Does This Look Like Your Dog at Mealtime?

“What?” You say….shouldn’t I be writing about how to get your dog NOT to beg?  Well, you would think so but often times in dog training you have to approach things from a different angle in order to be successful quickly.

My dog training background comes mostly from training Service Dogs for adults and children with disabilities.  I was lucky that when I got started at an early age training dogs there was also a local prison that was training dogs for disabled individuals, working with the men and the dogs was truly a blessing and it changed my life.  From that time on, I have done all that I can to continue to work with Service Dogs and the disabled even starting my own nonprofit organization.

When you train a Service Dog for someone with a disability, you quickly realize that physical force is out of the question, trainers can force the dogs to complete tasks but the disabled individual would not be able to use the same techniques, so you learn to use positive reinforcement to sculpt a dog to do all sorts of tasks and you even learn to train your dog to do some things that you will later never ask for again.

One of the first things I teach my dogs is how to beg.  I start with a positive reinforcement game, which means when you do what I want you to do you get rewarded for your behavior.  I ignore bad behavior, and only reward the things I like and I don’t use any real commands, I wait to see what behaviors my dog is willing to offer me.

When I first start this game off, I reward my new dog or puppy for sitting patiently.  Each time my pup sits he gets a treat and praise, and if he continues to sit I continue to feed and praise him for his patience, because I don’t want a dog that bounces right up after a task.  If he jumps on me I turn my back or ignore him, if he wanders away I wait until he returns and sits; but if he lays down I jackpot him.

Jackpots are larger treats (normally I use pea sized or smaller) or better treats.  Sometimes I stuff a tool belt full of mediocre treats i.e. normal dog treats in one side and awesome treats i.e. chicken or cheese in the other side.

When my pup does something average but good, I reward with mediocre small treats, but if he completes a difficult task or one I really want to focus on I give the better higher value reward.  This tells him YES that is the behavior I want to see from you.  Dog training is about chaining behavior together, starting out small and then little by little requiring more and more.

Sit is the first and easiest thing to get a dog to do reliably.  But, I like a dog that lays down and stays there most of the time.  In my house, if in doubt lay down!  So I shape and reward that behavior first and foremost.  My pups learn from the moment they come home that laying down is where I want them.

I teach my dogs from an early age or straight out of the shelter if they want ANYTHING they must lay down in order to get it.  I want them

This is a Great Behavior

to think they control their environment to some degree, so this is how I teach them to beg.  If they want my ice cream cone, my hot dog, my affection, whatever the scenario they must lay down in order to have a shot at it.  This behavior also transfers to other people in other situations if my dogs wander across a 3 year old eating an ice cream cone they aren’t gone to knock the kid down and run off with the prize, they are simply going to lay down at the toddler’s feet and wait to be rewarded.  It is a great system!

In the beginning,  I carry lots of treats with me so that I can reward the behavior right away going back to the scenario with the toddler I would give my puppy a treat and lots of praise and he would think “YES, they have to give me what I want”.  This would cement the idea and ensure that he follows the same behavior pattern time and time again.

Then, I begin to fade the treats and provide my dogs with constant praise for a job well down and treats on occasion.

Finally,  the clincher is if you like this behavior (and I do) I continue to reward my dogs randomly and on special occasions for the rest of their lives for adhering to this plan.  I like to recognize a job well done and most people may never notice a dog calmly laying at their feet for attention or food but I like this calm, kind behavior.

But, if you don’t like this behavior in general and don’t want your dog to even lay down and beg, then you totally extinguish ever giving your dog a treat again while you are eating or while anyone else is eating.  Your dog has already built the foundation for calm behavior and laying down so he will eventually stop begging but will likely to some degree still show acceptable behavior.  He may even vacate the area and lay somewhere else.

Because I have trained and worked with Service Dogs for so long I have taught my dogs to lay down under the table while we eat, this way they can’t see me and I can’t see them so there is no way for them to sit and beg and this system works at our house.

