The Graphic Foodie

Introducing baby Graphic Foodie

2012-01-18T19:19:00.002Z

Just to let you know I'll be having a blog break for a little while to join the booming Brighton yummy mummy brigade. With lots to learn, motherhood is a bit of a shocker but normal service will resume when possible (as well as sleeping at night I hope).

Best thing is that The Graphic Foodie household has another mouth to feed!

On a side note I unfortunately had to have 4 nights in hospital. The aftercare was fantastic and god bless NHS midwives, staff and doctors but hospital food is worse than I ever imagined, mainly due to the fact it is made in Wales then shipped over to Brighton and reheated within an inch of its life. Nonsense. Thanks to (grand)mamma Foodie for coming in with brodo and tortellini, frittata and aubergine parmigiana to make me feel better. Mammas rock.

REVIEW: The Coal Shed, Brighton

2012-01-08T11:20:00.001Z

There's been somewhat of a buzz about this relatively new restaurant. The Coal Shed specialists in meat and fish cooked on their fancy Josper oven - an indoor charcoal barbecue, something of a novelty in the city. It's also no surprise with meat and coal and fire in the mix that The Coal Shed emulates masculinity both in its menu or decor. Think heavy industrial lamps and lots of wood. I like it.

The frequently changing menu has the likes of Jacobs Ladder sticky ribs, Steak and Oyster pie, Tartare, Hogget skewers and burgers. They of course have the whole shebang in steaks like Sussex reared Longhorn Cattle and with prices from £14-25, which are probably the priciest steaks in town. As well as a specials board, there is plenty of fish and even a few vegetarian options that span far beyond the mushroom risotto. You generally need to order sides, but these are generous and sensibly priced at just £2.

We ate very late and although the starters seemed the most enticing items on the menu, we headed straight for mains. I surprisingly ignored my carnivorous craving and chose the Gurnard Bream £14 from the specials board which arrived simply but beautifully on a board with a micro salad and lemon. I was expecting more of a Barbette flavour to be honest, but the bream was delicate and pillow soft and I wolfed down all of the crispy skin, something I never ever do. The Heritage Tomato salad I washed it down with was divine.

Mr. GF also chose from the specials and went for the Venison Burger with Juniper berries, £8.50. Served medium rare this looked really good. Surprisingly the juniper berries were whole and plentiful, so quite prominent in the burger if you crunched one under your tooth. Chips were fat and crisp. I personally would have been a little disappointed with the bun, a flimsy sesame example.

Wine list is decent and very flexible with most wines available as small or large glass, carafes or full bottle options. This I like and liked they had my wine of the moment, the Sicilian Fiano Mandrarossa.

Although desserts were tempting we shared a pretty decent cheeseboard, £7 and called it a night.

Overall I really liked the style of The Coal Shed and will defiantly be returning for a steak fix and probably a plate or two of the ribs. Although the pricier end for Brighton, the quality of the food seems to be up there. One thing is that the restaurant is quite small and tables even smaller. This is also a bustling restaurant and with so many hard surfaces the noise is quite something - the couple next to us were having an argument and I had no idea for the best part of it!

Syphon coffee at Brighton's Small Batch Coffee Company

2011-12-30T12:35:00.000Z

If you like your coffee you should really head down to the syphon bar at Brighton's fantastic Small Batch Coffee Company. Far from being a gimmicky punter pull in, coffee syphons have actually been around since about 1830 and create a rich yet clean flavour due to the stable temperature the process can maintain. But yeah, taste-aside, the chemistry style equipment is pretty cool to watch!

Now for the science part. Concentrate…
Using a very hip Japanese halogen heater, water is boiled in the bottom glass chamber which is then pulled up a tube to the top chamber as it expands. Freshly ground coffee (ground coarser than normal due to the longer brewing time) is then added to the water in the top chamber. It is carefully teased into the water with a spatula rather than mixed to bring out the best of the flavours rather than all of them. It is then taken off the heat and as it cools, the vacuum created pulls the coffee through a filter back to the bottom chamber. It's then decanted and left for a few minutes to open up the flavours. You can see a video of the process here.

Best bit is the prices are not far off a standard cup of coffee ranging from £2.95 to £3.50. The coffees they had on that day (these change on rotation) were India Balmaadi, Guatamala Finca Santa Clara and Kenya Gethumbwini Peaberry.

I really like Small Batch, they are a local family-run company, starting out as a small roastery, expanding into a little espresso bar and now have a couple of coffee shops. You may know how I feel about the identikit big boy coffee chains smothering the city, but with local heroes like this you don't need to frequent them. I particularly like the design of their interior with custom wooden stools, fat industrial lamps and slick vibe, somewhere I could easily pass the time nursing a cup or two.

For more details about Small Batch, their locations or to buy their blends visit www.smallbatchcoffee.co.uk
For a syphon coffee go to their coffee shop at MyHotel, Jubilee Street, Brighton.

Brighton Chrismas events and food gift ideas

2011-12-14T08:30:00.001Z

The Angel Food Kitchen (Part of the AF Bakery) offer cake decorating and edible gifts classes - handy for this season's baking. But a voucher for their French macaron or pastry workshop would also be on my list to Santa.

Perfect for the coffee lover in your life, Small Batch are offering intensive 3-hour Barista lessons (£150). The course works with typical home coffee brewing equipment and will also cover coffee origins and an introduction to tasting. Further 'advanced' course can be also be purchased and will see you qualified as a barista. Vouchers are available from Alan at Small Batch Coffee, myhotel Brighton.

It wouldn't be Christmas without a hamper would it? Thorne's Foods are offering 2 sizes, which they will tailor to your needs or you could choose your own mix of local treats. £35-£75. Thorne's Foods 39 Upper Gardner Street, Brighton.

For other foodie gifts from our locals, you can stock up at one of the mini markets at Brighton Station which are being held over the first three weekends of December. You'll find stalls from some of our best Brighton food companies like Metrodeco, Micarmo, Bonjour Breakfast, Suck It & Sea and Cave a Fromage. 3/ 4 December, 10 /11 December and 17/ 18 December from 11am - 7pm. Further details at www.brightonfoodfestival.com

You've got to go for an ice skate overlooking the Royal Pavillion. *In the voice of Greg Wallace* Christmas doesn't get more more Christmassy than this. When you've knackered (or shamed) yourself out you can chill out in the bar or visit the restaurant. Go with a gaggle of 8 mates or more and order their whole suckling pig, Prince Regent would sure be proud. Other decadent choice would be oysters or er, the fondue! Open til January 22nd.

Again, non foodie but spectacular and so very, very Brighton is the annual Burning Of The Clocks on 21st December. It's a parade of extravagant paper lanterns that are marched through the streets finishing on the beach where they are all burnt on a massive bonfire.

And if you've still to settle on a venue for some festive dining, check out my guide to alternative and classic selection in the city .

All images from respective websites.

Delia's Classic Christmas cake kit

2011-12-11T11:49:00.001Z

I have to admit, cake making is not one of my strong points. Italians generally are a bit crap at cakes - remember my wedding cake disaster? Give me a pasta machine and I'm away but the ten billion things that can go wrong in baking like oven temperature or types, too much or not enough mixing or air, the temperature of your eggs or butter, which way the wind is blowing, the phase of the moon...well all seems too much of a faff for someone who hasn't really got a sweet tooth.

Still, I was on the fence about Delia's Classic Christmas cake box from Waitrose, £10. Surely it would be perfect for ~~idiots~~ someone like me? Dry ingredients are neatly measured out for you so you only have to tip them in a bowl (along with additional ingredients like eggs, butter, citrus zest, brandy, decoration ingredients AND you will also need a 20 cm round cake tin, baking paper, string, paperclips, newspaper, oil).

Thankfully I had 4 years of art college under my belt as you first had to construct this. I have no idea what the newspaper is for.

The mixing was pretty straight forward and actually made for the least mess in my kitchen during a spot of baking which is a real bonus with this kit.

Delia did warn NOT to peek in the oven for at least 4 hours, which I duly obeyed as the instructions stated the cake would take at least that if not 30-45 minutes longer. However 4 hours seemed to be too long for my oven as the cake came out a little, er, dark. Well borderline burnt if I'm honest. I would say 20 minutes too long but that's the variation issue of everyone's oven.

Fearing dry cake (quelle horreur), I wrapped it up and fed it brandy for a couple of weeks hoping a good soak and the waft of booze from it would eliminate any scorched aroma.

