There are a lot of great memories of this car. I purchased it at the now defunct Allied Hobbies in Montgomery Mall, Montgomeryville, PA, USA. At around $150 for the kit alone, it wasn’t cheap, especially for a kid working part time making minimum wage. But, Tamiya has a way of roping us in.

First, there’s the overall size of the box. Just the right chunky dimensions to convince you that there’s something substantial inside. Then there’s the exsquisite artwork on the front of the box, designed to be a combination of the actual model, and the real vehicle.

All around the sides of the box are various engineering drawings and schematics to give one a real sense of what they’re buying. How can anyone resist? I remember wanting it just so I could see the suspension built up and up close. Also, at that time, I didn’t know of any RC car that could run off road. This seemed truly revolutionary to me. The RC cars I had up to this time were very much toys. Slow, cheap, and real battery hogs. The Rough Rider was followed up by the incredibly successful Sand Scorcher. It used the same chassis, drive and suspension components as the Rough Rider, but had different body, wheels and tires.

So you buy the thing, take it home, and now the fun begins. Tamiya continues the visual spectacle when you open the box. Various mechanical parts are neatly arranged and labled under vaccu-formed blisters. You’ll notice right away the plethora of metal parts, most notably, the intricately molded metal weatherproof gearbox flanked by the two rear tires. Also striking is the, for the time, monster-sized 540 electric motor. I remember thinking how big and powerful it looked when compared against the rc toys of the day. Today, of course, the 540 sized motor is standard stuff.

Closeup of the box interior.

More parts in the kit.

Another shot of my original Rough Rider, taken in the Fall of 1981, just after I built it. For power, the only viable option back then was the Tamiya “Hump Pack” battery, given its name by the characteristic “hump” in its case. It was a 6-cell nicad pack producing 7.2 volts at 1200mah. It gave the heavy, power-hungry Rough Rider about 10 minutes of run time. The hump was Tamiya’s way of putting an extra battery cell in a case with the same length and width as their 5 cell 6 volt pack that was commonly used in their various on-road cars. This preceded the now popular “stick pack”. This battery set me back over $30 in 1981. The two channel Futaba radio was another $99! So, let’s see, $150 for the kit, $30 for the battery, $99 for the radio, $150+$30+$99+sales tax = $300!!! I could have bought a real car for that much in 1981!!!!

I wish I still had my original Rough Rider. Sadly, as parts broke and were no longer available, it languished in storage and eventually, after several moves, it disappeared. I picked this Rough Rider off of ebay. For the collector, ebay has been a great place to pick up spare parts, entire vehicles, and even unassembled vintage kits. The only downside is the prices are usually at a premium, driven up by a fairly large community of collectors. Occassionally, you might come across some old stuff in at a hobby shop or at a garage sale, but ebay is hard to beat with the quantity, quality and ease of finding what you need.

This Rough Rider came fully equipped with vintage Kraft gear. This is a two channel single-stick transmitter. The car is steered with the stick while the speed is controlled by a slider on the left side of the center power switch.

Since it was in relatively good shape to begin with, I began restoring this Rough Rider. First, the decals were peeled off, then paint was removed with a product called Motsenbockers Lift Off Spray Paint and Graffiti Remover (Google it and you find it easily). This was then followed by a shot of primer. I usually shoot it with primer first because primer reveals imperfections in the surface. If the imperfections are small enough, like light scracthes, a few coats of primer will fill them, otherwise I use putty.

With the help of my friend Bill, owner of Joe’s Auto Body and Restoration, we laid down a base coat of Tamiya orange (TS-12). Yes, we started with the orange first instead of the white. This was done when looking over the model and planning the masking tape job. It just seemed easier to put the orange down first, especially for the front. Once the orange had a few days to dry, I did the masking tape edging for the white areas.

Once at the body shop, the rest of the orange was covered up so only the soon-to-be-white areas were exposed.

Next came a dusting of Racing White (TS-7) to seal up the tape edges. Some prefer Tamiya’s Pure White (TS-26), but the box for the Rough Rider spare body indicates the white as TS-7 Racing White. Racing White has more of an off-white cream tone to it. Oddly enough, none of the Rough Rider assembly manuals indicate a color code for either the orange or the white.

See, no problems with covering up the orange with the white.