Sometimes even teaching a behavior you don’t want and then never asking for it again is an extremely effective way to teach your dog not to do something.  I guarantee you this works on a variety of behaviors!  And, this is a much happier more fun way to train than using force!  Good luck and have fun training!

This is the Epitome of Good Behavior, Laying Down with the Head Down

Teach Your Dog to Beg is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

1. Dog Eats Dog

Alfie took the saying “it’s a dog eat dog world” a little too seriously. The plastic figurine made him sick as a dog, forcing his owners to take him to the vet. One X-Ray and two hours of surgery later, Alfie made a full recovery after just barely avoiding doggie heaven.

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2. A thong

Taffy, a Springer spaniel from Stafforshire , is a bit of a pervert. When he’s not busy eating socks (which may have roots in some obscure foot fetish) he has a thing for eating the thongs of his owner. The owners, in an effort to save face, say they are actually their “three year old son’s pants”. Right.

3. Engagment Ring

Diamonds are a girl’s best friend and, apparently, a bitch’s favorite snack. Dierdre Murphy Lofft was beside herself when her yellow gold engagement ring went missing… and she started to suspect Luciano (her pet Rottweiler). The X-Ray above tells the story.

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4. Spoon

American children are born with silver spoons in their mouth. This 2-year-old Saint Bernard must’ve been hungry when at birth, eating the spoon along with his medicine.

5. Electric Knife

After eating an electric knife blade, this dog should be recruited to the circus. Personally, I would pay good money to see a repeat. The kicker: the dog did no harm to himself and surgeons removed the blade without issue.

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6. Another Dog Eats $750

Countless mounds of feces and pools of vomit later, and Pepper’s owners were able to collect $647 of the $750 the dog ate (pictured above). A quick run to the bank got them new bills, although one would imagine the bank teller wasn’t the happiest camper. Oh, and Pepper was just fine after nature finished running its course. I’m also sure that after they got it back they quickly spent some of it on puppy training classes!

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7. Dog Eats 10 Pies from Pie Eating Contents

Like father like dog – a bichon fries named Charlie put away 20 pies and “damaged” 10 others which were sitting in the fridge of Dave Williams. Dave was the 1995 World Pie Eating Championship, and the pies were slated an upcoming championship. As if the story could get any more bizarre, Charlie was then entered into the match by his owner. And, yes, this is a true story.

8. 9 golf balls

Story: Bertie, a dog owned by Mark and Michelle Jewell, eats 9 golf balls over the course of her walks around Essex. Her stomach is so close to rupture, a vet has to put Bertie under the knife to remove them. Moral: don’t walk your dog around the golf course.

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10. 12 Fishing Hooks

Toby, a canine version of Danny Ocean (or maybe Ethan Hunt), was not deterred by the 6 foot ledge his owner hid the fish food on. He wanted the bait, unawares of the hooks inside of them. After what was surely a mission of stealth and daring, Toby managed to reach the bait and break open the container with his bare paws. This X-Ray shows the 12 hooks in his stomach, before they passed harmlessly out the southern tunnel.

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10 Strangest Things Eaten By Dogs is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

This is one of the worst years in my memory for fleas, at least here in the South!  The irony for me is that I am from the North West and I never grew up having to worry about fleas or the carnage they wreak on pets.  In the North West, it gets too cold during the winter for fleas to survive so they don’t pose much of a problem for house pets.  Even when I was a veterinary technician in Denver, Colorado we didn’t see problems with fleas in dogs or cats unless they were actively around wild life.  Truth be told, I hardly recognized fleas when I moved to Georgia four years ago however the education was rapid!

Perhaps the most interesting thing I learned about the flea, is that it can’t be plucked and squished with your fingers.  Fleas have an extremely hard exoskeleton that protects them from being squished and killed easily.  Fleas must be killed by rolling them between your fingers and then squeezing them in between two fingernails, or crushing them between two hard objects.   Fleas can also be killed by using adhesive tape, drowning in water and direct contact with anti-flea pesticides.

