By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

A handful of wines from the NYCR Tasting Table. As always, these mini-reviews are more or less typed directly from my tasting notebook.

Macari Vineyards 2007 Block E Cabernet Franc ($40): Made with commercially frozen cab franc. Strawberry preserves dominate the nose, with subtle spice and sweet herbs beneath. Sweet up front, but dry on the finish, with good acidity for balance. Straightforward strawberry flavors. Simple but balanced and tasty.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Paperbirch Highlands Fine Ruby Dessert Wine ($18): Blackberry and boysenberry jam on the nose. Simple, fruity. Decent balance of flavor, sugar an alcohol. Simpe jammy black fruit. Short finish. A little hollow on the palate.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Pumphouse Wines 2008 White ($12): House label of Premium Wine Group. Light nose of pears, flowers and lemon-citrus. Palate is a little watery with light pear and citrus flavors. Good, fresh acidity. Very simple. A summer gulper.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Pumphouse Wines 2007 Red ($12): Plum and smoke on the nose with a little earthy tobacco edge. Medium body with dark fruit but a little bitter on the mid-palate and the finish. Tannins are medium-intensity but bitter as well. Hard press fractions? (2 out of 5 | Average)

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2006 "Perle" Chardonnay ($29): Green tea, pear, peach and orange blossom on the nose with vanilla, oak, and hints of pine resin. Full bodied and creamy, yet lively on the palate with great acidity and length. Peach, roasted pear and faint guava on the palate with caramelized sugar, vanilla and spicy lees character. Toasty but not overwhelming.  (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 

By Tom Mansell, Science Editor

Have you ever picked up an ant and squished it between your fingers? In some cases, the ant has the last laugh, leaving your fingers with a sickly sweet, pungent odor sometimes described as "rotten coconuts." Ants secrete all kinds of different chemicals for communication, stress, antibacterial, antifungal and many other reasons.

Unfortunately, this is also true of insects in the vineyard. 

One particular insect can secrete a chemical so potent, as little as one bug per liter of juice can ruin an entire batch of wine. I'm talking about the multi-colored Asian ladybeetle, Harmonia axyridis. This little guy lives in lots of vineyards and farm fields across the country, eating aphids and doing some other beneficial pest control.

The problem is that when this beetle is under stress (e.g., being crushed in a bladder press), it releases some very potent aroma compounds, including 2-methoxy-3-isopropyl-pyrazine (IPMP, pictured right).

If you're really into wine, the word "methoxypyrazine" might look familiar. It's the name of a group of chemical compounds naturally found in grapes, particularly before véraison. Methoypyrazines are responsible for a variety of "green" or vegetal aromas in wines. IBMP (2-methoxy-3-isobutyl-pyrazine), the chief MP in unripe grapes, is responsible for a green bell pepper aroma, while IPMP smells like peas and rancid peanut butter.

Methoxypyrazines have a detection threshold in the neighborhood of 1-20 parts per trillion. This threshold is about thousands to millions of times more than many of the other wine impact odorants (with the exception of cork taint, which is similarly potent). To put this into perspective, 3-4 milligrams of IPMP would be enough to make an Olympic-sized swimming pool (~600,000 gallons) smell like peas.

While it's theoretically interesting to wine geeks like myself, finding so-called "ladybug taint" in a commercial wine is exceedingly rare, given that (1) ladybeetle infestations of the degree required to taint finished wine are somewhat rare and depend on the location of the vineyard, if there are soybeans nearby, and lots of other factors, and (2) the wine is usually revolting and unsellable.

Imagine my surprise, then, when I recently visited a winery and tasted a wine with unmistakable ladybug taint aroma. Needless to say, I immediately bought a bottle. The wine reeks of peanuts immediately after uncorking, and tastes even worse, with notes of mushy, school cafeteria peas.

I should note that this was not a New York winery, but the grapes were indeed from New York State. I don't necessarily want to mention the name of the winery because I can't prove that the IPMP is due to ladybeetles, but I can say with relative certainty that it is IPMP, and lots of it! If you want to try this wine for yourself, send me an email, though I don't believe it's for sale online. If you're around Ithaca, I still have a lot of the bottle left (for obvious reasons), so I'll gladly pour you some.

If you are trained to pick up faults in wine, sometimes you can become obsessed with them. It's important to remember that when it comes to wine, the absence of fault is not the presence of greatness. Indeed, some things that at very high concentrations can be considered faulty can be pleasurable and/or add complexity at low concentrations (Brett comes to mind, at least for some people...). Even methoxypyrazines can be desirable in some styles of wine (e.g., New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). 

That being said, I may forget some of the really good, unfaulted wines that I have had, but I will never forget this one.

Further reading:

Review of methoxypyrazines in wine from Wines & Vines, featuring work from Cornell researchers on managing MPs in the vineyard

Pickering et al., "Influence of Harmonia axyridis on the Sensory Properties of White and Red Wine", American Journal of Enology and Viticulure, 2005

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

With four editors from four different regions of the state, trying to crowbar this tasting into the holiday season has proven impossible, so the final tasting for the New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year has been rescheduled from December 30 to January 23.

That's the bad news.

The good news is that this delay opens up the possibility of including some wines from the Chautauqua - Lake Erie region and will give us an opportunity to taste even more Hudson Valley wines before choosing those finalists as well. 

The rest of the details surrounding the tasting and project remain the same.

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Originally, I had promised myself that I'd not mention what wines were the final "cuts" as I pared down all of the 2009-released wines to select my finalists for the NYCR 2009 Wines of the Year.

But in the end, this was the final cut in the red category, and I'm mentioning that fact because I really wish I could have squeezed it in. Cutting it was the hardest decision that I had to make, in fact. It's that good.

Pellegrini Vineyards 2005 Reserve ($70) is the first such "Reserve" made by winemaker Russell Hearn, a clear nod to the quality of the 2005 growing season. I hear that he made one in 2007 as well, and that's it. I respect producers like Russell who don't make their high-end wine every year if the fruit coming in doesn't warrant it.

