View from the pit head

It is a special time at Beamish this year because the site celebrates it’s 40th Birhday.

Bamish grew up, at the same time I did and I have been able to watch the site grow over the years into the premier tourist attraction in the county of Durham, if not the region.

There are two main time zones on the site. The town is based around the 1913 era and Pockerly Old Hall and Wagonway recreate the early 1800′s.

Now I should explain, if you are from outside of the North East of England and plan to visit Beamish, allocate the whole day to your visit. If you spend any less time there you will miss so much of the site. If you live in the region, you can get an annual pass that will allow you to visit the site as many times as you like throughout the year. Great value for money since the annual pass costs (at the time of my last visit) the same as the standard day entry.

Armstrong Whitworth

From the instant you cross the threshold, you are transported back in time. After passing through the reception area the first thing you will see is the tram stop. This is merely one stop on the circular track around the site where you can hop on and off the various trams that provide a frequent service. There is nothing better than sitting on the upper deck of an open topped tram to give a great view of the whole site.

However, if you time it right, you will be met by a chauffeur driving the specially built replica of an Armstrong Whitworth motor car. Driving past those walking to the town, those getting the tram or bus, it’s very hard to resist doing a royal wave as you pass them in style. Sadly traveling from the entrance, passed Pockerly Old Hall to the town was all too quick and we were dropped off by our driver just outside the garage in the town where the original Armstrong Whitworth car is housed.

The Print Shop

There is always plenty of things going on in the town. Whether you visit the Bank, the sweet shop (where you can see the sweets being made), the drapers, co-op, pub or even Masonic Hall. A short walk along the terrace will also take you into the dentist’s, the music teacher’s house or soliticor’s office.

It is also home to the tearoom that supplies a range of food from simple tea and scones to full meals.

A case of type

However, my personal favourite is The Print Shop. There is something special about the mechanics of it all with cogs and levers and counter balances, as well as the sounds of the presses as they operate. It is also the place to ask questions of the master printers. For example do you know where the saying “to come a cropper” originates? Or perhaps you often “get the wrong end of the stick” but never thought where that phrase came from? For the more modern minded, you may want to know why THIS IS CALLED UPPER CASE, whilst this is called lower case, when typing on a computer. This is place to ask and all will be revealed.

Moving on from The Print Shop, it was time to visit the park. It was the ideal time of year as the floral displays were amazing, particularly around the bandstand that forms the central feature.

Bandstand in the park

This is an ideal place to take a rug and have a picnic.

Whilst there was no band playing on the day of the visit it has been known for a range of music to accompany the sandwiches. Even on the busiest of days it is possible to get a spot within easy view of the bandstand.

Moving on from the park it was time to visit the railway station. Painstakingly rebuilt brick by brick, like most of the buildings at Beamish, regular trips are available on the steam train as it passes up and down the line.

From the railway station I moved on to the farm where the highlight had to be the huge shire horses. I really had forgotten how big these magnificent beasts were. The previous visit to the site, I had spotted one in a field driving a plough.

Then all too quickly it was time to go. I hadn’t visited the Colliery Village, the drift mine, the chapel, school or Pockerly Old Hall and wagonway. However, I do have an annual pass so perhaps they will be the first stops on my next visit when I add to my Flickr Set.

Beamish Museum really does allow time travel to come to County Durham.

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Look at the lumps half way up the rock face. The one of the left is a petrified top hat. On the right is a ladies bonnet from the Victorian era.

Ursula was not blessed with good looks and her rounded shoulders and twisted back led many to belief that she herself was a witch. Having been raised for most of her childhood by a local family she would often return to her place of birth to escape the constant taunts she would receive and it was here she discovered her gift for predicting events of the future. Her reputation grew to such an extent that even the court of King Henry VIII sent the Duke of Suffolk, the Earl of Northumberland and Lord D’Arcy to quell her predictions that were beginning to threaten the power of the King. In typical stubborn Yorkshire-woman style, Ursula refused to retract any of her prophecies and hit back by dishing out a few more, especially for the three ‘guests’.