Fleas can survive two months to a year between meals. A flea population is unevenly distributed, with 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 10% pupae, and 5% adults. Their total life cycle can take as little as two weeks, but may be as long as many months if conditions are favorable. Female fleas can lay 500 or more eggs over their life, allowing for phenomenal growth rates.

It is a common Myth at fleas don’t bite people.  Fleas often bite people and can cause itching and rashes and even skin infections in some people.

Flea's affects on human skin

Prior to an Infestation

Educate yourself about flea products, not all products are created equal.  Flea collars are ineffective and do little to no good for most pets.  Sprays and flea baths can be effective if the product is made by a good manufacturer, however if you use topical flea medications like Frontline® frequent baths can wash away the expensive prescription medication you are using.

Speak to your local veterinarian about prescription products to help keep your best friend flea free.  The recommendation of products depends on your vet, your pet and the dynamics of your particular geographical area and the propensity for flea infestation.  Prescription products are the best, and there is even a monthly pill that can be given to help your pet be more comfortable.  Even ONE flea can cause severe reaction, itching and allergies in some dogs.

Skin Damage Caused by Fleas

After an Infestation

Once you have recognized fleas on your pet and you have sought the assistance of your vet to help kill the fleas on your pet, it is time to deal with the problem so that it doesn’t get worse or continue to plague you.

First is to treat your pet and give him some relief.  If untreated a flea infestation can lead to severe skin infection in pets.

Next you must treat the area your pet goes and resides.  You must treat the residence inside and outside to see improvement in this predicament.  There are products you can get to spray or bomb inside (pets, humans and fish must be removed in order to use indoor bombs) or you can contact a local pest company.

You must also treat the yard and any outdoor area your pet goes.  You can also find products at your local store to treat the outdoor area, or again you can contact a pest company that will treat the area for you.

The MOST IMPORTANT PART

You must treat the inside and the outside area once weekly with whatever product you desire weekly for at least 3 weeks.  Because there are many lifecycles of the flea, you must kill each lifecycle.  When you initially treat the area, you will kill the adult flea but not necessarily the pupae or the eggs which can be very resistant to insecticides.  Care must be taken for several weeks to kill all of the fleas and their offspring in the environment both indoors and out.

Flea infestation can cause severe problems for the humans and the pets in the environment.  Speak to your vet and come up with a plan to keep your home flea free, and if an infestation does erupt just be diligent in making sure all fleas have been killed and good luck!

Fleas; Your Dog’s Arch Enemy is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Here are some puppy training tips that you can use. First of all do not start your training too early. There are varied opinions about the right age for starting your puppy training.

One of the mostly agreed views is that you should not start your puppy training until your puppy is 3 months old. If you wait for too long before you started your puppy potty training, then it will be difficult to unlearn some of the habits your puppy would have already learned.

When it comes to dog training always remember that it is much easier to train your puppy on new habits rather than making them unlearn some of the habits they have already learned. That is why the age of the dog or puppy is a crucial factor for dog training.

When your puppy is still young, it would not have learned too many bad habits and even if they have a few bad habits, they would not have been reinforced strongly.

On the other hand if your dog grows up with bad habits for several years, then you will have tough time to get rid of those habits.

The next important factor that you should remember is that you should give your puppy or dog enough time to assimilate the new training that you are giving them. Give them time to learn the proper dog obedience. Do not expect them to obey your commands from day one. They need time to associate your commands with specific actions.

Do not try to train your dogs for eight hours a day just because you are free on a particular day. Do not try to train a dog too many things on the same day. At any given point of time, you should only teach one new command or trick. Only when your puppy understands your new command or trick, you should move to the next. Never compare your puppy’s performance with your neighbors or with your friend’s dog. Each one of them is different and treat them so.

Follow through is always very important. You must always start your training each day with the tricks or commands that you have already taught your puppy and make them repeat them each day so that the new tricks and commands will become part of them. Always set the pace of your training based on your puppies abilities.

