denim news

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 03:36:00 +0000

Rising Sun: Part II

Rising Sun makes their denim pieces in the small workshop behind their haberdashery in Pasadena, CA. To understand the significance of this we should look at the status quo of jeans production. Generally speaking in today's fashion industry designers "create" on paper and rely on factories to deliver a product that hopefully matches their specifications. To have your own cutting and sewing capability means to be empowered to produce a product that satisfies you 100%.

Talking to the passionate propreitor Mike Hodis you will see he not only holds this uncompromising stance but takes it to the next level. His workshop produces garments to his full specs completely on antique black head sewing machines.

There is a wild excitement to knowing the stitches on your jeans were created on the Singer black head single needle sewing machine. The sleek and minimalist appearance of this industrial strength machine offers stark contrast to the other black head machines with their complex, elegant motions. This black beauty was utilized between the late 20's and 50's. It would have been used for operations on Levi's buckle back garments. This would have been one of the machines that created the uneven, single needle arcuate stitches you see on vintage Levi's.

Singer Single Needle:

Next up is the Singer black head lap seam machine. "Easily from the 30's," boasts a proud Hodis. When you look at certain vintage workwear garments and observe a double needle chainstitched fell seam it was likely done on this machine. Those who study the details of vast amounts of vintage garments will notice that some double needle chainstitches have just a tad smaller width between the two stitches than those found on garments produced with more modern equipment. It is this "perfect gauge" that makes this machine so special. A small tidbit: this machine is fondly referred to by machine operators as Cabillo (horse) for its resemblance to a black stallion (where's your imagination?). It happens to also be a workhorse machine for Rising Sun.

Cabillo:

But the rarest machine of them all is surprisingly responsible for one of the most overlooked details on denim garments: the button hole. A beautiful button hole with vintage characteristics is a very tricky thing to create. Rising Sun skips all the modern interpretations and goes straight to holy grail of vintage sewing machines with his black head Singer keyhole machine. By all rights and reason Hodis should really "donate" this majestic creature to a museum to preserve for all time but instead it is in the back of his haberdashery creating keyholes for garments that only the true enthusiast can appreciate. It is nearly impossible to find in operable condition.

The rare black head Singer keyhole machine:

This antique machine is over 70 or 80 years old and creates some of the most graceful keyholes you will see. The stitches are much tighter and does not extend into the garment as much as modern button holes do. After the stitches are put down Rising Sun workers hand cut the holes required for buttons. This is done with an old hand cutting tool.

Hand cutting tool for keyholes, made by Heinisch:

Between listening to Hodis talk about the cams, shafts, and belts of certain sewing machines and studying his garments it became very obvious that it is one thing to design vintage details (hidden rivets, back buckles) into clothes and an entirely different thing to create them using period-correct methods and machines. In the next post we will explore this idea further and look at some of the clothing Rising Sun produces.

Rising Sun Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 04:41:00 +0000

Rising Sun & Co.

To say the least: Rising Sun & Co. makes some awe inspiring denim garments. If there exists articles of clothing that makes me wonder my worthiness of their nuances then it is likely that Rising Sun's propreitor Mike Hodis made it. The machine-obsessed genius has spent a lifetime acquiring both knowledge and sewing technology of eras past. Some of his sewing machines are so rare that any other collector in his right mind would condition them for archive grade safe keeping.

But as Hodis puts it his venture to create clothing with some of the most true-to-period construction details was born more of "passion than reason."

My initial encounter with Hodis marked my early foray into the world of sewing machines. While comfortable discussing the workings of a selvage loom's take up motion or fill change mechanism I was not equipped to talk sewing machines at this level of expertise. My proud proclamation of having acquired a 43200G Union Special bulldog hemmer was met with sober declaration that the coveted chainstitch machine is in fact not all that special in his world.

He went on to speak about his much rarer "black head" (for the machine head's color) Union Special used in production for the Rising Sun & Co. line in the workshop behind his store in Pasadena, CA. Of how it is from the 1920's and the fact that it has ornate "Union Special" lettering aligned in an arc sets it apart from the "newer" black head Union Specials.

Months pass before I garner enough courage to trade my ignorance for knowledge and find that the enthusiastic Hodis is in fact very eager to share his love for denim and sewing machines with a fellow denimhead.

In the next blog posts I will discuss important insights Hodis imparts and the philosophies that makes Rising Sun & Co. one of the most important American influence in the denim market today. Stay tuned!

Rising Sun & Co. Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 18:43:00 +0000

Self Edge is Coming to New York

Just got confirmation that Self Edge is opening a store in New York's Lower East Side on July 15. It will be on Orchard Street near Rivington Street.

Self Edge is one of the few places in the US to buy clothing made from rare Japanese and American selvage denim.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 03 May 2009 14:16:00 +0000

Did The Stronghold Use the Ecofont in 1904?