After pulling off the tape (my favorite part), all the hard work pays off. Next comes the clear coat, followed by the black anti-glare patch on the hood just in front of the cockpit.

A coating of clear coat gives the paint a wet, shiny look and smooths out the surface nicely. Next came the flat black anti-glare patch on the hood just in front of the cockpit. I also painted the underside flat black to cover up the white and orange overspray and give it a nice even look. Decals next!

Decals, thirty in all, have been applied. The decals used are original Tamiya Rough Rider decals and are almost 30 years old! It’s surprising that the adhesive is still perfectly sticky after all these years. A good tip for getting decals nice and straight is to cut a thin vertical (top to bottom) or horizontal (left to right) slit out of the center decal backing to expose a small amount of the decal adhesive. Use the exposed adhesive to “tack” the decal in place and then align the decal properly. Once alignment as been achieved, remove the remaining decal backing and press the decal into place. As a shortcut, I simply pulled the decal backing about halfway back, cut off the exposed backing, and then put it back in place, slightly offset, to expose decal adhesive roughly in the middle of the decal.

Painting and decaling the spotlights came next. Decaling the front of the spotlights is a bit tricky because the fronts are so very slightly curved. This can lead to wrinkling of the decal and/or eventual “lifting” of the decal on the edges. To prevent this, I quickly clear-coated the decals once they were in place with Tamiya Clear. Make sure to press the edges of the decals down firmly to prevent clear coat from seeping underneath.

Painting the driver is not one of my favorite activites. It has to be done largely by hand with small brushes and I’m not very good at it. One thing that helps me do an acceptable job is to use a workshop magnifying glass to magnify the driver figure’s head. It tricks me into making the small and subtle movements necessary to do a good job. The results are “good enough” for me. Without the magnifying glass, it would impossible for me to do a decent enough job.

White-lettering the tires is a real nice detail touch. Some people use a brush, but I got a tip from tamiya101.com to use a small phillips head screwdriver instead. It holds paint nicely at the tip, and you can use it like a pen to “draw” the lettering in between the raised lines.

Ta-dah! The finished product!

Well worth the effort, don’t ya think? I want to get outside and take some shots of the Rough Rider in it’s outdoor element, but today was pretty crappy weather, so it’s just studio shots for now.

It’s great to restore an old buggy like the one above, but it would also be great if we could buy one new for cheap (less than $1000). Can it be done? Yes! Tamiya has released the Rough Rider as the Buggy Champ. It’s slightly different than the original, but improved in a number of ways without detracting too much from the charm of the original.

Compare these photos of the new Buggy Champ to the old Rough Rider. Wow, pretty cool, even down to the box artwork and blister parts packaging. See my Buggy Champ article for more details on this incredible kit!

Vintage Tamiya Scorcher Video (and others) here.

[wordbay]tamiya rough rider[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-09-06 18:50:48.

The post Tamiya Rough Rider (1979, 2009) first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

There aren’t many purple vehicles in the world, especially trucks, so when my interest turned to Tamiya’s truck line, the Aeromax immediately stood out as one of the more unusual offerings. I’m a fan of box stock paint/decal schemes, so of course mine will be purple too.

The transmission is one of the major points of interest. It is a 3-speed unit that allows the driver to shift the gears on the fly, just like the Bruiser and the Mountaineer, and the Hilux and Blazer before those. The major difference is the materials used in manufacturing. The older transmissions had all metal gearing inside of a metal housing. The Aeromax and new 3-speeds (like the F-350) use nylon gearing inside of a plastic housing. Only some structural components are made of metal.

Box art includes a color-coded view of the transmission, showing its internal components in their configuration for each of the three gears.

Additional box art shows the chassis component layout. This is a fairly complex model and Tamiya replicated a great deal of the real truck’s functionality.

An optional multi-function electronics package can be purchased and installed in the Aeromax (and other truck offerings from Tamiya). The multi-function set provides sound effects (engine, braking, starting, shut down), lights, trailer hitch/unhitch and engine vibration. This really adds to the realism and brings a whole new level to operation.

Assembly starts with the suspension. Here are the friction dampers and leaf springs.

Differentials. There are two.

Differentials and their springs and dampers installed.

Three-speed transmission assembly

Transmission installed in chassis.