Check out this page for more tips like these and other free dog training tips check

Dog Training Tips is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

The fourth of July can be overwhelming for your pets.  Even the most secure pet can show signs of apprehension and fear while fireworks are going on around them.  Not only are fireworks loud, your pet can also be frightened by the abnormal flashing of lights, the ear-piercing sound as the miniature missiles take flight and the smell of fire and burning debris; all of their senses can kick into the fight or flight response and send your pet fleeing in terror.  Some dogs may try to escape by jumping a fence, digging a hole or even breaking windows.

What to do?

Do not take your pet with you!  Most dogs find fireworks too overwhelming and they could break their leash or escape in an attempt to get away.  Your dog’s sense of smell, hearing and vision are all too keen for them to enjoy the merriment like we do, understand that they do not need to or want to be a part of the party.

Exercise your pet prior to the start of any fireworks!  Take your dog to the lake, hiking, biking, or fishing for the day anything that is sure to make him very tired in the evening and throughout the night.  Your dog will be better off if he is exhausted and sleeps through the impending festivities.

Keep your pets indoors throughout the night.  If you must take your pet outside do it before it gets dark and if festivities have begun put your pet on a leash.

Make sure your pet has a current I.D. tag on in case of an emergency.

Help Your Pet Endure Fireworks with Confidence

Prepare a secure indoor area where your pet will feel comfortable during the celebrations.  Remove any potentially dangerous objects from the room in case your pet becomes startled and tries to get away.

Pull all shades in order to decrease the visual effects.

Turn on and turn up some soothing music for your pet to help diminish the severity of the noises going on around them.

If possible, especially if you have a new pet, try and spend some quality time together playing games, training and bonding during this time.  Spending time together and mentally stimulating your dog will help to decrease anxiety by giving him something else to do and focus on and it ensures you are by his side in case of emergency.

Good luck and stay safe!

The Dangers of Fireworks and Your Pets is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Set Your New Puppy up for Success

My dogs are getting older, one is 10 and the other is 8 and I realized at the beginning of this year as I trained for a 5 mile race (not a 5k) I had no dog to train or run with because my dogs are too old to run so far, so I recently got a puppy.  Actually I picked her up on Sunday!  I forgot just how much work and effort a new little life is,  but it reminds me of the importance of setting your puppies up for success in the very beginning of life.

Before Your Puppy Comes Home

• Puppy proof your house!!!  You would baby proof your house if you had a toddler or a baby over, why would you not puppy proof things!  Pick up shoes and expensive items, put things in safe places, and make sure medications and cleaners are out of reach.
• Get a toy box for your baby and stock it FULL of a variety of items.  Puppies are tactile like babies they like to play with numerous types of toys so give them an opportunity to explore their environment the only way they can, with their mouths and teeth!  This will help them not use their teeth on you
• Buy a crate for crate training, one that will grow with your puppy as he grows.  If you are unable to come home and let your puppy out every few hours, specify a space i.e. kitchen, laundry room, bathroom for your puppy until he gains bladder control and can be crated for longer periods of time.

Potty Training

• I have had her for three days and at 8 weeks we have yet to have an accident around the house or anywhere else!
• Potty training for a puppy of 8 weeks is all about ME it isn’t even about her.  She is too young to be expected to hold her bladder for long or to alert me to her needs so it is my responsibility to get her outside about every 2 hours and after naps or eating or drinking or raucous play.  I have to monitor her food and water intake and gauge how often she will need to relieve herself.
• When she is outside, I keep her on a leash so that I can watch where she is going and what she is doing and how much volume is coming out.  Sometimes she gets distracted and I have to get her up and move her around in order to change her mind set.   Often she would rather pounce and play and put her mouth on everything instead of going potty, so I just move around the yard until she gets the idea and then I bring her inside when she is finished.