I learned about the Ecofont at Friday's WGSN web seminar. By inserting blank circles into the text the free-to-use Ecofont helps save ink and money and aspires to help us be more green.

I could not help but notice how an old ink stamp print from The Stronghold uses similar blank spots. I doubt The Stronghold was thinking about sustainability in 1904 but whether the empty spots were employed to save ink or used as aesthetics is not certain. I vote the latter.

Ecofont Website
WGSN Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:48:00 +0000

Well Worn Foreman Blues

I have been thinking a lot about the aesthetics of tailored workwear. I am specifically interested in the "dressed up" workwear, both imagined and historical, made of unrefined materials.

In this concept we find inspiration in the often scorned, antihero foreman. His work on the factory floor necessitates clothing strong enough for manual labor in begrimed environments full of potentially hazardous equipment. To earn the trust and respect of the workers he oversees he must be prepared to roll up his sleeves in the trenches. Yet his daily business and frequent reporting to superiors requires him to be presentable in offices dominated by high-waisted jackets, waistcoats, and ties.

The internal alchemy of our protagonist consists of pragmatism mixed with a homebrewed brand of righteousness and a dash of ambition. A life of hard labor has instilled in him a proud work ethic, which has finally earned him a precarious position of comfort. His daily dealings with the politics of both labor and management at once restrains and informs his purchasing decisions.

The act of thoughtfully choosing clothing has cultivated his own sense of style, whether he is cognizant of this fact or not. The options of ready made clothing that fit his needs were limited. Levi Strauss' Spring Bottom Pants in gold back denim were popular among like-minded foremen and factory supervisors. What he could not find in stores he commissioned from a tailor versed in the dandy fashion of local businessmen. And of course he never missed an opportunity to network with other waiting patrons.

The vision of a well outfitted foreman will be an inspiration to my work in the coming months.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 14:56:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: Guns, Germs, and Machetes

In the latest installment of Lynn Downey's adventuring in Panama we get to see the Indiana Jones side of her job complete with monkeys and machetes. Read on.

She has written the below for the media, employees of Levi Strauss & Co., and this blog.

TALES FROM THE ARCHIVES
"Trains, Boats and Trails: The Final Day"

When we last left Levi Strauss (and me) in Panama, he had taken the railroad partway across the isthmus, and floated for a few hours on the Chagres River. His next stop was probably the town of Gorgona and an uncomfortable trip on the only transport available for the final part of his trip: a mule.

There were two trailheads to get to Panama City from the interior: via Gorgona or Venta de Cruces. The decision on which trail to take depended on the weather. In the dry season (January to April) the Gorgona Trail was quicker, since you didn't have to stay on the river another few hours to get to Cruces. Because he arrived on the isthmus in February, it's likely Levi traveled from Gorgona, probably spending the night in town.

The next morning he had a choice: either walk to Panama City or ride a mule. I expect (and hope) that Levi could afford to rent a mule for this last part of the trip. Firms such as Hurtado y Hermanos kept stables full of the sturdy animals on hand for travelers, and once on his way it probably took him an entire day to get to the Pacific, where he caught a steamship for San Francisco.

When Gatun Lake was created by the construction of the Panama Canal, Gorgona and its trail were inundated. But the ruins of Venta de Cruces and its road still survive. My goal for this historical vacation was to experience every aspect of Levi's journey, so on the final day Hernán and I got into an Ancon Expeditions boat and zoomed across the lake to the beachhead of the Cruces Trail.

The trail is well-maintained, and the river rocks used by slaves to pave the road for the Spanish in the 16th century still littered the ground. We walked about a quarter mile to the ruins of the church of Venta Cruces, and Hernán showed me where the altar and side entrances used to be. We trekked a bit further and the road suddenly narrowed to only about twelve inches across. It reminded me of Hubert H. Bancroft's 1852 trip on the Gorgona trail: "Often we passed through ravines which had been washed out by the rain, and so narrow at the bottom that on entering at either end persons must shout in order to notify others wishing to come from the opposite direction."

As we got back into the boat I asked Hernán where the village of Gorgona used to be. We putted to another part of the lake near a tree-covered peninsula jutting into a small bay. "Most of it is underneath us," he said. Then he and the boatman Jacobo suddenly had a rapid conversation in Spanish. Hernán pointed to the nearby finger of land and said, "Jacobo has friends who've seen some old structures in there."

Well, of course we had to check that out, so Jacobo drove the boat deep into a narrow tributary, where the trees grew tall and forbidding, right down to the water line. We found a small spit of land and beached the boat, jumping off the bow and splashing into ankle-high water. Both men had machetes, and before leaving the boat Hernán slipped a 10mm pistol into his pocket.