Multifunction components are installed. Note eccentric flywheel in middle photo mounted on an electric motor. The sole purpose of this assembly is to vibrate the truck to simulate engine vibration! Now that’s realism! The photo to the right shows the major multifunction components installed in the chassis.

Body is painted an lights installed.

Trailer assembly. There are a number of different trailers available.

Assembled and ready to roll!

[wordbay]tamiya aeromax[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-03-16 09:11:00.

The post Tamiya Ford Aeromax first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

This three speeder tipped the scales at over 11 pounds. And Tamiya was proud of the Bruiser’s weight. Just watch Tamiya’s promo video for the Bruiser and you’ll hear the pride as the narrator boasts gravity’s effect on this monster.

The box is huge. And loaded with enough metal parts to fill a scrapyard. Tamiya doesn’t disappoint with the packaging. Many parts are neatly arranged in labeled blister packs. The larger parts, like the body and tires, all have their place.

Box art provides detailed views of the Bruiser’s innards and mechanical layout. Highlights include the three speed transmission cutaway, and the chassis including the monster 4000mah 6v NiCad battery. This giant (and heavy) battery gave the Bruiser claimed run times of 30min.

This is my assembled Bruiser runner. It runs on a vintage 4000mah battery. I still get almost 30min of run time, even though this batter is over 20yrs old.

[wordbay]tamiya bruiser[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-10-09 20:19:08.

The post Tamiya Bruiser (1985, 2012) first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

The artwork on the box is the same as on the original, including the small thumbnail of the chassis in the upper right corner.

This shot of the chassis is from the side of the box and details the chassis components nicely. The Brat uses the same chassis as the Frog.

Also on the side of the box are detailed artworks on the suspension components.

A color-coded engineering drawing is standard fare on Tamiya packaging.

The motor drivetrain components are illustrated along with suggested radio and battery gear.

Box contents.

New for the re-issue is an electronic speed controller and second body shell in polycarbonate.

Nice thing about these re-issues is that many of their parts can be used to update other vintage Tamiya models. In this case, the Subaru Brat uses the same wheels and tires that are on the Ford Ranger F150 XLT. In addition to the Ranger, the tires are the same as the rear tires on the Rough Rider and Fast Attack Vehicle.

[wordbay]tamiya subaru brat[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-07-17 16:08:13.

The post Tamiya Subaru Brat (1983, 2007) first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

The UP EMD 8 City Trains were often pulled by an A-B-B consist. What you see here is the combo A-B unit set and a separate B unit. All units are powered and have DCC Sound.

Typical of many Walthers locomotives, there is some assembly required. There are some optional detail parts like window wind deflectors and the engineer figures, as well as clear windows for the number markers (they are backlit). A decal sheet with a variety of numbers allows the owner to choose the number to be applied to the marker lights.

It’s a looooong gaggle of motive power, beautifully detailed with separate grab irons all over the units, etched metal grilles running across the sides, and sharp paint and graphics. If you’ve got a big monitor, the picture above will expand to a max of 2048 pixels when you click on it.

With many manufacturers turning out fantastic products like this, it’s a great time to be a model railroader!

Here is the entire City Train consist (minus one dome car on layout clearance-checking duty) on my club’s layout:

Here is a previous test run video of the Walthers EMD E8 A-B-B consisit:

[wordbay]walthers e8[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-08-13 17:23:18.

The post Walthers Proto 2000 EMD E8 UP City Train first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

This is the first plastic edition of any loco that I’ve seen exceed the level of detail normally found only in brass.

This marks Intermountain’s third release of these locos. The first two runs also had exquisite detail, but were prone to drivetrain problems stemming from an undersized motor and excessive force from the electrical contact wipers. Many hobbyists remedied these problems themselves, but not without a lot of hard work. Seems the detail on the loco, while looking fantastic, made it very difficult to get inside the loco to make the necessary modifications.

Intermountain now uses a drivetrain from Northwest Short Line. I’ve used components from NWSL in the past and they are of fine quality, and used by many other hobbyists when the need arises to upgrade an existing drivetrain, like say, refurbishing an old brass loco.

As you can see from the photos, detail is superb. I actually find it difficult to find a spots where I can safely grip the loco in order to pick it up. There’s so many fine detail parts. I guess that’s the one down side of plastic, is that the small parts are not quite as strong as brass.