Now for the pretty bit. Delia does a lovely simple (easy) decoration example that would take no time at all and looks really nice. I, however, decide to go for it despite having never properly decorated a cake or attempted sugarcraft.

P.s. people. When cake bloggers and experts say to use the fancy colouring paste to colour your fondant, take the advice. I ended up with a block of soggy intestinal pink icing after taking a punt at it with some liquid colouring I had. Not good. But I'm really pleased with my impromptu plan B using thin piping and silver balls. I even made a fondant bow!

I'm actually quite chuffed with the result (overcooking aside) and probably would not have got round to making one without the kit as Christmas cake seems a bit of a task. For those lacking a little confidence the hand-holding element is good and time saving beneficial as the fruits are pre-soaked etc. It's just measured ingredients at the end of the day but the step-by-step guide and online videos will soothe the inexperienced baker. However you do need to purchase quite a few additional extras and that can tot up so this vs. a purchased cake probably isn't value for money, but at least you feel like you are creating something.

Will update with a taste test when we slice this up.

I was sent the kit to review.

Alternative and traditional festive dining in Brighton

2011-12-08T18:04:00.005Z

Although Brighton has restaurants happily serving the full turkey shebang, we of course have to put our alternative slant on it (without having to resort to putting a Christmas dinner on a pizza - you know who you are!). Here are my picks for something a little different yet still decadent from Indian and Scandinavian festive menus to raw and vegetarian treats as well as some good ol' British warming food.

Aloka who specialise in botanical (raw/vegan) cuisine have probably the most alternative festive menu at their snow white restaurant with items such as a raw Mince Pie which translates to king oyster mushroom & prune ragout with ruby sauerkraut and hazelnut infusion dressing and Caribbean Christmas Pudding with mango chia pearl, maca bourbon vanilla ice-cream with lime and coconut crust. Think Saf but at a more wallet friendly cost. Now we have had a chance to get our heads around Aloka, this multi-use establishment has really found its place in Brighton. I was in there at the weekend for a rather lovely pregnancy massage at their day spa and the place was packed with diners in the cafe and restaurant.

Vegetarian favourites, Terre a Terre, have a special menu and I'm pleased to see that they have not let us down with their typically pun-tastic dish titles we have come to love from them like Baby Cheeses’ (Pumpkin verrine and beet terrine, with baby sheep cheeses’ soaked in caraway and dill, parsley and mixed pepper salt, served with star anise and scrumpy vinegar damsons walnut brittle crumble) and I Did It My Sleigh (Panforte pain perdu crammed full of pied de mouton mushroom ragout, served with roast rosemary parsnip potato pave, buttered sprout tops with sage and onion crispy, poached cranberries and big rich mulled Merlot sauce.)
Available from December 6th to January 6th.

Ah, any excuse for a visit to Chilli Pickle! Their festive menu looks divine with the likes of Banjra Venison, Goose MoMos, Crispy pork belly vindaloo and Parsnip Pakoras. Sad to see their amazing Venison Tandoori (in the pic above) I had the other year wasn't on the menu but I'm sure it will be fantastic regardless.

Or maybe you fancy something a little cooler and Scandinavian inspired? Northern Lights is probably the only place where reindeer is on the menu as well as dressed egg halves, Nordic Christmas ham, smoked fish balls and of course proper Gravadlax.

Although if you did want to stay classic this Christmas, you should really check out the following menus from restaurants who can always be relied upon for decent, local and solid cooking.

Due South has a lovely sounding menu with Whole Roasted Partridge with Bacon and Chestnuts and a twist on a classic with a Hay-Smoked Rice Pudding with Christmas Spiced Ice Cream.

The Gingerman Group will be serving a cockle-warming Oxtail and Kidney Steamed Pudding. Oh yes.

I've always liked Sam's of Brighton for their no-nonsense approach and I would be more than happy tucking into the Braised Blade of Beef, Creamed Potatoes, Curly Kale, and Braising Liquor.

Next up Brighton Gifts and Event guide!

All images apart from Chilli Pickle from respective websites.

REVIEW: BBQ Shack at The World's End pub, Brighton

2011-12-04T22:09:00.003Z

To find great food in a seemingly bog standard boozer in a part of town that is more Pound Stretcher than Phillip Starke would be a surprise. The design studio I work with has recently moved to the area (said to be the new Shoreditch... er, yeah) and unless you venture into the Laines you basically have the delights of Subway, Maccy Ds and a few questionable cafes.

So I almost spat my tea right out at the screen when I read Jay Rayner singing the praises of the Texas pit barbecue food being served literally round the corner, not in some chandelier dripped Brightonian "gastro pub", but in a proper, bonafide, sticky floor boozer. At the heart of it is chef John Hargate who is nothing short of a Barbecue champion with plenty of awards under his belt and a CV boasting work under some of our treasured celeb chefs.

This was too good to be true, especially in this carrot munching city. The menu had me hyperventilating – what to have? The ribs have become something of legend around town, but what about the 18 hour brisket, hot dogs, chicken or pulled pork washed down with piles of spicy rice, beans, chilli or mac and cheese. You can even have the Texan delicacy, the er, Armadillo Egg, a sort of sausage meat and bacon wrapped jalepeno stuffed with cream cheese.

I finally settled on the Hickory and Apple Smoked North Carolina Pulled Pork sandwich with homemade coleslaw and Sweet Apple BBQ sauce as my into to the BBQ shack. As I waited I could now focus on the surroundings which were as I expected but the boozers and diners offered an awkward mix of locals and middle class Hove yummies. That’ll be the Guardian readership for you, oh hang on that’s why I’m here.

Anyway, the sandwich arrived, served, how can I say this, "rustically" on Aunt Mildred's discarded crockery, this isn't a feast for the eyes by any stretch but one bite in and I would have been happy to dine on this at the dump. Heavenly, smokey, succulent porky goodness. Forget the napkins, I was going to have to have a shower after this, the BBQ sauce and coleslaw slip sliding around in the bun, down my chin, on my lap. Thank goodness Mr. GF and I had been together for 14 odd years because this ain’t no first date food! He was more than happy with his pork burrito but think he was kicking himself for not going with the ribs. Next time!

The only think I would change would be the bun, which when half saturated with coleslaw juice wasn't really up to the challenge of holding together the outrageous amount of pork filling it had, but really the BBQ Shack is all about the meat.

The BBQ Shack is available ~~for home delivery~~ or at The World's End Pub, 60-61 London Road, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 4JE. Update: it seems home delivery MAY not be available now (see comments), please call the BBQ Shack to check though on 01273 275757/07960 654 402.

REVIEW: Ockenden Manor, Cuckfield, West Sussex

2011-11-24T21:16:00.002Z

The thing with stars is that they look so pretty from afar, so twinkly, glamorous and enticing. People make wishes upon them, they even want to become them; film "stars", rock "stars" and er, soap "stars"...all sorts. Stars are special right? The fact of the matter is that up close they are just gigantic fireballs, full of gas and scary explosions. Not quite so glam.

Yet people elevate star-awarded restaurants, it makes them more special apparently, well certainly more expensive anyway. Sussex lacks a decent crop of Michelin stars, despite having some outstanding restaurants, and part of me has always wanted to find out if they really are worth their salt (and more on the salt later). This year, The Curlew and Ockenden Manor retained theirs, and The Pass at South Lodge, where you can see the chefs fiddling with your food on big TV screens, was finally awarded one too.

But tonight we chose Ockenden. Mainly because it's the closest one to Brighton, but mainly because it seems to have a stable, steady review history. Style-wise, Ockenden Manor touches a little on posh retirement home chic, exuding that comfortable, lived-in manor house feel with chintzy swags and comfortable armchairs bowing from years of affluent bottoms. Clientele-wise we were also by far the youngest couple there too.

You are invited to turn up a terribly civilised half hour earlier for canapes and drinks in either the bar area or the lounge, which were fine, although our canapes seemed to have got mislayed and I had to ask for them which made me a bit sulky. I was far more at home in the dining room, which in contrast to the rest of the place, has been redecorated in a modern-colonial feel, with good lighting and sharp lines.

(Do excuse the lack of photos. I was treating Mr. GF to dinner and I already felt a second rate citizen with my Ford Fiesta in the car park amongst the Astons!)