I followed them at a cautious distance as they hacked away at the thick foliage. We walked uphill, grabbing at branches and exposed roots for balance, and I kept getting entwined in sharp vines that wouldn’t yield to a machete. The men were out of my sight for awhile, and then I heard an excited yell. I climbed faster and came upon Hernán pointing to a thirty-inch square rock and stone pillar, covered with dead leaves. There were at least six more in the same area and looked like the foundations of buildings or perhaps a bridge.

Had we found the last remains of the village of Gorgona?

The three of us wandered awestruck around the site for a long time. We couldn't get close to some of the pillars because the jungle growth was too thick, but that didn't lessen our excitement. I then noticed that I had a cut on the back of my ankle and a very bloody cut on my right index finger, which was drawing some interested insect life. But neither seemed serious, so we kept on exploring, and soon found a tiny brick arch set over what looked like a dry creekbed. Was it part of a sewer tunnel? A walkway over a rushing stream? We chatted about what we'd found as we walked back to the boat, and Hernan said he would talk to his cartographer/historian father about the site. Jacobo treated and bandaged my finger, I slapped some hand sanitizer on my ankle and we set off.

We sped across the lake for a a few minutes and the boat pulled up to another small island, where huge trees dipped over the water. Hernán and Jacobo pulled out bags of peanuts and cut-up bananas and started whistling. Within seconds the trees came alive with a family of white-faced Capuchin monkeys, who stood on the branches with their paws stretched out waiting for us to throw them some food. When that didn’t happen fast enough they leapt onto the boat, crawling along the edge or climbing onto the awning, running toward Jacobo for bananas, and also taking peanuts from my hands.

Lunch on yet another island, at a table under a thatched overhang, was next on the agenda (though Hernan had to shoo away a large flock of black vultures first). We ended the day at the Miraflores Locks visitor’s center on the Panama Canal, and I went back to the hotel to pack for my journey home.

I traveled to Panama to understand what it must have been like for Levi to make this tropical passage. I went to the same places he did, but I had to use my imagination to grasp what the experience itself was like. I spent my evenings in comfortable, clean hotels, ate delicious meals and rode from place to place in air-conditioned vans or on breezy speedboats, with insect repellant and sunscreen at my disposal. Levi was at the mercy of heat, bugs, bad water and food, and real personal danger, and I could never recreate that.

But being able to put my feet on the ground that he walked, to see the scenery and wildlife that he encountered, even just to smell the same scented air, has been the thrill of a lifetime.

By Lynn Downey

Text by Lynn Downey
Photos by Lynn Downey

Lynn Downey Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 22:55:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: Day Two

Lynn Downey sends us the following report from Panama. She has written it for the media, employees of Levi Strauss & Co., and this blog.

"Trains, Boats and Trails: Day 2"

After Levi got off the railroad about midway across the isthmus (as described in Day One), he joined his fellow passengers on a ride down the Chagres River. The Chagres was the lifeblood of historic Panama, for everyone from the indigenous Cueva people to the gold rushers of the 1840s and 1850s.

Until the Panama Railroad began running in 1851, Americans traveling to California via the isthmus had to take a multi-day river journey in small canoes. They stopped for the night at hotels which were sometimes nothing more than bug-infested canvas shacks, and during the day they sweltered in the sun or got soaked by drenching tropical rainstorms. After that was endured there was still a long walk or mule ride ahead of them. But surprisingly, many letters and diaries of isthmus travelers expressed wonder at the beauty of the river voyage and not its horrors.

Joseph Gregory, who published Gregory’s Guide for California Travellers via the Isthmus of Panama in 1850, said of his trip on the Chagres, "I received the greatest pleasure and never beheld more magnificent scenery, or luxuriant vegetation, than I witnessed while upon this river." Hubert H. Bancroft wrote of his 1852 river voyage: “Palm trees of various descriptions line the banks, and gorgeous water lilies dip their fragrant heads as the boat passes over them. Every shower of rain is like the sprinkling of perfume on the vegetation.”

On Day Two of my Panama adventure, I also got to experience the beauty of the Chagres. Early in the morning my guide Hernán and I drove into Chagres National Park outside of Panama City. There, we got into 15-foot long dugout canoes, made by the Embera people, who use them to take tourists up the river to their villages. The boats are long and narrow, with wooden slats for seats. There’s a man at each end; the one in the front has a very long pole, and the one at the back is in charge of something that would have made Levi’s trip a lot easier: an outboard motor.