Setting Up for Success Around the House

• From the moment she stepped into this house she has been on a leash.  Keeping her on a long leash or long line prevents her from sneaking away and having an accident and it also keeps her from doing all kinds of other naughty behaviors.
• Although she has been great with the kids ages 2 to 15, when she does get out of control and wants to bite pants or hands and legs, I already have her on a leash and can prevent her from continuing these naughty behaviors.   I can redirect her energy toward her toys and interact with her in a healthy way.
• Having her on a leash also prevents her from chewing things that she shouldn’t  or things that might be dangerous for her.  Her leash is either attached to me or attached to a heavy piece of furniture (8ft leash or long line) in the room I am in, so I notice the moment her sharp little teeth grab something they shouldn’t have grabbed.  It also prevents her from grabbing naughty objects (underwear ha ha) and dashing around the house evading apprehension.  This evasion game is a favorite for most dogs but by keeping her under control and close she doesn’t even realize this game exists.
• This also helps with early training, it is never too early to begin training.  Keeping your dog on a leash and close to you gives him the manners he needs early in life to make a good pet and this keeps him from establishing problem behaviors that need to be fixed at a later date.  If she is on a leash, I am not going to let her, chase the cat, grab food from the table, jump up on me etc.  Doesn’t it make more sense to teach your pup correct principles from the start?  Don’t WAIT till there is a problem, curb the problems from ever rearing their ugly heads!

Socialization

• I have a very short period of time to socialize her to as many people and things as possible before she starts to form opinions about everything on her own.  Puppies who are not socialized early are dealt such a disservice.  Puppies and children are capable of learning and experiencing more while they are young, if you wait too long the window of opportunity closes and it becomes a much more difficult process.
• Get your puppy out and start socializing.  Keep in mind that your puppy is not safe from diseases until they are 16 weeks or so and have received their last set of boosters and the rabies vaccination so do not socialize in unknown or uncontrolled areas or with unknown dogs!
• You can, however, start socializing your puppy with sociable dogs that you know and you know are well vaccinated.  Not all dogs like puppies, puppies can be quite irritating to older and geriatric dogs so use caution and set up play dates with dogs that are known to be good with puppies.
• Start socializing your pup with all shapes, sizes, ages and colors of people.  Puppies need to be introduced to all varieties of people, especially children and people who might be interpreted as different.  This early socialization forms a strong foundation for your dog as it grows to be accepting of people from all walks of life.  They should get use to seeing people with hats on and people who limp etc. so they accept differences in people as normal.
• It is also essential to get them use to a variety of noises and environmental challenges.  I often like to sit outside of my local Wal-Mart with my pup on my lap so they can watch people and carts coming and going and get use to the normal sounds and spice of life.

This early socialization is crucial to a well rounded out going dog!

You have a lot of work to do, and so do I!  Get your puppy out and set him up for success.  It is our responsibility as doggy parents to make certain that we are setting our dogs up for becoming the best pets possible!  Dogs are and investment in not only money but also time, effort and emotional bonding, we owe it to ourselves and to them to give them the skills they need to thrive.

Puppies 101 is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

This is the time of year for afternoon thunderstorms.  Many dog’s suffer from thunderstorm phobia, and sometimes it seems the older the dog gets the more severe the phobia becomes.

Because we are not dogs, we can only hypothesize how dogs feel when it storms, but for some dogs storms truly cause a panic attack.  This can actually be life threatening in some cases; because some dogs run away, break through windows and some have even been reported to jump from secondstory windows causing mutilation and even death.

Some experts hypothesize that the electrical current in the air actually has a shocking affect for some dogs.  This theory may explain why some dogs choose to lay in the bathroom, bathtub or behind the toilet because the porcelain does not conduct the shock.  Some people report success from rubbing their dogs down with dryer sheets prior to a storm.  This may help to lessen or take away the electrical stimulation.

Some say that the drop in barometric pressure and the boom of the thunder and the crack of the lightning may actually cause pain because dogs hearing is so much keener than ours.

No matter what the cause, it is essential to help our dogs to deal with this phobia or to help them never develop it.