Plenty of detail on the tender as well, including the four operating water hatches on the rear deck.

Here’s a video of the cab forward taking a lap on the club layout:

[wordbay]intermountain cab forward[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-07-20 16:22:44.

The post Intermountain Cab Forward first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

As usual, the packaging is an engineering feat in and of itself, with key parts and features illustrated on the front.

Wheels are going together in this photo. There are twelve in all.

Wheels mounted on lower chassis hull. Each wheel is independently sprung for true realism.

Jumping way ahead here (I didn’t take a lot of construction photos), the electronics and mechanicals are stuffed inside and the turret and gun are mounted. Pre-assembled tracks and rear drive sprocket are installed as well. I have better construction photos of other Tamiya full option tanks if you want to see what goes into them. It’s generally the same across all models.

Painted and ready to team up with the Sherman for a head-to-head with the Axis!

Short video of a Pershing sneaking up on a King Tiger.

[wordbay]tamiya pershing full option[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-07-26 16:29:44.

The post Tamiya Pershing – Full Option R/C Kit first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

In real life, the 934 was a race-ready turbocharged 911 variant that you could buy from your local Porsche dealer for a small fortune. In releasing the 934 as an R/C kit, Tamiya created a template for many R/C models to follow. The first thing anyone notices is the beautiful artwork on the front of the box.

Inside, Tamiya neatly arranged the items and put many of the metal parts under blister pack.

Additional box are shows a semi-transparent cutaway of the inside of the model.

Also on the box is a engineering schematic highlighting the major parts and layout of the model.

The old saying “they sure don’t make them like they used to” certainly applies here. When first making R/C kits, it was apparent that Tamiya was drawing on it’s vast experience as a plastic model company. It’s no doubt that many of the body components in the R/C kit were taken directly from their static 934 kit.

This is about as basic as it gets. Chassis is a stamped aluminum plate with plenty of flex (it served double-duty as the car’s “suspension”). In the center is a battery holder for four “C” sized cells. Behind the battery holder is the speed controller with two wipers-one for forward and one for reverse directions. Propelling the vehicle is a smallish 380 size electric motor, but the car could be retro-fitted with an optional 540 sized motor and mount.

[wordbay]tamiya 934[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-08-10 17:16:58.

The post Tamiya Porsche 934 (1976) first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

I’ve been after a Cineroc on and off for many, many years. I finally managed to acquire one through a private sale and was very pleased.

The Cineroc was produced from about 1970 – 1975. Rumor has it that production stopped when the tiny motor that drove the camera’s mechanisms was no longer available from the supplier. Due to their short production run, Cinerocs are very collectable amongst rocketry enthusiasts, and perhaps cinematographers as well.

Upon initial inspection of the parts, its relatively unimpressive, but that’s what makes it so impressive. The Cineroc is a marvel in simplicity. Its light, compact and sturdy, with few moving parts for dependability. The Cineroc carried about 20 seconds of super 8mm movie film in a special cartridge. The lens of the camera peers out a hole in the side of the nose cone payload section, and the mirror angles the view 90 degrees downward. The view as seen on the film is the ground pulling away as the rocket ascends. The second picture shows a close-up of the camera motor and shutter wheel. The motor is geared to the shutter wheel and you can see the shutter aperture in the wheel. The camera’s frame rate was about 30 frames-per-second which provided a slow motion effect when played normally at 18 frames per second. 20 seconds of film was enough to capture all of the ascent stage to parachute deployment and a few seconds after that.

The inside of the box has a special cardboard container to hold the main parts of the camera and cone securely and separate from each other. Additional box contents include the parachute, shock cord, package of super 8mm movie film in a special cartridge and drive pulley.

Further views of the Cineroc from left to right are the (1) batteries, film cartridge and packaging, (2) camera, film cartridge and drive pulley, and (3) a close-up of the film cartridge showing the exposed strip of film. The film and batteries have long since expired, but they are so rare, even beyond the rareness of the camera itself, that even in their expired state, they are very valuable and essential to completing the overall package. The film cartridge is only held together with Scotch tape, so if I ever decide to fly the Cineroc, I could load it with fresh film quite easily.

The cover of the operating manual has some frames of actual movie footage from the Cineroc on the cover. The angle of view is clear; looking straight down to the ground as the ground dropped away during flight.