I started with some smooth Pumpkin Puree filled Tortellini, Chestnuts and Cubes of Pumpkin which was really quite tasty, beautifully presented and made the most of a lot of textures which I like. Being a pasta junkie, I wouldn't say the pasta itself was any better than the beautifully silky examples you get from any average restaurant back in the homeland, but not a bad example at all. Mr GF also followed with a pasta starter, his being a single sheet elegantly folded like a napkin and adorned with ceps and chicken oysters (my favourite bits of a chicken). Again this was a really successful dish, the pasta hugging onto the richness of the ceps and sauce.

For mains, we both chose the Balcombe Venison Saddle from down the road. I loved the tiny little Cornish pasty that was served with it which was an unusual but lovely little touch. Again more mushrooms with some tiny onions accompanied the venison which was cooked beautifully and cut into thin, delicate slithers.

Mr. GF made a good dent in the heaving cheese board and I went for a Hazelnut Macaroon which lacked a little lightness but was perfectly ok, just no Piere Herme. It was the odd choice of bananas stacked around the outside of the macaron that really took away any finesse the dish may have had.

Coffee & Petits Fours at an extra £5 a pop are worth a miss. I like a raised heartbeat after a good espresso but the one I was served wouldn't have disturbed a sparrow's composure and the petit fours arrived fridge cold and uninspired. Canapes were also more bar snack than star status - mediocre breaded fish things and tartare - yawn.

I would say that the food on the whole was good, really quite good, but sadly not memorable. One sure fact is that Ockenden Manor do not do revolutionary food. Like the furniture, it is solid, good quality and comfortable, and there is nothing wrong with that, just don't come expecting fireworks. The main issue however, with all of the food including the canapes, was that all of it was so dramatically salted. I have a really heavy hand with seasoning but good God did I really feel my blood pressure rise at this dinner and both of us woke up with pork scratching style toungues in the morning.

I was also surprised not to see more local wine on the menu as you have quite a few Sussex vineyards close by, but I suppose the mark upon dusty French bottles is more lucrative for them.

Dinner cost £53 per person for 3 courses which by the time you add wine costs on top will give you a hefty, yet not astronomical bill. Money spent on good food is never a waste in my book, but personally I feel I could have spent half that in a few other restaurants and arguably have had a more satisfying belly rub meal but I am glad I experienced a perfectly pleasant dinner at Ockenden. If you haven't been I would say it is worth a visit but I wouldn't be itching to jump back into the beat up Fiesta for revisit anything soon.

Ockenden Manor
Ockenden Lane
Cuckfield
West Sussex
RH17 5LD

REVIEW: Riddle & Finns Champagne and Oyster Bar, Brighton

2011-11-07T11:55:00.000Z

Riddle & Finns has a not too overly-polished New York cool glamour vibe. Think dimmed lights, vintage chandeliers, flattering candlelight, shiny tiled walls, oysters served on stands, champagne chilling in buckets and gleaming marble table tops. It's a very sexy little place.

Fruit De Mer platters are available at a decent price as are a selection of oysters with a choice of hot or cold sauces (Sea urchin butter, Rockefeller, champagne, pickled cucumber and bacon, salsa, soy and wasabi...) which you can then wash down with a Black Velvet dah-ling.

And they do interesting things here as well as the norm. A changing selection of sashimi, Monkfish cheek Tempura, a whole wok fried crab. There are actually quite a few Asian inspired touches on the menu. What is also good is that you could blow £40 on a lobster a shellfish platter or settle for a plate of £12 clam linguini, so this restaurant can suit all wallets and tastes, unless you are a devout carnivore or vegan as there are, refreshingly, no allowances made for you.

As you would expect in a fresh fish restaurant, a few items were not available on the night so instead of my sardines I was craving, I had the scallops. Being up the duff, there was quite a lot on the menu I had to unfortunately avoid but really fancied scallops so asked if they would, or could be cooked though. I didn't, however, really appreciate the waitress' response of looking at me like I'd asked for a plate of Captain Birdseye Fish Fingers with a side of Tommy K. I thought it was an understandable request in the circumstances and she reassured the that of course (read: you blithering idiot) they would be cooked through. Anyway, more on her later.

When they did turn up, they were cooked beautifully but, as I feared, were wibbly wobbly rare in the middle. Sigh. Maybe I should have said something but threw caution to the wind and they were absolutely delicious to be fair. Huge, sweet and swimming in crunchy chorizo pieces with the addictive oil released from cooking the sausage and a good level chilli heat. Luckily I'd saved a hunk of bread to soak up these precious juices being held in the shell. Hells yeah.

I was surprised Mr. GF didn't embark on the extravagant crustacean and oyster binge that I was expecting him to go on, but he does like his mussels and wasn't disappointed with his classic marinière. They were tender with a really good wine kick from the sauce.

My main of filleted pan fried seabass was divine, with little cubes of courgette, onion compote in a rich sauce. There was a little spiced sweetness in the sauce like clove or cinnamon which wasn't entirely to my taste but worked well overall actually so that was me happy as pie.

Talking of pie, Mr. GF went on to order the fish pie which was quite colossal and really good value for the large hunks of fish including the scallop and prawn that garnished the top.

Quality is the order of the day here. Everything was top notch and as fresh as it could be. Why Brighton doesn't have more (decent) fish restaurants I have no idea, but I guess if fish is what you want when you visit then you will not go wrong here.

Unfortunately service, as mentioned before, was a little off. Our drinks were forgotten, specials not mentioned (AND there was bloody Lobster Spaghetti and Lemon Sole on too - grrr). Our waitress had a very unusual personality, yet not unfriendly, and felt like she was rushing us out of our seats. Saying that the staff tending to other tables seemed fine, relaxed and friendly.

Another point to bring up is the communal seating policy. There is no booking and you are sat side by side if you are a couple on the bar tables and expected to share, which we personally didn't mind at all. The lady in the couple sat opposite us seemed quite self conscious and covered her entire face with her hands when she spoke, so I guess being seated next to strangers can make some people unconformable (I'm sure I didn't have something in my teeth or bad table manners that she was shielding from). There are tables of 8 and 4, and would make a very sophisticated evening with friends. But if you are after an intimate, romantic, lingering dinner, then communal seating may not be your ideal option. There is an alfresco chef's table/bar outside serviced by a kitchen hatch which you could prop up for a casual quick bite and a nose into the kitchen antics. Or, if this is all too much for your hermit-like sensibilities, they do sell shellfish and fish from a counter that you can cook in the privacy of your own home.

I really liked Riddle and Finns and when people ask me for a fish restaurant recommendation it would have to go top of the list (alongside their sister restaurant Due South which has some fab fish dishes yet isn't exclusively so like R&F). The menu is exciting yet caters for the classics too and a lot of the produce, as with Due South, is sourced locally which ticks my boxes.

Riddle & Finns
2b Meeting House lane
Brighton BN1 1HB

Mushroom foraging in Sussex

2011-10-30T21:06:00.002Z

Photographer Carl Pendle dropped me a line about his beautifully shot video on Sussex mushroom foraging which I liked so much that I thought I would share it with you. The video features Nik Westacott who runs mushroom hunts and cookery courses in the area. And even if you have no interest in mushrooms or foraging, the video is worth a watch for the shot of Nik's rather magnificent moustache anyway! Good stuff.

The Great Vegan Maki Competition, Moshi Moshi Brighton

2011-10-21T12:40:00.000+01:00

Moshi Moshi's vegetarian competition last year, which saw some of Brighton's best loved restaurants compete to make the best veggie maki, was a fantastic, memorable evening. But this year was bigger and even better and saw the likes of Hotel Du Vin, The Chilli Pickle and Aloka go head to head, one step further, in a vegan maki comp. One one hand it's interesting to see restaurants from different cuisines putting their own twist on a single theme but really what this exercise is about is Moshi's ongoing, and genuine, campaign for sustainability and fish stock reserve issues translating not only onto options on their menu, but art exhibitions (with Rankin no less), events and campaigns as part of their long term plan. Something that all restaurants, not just sushi/Japanese restaurants should be taking on board for sure.

Anyway, the entries this year were beautiful, intriguing and surprising. You will also see a lot of references to "duck" which may seem odd for a vegan event, but Moshi are also looking at alternatives for their meat as well as their fish ingredients. Hence the duck and cheese used for the evening was from The Redwood Company who specialise in "plant-based vegan alternatives". Some may find that hard to swallow but the proof of the pudding, as they say, is in the eating.