Levi traveled in a flat-bottomed canoe called a "bungo," rather than the long dugout, maneuvered by native people who used long poles to push the boat along the riverbed. In February, when Levi crossed the isthmus, it was the dry season, so the river was sometimes quite low, making the transit into a crawl. It’s still the dry season in March, and we hit a few shallow spots ourselves, scraping the rocks and almost coming to a stop. When that happened the man in the front of the boat signaled to his partner in the back to cut the motor and he dug his pole into the river bottom, pushing our canoe along until we were free. It took about a half hour to get to the Embera Drua village, which we toured, and then we returned to the starting point the same way.

I thought a lot about Levi as we alternately zoomed or inched through the water. Although I was on a different part of the Chagres than Levi was, Hernán assured me that the scenery would have been the same, a wondrous green landscape which varied in color from emerald to palest jade. We saw fish of varying sizes in the clear water, and overhead flew egrets, herons and Amazon kingfishers. I could have stayed on that river all day.

Next on the agenda was a viewing of Hernán’s personal collection of historic maps of Panama. He is the son of Amado Araúz, a legendary explorer and cartographer, and Reina Torres de Araúz, Panama’s most revered anthropologist, and comes by his love of history naturally. A former diplomat, he is a naturalist and a historian, and was the perfect guide for my trip. He’s currently writing a book about maps of Panama which were published between the 16th and 19th centuries, and has been visiting archives and libraries all over the world.

Our final stop was the National Library of Panama, where the librarian, Nitzia Barrantes, let me view original issues of the Panama Herald. This was an English-language newspaper published for Americans and others making the trip across the isthmus to get to California. It had ads for hotels, bars, restaurants, and the latest news from the United States and Europe. It also – most importantly – advertised when the next steamers were headed to San Francisco.

As I wrote in my first article, Levi was able to travel by railroad about twenty-three miles inland before transferring himself and his baggage to boats on the Chagres River. From Barbacoas, where he got off the train, his boat went upriver to the town of Gorgona, a trip which probably took about four hours. He likely spent the night in Gorgona, to rest up for the final leg of his journey; or I should say, the final four legs of his journey. Details in the final installment.

By Lynn Downey

Text by Lynn Downey
Photos by Lynn Downey

Lynn Downey Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 13:45:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: Panama Day 1

After a full day of trekking and exploring Lynn Downey sits at her desk at the Panama House to recount her travels thus far.

But not before I bombarded her with eager questions. I intentionally did not pose the question I most wanted to ask until she had experienced her first day in Panama: What do you truly wish to discover on this trip?

Lynn Downey responds: “I’ve done all I can intellectually to understand Levi’s life by doing research in historical records. But what I want to do is come as close as possible to experience what his journey across the isthmus was like.

For me, history is a sense: a scent, something tangible to hold in my hand or to touch. I want to smell the air and the plant life, touch the water, rumble and rattle in the train and walk a jungle trail so that I can write more powerfully about what it must have been like for him.

He turned 24 years old on the trip to San Francisco. He had lived for 18 years in a tiny town in Bavaria and almost 6 years on the Lower East Side of New York. What must it have been like to see the tropics?”

She shares the below report with this blog, Levi Strauss & Co. employees, and other media.

"Trains, Boats and Trails: Day 1"

On this first day in Panama I did something Levi could never have dreamed of: I crossed the isthmus twice in one day.

My tour guide, Hernán Arauz, picked me up at my hotel in the historic quarter of Panama City and we spent most of the day driving through jungles and tiny towns to get to the Caribbean side of the isthmus. We saw an amazing variety of wildlife along the way: a tree sloth, howler monkeys, and a black and white anteater, which walked across the road right in front of our car and looked like a skunk with a really long nose.

[Photo: A howler monkey in the trees]

We then visited fort San Lorenzo and the town of Portobelo, built by the Spanish in the 16th and 17th centuries, when they were trying not to lose their treasure ships to pirates – a must for any Johnny Depp fan. Then we ended the day the way Levi started his: on a train.

From 1849 until the end of 1851, the only way to cross the 50-mile isthmus from the Caribbean to the Pacific side was in boats on the Chagres River, then by mule or on foot to Panama City over the old Spanish treasure trail. This trip could take days or even weeks, and along the way, travelers encountered bugs, heat and torrential rain, yellow fever, malaria, larcenous boatmen, and violent bandits, who robbed and murdered many a gold rush hopeful. It could also take weeks for a steam ship to show up in Panama City to take the miners and other entrepreneurs up to San Francisco.

But by the time Levi set foot on the isthmus around the second week of February, 1853, he was able to take the Panama Railroad to the town of Barbacoas, about 23 miles from Aspinwall, the landing site on the Caribbean. From there he took a boat on the Chagres to the trailhead for Panama City. Luckily for him, the bandits had mostly been dealt with by this time, thanks to the work of a former Texas Ranger named Randolph Runnels, brought to Panama specifically to handle the highwaymen (which he did by rounding up and hanging most of them without a trial).