A bold, but balanced, blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petite verdot, the nose is at once fruity with black plum, black cherry and blueberry aromas and complex with layers of black pepper, chocolate-covered coffee bean and dried herbs beneath. Some wines fill the room with their aromas the second you pour them. This is one of those wines.

With a dense core of rich, dark fruit flavor accented by more black pepper, licorice, mocha and a lively minty-eucalyptus note, this wine changed over the course of my tasting with each component stepping forward and one time or another.

The tannins are grippy and mouth filling, but not angular rigid. Instead they are ripe and rounded, offering enough structure for all that fruit and spice. Balance and length mark this wine as outstanding -- an impressive blend from one of Long Island's well-considered wineries.

After being open for 4 days it started to fade a bit, but lasting that long leads me to believe that it will age nicely.

It costs a little extra to taste it at the winery's tasting room in Cutchogue. Pay the added fee. It's well worth it.

Producer: Pellegrini Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long island
ABV: 13%
Price: $70*
Rating:  (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive )

(Ratings Guide)

The standard for choosing the Finger Lakes finalists was rather simple: If you could only send a small number of wines to someone who doesn't believe this region can make world-class wines, which wines would you choose?

Yes, more than 100 wineries now produce wine in the Finger Lakes. But this compilation isn't about spreading the love; it's about choosing that wines that might convert the non-believers.

Some might find the price of these wines to be an issue. As we've discussed before, it's important to offer wines that can compete with wines from other regions at that price point. That is happening, if a bit slowly. Do these wines offer value despite some high price points? They do. They are the exceptions and the exceptional.

Some will complain that several producers appear multiple times. These are the producers whose approaches need to be emulated more widely for this region to continue its steady course upward. 

But don't mistake how difficult this process is. The good news is that there is a strong list of producers who don't appear here that are making wines capable of swaying the doubters. I needn't list them all. 

If you haven't tracked down these wines, keep in mind that some have already sold out, and some will soon. Here are some thoughts about why these wines were chosen.

Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Argetsinger Vineyard Riesling ($25): This wine turns a stellar trick: In a vintage that has thus far featured far too many severe Finger Lakes rieslings -- wines that are a touch shrill and off-balance, dominated by acid -- this is a blazingly electric wine with balance, length, and a tremendous expression of its source. An aromatic ballistic missile, this is a standard-setting riesling for producers seeking to walk the tightrope of crackling acid and complexity. Tremendous now, the '08 Argetsinger has a very interesting history ahead of it.

Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling ($15/sold out): There are no bonus points for winning the Governor's Cup. This riesling displays the richness that comes from an excellent vineyard site and winemaker Johannes Reinhardt's careful arresting of the fermentation before it went dry. The result is a gorgeous mouthfeel, weighty but with serious cut woven in. The fennel stands out, a classic Seneca Lake hallmark for a wine that will reward patient consumers many years down the line.

Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 HJW Vineyard Riesling ($38/sold out): This is like choosing a favorite fraternal twin; this wine really needs to be tasted next to its single-vineyard sibling, the '07 Magdalena Riesling. That's because, more than any other Finger Lakes producer, Hermann J. Wiemer has successfully identified the differences that come from sites just a few miles apart. In a hot, low-acid year like 2007, this wine displays a surprising racy current that amplifies the flavors. This producer has everything clicking: ideal sites, older vines, and a thoughtful winemaker willing to take risks. As good as these single-vineyard wines are, I've tasted the '08s on their way to the bottle, and they could set new benchmarks when they're released in January.

Red Newt Cellars 2007 Curry Creek Vineyard Gewurztraminer ($42): I can still recall the moment when Dave and Deb Whiting giddily revealed their plan to bottle two separate gewurztraminers, each uniquely reflecting its origins. The Curry Creek vineyard is small and is becoming a prized site, delivering gewurztraminer with unusual depth. It helps that winemakers Dave Whiting and Brandon Seager take their gewurztraminers to the dry end of the scale; some Finger Lakes gewurzes struggle to find balance at higher sugar levels. No such problem here. A special wine in Red Newt's inaugural single-vineyard effort.

Fox Run Vineyards 2008 Reserve Riesling ($30): On its own merits, this wine shows the kind of rounded cut that self-proclaimed acid freaks will love. But it's even more impressive when you consider the long list of wines that Fox Run produces each year, and that's before their assistance to other labels. Winemakers Peter Bell and Tricia Renshaw believe deeply in Finger Lakes riesling so they make time to consider how the riesling is developing before selecting the best of the vintage for this bottling. One glass and it's no wonder why Peter Bell is always in demand with his colleagues when they need assistance.

Billsboro Winery 2008 Riesling ($16): Owner and winemaker Vinny Aliperti also makes outstanding rieslings for Atwater Estate Vineyards on the opposite end of Seneca Lake, but it's this smaller production wine that makes the list because it's such a pure representation of Finger Lakes riesling even with a higher level of residual sugar. The classic aromatics and flavors show up in abundance here, and the finish stretches it all out nicely. It's an impressive wine and a very good sign for a young winery.

Shalestone Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc ($18): When local wine lovers ask, "Where should I go that I've never been before," this producer is always at the top of the list. Some barely notice it's there, and by making only reds, owner and winemaker Rob Thomas is rather like an Irish pub owner who serves only soda. But this cabernet franc affirms his focus. Rich but not over-the-top, it delivers a wide range of flavors that will keep the consumer thinking. And if you know Rob Thomas, you know that's exactly what he wants. 

Heart & Hands Wine Company 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir ($40): There is a reason that Heart & Hands Wine Company is the hottest word-of-mouth tasting destination in the Finger Lakes, and it's not simply their popular dog or welcoming new facility. In just winemaker Tom Higgins' second vintage, this pinot is a revelation. It's evidence that most local pinot producers should rip up their vines, and the rest should follow Tom's lead when it comes to meticulous sorting, crop yields, and site selection. And if it's this good now, what can we expect when Tom's own newly planted vines -- sitting on a trove of limestone - start bearing fruit? That's the fun part of a new wine company's journey.

Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc ($19): At an industry tasting of 2007 cabernet francs this summer, this wine earned the highest marks thanks to one significant reason: mouthfeel. The texture allows the consumer to experience a rich array of flavors that highlight one of the best vintages for red wine this region has ever seen. Interestingly, the '07 Ravines cabernet franc reaches for a wide range of aromatics and flavors -- and pulls it off. Simultaneously earthy and bright, with spice and layered fruit, it features freshness as well as depth. Ravines' adherence to low yields paid serious dividends here.

Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc ($25): So you profess to be a cab franc lover? This wine is as pure a representation of Finger Lakes cabernet franc as I've seen, and that means it's unafraid, unapologetic for its varietal character. That also means it's a cab franc lover's cab franc, replete with a tangy, herbal note that courses through the long finish. The aromatic and flavor range is very wide, from a roundhouse of raspberry to tobacco, just to name a couple. Some consumers who love huge, bombastic reds will find that it pushes them too far in new directions. And that's exactly what I love about this wine. Needs time or decanting.

Keuka Spring 2007 Lemberger ($19): The dark horse of the finalists, this wine seems to surprise everyone who tastes it. That's because Lemberger - we prefer the name Blaufrankisch - has a serious future in the Finger Lakes, and winemaker Mark Wiltberger is giving this wine a thoughtful approach. Kissed with oak but not dominated by it, this Lemberger has just enough layering to make consumers stop and think about its potential. There's probably not enough structure for long-term aging, but it's a very nice wine right now. Down the lake at Heron Hill, Blaufrankisch is earning big headlines, but it's masked in way too much new oak. If that changes, the Blaufrankisch revolution might officially be underway.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars 1999 Prestige Cuvee ($30): Spend much time with the Frank family and you'll inevitably hear about their admiration for Finger Lakes sparkling wine. Willy Frank used to tell interviewers that wines from Chateau Frank could routinely beat up on French champagne. And while his bluster might not have been matched by the results - that is, after all, a huge mountain to scale -- it's easy to see why the Franks are excited. They craft delicious, approachable sparkling wines with consistency.

Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Cuvee Brut ($25): If you like your sparkling wine to show some rich, doughy character -- and I do -- then this is the Finger Lakes version most suited to your palate. Displays a balance between crisp lime and brioche. Pour this wine blind for your family and see how many say Finger Lakes. 

Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 M-RS Riesling Berry Selection ($65): Quietly, there is a revolution unfolding in the Finger Lakes, and it's led by wines like this one. In vintages that feature higher levels of botrytis, winemakers are attempting richer wines with high levels of residual sugar. I'd say this could be the standard bearer for German winemaker Johannes Reinhardt's portfolio, but his TBA-style riesling isn't even out yet, and that will almost certainly rise to even loftier heights.

Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Bunch Select Late Harvest Riesling ($85): The price tag for these sweet, balanced wines is derived from the enormous amount of labor, time, and energy required to produce them. Pain-staking hand sorting removes any hint of sour berries from the very small production of this wine. It's lush and round, and for patient consumers, these richer wines have the potential to evolve and improve for a long time.

Doing a "Wines of the Year" is something that I've wanted to do on this site for a long time, but until the past year or so, I didn't think we had the people in place to do it and do it well.

But, with Bryan and Evan on board and covering their beats so enthusiastically (with the help of people like Tom, Jason and Julia) I felt comfortable announcing the project and taking it on.

And there are still great wines that didn't make the list. I'm actually glad for that because if it were easy to pick finalists, that'd mean that there just aren't many worthy wines being made on Long Island. Clearly there are.

I think it's useful to tell you a bit about each of the wines that I chose and maybe offer some insight into why they were chosen. I don't think that anyone who drinks Long Island wine will be surprised that any of these wines have been named finalist, but each is worthy of note:

Lenz Winery 2002 Old Vines Merlot ($55): There aren't many wineries in New York (or really anywhere else) that have the ability to hold onto their high-end reds for seven years before release. Luckily, Lenz Winery and winemaker Eric Fry are able to hold wines back. This wine (released a few months ago) show mature, evolved flavors that younger wines just don't. This is a wine that I open for anyone who says Long Island wines "can't" age. It's not a finalist just because its older though, the balanced, nuanced flavors, incorporated tannins and lengthy finish make it a standout.

Lieb Family Cellars 2004 Merlot Reserve ($20): While not held as long as the Lenz, this classic Long Island merlot leans towards Bordeaux a bit and is tasting beautifully right now. It's fruit forward, but restrained, elegant and supple on the palate, with a nice mix of dark fruit, spice and herbs. This didn't factor into its placement in the finals, but the $20 price vtag makes it one of Long Island's best values.

Raphael 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30): Some people say that cabernet can't be done and done well in New York, but its wines like this that more than prove them wrong. Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich only makes a varietal cabernet in the best years (the previous time was 2001) and when he does, its always one of my favorite examples of cool-climate cabernet -- full-flavored but at the same time elegant with a complexity of flavor only a long growing season and careful handling in the cellar can bring.

Roanoke Vineyards 2005 Merlot ($45/sold out): Even though it's sold out, this wine is still a baby. I think if owner Rich Pisacano had his choice, he wouldn't even have released it yet, but give it some time to breathe and watch out. It's big and full-bodied with dark, rich, concentrated fruit with coffee and mint -- all framed by big but ripe tannins. In my review, I said that it just might be the "quintessential warm-year Long Island merlot."

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc ($38): This wine received more attention at TasteCamp 2009 than any other (or any others combined really). It blew people away and with good reason -- it is a new benchmark for Long Island cabernet franc. I've tasted it several times since then, and the complexity of flavors and richness made it one of the must-haves for this list.

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2005 Christian's Cuvee Merlot ($100): As I said in my recent review, this wine is probably best known for its price tag ($100) but this wine isn't about the price. It really captures the terroir of the Wolffer vineyards and is clearly winemaker Roman Roth's masterpiece. I don't think a tasting of top Long Island reds is complete without this one.