Alleviate the Problem:

• Got a puppy or a new dog?  When the storm begins, the barometric pressure drops and the booming starts; begin playing with your pup.  If thunderstorms equal fun and games; your dog will look forward to the event rather than fearfully awaiting its arrival. I also take this time to distribute great treats and chewies that may take a long period of time to chew; rawhides, bully sticks, and all kinds of edible bones and toys can be used to keep your dog’s mine off the impending storm.  I also crank up the radio and blast out some tunes in order to keep the sound from being overwhelming.  Any event that can be perceived as scary, should be turned toward fun and exciting.
• On the evening of the fourth of July I often play outside games and do scent work around the neighborhood so that the sounds are not overpowering they become the background to the fun that they are experiencing.

Dealing with the Problem Once it arises:

Even though I spent hours and years desensitizing my dogs to storms after one of my dog’s ear drums rupture he has experienced some noise phobia since and my oldest has watched him in his fervor and developed some of the same problems; so I know it can happen to anyone.

Desensitization

• This is the first thing to try and although it takes time it is often very effective.  Start with whatever stimulus first elicits signs of nervousness.  Pair the drop in pressure or the darkening of skies with treats, games and praise. Your goal is for your dog to emotionally respond to thunder as a predictor of something good.  You need to make the first signs of the storm induce happiness and relaxation.  If you have been working hard on getting eye contact and focus, you can also use this to help calm your dog before and during a storm.  Give him a command that he can be successful at achieving which will give him something else to think about.  Run through his tricks or commands, take him out before the storm and play ball and make this time fun for him.

Give Him a Safe Haven

• Designate an enclosed area for him to get away from the storm; a closet, in the bathroom, in his crate or wherever he might feel comfortable and add your tricks for desensitization here while the storms rage.  Crank some tunes and try to preoccupy him from thinking about the storm and hopefully the next time the storm begins he will rush to his safe haven to find comfort.
• Acupressure and Acupuncture has even been reported to help and be an effective tool for dogs with thunderstorm phobias.  Contact your local veterinarian to find a vet that provides Acupuncture.

Noise Therapy

• There are CDs you can use that mimic the sounds of thunderstorms and you can use them to help with your program of desensitization.  Start by playing the CD on low and then slowly increase the sound as your dog is more successful.
• Leeds and Wagner have developed music specifically designed to calm dogs. Their work is based on solid biological principles. You can read more about it, and get a CD or download the music by googling Through a Dog’s Ear.

Medications

• Homeopathic remedies, pheromone plug ins, flower essences and melatonin have been used and success has been shown.  A book called “The Big Bang” by Claudeen McAuliffe offers even more suggestions and tips on helping your dog with his phobia.
• Last but not least is prescription medications; if all else fails or you are not seeing victory quickly enough, talk to your veterinarian.  Thunderstorm phobia is so severe in some dogs that drugs have been specially designed to help them deal with storms.  Sometimes this is the best option for people who have to work during critical storm hours.  Often medications are only successful with desensitization and behavior modification.
  

  Is Your Dog Scared of Storms?

Thunderstorm phobia can be horrifying for your pet, but with some time, effort and dedication you can give your dog the tools needed to deal with his fears!

Preparing and Dealing with Thunderstorms is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Probably the second most important facet in dog training is exercise.  Those of you who are getting use to my writing know that I think the number one most important point of good dog training is mental stimulation, but the next most important is exercise!  When I trained police dogs, I often had them run next to my bicycle or scooter until they were exhausted.  They needed the physical exercise to calm their minds and spirits.

Most all dogs and people can benefit to adding to their exercise regimen, unless of course they have a heart condition.  Exercise lowers our blood pressure, can uplift our moods, and can even decrease our chances for developing certain diseases.  These benefits are also obtainable to your dog.

A tired dog is a good dog!!  This is probably my favorite quote, and the truest statement in dealing with your dog.  There are many ways to attain a tired dog, but exercise is a fairly easy way to get what you want.

Almost 100% without a doubt when I do a behavior consult with someone having difficulty with their dog, I recommend increasing the amount of exercise their dog is getting.  Dogs without exercise and mental stimulation begin to rot mentally and that leads to a lot of naughtiness and problem behaviors.  Dogs that have jobs and work all day for their people or those that get a lot of exercise are much less likely to suffer from behavior problems.  Exercise is also helpful for almost all behavior problems, it very rarely increases problems.

