Creosote (Larrea Tridentata) / Photo by Steve Berardi

#1 – Get the best exposure possible

The best thing you can do to prevent posterization is to get the best possible exposure. You can do that by paying close attention to your RGB histogram. It’s extremely important to make sure you’re not overexposing ANY of the color channels, because that oversaturation of a channel is what causes posterization.

#2 – Use 16-bit post-processing

If you’re using the full version of Adobe Photoshop, then you can significantly reduce your chances of posterization by editing your photos in 16-bit mode. You can access this mode by going to the “Image–>Mode” menu and selecting “16-bits/channel.” There’s also an option for 32-bit mode, but since digital SLRs these days only have 14-bit A/D converters in them, you won’t gain anything by editing in 32-bit mode.

Also, when you export your RAW files, it’s important to export them into a 16-bit format (such as TIFF). If you’re using Adobe’s Camera Raw (ACR), then this is pretty simple: just click on that blue link under the image and select “16-bits/channel” in the “Depth” drop-drown list.

Unfortunately, this 16-bit mode isn’t available in Photoshop Elements, but don’t worry: editing in 16-bits isn’t nearly as important as getting the right exposure.

#3 – Be subtle with post-processing

With all the great tools we have now for editing digital images, sometimes it’s easy to go a little overboard with the post-processing. Yeah, saturated images always look great, but if you’re saturating them to the point where you notice posterization, then you’re probably doing a little too much. Be especially careful with those curves and levels adjustments, since those typically cause the most posterization.

What did I miss?

If you know of another way to prevent posterization in your images, then please tell us about it by leaving a comment below. Thanks!

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About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, software engineer, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of southern California.

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1. How to Reduce Noise in Your Photos
2. New eBook on Wildflower Photography!
3. 3 Great Articles on Color Management

Today, NASA released an incredible “blue marble” image of the Earth. It was created by combining a bunch of smaller photos to create one massive 64-megapixel image (8,000×8,000 pixels).

You can check out the full resolution image by clicking here.

Awesome.

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1. Evolution of a Nature Photograph
2. How to Photograph Landscapes With the Moon
3. Total Lunar Eclipse This Saturday

As nature photographers, we usually have to carry around a lot of gear with us. That gear can get pretty heavy, so it’s helpful to have a camera bag that fits all of your stuff AND is comfortable to wear. Well, a couple years ago I found what I consider the perfect backpack for a hiking photographer: the Lowepro Flipside 400AW.

Here’s a summary of what I like about the bag, and a few things I don’t like:

The Good

• Plenty of room for an assortment of lenses (I can fit one camera body, a 300mm lens, a 70-200mm, 17-40mm, and a set of extension tubes)
• Distributes weight extremely well with a waist belt and chest strap
• With the waist belt on, you can easily retrieve stuff from the bag without putting it on the ground
• You can easily attach an assortment of LowePro accessory bags to the side of the backpack, to store more lenses or water bottles
• The dividers inside the bag can easily be rearranged to organize the bag however you’d like
• There’s two extra straps on top of the bag that allow you to strap on a jacket or fleece or provide extra support for the tripod

Whenever I go out for a hike, I usually stay out from sunrise to sunset and hike an average of eight miles (I stop a lot for photos and reading, hehe), and this backpack has been perfect for that. It carries everything I need (including plenty of room for water), and I’ve never been sore at the end of the day.

The Bad

• The strap for securing the tripod isn’t sewn into the bag, so it’s likely to fall off if you forget to lock the strap after removing your tripod
• The side pockets aren’t large enough to fit a standard 32 oz Nalgene bottle, and LowePro no longer makes an accessory pouch that fits these bottles
• The all weather cover won’t cover the tripod too (it just covers the bag itself), but you can just put a large garbage bag in one of the side pockets and use that to cover the tripod when it rains

Out of these three things, the only one that really bothers me is the first one: that the tripod strap isn’t sewn into the bag. I’m still trying to figure out why LowePro did this, because it’s really annoying to have to remember to lock in the strap after removing the tripod. I already lost the strap once when I forgot to lock it in and it fell off, but luckily I found the strap when hiking the same area a week later. Other than this one tiny flaw though, I think the bag is perfect.

Video Tour of the Backpack

To get a better idea of what this backpack looks like, and what features it has, check out this video from LowePro:

Save 35% on this backpack until January 25th!

As a special treat to readers of PhotoNaturalist, Adorama has agreed to give us a great deal on this bag: 35% off the regular price (that’s a savings of $55!). So, until January 25th, you can get a great deal on this bag by using the link below:

http://www.adorama.com/LPFL400bk.html?emailprice=t&kbid=66959

Please feel free to share this link with your friends too, but remember to tell them you got it from PhotoNaturalist

Note: I have an affiliate account with Adorama, so I get a small commission for each sale through the link above, but these commissions help support PhotoNaturalist and keep this site alive (and free!). I do NOT have an affiliation with LowePro, and I never do paid product reviews. I research and buy camera stuff by myself, and then write about the stuff I like here on PhotoNaturalist.