Channing Daughters Winery 2008 Ramato ($20): I knew that my list of white wines would have at least one or two of winemaker Chris Tracy's creations. In fact, if a few of his wines had been released in 2009 (rather than 2008) there would have been at least 3. This wine made the list because it's unique -- a skin-contact pinot grigio -- delicious and at $20 offers a tremendous entry into the orange wine style.

Channing Daughters Winery 2007 Vino Bianco ($20): This blend of 32% Tocai Friulano, 25% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Pinot Grigio, 9% Chardonnay (Dijon clone 96) and 17% Chardonnay (“Musque” clone) is a beautifully integrated, classy example of just how good white blends can be on Long Island. Ripe but fresh, each component brings something unique to the table and yet the sum is far greater than the parts. With just a kiss of new oak, this has been a favorite since its release.

Lenz Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer ($20): Year in and year out, winemaker Eric Fry makes one of my favorite Gewurztes and I was thrilled that they released this just a few weeks ago (do it would qualify for the tasting). Super-long with good balance and flavors that lean more towards tropical fruit, spice, lychee and ginger rather than a rose garden, this is right in my gewurzt wheelhouse.

Paumanok Vineyards 2008 Chenin Blanc ($28/sold out): Another wine that sells out quickly every year, this wine was the other hit at TasteCamp. This chenin has bright pear and citrus flavors, super-fresh acidity and an almost mouthfeel -- leading many to ask why no one else is growing or making chenin blanc on Long Island. This is another one that I love opening for people who are new to Long Island wines.

Raphael 2008 Naturale ($20): I'm not huge into the whole "natural wine" movement, but when a wine is made without the addition of sugar or acid, without filtration or fining, and using naturally occurring yeasts and with only the slightest bit of SO2 during bottling -- and tastes good -- I take notice. Unique, ever-evolving and delicious, I'm down to my last bottle of this. An easy choice as a 2009 favorite of mine.

Sherwood House Vineyards 2004 Blanc de Blancs ($37): Picking two sparkling wines proved much harder than I expected -- especially when I re-tasted some of the contenders. In the end, this chardonnay-only sparkler beat out several others because it's the complete package. From start to finish, it's balanced, classic and delicious.

Sparkling Pointe 2000 Brut Seduction ($50): This beautiful sparkler from Long Island's only sparkling-only producer. My review of this wine will be published soon, but this wine is stunning in its complexity, balance and length. Interestingly enough, Gilles Martin made both of the finalists in this category.

Macari Vineyards 2005 Block E Sauvignon Blanc ($55): Most people think of the Finger Lakes when they think of New York dessert wines, but I think my choices from Long Island will impress as well. And "iced" wine (meaning made with commercially frozen grapes), the intensity of fruit with balancing acidity is near-perfect on this wine, one of 4 such wines Macari made in 2005. This was my favorite.

Paumanok Vineyards 2008 Late Harvest Riesling ($40): I think if we were to taste this wine 3 years from now, it would be a revelation. It's so young, but even now it shows tremendous acidity, layered flavors that will only develop with time and a purity that I enjoy. It'll be fun taking this wine to the land of riesling for the tasting.

So there you have it, a bit about each of the Long Island finalists. Stay tuned for some notes on Evan's Finger Lakes selections and of course information about the Hudson Valley as well.

Today's review is going to be a quick one, but it's a wine that I know several of my readers enjoy -- and with good reason.

One of the better under-$20 wines made on Long Island, the Macari Vineyards NV Sette ($17) is a blend of 50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc.

Its plummy on the nose with spicy oak, tarragon and a briny, minerally streak that, depending on who you ask, has something to do with their vineyards being adjacent to the Long Island Sound.

Medium-bodied, the palate features more plum and some cherry flavors accented by brown spice, leaf tobacco, spicy oak and fresh-cut herbs. The tannins are light, making this an approachable, drink-now offering with good acidity for every-night drinking.

This edition of the non-vintage blend was released in April.

Producer: Macari Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long island
ABV: 13.5%
Price: $17*
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 

(Ratings Guide)

While there were many notable wines released this year in the Niagara region, I chose mainly vinifera selections as the regional finalists based on the fact that all these wines are major accomplishments for such young vineyards and wineries.

You can’t help but notice that my picks for the best whites of the year are chardonnay heavy. It’s not a coincidence; we are in a cool climate and chardonnay seems to ripen consistently on the Escarpment bench land as well as on the lake shore.

The editors have been asked to write a bit about each of their selections, so here are a few words on each of my finalists:

Arrowhead Spring’s 2007 Chardonnay ($18) shows that owner-winemaker Duncan Ross has a knack for the grape. Even though this particular vintage is made from Finger Lakes fruit, it still has his signature citrus and spice notes that I associate with a well-balanced oaked chardonnay.

Eveningside Winery’s 2008 Reserve Chardonnay ($18) is another oaked chardonnay that I can get behind. Randy Biehl gets a bit more body from his grapes and, like Arrowhead, he gives it just enough oak to add complexity.

Freedom Run Winery's 2008 Chardonnay ($19) (their first estate) is a naked version that makes me think that chardonnay grown on the upper bench of the Escarpment can bring complex notes of flint and chalk -- reminiscent of Chablis – but with more body and depth.

Freedom Run gets another nod for its estate-grown Freedom Run Winery 2008 Riesling ($16). Given an arrested fermentation, this well-balanced Riesling bridges the gap between the dry and off-dry style. While not as perfumed as the average Finger Lakes Riesling, it boasts a concentration that I don’t find in many other New York versions.

Leonard Oakes Winery is the newcomer in this group and winemaker Jonathan Oakes has gotten some serious fruit flavor in this unoaked Leonard Oakes 2008 Reserve Chardonnay ($17). Clean citrus and tropical aromas and a balanced mouth feel made this one stand out.