My favourite (no surprise) was the Chilli Pickle's innovative "Duck" Chettinad Maki with Mango and Coriander sauce and hot, hot, hot chilli chutney. They really made this their own and everyone guessed straight away it was theirs. Is Indian Maki a step too far in fusion? Nah, not when it tastes that good!

Hotel Du Vin really surprised me with their Crispy "Duck" in Spicy Broth and Fried Glass Noodles. Texturally the most interesting and I would have happily swallowed a bucket of the dense, umami rich broth. (Hang on, this wasn't maki, a little cheeky, but anything that delicious will get away with a little boundary breaking.) The "duck" seemed the most duck-like in this if that makes any sense at all.

Aloka put forward the most beautiful example (top image) and surprisingly (as they are by nature a raw/vegan restaurant) by far the one that experimented the most in creating a really "meaty" dish. Again, as is their style, there were may components and a few contentious textures. The ball of minced "duck" was quite convincing if a little over salted, but I think the raw product is quite salty to start with. The dehydrated lotus root was intensely, well, Bisto-ey. I couldn't quite make out the rest of the components, the fruity, possibly grapefruit or goosebery jelly was too unusual for most palettes but the squash wrap with (I think) dehydrated parsnips on top was an interesting textural contrast to the minced duck. Sparking the most debate, I think this was the most boundary breaking which I respected.

Everyone loves Gyoza, and these, from Cashew (a vegan, raw and vegetarian catering) was a really nice example, filled with "duck", mushroom and vegan cheese. The squash and miso sauce complemented the dumpling and as much as foams irritate me, the wasabi foam actually suited the dish here. There was also a sweet chilli jelly. The only component I didn't really like was the "chicken" goujon which was a little dry but a small point for a small component.

Most worthy of a good place (for sticking to the brief!) was Moshi's own "Duck" Maki. The avocado top gave the maki a fresh touch, the micro herbs were delicious and the strawberry puree, although unusual, worked really well. As a mouthful, one of the most successful.

After once ordering a "Thai Surprise" and getting the most foul green jelly once, I've always been wary of green wobbly desserts from Asian cuisines, yet the VBites vegan cheese cake was rather pleasant. The Green Tea and Almond cake base was a touch dry but the Jasmine and Green Tea mousse was light and happily, not too sweet. If you like matcha based desserts, then this would be one for you.

Was I convinced on the vegan meat alternative products? Well I think in maki, they are a small component by nature, so not chomping on hunks of the stuff, I think they are surprisingly convincing and I'd be impressed in a blind test anyone noticing who was unaware of a swap. Even the vegan cheese in the gyoza and sauces was good although the slab of the Redwood Company's "mozzarella" used by one entry was texturally and taste-wise not liked at all on our table. Incredibly salty and quite synthetic. Shame as the rest of the dish was great! However, having the choice of these products in a restaurant based on your beliefs and opinions on meat sustainability is fantastic, especially for Brighton's captive audience.

So after the score cards were handed in, what were the results? Third place went to Moshi for their Duck and Avocado Maki, second to Hotel Du Vin for the Crispy Vegan Duck Soup and first place to the wonderful Chilli Pickle for their unmistakable stamp on their Duck Chettinad Maki.

Fantastic evening and if they go ahead again next year, do try and make this event or try one of their other events and tastings that run throughout the year. Thanks to Moshi Moshi for yet another eye opening evening.

For more details on Moshi Moshis Fish Love campaign or future events visit: www.moshibrighton.co.uk

REVIEW: The Regency Restaurant, Brighton

2011-10-13T20:44:00.000+01:00

Despite the sheer number of restaurants in Brighton, we lack those celebrating fish. Remarkable really for a town by the sea (and I'm not counting the numerous tourist-fodder fish and chip shops on the seafront). If you know where to look, you could get a fish fix from Riddle and Finns (review up soon), Due South or even Fishy Fishy but decent fish restaurants continue to remain a bit of a minority.

However there's always been The Regency Restaurant. A bit of a Brighton institution, certainly where fish is concerned. I've been a few times now as, funnily enough, when people have visited they've taken ME there.

The Regency is really traditional. Hardly anything on the menu looks like it's changed in all the years its been there since 1965. Either this is its advantage or downfall and I haven't quite figured it out which yet.

The variety of fish and shell fish is impressive on the menu and starters around our table, like a very generous serving of Moules Marinier, Mackerel Pate, Deep-fried Whitebait and Baked Oysters with Parmesan were all given the thumbs up.

My diddy little prawns in my retro Prawn Cocktail (served in a ceramic shell - hello!) were really sweet and tender. Prices are really good too with starters ranging from £3-7.

I really enjoyed my main of Grilled Skate with Capers. I am a big skate fan though, such a gorgeous meaty fish and the sharp butter and caper sauce really cut through the sweetness of the flesh. It was crisp on the outside yest still beautifully soft in the middle. The skate in question must have been a beast as the portion was huge and again, a snip at £10.50.

There's plenty more on the menu, battered, fried or grilled options and mixed platters if you can't make up your mind. Lobster, scallops, oysters and crab are also available as well as a specials board.

I did have a proper sulk on for dessert as The Regency is seemingly the only place in the world to still have orange or lemon sorbets served back IN the oranges and lemons. Yeah, I love that and I'm not ashamed to admit it! My lip quivered when the waitress placed a plain ol' glass dish of sorbet in front of me. Apparently they don't do it like that anymore and this fact is nothing short of a crying shame! (Above shot from a former visit.)

Other than the death of retro sorbets, the main problem with The Regency is that despite the fish being fresh, well prepared and cooked, the standard accompaniments are always disappointing. Meals are served with chips or potatoes and an undressed salad (well salad garnish really). Unless I'm having battered fish, I always prefer potatoes and I have a sneaky suspicion that these are either tinned or grossly overcooked. Worse still they are served with budget hotel wrapped butter portions. Sides are available to order separately and may be better but I personally would like to see the fish dishes considered as a whole more. Would they be able to serve the vast amounts of tables so efficiently then? Would there be as much variety on the menu or the prices be as good? My guess is no, and the people who dine here probably would like to keep it just the way it is too.

If you want a considered, adventurous and memorable fish meal, then go for Riddle and Finns. But if you want a casual, simple and budget friendly fish meal right on the seafront without resorting to the chippies then The Regency 'aint a half bad choice. Just don't go with the boiled potato option.

The Regency Restaurant
131 King's Road
Brighton BN1 2HH

01273 325 014

An education in Welsh food at Cardiff Castle

2011-10-05T21:52:00.001+01:00

Welsh Food. I'll be honest, if I were a contestant on Family Fortunes and had to name another famous Welsh dish that wasn't the fancy cheese on toast thing, I'd be stumped and no doubt hearing the honk of the buzzer followed by the big red cross. Perfect then to be educated at a Welsh banquet, celebrating the national dishes in no other that Cardiff Castle, with the cooking executed by top chefs from the Welsh Food Association. Doesn't get Welsher than that.

But it's not just my ignorance to answer for my lack of Welsh food knowledge. The lovely ladies at Howell Food Consultancy, and ambassadors for Welsh food, with whom I was sat with at the dinner, explained that food has not historically been protected or even celebrated in the country, plus the Welsh aren't typically people who like to show off. There apparently isn't even such thing as an exclusively Welsh restaurant*, apart from maybe one in Cardiff but the name escapes me and Google fails me. Bonkers as they have the perfect climate for rearing animals and growing food as well as that coastline, so the produce is fantastic but what about dishes?

Anyway, back to the banquet food.

The starter was a celebration of that aforementioned shoreline; Anglesea Shellfish and Crab Jelly, Caerphilly Smoked Salmon and Spiced Penclacwydd Cockle Cake. It was delicious, in particular the smoked salmon, but I would have probably chosen something a little less contentious than jellied fish and cockles to win over the majority.

However, an all out real crowd-pleaser was the lamb from Irfon Valley. Lamb is the obvious choice on a Welsh menu and utterly enjoyable to boot, meltingly tender and stuffed with leeks, garlic and laverbread. My ignorance reared its ugly head again as I though lavarbread was some sort of er, bread. But it is infact seaweed (laver) that has been boiled and pureed (making it laverbread). It didn't really have much of a distinctive taste which I was expecting, but apparently is used as an excellent binding agent and eaten for breakfast with oats.

Worth mentioning was the Welsh wine too. Sadly I didn't catch the name (or even a glass) of the Welsh sparkling wine to start as I was to busy gawping at the castle interior, but really enjoyed the nicely balanced, light and refreshing white served with the fish starter which was the Cariad label from Llanerch Vineyard. The red, Glyndwr Red 2009, served with the main didn't quite hit the mark for me, it was fruity yet quite acidic and little fizzy actually!

Dessert was a Hazelnut and Chocolate tart with raspberry and orange compote. The Welsh element being the Merlyn cream liquer added to the chocolate. Very much like Baileys (but God forbid don't compare it to Baileys in Welsh company!), its alcohol comes from a different part of the whiskey distillery process than the big brand.

Next up were the cheeses; Celtic Promise, Hafod and Perl Las. All quite different and all worth a try if you come across it. The chutney accompaniment was, as one diner commented "like a slap from a Welshman that loves you really." I couldn't describe it any better.

Really, most of the food was showcasing fantastic Welsh produce rather than national dishes but we did end with one - Welsh Cakes! Served beautifully warm, I snarfed four of these little lovelies with my coffee.

The banquet, whilst to celebrate Welsh Food, was also to mark the finale of the latest Visit Wales campaign where they take Londoner Piers Bramhall on a "Proper Holiday" around Wales. If you haven't caught any of it on the telly, have a look here, it's a really great campaign: http://www.youtube.com/user/waleswantsyou

*Feel free to prove me wrong, I'm all ears and stomach.

Brighton Foodie Awards 2011

2011-10-04T12:57:00.004+01:00

So last night saw the crownings at the Brighton Food Awards. The vegetarians most definitely dominated the categories with Terre a Terre, The George pub, Iydea and Infinity Foods pipping everyone to the posts.

Voted for by the public, The Brighton Foodies had quite a few of my favourites in there, or at least nominated, but a few shining local food heros were definitely missing for me personally. It probably doesn't help that there are a few "suggestions" placed on the online voting form as that will naturally drive people without a strong opinion to choose those.

Anyway, my opinion aside, it was a great night and of course great food and canapes created mainly by the nominees (great idea on galette stand and special thanks to Seb from Boho for a brilliant Bellini gelato!) were enjoyed at the rather lovely Dome room at Pub Du Vin.

Best Restaurant 2011
First: Terre a Terre
Ah, our very own number one vegetarian restaurant!
Second: The Chilli Pickle
Third: Indian Summer

Best Food Pub 2011
First: The (Prince) George in Trafalgar Street (by just one vote!)
Still not eaten here (although do drink here quite often!) and I can say this pubs exclusively vegetarian food certainly looks, and smells, good. Think lots of meat-free burgers, curries, fajitas, burritos and salads.
Second: The Ginger Pig
Third: The Foragers

Best Café 2011
First: Iydea
I really like this place. They do great, delicious and hearty lunches to eat in or takeaway and I never come away without feeling like I've had a good feed. One of the better value places for a casual lunch.
Second: Cloud 9
Third: Metro Deco

The Best Food Shop 2011
First: Infinity Foods
Celebrating 40 years, this is the veggie mothership shop. They also have a good range of natural beauty products.
Second: Real Patisserie
Third: The Brighton Sausage Company

BOOK REVIEW: On a Stick! by Matt Armendariz

2011-10-02T11:17:00.000+01:00

I love food on sticks. Give me a line of arrosticini, barbecuing on their own special holders and I'm a happy girl. Heck, I'll admit to getting a tad excited over a cheese and pineapple party hedgehog. Yes really.

So imaging a whole book on the subject from Corn Dogs to Bo La Lot (ground meat in betel leaves). Even sweet treats like Margarita Jelly Shots and Homemade Marshmallows are in here.

There are some very sophisticated canape options for your cocktails like Coconut Shrimp and Deep Fried Pickles as well as some really kooky options. Not sure how I feel about Spaghetti and Meatballs on a stick but I could really get down with a stick or two of fried Mac and Cheese!

Kookiest of them all, however, would have to be the bacon and peanut covered bananas. Yup. Ladies and gents, I give you the Frozen Elvis. The "Elvis" is a er, classic, sandwich named after its biggest fan with lashings of peanut butter, banana and bacon. The Frozen Elvis is an iced treat version of this sanie and if you like salted caramel then you'll love this, the recipe is at the end of this post. Go on you know you want to.

From the same publishers as the Encyclopedia of Sandwiches, it is another slightly quirky food book but in a market saturated with the same old, same old, these books offer something different. Irritatingly, like Encyclopedia of Sandwiches, all measurements are US. Which if like me you can't get your head around cups of things can be a bit of a hindrance but the recipes are interesting none the less. I think these books could really warrant with a UK measurement print run.

Anyway, this would be a great book for entertaining if you wanted "finger food" (that term always creeps me out) that was slightly more interesting than your standard sausage on a stick. Even for kids parties, I could see the quite a lot of the recipes going down really well.

So plenty of inspiration to help you think beyond the stick.

Frozen Elvis Recipe (which I've "translated" for the UK)

I used 2 bananas and cut them in half, which, for me, makes them easier to manage and eat but below is the full size version. If you choose to do the same just adjust the other ingredients. Also I found that dipping the bananas in chocolate didn't work as they would freeze again instantly so the peanut and bacon wouldn't stick so I applied the chocolate with the back of a spoon and coated and dipped the bananas quickly in small sections.

Serves 4

4 Lolly sticks
4 Medium bananas, peeled
4 Rashers of chopped cooked bacon (cook until really crisp)
Large handful Dry roasted peanuts, chopped
150-200g dark chocolate chips

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Insert a lolly stick in bottom of each banana and put on prepared baking sheet. Freeze at least 1 hour.
Mix bacon and peanuts in shallow dish and set aside. Melt chocolate chips in a bowl sat on a pan of boiling water. Stir occasionally. Dip each frozen banana in melted chocolate and allow excess to drip off.
Roll in bacon/peanut mixture and then return to parchment lined baking sheet. Refreeze at least 1 hour. Keep frozen until ready to serve.

On a Stick! by Matt Armendariz is published by Quirk Books and costs £11.99.

Many thanks to The Publishers Group for this copy to review.

Mystery Food Mosaic

2011-09-30T16:00:00.001+01:00

Does any one know anything about this gorgeous foodie mosaic that seems to have appeared overnight in Brighton on Station Street/Trafalgar Street junction? It doesn't seem to have been positioned in a particularly foodie-centric area but it's fantastic! A tumbled bottle of wine, a nice plate of charcuterie, a prawn or two and some juicy pomegranates. I'm tempted to picnic on it.

RECIPE: Lettuce and Avocado soup

2011-09-27T22:39:00.001+01:00

Yes really. I know this sounds like something Gwyneth Paltrow would be peddling but trust me, this soup, unusual as it seems, is rather good. Light and virtuous, the avocados are only added at the end when the soup is blended, adding flavour and creaminess, without bitterness.

The soup can be reheated, just very, very gently, but do not freeze.

Serves 6

1tbs Olive oil
1 Onion, chopped
3 Celery stalks, chopped
1 Large potato, peeled and chopped
500g (about 6) Little gem lettuce, washed and shredded
1 Litre of vegetable stock
3 Large ripe avocados
Seasoning
200ml Créme Fraiche
Half a lemon

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the onion, celery and potato, softening for 5 minutes without colouring. Add the shredded lettuce and the stock, bring to the boil then cook for 10 minutes.

Take off the heat, scoop the flesh of the avocados into the saucepan and blend until smooth. Taste and season accordingly. Reheat gently if needed.

Squeeze the juice of the lemon into the Créme Fraiche, mixing thoroughly. Serve up the soup, swirling in the lemon Créme Fraiche.

Meeting the Godfather of Italian food, Antonio Carluccio

2011-09-24T10:11:00.000+01:00

It's not everyday you get to meet one of you food heros. Antonio Carluccio represents a lot of how I feel about Italian food in attitude and passion. I guess that's why they call him the Godfather of Italian food. After meeting him, I now also know him as the charmer of Italian food! The warmth that radiates from your television screen when he is on the box, is evident in his character. Such a gracious, approachable and friendly man, I was lucky to have the opportunity of a quiet 10 minute chat with him before his slot on the Brighton Food Festival Live Food Show where he cheerfully taught us about mushroom varieties (part of a nationwide Carluccio Mushroom Festival) and how to cook the perfect mushroom risotto, throwing in the story of his love of foraging from childhood and a few obligatory Berlusconi jokes into the mix. It was an absolute piacere.

