lagal[og] - Philippines Travel & Photography Blog

Racing on the well-beaten path: An interview with an off-roader

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 00:45:00 +0000

Getting down and dirty on the Clark Speedway dirt tracks

"Whatever the road smells of, that's how you'll smell. If a carabao used that mudhole you crossed to bathe himself, you'll smell exactly like that carabao."

Off-roader Jojo Javier offers this pragmatic advice to wannabe off-road racers who think the sport is all about fun and glam. Wearing my writer's hat for InFlight Magazine, part of my assignment was interviewing a curious mix of people from Clark, Pampanga who have adventure as their calling card. From drifting with lateral driving champion, Audel Sison, I met up with Jojo Javier on the tracks of Clark Speedway, deemed among the toughest in the country.

Curiously, Jojo's background isn't in motorsports but scuba diving, skydiving and practical shooting. He wanted a diversion that would take him outdoors so he bought his first 4x4 many years ago. But it would take a couple of years before the competitive bug bit. He recalls his first race, "muntik na akong umurong nang nakita ko yung race track kasi yung table top is around 15 feet" (I almost pulled out of the race when I saw the race track because the table top obstacle is 15 feet high). In a sport where guts seem to be the high-octane fuel that propel drivers to brave the races, does anything ever faze him? "Recently dun sa national dumptruck challenge, meron talagang tumataob nang paharap" (In the recent national dumptruck challenge, there were vehicles that overturn on their front end which is scary).

Jojo on top of his Suzuki Samurai

So what would any off-roader pray for before any race? He says "I was hoping na mabunot ko yung bandang una pero nung mag-i-istart pa lang kami, walang gustong mauna" (I was hoping to get drawn among the first racers but when the race was about to start, nobody wanted to be first). The apprehension is understandable since the track is freshly backhoe'd, the obstacles angled sharply like walls. The common cause of grief is what they term as the "wall of death" where going down almost 90 degrees is more treacherous than climbing up. Racing towards the end of the pack is no less hazardous. "Nung championship, second to the last ako, 19th runner, 7 o'clock in the evening. Umuulan, wala halos ilaw apart dun sa headlamps ko and a few flood lights. Hindi ko masiyado nakikita ang race track tapos madulas... dahil lamog na yung track." (During the championships, I was second to the last, the 19th runner, at 7 in the evening. I can hardly see the race track which is slippery... since it is already well-beaten). Jojo finished 5th in a field of 20.

While off-road racing is timed, it is also a race where experience, technical knowledge, familiarity with one's vehicle and cool-headedness come into play. "Kung alam mo na tama ang takbo and wala kang error, definitely mabilis ang time mo." (If you know your run is okay and you're not committing errors, your time will definitely be faster). He's not above being prudent and keeping his vehicle intact either, "I-pre-preserve ko yung sasakyan ko dahil maraming series of races yan" (I will preserve my vehicle because it's a long series of races, not just one).

Winching it above a well-beaten wall

Now a veteran of numerous off-road races, what goes in his head while behind the wheel? "When you're racing, wala kang ibang naririnig. Parang kabayo na may blinders. Nakikita mo lang yung dalawa mong crew, wala ka nang ibang focus, race na lang." (When you're racing, you can't hear anything much. You're like a horse with blinders. All you can see is your two crewmembers. All you can focus on is the race.) Spoken like a true off-road warrior.

Attributions: This post is derived from an interview conducted for a writing assignment for InFlight Magazine. All photos are my own. A separate article I authored entitled "Clark for Thrill-seekers" appeared in InFlight Magazine's January 2012 issue. Many thanks to InFlight Magazine and Audel Sison for making this interview and post possible. • InFlight Magazine is available onboard Seair flights and at selected retail outlets. • Jojo Javier is a past president of the Pampanga Off-Roaders. You can reach him via mobile number 0917.8877713 or email jojojvr@yahoo.com.