Arrowhead Spring just released this 2007 Reserve Meritage ($20) made from Finger Lakes fruit. Duncan’s reds always have a classy level of well-integrated oak. Because of its youth, this wine needed a few days to really open up for me, but when it did I was amazed at how it much complexity it showed.

Eveningside Winery’s 2007 Cabernet Franc ($22) is a testament to winemaker Randy Biehl’s patience and farming ability. He took gorgeously ripened grapes and gave them a gentle fermentation followed by an epic 28 months in used oak to produce a fruit-driven complex red with a first-class mouthfeel.

Freedom Run Winery’s 2007 Estate Cabernet ($25) is a blend of 65% cabernet franc and 35% sauvignon that is just still too young to assess its true potential. Regardless, black fruit aromas with sage and bell pepper invite you to taste its full body and graceful tannins.

Freedom Run’s 2008 Pinot Noir ($25) is a wine that will shatter any doubt that pinot noir belongs on the bench land of the Niagara Escarpment. Rich cranberry and raspberry aromas are complimented by serious pinot funk reminiscent of autumn leaves and moss. Its silky tannins and easy-drinking demeanor makes for a popular pinot noir.

Leonard Oakes Winery’s 2007 Meritage ($25) is a fine example of the fruit-driven, well-balanced style they are becoming known for. Soft tannins and red fruit flavors combine with a hint of vanilla to make for a pleasing red.

When you think of Niagara dessert wine you can’t help but talk about icewine. I chose two of the most interesting estate-grown versions in the region. First, Leonard Oakes Winery’s 2008 Vidal Ice Wine ($50) is everything you look for in ice wine. It goes beyond the focused apricot and honey flavor and includes some tangerine, mango and citrus. Sumptuous but not cloying, it keeps its sweetness in check with balanced acidity.

Schulze Vineyards & Winery’s 2008 Block Three Ice Wine ($50) is the most unique dessert wine I’ve ever had. Made from Catawba grapes frozen on the vine, this wine brings sweet-tart-like acidity to ice wine. Aromas of peach, apricot and citrus make this one vibrant and fresh.

Uncork New York was extremely well attended at City Winery yesterday afternoon.

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Yesterday afternoon, with the help of my parents (who were imported from Pittsburgh for the weekend for childcare purposes) Nena and I were able to get into Manhattan to attend Uncork New York: Sip, Savor and Shop at City Winery downtown.

We had a great time and the organizers have a lot to be proud of. The two-tiered room was packed -- packed to the point that it wasn't easy to move around at times -- and the organizers should be congratulated for putting on a great event.

Having arrived a little over an hour into the event and wanting to get back to our house before Jackson went to bed, we made our rounds, saying hello to the people there that we knew, and then focused our tasting time on wineries I'm not as familiar with -- mostly the Hudson Valley folks -- and wineries I haven't tasted before.

I also had the pleasure of meeting several people (many that I've known virtually for some time) for the first time, including Howard Goldberg, who covers Long Island for the New York Times. Howard, along with just about everyone else, was more interested in where Jackson was that actually meeting me. The kid is a star, clearly.

Of the wines I tasted -- and we actually didn't taste that many -- a few of my favorites included:

• Macari Vineyards 2009 Early Wine (Chardonnay)
• Shaw Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
• Benmarl Winery 2008 Cabernet Franc
• Hudson-Chatham Winery 2008 Baco Noir
• Paperbirch Bannerman's Castle Amber Cream

I didn't get to taste every wine and see everyone that I wanted to, but that's how these sorts of events go sometimes.

Out of order bathrooms aside, the event went off without a hitch. The only suggestions that I'd offer to the organizers and participating wineries are these:

First, do this event regularly -- every six months or so, rotating the producers a bit. My understanding is that a mass email went out inviting wineries to participate and it was a first-come, first-served sort of thing. Getting different wineries to attend the next time would be great. Clearly there is more than enough interest to support events like this one.

Second, it might be smart to cut the number of wineries by 5 or so. I think there were 35 wineries pouring and it was just a bit too crowded. At 30, I think it would have been easier to navigate.

Third, make it more obvious that the wines are for sale and easier for people to buy. I did see people buying wine, but not that much, and I can understand why: If you buy something at the first table, you're stuck carrying it around the rest of the night until you leave. There's got to be a system that can be set up where purchased wines are consolidated by the door for people.

Lastly, I'd like to see more winemakers and/or winery owners pouring at these events, it can only enhance the overall experience for attendees. Too many second- or third-string teams can dilute the message and the overall enjoyment for the people tasting.

Not every wine experience has to be mind-blowing.    Sometimes you're in a hurry and you just want a good, cheap quaff. 

My friends and I enjoyed this before heading to our department holiday party, where I knew the wine would be much worse. 

It's grapey but not overwhelmingly so, with nondescript fruit at first and a tart cranberry finish (it's tough to nail down descriptors when you're drinking from a red plastic cup.) And when it's ice cold, it's pretty refreshing. 

Red Cat is traditionally a blend of Catawba (which I just now realized is where the "Cat" in the name comes from) and Baco Noir, but the red grapes vary year to year. 

Hey, for $12 a mag, I'll bet it's better than 90% of wines from California.

For the record, the one wine I had at the party was a Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend (?) and tasted like green tea. Blech. And no, I don't drink hybrids solely to rile up certain people who post in the comments section.

From Bryan Calandrelli: Nieto Senetiner Pinot Noir 2009

Southern Hemisphere wines always seem so young until my brain processes that they are actually one vintage ahead of us, but even after I made that connection this pinot noir, it still seemed way early. A back label investigation revealed that this is a unoaked pinot and then it all made sense.

Mendoza is typically not a region I browse when looking for pinot so this was a new experience. I usually stick with Chilean pinot from Bio Bio if I'm looking for South American pinot but this one was worth trying.

Super fruity aromas of cherries and strawberries with hints of some darker forest aromas as well. Smooth mouth feel and an overall clean flavor made this extremely quaffable.

For $9 or so, a decent buy especially if you are buying wine for a large get together and need some reds to please several tastes.