I loved Two Greedy Italians, which showed the passionate relationship between Italian people and their food. Do you think the UK will ever have the same relationship?
It takes time. You can't jump generations. Italians have always eaten food together, with the mother still taking care of the food and the family. Children pick up their attitude of food from their family and their education of the palette is developed at a very young age. Good food is necessary for health and also your mentality. It's an attitude.

What is the future of Italian food? Recent reports state that child obesity in Italy is on the increase and attitudes are changing.
This is a trend from all over the world I'm afraid. Even in Italy, people are shopping in the supermarket, for the easy and the ready made, although the quality of food in the supermarkets there is still generally better. But computers and lack of exercise also (is contributing to obesity).

I've never lived in Italy but being raised in an Italian family environment, my head my be English but my heart (and definitely my stomach!) are certainly Italian. You left Italy when you were just 21, where do you call home?
Spiritually Italy, but really the whole world. I love people and to communicate in different languages. I speak 5 different languages.

What do you think of the popularity of restaurants such as Polpo and Polpetto, based on Venetian bacari, do you think they are helping to spread the knowledge of regional Italian food?
(Shrugs) It's an attempt to copy tapas. Antipasto is liked and so varied in Italy so why not? You get to taste everything without getting full on pasta, ravioli.

My family are from Abruzzo, are there any foods from that region you particularly enjoy?
Arrosticini!

I'm making pasta and fagioli for dinner tonight. Any tips?
Go to a deli and get a piece of fat. Not the yellow fat, but the white, from the prosciutto to give it flavour. Soaking dried beans is better but takes a long time and it's important that they must be very well cooked, otherwise you get hard bits. Tinned beans are fine to use, like borlotti or cannellini. Squash half of them to thicken the broth. To finish, sprinkle over a little peperoncino and olive oil, or a little chilli oil.

Carluccio then went on to cook his classic mushroom risotto for us and show us how to prepare them and a few different varieties, some of which I have never seen before like the Hedgehog or Blewitt as well as tips for foraging (twist mushrooms rather than pull them, preserving the mushroom roots (mycelium) and to take someone who knows mushroom varieties otherwise it could be your last meal!). He used a LOT of butter to fry his onions in before adding the rice (carnaroli - "the Ferrari of rice") and briefly "toasting" it in the pan. The different mushroom varieties were cut directly on top of the rice and allowed to sautée a little before a ladle of chicken stock (strengthened with a cube of Star Porcini stock cube) was added, left to absorbed before another was added. Salt, yet another generous knob of butter and a handful of Parmesan was all that was added at the end. And that was it, reminding us that the reason Italian food is so loved, is that with minimal effort, you can create something really nice.

Far creamier (and wetter) than my version, with a lot more butter (but better for it), I learned that a good risotto should never pile up, the consistency should be all'onda (like a wave).

I was also very happy to hear that there will be more Two Greedy Italians coming our way soon. Carluccio is currently on a tour celebrating his beloved mushrooms. From the 10th September until the 10th October, Carluccio restaurants will be showcasing mushroom dishes using different varieties of mushroom, the shops will sell a selection of mushroom and truffle goods and mushroom markets will be taking place around the country. He is also launching a nationwide mushroom competition which will be judged by the man himself and offered on Carluccio's special board. Winners will also have the chance to cook with Antonio in his London kitchen.

To enter the competition visit www.facebook.com/carluccioscaffe or for more details of the mushroom markets visit www.carluccios.com

Top image of me and Carluccio © Julia Claxton Photography

Cooking with Cava plus Cookbook and Cava Giveaway

2011-09-19T22:10:00.003+01:00

It was a very glamorous weekend in the Graphic Foodie kitchen. Out with my typical rustic peasant Italian cooking and in with some decadence for a change!

I used to be hell bent on creating punishing menus for any get-together at my house, because I'm a bit of a show-off to be honest, but not spending any time with your guests as you were locked, sweating in the kitchen, along with frazzled nerves and weary legs from all-day cooking got a bit boring after a while. Freixenet sent me a few bottles from their range, along with some recipes for easy, yet indulgent cava-based dishes to try out and I was pleasanly surprised. I'll certainly be making the cava-poached salmon dish a go again, perfect for a dinner party starter or a luxurious lunch with the girls. You really did get the benefit of the cava in the taste of the dish and was perfect washed down with a glass or two more of bubbly.

Ps. There's a giveaway for some Freixenet cava, an entertaining cookbook and recipe cards at the bottom of the post - good luck!

Freixenet Poached Salmon Salad with New Potatoes & Broad Beans

This recipe, by Jo Pratt, was super easy and completely prepare-ahead for stress free entertaining.

Serves 6

6 x skinless salmon fillets
Butter for greasing
250ml Freixenet Cordon Negro
1 bay leaf
Small bunch of dill
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
450g fresh podded broad beans (I used peas as couldn't get hold of any broad beans)
100ml mayonnaise
2 tsp Dijon mustard
500g cooked new potatoes, halved or quartered
4 spring onions, finely sliced
Small bag of pea shoots or watercress sprigs
Lemon wedges to garnish

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper.
Smear a little butter on the base of a large frying pan, and sit in the salmon. Slowly pour in the Freixenet and add the bay leaf, half of the dill and the shallots. Bring to a simmer, spoon some Freixenet over the salmon then cover with a lid. Poach for about 8-10 minutes until the salmon is cooked through.
Remove the salmon from the pan and boil the poaching liquid until it reduces in quantity by roughly one half. Leave both the salmon and poaching liquid to cool.
Cook the broad beans in boiling salted water for just a few minutes, then drain and rinse under the cold tap to cool. If you have the time it is well worth removing the greyish skin from the broad beans, revealing the bright green bean inside.
To make a dressing, mix together the mayonnaise and Dijon mustard then add enough of the cooled poaching liquid to make a loose dressing, with the consistency of pouring cream. Chop the remaining dill, season with salt and pepper and mix.
The broad beans, potatoes and spring onions can now be mixed with the dressing. Add the pea shoots or watercress and then flake in the salmon. Gently mix together. Serve on a plate

To polish off the Salmon and the Cava, I then made some particularly potent Freixenet, Elderflower & Strawberry Jellies. The recipe for these, as well as some others by Jo Pratt can be found at www.facebook.com/freixenet.

Cookbook and Cava Giveaway

The competition has now closed. Congratulations to Jennifer McDermott who was picked using a random name selector. She wins the copy of Jo Pratt's In the Mood for Entertaining, some recipe cards and a bottle of Freixenet bubbly. Enjoy x

Details

Competition closes at GMT midday Friday 30th September 2011.
A winner will be selected from all valid entries using a random number generator.
The winner will be notified by email or twitter after the competition closes on Friday 30th September 2011.
The prize is one In The Mood For Entertaining cookbook, Freixenent recipe cards, plus one bottle of Freixenet cava. The winner can specify any address they would like it sent to within mainland UK.
No part of a prize is exchangeable for cash or any other prize.
You must be over 18 years of age.
The judges’ decision will be final, and no correspondence will be entered into.

A month of revisits

2011-09-14T14:47:00.001+01:00

This month I have seemingly done a round of revisits to some of my favourite restaurants and cafés. I often go to these but then don't re-review them as sometimes I just want to eat a flipping meal and not have to blog about it, although I can assure you my reviews still stand. Although I like I like the Russian roulette experience of trying new places, sometimes you want to go to an old faithful, somewhere you know you will get a good feed if you're out and abut in Brighton (launch theme music from Cheers).

The Chilli Pickle
You know I love this restaurant. Having had time to bed into its new location in a more foot-fall friendly road and increased in size, it still retains all of its magic, quality and affordability. With a larger premises, they have been able to expand their tandoori dishes and the huge mixed meat platter as well as the whole tandoori sea bass are worth going for alone. The Oxtail Madras is also back on the menu - one of Mr. GF's favourite dishes. Still have a great selection of beers, still have fantastic staff, this is such a great asset to the Brighton dining scene. [Previous review here and here.]

