No salad as a meal – Eat vicariously

The best of No Salad

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:30:00 +0000

You tried 100 things, ate in all 38 restaurants and checked in on every one of the top places Michael Bauer inked on the page. So here it is, the second installment of Best of No Salad (a.k.a. just another San Francisco restaurant list). Go ahead, share, tweet, like or bitch about it. And as always, feel free to ask me where to eat.

Best Bay Area fine dining

The French Laundry
Thomas Keller's epicurean temple still holds the highest rank in the Bay Area, ahem, in the country. It's well worth the months spent trying to get in.

COI
Chef Daniel Patterson's 11-course sensorial extravaganza is, by elimination, the best tasting menu in San Francisco.

Benu
Keller's protégé, Corey Lee, has created an exciting restaurant offering Laundry-level food as a tasting menu or à la carte (if you don't feel like eating the whole enchilada).

Best Bay Area casual elegant dining

Bouchon
If Bouchon was any closer, I'd have a sandwich named after me. Keller's second restaurant offers the best French bistro fare in the Bay Area. Authentic, modern, delicious.

RN74
With a wine list that will make your head spin before you even start drinking and a Laundry-trained chef in the kitchen (Jason Berthold), RN74 is one of my favorite restaurants in SF.

Saison
Chef Joshua Skenes' intensity comes across in his thoughtful food. The price of the tasting menu has gone up since my first visit but it is still worth the try.

Best Bay Area casual dining

Commis
This Oakland restaurant is one of the most exciting new places I've been. Fine-dining cuisine in a casual, neighborhoody atmosphere. Sit at the chef's counter, let James Syhabout impress you.

Aziza
While Central Richmond may not be the epicenter of fine cuisines (maybe a reason Aziza will soon move), chef Mourad Lahlou's Moroccan-inspired food is worth fighting for a parking spot.

Cotogna
Quince's little sister may be the best new restaurant in SF. With an outstanding Italian fare and a casual atmosphere, it's been called the Flour + Water of Jackson Square (yes, it's that hard to get in).

Best Bay Area Brunch

Nopa
The North of Panhandle favorite started brunch service only a few months ago and already has the best morning fare in SF. By far. Why? Ask chef/owner Laurence Jossel who is always there (that's why).

AdHoc
Where else can you have a 3-course tasting menu on a Sunday, at 10am? Thomas Keller's American eatery changes its menu every day and manages to make it always delicious, no matter when you go.

Foreign Cinema
The dining room is always packed and same-week reservations are not easy to come by. Two good signs this is a place you need to try.

Best Bay Area small plates

Contigo
In the last "Best of No Salad" list, no restaurant made to the top of this category. That was before Contigo opened its doors, of course. And now, this Spanish tapas place is where I find myself always coming back to. It's that good.

Plum
Plum is what Cotogna is to Quince. A casual sister to high-end COI that offers the same inventive cuisine in a neighborhood vibe.

Kokkari
Okay, this is not technically a small plates restaurant but the appetizer list at Kokkari is second to none. So good you may finish your meal before you even get to the entrées.

Best Bay Area restaurant Burger

Nopa
Chef Laurence Jossel once told me Nopa's burger was better than Spruce's. He said it was on the house if I didn't agree. Suffice to say, I paid for my bill.

Spruce
It's not just the burger but all the accouterments. The pickled onions, the top-quality cheeses and, of course, the duck fat fries. Like a high-end happy meal.

Marlowe
Hop off Caltrain and grab a burger before you head home. But not just any burger. How about one with caramelized onions, cheddar, bacon, horseradish aioli & French fries?

Best Bay Area restaurant desserts

Contigo
No sweet tooth can resist the Churros with hot chocolate at Contigo. It's my favorite dessert in SF. No wonder I order it every time, even if I want to try something else. Then I get both.

Prospect
If you believe chocolate to be better than sex, this is like an orgy on your plate. Order the Chocolate orbit cake, have seconds.

Aziza
Pastry chef Melissa Chou has the difficult challenge of following Mourad Lahlou’s outstanding cuisine. And she does it brilliantly. Every time.

Best Bay Area bakery

Bouchon Bakery
How far would you go for a morning bun? I drove many times all the way to Yountville just to get a coffee and pastry in this tiny bakery. The line is always long but it's always worth the wait (and the trip).

Tartine Bakery
Speaking of long lines, come rain or come shine. Every morning locals queue for a freshly baked scone, morning bun and chocolate croissant. No better way to start your day.

Best Bay Area on the cheap

Limon Rotisserie
For under 10 bucks you get half roast chicken—likely the best you ever had, and two sides. Get the fried yucca, you’ll find there’s something better than French fries.

Roti Bistro
This West Portal spot serves what I think is the best Indian food in SF. At lunch service, a special menu offers a dozen dishes for about 10 bucks. It’s a steal.

Caffe Museo
The restaurant at SF MoMA serves good Californian/Mediterranean fare for a decent price. Fried gnocchi and Strawberry rhubarb pavlova (when in season) are a must.

Best Bay Area original design

RN74
This ambitious SoMa project gave SF something that was long overdue—a restaurant design that is as exciting as its food. On par with some of the coolest dining rooms in NY.

Bar Agricole
The sweeping space in this new SoMa hotspot is beautifully designed with wood panels and glass tube chandeliers. Definitely worth a visit.

Morimoto Napa
This namesake Iron Chef restaurant brings the posh vibe of an LA lounge to the heart of Napa Valley. And somehow it all makes sense.

Best Bay Area restaurant. Period.

The French Laundry
Drum roll. End drum roll. Some may find my choice not surprising, even obvious. I agree, allow me to explain. It takes a lot to make a restaurant great, but it takes a lifetime to make it perfect. Keller himself questions the concept of perfection but if you've been to The French Laundry, you know there's nothing more perfect than that. Some of the best chefs in the US passed through it; Grant Achatz, Corey Lee and Top Chef Richard Blais to name a few. People from all over the world come to it (or try to) every year. More than a restaurant, it's a destination. Or a school, depending on how you look at it. But must importantly, it's absolutely unforgettable. It's been over 2 years since I've been there and I can still remember every course, every taste. As if it was yesterday.

Plum, Oakland

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 03 Jan 2011 01:26:00 +0000

When Daniel Patterson of COI announced details for his upcoming venture, much was written, blogged and tweeted about Plum’s chef that never was—Jeremy Fox. The produce maven of Ubuntu fame had signed up to head the kitchen at the much-anticipated restaurant with great fanfare. But days before opening its doors–anticipation at its peak, foodie newswires were flooded with comments on the sudden departure of the chef. To add to the drama, Fox quit in the eve of a Plum demo week at Il Cane Rosso—Patterson’s casual restaurant. The clock was ticking, the reservation books filling up; the question was, what now?

Unlike COI and Il Cane Rosso, Plum is located across the bridge. Patterson has publicly complained about the costs of running a neighborhood restaurant in San Francisco and considering that the chef lives in the East Bay (I’m not stalking him, that’s also public information), the location seems fitting.

Truth be told, Uptown Oakland can be slightly sketchy at night, but the upside pays off. Space is abundant and parking, a breeze.

Plum is by no means a large restaurant; the dining room fits only 48 people between large communal tables and a chef’s counter. And while the idea is that you sit together with other people—this is a neighborhood restaurant after all, you don’t feel crammed among strangers.

The décor is simple and warm. Dimly lit by hanging Edison bulbs, the room features reclaimed elm tables and benches set against dark walls with artwork by Catherine Wagner depicting Santa Rosa plums. It’s rustic meets urban, if there’s such thing.

Plum is somewhere between COI and Il Cane Rosso, bringing together the best of both worlds. From his fine dining restaurant, Patterson brought the precise techniques seen here from a perfectly poached egg to the complex aromas of a mushroom-infused dashi. From the Ferry Building rotisserie, Plum inherited the accessibility of simple, comfort food.

The result is a sophisticated yet approachable cuisine in a welcoming, casual atmosphere. And while the democratization of fine dining is an undeniable trend (Commis, Saison), Plum diners can experience it at a much lower cost.

The menu

Plum’s menu changes daily and is divided in six sections called Snacks ($4), To start ($9 to $12), Vegetables and grains ($12 to $13), Animal ($15 to $18), Cheese ($13) and Sweet ($6 to $9). Portions are on the small side giving you a chance to try a few different things—three or four dishes per person are recommended. A 16% service charge is automatically included in your bill to be shared among all staff; a common practice in fine dining restaurants like COI and The French Laundry.

The meal

Plum opened its doors with chef Lauren Kiino from Il Cane Rosso running the kitchen and Patterson signed up Charlie Parker to follow suit. The food is prepared with only organic vegetables and pastured meat, poultry and eggs from small farmers.

Heirloom Popcorn, escabeche powder. Lightly dusted with the Peruvian pepper, simple popcorn becomes an irresistible snack you can hardly stop eating.

Also from the Snacks list, Devilled eggs, caperberry-tarragon relish. Cooked perfectly the egg whites hold a yolk cream that is light and fluffy like a well-whipped hollandaise sauce.

From the To start list, Turnip and apple soup, miso, pepper cream. Lightly spicy, creamy and delicious.

From the Vegetables and grains list, Mushroom dashi, yuba, tofu, greens. A delightful soup that warms the body and soul. Raved by Michael Bauer (SF Chronicle) as “the foie gras of broth”, it has Patterson’s signature layering of flavors and aromas. Served with ribbons of tofu skin.

From the Animal list, Slow-cooked farm egg, savory fried farro, chicken, sprouts. A few years from now we’ll look back at the slow-poached egg as the poster child of the organic casual fine-dining revolution—much like tuna tartar towers marked the fancy plating in the nineties. Thanks to sous-vide circulators and talented chefs like David Kinch (Manresa), James Syhabout (Commis) and Patterson who have perfected this dish, the slow poached egg shall not become démodé—unlike the tuna tartar towers. It is and will be the basis for some of the most exciting and prolific concoctions today and in years to come. Here at Plum, the egg meets the chicken in all their deliciousness.

Roasted pork, warm salad of fall vegetables and greens, spicy squash puree, vadouvan vinaigrette. The fork-tender pork is very flavorful. The emulsified vadouvan vinaigrette brings a delicate acidity to the dish.

The Sweets are by themselves worth the trip across the bridge. Milk chocolate cream, tarragon, hazelnuts. Rich and sumptuous with a beautiful textural play, this is the kind of dessert I could eat three of. Okay, maybe four.

Goat cheesecake, poached quince, olive oil ice cream. Another great dessert with beautiful flavors thoughtfully balanced.

In short

Despite the initial rumor mill, Plum survived without a glitch and it has been collecting praises and plenty of stars from all over the Bay. I found it to be refreshingly original. It is surprising yet delightfully welcoming. As for Patterson, he’s not done expanding. Two other additions are in the works—a bar adjacent to Plum and a new restaurant in Jack London Square to be called Bracina. I’m already looking forward to it.

Plum is at 2214 Broadway
Online reservations

Restaurant People

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 01:20:00 +0000

A collection of No Salad’s best people photos over the years. Chefs, cooks, servers and patrons captured in their natural habitat. Enjoy.

Bar Agricole, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Thu, 25 Nov 2010 19:54:00 +0000

Bar Agricole is located in the soon to be fully gentrified border of SoMa and Mission districts. Only a few steps from the brand new Una Pizza Napoletana and San Francisco’s notorious biker hangout, Eagle Tavern. The somewhat unpopular spot has its advantages—for you, parking is a breeze and, for the restaurant, space is abundant.

Outside, a large modern patio offers a welcoming area for cocktail-fueled nights out. Step inside and you’ll be surprised by a sweeping space not normally found in the city.

The entire right side wall is covered by offset wood planks creating a modern yet warm texture reminiscent of elongated fish scales. Oversized chandeliers made of bent glass tubes cut through the wood in what looks like delicate tentacles of jellyfish blown by subtle underwater current. The effect is breathtaking.

Exposed concrete walls and glass windows bring an industrial feel to the split-level space. On the way to the kitchen, a smaller room serves as a quieter hideout from the buzz upstairs.

In total, the restaurant sits about 160 people but the highest number of patrons per square foot will always be found happily standing by the bar where a variety of inventive cocktails are the main attraction.

The menu

Self proclaimed as a “Modern urban tavern”, Bar Agricole’s menu is simple and direct to the point. A single list of dishes described only by their main ingredients, not classified in appetizers or mains. Prices are the only indication of portions sizes. Sharing is encouraged. The selection changes daily based on seasonal ingredients and includes 6 antipasti ($5 to $8), 12 dishes ($11 to $28) a cheese plate ($15) and 3 desserts ($9).

The meal

Chef’s Brandon Jew’s food is good and simple. Another very San Francisco example of farm-to-table cuisine. And maybe for that very reason it doesn't surprise. I liked everything I ate but can’t say anything I had would make me go back.

Chopped liver on toast. Glazed with calvados, enriched with butter, topped with delicate slices of shallots and served with frisée and watercress salad. I’m a big sucker for chicken liver and rarely will pass on it if I see it on the menu. Bar Agricole’s is good, with the creamy texture of a pâté but lacks the rich, deep flavors of the ones served at Range and Frances.

Puntarelle with romanesco broccoli & bagna càuda. A refreshing interplay of textures from the fresh vegetables, topped with cured anchovies. A nice to way to start a meal.

Nettle and Jerusalem artichoke soup. Like a bowl of fall harvest with the earthy sunchoke and the bright, almost wheatgrass-like, flavor of nettles.

Sea bass with fingerling, chanterelles and savoy cabbage. Perfectly cooked with a nice combination of flavors.

Lamb ragu over creamy polenta. The polenta here is delicate and indeed creamy, accented with Parmesan cheese and fried sage leaves. The lamb is beautifully cooked and not gamy but the ragu itself is maybe too delicate, lacking the richness of a sauce to bind it together.

If like me you have a sweet tooth, you may consider skipping desserts. They are good but not quite the satisfying type.

Sweet potato tart with crème fraîche. Spiced delicately with thanksgiving flavors but lacking the sweetness I crave.

Apple & huckleberry galette with chèvre. Slightly dry and somewhat boring. But again, I have a sweet tooth that tends to side with richer, more filling desserts.

In short

Bar Agricole is worth going for its beautiful space—a refreshing addition to a city that has many restaurants uniquely focused on their food. Go for a drink, try one of their coveted cocktails and if you’re hungry, get a table, the food may not be memorable but it certainly won’t disappoint.

Bar Agricole is at 355 11th street
Online reservations

Raising a stink

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:32:00 +0000

Korean BBQ restaurant recommendations are always followed by a caveat “the food is great but you'll stink afterwards”. There's just no way around it.

In the early nineties, Citrus was the place to see and be seen in LA. Its posh dining room with indoor beach umbrellas and large ficus trees extended directly onto a wide open kitchen giving diners a full view of the pristine back of the house. It was the first time I saw the ballet of chefs in a fine dining restaurant. It was mesmerizing, I couldn't take my eyes off it. Between me and a vast array of steamy pots and pans, only a floor-to-ceiling glass wall. And that was perfect. Like it often happens to most "it" places in LA though, Citrus went démodé and later out of business. And while its open kitchen was ahead of its time, it influenced many restaurants that followed. But at some point, the glass wall came down.

As Top Chef steals American Idol's spotlight at the Emmy's and Gordon Ramsay's third TV show ranks at the top of FOX's primetime lineup, our fascination with cooking is also increasing the popularity of restaurants with open kitchens. The back of the house is moving front and center and the bustling business of cooking becoming a lively spectator sport. Cooking as a dining performance is nothing new—Benihana has been around since the sixties; nor is a passing fad—more and more restaurants are being built around their kitchen. But while I admit to enjoy the view, sometimes I wonder if the architectural decision fell victim to an unplanned marketing gimmick.

Take the new Commonwealth in the Mission. My first impression when I walked in was great; a beautiful crowd of hip Missionites dressed in trendy evening-wear. For a moment it didn't look like San Francisco (no fleece vests in sight). The modern space features a large skylight through which the light reflections from a disco ball gently trace the room. And of course, an open kitchen. The menu is quite impressive; a nice selection of inventive and appetizing dishes. But you pay a price. House-made chips with malt vinegar foam is a fun alternative to bread and butter but requires a deep-fryer running all night. Not to mention the popular Crispy pig ears appetizer. The food is very good but while my favorite meals are the ones I find memorable, taking home their smell doesn't make for a good memory.

Restaurants with table-cooking like Korean BBQ and Fondue are naturally the biggest offenders. If the dining room suffers from poor air circulation, it’s like dining in a sauna, or a smoker. A visit to The Melting Pot can turn you into a human skunk. So if you choose to spend two hours seated by a pot of boiling oil that's perfectly fine, you made a conscious decision. And you deserve to smell like french fries. But if you reserved a table in the dining room, dolled up and showed up on time, you deserve to smell your own perfume. As long as you don't force your neighboring tables to smell it too, of course.

Most chefs would agree that few things are more damaging to a dining experience than the smell of overpowering perfume. The aroma of a great dish entices your curiosity and arouses your appetite, before you even put it in your mouth. Flavor is by definition a combination of taste and smell; the last thing I want is for my risotto to hit my palate like Chanel Nº5. But I also don't want to leave a restaurant smelling like chicken croquette. That doesn’t seem like a big ask. Or is it?

The costs of designing and running a restaurant in cities like San Francisco are higher than ever. Few projects can afford the luxury of having an ample dining room and a kitchen not sharing the same area. Much like in modern homes, bringing down the walls simply creates the illusion of a larger space.

So here’s my plea to chefs and restaurateurs. If an open kitchen is an important part of your concept and fried chicken is a must on your menu, consider giving your diners a brake. Put the fryer outside, increase the air circulation in the room or buy a more potent exhaust hood. If all fails, bring back the glass wall. There are plenty of open kitchen restaurants that don’t steam diners with their culinary scent.

Restaurants should be rated not just by their food quality, atmosphere and noise level, but also by the stench they leave on you afterwards. The next time I recommend such place I'll make sure to warn, “the food is great but you'll stink afterwards”.

Morimoto, Napa

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 19:09:00 +0000

Iron Chef is the WWE of cooking. We all know the “secret ingredient” is fixed yet we can’t help but enjoy the show. The Japanese program made its way into a successful US television franchise and while some things were updated to better serve the American taste, its signature over-the-top quirkiness was kept intact. The kitchen stadium, live commentators and the inexplicable figure of a Chairman in satin shirts set the stage for a battle. The celebrity chefs and their performances turn cooking into a spectator sport. And when the battle begins, no chef is better prepared than Masaharu Morimoto; the original Iron Chef.

Morimoto, whose television interviews often appear subtitled is known for his creative East meets West cuisine. The award-winning chef owns a small empire of restaurants in cities around the world including in the US, Florida, Philadelphia and New York. Napa is his first venture in the West coast.

Once you get inside Morimoto Napa, you’ll find yourself in a retail space. A gift shop staged with Japanese paraphernalia and several copies of the Iron Chef’s book. A long glass counter proudly displays fishes and meats; behind it a view into the open prep kitchen. Not surprisingly, a line of diners waiting to check in. This is a celebrity chef’s restaurant after all.

A wide hallway takes you pass the open kitchen where Morimoto stands busily expediting the dishes. Behind him, a lineup of groupies with their cell phone cameras ready for a glimpse of the Iron Chef’s face. But he rarely turns, the man is there to work and there’s no time to smile for the crowd. A steady stream of flashes strobe behind his back. He’s used to it but doesn’t seem to particularly enjoy the attention. Again, here he’s the chef.

The ample dining room extends into three spaces. The main room features yellow lounge chairs, a long bar and spaced-out tables. A second more private space offers a quieter atmosphere behind glass partitions. Lastly, an outside heated patio is perfect for dining riverside.

The ambience if tastefully designed mixing traditional Japanese elements with modern sensibility. Centenarian grape vines hang like sculptures against the porous concrete walls. As you explore the huge space, peruse the long menu, you can can’t help but feel a slight resemblance to a Vegas restaurant. A franchise designed to carry the chef’s name and work flawlessly like a well-oiled machine. But at least here the chef is in. Allez cuisine.

The menu

The extensive selection is divided in eleven parts. Cold appetizers ($14 to $25); Salads ($9 to $18); Hot appetizers ($15 to $19); Soups and noodles ($10 to $15); Entrées ($23 to $37); Wagyu Steaks ($55 to $80); a full selection of à la carte sushi, sashimi and maki plus a Raw bar and a Grill bar (M.P.). Options are appetizing but can be a bit overwhelming. Where to start? There’s also an Omakase tasting menu that tours the chef’s cuisine in smaller versions of eight of his signature dishes ($110).

The meal

Morimoto’s cuisine is an endless exercise of originality and whimsy. Each dish is surprising and highly engaging, they pull you in transcending a normal dining experience and inviting you to play, try, and interact. Each is like a theme park attraction. But occasionally, fuss overpowers food and froufrou takes over flavor. Yet the overall experience makes it well worth each bite.

Toro tartare. Wasabi, nori paste, sour cream. Beautifully presented on a custom wood shallow box that resembles miniature Japanese gardens. Served with Morimoto signature five sauces and shoyu. The toro is deliciously fatty and flavorful, turned into an almost pasty texture, carved out of the box with a small metal spatula. The sauces that also include a creamy guacamole almost seem like an unnecessary distraction. But you try them all anyway, hypnotized by their colorful playfulness.

Morimoto sashimi. Seared toro, salmon, eel, tuna, hamachi. Five layered fishes, five sauces. Another beautiful preparation where the sauces come in tiny squirt bottles. A great party pleaser and guaranteed conversation starter but the accoutrements are more likely to cause confusion than delight.

Oyster foie gras. Market oysters, foie gras, uni, teriyaki sauce. An amazing umami shot. Not for the texturally-challenged but if you are an adventurous foodie, this is paradise. Even with the slightly overpowering teriyaki sauce, this dish is delicious.

Fig tempura. Foie gras peanut butter sauce, pomegranate reduction. Lightly battered and fried to a crispy texture.

Kakuni. Ten hour pork belly, rice congee, soy-scallion jus. This melt-in-your-mouth pork belly is sweet and fatty. Delicious.

Whole roasted lobster “épice”. Garam masala, lemon crème fraîche. A very fragrant dish.

Duck duck goose. An inviting composition of fried rice with frozen foie gras topped with a large sunny side up duck egg, duck breast with gooseberries, duck leg confit and duck soup.

Ishi yaki buri bop. Presented in a stone bowl that comes to the table at 450ºF, delicate yellowtail filets are seared à la minute at the table simply by being placed against the inside of the bowl.

Sea urchin carbonara. Smoked bacon, udon noole, crispy shallot. A creamy, flavorful dish. My favorite entrée.

For dessert, Doughnuts. Served with six sides including Japanese molasses, lavender honey, lavender sugar, soy sugar.

Milk chocolate mousse. Citrus ginger sugar & banana orange sorbet.

In short

Morimoto’s Napa outpost is true to his brand. Inventive preparations that are as original as they are beautiful. But while nearly all dishes will make your jaw drop for presentation, not all may surprise your palate. Morimoto Napa is a restaurant definitely worth visiting, for the experience. The final score: 5 out of 5 for plating, 5 out of 5 for originality, 7 out of 10 for taste.

Morimoto Napa is at 610 Main St.
Online reservations

Prep to Plating at Quince

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 15:30:00 +0000

Raviolo di ricotta with Tomatero Farm egg, nasturtiums and opal basil

When I visited its new location back in January, I tweeted: “The new Quince is like that nephew you remember as a baby and one day see him all grown up. But unlike him, Quince still looks adorable.” The restaurant’s Jackson Square location is a far cry from the original Pacific Heights spot. Michael and Lindsay Tusk left behind the quaint neighborhood atmosphere and created a gorgeous, elegant dining space that lives up to its fine dining cuisine. But most importantly, they did so without losing Quince’s charm.

The beautiful new space has enough room for a welcoming lounge, a long bar and much larger tables, comfortably spaced out. But while some things changed, some remained the same. Michael still runs the (now much larger) kitchen with the attention to details he always had. His pastas are still some of the best in the city and one in particular has survived a lifetime of menu changes and moves. Tusk’s Raviolo di ricotta with farm egg—a dish he makes by hand since it appeared on Quince’s first menu.

Flour and eggs are mixed together in a process that has been repeated thousands of times by the chef’s hands. Dough is formed, rested and shaped as thin, translucent pasta sheets. Milk and cream are slowly heated then quickly broke with lemon juice. Strained, the lush ricotta is mixed with Parmigiano-Reggiano before formed into a nest for a bright-orange egg yolk. A single raviolo is served with beurre monté artfully peppered with the colors of squash blossoms, Japanese and purple basil leaves. As the diner’s fork cuts through the delicate pasta, the beautiful yolk oozes out creating a delicious sauce à la minute. The recipe is below, enjoy.

Raviolo di ricotta with Tomatero Farm egg, nasturtiums and opal basil. By Michael Tusk — Serves 6

Ricotta:
½ Gallon Strauss Farm whole milk
1 quart Strauss Farm heavy cream
12 g salt
12 g sugar
25 g lemon juice
7 g citric acid

Pasta:
1 cup oo flour
1 cup all purpose flour
8 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
olive oil
salt

Garnish:
6 Tomatero Farm egg yolks
4 oz unsalted butter
1 cup nasturtiums
¼ cup opal basil
¼ cup squash blossoms

Method

Make the ricotta the night before by lining a perforated hotel pan with cheesecloth, with a drainer pan below.

In a saucepan, combine the whole milk, heavy cream, salt and sugar and bring slowly to a boil.

Combine the lemon juice and citric acid and add to the milk mixture.

Remove from heat and let rest for 1 hour.

Strain the ricotta by pouring the mixture into the perforated hotel pan. Let drain overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove the ricotta the next day using a plastic spatula and place in a mixing bowl.

Season it if necessary with salt and parmigiano reggiano to taste. If the ricotta is too moist cut in some ricotta that has less moisture such as Bellwether Farm or Marcelli Brothers smoked ricotta.

To make the pasta dough, combine the two flours and make a well. Add in the egg yolks and whole eggs, olive oil and a pinch of salt. With a fork, mix up the yolk and then start cutting some flour into the well until the majority of the flour has been absorbed. The amount of flour will vary according to the size of the eggs being used. Knead the dough for five minutes and then wrap in cling-film and leave to rest for 1 hour.

Roll the dough out, at the thinnest setting possible, into rectangular sheets 3 inches wide by 24 inches in length. You will need two sheets this size. When completed cover the dough with cling-film so it does not dry out.

Spoon the ricotta out into approximately 2.5 oz balls leaving 1.5 inches between each ricotta addition. With a spoon or a shell-on egg make a nest into the ricotta in which you will place the farm egg yolk. Take the shell-on egg and gently push it into the ricotta.

You will form a nest into which the egg yolk will lay. Make sure not to push down too hard. The egg must rest gently with ricotta on all sides and below it.

Crack the eggs and save the whites for a different use. Keep the yolks in their shells, resting in their cartons. Gently tilt the yolk out of the shell into the ricotta nest. Do all six ricotta nests. If a yolk breaks discard it and crack a new yolk open.

Spray the dough with an atomizer filled with water, and drape the second piece of pasta over the first. Press around the outer ridge of the cheese with your index fingers until all air has been removed. It is essential that you do not push down too hard at this point and disturb the yolk. Cut out the raviolo di ricotta into circular raviolo using a circular pastry cutter. If you do not have a circular cutter, just cut into squares.

Sprinkle semolina on a half sheet pan generously and use a pastry bench scraper to transfer the raviolo to the sheet pan.

Plating

Heat six 12 inch dinner plates.

In a large sauté pan melt the butter and add a bit of pasta water. Add the nasturtiums, basil and squash blossoms and season with a bit of salt. Remove from heat while you cook the pasta.

Bring a rondoe large enough to hold all six raviolo up to a boil with water. Season with salt and turn down the water to about 190 degrees. Add the raviolo to the water and poach for about 3 minutes. The outer edge of the pasta should be tender but the yolk should remain molten.

Spoon out the raviolo onto the dinner plates using a spider or large perforated spoon. Drain excess water off the raviolo and place all on the warm dinner plates. Rewarm your butter and spoon the warm butter over the raviolo. Serve immediately.

In the fall shave white or black truffles over the raviolo. No additional cheese is necessary.

Prospect, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:53:00 +0000

Like RN74 and Heaven’s Dog, Prospect shares a new San Francisco trend of skyscraper storefront restaurants. They take advantage of brand-new open spaces that come standard with several floors of prospective clientele staked above. On the downside, to create an atmosphere that doesn’t remind diners they are eating at the lobby of a corporate building requires a hefty investment. In a city known for the high cost of running a restaurant, projects like these are not for any restaurateur (Star chefs Michael Mina and Charles Phan respectively are behind the 2 examples above). And behind Prospect is the team that runs one of San Francisco’s most iconic destinations—Boulevard.

The ambitious project that was almost three years in the making opened its doors a few weeks ago drawing crowds of curious foodies and long-time Boulevard habitués. Unlike Pat Kuleto’s Belle Epoque’s brainchild at the 1889 Audiffred Building, Prospect’s design style is modern and contemporary, coherent with the edifice in which it resides.

In the sweeping space, urban meets warmth with bare concrete columns juxtaposing wood panels and 19th century iron chandeliers. The floor is split between dark-brown carpet and reclaimed white oak planks. Business in the front, party in the back.

Prospect is a paradise for expense–account–bearing executives and yuppies alike. By the entrance, a welcoming bar that extends onto a 14-seat communal table is sure to offer some serious happy hour competition to neighbors RN74 and Ozumo.

The menu

There are twice as many appetizers ($11 to $16) as main courses on the menu, but while it’s tempting to make a meal out of several small plates–many tables do, Executive Chef Ravi Kapur’s contemporary American cuisine really flourishes on the entrées ($18 to $27). In fact, the food gets better with each course—don’t dare skipping dessert ($5 to $9).

The meal

Bread and butter are served to start along with house-filtered sparkling or still water—another welcomed San Francisco restaurant trend.

For appetizer, Soft Shell Crab – green tomato tartar sauce, jalapeño–corn relish.

Porcini Mushrooms – slow cooked farm egg, pancetta, semolina, aged balsamic.

For a main course, Petrale Sole – butter bean mousseline, bacon, chanterelles, summer bean ragout.

Organic Chicken (breast, sausage) – broccoli cheddar grits, morel mushrooms. My favorite dish.

For dessert, Bing Cherries – vanilla & black pepper, thyme pavlova, frozen yogurt.

Chocolate Orbit Cake – mojito granita, chocolate ice cream. One of the best desserts I ever had in San Francisco.

In short

Prospect is an ambitious and exciting new restaurant that comes with a respectable pedigree. The ample space, the casual haute-cuisine and the location make it an attractive destination for business diners, their lucky clients and, of course, prospects.

Prospect is at 300 Spear St.
Online reservations

Prep to plating at Saison

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:06:00 +0000

Mackerel cru. A broth of cherry blossom & cured plum

It only takes a few minutes talking with Joshua Skenes to realize he’s serious about his craft. At the brand-new fire pit he built outside Saison’s dining room, the chef dwells on a recent revelation. His methodical enthusiasm akin to an academic researcher that spends years on a single subject, in his case, ember and ash cooking. Skenes revelation is only six months old but his focus is razor sharp. Like at Assador Etxebarri, he is determined to bring out the deepest and subtlest of flavors from each of his ingredients; and achieve this by going back to basics.

In this dish, a dashi broth cooked on open fire meets a beautiful wild horse mackerel flown nonstop from Japan. Prepared in Saison’s pristine kitchen with the precision of a surgeon and all its accoutrements, the fish is neatly butchered in clean, swift strokes.

From the cutting board, the bones and skin are crisped in hot oil adding a nice textural balance to the raw fish. The broth is infused with cherry blossoms and salt-cured plum. Foraged herbs and flowers are carefully arranged. A few drops of freshly squeezed lemon and done. The final dish is simple yet unveils complex layering flavors that make worth all the R&D. It only takes one bite.

Prep to plating at Luce

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 00:33:00 +0000

“Le Jardin” — Vegetable Garden and its own soil

At first glance, Dominique Crenn may not look like your typical chef. Her sleek black hair, hazel eyes and slender, graceful figure almost seem out of place in a busy restaurant kitchen. But look closely and you’ll notice a large burn scar on her right arm, the honorable sign of a hands-on chef. The atypical veneer is perhaps a reflection of her deep enthusiasm for unconventional cuisine.

Raised in France, she moved to San Francisco in 1988 and today runs the kitchen at Luce, the new-American restaurant at the towering Intercontinental Hotel. A location that sometimes draws criticism from the press and bloggers alike. But Dominique’s cuisine is not what you’d classify as “hotel food”. It’s surprising, sophisticated and delicious. Enough to grant her a Chef of the year award by Esquire magazine.

For this essay, Dominique has prepared one of Luce's signature dishes, one that despite its apparent simplicity takes great care to be prepared. A celebration of spring vegetables, cooked sous vide and arranged artfully on a bed of carrot and sunchoke purées, presented over a slab of black granite. The recipe is below. Enjoy.

“Le Jardin” — Vegetable Garden and its own soil
(read it with a charming French accent)

2 baby carrots
2oz fava beans (seasonal)
2 oz peas in the pot (seasonal)
1 oz of baby artichoke
2 oz of baby zucchini
2 oz of baby spring potato
2 oz of baby parsley root
2 oz of baby turnips

At Luce, Dominique cooks most of the vegetables sous vide; here is another way to do it. Blanch vegetable separately starting with cold vegetable stock. Heat to a simmer until cooked al dente. Then cool them down in their own juice.

For the salad

Extra virgin olive oil
Verjus
Sea salt
1 oz of wild asparagus (keep it raw)
2 each tiny radishes
2 each tiny turnips
Peas shoots
Flowers

For the warm sunchoke puree

8 oz sunchoke (peeled)
Milk to cover
½ tablespoon of butter
Star anise
Sea salt

Simmer sunchoke in milk until soft. Discard star anise. Blend it and pass through a sieve. Keep it warm.

For the warm carrot puree

10 large carrots
Peel and juice 4 carrots. Peel and cut 6 carrots.
Simmer carrots in carrot juice until tender.

Season with salt and pepper, blend it with 1/2oz of butter and pass through a sieve. Keep it warm.

For the dehydrated black olives and rye bread

½ pound of Sicilian black olives
½ rye bread, sliced

Dehydrate for 4 to 5 hours in the oven at 105-112ºF until crunchy (you can also use a dehydrator). Then grind each of the components individually and mix them together.

To assemble the dish, start by placing a spoonful of each purée on the plate. Carefully arrange the vegetables over the purée (tweezers or chopsticks recommended). Complete with the salad and finish dusting the dehydrated black olives and rye bread over it. Voilà.

This photo essay was featured on the SF Chronicle's InsideScoop.

Prep to plating at Contigo

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Tue, 18 May 2010 16:23:00 +0000

Wood roasted local sardine and avocado toasts with pickled onions.

Brett Emerson is one of the most prolific chefs in San Francisco. At Contigo, the charming Spanish tapas restaurant in Noe Valley, the ever-changing menu gives habitués like me a chance to try something new, every time. But some dishes are too good (and too requested) to ever leave the menu. One of them is his simple roasted sardine.

Fresh Monterey sardines are filleted then roasted for a minute or so in the wood-burning oven. They are served over a toasted slice of baguette, creamy avocado purée and topped with pickled red onions. To finish, smoked sea salt is sprinkled over. A beautiful layering of colors, textures and flavors carefully balancing the acidity of the purée, sweetness of the onions and the salty smokiness of the sardines.

Below is the iPad-friendly photo essay and Brett's official recipe (a flash slideshow version is available here). Enjoy.

Roasted Local Sardine and Avocado Toasts
(serves 4 as appetizer)

8 fresh Monterey Bay sardines
2 ripe avocados, pureed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 sourdough baguette
16 rounds pickled red onions (recipe below)
extra virgin olive oil
salt
freshly ground black pepper
smoked salt (find it here)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Cut sardines into individual fillets. Set aside in refrigerator until ready to cook.

3. Cut avocados in half and remove pits. Using a spoon, scoop avocado out of their skins. Puree with lemon juice, 2 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt to taste.

4. Slice baguette on angle into 1/4-inch thin oval slices the same length as your sardine fillets. Lay baguette toasts on baking sheet pan. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toast in preheated oven until toasts are golden brown and crisp.

5. Turn up oven to its highest setting. When ready to cook the sardines, spread the toasts liberally with avocado puree. Season lightly with salt and lay four toasts on four plates.

6. Season sardine fillets with salt. Oil pan with olive oil and lay sardines in pan, skin side up. Put pan in oven and roast, approximately 2-4 minutes, until the sardines are firm and just cooked through.

7. As soon as sardines are cooked, transfer one fillet on top of each toast. Top with a round of pickled onions. Season with smoked salt and serve.

For the Pickled Red Onions

2 cups vinegar, champagne
1 cup sugar
3 cup water
1/3 cup salt, Kosher
1 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seed
3 ea cloves
1 teaspoon chili flakes
2 red onions, sliced thin

Combine all ingredients except onions and bring to a boil. Pour over red onions. Cool to room temperature, then chill. Best if pickled at least one day before using.

Local Mission Eatery, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 09 May 2010 20:16:00 +0000

Local Mission Eatery is a dining concept that celebrates local ingredients, local purveyors, and the community in which it resides. More than a restaurant, it offers cooking classes, a library of 140 cookbooks and a transparent atmosphere designed to promote the values of eating local; here and at home.

Located in the heart of the Mission district, in one of the few commercial blocks that until now showed no signs of gentrification, it’s façade stands in great contrast to the surrounding Latino setting. A foreign visage that breaks the flow of Mexican eateries, lucha libre mask vendors, and small specialty markets.

The restaurant serves appetizing sandwiches, soups and salads for lunch six days a week. But only on Thursday and Saturday nights, it offers a four-course, one-seating dinner.

A few minutes before 7:30pm, diners start gathering outside waiting anxiously for the doors to open. Among local passersby, it’s not hard to spot who’s coming to the restaurant, their high heels and eveningwear standing out, fully lit under the bright spring sunlight. Strangers in a strange land.

As the doors open, each party is taken to their seats. At the host’s discretion, they are assigned between four two-tops, a high communal table and a counter that overlooks the open kitchen. Reservations are recommended.

The space is nicely designed with juxtapositions of concrete floors and warm redwood slats. On the side wall, contemporary images of 24th Street silk screened over wood tiles stand in contrast to two vintage crystal chandeliers that hang from the ceiling.

Blue Heath ceramics tiles are used on tabletops and Flora Grubb wall gardens adorn the entrance giving the room not just a warm feel but also a local signature.

The menu

On the week of your reservation, the restaurant emails you the fixed menu to check for possible dietary restrictions. To avoid surprises, prospect diners are also alerted that no alcoholic beverages will be served (their license is still pending).

Each night’s fare is sourced from season’s peak ingredients, celebrated with pride in all its locavore glory—a picture of the twenty-pound California halibut was posted on their Twitter feed in advance of the dinner.

Running the kitchen is Executive Chef Jacob Des Voignes (Craft NY, Fifth Floor). But Jake, as he’s called, is a hands-on cook too; you will see him behind the stove, plating and serving his dishes all night long.

The fixed menu is comprised of four courses plus amuse bouche and petit fours. The price, $65 inclusive of service and taxes, is one of the best deals in town.

The meal

Not unlike Saison or Commis, Local Mission Eatery is demystifying fine dining by making its tasting menu casual and approachable. Jake’s cuisine brings sophisticated technique to simple preparations that highlight their main ingredients. Flavors are pronounced and well balanced and the freshness of meats and produce shines beautifully.

As an amuse bouche, Chantenay carrot soup. Creamy and tasty.

First course, Asparagus and potato salad. Peppercress, asparagus vinaigrette. Crunchy, chilled asparagus served with dots of with Meyer lemon purée.

Second course, Grilled Monterey Bay squid. Fresh farfalle, roasted carrots, green garlic, lemon thyme fumet. Another celebration of fresh ingredients with house-made pasta and a buttery broth so good it should be accompanied by a spoon.

Third course, Slow-roasted local halibut. Oyster mushrooms, fava beans, sweet peas, turnip purée. Topped with fava leaves, a celebration of spring and, according to a recent article in the Chronicle, the latest “it” ingredient in Bay Area menus.

Local Mission Eatery shares space with Knead Patisserie, from its separate kitchen comes the delicious desserts of Chef Shauna des Voignes.

Fourth course, Roasted strawberry parfait. Ricotta, lemon, lavender. A simple yet perfectly balanced dessert I’d have ordered seconds.

On the lunch menu, all sandwiches are prepared by the chefs, made to order from the same local, organic ingredients. There are five options to choose from ($9), here are two.

Slow-roasted cod sandwich. Preserved Meyer lemon and caper aioli, golden turnips, fava leaves, mixed herbs.

Lucky Dog Ranch steak sandwich. Roasted then pickled spring onions, garlic confit, arugula.

In short

Local Mission Eatery is a fresh concept restaurant that celebrates locavore culture with delicious sandwiches and a great tasting menu. The welcoming, food-centric atmosphere is a proof that, what may seem foreign on the outside couldn’t be more fitting in San Francisco.

Local Mission Eatery is at 3111 24th Street
Dinner reservations by phone 415-655-3422

Camino, Oakland

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 06:14:00 +0000

If like me you rarely make your way across the Bay, you know the feeling of coming out of the bridge when all drivers step on the gas to claim their lane's pole position. Without much notice you find yourself in a sort of urban NASCAR race where the end line is the fast approaching exit. "Take the next exit!" says my GPS, but she doesn't seem to realize I'm several lanes away. Like a high-speed Frogger, I make my way right dodging oversized SUVs, and barely make the exit. Failure to accomplish this would have caused my GPS to call me a defeat (in GPS language that’s “Recalculating", which around here means a good twenty minutes delay). But I make it and my recurring Bay Bridge nightmare is now behind me. Again, I don't come here often, maybe I should.

The high cost of running a restaurant in the city is making the East Bay a dining haven for local chefs. James Syhabout’s Commis and Daniel Patterson’s upcoming Plum come to mind. Besides the financial advantages, there’s the obvious benefit of space.

Camino’s glass facade gives Grand Avenue passersby a glimpse inside. The ample room is warm and welcoming with exposed brick walls, rustic wood planks and amber lighting cast from large iron chandeliers that hang from the high, tiled ceilings. The atmosphere is casual, sometimes too casual, as eventually you'll feel forgotten by the wait staff. But that's my only complaint.

Bookending the beautiful space, two 30-foot-long redwood communal tables frame a few two and four-tops. Right in the center, at the end of the room, a wide fireplace serves as the kitchen’s open fire, and from there comes the restaurant's main attraction.

The menu

The menu changes every day and features a few bar snacks ($3.5 to $6), 4 appetizers ($9 to $13) and 3 main courses ($20 to $25). The entrées usually include a meat dish, a fish dish and a vegetarian option. Chef Russell Moore who worked 20 years at Chez Panisse has lasting relationships with local purveyors and his fare derives directly from what’s seasonally available. His cuisine is a celebration of local ingredients like vegetables from sustainable farms and whole animals he butchers in the restaurant.

The meal

Most of the restaurant dishes are cooked in the fireplace or in the wood-burning oven to its side. Moore exercise simplicity and respect combining ingredients' flavors in his dishes and gracing them with the gentle smokiness of the wood fire.

The meal begins with house-baked bread served with butter.

From the bar snacks menu, the Chicken liver toast is a great choice. Creamy and flavorful.

Wood oven-roasted local mackerel with preserved lemon and mashed garbanzo beans. A flavorful dish that may require some deboning skills but is well worth the effort.

Grilled asparagus with mint, yogurt and beets. Here spring vegetables shine on the plate accented by the smokiness of the wood fire and complemented by a fresh yogurt base. Simple, superb.

Grilled garlic sausage and pork loin with lentils. Savoy cabbage and Jerusalem artichokes. A delicious dish that once again celebrates its ingredients.

Grilled local rockfish and Dungeness crab stew with artichokes, wild fennel and chilies. This light stew is worth getting your hands messy (cracking the crab will do that) and spooning the last drops of its flavorful broth.

Cornmeal-olive oil cake with strawberries and whipped cream. A simple yet tasty dessert.

Mastika ice cream with sesame candy. The ice cream made with a Greek liquor is complemented with the crunchiness of the sesame candy.

In short

Camino is another example of great Bay Area cuisine. A celebration of local ingredients in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. A local favorite of East Bayers that, for outsiders, is sure to be worth the ride. Just make sure you don’t miss the exit.

Camino is at 3917 Grand Avenue
Online reservations

Open kitchen with Mark Sullivan

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 00:55:00 +0000

Almost 3 years after opening its doors, prime time reservations at Spruce are still hard to come by. The posh neighborhood restaurant’s appeal extends well beyond its surroundings attracting foodies from all over the Bay Area. And twelve times a year, Spruce opens its back doors welcoming a select few into its kitchen for private cooking demos. Each class lasts about 4 hours and includes a lunch with the chef. Today: Spring lamb ($100).

Chef Mark Sullivan speaks about the young milk-fed lamb with the enthusiasm of a child and the experience of someone who has spent a lifetime in the trade; his hands gliding effortlessly as he butchers first the shanks, then legs, saddle, and belly. Students and cooks watch in awe. And in a matter of minutes, what was once the somewhat eerie sight of a whole animal lying dead on the table (not for the faint of heart); becomes an exciting array of cuts any home cook enthusiast would kill for. Figuratively speaking, of course.

Much like in a live cooking show (think Julia Child, not Iron Chef), some steps are skipped for the benefit of time. A marinate of savory, garlic and olive oil is crushed in a mortar and pestle then brushed on the lamb leg that will rest for thirty-six hours before cook time. But here, out of the fridge, or a time machine if you will, comes an identical twin that has been marinating for two days. Ready to roast.

The class watches attentively gathered around the expediting table turned demo station. Sixteen people wearing pristine Spruce aprons over their Laurel Heights winter wear of v-neck cashmere sweaters and button-down shirts (no fleece vests here). But this is not a hands-on class, not for the audience anyway; the aprons are more for shows. While the lamb cooks in the oven, students are escorted to Spruce’s private dining room where the fruits of their academic endeavor will be savored along with great wine and the esteemed company of the chef.

For a self-taught chef, Sullivan is a keen teacher. While his time at school was spent studying art and philosophy, he has fond memories of growing up in a food-lover household with the kitchen as his favorite playground. The prodigy cook recalls making omelets as early as age five.

Spruce today is part of a larger organization that also owns Pizza Antica and The Village Pub. The restaurant benefits from the group’s scale with their own bakery, coffee roaster and farm to get the best possible ingredients. But at heart, Spruce is still very much a neighborhood restaurant. The type that welcomes its neighbors in the kitchen, with a glass of champagne no less.

Open kitchen with Berthold & Mina

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 23:11:00 +0000

Following the Patterson/Linch dinner at COI, the latest Bocuse d’Or fundraising event took place at Michael Mina’s trendy SoMa restaurant. This time, the spotlight swayed between the kitchen and the dining room as Bay Area culinary celebrities gathered to support the US team in the famous French competition. For everyone else, it was a sort of dining with the stars.

A couple of hours before service, the staff gathered in the middle of the long dining room for a pre-shift meeting. The event was explained, the dishes described, VIP reservations made known. Tonight RN74 will be serving a Bocuse d’Or tasting menu under the direction of Mina and Jason Berthold, the restaurant’s executive chef. Berthold describes each preparation with enthusiasm, Rajat Parr follows suit dwelling about the exclusive wine pairings that, according to him, you’d have to be crazy not to order. It is business as usual, but they all know there is nothing usual about tonight.

Back in the kitchen preparations are well under way. Berthold oversees the work while sipping a cup of hot tea. The atmosphere is calm; the calm before the storm.

As the first tickets emerge from the small kitchen printer, the quietness is overtaken by an energetic atmosphere that resembles the engine room of a war submarine; the air filled with steam, people in constant motion, orders called aloud.

While the dining room VIPs included the likes of Tre Cool (a.k.a. drummer of punk-rock band Green Day), the A-list food celebrities gathered backstage. For a moment, Berthold’s kitchen looked like a rock concert green room. Heavyweight chefs (no pun intended) included Michael Mina, Timothy Hollingsworth and Richard Reddington.

Berthold and Hollingsworth worked together at The French Laundry but tonight, Tim, as his friend calls him, was Jason’s guest. After all, the chef is sort of a poster child for The Bocuse d’Or having defended the US in Lyon last year. And even though that was not the first time his country competed, Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud’s involvement brought greater media attention to the event. The grueling quest for the Olympics of cooking is documented in the book Knifes at Dawn. With Hollingsworth back at his day job as chef de cuisine for Keller’s flagship restaurant in Yountville, he can help mentor the next US team before next year’s competition. But tonight, champagne in hand, the chef celebrates. On the house, of course.

Open kitchen with Patterson & Kinch

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:28:00 +0000

Last week, two of the best chefs in the Bay Area united to cook a fundraising dinner in San Francisco. Daniel Patterson from COI and David Kinch from Manresa, both Michelin 2-star restaurants, prepared together a 7-course meal with proceeds benefiting the American team competing at next Bocuse d’Or—the Olympics of cooking. A few lucky diners had the chance to experience this once-in-a-lifetime event. And now, in a rare look behind the scenes, from prep to plating, so can you. Eat vicariously.

Two hours before service, the final prep work is underway. Stainless steel rulers mark precise cutting templates, cooking times are tested, mise en places are set. Chefs make final seasoning adjustments for every ingredient exercising the kitchen’s most important act—tasting.

One hour before service, wine boxes, folded linens and jackets still hang around the dining room. The staff eats the family meal—chicken stew, rice and salad. A hearty dinner that gives them the needed energy to perform. And in a matter of minutes, all is gone. The dining room is staged, chairs are aligned, lights are dimmed; it’s show time.

Fifteen minutes before service, the adrenaline is high in both back and front of the house. Servers are trained on how to present and explain each dish; Daniel and David taste each other’s food. There’s a mix of excitement and healthy anxiety in the air. Everything is ready, everyone is prepared; but tonight, more than any other night, nothing can go wrong.

“Two first!” The chef kicks off service calling the evening’s first amuse bouches. “Yes, Chef!” Answers one cook. And so it begins. Course after course, each dish is called aloud, fired and expedited with great efficiency and sense of urgency. Like a relay race, the peak of activity in the kitchen moves from one station to another following the progression of dishes on the menu. The baton is passed with the chef calling the next order. “Two oyster!”

Throughout the night, a ballet of tweezers and Sharpies can be watched in constant motion. Each dish is carefully assembled by sometimes many chefs, heads down, tweezers in hands like a group of surgeons around the operating table. Focused, until the last sprig of fresh herb, plucked à la minute, is precisely laid down on the finished plate. And there, another artful dish is produced. “I need hands!” Calls the expediter, a server quickly takes it away. With Sharpie in hand, he crosses it from the list and moves on to the next thing, not a second to spare.

Tickets are lined up on the wall that divides the kitchen from the dining room. Written in a language cooks and servers are fluent in—efficiency. As the night progresses, dozens of the same dishes are produced flawlessly, making the kitchen a well-oiled machine. But that’s no excuse to relax; everything is constantly tasted, checked. Daniel and David join their staff jumping from station to station to offer help where most needed.

On the other side of the wall, the dining room is filled with excitement and anticipation for every dish that arrives. Beautiful presentations engage diners creating awe and surprise, like an oyster that begs to be opened revealing a gift inside. Flavors that layer great complexity out of the simplest of ingredients, like a chicken and an egg. The food is exciting, outstanding, unforgettable.

And while guests are suspended in a moment of delight, back in the kitchen, chefs and servers move at full speed. The show must go on.

Frances, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 22:09:00 +0000

Although San Francisco is regarded as one of the most exciting dining destinations in America, The Castro is not a neighborhood that often comes to mind. Just a few blocks from the epicure Mission district, in a quiet, dark corner of 17th street, is a newly opened neighborhood restaurant that promises to light up the local dining scene. And attract Bay Area foodies like moths to the broiling flames.

The small dining room has a lineup of sixteen narrow tables arranged closely together like a Parisian coffee shop. Diners squeeze in with an economy-class-like proximity that may upset the eventual claustrophobe. But the charming atmosphere and stellar service more than make up for it. And when you’re eating well, suddenly nothing else matters. When was the last time you complained about personal space while dining in Paris?

On the walls, black & white prints depicting vegetables and fruits look like artful x-rays of edible flora. Perhaps a nod to the chef’s celebration of local ingredients.

Behind Frances is the talented Melissa Perello; a multi-award-winning rising star chef that once headed the fine dining kitchens of Charles Nob Hill and Fifth Floor.

The menu

Perello serves New American fare with local ingredients and Franco-Italian inspiration. Portion sizes are just right, especially if you order four courses. Begin with bouchés, small size starters ideal for sharing; there are five to choose from ($6.50 each). Four appetizers ($8 to $11), four entrées ($17 to $23) and 3 sides ($6 each) may not seem like a lot of options for an à la carte menu, especially if you plan on a few returning visits. But everything I had was really good. So good in fact, I was happy to have it once more.

The meal

While bread is served upon request, Rosemary, sage almonds start every meal.

From the bouchés, Applewood smoked bacon beignets, crème fraîche & chives. Who says you can’t deep-fry bacon? These savory little fritters are crispy and tasty. Definitely a good start.

Panisse frites, crispy chickpea fritters, Meyer lemon aioli. A thin, crispy crust is all that is between you and this creamy snack. Perfect for sharing — although you may not want to.

Grilled calamari, Musque de Provence pumpkin, preserved lemon & currants. A light salad with perfectly cooked calamari.

From the appetizers, Roasted winter squash soup, maple scented crème fraîche. A smooth soup with nicely balanced flavors.

Semolina gnocchi, duck confit and braised cavolo nero. Pan seared for a lovely golden crust, the dumplings are beautifully complemented by tender duck and black-leaf kale.

Chicken liver mousse, frisée, currants and toasted bread. This is the kind of appetizer that has a curious blinding effect on me — the type that makes me ignore all the surrounding dishes. “Order me, order me.”, I hear it whispering me from me menu. It took me 2 visits and a canceled reservation to finally try Perello’s CLM. It was worth it. Served in a quenelle, it has the delectable texture of a semifredo and a complex flavor with hints of red wine and a delicate sweetness. Like Range’s, an appetizer so good you can have it for dessert.

From the entrées, Grilled bavette steak, cipollini onions, green garlic “chimichurri”. This fibrous cut of meat is marinated and sliced across the grain to achieve the tenderness of more noble beef. The result is a flavorful steak, here complemented by sweet onions and drizzled with a fresh take on the classic Argentinean sauce—originally made with parsley.

Caramelized Atlantic scallops, creamy fingerling potatoes, wild mushrooms. Simply put, one of the best scallop dishes I ever had. The sweet mollusks are combined with the earthiness of the mushrooms, a hearty sauce and finished with delicate herbs.

Sonoma duck breast, butter bean ragout, sautéed escarole, cotechino sausage. Tender duck served with beans cooked al dente and slices of lightly spicy pork sausage; an Italian good luck charm.

Lacinato kale and crêpe cannelloni, maitake mushrooms, Andante “Cadence”. Made with a chefs-favorite pungent cow & goat milk’s cheese from Andante Dairy, earthy Japanese mushrooms and dino kale; the only vegetarian entrée on the menu is likely to indulge even the most loyal of carnivores.

From the desserts, Bittersweet chocolate mousse, chocolate sea salt cookies, burnt caramel crème. The chocolaty, creamy mousse is nicely complemented by the caramel and salty, paper-thin cookies.

Buttermilk panna cotta, winter citrus compote and shortbread cookies. Another very good dessert.

Olive oil ice cream, Olivestri Siloro olio nuovo. Frances serves ice cream from Mission-based Humphry Slocombe. But here, chef Perello transforms a good flavor into a great dessert by the simple addition of olio nuovo, a seasonal olive oil available right after the November harvest. Bottle unfiltered, it has a fruity, peppery flavor that highlights and perfumes the ice cream.

In short

Perello’s neighborhood eatery with fine dining pedigree offers flavorful dishes in a casual setting and at reasonable prices. Frances is another successful new restaurant that should be added to everyone’s must-try lists. The kind of place you think about going back before you even finished eating. All the rave reviews following the restaurant opening are guaranteed to make Frances the next Flour & Water — a neighborhood gem virtually impossible to get in. I, for one, with a sort of insider’s trading benefit, already booked my next visit.

Frances is at 3870 17th Street
Online reservations

Baker & Banker, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:44:00 +0000

There was a welcoming sense of familiarity when we approached the small building that stands in the corner of Octavia and Bush. Nested right in between the lively Polk and Fillmore streets, this is by comparison a much quieter side of Pacific Heights. A century-old San Francisco residential neighborhood filled with slivers of Victorian heritage. And right there, surrounded only by houses, no other business in sight, is a facade that previously housed two of my once favorite restaurants.

Not much has changed on the outside; the red awning was replaced by a new one, dark brown. The discreet sign printed on it gave place to a bold new logo with the new neighbor’s name as if saying Hello, I’m Baker & Banker and you’re welcome inside.

The small square room I first visited under the name Meetinghouse six years ago or so was made famous by its next tenant, Quince. Both restaurants tried to make the most out of the small space by creating an intimate atmosphere, each in its own way. While Meetinghouse was simple and understated, Quince offered a welcoming white linen elegance under dim lights. Both were true neighborhood restaurants and in that sense, Baker & Banker is no different.

The new interior is reminiscent of a contemporary British pub with dark leather banquettes, gold leaf moldings and Edison bulbs hanging form the ceiling on thin black pipes. On the walls, chalkboards display wine and dinner specials.

The dim light of Quince gave way to a brighter atmosphere that still feels intimate but allows you to better see what you eat (and take better pictures, of course).

It looks brand new yet feels like it has always been there. The warm atmosphere gives the room a nice sense of familiarity only awaken by a hint of wet paint that still hung on the air (should be gone by now).

Baker & Banker is the brainchild of the namesake couple, Jeff Banker and wife Lori Baker; while both worked together at Home, him as executive chef, her as pastry chef; previously in his career Jeff was a line cook at Meetinghouse where he fell in love with the space. A few years later, the prodigal son came back home. You can see them busily running the back of the house and often checking in on their guests in the dining room.

The menu

The chefs serve an appetizing, very San Francisco New American fare that brings together Italian inspiration with the occasional Asian flair. The one-page menu created with sustainable ingredients from local farms features six starters ($8.75 to $12), six entrées ($19 to $27) and six desserts ($8). A tasting menu is also available ($55 + $35 for wine pairing).

The meal

Dinner begins with a basket of house made bread. Sliced whole wheat and pumpkin-rosemary rolls served with soft butter and fleur de sel.

From the daily specials, Dayboat scallop crudo with watermelon radishes, tangerines, yuzu ponzu, microgreens and sea salt. Delicate scallop slices, blanched in salt water for 10 seconds and served with paper-thin radishes that bring a nice textural contrast to the dish. Flavors are well balanced with the acidity of the different citruses and the delicate sweetness of the scallops.

Chicken liver pate, dried fruit mostarda, grilled house made brioche. The pâté is creamy and tasty and is nicely complemented by the sweet fruit compote. The chef’s choice of serving it with toasted brioche (a classic accompaniment for foie gras) is smart as it elevates the dish.

Soy and mirin braised black cod, foie gras shitake sticky rice, grilled bok choi. Cooked in mirin, a rice wine similar to sake but sweeter and with lower alcohol content, the cod melts in your mouth. With flavors and ingredients inspired by Japanese cuisine, this is a very successful dish. A contemporary rendition of a delicious bento meal.

Seared Liberty duck breast, duck and sweet potato hash, star anise port sauce. Beautifully cooked, the duck breast is juicy and tasty. Served with tender pieces of the bird’s dark meat and a rich, flavorful sauce.

After a very successful meal by Banker, the proof that two head chefs are better than one. Enter Lori Baker with some of the city’s best desserts.

Blood orange balsamic brownie, salted caramel-cocoa nib ice cream, dark chocolate sauce. A delicious dessert that brings together layers of complex flavors with an irresistible comfort food feel. The cake is impossibly moist and chewy, bettered with a generous scoop of house made ice cream.

The “Uncle Henry”; Belgian chocolate mousse, coffee ice cream, orange-espresso pirouettes. Another very successful dessert built on the classic combination of coffee and chocolate. Beautifully prepared.

In short

When Quince departed to take over the old Myth space, we wondered who would take over Quince’s famed corner building. A charming location but not an easy act to follow. Enter Baker & Banker, a creative new American restaurant that in the hands of their namesake chefs promises to become not just another true neighborhood gem but also a San Francisco favorite.

Baker & Banker is at 1701 Octavia Street
Online reservations

Bouchon, Beverly Hills

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 02:16:00 +0000

Thomas Keller has always been cautious about expanding his food empire. Of his three restaurants, The French Laundry, Ad Hoc and Bouchon; only the latter has branched out beyond its original address in Yountville, CA. The casual elegant French bistro brand first made its way to Las Vegas then New York (as Bouchon Bakery) and, after a long period of great expectation, has finally opened its doors in the City of Angels. In great style.

The restaurant is on the first floor of the Beverly Hills Gardens building, accessible through an imposing staircase. On the ground floor a new concept, Bouchon Bar, serves wine and small plates.

The dining room upstairs is one of the most impressive spaces in LA. With stunning high ceilings and tall windows that during the day flood the area with natural light illuminating the playful tile work that carpets the floor.

With a familiar design inspired by the classic French bistros of Lyon, this Bouchon bears resemblance to the original one in Yountville. Yet, in Beverly Hills, it’s rendered with more glamour and grandiosity, without losing a bit of its charm. The restaurant manages to create an atmosphere that is at the same time dramatic and intimate, airy and warm.

Service is welcoming and operates with flawless efficiency, another Keller trademark. For the chef, training for the front of the house staff is as important as the one undergone by his cooks. With its doors open for only a few weeks, the restaurant already flows in total harmony, as if its staff had been working there for years.

The menu

Keeping its trademarked presentation, Bouchon’s printed menu is neatly folded around each napkin. Open the tabloid-sized paper to find on the center eleven options for Plats Principaux ($17.95 to $34.50), classic bistro main courses prepared with Keller’s signature attention to detail (more on that later).

On the side columns, a good selection of appetizers can be ordered individually or for the table to share ($6.50 to $110). Fruits the mer include oysters, lobster, crab and clams served singly or in combination platters. Six types of salads and ten Hors d’oeuvres feature house made pâtés, charcuterie and, of course, onion soup. If you are feeling like splurging, California Sterling White Caviar is in order ($135 for 50 grams); this is Beverly Hills after all. The menu also lists side dishes ($7.50), cheeses ($9.75), and desserts ($5.50 to $9.50). Daily specials are featured on blackboards; comme il faut.

The meal

Bouchon serves French bistro fare at its best. Classic dishes like Côte de Boeuf and Steak Frites prepared with outstanding ingredients and an attention to detail worthy of a Michelin 3-star chef. And that’s the beauty of eating here. You can get similar dishes in other LA restaurants (Comme ça comes to mind), but nowhere you’ll find the same level of care and quality. Dining at Bouchon gives you a chance to experiment Keller’s unparallel cuisine at a setting that is more relaxed (and affordable) than The French Laundry or Per Se. But most importantly, with no compromises. Many chefs have leveraged their flagship restaurant names to open accessible outposts. But often, the accessibility comes with a price–you get what you pay for.

At Bouchon, even with a more approachable cuisine and informal setting, there’s no compromise. Reductions are aromatic and clear, meats are perfectly trimmed and vegetables are diced into precise brunoises.

Heading the day to day in the kitchen is Chef de cuisine Rory Herrmann, who previously held the position of private dining chef at Per Se in New York.

The meal begins with a loaf of Epi Baguette placed directly on the white butcher paper that covers the table. Another Bouchon trademark.

Then, Toasted baguette with a creamy onion pâté. Next are a few appetizers ordered to share.

Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard served with toasted baguette. This is one of my favorite Bouchon treats, because it combines the luxuriousness of silky foie gras with the simplicity of bread and butter. And that’s what Bouchon is all about. To make the terrine, moulard duck livers go through a 3-day process first being cured, then poached and finally pressed through a tamis sieve and beaten to achieve the decadent, spreadable texture of butter. They are served in glass crocks; 5oz of foie topped with a thin layer of duck fat. At the Bouchon Bakery (there’s one in Yountville and one in NY), you can buy the terrines to go; there’s hardly a better souvenir.

Rillettes aux Deux Saumons. For this rillette, chopped fresh and smoked salmon are mixed with butter, crème fraîche and egg yolks forming a delicious creamy pâté served with toasted croûtons.

From the daily special menu, Beef rillette. Beef short ribs are cooked until impossibly tender, mixed with fat and molded into a terrine. The rillette is then finished on the pan to achieve a crispy texture that contrasts the melt-in-your-mouth meat.

Salade de Betteraves et Poires. Marinated beet and poached pear salad with toasted hazelnuts, garden mâche & sherry vinaigrette.

Beignets de Brandade de Morue. Cod brandade with tomato confit & fried sage. These delicate fritters are made with house-salted cod poached in milk, pureed potatoes and olive oil. The mixture is then battered and deep-fried in peanut oil. A fantastic take on the classic cod brandade. Time for entrées.

Plat de Côtes de Boeuf. Red wine braised beef short ribs with caramelized Savoy cabbage, glazed sweet carrots, parsnips & jus de boeuf. My favorite Bouchon entréé. One that I made many times carefully following each step of Keller’s cookbook. Its preparation is a great example of the discipline and attention to detail advocated by the chef. The beautifully marbled meat is first browned on the stovetop then slowly braised at low temperature with a flavorful broth infused with red wine, vegetables and aromatics. The long process can take up to 2 or 3 days (more pronounced flavors develop as the meat rests in the braising liquid). What make this preparation exceptional are the methodical steps of purification of the broth and the way each accompanying ingredient is cooked individually to achieve perfect results. In the end, its flavor, aroma and presentation are impossible to resist.

As a special main course, slow cooked Pork belly pan seared combines the luscious richness of a generous slab of the fatty meat with a crispy crust. Served with spätzle. Absolutely fantastic.

Truite aux Amandes. Pan-roasted trout with haricots verts, almonds & beurre noisette. In this classic Bouchon dish, a fresh trout is served with a fragrant sauce of brown butter, lemon and parsley.

Gigot d’Agneau. Roasted leg of lamb with Swiss chard, pommes boulangère & lamb jus. In this elegant preparation of a rustic dish, the sliced lamb meat resembles a loin, tender and perfectly cooked.

A word of advice, don’t leave Bouchon without trying the Pommes Frites. The Russet potatoes fried in peanut oil are perfectly crunchy outside and creamy inside. In an episode of No Reservations, Anthony Bourdain (who prided himself for making the best restaurant French fries) admitted defeat at the first bite of Bouchon’s.

For dessert, Profiteroles. Served with house made vanilla ice cream & chocolate sauce. Delicate cream puffs filled and topped with delectable richness.

Pot de Crème. Eggnog infused custard served with shortbread cookies. You’ll always find a pot de crème on Bouchon’s menu, and even though its flavor will vary depending on when you go, it will likely be the best you ever had.

Ile Flottante. Meringue with vanilla crème anglaise, almond and caramel. Another elegant take on a classic French dessert.

Bouchons au chocolat. These small cakes are named after the French word for cork (and the restaurant’s name), Bouchon. They are like rich, moist and chocolaty brownie bites. Perfect with ice cream.

In short

As more nationally acclaimed chefs expand their restaurant empires to Los Angeles, the city is quickly becoming an exciting epicurean destination (Craft and Bazaar come to mind). And while Bouchon didn’t kick start this trend, its opening will forever change the LA dining scene. First because local diners will have the opportunity to enjoy Thomas Keller’s outstanding cuisine. But more importantly is what the restaurant will do for the local dining industry. Bouchon raises the standards for casual fine dining in the city pushing local chefs to raise their own bars. I call it “The importance of Thomas Keller”. Angelinos, rejoice.

Bouchon is at 235 N. Canon Drive
Online reservations

Sous Vide Chronicles

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:45:00 +0000

This holiday season, while some hustled to get their hands on a Zhu Zhu Hamster, foodies around the country put two items on the top of their wish list. Thomas Keller’s book Ad Hoc at Home (which sold out online a week before Christmas) and the brand new SousVide Supreme; a machine that promises to give home cooks the precise cooking technique once reserved to fine dining restaurants (maybe not coincidently, the subject of Keller’s previous book, Under Pressure).

SousVide Supreme is a countertop appliance roughly the size of a bread maker. Unlike thermal circulators used in restaurants, its compact, all-in-one design is countertop friendly. The stainless steel enclosure is sure to blend in with your refrigerator and dishwasher; but if counter space is scarce, a couple of side handles make it easy to move the appliance around.

Its construction could be more sturdy. The lid, for example, is a single molded sheet metal that is likely to get some dents. On the brighter side, it’s very easy to clean. But perhaps the biggest advantage of this countertop sous vide machine is the price; $499. Or less than half the cost of a standard restaurant setup. Of course, like any good hobby, there’s more you’ll need.

The term sous vide, “under vacuum” in French, refers to the most important step prior to actually cooking; sealing. Food prepared in a sous vide bath has to be first vacuum-sealed in food grade plastic bags. Equipment options range from $10 handheld devices, like the Reynolds Handy-Vac , to professional Chamber sealers that go form $1,000 to over $5000. You get what you pay for. While the former will satisfy newbies and casual cooks, don’t expect professional results. Chamber sealers offer precise pressure adjustments and, most importantly, the ability to seal in liquids–important for seasoning. For the benefit of this review (and my bank account), I used the $10 Handy-Vac–which I just found out has been discontinued.

Once you fill the SousVide Supreme’s tank with water, it takes about 30 minutes for the temperature to reach 140ºF. The lid helps to keep the temperature of the water constant. During the cooking process, there’s only a small fluctuation of about 1ºF cased by the heating element turning on and off. But unlike thermal circulators, the water in the tank remains static, not in constant flow.

Despite its great simplicity, the machine lacks a better instructions manual. Not for basic operation (that is self-explanatory) but for actual cooking. There are about a dozen recipes and a single table of recommended temperatures but nothing else. An accompanying DVD mirrors the two videos already found on the company’s website introducing the process but not offering much depth on the subject.

For a technique that is all about precision, instructions on how to cook sous vide are highly inconsistent. The literature is still scarce, especially for the home cook. Although one of the advantages of sous vide is minimizing the risk of under/overcooking, the time and temperature recommendations you find vary significantly from one source to another.

The simple instructions for cooking a perfect egg range from 45 minutes at 62.5ºC (Thomas Keller, Under pressure) to 64ºC (SVS user’s manual). And while the temperature difference may seem minimal, one or two degrees make all the difference between a runny egg white and a beautifully cooked one. I tried both, and variations of each, none were quite perfect. But when I made chicken breast and tenderloin steak, well, they were unlike anything I ever made (or could have made) at home before. The process can be seen at the end of this story.

Sous vide cooks by heating the food slowly and evenly until it reaches the final serving temperature; not a degree over. A steak for example, when cooked sous vide will have a beautifully even and precise level of doneness not just in its center but throughout. When you cook meat on a pan, the actual heat you’re applying is much greater than the desired final temperature. You do so until you achieve the proper doneness in the center of the meat. By then, the outside inevitably gets overcooked and dry, even if just a little. With sous vide this never happens. But since you’re cooking meat in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag, its pale final appearance is not what you’d expect from a tasty steak. All you need to do is quickly pan sear it over high heat to brown and caramelize the meat.

Cooking sous vide requires great care with food manipulation and storage. The low temperatures and oxygen-free environment can create ideal conditions for the proliferation of bacteria. But by following some simple rules, the health hazard can be greatly eliminated. Douglas Baldwin, a PhD in Applied Mathematics and sous vide enthusiast has written a detailed guide on how to cook safely and with success. His document includes several temperature tables and complex mathematical equations explaining the sous vide process. Keller also outlines safety considerations in his book.

Bruno Goussault, the man credited for spearheading the global sous vide revolution has a DVD offering detailed explanations and video demonstrations on the technique (currently only in French). It’s called Cuisson Sous-Vide À Juste Température.

The verdict

Sous vide combines the precision of baking with the artistry of stovetop cooking. A technique that can be appealing to both novice cooks that benefit from the assured results and high-end chefs in pursue of perfection. For home cooks, the SousVide Supreme offers a simple and elegant way to take advantage of this technique.

But its precision alone won’t guarantee flawless results, much like a great pan won’t make a perfect risotto. It takes practice, a lot of trial and error, discipline and, sometimes, beginner’s luck. But more often than not, it takes time. It’s no coincidence that Thomas Keller signs his book with the note “It’s all about time and temperature.”

A perfectly cooked filet (a.k.a. my first sous vide steak)

The steak is trimmed, weighted and measure. Its thickness will determine the cooking time.

After seasoned with kosher salt and black pepper, each steak is vacuum packed with one tablespoon of butter.

The bags are submerged in the sous vide bath at 59.5ºC.

Three hours later, the steaks are removed from the water to rest for 10 minutes.

After cooked through, the steaks need to be seared on a hot pan for a minute of two to brown its exterior and caramelize the meat.

The result is a beautiful evenly cooked filet that is tender as butter.

Il Cane Rosso, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 06:17:00 +0000

Cane Rosso is the firstborn brainchild of the partnership between two renowned San Francisco chefs. Lauren Kiino who headed the kitchen at Delfina and Daniel Patterson–the talented avant-garde chef whose restaurant, COI, is one of the best fine dining destinations in the Bay Area. COI is famous for its sophisticated cuisine of inventive combinations and artful presentations. But much like Ad Hoc is Thomas Keller’s foray into casual dining, Cane Rosso gives Patterson a chance to serve a more informal and accessible fare.

The takeout rotisserie and sandwich shop that took the place of the late Mistral in the Ferry Building was named after Kiino’s three-legged rescue mutt. His silhouette is proudly displayed on the restaurant’s signage.

At first sight Cane Rosso looks like a makeshift restaurant. Aluminum tables covered in brown butcher’s paper tied with binder clips are lined up in the Ferry Building’s ample hallway.

On warmer nights, outside seating is surrounded by a beautiful view of the Bay. If the weather is not on your side, a small counter gives you a privileged window seat to look out.

And in terms of atmosphere, that’s all you’ll get. Cane Rosso is a place for a quick, unfussy meal. But that doesn’t mean you can’t eat well.

The menu

In addition to serving lunch and fulfilling the Ferry commuters takeout needs, Cane Rosso recently started serving nightly supper from 5 to 8pm. The menu changes every night and is offered as a single 3-course prix fixe dinner for $25. For lighter appetites, starter, main course and dessert can be also ordered individually.

The meal

Chefs Patterson and Kiino serve an Italian-inspired fare with classic American comfort food flavors. Like at Ad Hoc, dishes are presented family style, portioned for the number of people at the table. But here, it feels even more informal, as if you were eating at a takeout rotisserie–which you are.

Cane Rosso offers a handful of local wines including sparking, white, rosé, and red served in small glass pitchers.

Other drink options include Fentimans Botanically brewed sodas. The Mandarin and Seville orange jigger is worth a try.

To start, Mariquita Farms Roasted Beets, little gems, and horseradish vinaigrette with toasted pistachios. A simple salad that celebrates fresh, local, seasonal ingredients.

On a second visit, a similar salad combining sweet beets, crunchy almonds and rich ricotta cheese. Star Route Mixed Green Salad  with roasted beets, almonds, ricotta salata and roasted shallot vinaigrette .

Marin Sun Farms Spiced Pork Ribs with Fennel Orange BBQ Sauce. Fagioli All’ Uccelletto. Broiled overnight at a low temperature of 230º, the ribs are tasty and tender.

Accompanied by the deliciously creamy Tuscan classic of beans in a light tomato sauce.

Pozzi Braised Lamb , Umbrian Lentils,  Caramelized Carrots. On the second visit, the braised lamb trumped the pork ribs. Tender, flavorful and nicely paired with the light acidity of the lentils and sweetness of carrots.

On the side, tasty garlic bread toasted with olive oil and parsley.

Warm Chocolate Cookies with Straus Vanilla Soft Serve. If you eat ice cream at home you’re accustomed to the hand-churning process that follows scooping a pint right out of the freezer. A necessary step to achieve an ideal creamy texture. A texture exactly like this Straus Family soft serve. A perfect side to warm cookies.

Warm Brownies with mixed nuts and Straus vanilla soft serve . Even better than the cookies.

In short

Accessible multi-course prix fixe menus are more popular than ever in the Bay Area. And while Saison and Commis offer informal fine dining on the sophisticated side, Cane Rosso is more akin to Ad Hoc–offering comfort food tasting menus created to make you feel at home. But Patterson/Kiino’s outpost lacks the finesse of Keller’s outstanding restaurant. On the other hand, it’s more accessible. The price you pay for its 3-course meal is often less than a single entrée in town. Cane Rosso may not be the restaurant you write home about but that’s not the point. What you get here are great ingredients prepared with the talent of two great San Francisco chefs, for just 25 bucks. And that’s worth writing about.

Il Cane Rosso is at One Ferry Building, # 41
No reservations are taken

Commis, Oakland

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 13:42:00 +0000

As you walk down the dark sidewalks of Piedmont Avenue looking for the right address, what you’ll find is not your typical neighborhood restaurant. There are no signs or menus outside, just a brightly lit white awning topping the all-glass facade. At first glance, it looks more like an art gallery space than a standard dining room. But what lies inside is a gastronomical oasis enclosed by stark white walls.

Step in and you’ll see a modern open kitchen framed by a 6-seat counter. With orchestrated precision, the chefs move graciously in the small space that resembles a cross of a sushi bar and a modern laboratory. Absolutely pristine and quiet except for the occasional hissing sound of liquids squirted into hot stainless steel saucepans. Each dish is artfully assembled with surgical tongs. A captivating process that, not coincidentally, is staged right in the middle of the dining room.

Commis’ design is minimalist. Not a single piece of art or decoration adorn the walls and there’s no bar or lounge distraction. Diners that arrive early are encouraged to watch the kitchen while standing by the entrance. No one complains.

Including the counter seats, only 31 guests fill the dining room. The restaurant’s minimalist personality is reflected in every detail. From the naked tables to the über modern dinnerware. But here modern doesn’t mean cold. Service, for example, is extremely efficient yet very approachable.

And while most diners arrive with reservations, the bright space that once housed a more traditional eatery still draws a handful of curious walk-ins unfamiliar with Commis’ more unconventional dining experience. Some look at the menu and decide that’s not for them (more on that later).

The menu

Commis’ nightly selection changes often based on the seasonality of local sustainable ingredients. The prix fixe menu ($59) includes three courses plus amuse bouches and mignardises. There are nine options in total, four appetizers, three entrées and three desserts. A wine pairing is also available ($29).

The meal

James Syhabout’s career includes stints in some of the most prestigious restaurants in the world. Restaurants recognized for their unparalleled excellence and creativity that have earned them countless awards, Michelin stars and critic praises. Restaurants like El Bulli, The Fat Duck and Mugaritz.

Back in the Bay Area, the chef worked at COI and Manresa before opening his own place overseas (across the bridge, that is). In kitchen ranks, commis is a junior chef. A position of apprenticeship–there to learn, to absorb. And that’s what Syhabout believes every chef should be, no matter how experienced he/she is. That’s how he approaches his work, with the humbleness and eagerness of a commis. That’s how he named his restaurant.

Syhabout’s cuisine is inventive, flavorful and precise. The chef’s influences can be seen reflected in some of his dishes.

Commis serves tasty small house baked rolls with Humboldt County butter.

To begin, Red shiso soda. Infused with Japanese basil leaves, the foamy drink has a sweet, brisk taste with an aroma reminiscent of green grass after the rain. It awakens and entices your palate to what comes next.

As an amuse bouche, A delicate concoction of poached farm egg, date purée, white onion soup, malt vinegar, chives and house made granola. A beautiful combination of complex flavors and textures with each individual element cooked perfectly. A memorable dish.

Braised lamb cheeks with anise purée. Oyster vinaigrette and young radishes. The tender lamb cheeks are paired with ingredients of contrasting temperatures and textures, like the crunchiness of cold watermelon and French radishes against the creamy purée.

Soft farm egg with potatoes and alliums. Fermented black garlic and pork jowl. In what may very well become Syhabout’s signature dish (it seems to be the critics’ favorite), the chef blends together contrasting ingredients that couldn’t work better together. A beautifully cooked egg that appears as glossy as porcelain yields a bright soft orange yolk. The ebony-black fermented garlic is brushed on the plate as a sweet, balsamic-like paste. Fatty cubes of pork add richness to the dish.

Guinea fowl with natural renderings. Toasted wheat berries with walnuts and maroon carrots, gourd mustard. Cooked sous-vide and finished in the pan, the lean fowl is juicy and tender. Intertwined together to form a yin and yang of dark and white meats, it is served over the contrasting texture of wheat berries cooked al dente and complemented by the sweet mustard.

Slow roasted pork loin and belly, pomegranate juice. Creamed escarole and tarragon bread crust. Once again, a nice play on contrasting flavors and textures also featuring caramelized sunchokes and spinach.

Apple-thyme tatin. Amber ale caramel, English cheddar ice cream. This minimalist version of the classic French dessert may not be as luscious as the original but the cheddar ice cream is a worthy complement.

Warm pumpkin custard. Licorice cream, root beer reduction, pepitas. A delicious warm custard, soft and sweet. Paired with a velvety licorice cream, a caramel-like reduction and crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds.

In short

In what became a controversial move (you may have followed the tweets), Michael Bauer recently gave Commis a lukewarm review. The SF Chronicle food critic called the restaurant pretentious and concluded that Syhabout’s cuisine may not please everyone. Here’s my take. Innovation, by definition, is the art or the unexpected. And everything that surprises can be uncomfortable at first. But if done right, the surprise becomes exceptionally enjoyable. Because it brings together emotional memories of flavors you know with combinations and preparations that challenge the status quo. In my opinion, Commis does it well. Yes, the prix fixe menu, the stark dining room and the unconventional preparations may not please everyone. So what? Taste is not a universal thing. If popularity were a sign of quality, McDonald’s would be the world’s best restaurant. So Mr. Bauer, I agree that the restaurant is not for everyone but I’d say that’s a good thing. We need more chefs with strong points of view. As for being pretentious, I beg to differ.

Commis is at 3859 Piedmont Ave
Online reservations

Aziza, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 05:08:00 +0000

In the heart of the Richmond district, Geary Boulevard transforms itself into an ethnically diverse urban-suburbia of 45º parking and wall-to-wall storefront displays. Among Russian shops, Korean BBQ joints and dim sum eateries you’ll find a discreet corner restaurant that attracts foodies from all over town. Now more than ever.

Since it opened its doors 8 years ago, Aziza has become a popular restaurant among foodies and the local press. But the recently awarded (fans would say, long overdue) Michelin star is likely to propel the restaurant’s fame nationwide.

Aziza’s main dining room may not be the hippest in town but it’s all-around welcoming. Designed with a simple yet thematically honest Moroccan flair, the atmosphere is colorful and warm. Arabesques adorn the floor and tabletops; Moorish arches frame cozy booths that can fit a romantic couple as well as a cozy party of six.

The restaurant also features two other more traditional dining rooms with tables set closely together. Service is attentive and efficient. Dishes are not described upon arrival but the wait staff will answer any queries.

The menu

Neighborhood and atmosphere aside, Aziza’s claim to fame is all about its food. Prepared by the talented Mourad Lahlou, the restaurant’s fare is an inventive and contemporary take on Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. Inventive yet never gratuitous. Lahlou’s creativity lies in putting together outstanding flavor combinations, perfect preparations and beautiful presentations.

The menu features 17 appetizers ($5 to $18) and 11 entrées ($18 to $28). Each dish is described only by listing its ingredients. A five-course tasting menu is also available ($62).

The meal

At first sight, Mourad Lahlou may look like a fashion model or a nicer version of the villain in Dan Brown’s latest novel. With tattooed arms and a shaved head, the Moroccan-born chef sees his body as a living journal of his life, according to a recent profile in the Chronicle. Self-taught and deeply influenced by his family, Lahlou is one of the most talented chefs in town. His food is at the same time sophisticated and highly approachable.

Sardines, sea lettuce, fennel, brioche. Delicate filets of fresh sardines with a nice acidity and the aroma of fennel make this dish very successful.

Hen egg, charmoula, crispy beans. In contrast to the sardines, this dish is hearty and layered with delicious Moroccan flavors.

Couscous, chicken, prawn, lamb sausage, vegetables. Each ingredient in this dish is perfectly cooked, from the surf-and-turf of proteins to the fluffy couscous. Together they create a very well-balanced dish full of lusty flavors.

Spanish mackerel, vadouvan, marble potatoes, leaves, octopus. Another very successful dish. The tasty fish is complemented by a velvety vadouvan emulsion and nicely balanced accompaniments.

Aziza’s pastry chef, Melissa Chou, has the difficult challenge of following Mourad Lahlou’s outstanding cuisine. And she does it brilliantly. Her desserts are delicious and artfully presented–it is no coincidence Chou’s started her studies in art school.

Yogurt, mousse napoleon, walnut nougatine, fig, blackberry. A delicate and rich dessert layered beautifully in complementing textures and flavors.

Hazelnut, dacquoise, pear, burnt honey ice cream. Deliciously complex and satisfying, a great way to finish a remarkable meal.

In short

Mourad Lahlou came to San Francisco over 20 years ago to get his masters in Economics. Opening a restaurant was a welcomed accident. An accident that gave us one of the city’s best-hidden restaurants and is giving Moroccan cuisine an inventive, modern flair. If you have never been, Aziza is definitely worth a drive across town–or around the world, depending on how you look at it.

Aziza is at 5800 Geary Blvd
Online reservations

Burger Bar, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 23:48:00 +0000

Hubert Keller’s CV is impressive. Born in Alsace, France, he started his career as a pastry chef and worked in several Michelin 3-star restaurants shadowing culinary icons like Paul Bocuse and Gaston Lenôtre. Since then, Keller–who you may wonder–bears no relation to Thomas Keller, has collected a myriad of awards including James Beard’s best chef in California and Food and Wine’s top 10 chefs in America. His charming personality also made him a celebrity chef with his own TV show on PBS and several appearances on Bravo’s Top Chef. But Keller’s claim to fame can be attributed to his 23-year tenure at Fleur de Lys, one of San Francisco’s most renowned fine dining restaurants.

When I heard Keller had opened a burger restaurant in Las Vegas I knew I had to try it. Fine-dining restaurant burgers have been around for a while; a whole restaurant dedicated to it sounded like a great idea. And that it seemed was exactly what everyone else thought. Unfortunately the 2-hour wait didn’t fit my tight schedule and I had to leave it for another time. Before I finally gave up though, I remember looking around and feeling something wasn’t right. It looked cheap, not in a good way. I blamed it on Vegas.

After several months of rumors and anticipation, Burger Bar finally opened in San Francisco. Despite the questionable location, I couldn’t wait to finally give it a try.

I put my preconceptions aside and tried to forget for a moment that I was going to dine at Macy’s–there are great restaurants in the city that have managed to keep their atmosphere independent from the monolithic buildings in which they’re housed. Luce and RN74 come to mind. Burger Bar is accessible by elevator from Macy’s main lobby, right across from the entrance to The Cheesecake Factory. No preconceptions, right? You can’t judge a restaurant by its neighbors; just remember, COI is surrounded by strip clubs.

As the elevator moved up, stopping on every floor, keeping an open mind was becoming more and more difficult. Fragrance & Beauty, Sportswear, Wedding Registry and, there it was, Burger Bar.

The design of the 235-seat dining room makes no effort to keep its privacy from the retail environment that surrounds it. A large glass wall serves as a constant reminder that the dinnerware department is right outside. Floor to ceiling windows give diners a wide view of Union Square. But other than the outside views, what you see inside is puzzling at best.

Non-descript granite tables, leatherette chairs, mahogany booths with table-level TV screens and a handful of beer brands neon signs. A hodgepodge of sports bar paraphernalia with faux casual elegance that lacks personality and style. Like a themed restaurant that hasn’t found its theme. Or simply, a sad version of TGI Friday’s. However you look at it, it looks cheap and tacky. Las-Vegas-tacky.

Perhaps one of the most glaring indications that the restaurant carries the stylistic heritage of its birthplace is the dismembered torso that proudly displays the chain’s classy merchandise. For sale, black bikini underwear with a prominent Burger Bar logo in front–perfect for using with sweatpants that say “Juicy” on the back. Again, classy.

The menu

The laminated multi-page menu is as colorful as a theme park brochure. Complete with mouth-watering pictures of burgers and the more questionable photo of Mr. Keller by his motorcycle. But unlike The Cheesecake Factory or Friday’s (both feature similar-looking menus), here the fare is focused. As the name suggests, this is a place for burgers. Burgers of all kinds.

There are 8 burgers recommended by the chef. From the simpler American classic–a plain cheeseburger ($14.50) to the famously expensive Rossini–made with Kobe beef, foie gras and truffles ($60). Substitutions on these burgers can’t be made–why would the chef’s integrity to be compromised anyway?

Diners can customize their own burgers form countless combinations of 8 meat patties and 46 accompaniments. There are toppings for all tastes, from bacon ($1.15) to black truffles ($30). Even a half lobster ($12) can be piled on for a true surf-and-turf experience; Vegas style. Your final burger cost will depend on how excited you get when placing your order but in average expect to pay between $13 and $20, not including fries. Definitely not cheap.

The meal

A chef’s burger is often distinguished by the quality of its ingredients and the care in its preparation. And that’s something that, for the most part, you won’t miss at Burger Bar. Keller’s patties are tall, meaty and juicy. Accompaniments are well prepared and nicely balanced.

Hubert Keller Burger. Made with buffalo meat, served with caramelized onions, baby spinach and blue cheese on a ciabatta bun. Keller’s namesake sandwich is noted on the menu as his favorite choice. Although I ordered mine medium and what I got was well over medium well, this is a good burger. With a nice layering of flavors and textures.

From the custom menu, Country Natural beef patty with cheddar on a sesame bun. On the side, Fleur de Lys’ Peppercorn Cream Sauce. Once again, a good burger with a nicely shaped patty but nothing extraordinaire. The best thing here is definitely the sauce.

Black-and-white shake. Served at almost room temperature, with a thick, emulsified texture and a Disneyland-like presentation, it resembles a dessert more than what you would expect from a classic American shake.

The restaurant also serves a couple of “sweet burgers” for dessert. But after an underwhelming meal and a large shake, none of them looked that appealing.

In short

Hubert Keller is a great chef and his home, San Francisco, is one of the best gastronomic destinations in the country. A city that offers outstanding restaurant burgers. Burgers that are made with high-quality ingredients and exceptional talent by also great chefs. Burger Bar is a good idea but its execution is a big let down. The cheap ambiance doesn’t help, but even if you can ignore it, for what it is, the food is overpriced. If you want to try Keller’s cuisine, go to Fleur de Lys. For the best burger in town, go to Spruce. But beware, there you won’t find branded underwear.

Burger Bar is at Macy’s Union Square
No reservations are taken for parties under 13

Saison, San Francisco

noreply@blogger.com (Haas) — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 03:33:00 +0000

Located in a quiet block in the Mission district, Saison is tucked away in the back of an 1800’s stable that once served as the Mayor’s carriage house. The space today houses a coffee shop and serves as incubator for a collective of small local businesses. On weekend nights, Saison takes over the kitchen and transform the remodeled stable into one of San Francisco’s most exciting dining innovations.

Reservations are taken one month in advance on its website and upfront payment is required before confirmation. Guests are asked to arrive promptly at either 5 or 8pm as the restaurant only provides 2 scheduled seatings a night.

Diners gather in a small patio outside surrounded by lemon trees and bougainvillea vines. The hostess checks names on a guest list. Champagne is served. The dining room awaits quietly inside, the sound of clinking pots and pans can be heard in the distance. There’s a sense of exclusivity and excitement driven by the mystery of what comes next.

Thirty minutes after arrival, each party is taken to their table, one by one. And even though the dining room is accessible from the patio through a wide sliding door, the path of choice takes diners through the ample kitchen. A move that opens the curtains to the chef’s realm and turns foodies into groupies with a backstage pass.

Season’s concept is about fine dining sans its formality. Traditions are demystified to prove that you can eat extremely well without what they consider unnecessary fuss. The rustic ambiance is designed to celebrate simplicity and focus diners on the luxuriousness of the food. Wall art choices are questionable–what’s intended to look like a gallery feels more like a collection of objects from an arts-and-crafts fair. But all in all, the atmosphere is welcoming enough to make you feel comfortably at home.

This balanced informal elegance is present in many details. From the well-trained wait staff wearing pristine white shirts and ripped designer jeans to the constant changing of brand new silverware placed on the bare wood table, no white linen in sight.

The menu

Saison serves a true menu confiance, one of the only ones in San Francisco. A tasting menu carefully conceived by the chef but not revealed in advance so every dish is presented as a surprise. Food allergies and restrictions can be accommodated but no vegetarian options are available. Like many Michelin starred restaurants in Europe, this is a place for open-minded diners that are willing to put their palates in the hands of the talented chef.

Chef Joshua Skenes started his culinary career working for Jean-George Vongerichtten and later headed the kitchens of Chez TJ and Michael Mina’s Stonehill Tavern. At Saison, he creates an ever-changing menu based on the freshest offers from the restaurant’s network of small purveyors. The six-course meal is priced at $70, a wine pairing is optional for $40.

Somelier Mark Bright serves thoughtful pairings from organic producers around the world. And in another successful attempt to break restaurant conventions, refills here are free.

The meal

The sight of Saison’s open kitchen is as distracting to a culinary enthusiast as a blackberry is to a workaholic. After each course, you can’t help but watch the nonstop movement of cooks skillfully plating dish after dish, and try to guess what will come next.

The meal begins with warm bread and soft butter with salt crystals.

For amuse bouche, 2 dishes are served, each dinner gets one of them. Yellow watermelon with vadouvan spices and paneer cheese.

Or red watermelon with Pedro Jimenez vinegar and black olive. A refreshing start with mild flavors.

Slow cooked Sonoma Farms egg with Osetra caviar and dashi zabaglione served with brioche toasted with seaweed butter. A delicate dish with complex savory flavors.

Crispy vegetables salad with ice lettuce, shaved cucumbers and borage. Beautifully arranged in a Kandinsky-like abstract composition. Underneath it, raw slices or golden eye snapper with Meyer lemon crème fraîche. Delicate flavors and a nice balance of textures.

Monterey Albacore with dashi butter froth and seaweed bouillon. Tender like butter, the fresh fish is nicely complemented by the crunchiness of the seaweed and the aroma of dill.

Four Story Hills Suckling Pig with Perigord truffle jus. Prepared 3 ways; loin, fromage de tête and leg. Served with a small watercress, ice lettuce and gala apples salad on the side. A very flavorful dish that, even though not perfect (the head cheese’s texture was a miss) has outstanding elements. The leg meat literally melts in your mouth, its flavor only trumped by a crisped pork skin that accompanies it–what I’d describe as a heaven’s bonbon filled with pork fat ganache. Or in other words, something to die for.

For dessert, lemon thyme panna cotta with diced Frog Hollow Farm Peaches macerated in lemon, peach peel gelée and lemon thyme froth. On the side, a crunchy Meyer lemon sea salt cookie complements its textures and flavors. A very good dessert that celebrates the end of summer.

After the mignardises, the moment comes when you stand up and leave without dealing with the bill. Everything is taken care of, and even though you paid it in advance yourself, there’s a strange feeling of privilege. Like if you were a very important guest in an exclusive dining club. And, just as you came in, you leave through the kitchen, as only an insider would.

In short

Saison is an exciting restaurant in principle and execution. The concept brings together exclusivity and warmth, fine dining and unfussiness. Chef Skenes’ cuisine is sophisticated yet approachable. Considering all that is included–6 courses, sparkling water, French press coffee and wine, the prix fixe meal is also a great deal. Come to think of it, dining at Saison is more than a choice, it’s a privilege.

Saison is at 2124 Folsom St.
Online reservations