From Julia Burke: Finlayson 2008 The Pepper Pot

The 2008 version of this wine is one of the finalists for Wine of the Year, but more on that wine later this week. And so it was a treat when a friend opened a bottle of the 2006.

First of all, cheers to Fox Run, where the reserve program means something. Winemakers Peter Bell and Tricia Renshaw don't simply slap a reserve label on for no reason. This is the best, most expressive bottling of their Riesling, and they don't do it every year (you won't find a 2007 version of this wine).

What we learned is that this wine is just now seeing the peak of its primary flavors. I'd expect this wine to slowly and beautifully reveal its secondary characteristics over the next five years, but I'd love to discover one of these in my cellar a decade or more down the line.

And as for the '08? The lesson is that there is a long, fritful life ahead for one of the region's top bottlings.

From Jason Feulner: Churchill's Crusted Porto

Drinking this port was like chewing a sweet fig -- it had a weight that was palpable and a slight burst of strong tea or coffee surrounded the fruit.

It finished something short of an all-star but was satisfying nonetheless.

While this Port was good, it lacked refinement and structure. I realize port is relatively low in acidity, I think this specimen could have used just a touch more. In any case, I would recommend this one since it was not extremely expensive and it had some merits as a blended, non-vintage version.

This holiday season, Wine Blogging Wednesday will be celebrating its 64th edition with a holiday theme brought to use by Jeff Stai, owner of Twisted Oak Winery and blogger over at El Bloggo Torcido.

Doing a holiday theme is a no-brainer this time of year, but anyone who knows Jeff won't be surprised to hear that he wants to do things a little differently than you might expect:

"Pick any winter holiday or observance EXCEPT Hanukkah, Christmas Day, Kwanzaa, or New Years Day or Eve, and choose a wine to celebrate it! For purposes of this WBW, the holiday date chosen must be between December 7, 2009 and January 7, 2010. You may also pair a food with your chosen holiday and wine, but that is optional.

You can pick a special observance that already has meaning to you, or with a little AbleGraping (or Googling or Binging) you should be able to discover some other fun winter holidays to celebrate!

The date? Wine Blogging Wednesday #64 is on December 23rd, 2009 - so please send me a link to your blog post by then. Have fun! - El Jefe"

So go out there and find a somewhat (or completely) obscure holiday and pair a wine with it.

This should be a fun one. Get the full details on El Jefe's blog.

In the summer, wines from Macari Vineyards often fill my glass. Sometimes it's their surprisingly expressive stainless steel chardonnay. Other times, it's their beautifully crisp, varietally spot-on sauvignon blanc. And this past year, it was their rose, which varies greatly in composition and flavor from year to year.

With vineyards that run from Sound Avenue in Mattituck all the way to Long Island Sound, it's not surprising that each of these summer-style wines capture a saltwater, saline minerality that is both refreshing and intriguing on the palate.

With the quality of the whites, sometimes it's easy to forget just how good some of Macari's red wines are, but a recent tasting served as an excellent reminder.

Co-owner Joe Macari manages the winery's vineyards following many organic, sustainable and biodynamic principals. He also has cattle on the property and keeps bees (the honey is available in the tasting room). I appreciate Joe because he employs these techniques and undertakes these projects because he believes in them, not because "natural" wine is trendy or popular. Spend any time with Joe and his passion for his land and the diversity he encourages is palpable.

We all wish we were as passionate about something in life. Trust me.

My favorite of the new table red releases (reviews coming on the others soon) is the first release of Macari Vineyards 2007 Dos Aguas ($27), named for the Long Island Sound and Great Peconic Bay, the "two waters" that surround North Fork wine country.

It's a blend of 45% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 4% malbec, and while still a baby in its development, is more approachable that you might think.

The nose opens with intense pipe tobacco and Thai basil and oregano, with black cherry and green olive beneath. Black cherry leads the way on the balanced palate with accents of tobacco, black licorice, dried herbs and more green olive.

The tannins are firm, but will integrate and soften with more bottle time. The finish lingers for 30-plus seconds and features tobacco and spice.

There are values at every price point and I think this qualifies as a terrific value at under $30.

Producer: Macari Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long island
ABV: 13.7%
Price: $27*
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious) 

(Ratings Guide)

Dan Hogue is just a tad stressed out when I call asking when I can sample his wines. “Can we do it next week?” he asks breathlessly, his cordial, down-to-earth voice as friendly as ever as he reminds me that “this week is a little… crazy.”

I can’t say I blame him. He has a brand-new winery to open, and he’s planning on participating in the Niagara Wine Trail Holiday event – which is tomorrow.

Last week, when I stopped by his property in Wilson, NY, which overlooks Lake Ontario, I chatted with Hogue in his temporary tasting room. Floorboards were exposed, nothing was finished, and the space was nowhere near ready – but Hogue was optimistic, and if his work over the last few years on what will become Victorianbourg Estate Winery is any indication, he’s well-suited to daunting tasks.

The “temporary tasting room” he’s scrambling to finish pales in comparison to the staggering mansion behind it that will soon house Victorianbourg’s tasting room and reception area. Hogue built it while managing his fledgling ten-acre vineyard, making wine and maintaining the nursery business that he took over when he purchased the property. “The building was designed and intended to be a focal point for the winery,” Hogue says.

There’s no question the mansion, and the massive lakefront property surrounding it, will ensure Victorianbourg’s status as a showcase winery in the region.

Hogue’s background is unique to the wine trail community: he was originally a cattle farmer in Kansas. But, starting a winery was a lifelong dream. He’s been honing his skills as an amateur winemaker for over 30 years. I

So, in 2005 Hogue and his wife decided to make their dream a reality. “We were originally looking at the Finger Lakes, and happened to read an article that identified Niagara USA as the area with the biggest potential for growing vinifera wine grapes. I had never been to Niagara County, so I said, ‘let’s drive up and check it out!’ We bought the nursery here and started planting grapes with the plan of opening a winery – which we’re finally going to do next week!” It’s an even more impressive accomplishment considering that the Hogues did everything themselves, from designing and building the house to grafting the rootstock to making the wine.

