With its facades made of strident coloured tubing, the Pompidou Centre is like a gigantic ship posed in the heart of one of the oldest parts ofParis, halfway between the Forum des Halles and the Marais.

From far-off, it calls out to the walker who cannot remain indifferent to its extravagance. Indeed, over 35 years after its inception, the centre (which is named after the president who decided to have it built) is still one of the most modern buildings in the capital.

Strongly decried at the time, Italian Renzo Piano and Englishman RichardRogersdared a totally new architecture to house what has become one of the most dynamic institutions devoted to modern and contemporary art, bringing along in its wake the rebirth of an entire neighbourhood. From the Fontaine Stravinsky (Stravinsky Fountain) designed by Niki de Saint-Phalle and Jean Tinguely, to the windows of the galleries passing by the Pot Doré (Golden Pot) by Frenchman Jean-Pierre Reynaud, installed in front of the centre, recent creations are all around…

As for the building itself, it houses the very rich National Museum of Modern Art bringing together all the great names of modern and contemporary art (from Matisse to Picasso passing by Kandinsky and Brancusi), a superb public library, movie and conference theatres and galleries with temporary exhibitions. The centre is worth a visit for the amazing views ofParisthat it offers to visitors to the sixth floor.

Situation: 4th District.

Access: Metro Hôtel de Ville.

What remains of the Bastille, the famous state prison, taken over on July 14, 1789? There remains little in material terms but a great deal in human terms, for behind the Bastille it was a matter of a whole quarter, that of the Bastoche, of which the revolutionary tradition is well known.

For the atmosphere, read “Les Miserables” by Victor Hugo again. Indeed, there coexisted here, a laboriousParis, sometimes dangerous, but more often than not gay and alive. Today, this quarter, between République and Nation, has evolved considerably even though hints of demonstrations still float in the air. Some industrial passageways and yards still harbour craft activities, such as in the area of Charonne where you can find a luthier working, but more and more workshops are transformed into lofts for trendy urbanites.

The Rue du Fauberg-Saint-Antoine remains one of the most picturesque streets inPariswith its many passages previously full of woodworking and furniture making craftsmen, but where there are still just a few cabinet makers, upholsterers, gilders… Take the Passage du Cheval Blanc (White Horse) with its inextricable network of charming courtyards. At number 66 the Passage du Chantier (worksite) retains its nineteenth century appearance. A little further on, the Passage de la Main d’Or (Golden Hand) hides a lovely drinking house from past times. However, the workshops are increasingly yielding their space for housing. The soul of the Bastille is here in this new cohabitation.

A sign of this change is the Opera Bastille, which was created in July 1989. The director of this modern, but not revolutionary, building opted for a modern program. At the end of the night-time performance, the spectacle in the street has completely changed. Night owls have invaded the streets in search of the latest fashionable establishments or trendy bistros which are very numerous in the neighbourhood. For dining after leaving the Opera, you may prefer to go to Bofinger’s, one of the best Parisian brasseries.

Situation: 11th and 12th Districts.

Access: Metro Bastille.

You come to a large square with a bronze cylinder in the centre, evoking the chimneys of the concentration camps. At the far end on a high impenetrable wall there is the Star of David.

On the left, is the Wall of Names. Whatever your faith, and even if you are of no faith, you get a lump in your throat and your eyes fill with tears. Silence is required. 76,000 family names, followed by a first name and a year – that of birth, because that of death remains forever unknown – follow in a logic which hits you like a slap in the face. These names are read in alphabetical order but ranked by year of deportation. After each year, a vacant space is left for filling in any oversights. “Never again” it was said.

It is difficult to break away from this litany of names, known because it is that of the family, it is that of a friend, neighbour, colleague or acquaintance. 11,000 children are among this list of men and women. On The Wall of the Righteous opposite, there are bronze plaques with the names of 2,693 French men and women who saved Jews from deportation. On the mezzanine floor of the Memorial, there is the crypt and tomb of the unknown Jewish Martyr and a Star of David in black marble containing the ashes of victims of the camps and theWarsawghetto.

The exhibition tells the story of the Jews during World War II with documents, films, posters, leaflets and letters. Some 2,500 photographs of children who were deported close this visit. It takes a long time to regain your speech after leaving the Shoah Memorial.