Above are a few shots from the user manual. Second picture from the left shows a parts breakdown with identification. Launch tips are in the next two.

The second Cineroc came with the full assortment of supplemental literature, decals and some crazy wire used to test the camera’s operation. Note the second picture from the left has a sticker with a return address and a reward offer. You would stick it on the camera just in case the camera drifted away during a launch and got lost. Whoever might find it could be enticed into returning the camera to the owner in order to collect the reward.

The “battery tester” wire was used to ensure that the batteries had sufficient power to operate during flight. These were not high-capacity batteries. You could get 1-2 flights on a fresh set and then they would have to be replaced, which is why they were included in each film pack. Because they had a short shelf life, you were encouraged to test the batteries before flight with the testing kit provided.

This is a collection of factory photos. They came with the purchase of the first Cineroc and are each 8 x 10 glossies. The recommended launch vehicle for the Cineroc was the Estes Omega two-stage D powered rocket above. The whole outfit was an attractive package in my opinion. I have managed to obtain an unassembled Omega from the seller of the camera, but I’m going to practice making a copy of the Omega from parts first before I assemble the real thing.

From the left, the first picture is my attempt to make an Estes Omega clone as pictured above. I have a set of replica decals from Excelsior Rocketry but I had to make my own “Cineroc” decals. The second picture shows the Cineroc decal applied to the camera housing. Also in the picture is the blue and black Cineroc/Omega decal for the rocket body.

The Omega clone now decked out in white primer. Its flanked by the Camroc and latest generation of the Astrocam. The Camroc is sitting on a clone of the Astron Delta two stage carrier. The Camroc could also be lofted by the Camroc Carrier rocket, a single stage rocket produced by Estes.

This is a very rare roll of 8mm footage that was actually produced by Estes. The movie is a promotional piece showing prepping and launching of a Cineroc. Several flight sequences from the camera are included. Some of the sequences are in slow motion; there’s a clip from a three-stage rocket. Another clip appears to be from a Cineroc shooting out the side and catching its own booster on parachute. I consider this a very lucky find.

Here is the entire Estes movie. I converted it to video using my own video camera so the results aren’t great. There is some flickering and the colors are off. Eventually, I will have it done professionally and have them apply color correction if possible. (24mb Windows Media format)

Check out this Cineroc movie (courtesy Mike Jerauld). Mike had a very cool story on his website about getting a Cineroc from a friend’s attic, taking it to a big rocket launch in 2000, meeting Vern Estes there, and actually having Vern launch the Cineroc! I can’t find his website any more, but it was a great story. Hope he doesn’t mind me posting his video here.

Update 7/13/2008: Thanks to Bohus over at retrothing.com, the Estes Cineroc promo video has been properly digitized on professional film transfer equipment. Once I received the digitized original, I used Adobe Premiere CS4 to do some color and contrast correction. It’s not perfect, but considering the color-shifted and faded original, I think it’s an improvement. Check out these before and after screen grabs.

Example 1: Before

Example 1: After

Example 2: Before

Example 2: After

So here’s the entire video now posted on YouTube:

[wordbay]estes cineroc[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2014-06-12 19:41:22.

The post Estes Cineroc (1970) first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.

OK, next to the Overland Models UP Coal Turbine #80, the UP Turbine #1 and #2 were my second of two “holy grails” of model train collecting.

The Union Pacific railroad was never afraid to try anything new. Wanting to try an alternative to conventional steam power, UP worked with General Electric and began building two experimental oil-fired steam turbine locomotives in 1936. Simply named #1 and #2, UP took delivery of the locomotives in April, 1939. Oil was fired to heat the water from a 50 gallon tank into steam. The steam turned a turbine which turned a generator to power electric traction motors. The steam was then collected and condensed back into water through condenser units in the rear. Slats in the rear side panels opened and closed automatically depending on outside air temperature and density to regulate the airflow through the condensers. These steam turbines were the first of their kind in North America. They each produced 2400hp and were often run together as a pair. Because of the need for unrestricted, smooth airflow into the condenser units, the locomotives had to be run nose-to-tail, instead of the more common tail-to-tail.

Sadly, the locomotives proved unreliable in service and were returned to GE in June, 1939 after only two months in operation. #1 and #2 were the only steam powered locomotive GE ever built.