Lagalog celebrates 8

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:51:00 +0000

Balloon man along Ongpin on Chinese New Year 2012

If you asked me way back in 2004 what I would be doing in 2012, I really wouldn't have any clue. I wouldn't even know if I would still be writing, shooting and chronicling my travels online which in retrospect, is really a time-consuming endeavor. But thank God because here I am, still blogging and plugging away, even through career changes and mixed fortunes. Oh, every year is different and every year is no easier than the last one. Finding inspiration to keep on going doesn't get any easier but thankfully, the process can be cathartic, nay even reinvigorating to one's spirits. Yeah, there were times when I thought of just quitting but miraculously, circumstances just present themselves that allow me to go on. Besides, I enjoy sharing the insights and experiences, hoping that they will be of help to somebody else, taking comfort in the fact that this may be my little contribution to the world at large.

As I walked through Manila's Chinatown with friends celebrating with our Chinese and Chinoy brethren, allow me to take this opportunity to celebrate eight years of Lagalog.com and thank God, my family, all my friends, my travel buddies, all my readers and all who have, in one way or another, been a part of this site. God bless you all more than you can ever imagine.

Skidding up and down the speedway and Drifting to Jesus with Dr. Drift

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 23:00:00 +0000

Dr. Drift burns rubber on the Clark Speedway

The bumper of his borrowed car had this sticker that read "Drift to Jesus." Strange that in a sport seemingly propelled by the need for breakneck speed and wayward egos, one driver found his mission to proselytize.

Wearing my writer's hat on assignment for InFlight magazine gave me a chance to get out of my usual comfort zone of visiting/documenting travel sites and a rare opportunity to ride with Audel Sison aka Dr. Drift, the 2011 Philippine Pro-Am Lateral Drifting champion. Part of the assignment was to actually drift with Audel and for someone whose driving speed max out in the 130s-140s, the experience was, pardon the cliche, a pure adrenaline rush. I rode with Audel to the far side of the Clark Speedway when he offered to drift with me right there on the uphill loop while waiting for our photo team to arrive. Wow, no time to get my head together but it was an offer too good to pass up.

Driving back with Audel to the starting line

He quickly got into 130 and initiated the first sideslip. Frankly, I didn't have time to get scared out of my wits or even time to think of anything much. I had no seatbelts on but that hardly mattered as I seem to have melded into the bucket seat. Time seemed to have slowed down and only Dr. Drift was moving in real time, looking serene nimbly steering while the tires squeal and burn, piercing the silence of the sunny afternoon.

"Drifting is like poetry in motion... it's controlling the uncontrollable."

A Dr. Drift quotable quote

I didn't expect Dr. Drift to be as adroit with words as he is with the steering wheel but Audel doesn't fit the brash, egoistic race driver stereotype. The original plan was to get his insights on drifting as a thrillseeker's sport. But the more I probed, the more interested I got in the backstory, in the person behind the persona.

Riding into the blazing sun

At 42, Audel isn't an overnight success. Far from it. He was into BMX, dirtbike, motocross, rallye and drag racing in his younger days. He copped second place in the first-ever drifting competition in the Philippines way back in 2006, riding a borrowed bone-stock Toyota Corolla. But after that, his racing career and life went into a tailspin. In 2006, he had an encounter with God. In 2007, he disappeared from the scene. In 2008, he got back riding on borrowed cars. In 2009, he rode against the pros -- something he called akin to "using a dagger against a sword." In 2010, he got sponsored by Fern-C riding their Mercedes Benz. He racked up second and third places here and there but never first. He thought, "it looks like God is trying to make sure I can handle winning. Before that (encounter with God), pag andun ako, gusto kong manalo because it's a bragging right. (When I was racing before, I want to win to gain bragging rights) Now, after winning, what do you do? Sabi ko (I said) I'll impart it."

It's not the first time I've heard of passion that runs so deep, it turns into a life-changing spiritual experience but hearing it firsthand from Dr. Drift makes it so affecting and so believable.

Smoking the track on an otherwise lazy afternoon

Audel credits the spiritual transformation for his calm and composure (and success) on the track. "If you're not ready for the adrenaline rush, it will take over. You should ride your adrenaline. You should be in control of it," he advises. "Yan ang sabi sakin ng mga judges in 2006 and 2008, ang galing mo Mr. Sison pero pag nanggigil ka, wala na... (that's what the judges told me in 2006 and 2008, 'you're good but when you get high on adrenaline, you falter)".

"Now, when I'm at the starting line, the challenge is how well

I can contain my adrenaline."