The railroad had been conceived as a way to speed the U.S. Mail across the isthmus, but it turned out to be a boon to gold rush travelers, who were happy that they could ride even part way through the steaming jungle. Hubert H. Bancroft, an early historian of California and whose book collection formed the beginnings of the Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, crossed the isthmus in 1852, and also took the train. He wrote a memoir of his experience and included this comment: “Railway passengers wish the ride was longer, wish they could so ride all the way to San Francisco.”

The Panama Railroad was completed in 1855, and spanned the entire isthmus. This made the trip to California faster and more comfortable, though the Panama route was abandoned after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in the United States in 1869. The train was used by the French and the Americans during the canal building years and is now run for tourists.

We caught the train in Colón, not far from where Levi boarded. But before heading to the station we drove to an nearby area facing the Caribbean waterfront so I could see, out in the distance, where Levi’s ship from New York would have landed. Today’s Colón was yesterday’s Aspinwall, and it wasn’t hard to imagine the sight of a steamship heading toward the distant breakwater.

[Photo: The breakwater in Colon, on the Caribbean, where Levi's boat would have docked in 1853.]

We spent most of the train trip in the enclosed, air-conditioned car, but at one point headed out to a covered, open air platform, so I could come close to what Levi’s experience must have been like: hot, windy, and surrounded by dense mangroves, like being in a tunnel of leaves. Robert Tomes, who rode the railroad in 1855, described the varied scenery: “So we hurry from scene to scene, pushing on through the flood of tropical vegetation, with endless vistas of beauty that come and go like the dreams of a summer’s day.”

Today’s train parallels the old 1855 route, but many of the towns that it used to pass are now at the bottom of Gatun Lake, created by the construction of the Panama Canal. Barbacoas, where Levi got off the train to take the next step on his journey, found “a last resting place in the mud and slime” of the lake (New York Times, December 24, 1911). Hernán, a certified diver, told me that you can dive in Gatun near these places and touch the steeples of ancient churches.

Our trip across the isthmus took about an hour. In 1853 Levi took about two hours to go half as far. When my journey was over, I rode in a comfortable van to my equally comfortable hotel. But Levi still had places to go and things to do, which I’ll share with you next time.

By Lynn Downey

Text by Lynn Downey
Photos by Lynn Downey

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 16:23:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: Panama at Last

We checked in with our traveling historian. She has safely arrived in Panama and stayed the night at the historic Canal House in the old quarter of Panama City.

She sends us warm regards and a message. "I may be tired, but my plane flight and beautiful historic hotel suite are worlds more convenient than what Levi had to face. More on that in the coming days."

Today will be a day full of adventure.

We hope she finds what she seeks. Good luck, Lynn!

Photo from The Canal House

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 02:50:00 +0000

Who is Ande Whall? Part II

Ande Whall is one man who does not need to answer to questions of efficiency and costs associated with factory production. His dedication to giving customers handcrafted products show in the details. The usual construction points denimheads expect are present: hidden back pocket rivets, donut buttons, single needle stitching, hidden selvage on coin pocket with "peek-a-boo" detail, selvage fly, and the newly introduced chainstitched hems.

But there is more to it than meets the eye. My second pair of customized Ande Whall jeans (Raker model) shows some great details.

This jean comes with lined back pockets, which I sorely need.

The special, labor-intensive seams used to put together the back yoke and rise is particularly beautiful. This construction is found on garments from the late 1800's. Ande refers to it as the "late 1800's hand sewn flat felled seam." From inside the jean you will see only one stitch. The outside of the jean will show that two stitches were used. The second stitch is tucked under the felled seam and depending on how the denim shrinks it will cause interesting ridges and valleys inside the seam.

The subtle contrast color threads are very well balanced.

The hidden selvage belt loops were a bonus. There are lavishly extravagant benefits to supplying your own fabric and not caring about the wastage.

Even though I am partial to chainstitches I am particularly enamored with the waistband construction. I am still trying to get a clear understanding of it but it is beautiful.

The denim itself is a 14.75 oz American selvage with a khaki colored weft yarn. Because the denim is not singed it looks particularly hairy.

To get to know a designer through the products he creates is an experience that has become rare to find. Luckily Ande is upholding that tradition.

So what is next Ande Whall? The answer:

Jute twine embedded beltloops? Keep your fingers crossed for beautiful beltloop fades.

Ande Whall Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 23:21:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: Preparation

We checked in with Lynn Downey as she prepares for her expedition. In her pack are the essentials of any traveling historian: pen, journey book, and a photo of Levi Strauss. Bon voyage!

Downey begins her trip tomorrow. T minus 1 day. Stay tuned.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 00:42:00 +0000

The Adventures of Lynn Downey: The Isthmus

Who knew Panama had anything to do with Levi Strauss? Apparently, Levi Strauss & Co. Historian Lynn Downey did. She is about to undertake an epic journey worthy of a Jules Verne novel to recreate part of Strauss's journey to Gold Rush San Francisco via the isthmus of Panama.