Sam's of Brighton (Kemptown)
Another one of my favourites, Sam's can be relied upon for simple yet robust, quality cooking. Their lack of faff is a real plus point as well as their smart bistro style interior. Plus it's round the corner from my house! Using lots of fantastic produce, the meat dishes in particular are always good. On this visit I had a really succulent pig's cheek starter (which was on the specials) and a delicious and surprisingly hearty Salt Marsh lamb salad. I also tried a really nice Sicilian wine from Mandra Rossa which was new to me. [Previous review]

Love Poppy's underground restaurant
I attended a really pleasant event here courtesy of Casillero Del Diablo wines. Fab wines aside, Poppy delivered another stonking, beautifully presented meal. Her slow cooked pork was droolingly good. And you know what it's like at underground restaurants with strangers where everyone is being polite? Yeah, well, forks were spearing leftover meat here, there and everywhere! Mr GF, usually such a charming man, made sure he nabbed the bone of the platter for the last tasty morsels! Dessert was the prettiest of the month too.

You won't get her attention to detail in any restaurant in town. Get down to here if you can, upcoming events here. More info available at www.lovepoppy.co.uk.

Boho Gelato
Whenever I have a troop of visitors, I march them down to Boho for an education in gelato. Now my visitors DEMAND we factor in a visit here! Offering a different experience every day as the flavours change constantly, I loved my lemon and poppy seed and mint choice this time. The best bit about going with a load of people is you get to share (if they let you!) so got to try the Gin and Tonic, Cherry and White Chocolate and Honeycomb flavours (although you can always ask the server nicely for a little taste). [Previous review]

Cocoa Patisserie
I'll almost forgive them for always running out of my favourite Cocoa product, the briochette unless I go in super early, because the second choice will always be first class anyway like their flaky croissant, tartlets, macarons and beautiful mousse cakes. Since discovering this gem, I refuse to eat pastries from anywhere else in the city. A piece of Paris right in the heart of Brighton. Bliss. [Previous review]

Pho
I popped in for a solo lunch because I wanted a really good feed and a steaming hot bowl of their Pho is always going to fill you up! I tend to go for the meatballs and brisket, shoving loads of the supplied coriander, chilli and beansprouts in. It is a heavy lunch but instead of making me sleepy, always makes me feel strong and virtuous - perfect to fuel an afternoon back at the studio designing! Nice and casual, I always enjoy my visits here. [Previous review]

Cote
Another chain yes, but another quick post-work meal on the fly. I do think from reading reviews we have a particularly good branch here, I think the interior is the nicest in the old music library and I've yet to have a dud meal off the full menu (the cheap early dining menu can be a bit hit and miss). [Previous review]

DESIGN: Cool Chile Company

2011-09-10T19:00:00.000+01:00

I adore this branding work by Bless for the Cool Chile Co. who are suppliers of Mexican dried chillies and corn products to the UK market. After using a clip art snake graphic (gah!!) for over a decade, they, quite rightly, craved a unique brand they could call their own.

Bless took inspiration from Aztec shapes and colours synonymous with Mexico to create a brand identity. And along with the website, I think this is really gorgeous packaging and something I would want in my kitchen.

A perfect example of elevating a good food product higher with thoughtful, beautiful design. Swoon.

www.coolchile.co.uk

Old packaging:

Images via Bless Design apart from old packaging from Borough Market site)

SHOPPING: Prints by Anek

2011-09-06T19:42:00.001+01:00

Gorgeous prints from Croatian Etsy seller Anek. Particularly like the "La cucina piccola fa la casa grande" - so very, very true! I want all of them!

via oh joy images from Anek

BOOK REVIEW: Fishy Fishy Cookbook

2011-08-31T13:05:00.000+01:00

Incredibly I've yet to make it down to the Fishy Fishy restaurant in Brighton despite having heard many a good thing about it. The style and laid-back attitude seems to suit us Brightonians down to the ground and Dermot O'Leary, despite his involvement, hasn't made it feel like some superficial celebrity endorsed enterprise (thank goodness, we have enough of those). Despite only being open a couple of years, it hasn't taken them long to produce a cookbook and good timing too as fish seems to be the hot culinary topic at the moment.

You would expect to some degree some info on sustainable and local sourcing as well as the types of fishing methods and the "do I don't I cod?" issue, all of which are covered in the opening chapters, along with handy sections on fish preparation and selection. And it's so good to see that there is much great fish to be had near my hometown.

The beauty of this book is its simplicity, both in design and content. Fish requires very little to make a great meal and most recipes are more of an explanation of the fish variety in terms of taste, season and tips on buying like choosing "crippled" lobsters that have lost claws as a cost saving measure. The book also highlights the versatility of fish; kept as fillets with simple accompaniments like salsas or sauces, or as pates, stews, burgers, pies or even multiple ways of serving oysters or squid. Interestingly there are also a few recipes in here for non fish eaters like Goat's Cheese and Red Onion Tartlets and a short section on desserts.

Unfortunately, I seemed to have picked a bit of an erroneous recipe to start with. I adore Kedgeree, they used to serve it at 4am when I used to go to fancy dances with Mr GF in his Officer's Mess. After the buckets of booze we used to consume it was always a welcome smell and sight! The recipe here stated it was for 2 people but 600g of smoked haddock smelt a little fishy to me. I mean, you'd HAVE to be a trooper to consume that amount! Turns out the recipe should have been for 4-6 people so I halved it anyway yet oddly still needed the original stated 300ml of fish stock plus more water for half the amount of rice. Hmmm. Still a very tasty result and one I'll try again (with my hand scrawled annotations in the book!).

Next up was the Fish and Prawn Curry and I was particularly interested to see if it would replace my much loved go-to recipe from BBC Good Food. Quantity was perfect, but I stupidly picked up low fat coconut milk by accident so the dish lacked the real creaminess it should have had and maybe added to the fact it looked nothing like the image in the book:

That aside, I still preferred the depth of flavours from my tried and tested recipe better due to having far more spices but for a quick and easy mid-week recipe with limited ingredients, the Fishy Fishy curry is ideal.

This is an affordable, well presented and designed cookbook. Looking at the recipes I think where this book will shine is in cooking those using simple fillet or whole fish. I still have much to learn and hopefully this will make me as comfortable with cooking fish as I am with meats. The Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Scallops with Chorizo are next on my list to try and I'll be sure to dip into this for mid-week solutions.

And I really must get down to the restaurant!

The Fishy Fishy Cookbook is published by New Holland Publishers Ltd and costs £16.99

I received this copy for review.

REVIEW: Michael Caines at the ABode, Exeter

2011-08-24T13:17:00.001+01:00

The best things come to those who wait and wait we certainly did for our courses at the Michael Caines Restaurant inside the ABode Exeter.

The amuse was nicely presented as we waited in the bar area, and they even served up an additional celeriac soup amuse after we took our seats at the table.

The bread basket was huge and groaned with an impressive assortment. (Good job as this was to sustain us for quite some time before the starters arrived.)

Totally out of character, I chose the Wild Mushroom Cannelloni (£12.50), rare as I never order pasta out but these fine vertical tubes were filled with intense, smooth roast cep mushrooms that smelt like a fresh woodland floor. The earthy mushroom velouté had a great consistency and manners alone stopped me from mopping the plate clean with more bread. You had to really love mushrooms for this dish but luckily I do.

Caines is one for local produce and there was plenty of local fish on the menu. Mr. GF chose the Roasted Brixham Scallops (£14.50) with cauliflower and truffle purée and a sweet raisin vinaigrette. Despite the presentation looking a little 90s, these were some of the best scallops I have tasted (tearing one away from the husband was no mean feat).

Given plenty more time to reflect on how good the starters were, the mains finally arrived after another age of a wait - must be all that fannying around with tweezers in the kitchen. Don't get me wrong, I'm Italian and used to spending hours on end around a table, but we're usually eating for most of it!

Anyway, I opted for more local fish in the form of a Slow-poached Brixham Brill served with stir-fried vegetables, shiitake mushrooms and a Thai purée with lemongrass foam (£23.50). Despite being one of the smallest plates of food that has ever been put in front of me (why is it the higher the price the smaller the food?) it was utterly delicious. The fish was pillow soft and the different Thai flavours of citrus, sesame, and lemongrass flashed throughout the dish. I liked the textural contrast the crunchy vegetables under the fish offered. Sad to say, I was so hungry at this point I wolfed down the dish in five mouthfuls, probably not giving it the time it deserved to fully appreciate.

Mr. GF's Slow-roasted Devon beef sirlion with Madeira cream sauce (£23.50) looked great, and despite being two teeny weeny little pieces (that tortellini in the picture isn't that big) was tender perfection. The Jacob's Ladder tortellini itself was pretty good I must say and the pasta here seems very well made indeed, filled with rich, flaking tender beef. It was a crying shame there was only one. However, Mr. GF insisted that my meat ravioli are better, but that may be because I serve a hell of a lot more than one on a plate.