Do you have another favorite camera bag?

If you have a different camera bag that you like, please tell us about it by leaving a comment below. Thanks!

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

Related posts:

1. The Perfect Tripod For a Hiking Photographer
2. Be Careful Where You Buy Your Camera Gear
3. Panheads Vs Ballheads

Photo by Steve Berardi

#1 – Watch where you walk

Avoid walking through the middle of dunes, since that’ll mess up those nice lines in the sand and ruin any opportunity to photograph the dune. Instead, walk around dunes, or only walk through dunes you know you don’t want to photograph.

#2 – Look for shadows

One of the most simple ways to add strength to a dune photo is to include strong contrast between a sunlit sand dune and the shadow behind it. The easiest way to do this is wait for sunrise or sunset when the sun is low on the horizon and casts long shadows. Then, just look for dunes that run North or South.

#3 – Look for layers

Photo by Steve Berardi

#4 – Avoid putting down your camera bag

Even on seemingly calm days, a lot of sand tends to move around in dune country. So, if you put down your camera bag on the sand, you’ll likely get sand in all the small crevices of your bag (and if your bag is open, the sand will likely end up on your camera or lenses). This is a real pain to clean, so hold your bag or hang it from your tripod when you’re taking stuff out.

#5 – Avoid the biggest dunes

When you first see a large field of sand dunes, you might think of always heading to the largest dunes in the field, but these don’t always make the best photographs. The biggest dunes are often the most visited, so they’ll likely have human footprints all over them. If you’re looking to photograph some undisturbed dunes, then head out towards the edges of the dune field.

#6 – Switch your lenses before venturing into the dunes

Last week, I talked about the importance of being careful when and where you change your camera lenses. With all the sand that’s constantly blowing around in dune country, it’s a good idea to avoid changing lenses out there. So, before you head out on a hike in the dunes, make your best guess about what lens you’ll be using out there and mount that lens on your camera.

What did I miss?

If you have another tip for photographing sand dunes, please share it with us by leaving a comment below. Thanks!

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

Related posts:

1. How to Photograph Landscapes With the Moon
2. 9 Tips For Photographing Perched Birds
3. Never Give Up On a Sunset

Photo by Andrew Magill (used under the CC-Attr license)

1. Put your camera on a flat surface, so that the lens is pointing straight up
2. Unlock the lens on your camera body, and turn the lens just a little bit so you can let go of the lens and it remains unlocked (but it’s still resting on the camera body)
3. Remove the cap on the bottom of the new lens you want on your camera
4. Hold the new lens in your right hand, and twist off the lens on your camera with your left hand
5. Quickly mount the new lens with your right hand and lock it onto the camera
6. Put the cap on the bottom of the old lens

You should also be careful about where you switch your lenses. When possible, avoid switching them in windy or dusty areas and take advantage of protected areas when you can:

Switch your lenses at home. The night before you go out for a hike, think about what you might photograph on that trip, and put the appropriate lens on your camera. For example, in the spring, when I know I’ll mostly be photographing close-ups of flowers, I’ll always put my long telephoto lens on my camera the night before I go out on a hike.

Switch your lenses in the car. If lighting conditions change on your way to a trailhead, then you may start thinking about photographing different subjects, which may require a different lens. So, it’s helpful to take advantage of your car’s protection from the wind and switch your lens in the car.

Switch lenses inside your camera bag. If you have to switch your camera’s lens while you’re out on the trail, then try to do it inside your camera bag, or at least use part of your camera bag to shield your camera and lens from the wind. Also, if it’s especially windy out, then try moving to a less windy spot to switch your lenses.

The basic strategy is to avoid changing your lens in windy conditions, where the most dust is flying around.

How do you switch your lenses?

Have you found another way to switch your lenses that minimizes exposure to dust? Please share it with us by leaving a comment below! Thanks

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

Related posts:

1. How to Make Your Camera Shoot Faster
2. Be Careful Where You Buy Your Camera Gear
3. 6 Tips For Photographing Sand Dunes

Photo by Steve Berardi

1. When NOT to Use Lens Stabilization
2. The Perfect Tripod For a Hiking Photographer
3. How to Fix a Washed Out Sky in Photoshop
4. 5 Essential Tools For Closeup Photography
5. 9 Tips For Photographing Perched Birds
6. Keys To Getting Sharp Photos of Birds In Flight
7. How To Make Your Camera Shoot Faster
8. How Perspective Affects Your Photos
9. How to Keep Your Camera Ready For Action
10. How to Photograph Landscapes With The Moon

I hope you enjoyed all the articles at PhotoNaturalist this year! I’m looking forward to another great year of capturing natural light

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

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1. How to Drive Your Passion as a Photonaturalist to the Next Level
2. Happy Holidays!
3. How to Photograph Landscapes With the Moon

I’d like to wish everyone a very happy holiday season. I hope you get some time to relax and eat cookies in the next couple of weeks And, if you asked Santa for any camera gear this year, then I hope it shows up under the tree.