Word War II put tremendous strain on the railroad system in the US, and UP Turbine #1 and #2 were briefly brought out of retirement. They were painted dark gray and renamed to GE 1 and 2. During 1943, they were leased to the Great Northern Railway for nearly a year for wartime short-haul freight service in Washington, performing without major failure. By late 1943, they were returned to GE and retired and later scrapped.

If one wants to run the Overland Models #1 paired with a #2 as the prototypes did, one has to first find a #1, which is really hard. Even harder is finding a #2. Less of the #2’s were made (53 vs 72) and their current owners are not looking to part with them anytime soon. I know because I’ve been looking for one for what seems like forever. I finally found one online after many many searches. BrassTrains.com had just listed one when I happened to check the site quite by chance. It’s pictured above and is in excellent shape.

Funny thing about the number #2, BrassTrains also had a #1 listed. I already had the #1, but in my haste to secure the #2, I accidentally bought the #1. I recognized my error quickly, but the purchase had already been committed. So, I went right back in and bought the #2. I now have two #1’s so one will be sold, probably through ebay.

The two look awesome together. As mentioned previously, the prototypes ran like you see them here – nose to tail, or “elephant style” as it’s often referred.

So, it’s time to get these things all DCC’d up!

Installing DCC is fairly easy. Lighting was a bit more of a challenge. The models come equipped with factory lighting, but it consists of small incandescent bulbs which are not very bright and tend to burn out. I prefer to replace this type of lighting with LEDs of a ‘golden white’ color (a color which resembles the color of incandescent bulbs, but brighter). I’ve covered installing DCC and LED lighting in greater detail in two other posts – OMI ‘Big Blow’ turbine and OMI Coal Turbine #80 – but I would like to talk about one of the unique challenges with this model.

The UP #1 and #2 have lighted ‘winged’ UP badges on either side and just forward of the cab. They are translucent in the lighter areas of the badge itself so light can shine through. From the factory, they are lit from behind by three incandescent bulbs and as I stated before, they are very dim. They also do not light the badge evenly. The solution to this problem came from a crafty internet search (I’m really good at crafting search phrases to find what I want) that led me to a product called ‘side glow’ optical fiber.

I’ve used optical fiber a lot for various lighting effects in my DCC conversions, so I’m familiar with its properties. Side glow optical fiber differs from regular optical fiber in that it not only glows on the ends, it also glows along its length.  It’s not perfect – the glow fades as the distance from the light source increases, but for the short length that I would need behind each badge, it worked perfectly.

Here is a short length of side glow fiber under illumination from an LED that I glued onto the end. Note the glow along the entire length. The second photo shows emblem removed and the fiber sitting in a alcove previously occupied by the incandescent bulbs.

And here the emblem has been reinstalled and the lighting turned on. Notice the nice even illumination.

And here’s #1 and #2 with all lighting installed. The top light is a surface-mount LED (smd), the headlight a small LED bulb, and the two marker lights are (regular) optical fiber strands illuminated from the other end by LEDs. And of course, the ‘side glow’ illuminated badges.

Overall I love the effect.

And of course, the pair in all of their DCC glory.

The Overland Models #1 & #2 are very hard to find and pretty pricey. Alco Models made a really nice version of the #1, probably back in the 1970’s, but it’s actually a very nice model. It’s pictured here behind the OMI version. It’s a bit different in terms of detail and paint, but the detail is very nice to be sure and it runs super-smooth. I was quite surprised when I put it on the track and it just glided silently down the track. This is an old model, so to see it run so smoothly right out of the box is a testament to the quality.

The paint tones are slightly different between the OMI and Alco models, with the OMI brown having a more reddish hue to it, and the yellow being more saturated. But the detail on the Alco is really nice. Just like the OMI model, the condenser vanes are moveable and are linked together so they all move at once. The panels around the side windows are silver and I’m not sure which is really correct, or if they’re both correct and reflect different time periods. I was originally planning to make this a #2, but with the acquisition of the OMI #2, this Alco model will also be sold.

And finally, some video of this unique pair on the club layout:

[wordbay] overland models ho[/wordbay]

Originally posted 2015-10-12 20:19:47.

The post Overland Models UP Steam Turbine Number 1 & 2 first appeared on RC/GrabBag.com.