A farmer first and foremost, Hogue has an obvious passion for viticulture as he discusses his plantings and soil types. “My first love is the vineyard,” says Hogue. “If it got to the point where I could choose between running the winery and running the vineyard, my inclination would be to hire a winemaker and solely focus on the vineyard.” Dominic Carisetti, who works with several wineries in Niagara, currently acts as consulting winemaker, helping Hogue with the transition from home winemaking to a large-scale production. 

Hogue’s vineyard consists of ten acres of no-nonsense grapes. “Riesling, pinot noir, pinot grigio, and chardonnay are primarily what we have planted, totaling eight acres,” he says. “We also have merlot, cabernet franc, and experimental plantings of chambourcin, seyval blanc, pinot blanc, and gruner veltliner.”

The single largest planting is pinot noir. “I planted what I like to drink!” Hogue grins. “We were looking for varieties that would do well in colder climates. Whether red grapes will ripen well enough here, time will tell.” The 50-acre property has moderately well-drained sandy clay soil and a close proximity to the lake, which will offer frost protection. Now in their fifth year, Hogue’s oldest vines are producing fruit, and he plans to release three estate wines for the wine trail event tomorrow, including a dry riesling and a merlot-based rosé.

They’ll be greeted with plenty of excitement – after all, Victorianbourg’s opening is long-awaited and much hyped within the Niagara community. The winery has been listed in the Niagara Wine Trail brochure and on the Niagara County map for several months. Eager visitors hoping to taste Victorianbourg wine and tour the house have been pulling into the driveway all season; lucky tasters who caught Hogue at the right moment have been able to taste his wines, but for the most part the inner workings of the new winery have been as mysterious and enticing as Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory.

All this anticipation – and Hogue’s tireless efforts – will be rewarded tomorrow when hundreds of tasters will have the opportunity to experience Niagara’s newest winery. 

Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, NY has established itself as one of the premier Belgian-style beer companies in America. Its ales are enjoyed across the country, and one of my favorite beers from Ommergang is their Belgian-style Amber ale, Rare Vos.   

Rare Vos poured a clear honey color with a thumb-width, frothy white head. The nose is interesting with fruity esters that result in a candy-like aroma, with yeast and spices mixed in.

The body is smooth with lots of malt and some sugar with more spices, orange notes, and light hops underneath. The finish is not to long or overwhelming but has a nice dryness that does a good job of balancing out the big front.

The beer has a nice effervescence and leaves some hanging lace on the glass.  

Overall, this is a really nice amber ale. The malts and sugar up front outweigh the hops, which might offend hop fans but I love the rich, deep body of this beer. The spices, malt and fruit make this my ideal Spring/Fall beer. Another gem from Ommegang.

Rare Vos will pair well with lots of different foods. In a past beer dinner I paired this amber ale with a chicken sausage and mushroom ragout which turned out to be one of the best dishes all night.   

Producer: Brewery Ommegang
ABV: 6.5%
Price: $3.00 (12 oz. Bottle)
Rating: (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

I was a man on a mission.

On the morning of Friday, November 13 I left my driveway in Syracuse, New York at 7:30 a.m. and headed west. My goal? To find a bottle of wine vinted before I was born.

This adventure was not so much the product of a whim as procrastination. The 13th of November was my wife's and my 5-year wedding anniversary, and I had decided a few days prior that this yet-to-be-discovered bottle of wine was to be the special treat.

For each anniversary, Kathleen and I do something we've never done before, albeit something cute and simple. On our first anniversary we stayed in a bed and breakfast. For our second we took a cooking class.

The old wine idea had been on a list of possibilities for some time. Kathleen was born in 1981, I in 1980, so a bottle from 1979 or a prior year was in order. The oldest wine I had ever consumed was a 1985 Dr. Frank's riesling.

The challenge: Find a 30-year-old bottle of wine for less than $150.

I had called every Syracuse wine shop with no luck. The Syracuse region is devoid of wine establishments with old collections for sale. I reached out to Evan, the New York Cork Report's purveyor of crazy old wines, and he suggested that I hit up Century Pittsford Wines in Rochester. I called ahead and they assured me that they would have something in stock.

On the morning in question, I burst through the door of Century at 9:07 a.m., seven minutes after they opened, and inquired about their selection of 30-year-old or older wines in my price range. Despite what had to be the unexpected nature of this odd request at such an early hour, Century's wine expert on duty brought me back to the climate-controlled room. He thought there might be at least a wine or two that would match my query.

We found nearly 15 specimens of Bordeaux and Burgundy that were 30 years or older and priced around $150. The selection of older wines at Century is exemplary and I could not recommend the store or its courteous staff enough for those looking for a superior wine shopping experience.

On the advice of the knowledgeable wine expert I settled on a bottle of Burgundy, a 1978 Remoissenet Père et Fils Volnay-Clos des Chênes. The bottle came to $145 with tax. I walked out of the store, stashed the wine in the car, and drove east so I could get to work in Syracuse before noon.

I unveiled the Volnay-Clos des Chênes that evening and it was a delight. The nose of ash and earth brought forth layered flavors of dark cherry, cocoa, tobacco, and dried chili peppers with a brilliant mouthfeel and a long, long finish. I can say without qualification that this Burgundy was one of the best wines I have ever consumed. Kathleen felt very much the same way about this incredible wine.

I cannot afford to drink like this very often, but in this case it was more than worth it. I've been a very lucky man for five years running, and I am grateful that I have a wife who is excited to share these simple pleasures that make life together so much fun. 

So, here's a toast to love and wine, a pairing that stands above all others.

The editors have chosen our finalists for the wines of the year, but we all have different palates and preferences -- and now we want to hear from you. It's time for our first-ever "New York Cork Report Readers' Choice Awards."

In the comments of this post, nominate at least one New York wine as your choice for Wine of the Year. The rules are simple: The wine has to have been released in 2009. That's it. And if you aren't sure, nominate it anyway and we'll double-check the release date.

