my original cast-on either never made it to the knitting manuals or I remembered it wrong. Which is probably why it was so difficult challenging.

When I learned a two needle cast on by knitting the stitches on, my heart leaped. Now I could cast-on by simply knitting stitches on the needle. How cool is that?

Recently, I found the long-tail cast-on in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop. Not only is it fast, it’s almost effortless to keep the stitches consistent and even. Once again, I’m in awe of Elizabeth’s knitting expertise.  Of course, she may not have invented this cast-on.

Its added bonus: with the cast-on, your first row of knitting is complete. Now that’s really clever!!

Knit side row 1 long-tail cast-on

Purl side long-tail cast-on

The pictures are a bit blurry, so the completed row may not be obvious. It’s there, though!

Here’s a video of the Long-Tail Cast-on knitting instructions.

And here’s a picture of a simple afghan square I made with the long-tail cast on:

Garter stitch square made with long-tail cast-on knitting instructions

Here’s the link for this simple afghan square’s free knitting instructions.

So, why are the long-tail cast-on knitting instructions popular?

• You can cast-on quickly.
• The stitches slip on and can be adjusted so all stitches are even without hours of practice!
• Once you finish your cast-on row, your first row is knit. So you can start with row 2: a real time saver!
• It can be started without the first stitch being a slip knot. Combined with the even stitches, this makes a very straight border.
• It’s easy to learn.

And yes, it’s already one of my favorite cast-on methods! My only question: Why didn’t I know about it before now?

Oh, and here’s my completed Log Cabin Afghan Square, and a second version.  It’s definitely faster to piece them for a quilt!

Completed Log Cabin Afghan Square

Log Cabin Version 2

And these edges are all bind-offs, because the cast-on is for the center square.

If Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop isn’t part of your knitting library, you should seriously consider it. See if you also find this small book a treasure of knitting information.

Have you recently had unusual challenges?

Maybe it’s been the economy. Your family. Or the weather.

So far this winter has been unusually cold here. It’s been 20 to 30 points below normal. Water frozen outside in the morning — and even the afternoon some days. This is the longest stretch of cold weather in this area in about a century. Of course, the cold weather brings it’s own challenges. Like, not one but two mice decided my dryer vent was a nice entrance into my warm house.

At least I hope it’s only two!

This week, my problems challenges became very small. The earthquake in Haiti dwarfs many concerns.

Crafters helping Haiti

If you’re  like me, your first instinct is to help. But how? And where?

Knitters and crocheters have a unique opportunity. Sure, we can donate money to appropriate places.

We can also donate our handiwork.

Ravelry has a new group that is looking for afghan squares. Knitted or crocheted. Sizes from 6 inches to 14 inches are being offered. The group even has links for knitting instructions.

I like the idea of making a square or perhaps a few and sending them. Imagine hundred or thousands of knitters and crocheters sending just one or two squares. And they can be made from your stash, or even leftovers.

The group, Hugs for Haiti, wants washable squares. It looks as though that’s the main requirement.

Here’s the first square I’m working on:

Log cabin afghan square in progress

Log cabin is one of the free patterns the group links to. I like log cabin quilts, and knitting a log cabin square reminds me how much rebuilding the Haitians need to do.

If you don’t feel up to making a complex square, make a simple one.

Free garter stitch square pattern

Garter stitch is easy to make a square. Its Rule of Thumb is two rows for each stitch makes a square. So, if you cast on 10 stitches and knit 20 rows you have a square. Or approximately. Usually I need to knit a couple of rows less than twice the number I cast on when I’m knitting with acrylic or cotton. It’s still easy to make a square.

For example, if you want to make a 12 inch square and have 4 stitches per inch: cast on 48 stitches.

4 stitches / inch X  12 inches = 48 stitches

Knit approximately 48 ridges, or 96 rows. In my case, it’s 44 or 46 ridges. Bind off.

A slipped stitch edging helps the square lie flat, and more square. Here are my video knitting instructions.

Join Hugs for Haiti now: you do need to be a Ravelry member to join. Ravelry is free and well worth your time if you’re a crafter.

Do you closely follow knitting instructions?

Okay, I confess: my tendency is to knit the “perfect” item.

The first time.

Up tight knitter? Who me?

Sometimes I follow the instructions exactly. And sometimes I adapt them as I knit. Following the knitting instructions exactly is not as important to me as the finished project.

Ideally, I can try on a project while knitting, making adjustments as needed. Finishing a big project only to decide it doesn’t look right or doesn’t fit quite right — and can only be fixed by copious ripping and re-knitting — is not my idea of fun. Too much like wasting time.

There are some projects, like Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Surprise Jackets, that defy attempts to fit as you go. At least that’s my experience.

Adapting the Adult Surprise Jacket knitting instructions

A few weeks ago, I started my first adult surprise jacket (asj) using hand spun wool.

Adult Surprise Jacket on needles

After completing two baby surprise jackets (bsj), I felt ready to tackle this project.  This link details my adventures with the knitting instructions for my first bsj.

I did the math, and decided to try the wider sleeves. I couldn’t find any examples of the wider sleeves, and it just “felt right.”  The wider sleeves added over 30 stitches to each row.