In her mid twenties she married a local Tobias Shipton, a craftsman by trade. However, their marriage was a short one lasting approximately two years. The brevity of the marriage ensured that rumours of witchcraft started to circulate once more.

Despite never having children, Ursula gained the title of ‘mother’ or ‘old mother’, which was commonly used to refer to the oldest woman in a village. Hence the legend of Old Mother Shipton was assured its place in history.

Items take approximately three months to turn to stone

The petrifying well takes approximately three months to turn an item into stone. You will see all manner of items hanging from the line in the dripping waters of the well.

Years ago, it used to be possible to take your own items to be turned to stone, however this is no longer possible due to the overwhelming demand.

Some items are available from the gift shop, but items that have been petrified with a connection to a celebrity can be found in the museum at the end of the walk. The range of items is diverse ranging from Queen Mary’s shoe, to John Craven’s sock and even a hat personally owned by John Wayne.

When visiting the cave ad petrifying well, don’t forget to pay a visit to the wishing well, but make sure you read the instructions carefully. You must dip only your right hand into the water and your hand must be allowed to dry naturally. Do not be tempted to wipe it dry otherwise your wish will not come true.

The wishing well

Unlike other wells, leaving money (which is donated to charities), is not compulsory for your wish to come true.

However, if you dare to remove any money from the well, you are destined to receive nothing but bad luck.

Old Mother Shipton’s cave is set in a beautiful part of the town. It’s riverside walk provides some breath taking views with plenty of places to stop and have that family picnic in comfortable surroundings.

Allow yourself a good three hours to wander through the well kept grounds, view the spring, the petrifying well and along the managed walks. Oh and remember, when you buy a ticket, it is a day ticket. Hang on to it if you nip into the town centre because you can enjoy the river walk all over again from the other direction. Old Mother Shipton’s Cave, a highly recommended attraction.

View from the river walk

The original viaduct was built in 1848. This is the second one, which had to be built in 1851. Visit to find out Mother Shipton's prediction should the bridge fall again.

Peceful waters of the River Nidd

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Picture (c) David McElhone

Visit Whitby in Yorkshire and it wont be long before you come across the name Trillo, but who are the Trillo family?

Gregorio Antonio Thomaso Trillo

Gregorio Antonio Thomaso Trillo (Neil told us he was known to the locals as Charlie who couldn’t quite master the long name) arrived in England from Italy in 1912 and quickly set about address the problems he saw with the iced deserts at available at the time. When war broke out in 1914, Trillo suspended his commercial activities and went down the mines to help with the war effort of his new country.

However, war passed and thank goodness it did otherwise we would not have Trillo of Whitby ice cream. Perched high on the top of the east cliff, just near St Mary’s Church we encountered the third generation of ice cream vendor in the town, Neil Trillo. Having climbed the 199 steps to the church, an ice cream seemed a good idea and faced with Trillo, a local manufacturer, or another vendor, we stayed local.

On aproaching the van the challenge was laid down. “Can you beat wild cherry ice cream, served at the parlour in Reeth?” It was a straightforward fight between two Yorkshiremen. “No problem was the response. I’ve got a gothic Blackcurrent & Liquorice and you can have it topped with Dracula blood if you like.”

Our photographer was keen to take up the challenge and one rather strange purple coloured cone duly arrived. David, who is a bit of an authority when it comes to these things, gave the taste sensation his seal of approval, whilst the rest of our party opted for the more traditional flavours. Now it may have been the top quality ice cream, it may have been the 199 steps up to the church that made it taste so good. To really find out you will have to pay a visit yourself and sample a cone from the van at the top of the world.

However, if ice cream is not your thing, the Trillo’s have got that covered as well.