It’s been a great year for PhotoNaturalist. Our traffic continues to double each year, and we’re almost three years old!

I didn’t get much time for guest blogging this year, so most of the new traffic came from readers telling their friends about PhotoNaturalist. So, if you’ve told your friends about PN, thank you! You continue to be a big part of growing this site.

I’ll be taking this week and next week off from writing, but I’m looking forward to a very wonderful new year. It’s gonna be the best year yet for PhotoNaturalist

Steve

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

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1. We Now Have 5,000 Readers!
2. Top 10 PhotoNaturalist Posts of 2011
3. Never Give Up On a Sunset

When I first get a camera, I always set the right date and time, but then I usually completely forget about it. A few daylight savings time changes go by, and of course I forget to update the time, so for half the year, my cameras are an hour off.

But, there’s also a few other problems: when I first set the clock, I’m usually pretty lazy about it (if a nearby clock says 7:34 PM, I’ll just set the camera to 7:30 PM). Also, a lot of digital clocks lose seconds over time, so with a camera that’s a few years old, my clock could be off by 5-10 minutes (plus any adjustments for daylight savings).

Why does this matter?

Well, with nature photography, you probably already know that timing is everything.

And, many times it’s helpful to review old photos and try to learn from them: trying to figure out what went wrong (or right!), and trying to learn more about how light works and changes throughout different conditions. So, knowing the exact time of the photo can be helpful (five minutes after sunrise is a lot different than 15 minutes after sunrise), it can help you recreate the scene and evaluate it.

Keeping your clocks accurate can be helpful in other situations too. For example, when I went out to photograph the Lunar Eclipse this past weekend, I had two cameras set up: one with a long telephoto lens to photograph the moon by itself, and another camera to just photograph the landscape. Later in post-processing, I wanted to combine two images that were taken at the same time (in order to have a big moon in the landscape image), which would have been a lot easier if both cameras were set to the same time.

So, I’ve decided to be more diligent with my camera’s clocks, and remember to keep them updated.

Where to get an accurate time

You’ll get the most accurate time from a GPS receiver, but timeanddate.com should be good enough for our purposes

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

Related posts:

1. How to Photograph Landscapes With the Moon
2. How to Switch Lenses on Your Camera
3. How to Make Your Camera Shoot Faster

Photo by Beverly Joubert

The film was created by Dereck and Beverly Joubert, two very passionate filmmakers/photographers who have dedicated their lives to documenting and protecting the lives of wild lions.

Unfortunately, the population of wild lions is rapidly declining, mostly due to habitat loss, hunting, and disease. In 1950, the African lion population was estimated to be around 400,000. But, today, the population is down to just 20,000.

This film is part of National Geographic’s Big Cats Initiative, which is a long-term commitment to stop this tragic decline of the wild cat population.

Photo by Beverly Joubert

Hopefully, you’ll be able to watch this documentary on Friday, but if you don’t have cable, it looks like it’ll be available on DVD in January

The photos in this post were used by permission from the photographer (Beverly Joubert) and were taken during the filming of The Last Lions, premiering this Friday as a part of Big Cat Week on Nat Geo WILD. Big Cat Week is a part of National Geographic’s Big Cats Initiative, a long-term commitment to halt the decline of these iconic animals in the wild, which are disappearing at alarming rates.

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1. 9 Tips For Photographing Perched Birds
2. The Secret Ingredient to Good Nature Photos

Photo by Jiyang Chen (used under the CC-Attr-SA license)

In a total eclipse, the Moon turns bright red (due to the way the light from the Sun is scattered as it passes through our atmosphere), and it’s truly a beautiful site. In fact, it was a lunar eclipse that originally inspired me to get a digital SLR

If you’re interested in photographing the eclipse, check out this great blog post by Michael Frye. He offers some good tips, especially about exposure.

I haven’t shot many photos of the Moon, but I would recommend paying close attention to your shutter speed. The Moon orbits the Earth pretty quickly, so you’ll want a fairly fast shutter speed (and, don’t be afraid to increase your ISO to get that faster shutter).

If you zoom in on your photos, and notice the Moon isn’t very sharp, it’s likely because:

1. Your shutter isn’t fast enough (the Moon is moving across your image sensor and resulting in a blurry image).
2. Your lens isn’t focused on the moon (try zooming in on live view to get precise focus).
3. The Moon isn’t taking up enough space in your frame (usually a lens of 300mm or longer will make the Moon big enough to see some nice detail).

And, don’t worry, if you miss this lunar eclipse, there’s another total eclipse coming up in April of 2014, which will be visible from most of the US and much of South America

If you enjoyed this article, and would like to read more, please signup for free updates by email or RSS.

About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.

Related posts:

1. How to Photograph Landscapes With the Moon
2. Why You Should Keep Your Camera’s Clock Accurate
3. How to Make Your Camera Shoot Faster