ASJ still on needles

Folded ASJ on needles

The surprise jackets are interesting and challenging simultaneously. I’m just beginning to understand how they are constructed as I knit.  Measuring seems to involve mostly math before starting — until you finish the increases.

This pattern is especially challenging to make adjustments as you knit. If you get partway done, it could be hard to change the size without starting over.  With long rows of knitting, that could indeed be frustrating.

Thankfully, I didn’t have that particular challenge.

What did I adapt?

1. When I completed the increases, I decided the sweater was long enough without the suggested additional rows. If you look closely you’ll see the mitered corner in the front ends at the bottom of the sweater.
2. Instead of adding sleeve length, I also decided I like the wider, elbow-length sleeve reminiscent of a kimono for working around the house, especially with a sweater underneath.
   

   ASJ knit with wider sleeve

3. I opted for an I-cord edge without buttons.So no buttonholes to calculate and no buttons to sew on!
4. I bound off the shoulder seams in a different color, and ended up doing some sewing to get it to look right.

With long rows requiring a 57 inch circular needle, it really doesn’t matter if the row is off by a stitch or two. Of course, it’s nice to have an exact count, sort of like winning at solitaire.

After some delays in the knitting which had nothing to do with the pattern, it’s finally finished!

ASJ Front knit with adapted knitting instructions

ASJ Back knit with adapted knitting instructions

Subscribe now to The Knitting Yarn to get your free knitting patterns.

One of my earliest Christmas memories is my sister and I receiving identical knit hats from my Aunt Gerry.  They were red, with a face on the back, lovingly hand embroidered for children. Even to the google eyes. Hey, we were toddlers and thought them very cool!

Christmas is a great time to relive happy memories—and to create some new ones.

Yes, it’s great to be able to make a scarf, mittens, or even a sweater for a loved one. Especially if they actually like it!

Sometimes, though, other problems challenges crowd out the knitting time.  And even the fastest knitter needs more than an hour or two to hand knit a sweater.

This year is one of those times for me.  Even decorating is challenging.  My tree is up, and the lights are on.  And you know, for the first time in many years, it’s enough.  I’m enjoying the lights even without any ornaments.

My Christmas tree with lights

Still, I like to add hand knit items to my Christmas—and that of those I love.

So, how can you easily create a hand-knit Christmas?

1. Knit some ornaments. They make a great addition to your tree, and can be a great way to use up leftover yarn, also being economical.  There are lots of free patterns on the Internet.  To get you started, try my free tiny mitten knitting instructions. Ornaments can even do double duty when you —
2. Knit a package decoration or even a package. Angels, stars, tiny stockings and mittens can be very cute on a package.  The recipient can enjoy them before the gift is opened, and afterwards they make a nice addition to their ornaments.  Small stockings can also be knit to fit a candy cane, roll candy, or lip balm.  A nice stocking stuffer or small inexpensive gift that still shows the recipient you took time to personalize it. Knitting Pattern Central is a great place to start looking for knitting instructions.
3. Knit dishcloths or washcloths in Christmas colors. They’re a reminder of the season, and even when not in use can make a kitchen or bath feel more like Christmas. They make a practical project for yourself, and a thoughtful gift for non-knitters.  Adding an I-cord border to some patterns is a quick way to add a second color. Cotton yarn at often less than $2 a ball remains economical, practical and easy.

Christmas dishcloths: Customizing knitting instructions using Christmas colors

Create your own ripple knit dishcloths with my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set.

When ready to bind off my first toe-up knee sock, I nearly didn’t.

The knitting instructions for my socks said to “bind off loosely.”  With other projects, I’d been able to bind off loosely using one or two tried-and-true methods. A sock was different.

No matter which method I tried, it just didn’t stretch enough to get it on around my heel, let alone over my calf.  I searched all my knitting instruction books without help.  None of them have toe-up sock, top-down hat or finger-down mitten knitting instructions.

In reviewing this, it seems to be a fairly common dilemma.  Socks need to be snug enough on the calf to not fall down, and the usual loose bind-offs, often aren’t elastic enough.

So, just how do you bind off loosely?

1. Knit more loosely as you bind off either by adjusting the tension or by substituting a larger needle for the right-hand needle. Neither gave enough stretch for socks.
2. Use a sewed bind-off, such as Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Sewn Casting-off  from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac.   While she suggested using it for top down sweaters, again it just wasn’t quite elastic enough.
3. Knit with an elastic bind off method.  An Internet search led to Slip Slip Knit’s Miraculous Elastic Bind Off Knitting Instructions. And voila, it worked!  The link even includes nice pictures.

This bind-off has now become one of my favorites. And I can hardly wait to try it on other projects.

Sprucey Lucy Knee High Socks

These socks were made with Wendy Knits’ Sprucey Lucy free knitting pattern.

For a great inexpensive reference for knitting, check out Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac. It’s full of projects for every month of the year, and manages to be both charming and informative.

Honoring all veterans of the U.S. Armed Forces and their families who also served.

Thank you.

Sprucey Lucy Knee High Socks

free pattern available from Wendy Knits.

"Baby" enjoying his new sweater

Follow-up to this post.

Participating in Wordless Wednesday.  Well, it’s almost wordless!