In the 1840s a young Levi Strauss emigrated from Bavaria to New York. When the California Gold Rush hit the news he and his family decided to open a west coast branch of their dry goods wholesale firm. Going through Panama was the shortest route but it posed dangers ranging from yellow fever to murderous bandits. Strauss made it out alive and arrived in San Francisco in March of 1853.

Denim News will be tracking Downey's progress as she rides a historic railroad, maneuvers the Chagres River and hikes an ancient mule trail. Watch for live updates and thoughts from the Historian herself.

When asked about the timing of this trip Downey replied, "It is actually my spring vacation. I am undertaking this trek as part of the research for my next book, a biography of Levi Strauss."

The adventure begins on March 25. Stay tuned!

Levi Strauss & Co Website

Written with contributions from Lynn Downey.

Image Credit: Crossing the Isthmus, from "Mountains and Molehills" by Frank Marryat (1855). Courtesy Robert Chandler.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 21:26:00 +0000

Who is Ande Whall? Part I

When asked who Ande Whall is I usually start with He is a guy in New Zealand with some sewing machines at home (he just acquired a chainstitcher) and some awesome denim. Although that may sound like an oversimplification this usually impresses my audience of the next two minutes since he or she probably works in the industry and knows how difficult it is to put together a quality pair of jeans.

In fact one of the beauties of supporting up-and-coming designers is to see their growth through construction details. Every upgrade in sewing details is a physical manifestation of their passion and talent.

My first pair of Ande Whall jeans showed up about six months ago and the slim Grifter model was an instant success with fashion industry professionals who admired the modern fit. Others were curious about the "Ande Whall" signature I requested to be placed on the backside of the jeans near the hem. Being able to customize the jeans was supremely gratifying.

I even sent in my own fabric, which was an especially light American selvage denim. I decided on this fabric after my many visits to the beach last summer. At 11.25 oz it is the perfect hot weather weight. At the time I was also inspired by designer Thom Browne and so asked Ande to cut the inseam much shorter than I otherwise would have wanted. In this post I share the results after six months of daily wearing plus a home machine wash and dry (the jeans were originally raw).

The back pocket took a beating from holding coins at all times.

This is the first time I have experienced such interesting looking, destructed honeycombs. It is probably due to the combination of a very tight fitting jean and a lightweight denim being worn continuously.

The blue and pink selvage lines are not only appropriate for a lighthearted summer but functional too. If this material is ever bleached (eg, during industrial washing) the blue line disappears since it is not colorfast.

In the next Ande Whall post we will review some of the exciting jeans construction details Ande is working on. Stay tuned!

Ande Whall Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 01:28:00 +0000

Scott Morrison Leaves Earnest Sewn

Scott Morrison is no longer with Earnest Sewn. Morrison is one of the original founding members of the company and until now head honcho of design. He will retain his minority stake in the corporation.

There are speculations on why he is leaving his post but the official word is that the designer and management no longer share the same vision about the company's future.

I expect to see their number of doors grow in the next year or two. Nobody is certain if product quality and brand equity will be affected as a result of Morrison leaving.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:47:00 +0000

The Denim Book

Lightning's new "The Denim book" has turned out to be a mighty "Who's Who" of Japanese denim. The editors interviewed and photographed over 70 brand owners and designers and retail managers, giving them the opportunity to present their favorite denim pieces (ranging from vintage garments to the brand's sales samples).

This format of profiling brand owners and designers is a departure from previous Lightning denim-focused publications, which usually amount to little more than glossy catalogs of Japanese denim brands (many of whom are really good advertisers).

I am happy to see some familiar faces as well as learn about more obscure brands and the owners who usually do not see the limelight.

The book is available now. East-coasters can purchase from New York's Kinokuniya and West-coasters can purchase from Self Edge.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 08 Feb 2009 06:37:00 +0000

Rodeo

After Levi's and before Evis there existed a brand called Rodeo.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 08 Feb 2009 06:31:00 +0000

Best Friends Forever

Found this ad in an old Evisu magazine and thought it was worth posting.

noreply@blogger.com (Kairo) — Fri, 16 Jan 2009 20:07:00 +0000

On the trail of Indigo Artifacts...

For designers and vintage aficionados like myself, some of the most satisfying and inspirational moments come when you find a piece of clothing seemingly forgotten by time. It can hold a remarkably functional, yet entirely archaic detail. It can be made of a fabric whose quality, weave, or pattern is lost to a bygone era. Or it can be the sheer beauty of something that has aged and gathered complexity like a fine wine.

Many of us spend countless hours combing flea markets, vintage stores, and dusty warehouses to uncover those few treasures that some other hunter has missed or left behind. Inevitably, much of these treasures end up in the archives of personal collectors, vintage houses, or big apparel companies like Ralph Lauren, Levi's, and A&F as reference material for the many new items created every season. But only rarely do we know the origins of these finds or the story behind them.

In a fantastic article that came out this month, Outside magazine profiles Mr. Brit Eaton, a true hunter and tracker of that elusive and near extinct creature, the vintage American Garment. Kudos to Outside magazine for this wonderfully accurate, well researched, and thoroughly enjoyable article.

The Brotherhood of the Very Expensive Pants

noreply@blogger.com (Kairo) — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 17:33:00 +0000

Made in America - Addendum

Further to the topic of the decline of American made products, I found this interesting article from MR Magazine:

Made in America

I can recall a time when there were TV commercials urging consumers to buy products made in the USA. They featured an ever vigilant, label inspecting shopper exclaiming "you better believe it matters to me!". In these crazy economic times with our Auto industry crumbling and our country in need of jobs, is the "Made in America" brand ready for a triumphant return?

noreply@blogger.com (Kairo) — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 17:10:00 +0000

The Future of American Made Denim

Many of us in the Denim world have been watching as the options for American made denim have steadily decreased over the past few years. The steady demand for higher profit margins, lower costs, and the rapid advancements in quality from Mexico, China, and India have all contributed to the gradual migration of denim fabric and garment production away from our shores. At the end of 2008, we’re beginning to wonder, will US made denim exist for much longer? We all hope the answer will be yes, but there have been alarming signs this year that future of American denim mills is in jeopardy.

With the news that Belgian producer UCO shut down its US operation earlier this year, that left only a few key players in the American-made denim business. These include Denim North America, Mount Vernon, American Cotton Growers, and Cone Denim.

The oldest and largest of the remaining denim producers is the legendary Cone Denim, founded in 1891. In November Cone announced a series of layoffs at their famous White Oak plant, which has produced some of the best US made denim since 1905. Cone continues very successfully to expand its overseas ventures, such as their China operation and a new plant in Nicaragua. However, the market for its higher priced, US made, wide and selvage denims is now indelibly tied to the volatile Premium Denim market. It remains to be seen if demand for high quality, American made denim can sustain the operations of the White Oak plant.

Earlier this month the parent company of Cone Denim, ITG (International Textile Group), announced a further consolidation of their businesses, effectively merging Burlington Worldwide with the Cone Denim division into a single integrated business. Fiber2Fashion reported:

“We are moving to the next level in ITG’s evolution as a global provider,” said Joseph L. Gorga, president & CEO of ITG. “Our strategic initiatives over the last couple of years have focused on globally expanding our capabilities, which today span across China, Vietnam, Nicaragua, India, Europe, Mexico, and the U.S.

“Combining our apparel resources into a single business provides a simpler, more robust platform to leverage our strengths and offer customers greater support within a more flexible, cost-competitive structure.”

See the full article here

Let us hope that Cone Denim and the remaining American made denim producers can weather the current difficult economic environment and carry on the legacy of this uniquely American product.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 03:57:00 +0000

Weil Brothers & Stern to Cease Business

Today we received more troubling news when Weil Brothers & Stern announced it will exit the cotton trading business. The fact that such a concern with over a century of experience in the cotton business is forced to cease operations adds to mounting fears that rough times are ahead for cotton textiles and apparels industries.

Spokesmen for the company blame the situation on the high level of risk and unpredictability that has been introduced into the cotton market. Analysts cite inflated prices that reached a 12-year high in March 2008, fanned by commodities traders and cotton shortages (as farmers switched to profitable crops like corn), and came crashing down to a six-year low this month.

About Weil Brothers & Stern, from their website: "Together with our US affiliate, Weil Brothers-Cotton Inc. of Montgomery, Alabama, Weil Brothers & Stern Ltd. buys cotton from virtually every growing country and ships and sells to virtually every consuming country, utilising our world-wide network of offices and agents, with many of whom we have been working for several generations."

Bloomberg News

Weil Brothers & Stern Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 13:08:00 +0000

UCO to Shut Down USA Mill

Raymond UCO has announced it will discontinue operations of its North Carolina denim mill. Close to 200 people will lose jobs by Christmas.

The joint venture between Raymond of India and UCO of Belgium has been quietly looking for a suitor for some time without success. In the current cash-crunched economy any remaining potential buyer is likely be foreign and looking for a steal during a fire sale.

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 23:19:00 +0000

Heller's Cafe by Warehouse Officially Here

The Heller's Cafe x Warehouse collaboration garments are now available. If you remember from a previous blog post this highly anticipated project brings together one of the most knowledgable vintage dealers, Heller's Cafe, with one of the best most authenticity-loyal garment makers, Warehouse Company.

The gorgeous pieces are currently available from Warehouse's website.

BB pants "Rip-proof" (28,350 Yen)

"SALT CITY" Jacket (35,700 Yen)

Never "Rip-proof" coverall (34,650 Yen)

Brown Duck pants (28,350 Yen)

Warehouse Company Website

noreply@blogger.com (Henry Wong) — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 01:33:00 +0000

XX: The World's Oldest Known Pair of Levi's 501 Jeans

The Levi's archive garments are something to behold. The oldest known pair of 501's are dubbed "XX" and exude an aura that is difficult to describe. Dated to be from 1879 its denim is full of loom chatter, vertical striations of both shade and yarn character. Careful observation of areas where the indigo did not chip off (behind the buckle and inside the back pocket) reveals how rich and red the cast of the original shade must have been.

Besides the XX several other 501's were on display (1920's, 1937, 1950's). A careful enthusiast can study the differences in details among 501's from different periods. After all the event is to showcase the new Premium 501. The pair I tried on was a dark washed, whisker crunched, redline selvage jean with an updated, slim, low rise, fit. A raw version will apparently be available. Word is Barneys on Madison Avenue in New York already has them. Unlike the vintage 501's of yesteryear these modern jeans do not have workwear details like hidden back pocket rivets and back buckles. But the LVC line (Levi's Vintage Clothing) can give you that fix if it's your cup of tea. It is probably Levi's most researched, well-informed line in terms of understanding its own heritage and history.

Looking at archive pieces with Lynn Downey, Levi's in-house historian, is a unique experience one should not pass on. In fact it should be on every denimhead's list of things to do before you die.

So rare is the XX that it is stored in a safe and is guarded by a sentry when taken on the road. Here is Lynn showing off the oldest surviving pair of 501's as Evan from Meyerson Security stands guard. I was tempted to warn him about the suspicious-looking Blue Man Group peering over their shoulders.

Studying a fill yarn defect with Lynn. Is it defect or character?

Confirming it is not a mispick by looking at the underside. I was honored to have been offered the white gloves to handle this precious relic.

Levi Strauss & Co. Website

noreply@blogger.com (Kairo) — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 01:20:00 +0000

LaLa Land Dispatch:
Japanese Denim Showcase – Part II

DenimTech Laundry - Vernon, CA – Part II in my coverage of the Japanese Denim Showcase that took place September 30th - October 2nd at DenimTech. For Part I, featuring Kaihara denim, scroll down or click here.

After meeting with Kaihara, perusing their fantastic collection, and taking up way too much of Nakano-San’s time, I was ushered over to visit with the team from Nihon Menpu. This is probably my favorite textile mill on the face of the planet and I consider it a true honor to witness their creations. They are true artisans. It’s a small operation in Okayama prefecture that began in 1917 and is keeping the indigenous, handcrafted techniques and aesthetics of Japanese textiles alive. Much of their fabrics are custom designed and made for my favorite Japanese brands like Kapital, 45Rpm, and Hollywood Ranch Market. For all the Sugar Cane fans out there, 95% of the Sugar Cane fabrics are made on Nihon Menpu looms. When I visited Japan with Suzuki-San I had the pleasure of visiting this mill and seeing all their old selvage looms and machinery. Truly a privelege!

Super narrow selvage wallet (also works great as an Iphone caddy!)

Nihon Menpu had several racks overflowing with fabric headers and a table showcasing some of the latest and greatest items. Having been to the mill and visited them at the last Japanese Fabric showcase, I had seen much of their selection before. However, with such a bounty of gorgeous fabrics, each one more intensely beautiful than the next, I always feel like a kid in a candy store looking through their line. They are masters of beautiful selvage fabrics, especially when it comes to heavier weights, loose and irregular weaves, neppy surfaces, and natural dye stuffs. They also offer wide goods that are just as rich and full of character as their selvages. From the below brochure, you can see the products they are known for and continue to market:

With fabrics like these… the quality speaks for itself.

Raw Japanese goodness (not sashimi)

Gorgeous selvages, note the subtle neps

More beautiful neppiness

Green cast indigos.. looks similar to the special Kapital denim

A bit of washed down denim with subtle variance in warp yarn shades...

My pictures surely don’t do these textiles justice. If you have a chance to see them and especially if you can afford to use their fabrics in your line… definitely seek them out. A few more random snaps of more unique items....

Colored denims, Hick'ry stripe, novelties...

I think I spied this at Okura, in Daikanyama, on an indigo robe a while back...

After drooling over sample after sample of indigo artistry and lamenting that I can’t use any of their fabrics…. I bid a fond farewell and sayonara until next time.