We're looking for nominations for wines from across the state, in each region, and we're leaving it up to you to decide which wines should be considered. You can even nominate a Leon Millot, a Vignoles, a riesling or a Frontenac -- there are no restrictions!

We'll leave the nominating open until December 15 at midnight. Then we'll tally the nominations and choose finalists.

From the 16th through the end of this month, we'll have polls set up for each reason to pick winners.

We'll announce the Reader's Choice winners around the same time that we announce the New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year as determined by the editors. 

So think back on this year... Which New York wines inspired you? Which New York wines were memorable? Which should be nominated for Reader's Choice Wine of the Year?

Matt Spaccarelli is new to the wine business, but has immersed himself in every aspect of Benmarl Winery's operations, now serving as the general manager and co-winemaker with Kristop Brown. Born just across the river in Hopewell Junction, Matt attended Fordham University where he was "completely convinced that track & field was my true major." He still holds the school record in the decathlon.

He was still at Fordham when his parents bought Benmarl in 2006, but he worked there part time until he graduated in 2007 with a BA in political science with a concentration in public policy. Upon graduation, he joined the new family business full time as general manager and assistant winemaker. Since then he's moved up to co-winemaker with Kristop.

This year he added president of the Shawangunk Wine Trail to his resume. All by the age of 26.

And now, onto our standard questions:

What (and where) was the first wine you remember drinking? Growing up I remember sipping wine out of my grandpa’s glass. He would always have a jug of something red under the table and I would sit on his knee as he smoked his filterless Lucky Strikes. As for the first wine that I remember having a glass (more like a paper cup) of was a Portuguese red called Borba. Again, it was with my grandfather.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
Besides my family becoming involved with Benmarl, I don’t think that there was a single event or bottle that made me fall in love with the wine industry. I think it was more of a series of events starting with my upbringing, making wine in the garage.

After that, it was my introduction to agriculture (especially local agriculture) by my brother Stephen, followed by my study of public policy at Fordham University. It is a combination of these and many other events (and wonderful bottles of wine) that have pushed and pulled me into not only winemaking, but the culture, politics and lifestyle that surround it.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
We just bottled our 2008 Hudson River Region Cabernet Franc and it seems to be very promising. We decided to bottle this wine unfined and unfiltered and it has pushed it into a direction that I would like to see all of our wines go, more terroir driven. As our vineyards mature and as we get more vines in the ground, I hope to grow more wines that reflect not only who we are, but where we are from as well.

I think that this wine is our first step in that direction.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Hudson Valley wine community?
I would have to say that it is the “community” of the Hudson Valley Wine Industry that has surprised me the most. We are realizing more and more that without regional attention we have little opportunity to gain recognition for the quality wines that are being made here. Because of that, we work together in grass roots efforts to push each other forward. It’s less of a competition then it is a group effort. It is everyone’s awareness of our potential and willingness to cooperate that has been most surprising.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I would say that it is a 50/50 split between wine and beer, with an occasional gin and tonic on a hot day or rye whiskey when its cold out. There is not a style of wine or beer that I truly dislike. Perhaps it’s the winemaker in me that finds something interesting about them all. However, I do tire quickly of “fruit bomb” and high alcohol new world wines, hopped up IPA’s or Russian Imperial Stouts. Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoy them from time to time, but I guess it’s a balanced beverage that most often fills my glass.

Is there a 'classic' wine style or beer and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Foie gras. The flavor is just not that interesting to me. Combine that with the practice of farming foie gras and it is not enjoyable. I am by all means an omnivore. I consume farm-raised meat as well as self-harvested wild game, but for me foie gras crosses the line of excessive.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
No matter how good the food, how fine the wine, or how beautiful the setting is, the company you keep is paramount. Without good company it is difficult to enjoy anything.

Secondly, it is the process that can also make the wine drinking experience enjoyable. A fine meal and wine paring at a restaurant is wonderful, however I prefer cooking at home using ingredients from the garden and meat harvested on the estate. The more you are invested into the experience, whether it be harvesting the food your self or know the farmer that raised it for you, crafting the wine in your own cellar or understanding the philosophy behind the wine you choose to drink, the greater the enjoyment.

$100 for a merlot...from Long Island?

Yes. Wolffer Estate Vineyards' Premier Cru (the former name for this wine) is perhaps known as much, or more, for it's price tag than it's quality. But, the wine sells -- in part because of the wineries Hamptons locale, but also because it happens to be very good.

And unlike some of Long Island's other high-priced "reserve" wines it is only made when winemaker Roman Roth thinks the fruit coming into the winery warrants it. I can respect that.

2005 was one of those years, even though what was a hot, dry growing season turned extremely soggy in early October. Wolffer waited until the rains had passed and the grapes had recovered to harvest the blocks that go into this wine, with impressive results.

Wolffer Estate 2005 Christian's Cuvee Merlot ($100), renamed to honor founder Christian Wolffer who passed away nearly a year ago, is made of 83% merlot from Wolffer's oldest merlot vines (planted in 1990, 1.6 tons/acre), 14.5% cabernet sauvignon from Roanoke Vineyards (planted in 2000, 1.3 tons/acre) and 2.5% cabernet franc (planted in 2000, 1.7 tons/acre) and it's made for the long haul.

The nose bursts with crushed blackberry and blueberry aromas with subtle dried plum character, toasty oak, vanilla, dark-roast coffee and star anise.

Medium-full bodied, this classic Hamptons merlot remains elegant and is well structured, with ripe, but firm tannins that provide the structure ripe blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and plum flavors with more anise spice, cedar, coffee, and toasty vanilla. The lengthy finish is marked by a minerally graphite note that I particularly enjoyed. 

Is it worth $100? I can't answer that for you. I don't know what your bank account looks like, but every lover of Long Island merlot should try this wine at least once.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Brix at harvest: 22.6 brix (avg.)
pH: 3.55
TA: 5.6 g/l
Oak: 21 months, 100% new French
ABV: 13%
Price: $100*
Rating:  (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive )

(Ratings Guide)