Up the hill to St Mary's Church

Head over the other side of the quay by the bandstand. Half way up the hill you’ll find an excellent coffee outlet. Now forget the blandness of the big global franchises. Your nose will guide you in the right direction.

Staffed by friendly locals, who will happily give you directions as well, “Full of Beans” is a small wooden building perched half way up the hill. Ideally placed to provide that pick-me-up whether you are heading up the hill to the top of the cliff, or down to the sea and just wanting a drink to quaff whilst watching the world go by.

The ten minute chat we had with Neil near St Mary’s church seemed to sum up the family’s approach to business; Relaxed, knowing they provide reasonably priced, quality products. The conversation, whether about local history, the family or Neil’s acting exploits are merely part of the transaction to get you refreshed, so you can make the most of your trip to the coast.

Full of Beans

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The weather was just about perfect for walking, warm but not too hot, although we did consume a fair amount of liquids throughout the walk.

We started off at Housesteads Roman Fort. Now the others didn’t spot it at first but read what was on the sign above. Any idea what a Pay & Display toilet is all about? No I didn’t either.

It’s a fairly long walk from the car parking area up the hill to the fort itself, however, a lot of work has been done to ensure the paths are even enough to push a buggy on, though there is plenty of safe open space for children to run around on the way up the hill.

Reaching the top of the hill, your first port of call is the museum area. It’s not that big but has some useful information in the displays that give you an overview of the fort its background, how it came to be found by archaeologists gone by etc. The museum is also where you pay your entrance fee.

Money saving tip: If you’re a member of the National Trust, entry is free!

Much of the site is covered by the exposed ruins, however in one or two places there are some quite steep drops so make sure you keep a close eye on the children. Also, don’t be tempted to rush your visit. There are plenty of things to see and discover if you look for them and the signage around the fort will give you a good insight into how these people lived. Of course some will go the extra mile to get that insight.

Having spent some time at Housesteads learning all things Roman, we moved on to Steel Rigg.

I had never heard of this place, but was reliably informed it was well worth a visit and the view from the car park was pretty impressive to say the least.

Our route was to take us along the top of the cliff, past the lake in the distance and heading east along the wall, back towards Sycamore Gap.

Of course nothing in this life is free and to get these stunning views we had to pay with blood, sweat and tears. Ok I exaggerate little there but certainly plenty of one out of the three with plenty of huffing and puffing too. Though one of the group did earn the name Cragg-hopper as she skipped up the hill.

Our ultimate goal on this part of the walk was to reach an area on the wall known simply as Sycamore Gap.

It’s a gap in the landscape with, erm……. ok no prizes for guessing a Sycamore Tree.

Now that doesn’t particularly sound impressive does it, until you actually see it. Oh, and if you are thinking it looks a little familiar, but you just cannot quite place the memory. Well perhaps you should take another look at Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves and all will become apparent. A group of Australians we bumped into at the gap were not quite convinced after they were told, but one of the party managed to persuade the others they were not being subjected to some tourist trap trick.

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Chillingham castle was built in the 12 century, and as our guide informed us, originally it had a round tower but this was subsequently replaced by the square design you see today. The castle itself became fully fortified in 1344 which was necessary as it was after all, on the front line of the ongoing skirmishes and battles between the English and Scots.

The tour officially started at 8pm by our group, along with three others, were champing at the bit to get going and we left the central courtyard of the castle to start our tour just after a quarter to. Our guide warned us that when we heard the castle clock strike six, it was actually eight o’clock. (Just one of those oddities of Chillingham)

The first thing we were told was this was a ghost tour, not a ghost hunt, and not to expect to encounter anything para-normal, though if anything did, it would be a bonus. I think the guide was setting expectations here upfront in true Northumbrian style. So off we went on the tour.

Rather than entering the castle we were taken back outside, along one of the high walls towards the woods to the “Monks’ Walk”. This was a route used, as you may have guessed, by monks, walking to and from their church. However, the monks were barely tolerated by the locals, so in order to stay out of sight, they walked through the woods instead of along a track. Nothing too contentious there you may think.

Woods can be scary at night. This one in particular has a history. As it is on the north side of the castle, prisoners from the battles in the area, local criminals, or general miscreants would be hung from these trees by their wrists or ankles and left to die of dehydration. This was because it trouble was coming, it was always be those Scots from the North.

Often they would last three or fours days, hanging naked with no clothes on. Our guide informed us at the time, the monks found this to be offensive. Not the hanging, nobody would dare cut anyone down, but the vitcims’ lack of clothing. So the monks would use squares of unrefined black and white wool to protect the modesty of victims.

Around this tree, people have reported to hear the sounds of children laughing and playing. Quite surprising given what would have been hanging all around them at the time. However these were hard times indeed. Parents would send their children to retrieve the squares of black and white wool from the corpses to use for their own clothing and children being children, they would make a game of it to distract themselves from the horrors all around.

Whilst the Yew trees made great hanging trees due to their large numbers of limbs, they were difficult for adults to climb but presented little challenge to children who could easily squeeze through the small gaps. They also provided a source of wood to produce the classic English Long Bow. A very effective weapon of its day.

Having followed “The Monks’ Walk” to the driveway, we turned back up the hill to the castle to start the interior tour.

On reaching the courtyard, our guide gave us a brief history of the castle, it’s structure and how it was built, before we started the climb up the south western tower to the King Edward I room.

Built specifically to accommodate King Edward I, this room was used frequently in his absence by a very disturbing character by the name of John Sage.

Sage had been sent to the castle by the king, with two demands. He was to be acommodated in the King’s quarters when it was not in use by His Majesty or other nobles, and was also be found gainful employment at the castle. Sage was wounded by a spear to the leg and result of his torturing activities inflicting pain and suffering on up to fifty people a week, as well as his distinctive walk, earned him the nickname of Dragfoot. This presented a quandry for the castle, what role could be given to this dashing, yet disabled man?

Sage, himself picked the role of “meeter and greeter” of prisoners at the castle which meant in reality, he was the torturer.

Sage was suspected in the killing of at least two children in this room and would often lock himself away in there for days on end getting up to who knows what with the women of his choice.

Whilst on our tour a gauntlet fell off a suite of armour which was in the corner of the room. Was that Sage giving us a warning sign or did someone on the tour get too close and knock it off. We’ll never know.

Our next stop was the Great Hall.

This was the main dining area of the castle and a great long table was set out along virtually the entire length of the room.

Now I took the picture to the left generally zapping around the room when the group had started to leave and noticed a blue anomaly at the far end of the room on the camera screen.

However, this turned out to be the gas bottle shown in the insert rather than anything to do with the ghost of Lady Mary Berkeley who is said to walk this room on the far side of the table away from the fireplace.

The guide explained how he personally had an experience in the Great Hall with one of the heavy candlesticks falling over and rolling off the table on to the floor.

He had also smelt the rose petal perfume of Mary Berkeley on a number of occasions.

Watching him deliver his talk in here, it was interesting to note that he stayed on the fireplace side of the table at all times. Entering the room, delivering his speech, then leaving the room. Always on the fireplace side, away from the route Mary Berkeley was said to walk.

As we left the Great Hall, the group were asked to put the candles out as we went. One lady, so engrossed in the speech replied, almost involuntarily, “No Chance”. Much to the amusement of the rest of us.

The next room we were to visit was the castle chapel.

Haunted by the ghost of a young girl called Eleanor who died in the chapel, it was in this room that poltergeist activity got a mention. Rattling of the elements of the lanterns, as well as extreme cold spots had been reported by nothing occurred during our visit. We were all asked to turn our torches off and the darkness in this room was amazing. You literally could not see your hand in front of your face at all.

We moved on through the minstrels’ gallery and down into what is now used as a tearoom during the day.