Imagine taking a room full of small children locking them up and not giving them any exercise or allowing them to play or to mentally stimulate themselves; they would go insane and they would drive YOU insane.  The more exercise, learning and structure our children get the happier they are and less they likely they are to get into trouble.  Your dog has the same requirements, but most people buy a dog and expect it to take care of its own needs.  Dogs require stimulation and exercise to be happy.

Almost all dogs can benefit from exercise; fat dogs, old dogs, young dogs, skinny dogs, puppies can all benefit from an exercise program.  You may have to cater an exercise program to fit your dog’s needs but in any case most dogs need some way to rid themselves of excess steam.

The joy of exercise is that it comes in all forms; hiking, biking, swimming, walking, running, skijoring, retrieving, games, weight pulling, drafting and numerous others all qualify as good forms of exercise.  If you do it right, you and your dog will never tire of a boring routine.

Take Your Dog Running; You Will Both Reap the Benefits

• Just take caution with puppies and geriatric dogs.  Puppies of medium to large breeds should not exercise on hard ground or pull weights until they are at least 2 years old, extra large breeds like Rottweilers and Great Danes should wait until they are 3 or until their vet says it is safe.  Excessive exercise on growing dogs can cause the breakdown of cartilage and bones and can cause dysplasia and arthritis.  Young dogs and puppies must be exercised on soft ground.  Geriatric dogs should be allowed to lightly exercise to build muscles and flexibility which can also help with arthritis.

The majority of people who have dogs that are suffering from behavior problems have adult dogs between the ages of 1-5 and this is the time when exercise is at its most important!  Adult dogs should be exercised at a minimum of 3 times a day, morning, afternoon and evening.  Adding exercise will help to decrease your dog’s boredom and increase his success of becoming a good pet.

No Matter What You Choose, Make Sure You Are Reaching Your Dog's Fitness Needs

“I don’t have time to exercise my dog!”

“My dog has a big back yard to run in he doesn’t need exercise”

I have heard all of the excuses!  Your dog is an investment not only in money but also in time and companionship.  Your dog has needs and sometimes you have to inconvenience yourself in order to ensure success and happiness for your dog.  Get up early if you have to, or go to bed later but make sure you are devoting the time he needs to his success as a good companion and friend.

Dog’s don’t “run laps” on their own, very rarely do dogs utilize a big back yard as a means to exercise and run out their energy.  Even with the biggest back yard or acres to run he needs someone else to help him and encourage him to exercise.  He is not going to set his own exercise goals, you have to do that for him.

If you sincerely want to give your dog a shot at being a good pet and pleasing you, you need to give him sufficient exercise.  Not only will his body benefit from the payback of exercise, but he will be spending time with you listening to your voice and hopefully working on obedience and your bond as he exercises and becomes weary.

Let him run next to a bike, take him swimming, have him pull a tire; whatever you decide that is appropriate for his breed, age, size and his abilities allow him to blow off steam in a constructive manner and you will see the benefits through his behavior in a few short days!

Exercise the Crucial Element is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Relaxation and meditation is known for having such health benefits as decreased heart and respiratory rates and decreasing anxiety.  Relaxation can also be taught to your dog as a conditioned response.    Just like Pavlov taught a dog to drool in response to the ringing of a bell, you can teach your dog to decrease his anxiety, and relax in times of stress.  This type of training can be essential for owners looking for ways to help treat dogs with behavior problems and anxiety disorders, and is also crucial for any good training program.

Often, I think we unknowingly condition our dogs to get excited as a response to most exciting things that go on in our world.  Our dogs are unknowingly conditioned to get overly excited when people come over to visit, when we take them out on a leash, when we come home; almost everything we do in some ways encourages our dogs to get excited.

Let me explain; when people come over it is normal for most dogs to get excited the inherent problem therein lies when we allow them to be rewarded for this behavior, we pet them, we allow our company to pet them or we shriek at them to get down and get off of people; therefore giving them attention for their poor behavior.  After a few visits, this excitement, which has previously been rewarded, gets to be the custom and your dog thinks he must show this behavior in order to be interacted with; i.e. a conditioned response to exciting stimulus.