Still in the Marais quarter, the magnificent seventeenth century Hôtel de Sainte-Aignan, has been theMuseumofArtand History of Judaism since 1998 and is worth a visit. The elegance of the building, the superb collections of religious art, works of Russian and German Jewish artists, but also the contents of the formerMuseumofJewish Artsand the Isaac Strauss Collection from theClunyMuseumare a real discovery. As for the wanderings of the Jewish people throughoutEuropefrom the Middle Ages to the present, they are related here. It is a beautiful, amazing and emotional trip.

Situation: 4th District.

Access: Metro Pont Marie.

One of the finest pavilions of the Place desVosgesto visit is the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée which, since 1903, has housed a museum dedicated to Victor Hugo (1802 to 1885). In 1832, the romantic writer, in full glory, rented a large apartment on the second floor of this hotel where he lived until 1848.

Although the layout of the rooms has changed a bit, most of the furniture and objects that Victor Hugo possessed are there again, restoring the atmosphere in which he lived with his wife and children, and the decoration which he created to the smallest detail as his passion for decoration was great. In the antechamber, it is the memorabilia of his family which are exhibited. In the living room, from the windows of which you can admire the Place desVosges, the walls covered in red damask, the Venetian mirror, the bust of the writer sculpted by David d’Angers and the portrait of his wife Adele are “witnesses” to the time when the couple received Gautier, Musset, Vigny, Balzac, Lamartine, Sainte-Beuve, Berlioz, Liszt, etc…

In the amazing Chinese living room we discover panels he designed for the home of Juliette Drouet in Guernsey, and then in the dining room, living room and the bedroom where he died, the historic furniture that he brought with him upon his return from exile, reminds us of the passion of this literary giant for the Middle Ages. The Rodin bust evokes the power and tenderness of the poet at the end of his life. In the bedroom, the desk reminds us that he was often awake writing – “Les Contemplations” (Contemplations), “La Légende des siècles” (The Legend of centuries) or “L’Art d’être grand-père” (The art of being a grandfather).

Situation: 3rd District

Access: Metro Bastille. Maison de Victor Hugo.

Best time to visit: Closed on Mondays.

This is one of the oldest quarters ofParis, with narrow cobbled streets, passages, courtyards and shady squares, as well as stately homes, palaces and the superb Place desVosgeswhich is a model of harmony and elegance. King Henry IV was the designer of this splendour.

It is a perfect square, lined with 36 two storey pavilions built of stone and brick, on arcades, which shelter a garden in its centre. In the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, the Musée Carnavalet (theCarnavaletMuseum), occupying two magnificent Renaissance mansions, tells the history ofParisfrom the Middle Ages to the present day in a grandiose manner.

Turning into the Rue des Rosiers, you are met with a change of scenery. The Jewish Quarter enchants us with its special atmosphere which is overflowing with life all around.

If you get hungry, you will be overcome with choice. There is, for example, the charmingLoirdans la Théière (the Dormouse in the Teapot) which serves excellent sweet and savoury tarts, and the very chic and sophisticated Mariage Frères (Mariage Brothers) who take you around the world by drinking tea. The quiet and charming Rue du Roi-de-Sicile (King of Sicily Street) takes you to the not far away Place Sainte-Catherine, an adorable and great place to stop on a bench for a while.

In the Rue Saint-Antoine, the very baroque Church of Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis indicates that you are close to thevillageofSaint Paul, where it is so nice to look for bargains in the beautiful paved courtyards which play hide and seek with each other. The Rue François Miron is a succession of beautiful mansions and mediaeval houses leading to the imposingChurchofSaint Gervais, which from the top of its steps, watches over the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) and the famous Bazar facing it. The loop closes upon going up the so animated and so “gay” Rue des Archives.

Situation: 3rd and 4^th Districts.

Access: Metro Saint-Paul, Hôtel de Ville.

The top of its spire can be seen from the right or left banks of the Seine, but once in front of the Palais de Justice (courthouse) it seems to have disappeared as if by magic! Yet it is on this Ile de la Cité (CityIsland) thatSaint Louisbuilt,

in the heart of the royal residence, a chapel to house relics of the Passion of Christ, which he bought in 1239 from the Emperor Baldwin II ofByzantium. Although the relics disappeared during the Revolution, the building, several times restored, has kept most of its gorgeous original stained-glass windows.

Virtually invisible from the street, the Sainte-Chapelle can only be discovered once you are in one of the courtyards of the courthouse. You are first struck by the appearance of this 18^th century building enclosed by other buildings. It has two floors: a somber lower chapel, which was reserved for the inhabitants of the Palace, and an upper “ethereal” chapel of remarkable elegance and lightness, reserved for the royal family. It is finished off with the steeple, rebuilt in the 19^th century.

Upstairs, we discover the full architectural feat of this fine building. Walls disappear in favor of stained glass, each window of which is formed of a multitude of panels, illustrating the continuing history from Genesis to the Passion of Christ. The whole iconographic story ends with the Apocalypse shown in flamboyant pink. You ought to take the time to use binoculars and observe the details of the figures with refined gestures, sometimes touching, and true masterpieces of pictorial 13^th century.

Situation: 1^st District.

Access: Metro Cité.

Sainte-Chapelle: 6, Boulevard du Palais.

www.sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr

Best time to visit: Concerts are held in the evenings in summer.

It is one of the strongest symbols of the capital to be admired from the Quai de la Toumelle (Toumelle Quay), where the view of its chevet, with dramatic flying buttresses and grey-green copper spire, is beautiful. The Notre Dame Cathedral stands as an imposing silhouette at the eastern end of the Ile de la Cité (CityIsland).

On a site occupied since the Gallo-Roman era, the Gothic cathedral was quickly built between 1163 and 1245. Later, the openings were enlarged, the transept was extended and the flying buttresses of the apse replaced. In the 19^th century, the architect Viollet-le-Duc worked on its restoration. The façade is formal with vertical and horizontal divisions.

Below, the three portals are decorated with numerous sculptures representing notably a beautiful coronation of the Virgin Mary. Above, we see the statues of the kings of Judahand Israeland then the Rose which at the time was regarded as a bold achievement. Inside, Notre- Dame has a very simple plan: a vast nave lined with double aisles that extend around the choir by a double ambulatory. The side chapels are decorated with large paintings offered, in the 15^th century, by the Goldsmiths Guild.

It is possible to visit the east towers and admire the fanciful gargoyles and other sculptures designed by Viollet-le-Duc, as well as the Bourdon Emmanuel (Emmanuel Bell) in the south tower, which since 1685 has been sounded when major liturgical holidays and historical events, such as the liberation of Paris, have taken place.

Situation: 4^th District.

Access: Metro Cité, RER express train Saint-Michel-Notre-Dame.

Notre-Dame Cathedral : 6, Place du Parvis-de-Notre-Dame.

www.notredamedeparis.fr

Best time to visit: Early morning, before there are too many visitors, or the Sunday afternoon for the organ concert.

Here is a nice stroll, setting off wherever the fancy takes you, where you just have to let yourself be carried along by the charm of this island in the middle of Paris. In fact, walking along the shady banks bordering the Seine, you can do the tour of the village which remains untouched by time and has kept its old world charm.

Near the Pont-Marie (MarieBridge), the Hotel Lambert, dating from the 17^th century has a superb oval patio which sets the tone. The Quai d’Anjou (Anjou Quay) is a row of buildings of majestic beauty. The reason for this is that the architect Le Vau, architect ofVersailles, built his own home here along with some others. You cannot visit them, except for a wing of the magnificent Hotel de Lauzun, with woodwork and ceilings painted by Lebrun which are well worth a detour.

In the Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, from the famous Magasin Berthillon (Berthillon store), that offers its inimitable ice creams and sorbets with flavors as surprising as they are delicious, you see a high bell tower in the shape of an obelisk, on which there is a large clock.

L’Eglise (Saint-LouisChurch) – Built-in 1644, its interior with a classic severe form was badly damaged during the Revolution. Its Baroque décor dates from the 19^th century. The brightness that exudes inside is perhaps the most striking aspect before you notice the loft of the new organ which was inaugurated in 2005. Manufactured by the organ maker Bernard Aubertin, the bill for it was quite exceptional.

The haughty elegance of the island is sometimes intimidating, but we are happy to be away from the crowd around Notre-Dame, of which one can see the chevet so well from the end of the Quai de Bourbon (Bourbon Quay). This area is one of the most romantic, probably because of the weeping willows and their foliage which swing with the slightest breeze. We appreciate walking along the almost deserted Quai d’Orléans (Orleans Quay) and then that of Bethune, because we take the time to consider the details of the facades. Going to taste a dish at the very picturesque Brasserie de L’IleSaint-Louis, we gladly delay the time to cross one of the bridges linking the island to the frenzy of the world across the river.

Situation: 4^th District

Access: Metro Pont-Marie.

This island in the Seine, where fishermen fromGaulsettled from 200 BC has not just by chance become the place of attraction for tourists worldwide. The center of the ancient Lutèce (Lutetia), connected to the two riverbanks by eight bridges, offers tourists, in effect, a condensed portion of the capital’s treasures, starting with an impressive number of prestigious buildings including the two jewels of the religious heritage – the Sainte Chapelle and Notre- Dame.

It is enough to mention the Pont-Neuf (New Bridge), built in the 16^th century which is, despite its name, the oldest bridge in Paris, the Conciergerie, the grim prison where Marie Antoinette, Danton and Saint-Just passed their last days, the Palace of Justice (courthouse) which opens onto the famous Quai des Orfèvres (Goldsmith’s Quay), as far as the Mémorial de la Déportation (Deportation Memorial) to the extreme east, to convince you: the Ile de la Cité alone, sums up much of the history and atmosphere of Paris.

It is at its best from the Pont des Arts (Arts Footbridge), on the quays of the left bank. Then, from the western point and the Square du Vert-Galant, where you can settle down to watch the riverboats, the island increases your choices for promenades. You can stroll in the triangular PlaceDauphine, named in honor of the future King Louis XIII.

This square has retained some of its houses of brick, white stone and slate built in the 17^th century. The Ile de la Cité has a flower market that is also home to bird sellers on Sundays. Past the buildings of the Hôtel Dieu hospital, one comes to the winding streets of the Chapitre (Old Chapter Quarter), reaching the gardens that form a pleasant green setting at the chevet or eastern end of Notre-Dame, as well as the metal bridge that leads pedestrians to the Ile Saint-Louis (Saint Louis Island).

Situation: 1^st and 4^th Districts

Access: Metro Cité or RER train Saint-Michel-Notre-Dame.

The Seine beats like a heart withinParisand bathes its shores rich in stories and emotions. Classified by UNESCO as a world heritage site, the banks of the Seine from the Pont de Sully (SullyBridge) to the Quai Branly (Branly Quay), offer the most beautiful stroll that you can do inParis. On sunny days the Parisians rush down to the river seeking an ever-renewed delight at the beauty of the water, bridges and river life.

Without the Seineand its banks, the capital would have neither its elegance nor its respiration. To mooch about on the river banks in search of an elusive book in a second-hand bookshop, has an irresistible charm. The banks of theSeineare really worth a visit.

Before succumbing to their charm, an overall view is recommended. If you go to the terrace of  l’Institut du Monde Arabe (Institute of the Arab World), from there, the panoramic view is breathtaking: the Louis-Philippe, St. Louis andArchevêchéBridgeselegantly spanning theSeine, linking together the river banks of the capital, the Conciergerie, the Louvre, like sentinels in the distance…

After that, go down to the banks to wander along with delight past the two islands and the Square du Vert-Galant (Vert-Galant Square), before reaching the Pont-Neuf (New Bridge), the oldest and one of the most famous bridges in Paris. A very busy location, it rapidly became fashionable, even to the extent of being wrapped up in fabric by the American artist, Christo.

If you continue your walk along the Quai de Conti (Conti Quay), the Pont des Arts (ArtsBridge) footbridge lies before you, like an imposing fire dog with a magnificent view of the river banks. The other side of the river is sunnier for continuing your walk along the Seine to the Pont Alexandra III (AlexandraIIIBridge), created and launched in conjunction with the universal exhibition ofParis, 1900.

If you do not like walking, the Batobus with its eight stops is there to take you from one bank to the other and enjoy the charms of the river quays. Instead of a romantic stroll, you may prefer the sports weekends when the Voie Pompidou (Pompidou Way) is closed to motorists and rendered to cyclists, walkers and runners.

You begin to realize that whichever bank you are on, you can read, dream, and run, in a word, “live” on the banks of theSeine, which have themselves become sumptuous monuments.

Best time to visit: Early morning and the evening for the sunset and night-time lighting.