For me, one of the most best sights of the tour, was the huge Irish Elk antlers on the wall. The picture cannot truly convey the shear scale of these things and the must have been about twenty feet in width. All supported by a relatively small head.

These antlers were recovered from a bog which had preserved them amazingly well and they formed an impressive centrepiece.

Now it was in this room where things started to get a little weird.

Several of us heard knocking and banging from the direction of the minstrels’ gallery whilst the guide carried on delivering his talk. Other members of the group on the tour, reported similar noises from completely the opposite direction.

Also, Julie took a photograph of the corner diagonally opposite where we entered the room and got an anomaly. I took a picture with a different camera completely and was surprised to get something similar.

I’ve no idea what it is, why it should appear on two different pictures, from two different cameras. I think all we can say if we can rule out any camera fault.

Again, on leaving this room, I made sure I was one of the last to leave in order to take pictures. However, as the group had moved away and there were only three of us from my group left in the room, the noises from the direction of the minstrels’ gallery happened once again.

Nobody commented on them at the time and I just assumed that the tour was being followed round at a discrete distance by the estate manager, locking up the rooms behind us as we went along the route.

My suspicions this was happening were further strengthened once I had taken this picture.

Just after I took this shot. Clear as a bell I heard a cough. It has to be someone locking up behind us. Yet talking to the estate manager on the way out, at the end of the tour, he told us that nothing had been locked up and he still had to do that. Even after some pressing questions he maintained he had to see us down the steps and to our cars and then lock up. So I cannot explain the noises or the cough, but I know I heard both.

The tour continued into a room showing the types of torture equipment that John Sage would have used in his day and crossing the courtyard once again, we ended the tour in a room where you could take a peek into the dungeon of the castle down the oubliette.

Stepping back out into the courtyard, I took some final pictures in the dark.

There are a few things going on in this picture however it was raining at the time so the flash picked up raindrops rather than anything else. At least that is what I thought at first. On looking at the full size picture in Photoshop, some of the anomalies were blurred, except the blurring was at the bottom rather than the top. Why is this significant? As the rain falls to the ground you expect to see the blurring on the top, forming a little tail a bit like a comet. If the blurring is on the bottom, whatever it is, must have been traveling upwards. Rain doesn’t go up. Does it?

It just one of the many mysteries of Chillingham. Like Royston Vasey, you may never leave.

Chillingham

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You will be able to see a short film of a visit to Alnwick Castle by clicking on the play button below.

However, whatever is said, whatever is shown, nothing can replace the history and excitement of an actual visit to the castle itself.

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Today the only way to reach Dunstanburgh Castle is on foot along the exposed Northumberland coastline. We started out at Craster, home of the famous Robson and Son smoke house. The weather was overcast and windy, with the tide edging in as we walked, leading to some stunning waves breaking against the rocky coastline.
The route along the coast is littered with wildlife from various cattle to the Spot Eider Duck (known locally as Cuddy’s Duck after St. Cuthbert) and I won’t lie, lots of cow pats!

The castle itself, on which building commenced in 1313 by The Earl of Lancaster, sits alone, fringed on two sides by the North Sea, looking bleak and imposing. A great deal of the castle sits in ruin but it is still possible to climb (some very steep stairs) to the top of one of the towers. Once at the top it offers imposing views out across the North Sea, back to Craster and in the distance Bamburgh Castle.

As you walk the perimeter of the grounds you are rewarded with more magnificent views down into Gull Crag, whose 30 metre high cliffs provided ideal defences for the castle, and Queen Margaret’s Cove, where the waves crash in and over where the medieval builders placed the latrines!

Although it is in a ruinous state Dunstanburgh remains steeped in history and for all of its bleakness it is a stunning, peaceful reward at the end (or the middle) of your walk.

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On the National Trust website, Wallington is described as “Magnificent mansion with fine interiors and collections, set in an extensive garden and parkland”. It is an accurate description of what was once the home of the Trevelyan family, in Border Reiver country.

As you approach the estate,one of the first sights to greet you are the Griffins on the east lawn.

However, these stone heads do not mark the entrance to the site, you will have to continue a few hundred yards to the north to find the car park and entrance. The estate now owned and managed by the National Trust, is at the centre of a number of working farms which supply produce the farm shop at the southern end of the car park.

Having paid your entrance fee, or shown your National Trust membership card, you enter the Courtyard by walking through the archway under the clock. The Courtyard is a mis-leading description for this area of the estate as there is a large grassed, well tendered lawn to cross or walk round before reaching the big house itself. This area provides an ideal space for a picnic if the weather is nice, whilst other took the opportunity to kick a ball around during our visit.

Formal stable blocks house displays showing the history of the estate, some carriages, as well as the obligatory gift shop, tea room and restaurant. During the visit I stopped for a cup of tea and a scone, very reasonably priced and served quickly with a smile.

The house itself did not open until 1pm, so that provided ample time to take a look around the extensive grounds and woodland areas. One of the highlights was the walled garden, whose formal displays were clearly the result of many hours work by skilled gardeners. However, all this work was upstaged by mother nature herself, when a dragonfly made an appearance at the pond.

This rare sight drew cameras from bags and pockets from everyone in the area.

After the walled garden came a long walk in the extensive grounds of Wallington, though be warned, make sure you are wearing appropriate footwear. Thick soled shoes or boots are best as the paths vary in quality. That said virtually all sections are accessible to those who use wheelchairs.

Overall, you should allow yourself a good four hours to get the most out of your visit which includes the interior of the house itself. Contrary to the plaintive cries of one young man who said “What are we doing in here, it’s all just old stuff?” there is plenty to see and do.

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Acquired by The National Trust in 1983 Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal are part of a huge site just outside of Ripon. Fountains Abbey was established in 1132 by 13, French, Benedictine monks who left their order due to their outrage at the way their order was being broken. The monks originally travelled to York but were given the land on which Fountains Abbey now stands.

We spent much of the morning on a guided tour of the abbey with our most informative National Trust guide, John. All the while trying to avoid a large group of school children who were being taken on a tour, dressed as monks, by guides who were also dressed for and acting the part, complete with bell ringing, fighting and singing in the abbey!
Lunch was eaten in the grounds of the abbey which is incredibly tranquil.

After lunch we moved on to walk along the banks of the River Skell to the Studley Royal Water Gardens. Studley Royal was inherited by John Aislabie in 1693. He became the first Tory MP for Ripon in 1695 and 1718 became Chancellor of the Exchequer. The water gardens were influenced by the work of French gardeners but the design in entirely original.
Also in the gardens are several temples. These include The Temple of Fame and The Temple of Piety (which became known by us as the temple of pie eating – sorry).

You can also wander the cascades, formal canals and various bridges.

Our walk back to the visitors centre was via the deer park (not a deer in sight!) and St Marys Church, with a quick stop for a clotted cream tea at Lakeside.
All in all we spent a very pleasant day at Fountains. If you do go for a visit then I would highly recommend joining one of the guided tours, be it of the abbey or Studley Royal. Take a picnic and just enjoy.

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There are not many places left where you get a genuine feeling of stepping back in time when you arrive, but Blanchland is certainly one of them.

There is a strange tranquility about the place, even on a busy weekend. The sound of nature surrounds you, only interrupted by the occasional passing car or van.

Communication appears to centre around the parish noticeboard that, unlike other places, has a number of notices placed upon an open board which are not interfered with by the younger members of the community. People sign up for community events on the board and receive information. A polite notice indicates that all Freedom of Information requests for the council should be addressed to the Town Clerk as there is no full time member of staff to deal with them.

Blanchland could accommodate far more visitors to the area but appears to have made a conscious decision to keep its open spaces. Visitors must park in the car park at the edge of the village and walk the few hundred yards into the centre. Perfection all round.

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