I once worked with a client who allowed his dog to bark and scream and pull him toward the beach each time they arrived.  When the dog was a puppy, he thought it was cute, but he didn’t realize he was conditioning the barking and screaming and pulling as a response to being at the beach.  The dog thought this was a part of a ritual he had to perform to get to the beach.  We had to regress and teach this dog calming techniques and teach him that only when he was calm was he allow access to walks and play on the beach.  They had to drive to and away from the beach several times before the dog realized that he would only be rewarded while he was calm.

Relaxation must be taught as a response to exciting stimulus, and can even be used to help focus dogs with mild aggression problems.  (Dogs with severe aggression problems should seek the advice of a Veterinary Behaviorist before trying any training program.)  Do not pet or reward your dog if he is showing signs of stress, teach him to be calm.

Take your dog to a quiet room, one that is free of distractions.  Next take a treat in each hand and show them both to your dog, then bring them up toward your eyes.  Your dog should look from one treat to another and back and forth until finally in a moment of frustration he looks directly into your pupils.  As his eyes look into yours tell him what he is doing by saying “Watch” in a calm tone.  Dogs often mirror our behavior, in order to teach your dog to be calm you must show the same attributes.  After a few brief seconds of holding your gaze, praise and give your dog the treat.  If your dog is tense, do NOT reward!  If he is showing signs of stress stop this lesson and try again later.   Do not reprimand him, just discontinue the session.

Your dog MUST be relaxed!!  Relaxation is the purpose of this exercise.  Your dog’s posture should be malleable and tranquil, if he is stiff, trembling or shivering then try again later.  His pupils should be small in size not large and hard.

Continue this until he is readily looking into your eyes.  Once you think your dog has mastered this command, take the treats away from your eyes and take them out at arm’s length out to each side.  If your dog is still staring deep into your eyes and not looking at your hands your dog has mastered the command.  If your dog is still watching the treats in your hands, he is not yet ready.

If you are having trouble getting your dog to relax, try this exercise just after your dog has taken a nap and is already relaxed, or when he is tired, just prior to a nap.

Once your dog is looking at you in a peaceful manner, hold the treat behind your back and give the “watch” command.  Wait until eye contact is made then reward.  If your dog can do this with no problem, wait to reward until he holds your gaze for a longer period of time.  Every time you change the difficulty level expect some failures and just back up a few steps in training if needed.  DO NOT get frustrated, this does not encourage relaxation, simply back up and praise him for something that is easier for him to achieve.

Practice on and off throughout the day at random times.  Just remember not to reward your dog for any signs of stress i.e. panting, whining, crying, pacing or trembling.  Extend this until he can stare into your eyes for 15 to 20 seconds.

Once your dog is 95% reliable with the command in an environment without distractions, take him to a room with a few distractions (like windows or your kids playing).  When he has mastered (95% reliable) in a room with minor distractions, take him outside to the backyard and work until he has mastered the command in that environment.  As he masters the command in a multitude of environments you can continue to increase the level of difficulty while still expecting some failure or learning events, just back up in your training as these occur.  Remember don’t get frustrated, this is a normal step when learning any new behavior.

When your dog can stare into your eyes reliably with a multitude of distractions, you can begin using this command for all kinds of situations:

• When you have a dog that is fearful or mildly aggressive
• In situations when you are unsure how your dog will react
• To bring your dog’s focus and attention back to you before you give a command or after a distraction is added
• And even when preparing for competition obedience

Eye contact is the foundation to good obedience, and it is a great way to strengthen the bond between you and your canine companion.

Training for a Relaxed and Calm Dog is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Questions:

1) Clearly discribe the problem you want to fix with your dog.

2) Describe the training concepts you’ve tried that HAVE worked.

3) And I need you to describe the training concepts that DON’T seem to be working.

Looking forward to reading your questions!

Chet

Want My Personal Help w/Your Dog… Just answer These 3 Questions is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog