Mark Wiens has spent most of his free time from Yaowarat Chinatown to Victory Munch (also known as Victory Monument), pursuing a mastery in the edible arts of Bangkok.  He has naturally partaken of most edible things in sight and has sampled seemingly infinite tidbits.  With a voracious Thai food eating habit, he has managed to start making som tam (papaya salad) at his personal street cart vendor and has even patented a dish to his name at a neighborhood eatery (hint: # 29).

I feel like a King every single day in Bangkok due to the ambrosial and affordable cuisine I devour.

This list does NOT include the everlasting selection of deep fried and sweet snacks that fill all street crannies or the array of Thai desserts (they will produce later articles).  This is a list of 100 dishes to eat for a memorable feast at a street restaurant or hole in the wall eatery!

Note: Many Thai dishes can be ordered with chicken (gai) or pork (moo) interchanged as well as with all kinds of vegetable variations.  Most dishes can be tweaked to personal satisfaction.  Don’t be afraid to experiment!

Other Important Words: gai (chicken), moo (pork), kao plao (plain rice), phed mak (very spicy), prik (chili), gung (shrimp), plah (fish), nam plao (plain water), kai (egg)

Hope This Helps You Eat Like a King!

asterixed* dishes are my personal recommendations!

Soups/Curries

1.  Tom Yum Gung Nam Khon*- spiced coconut milk soup with shrimp, mushrooms, tomatoes, lemongrass, and other lively ingredients and herbs

Tom Yum Gung Nam Khon

2.  Tom Yum Gung Nam Sai- spiced lemongrass and galangal based soup filled with shrimp, onions, and mushrooms (without coconut milk)

3.  Tom Kha Gai- coconut milk soup with chicken and teeming with lemongrass flavors, and filled with fragrant herbs

4.  Tom Saap*- Issan style lemongrass soup with crushed lime leaves and floating pork or fish

5.  Gang Som Pak Ruam*- spicy chili fish sauce soup broth with herbs and loaded with vegetables

Gang Som Pak Ruam

6.  Tom Klong Plah Duk- Issan catfish soup with hint of sweet tamarind in the broth

7.  Gang Som Cha Om Kai*- an outstanding chili curry soup with a vegetable omelet like egg dish chopped up inside

8.  Gang Baa- red curry with swimming fish cake balls, without coconut milk

9.  Gang Keow Wan*- ultimately flavorful green curry blend with ingredients of coconut milk, bamboo shoots, chicken, Thai basil, and the ever present herbs and roots

Gang Keow Wan Gai

10.  Kanom Jin Gang Keow Wan Gai- a sweet green curry usually with chunks of coagulated blood on top of rice vermicelli noodles

11.  Gang Leung Plah- fish made into a yellow curry blend

12.  Panang Gai*- succulent and chili filled red/brown curry of coconut cream and chicken topped with finely chopped kaffir lime leaves

Panang Gai

13.  Gang Gali- a pleasant blend of spices in a chicken curry gravy

14.  Massaman Gai- usually a Halal dish that caters to the Thai Muslim community, this dish is a reddish sweet curry with a flavorful peanut touch

Gang Massaman

15.  Gai Pad Pongali*- chicken, onions, and peppers, fried up in delicate yellow curry sauce and curdled with eggs

Gai Pad Pongali

16.  Plah Mook Pad Pongali- squid fried up with parsley and yellow curry sauce and covered with eggs to create a Thai curry sensation

Plah Mook Pad Pongali

17.  Gang Jued*- a healthy vegetable soup of carrots, cabbage, onions, pork, usually tofu, and glass noodles

Gang Jued

18.  Gang Jued Tow Hoo Tod- healthy vegetable soup with fried chewy tofu

Gang Jeud Tow Hoo Tod

19.  Gang Hed- an array of mushrooms boiled in a salty and lemony pot of shrooms, the time I ate it I thought I was hallucinating

20.  Jim Jum*- a clay pot over charcoal used to boil your own vegetables, meat, eggs, and basil, in a provided broth that is laced with ginger, garlic, lemongrass, and an assortment of other fragrant items

Jim Jum

Meat Dishes…Mostly

21.  Moo Krataa- a massive buffet of all things meat and seafood that you cook right in front of your nose on a provided griddle, huge Thai buffet

22.  Kai Rabud- fried egg, chopped up, and smothered with a sweet and sour meat and vegetable sauce

Kai Rabud

23.  Yam Kai Yeow Ma- 1000 year old Chinese black egg salad, fried, then chopped up with fried basil

24.  Kai Toon- steamed egg with shrimp or pork chop, great with a pile of white rice

25.  Hoy Tod- greasy fried oyster omelet on a bed of bean sprouts

26.  Aor Suan- greasy fried oyster omelet on a sizzling skillet

Aor Suan

27.  Kai Jiew Moo Saap*- Thai style omelet filled with minced pork and loaded with flavor, awesome with sauce prik

Kai Jiew Moo Saap

28.  Kai Yad Sai*- minced pork in a salty and tangy sauce with vegetables wrapped in a thin egg omelet over a bed of rice

29.  Kai Jiew Mark***- Migration Mark’s patented omelet found at a small eatery on Rajavithi Rd. Soi 6 near Victory Monument (Pumpkin Family).  If you need it (you do), get in touch.  This omelet is loaded with minced pork, red onions, and the Thai sweet sweet basil.

Kai Jiew Mark

30.  Kao Niew Moo Yang*- sticky rice with grilled pork skewer kebabs, always available everywhere and delicious

31.  Moo Manow- sliced pork that is lemon and herb coated

32.  Gai Satay- yellow BBQ chicken usually dipped into a peanut sweet sauce

Gai Satay

33.  Moo Tod Gratiem Prik Thai- deep fried pork sauteed with garlic and peppers

34.  Yam Khor Moo Yang*- tender grilled pork neck chopped up with mint and onions into a meaty salad

35.  Moo Dad Diew- deep fried pork grilled and then dipped into chili sauce

Moo Dad Diew

36.  Gai Tod- deep fried chicken served with tangy hot sauce

Gai Tod

37.  Gai Yang- succulent marinated and perfectly grilled chicken right off the fire on countless mobile carts throughout Bangkok

Gai Yang

38.  Kao Ka Moo- tasty cured pork in a boiling sweet soy sauce that’s served over rice

Kao Ka Moo

39.  Kao Mok Gai*- Halal dish of yellow curried rice, curried chicken, a cucumber pickle garnish, and of course a killer sauce

Kao Mok Gai

40.  Kao Moo Daang*- popular red barbecue pork served with rice and red sweet barbecue sauce smothered all over

Kao Moo Dang

41.  Kao Man Gai- simple dish of boiled chicken atop a bed of rice made with chicken stock and served with a special garlic chili blended sauce

Kao Man Gai

42.  Kao Pad Gai- a dish that can’t be messed up of fried rice with chicken (countless variations of fried rice can be made)

43.  Nam Tok Moo*- grilled tender juicy pork neck mixed with lemon juice, green onions, chili, and mint leaves

Yam Nam Tok Moo

44.  Larb Moo*- minced pork, lime juice, mint leaves, cracked wheat, and onions all combined into a heavenly treat

Larb Moo

45.  Yam Tuna*- a can of tuna mixed with lemongrass, onions, mint, and chili peppers (best can of tuna in the world)

Yam Tuna

46.  Yam Goon Chiang- Thai sausage chopped up with onions and parsley and fixed into a salad

47.  Tab Wan- Issan dish of semi cooked liver tossed with mint leaves and cracked wheat

48.  Pad Ga Pow Gai/Moo*- splendid and always delicious dish of stir fried chicken and pork with garlic and Thai basil and possibly a few vegetables

49.  Pad Ga Pow Moo Kai Dow*- stir fried chicken or pork with Thai basil, chilies, and a fried egg on the side, served over a bed of rice (this dish is popular and always available at every eatery, something to rely on)

Pad Ga Pow Moo Kai Dow

50.  Gai Pad Nam Man Hoy- stir fried chicken with salty oyster sauce and onions

Gai Pad Nam Man Hoy

51.  Gai Pad Met Ma Muang*- flavorful stir fried chicken with onions, cashew nuts, and dried chilies

Gai Pad Met Ma Muang

52.  Nor Mai Nam Pad Gung- stir fried shrimp with asparagus

53.  Pad Priew Wan Gai- chicken stir fried with peppers, cucumber, carrots, and onions, in a sweet and sour sauce

Pad Priew Wan Gai

54.  Pad Gai Tua Fock Yao- stir fried green beans with chicken and chilies

55.  Pad Tua Lantao Gung- stir fried snow peas with shrimp

56.  Tod Man Plah Klai- deep fried spicy fish cake

Tod Man Plah Klai

57.  Plah Kah Pung Neung Manow*- steamed snapper swimming in a vibrant green chili sauce and lemon juice

Plah Kah Pung Neung Manow

58.  Plah Tap Tim Tod Krob- fried and ultra crispy Red Tilapia

59.  Gaang Som Plah Chon**- an awe striking snake head fish swimming in a stunning sweet and sour soup and laced with herbs

Gang Som Plah Chon

60.  Plah Chon Lui Suan- steamed snake head fish with vegetables and served with a wondrous chili sauce

Plah Chon Lui Suan

61.  Plah Plow- highly salted Tilapia stuffed with lemongrass and lime leaves for flavor and then grilled to perfections

62.  Plah Chon Plow- grilled snake head fish prepared the same as plah plow

Plah Chon Plow

63.  Yam Plah Duk Foo*- deep fried fluffy catfish essence served with a sweet and sour peanut sauce of incredulence and garnished with onions, green papaya, and herbs

Yam Plah Duk Foo

Vegetables…Mostly

64.  Som Tam Plah Lah- green papaya salad mixed with a fermented fish sauce dressing, a taste many must get used to

65.  Som Tam Thai*- green papaya salad mixed with dried shrimp, peanuts, green beans, and then pounded in lemon juice, fish sauce, and sweet dressing

Som Tam Thai

66.  Som Tam Boo- green papaya salad with miniature crabs pounded into the mix

Som Tam Boo

67.  Tum Sua*- green papaya salad with rice vermicelli added for extra weight

Tum Sua

68.  Som Tam Tod- green papaya salad battered and deep fried with an exquisite sauce to accompany (rare dish, contact me)

69.  Tam Tang- similar to som tam but made with cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions instead of papaya, ultra fresh dish

Tam Tang

70.  Tow Hoo Song Kreung*- tofu stir fried with onions, tomatoes, peppers, carrots, and little bit of minced pork

Tow Hoo Song Kreung

71.  Kalam Bhee Pad Khai Sai Moo Saap*- stir fried cabbage, onions, and pork, then covered in raw egg and fried into a delicious delicacy

Kalam Bi Pad Kai Sai Moo Saap

72.  Gai Pad King*- stir fried chicken with huge amounts of grated ginger, mushrooms, and onions

Gai Pad King

73.  Pad Pak Gai- an assortment of stir fried vegetables with chicken (or any other meat you propose)

Pad Pak Gung

74.  Gai Pad Prik- stir fried chicken with peppers, green chili’s, and small vegetables

75.  Moo Pad Prik Yuak- stir fried pork with yellow green peppers, onions, and carrots

76.  Pad Pak Bung Nam Man Hoy*- stir fried morning glory and chili’s in oyster sauce

Pad Pak Bung Nam Man Hoy

77.  Pad Pak Bung Moo Saap*- stir fried morning glory with minced pork and chilies

78.  Kana Moo Krob- green kale stir fried with crispy pork and oyster sauce

Kana Moo Krob

79.  Pad Pak Ruam Mit- stir fried mixed vegetables with oyster sauce

80.  Pak Pak Ruam Mit Moo Prik Pow- stir fried vegetables and pork, fried in chili paste

Pad Pak Ruam Mit Moo Prik Pow

81.  Kao Yum- rice salad with special sauce

82.  Nam Prik Kaphi*- an assortment of steamed vegetables with a fermented shrimp paste chili sauce

83.  Nam Prik Plah Two- mixed vegetables and deep fried tuna with shrimp chili sauce

Noodles Dishes

84.  Gai Pad Kee Mau Sen Yai*- wide rice noodles stir fried up with an assortment of vegetables and chicken

Pad Kee Mau Sen Yai

85.  Pad See Eiu- wide rice noodles stir fried in soy sauce

86.  Guay Teow Khua Gai*- wide rice noodles fried with chicken and smothered in eggs and slowly cooked with salty meats

Guay Teow Khua Gai

87.  Pad Thai- classic dish of sweet and salty stir fried noodles with dried shrimp, peanuts, eggs, onions, and garnished with bean sprouts and spring onions

Pad Thai

88.  Guay Teow Lui Suan*- wide rice noodles wrapped into spring rolls and filled with ground meat, carrots, lettuce, Thai herbs to accompany, and outrageously delicious garlic sauce

Guay Teow Lui Suan

89.  Gung Ob Woon Sen- glass noodles with soy beans and steamed shrimp

90.  Yam Woon Sen- glass noodle salad with tomatoes, parsley, and onions

Yam Wun Sen

91.  Mee Krob- crunchy noodles with sweet sauce

92.  Guay Teow Ped- noodles on top of roast duck and brown gravy

93.  Larb Woon Sen- glass noodle salad with pork

94.  Pad Mi Kati- stir fried think pink rice noodles

95.  Sen Yai Latnaa*- wide rice noodles covered in a brown gravy of pork and small vegetables

Sen Yai Latna

96.  Guay Teow Rhua*- popular noodle soup with a choice of wide or thin noodles, and with pork, beef, or pork balls, and a sensational spicy broth, served in small bowls so you must eat 5 to 10

Guay Teow Rhua

97.  Sen Lek Nuaa*- choice of noodles with soup and chunks of beef, onions, and bean sprouts

Sen Lek Nuaa

98.  Ba Mi Tom Yum- thin egg noodles in a red spicy peanut soup broth

99.  Guay Jab- rolls of wide rice noodles in a salty soup with crispy pork

Guay Jab

100.  Yen Ta Fo- rice thread noodles in a pink tofu flamboyant soup base

For more Thai gourmet advice or if you want to feast, please contact me or leave a comment!

If your most outstanding Thai dish of indulgence has neglected to make the list, please let me know.  I would love to try it, and then include it on the list.

-Migration Mark

I spent 4 days in Jakarta before proceeding onwards in my journey through Indonesia towards Yogyakarta to climb Mt. Merapi and check out the Borobudur temple complex.  Jakarta is a massive bustling metropolis that can be somewhat overwhelming.

If you don’t just want to spend time getting lost in Jakarta’s labyrinth (which is usually a great thing to do), and have a few days, here are some worthwhile things to do. 

View Of Jakarta

Monas: National Monument

One of the central and noticeable landmarks in Jakarta is the Monas National Monument, known in slang terms as “Sokareno’s last erection.”  Located in the center of Merkeda (freedom) Square and park, the 137 meter monument can be scaled by elevator for a very modest fee. The result is a pretty compulsive view of greater Jakarta and the smog that consists.  The view is interesting and helps to get a little orientation for the urban agglomerate. 

Jakarta Mona National Monument

National Museum

On an aimless stroll around town, inhaling copious amounts of putrid fumes, I stumbled into the National Museum.  Resulting from extreme afternoon heat exhaustion, I decided to make an entrance.  The overall museum is actullay impressive and I would recommend it.  Artifacts from the expanse of the diverse Indonesian archipelago can be found in the museum.  Don’t miss the items varying from Papua penis gourds to ancient jewelry and skulls. 

Jakarta National Museum

Old Colonial Quarter (Taman Fatahillah)

The old Dutch settlement in Jakarta is a colonial throwback and provides vivid and interesting contrasts.  European buildings are shadowed by homeless sleepers, Gothic punk youth,  guitar freestylers, and the ever annoying tune of the ice cream cart.  Tropical palms, intense heat, and filthy maintenance, drown the Euro looking streets and architecture.  The Cafe Batavia in old town is a worthwhile place to wander and the staff will be friendly even if you don’t purchase anything.  Enter with a full bladder as the bathrooms are beautifully mirrored and uniquely designed. 

Historic Colonial Town Jakarta

Historic Town Jakarta

Food for Thought

At night, side street stalls will literally claim a section of road and string yellow and red canvas around their area to blockade it. Don’t hesitate to dive into delicious ikan bakar (grilled fish with killer sauce), mystery buffets of nasi campur, and other cheffed necessities.  For more information on food selection have a look at 9 mandatory foods to eat in Indonesia. 

Nasi Padang Food in Jakarta

Impromptu Bands

Makeshift cover bands and guitarists with 4 stringed guitars will come to you like ocean waves rolling into shore.  Some people sing poorly on purpose so you have to give them something small for them to leave. It’s not a bad idea to have a few 1000 Rupiah notes to get some of the most repugnant musicans to depart.  Other inspiring musicians are actually quite talented and might even deserve an applause.  Whether the music is good or bad, it does make for an interesting dinner or night of entertainment.  

Masjid Istiqlal Mosque

Islam is widespread in Indonesia and shrieks from mosques can be heard throughout Jakarta.  If you show up at the entrance to the world’s third largest mosque, Masjid Istiqlal, someone will be obliged to show you around the premises.  It is free to look, though after a while someone will ask for a donation. 

Masjid Istiqlal Mosque in Jakarta

Accommodation

The main area for budget accommodation and convenience is located on Jalan Jaksa, in a decent city location.  I stayed on a side foot road right off Jalan Jaksa at the Bloem Steen guest house.  The front veranda garden, sufficient room conditions, and free breakfast with great coffee, make this guest house recommendable. 

Note: Bewareof the touts and jokers on Jalan Jaksa who attempt to sway your decisions.  If in doubt, just be friendly and move along. 

Conclusion

In a city of 20 million, with people spanning from close and far out islands, the diversity and expression of Jakarta is enough to look at and then be enticed.  Indonesians are almost always friendly, so don’t fear getting disoriented and finding some ultra random places to hang out! 

-Migration Mark

No shower, check, no house cleaning, check, no bad thoughts or words, check, no hair cut, (haven’t in 15 months) check, engorge on delicious foods, check … WOW, Chinese New Years in Thailand is starting to sound a lot like my daily routine… in fact, I barely have to change anything.

With the Chinese influence in Thailand, being in Bangkok, and my half Chinese American-ism, there was tremendous reason to celebrate 2010 as the year of the Tiger on Feb 14th  and 15th, 2010.

Chinatown Yaowarat in Bangkok

I took the initiative to ask a few of my English students and Thai friends some of the most important aspects and traditions of Chinese New Years in Thailand.  Many said that it is a crucial time to see family and especially visit elderly relatives.

Some Notable Traditions for Thai Chinese New Years:

• Don’t wash hair/Don’t cut hair- you might wash away anything good for the year
• No house cleaning- you might clean out the wealth for the year
• No bad thoughts/ No cursing- will cause you to say nice things for the whole year and nice things will happen to you
• Wear new and colorful (red) clothes- because you want new things during the year and a fresh start
• Eat chicken or duck- you should simply eat chicken or duck or maybe fish because it’s delicious and it symbolizes prosperity

One of my students said that every Chinese New Years was a time when he and his entire family would gamble with small amounts of money.  Whoever won, would then be lucky for the rest of the year. Gambling however, was not allowed in his family except on this day.

Another friend mentioned that her family kept the lights on in the house throughout the night.  This tradition symbolizes a want for everything to be bright and clear the entire year.

Hong Bao is the New Years tradition that illuminated the faces of my students the most.  Give (invest) bright colored oranges to older relatives to pay respect, and then hope for a big monetary return.  Hong Bao is the tradition where the job holders or elderly give monetary gifts to the children or non workers of the family in a red Chinese envelope.   From their emotions, some of my students seemed to have done pretty well in the past.  You should normally spend most of the money given within the next few days.

Crowds at Chinese New Years Bangkok

On Sunday the 14th or February, I managed my way to Yaowarat (Bangkok Chinatown) to check out the festivities and more importantly partake of most things I saw.  The raod was shut from motor traffic and a stampede of humans were tip toe-ing and shoving to gain ground with aimless direction.  No one seemed to actually know where they were going, yet everyone was mingling in nonsense.

Snacks in Yaowarat Chinatown Bangkok

As the everlasting herded crowds were focusing on parades including the Princess, cheering to drumming dragon dances, and shopping at street stalls, my wonderful friends and I nestled into a 2nd floor restaurant to fulfill the final Chinese New Years vow; Delicious Food.

You should normally eat boiled chicken, however, duck, goose, and fish, are also acceptable  for gaining prosperity.    Dim Sum (steamed dumplings) as well as Sala Pao (steamed buns with pork inside) are also poplar menu items to munch.  To my relief Soup Number 5 is not a requirement!

Thai Lemon Sizzling Snapper

Our order was traditional Thai with Chinese influences.  The main event was a fashionable steamed Snapper swimming in boiling lemon and chili sauce (plah ka pung neung manow), with a few stunner companions consisting of Thai egg curry with squid (pad pongali plahmuk), oyster omellette on a hot plate (plasawan), stir fried morning glory (pad pak bung), and of course large bowls of steamed rice.

Peering Off the 2nd Floor at the Restaurant

Beyond satisfied and perspiring waterfalls, it was necessary to challenge the swarms and head back across Bangkok for some rest and relaxation.

-Migration Mark

I forced the cab driver to stop on the side of Sheikh Zayed highway and strained my neck to a 90 degree angle with my back. I had just landed in Dubai and I was trying to fathom the earth’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa Dubai.  The immensity of cranes dominating the skyline looked like flamingos on Lake Nakuru in Kenya. The tallest building shrimped all competitors and made everything else insignificant momentarily.

Transportation

Neither the Dodge Caravan nor the 100 cc family motorbike of Cambodia, are the family vehicles of choice, but rather the supercharged Range Rover or the Rolls Royce Phantom.  BMW’s and Benz’s are about as common as blue jeans in America.  I couldn’t count the number of times I had to throw my neck into an anti-chiropractic jerk to check out a custom Lamborghini or an Audi R8.  The bus system works if you are not in any sort of time constraint as it can take a while for the next bus to arrive.

Tip: The bus stops are chilled to 65 degrees if you need a short break from attempting to unwisely walk through Dubai like myself.

My great idea of walking through Dubai proved to be a challenge when the heat soared to 120 degrees and the suns rays offered zero mercy. With the supply of oil, a cab ride will not set you back all that much and is sometimes worth it in Dubai.

Accommodation

You can potentially pay anywhere from $50 to $15,000 for a nap in Dubai.  I stayed at one of the cheapest hotel options in Dubai and it cost about $60 for a room split by two.  The no frills Panorama Bur Dubai Hotel is located  in a decent area of Bur Dubai with decent transportation links.  The music bumped in the gentlemens club on the first floor and the complimentary continental breakfast was quite delicious.

Being a King

In order to feel of utmost importance or become a guru for a few hours, I would recommend a field trip to the three Dubai hotels of stature, the Burj al Arab, the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, and my favorite, the Arab designed and decorated Madinat Jumheirah Resort.

The cheapest way to enter the Burj al Arab compound of prestige in order to admire the solid gold interior is to make reservations for afternoon tea and then show up in formal clothes, act like you are rich, and pay your $100.  I reserved, I showed up, I acted, but I failed the dress code, and therefore was not permitted inside.  Luckily, the other two stunning hotels nearby blew my mind and fulfilled my craving to act like a king for an afternoon.

Feasting

I could not afford a single bite to eat in the upscale Jumeirah area and would never force myself into a Western food chain.  I also intended to eat the local-ist of all cuisine available. There are thousands of construction workers who are not the loaded Ferrari drivers who eat Kobe beef and caviar with routine. Venture towards Bur Dubai, Al Mankhool, or Al Karama areas for incredible skewers of grilled chicken, beef, lamb, naan, pita, and an assortment of other gloriousness.  The eateries are open very late accomodating to people of all different schedules.  Eat well!!!

Shopping till Flopping

Loads of shopping can drive me mentally insane, especially after spending 3 days in Hong Kong and braving the malls from Bangkok to Manila.

That being said, the shopping malls of Dubai have been elevated and are still expanding to an absurd degree.  If you fancy to snowboard or ski down slopes, head to the Mall of the Emirates.  If you want crazy interior design check out the Ibn Batusta Mall.  For other gobs of consumerist goods visit any of the other shopping mega structures like the world’s largest, The Dubai Mall.

Old Historical Town Dubai

Across the creek from most of the hype is old town Dubai.  It is a great area to explore traditional Arab and modern technology colliding. Gold and spices are abundant as are trinkets and other antique items.  Humans hustle across streets and SUV’s cruise past khaki colored Minarets that sprout all around.   The gold and spice souk’s are well worth exploring.

Sand Safari Cruising

An abundance of tour companies offer desert safari drives through topsy sand dunes.  Our Land Cruiser chauffeur piloted us toward the Omani border.  Before indulging into the dunes, our driver released pressure from our tires and proceeded to floor our vehicle across the seas of sand.  With sliding motions it did actually feel like we were riding a wave.  At sunset, gobs of other sand sliders (tourists), congregated in an Arab tent for a traditional feast and a bit of sweet sheesha.  The overall trip was highly entertaining and I was impressed by how fun driving across sand dunes was.

Anthropological Zoo

The Dubai International Airport is a form of anthropological zoo and a paradise for looking at people and a nightmare for trying to take a nap.  Another brilliant idea of spending the last night at the airport and catching my flight to Dar Es Salaam in the morning worked, but wasn’t too relaxing.

In the midst of countless Arabs in keffiyah’s, shoeless Indian Guru’s, Japanese businessmen, lost Europeans, and colorful West Africans, I was able to search out a 6 by 1 foot area to call it a night. In between two airport support pillars, I curled into a slumber.  An hour later I awoke to a sleeping Oriental at my head, an Egyptian at my side, and an assortment of others surrounding me.  Awesome!

Somethings in Dubai are jaw dropping and other things are simply ridiculous.  Money departs with ease, and many don’t seem to mind.  With the overall world hype and buzz, Dubai is a place that those who haven’t gone are curious, and those that have gone might not need to go again. I can say that the shear feats of engineering and architecture are incredible to check out.

If you have been to Dubai, Please share your thoughts!

-Migration Mark

Buenos Aires, Argentina

With the barest essential of all plans, I jetted to Buenos Aires, Argentina, to take a one month Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages (TESOL) course with TEFL International Buenos Aires.  Apparently, TESOL and TEFL are practically the same thing.

Still dazzled and overwhelmed with kilos of beef due to my recent landing in Argentina, the course started off on schedule.  The course was held in the ritzy district of Recoleta in a beautiful historical mansion known as the Recoleta Institute.   The prestigious and very European area of Buenos Aires is home to  numerous fancy restaurants, delightful delicatessens, fruit stores, deep fried Empanada joints, and milanesa sandwiches.

The 4 Week Course:

The first day of class was filled with individual introductions, the confusion of trying to figure things out in a new place, and attempts to predict that the class would not be overly terrible.  Our professors made haste to give us the syllabus that turned our hopes around and made everyone cringe.  The requirements looked to be of Harvard prestige and were reinforced by the two professors letting us know that we had a lot of work to get done in the next 4 weeks.

It doesn’t take long for a group of about 20 recent university grads to get to know each other better than by using the medium of dislike for “English grammar.”  Indeed there is always the outliers who seem to have picked up the present perfect continuous tense and know exactly how to explain it.  As is expected, I instantly forgot most of the grammar we went over in the course.

The first week was an introduction and refresher to English grammar, a confusing introduction to phonology, and a summary of the theories of learning English as a second language.  One of our professors was Irish and taught us a basic amount of Gaelic without any usage of English in order to demonstrate how we could equally teach English to non speakers using zero of their native tongue.

The other portion of the course was dedicated to the practice of lesson planning and then the reality of teaching classes.

In order to obtain the internationally recognized certificate of TESOL, 6 hours of teaching experience are required.  The classes were in front of eight students who were eager to learn and for the most part participate.  Another 6 hours or so of observing other student teachers was required.

The nervousness I experienced being a debut professor was horrendous.   However, after just six lessons I was able to gain a better understanding of the nature of teaching English, and a beginning to overcome a fear of public speaking.  I learned that with teaching, it is important to have a well thought out mental game plan of a lesson and an activity to take up time at the end.

Our class which consisted of about 20 people, soon realized that sleep deprivation was something that would be unavoidable throughout the duration of the course due to the everlasting options of entertainment and nightly festivities Buenos Aires had to offer.  During the course, the drug of choice was coffee, which everyone sought after and gobbled up before the next person.

Our class was a wonderful group of individuals and I made some great future contacts and friends through the TESOL International Course in Buenos Aires.

Was It Worth It:

At a cost $1790 there is reason to research and think hard about the advantages and disadvantages about taking a TESOL course.  At the beginning, I justified the steep cost as a continuation to my university education and in order to obtain an internationally recognized certificate that is valid for the rest of my life.

A year later I began teaching kids at English camps in Thailand and the TESOL course provided a bit of confidence and backbone that I needed to speak in front of crowds and come up with games and activities in a flash.  When the camps ran out, I fetched a decent job teaching English in Bangkok at a private institute that required a TESOL certificate and paid a higher than average salary.  From the course, I knew a little of what to expect, and my illness of speaking in front of groups was for the most part cured.

The obvious steep price is one of the only drawbacks to the course.  There were a few other things that could have been improved.  As students we didn’t really get to observe classes taught by experienced teachers which could have been a help.  The overall material could have been arranged a little more organized as sometimes we didn’t know what was going on in terms of scheduling.  More insight into forming lesson plans would have made the course run smoother.

Conclusion:

I would conclude that a TESOL course is worth taking as a step in the right direction if you ever want to teach English somewhere in this world.  The course is also likely to teach you a few personal lessons that could be beneficial even if you don’t want to teach.  With a full one month TESOL certificate and a year or two of added teaching experience, scoring an English teaching job somewhere in the world should be effortless.

Final Word: Taking a TESOL or TEFL Course is well worth the money and Buenos Aires is an amazing place to do it.

If you do plan to take a TEFL course, I would recommend the full 1 month course instead of the online or 2 week course.

At times, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, can feel a bit hectic and maybe a little intimidating.  I thoroughly enjoyed my stay and while there learned various survival tactics in order to make visiting Phnom Penh slightly easier and more manageable.    Some of these survival tactics might even teach you a few lessons on how to be native in Cambodia.  In any way, have an awesome time in Phnom Penh; a city that I consider to have a great mixture of entertainment, delicacies, humor, and great folks.

Phnom Penh

1.  Tune Out a Little

It is utterly unavoidable that all operators of all forms of motorized transportation will pursue you for a ride.  Motorcycles will pass, notice you are a foreigner, and then reverse in an attack to secure a job.  If you say “no” they will smile and ask again as if you didn’t hear them, over and over.

Survival: If you don’t want to eventually go slightly crazy, nod negatively with a friendly smile on your face continuously.

2.  Chat with Locals

Most locals in Phnom Penh are genuinely friendly and more than willing to converse.  Around the main tourist sector some of the touts have become a little dodgy but are still very friendly.

Survival: Avoid the tourist areas and chat or ask for advice from local Cambodians.  Many are awesome to talk to and speak English surprisingly well.

3.  Have Food to Give Away

There are many beggars in Phnom Penh who hold out their hands and request some form of monetary currency, US Dollars being the most widely begged.  I don’t particularly always support the giving of money as it can be highly misused.  I however do support helping others if they really need a basic necessity.

Survival: Have some form of food or snacks (bananas, nuts, jackfruit) readily available to distribute to the hands that ask for the US Dollars.

Traffic Phnom Penh

4.  Cross the Streets

At rush hour, there is an always present flow of steaming traffic with few traffic lights, leaving next to zero options to cross from side to side.  One night I failed my brilliant idea to cross the street on foot by sprinting and then merging myself into the traffic…didn’t work.

Survival: A group is the best way to cross the street.  Stay huddled and move from one lane to the next (be in the middle).  If you are alone, slowly proceed one step at a time.  If someone is about to hit you, hold out your hand and always attempt to make eye contact.  Get across the street slowly and cautiously.

5.  Afternoon Coffee Break

With the French influence (similar to relaxing in Vientiane Laos), coffee shops in Phnom Penh serving stout brews are abundant.  When you order an afternoon coffee, a complimentary pot of Chinese tea is also served to you (or 6 pots in my case).  Not a bad deal in my opinion.  Many coffee shops will also offer bread or a delicious dim sum Chinese steamed bun known as Banh Bao which is a bit of a comfort food for me.

Survival: To remain calm and collected amidst a backdrop of chaos, enjoy a quiet afternoon coffee and tea.  The combination’s of caffeine will always result in positive effects.  I frequented a place right across the street from the Russian Market where many coffee houses await.

Afternoon Tea

6.  Accommodation

My stay in Phnom Penh was indeed a pleasant one and fit well within my designated budget.  Around the Boeung Kak Lake, there are numerous guest houses offering satisfactory lodging options.  I stayed at the No Problem guest house at the end of Street 93.

Note: The lake is being developed and filled in with land and may not be around for too much longer.

Survival: Get a room with a friend or two on the Boeung Kak lake front for about $4 and you most likely can sustain living life for quite a sum of time.

7.  Food Partaking

I wasn’t going to let this article slip away without the mention of a few of the delicacies that are imperative to stuff.  Local Cambodian food is exquisite and ranges from delicious ginger chicken to coconut fish curry and bitter melon pork.  The sauces and chili sauces accompanying are equally seductive.  Num Pang, or baguettes stuffed with pate, luncheon meat, vegetables, and sauces, are superb and resemble the Laos version of the sandwich.  The famous tamarind juice from the Kandal Market was unbelievable.

Survival: Try anything and everything especially if it looks good and the eatery is hopping with business.  Here are a few suggestions:

• Num Pang (Baguette Sandwich)- Located all over the city.  For an awesome experience go to the Wat Phnom Garden round-a-bout near the Cambodian-Japanese Friendship Bridge.
• Amok Trey- Stunning fish in a coconut blended curry.  Find this dish all over the city.
• Cha Knyey- Braised chicken with pepper and loads of ginger.  I ate this dish in the Old Market (Psah Chas).
• Nom Banhchok (Cambodia Noodles)-  Rice noodles with vegetable and awesome sauce and chilies.
• Tamarind Juice: Get lost in Kandal Market and ask for it!

Num Pang Sandwich

8.  Heat Stroke

The afternoon sun in Phnom Penh penetrates with a brute force.  It can dehydrate you and take advantage of you with haste.  Don’t be a victim to the harsh rays.

Survival: water, hat, sunscreen, hydration, rest, coconut juice, tamarind juice

Coconut Hydration

9.  Money Exchange

The US Dollar and Cambodian Riel (KHR) are interchangeable currencies in Cambodia.  However, on the street, the exchange rate is lower than what local banks and exchanges offer.

• Street/Business:       $1=4000KHR
• Bank or Exchange: $1=4155KHR to 4200KHR (at our visit it was 4190KHR)

Ultimate Survival (Note: figures are when I was in Phnom Penh in Jan 2010):

1. A standard meal on the street will cost $1 or 4000KHR
2. Instead of using $1, exchange it at a convenient exchanger for 4190KHR
3. If you exchange $20 you will get 83,800KHR which the banker will round up to 84,000KHR
4. You will have made 4000KHR, or more importantly a Khmer LUNCH
5. Do this everyday and it is the ultimate survival tactic for Phnom Penh

Cambodian Riel and US Dollar

Migration Mark had a glorious time in Phnom Penh discovering awesome things and researching migrationology.

From spending 24 Hours at Angkor Wat to aimlessly walking around the capital of Phnom Penh, in order to fit in to the Cambodian lifestyle, you will need to follow a few or possibly all of these tips.

1.  Parkas and Gore-Tex

If you venture outside or somewhere onto the street, whatever you do, don’t forget the North Face down parkas.  Locals don’t appreciate the glorious sunshine.  I saw numerous people rocking the latest in mittens, leggings,  scarves, and long johns.

2.  100cc Family Vehicle

The Dodge Caravan is no longer the family of 5 vehicle of choice.  Rather a family of five or six (and 2 or 3 generations at that) comfortably manages to finagle their way onto a 100cc Honda motorbike and cruise from place to place as a routine activity.

3.  Guerrilla Marketing

Local Cambodians have taken guerrilla marketing to the highest of world levels.  If you have something to offer, offer it at a price (includes advice).  If you have a 2 seater motorbike, ask everyone if they need a ride, even if it’s obvious they don’t.  If you have scissors, offer a haircut.  If you have hands, just start massaging unsuspecting victims.  And by the way, getting rejected 5 or 6 times is absolutely “NO” reason to give up.

4.  Wear Pajamas

This mostly goes to females and is directly correlated with the winter gore-tex.  Women love pajamas.  It is a frequency to see ladies dodging across traffic on streets, riding side saddle, or vending, all while  sporting the latest in Berenstain Bears or Digimon.  If you leave the house, don’t forget to “NOT change,” or if anything, add a parka, mittens, and a scarf to the repertoire.

5.  Invent the Remix

You better be up on the latest rap and pop songs, because they need to be remixed in Khmer, ASAP.  As I heard very familiar rap songs blasting on buses and in restaurants, very unfamiliar voices were projected.  If you are good at remixing, a video must also be produced, like Ghost Ride the tuk tuk in Bangkok.

6.  Overload Your Vehicle

If you have a truck, it is mandatory to load it to capacity, then add a few more tons of cargo, then add a couple family vehicles on top (100cc’s), and then add a couple generations of families to the very top.  This must be done even if no one really wants to go anywhere.  After completion of loading, you can get more advice from how to successfully drive a car in Indonesia.

Overloaded Truck in Phnom Penh

7.  Play House

Get comfortable on microscopic tables and chairs and sometimes using tiny utensils or other “play house” essentials.  The toy food sets and furniture I played with when I was a kid, become a full grown adults reality when eating outstanding cuisine on the streets of Phnom Penh.

8.  Chill Out

If there is not much to do in the afternoon it is required to take a nap on the back of a motorbike, in a hammock, on a fence pole, or with your leg vertically propped in some position that looks ridiculously uncomfortable.

If you can master these daily norms you will easily fit in and possibly even start to become a local Cambodian.

-Migration Mark

Cambodia Border Entrance

1.  Mo Chit Station- Bangkok

Start at Mo Chit Station- Bangkok’s Northern bus terminal.  Take a bus to Aranyaprathet that departs every 30 minutes starting at about 4 am for the price of around 200 baht (US $6).  Bus takes about 4 hours. 

2.   Rongklua Market- Border

The bus will either take you all the way to the border or it will drop you in town and you will need to spend less than 100 baht (US $3) on a tuk tuk to the actual border at Rongklua Market. 

CAUTION: If you take a tuk tuk, don’t let the driver take you to a middle man to get your visa.  Go all the way to the border and get it officially so you don’t get ripped off.  Insist that the tuk tuk takes you to the border, if the tuk tuk tries to stop at a visa service, tell him to continue onwards. 

3.  Border Crossing 

Handle Thai immigration and walk through the Cambodian arch and finish the paperwork and payment of US $20 for a Cambodian Visa (have some US $ on you). You will then be lead to a FREE government shuttle bus (hassle free) which will take you a few kilometers into Poipet to the tourist taxi and bus station. 

The choice of transportation to Siem Reap is either bus or private taxi.  The bus usually costs $8 per person while the taxi costs $12 per person.  However, the buses are rather infrequent with one in the morning and one in the evening.  If you have a group, kindly finagle a taxi and strike a deal.  Joining with a few other travelers, we were able to get a taxi for 5 for US $40, splitting the cost.  You kind of need to haggle a deal  but will probably pay somewhere around $10 per person. 

4.  Poipet to Siem Reap

The 2 hour taxi ride will take you into the town of Siem Reap where most likely it will drop you off at a tuk tuk stop where all kinds of middle men will try to give you a free ride to a guest house in an effort to sell you a tuk tuk for the next day and make a commission on the guest house.  We were taken to the decent Green Town Guest House and accepted the offer, though you have NO obligation.  The tuk tuk driver will also attempt to get work for the next day by offering to take you to tour the temples, in my opinion not a bad offer.  If you want nothing to do with their services, kindly ask them to take you to your guest house of hotel of choice.

5.  Siem Reap Tuk Tuk

To hire a tuk tuk for an entire day of temple hopping should cost about US $12. Haggle a little and eventually reach a similar price. 

OVERVIEW: The transportation from Bangkok to Siem Reap takes approximately 7 hours and costs approximately US $15-20 with very little pain and not too much effort. 

Recommend: 

I would recommend leaving Mo Chit bus station at about 6 am.  If you arrive in Siem Reap in the afternoon you can purchase a single day ticket ($20) to the temples at 5 pm.  This allows you to see the sunset and have the entire following day at the same cost and then maximize 24 Hours at Angkor Wat Temples.  We organized a tuk tuk for the first evening and the entire following day for $14 and had an outstanding trip!

-Migration Mark

With a time constraint in Cambodia, I was only able to allot a single day to the brilliant World Heritage Site of the Angkor Wat Temples near Siem Reap.  I was able to see a significant amount of temples that were truly spectacular in complete regards.

The single day really began on the evening before the day.  We arrived to Siem Reap in the mid afternoon and tuk tuked our way to the entrance by around 5pm.  If you arrive at 5pm, you can purchase your $20 single day ticket in the evening for the following day.  That way you can observe the sunset at a temple of choice to get the slightest bit more bang for your buck.

The next day began well before dawn with a massive congregation of camera flashing happy humans at the Angkor Wat Temple.  The crimson sun rose, the cliche of tourist huddled together in awe and the stones glistened to reveal their antiquity.  The antique towers of Angkor Wat were reminicent of Prambanan Temple in Indonesia, yet on much more significant foundation and overall larger structure.   

Walking around the temple was staggering.  The stones are neatly fitted in place, the steps are steeply designed, and the carvings and reliefs are intricately carved.  As I caressed the moldings with my naked fingertips, I could only marvel at the time and effort that normal humans put forth to create such aesthetic beauty.  Many of the reliefs appeared similar to what I had seen at the Buddhist Borobudur Temple in Indonesia. 

A rush of a tuktuk ride and we were hurled towards the stunning Bayon Temple in it’s ruinous glory.  This temple couldn’t help me from thinking that I was Socrates himeself in the midst of a philosophical genius of a thought.  The temple emerges from a foundation of crumbling stones and rises with sets of posts and lintels and heaps of stone blocks.  On entrance, one can observe ornate details of teachings and thoughts engraved into the lichen covered stones.    

By late morning we had arrived at the Preah Khan Temple.  This temple seemed to continue on a single floor for a couple hundred meters as doorways lead to hallways and hallways opened into caverns. 

Thommanom and Chau Say Thevoda Temples were less impressive if compared with the others, yet still gorgeous in all manners without comparisons.

The next temple was the Ta Keo.  The steep and narrow steps lead directly to the summit for an incredible view and pleasant thigh burning hike to the top.

When the fatigue of my body began to kick in we proceeded to the famous Jungle Temple, also known as the Ta Prohm Temple.  Though the masses also chose to visit it at our precise time, all was worth it.  The vines and trees were holding the ancient blocks in place and binding the entirety of the temple together in a splendid view.

In conclusion our tuk tuk driver shuttled us to the Banteay Kdei and Sras Srang Temples.  As my buttocks sank into the comfy tuk tuk seat I didn’t really desire to get up and walk around any longer.  I fought with comfort and forced my legs back into walking conciousness.  Luckily the temples were not as impressive as all the former and 15 minutes was enough. 

As the sun sluggishly set over Angkor Wat, my aching thighs were relaxing and my mind was enthralled in ancient thought as I gushed back into the throne of the tuk tuk and felt like a Pharaoh.

Allow your travels to eventually meander towards Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor Wat.  The architects and engineers were beyond their years and demonstrated the human ability of imagination, creativity, and construction skills.  Though thousands of appreciative spectators have realized this too, it doesn’t miss direct the quality of such man made structure of extravaganza.

-Migration Mark

When 2009 rolled in, I had just returned to the the United States from Patagonia to attend my sisters wedding in Phoenix, Arizona.

It was in February 2009 under the influence of a carne asada burrito that I decided it was time to record my migrationology travels in the form of online documentation. I knew next to nothing about the web world, (twitter was literally just the sound of a bird to me).  Utilizing gallons of my parents coffee and my addiction to yerba mate from Argentina, along with free internet, I gave birth to Migrationology.

1. United States

• Flew to Honolulu, Hawaii, along with buddy David Damron from Life Excursion for a few weeks to visit relatives, do nothing on beaches, and never resist copious amounts of food.
• Lopsidedly balanced Waiola Shave Ice and extremely fried Mitsu Ken Garlic Chicken with hikes to Koko Head Crater and Makapu’u Lighthouse.

(check out the full USA gallery)

2. Malaysia

• Treated myself to my debut fish spa massage which left me giggling like a 10 year old.
• Enjoyed the Northern island of Langkawi.
• Had my first enlightening experience with the King Of Fruits while I tackled the Durian buffet!

(check out the full Malaysia gallery)

3. Indonesia

• Came face to face with orangutan’s in Bukit Lawang, Sumatra.
• Experienced ultimate peaceful relaxing on the shores of volcanic Lake Toba in Sumatra.
• Climbed to the top of the deadly Mount Merapi Volcano on the island of Java, near Yogyakarta.
• Marveled at the impressive Hindu Prambanan Temple and Buddhist Borobudur Temple near Yogyakarta.
• Visited the Bali House of Life orphanage near Bali Cliff where we played games and football all day.
• Learned how to successfully drive a car in Indonesia.

(check out the full Indonesia gallery)

4. Singapore

• Aimlessly walked around and glamoured at the cleanliness and neatness of the manicured gardens and cityscapes.
• Couldn’t resist the Golden Mile food center or partaking of the famous chili crab and Singapore chicken rice.

(check out the full Singapore gallery)

5. Philippines

• Became a millionaire for the price of $35.32 on the island of Palawan while sitting on private beaches and eating entire crabs by the mouthful.
• In Manila I was able to feast on fetus (balut) and 1 day old chickens that KFC can’t compare to.
• Volunteered with Gawad Kalinga to build houses with hope and heard powerful stories from people like Tita Silver while being immersed in Payatas.
• Hiked the most incredible rice terrace scenery from the Mayoyao Paradise rice terraces to the 2000 year old rice terraces of Batad with 116 levels.
• Couldn’t believe I was in South East Asia while spending time in the glorious evergreens and caves of astonishing Sagada.

(check out the full Philippines gallery I and Philippines gallery II)

6. Thailand

• Thailand is where booty shaking in Bangkok and ghostride the tuk tuk with Thrilling Heroics and In Search of Sanuk emerged.
• Hung out with In Search of Sanuk by way of expending energy with awesome kids and celebrating with elderly folks.  Little things make a difference when you relate and talk to others.
• The annual vegetarian festival in Bangkok proved to be much more delicious than it sounded at the time.
• Taught English at kids camps around Thailand and learned how to become an instant celebrity and get a little pay in the process.
• Celebrated Christmas in Bangkok with the company of wonderful friends and unbeatable Thai food!

(check out the full Thailand gallery)

7. Laos

• Learned how to make a Thailand visa run to Vientiane Laos.
• Hung out in the colonial French quaint town of Luang Prabang, relaxed by the river, read books, and shopped for the first time ever for souvenirs.
• Spent 2 delightful days relaxing on a slow boat while boating the Mekong River.

(check out the full Laos gallery)

8. Hong Kong

• Observed the most concrete structures I have seen in my life while spending 3 days in Hong Kong.
• Made conclusions about late night dim sum in Hong Kong while successfully attempting to eat unhealthy amounts of my favorite dumplings.

(check out the full Hong Kong gallery)

9. Cambodia

• Gawked at the amazing temples of Angkor Wat in Seam Reap (still gawking).
• Ushered in 2010 to the local countdown in Phnom Penh with fireworks and Khmer dancing and songs.

(check out the full Cambodia gallery)

-Migration Mark