Dessert orders were finally taken just under an hour after main were cleared. We were largely ignored but it may have been because friends on the table were due to get married the day after and family came to wish them well. The waiting staff may have been giving us some extra space for this but I had heard about the painful service from other reviews.

When dessert orders were finally taken, I was warned that my souffle would take 15 minutes to arrive (ho ho). My Apricot Souffle with Pistachio Creme Anglaise (£8.50) sure looked the part didn't it? The accompanying ice cream and poached apricot were delicious but the souffle was swimmingly raw at the bottom. Irritatingly schoolboy but it has to be said that it was removed from the bill without a word.

Many people on the table chose better with the impressive looking Trio of Chocolate and plates were practically licked clean. I liked the way the hazelnut in a sugar syrup spike looked.

With no sticky toffee pudding on the menu, Mr GF predictably opted for local cheeses, which included some well known and loved ones like the Quicke's Raw Milk Cheddar and Sharphan. I thought £10 wasn't bad for the selection as well as the pickle and quince accompaniments.

So, all in all a good meal but service should have been a heck of a lot sharper for the price point. The food, when it eventually arrived was, on the whole, great but part of me will never be able to swallow the whole small food/high prices issue unless utterly spectacular and faultlessly delivered. I'm not adverse to spending astronomical amounts on dining and am more than happy if I leave full, happy and impressed but I can't say I left feeling like this particular visit was a good value for money experience.

Michael Caines at the ABode Exeter
Cathedral Yard
Exeter
Devon EX1 1HD

TRAVEL: Florence restaurant (and general eating) guide

2011-08-16T23:00:00.007+01:00

I loved Florence. It was my first visit and really exceeded my expectations as did everywhere we ate which seemed remarkably untainted by the tourist hordes if you know where to look. But then I did spend hours upon hours researching restaurants and things to eat! If you are visiting then I'll save you the trouble by listing all of my best finds here with budgets to suit everyone. I've also created a Google Map at the end with more places I wanted to try but ran out of time for, like the place that serves truffled sandwiches and Prosecco!

Best for Gelato
Avoid the piled up, gaudy displays for the tourists and head to one of the below. Grom is a branded and well-respected gelateria with a great pistachio flavour but I preferred the following two.

1. Carapina
Via Lambertesca 18. www.carapina.it
The one everyone is talking about whoever they are. Only the best seasonal ingredients are used here and well worth the extra euro for. Some unusual flavours like olive oil, beer or even cheese mingle with classics. I liked the Vin Santo, which had a boozy Zabaglione taste and the Primolatte, a fresh, pure "first milk" much like a Fior Di Latte. The yogurt flavours are good and well matched to one of their fruity sorbets.

2. Gelateria della Passera
Piazza della Passera 15
A hidden gem and one I randomly stumbled across yet went back to 4 times in as many days. Set in a beautiful tiny piazza south of the Arno, I think this was may favourite overall. The sorbets were just the ticket after eating too heavily at dinner. Mostly classic flavours with a few surprises like the very good Mojito. I however couldn't eat enough of their pineapple or melon sorbets.

Best Cheap Eat
1. Il Contadino
71 Via Palazzuolo www.trattoriailcontadino.com Lunch and dinner. Closed at the weekends.
I still can't get over the cost of the meal here. Go for the set meal prices of €10.50 for primo, secondo, side, water and coffee or €11 for the option of a quarter litre of wine on top of that. Insane as the food was delicious and the wine better than any pish that passes as house wine in the UK. This is a simple, yet charming, classic tiled, local trattoria on the outskirts, full of lone dining workers at lunch but you MUST go. The daily changing menu includes classic home-style Italian cooking like mamma would make. The menu is read out to you but English is spoken. I went for home-made ravioli and a wonderful veal and pea stew but you can have minestrone, roast rabbit, carpacchio or even just pasta and a plate of cheese. Beware though, the coffee would wake the dead!

2. Gusta Pizza
Via Maggio 46, 11:30am to 3pm and 7:30pm to 11pm. Closed Monday.
Florence may not be the obvious place for a pizza yet this pizzeria is one of the better ones. Cheap as chips at €4.50-€7 yet great quality ingredients. Go early to get one of the glass topped barrels and be prepared to share. Alternatively get takeaway and devour on the steps of the Santo Spirito piazza. Avoid the house wine like the plague though and opt for a beer. The Gusta family also have a good sandwich shop round the corner called Gusta Panino for a quick cheap bite on the run.

Best Sandwiches/Snacks
1. Nerbone
Mercato Centrale. Closed Sunday.
No foodie should miss a visit to the Mercato Centrale (closed Sun) to gawp at the size of the artichokes and grimace at the tripe stalls. Mostly full of expensive dried mushrooms and multi-coloured pasta for the tourists but worth going alone for the best porchetta sandwich in Florence. Make sure you get it "bagnata" which means "wet" with the cooking juices from the roast. God I still dream about this sandwich.

2. I Due Fratellini
Via dei Cimatori 38. www.iduefratellini.com
"Hole in the wall" sandwich and Chianti shops were common in Florence, the fast food joints of the time. I Due Fratellini is still there where a mere €2.50 gets you a nice crusty roll and a choice of filling like porchetta or pork with salsa verde. Wash it down with a small glass of Chianti which you prop up on the specially made shelves on the outside wall. Pret a Manger can bite me.

Best mid-priced
1. Dei Frescobaldi
Via dei Magazzini, 2. Closed all day Sunday and Monday for lunch. www.deifrescobaldi.it
Smart restaurant with great quality food and ideal for a quiet lunch as few tourists will venture here. We just had some wine and some primi for a light lunch. The pasta of my Girasole ("sun flower") was like silk, filled with ricotta and spinach and topped with fresh cherry tomatoes and basil. Mr. GF's Pici with pancetta and cheese was a real man's pasta dish and something he raved about for the rest of the trip. Prices range from €12-16 for pasta and €18-20 for meat secondi.

I thought the €6 per diner cover charge was a little steep though - everywhere in Florence will charge you a few euros but this was the highest, yet shouldn't put you off a visit as the food and service is great.

2. Caffé Italiano
Via dell'Isola delle Stinche, 11. Closed Monday. www.caffeitaliano.it
Caffé Italiano offers classic Tuscan cooking with a beautiful smart-rustic interior. Again we pit stopped here for a plate of pasta at lunch although I opted for the Gnudi, a type of regional ricotta dumpling similar to gnocchi. These were served with a simple sage and butter sauce. Mr GF went for the potato ravioli with ragu. The chaps opposite us chose the steak, a must in Florence, and here they serve the Chianina steak - more expensive but the best. The Chianina, huge white cattle, has been bred locally for over 2000 years.

The full 5 course tasting menu at €50 would be a good option for a lingering, atmospheric dinner. It's worth noting the cheaper pizzeria they have next door which only serves 3 pizza choices all of which are supposed to be very good.

Best for Classic Tuscan food
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco
Borgo San Iacopo 43, Lunch and Dinner. Closed Wednesday.
We chose the Chingale Bianco for our anniversary dinner and, as the name suggests, wild boar is the house specialty.

The interior of this Ostiera is charming and fills up very quickly creating a lively atmosphere. I would drop in or call and book for dinner as small queues were forming outside. The menu is a bevvy of classic Tuscan dishes, they do a really good mixed antipasto with boar chacuterie. For primi, I went for the classic ribollita soup and Mr. GF, clearly on a pasta bender, the homemade tagliatelle with thick boar ragu. Divine. Mains were also great. My herbed roast pork fillet was so tender and served with lashings of the intense roasting juices. Remember to order a side dish as meat will arrive alone or with just roast potatoes.

As I wasn't eating red meat we didn't go for the table sliced Florentine steak as there was a minimum weight order (which really needed two people to finish). Mr. GF opted for the sliced beef and rocket which was the same cut anyway.

This is a really great restaurant and if you book be sure to get the little nook downstairs or the table upstairs for a bit of privacy and lingering as staff tend to be tempted to rush you a little to calm the queue.

Google Map of Florence
This map shows some of the gems I discovered in Florence as well as some I have yet to visit but been highly recommended. Times and prices correct as of July 2011 but be sure to check the current opening details as restaurants will close either Saturday, Sunday, Monday or Wednesday and part or all of August for their holidays. Some just randomly close so hard luck!

View The Graphic Foodie in Florence in a larger map