Another Dr. Drift quotable quote

Wise words to heed for aspiring drifters. It's something he imparts to his own students. Another Yoda-like nugget: "It should come to a point in your maturity as a driver (when) you and the car become one. Every movement, every nudge, alam mo kung saan pupunta, ano ang kailangang dagdagan-bawasan (you know where the car is going, what you need to adjust whether to increase or decrease)".

One thing I've discovered that surprised me is how safe the sport is. And I thought that the "Drift to Jesus" bumper sticker is really double-entendre to also mean "this sports gets you so close to the edge you'd likely call on our Creator." "Naka-case and naka-wrapped ka, (you're encased and wrapped all around). The car is really rigid in case of collision. And may 4-point seatbelts." But his most reassuring words? "When you ride with the pros, they know what they're doing." Seeing firsthand how he calm and collected he was while drifting, I believe him.

Recommended link: I've asked Audel to describe drifting in his own words but I guess nothing beats seeing him in action to get a feel of the action. Watch him here.

Author's Note and Attributions: This post is derived from an interview for a writing assignment for InFlight Magazine. All photos are my own. A separate article I authored entitled "Clark for Thrill-seekers" appeared in InFlight Magazine's January 2012 issue. Many thanks to InFlight Magazine and Dr. Drift's team especially Jay Ribu for making this interview and post possible. • InFlight Magazine is available onboard Seair flights and at selected retail outlets. • For inquiries on drifting classes, email Audel at autocraft_drift_team@yahoo.com or call 0927-6018133/0922-4254900 or visit Autocraft Drift on Facebook.

Backpack Photography Batanes 3-Island Hop: An Invite to see and experience Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat in one trip

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 22:41:00 +0000

Even the rear-view mirror scene is breathtaking

The first time I ventured to Batanes, I didn't expect I would come back again and again. Early on in my wanderings, I set an ambitious (read: maybe unrealistic) goal of visiting all 7,107 islands (or whichever is large enough to set foot on, anyway) of the Philippines. I also didn't account for the fact that there are some places which I would return to time and again maybe because I fell for the place's charm, its people, or both. Personally, Batanes falls under the category of charming place and charming people.

But it would take many trips for me to explore the places of this northernmost island group of the Philippines, like many layers revealing themselves slowly. Part of it is due to circumstance and the fickle weather -- I've been privileged to visit Batanes at the height of summer when it is sweltering hot but the trade-off is that the skies are blue, the air clear, the vistas postcard pretty. I've seen a stormy Batanes when the wind howls through the trees and the surf thunders home to shore with increasing height and intensity. I've also been there during what they call the 'Batanes winter' when the cold winds from China blow thru the islands and it gets really chilly especially during the evenings.

A view of Nakabuang Beach from a hill

Circling Batan. On my first visit way back, I covered most of the places in Batan either on foot or a tricycle. I vividly remember how our tricycle can hardly climb the steep interior road leading to the Mahatao lighthouse, with I having to walk most of the way lest the whole thing slide all the way downhill. Circling Batan through the coastal ring road, the wind blew relentlessly on our small vehicle even as each bend reveal jaw-dropping sceneries. I walked through what they call 'Marlboro country,' 'sunrised' in Chanarian and 'sunsetted' at the view deck, chased goats on Imnajbu, posed with cows on Viang as well as explored charming churches from Ivana to Uyugan.

Crossing to Sabtang. Sabtang Island is just a 45-minute boat ride from Ivana port on Batan. But it would take a third visit for me to set foot there as the fickle weather on my second visit made me heed the wisdom of the local fishermen not to go out to sea. The spread of the island is visible from Basco and for sometime, my mind wondered what lies over there. My personal impression of Sabtang is a simpler but no less beautiful version of Batan, with less people and more rolling terrain and dramatic seascapes. The stone houses of Savidug are a throwback to simpler times. The beach at Nakabuang is raw, inviting and beautiful.

Itbayat Sta. Maria Church

Itbayat Calling. Itbayat is another story altogether. This northernmost inhabited island is some 4-5 hours boat ride from Batan and for years, I've always wondered what this huge corral of an island looks like and also speculated how to endure the trip after hearing stories of how the temperamental sea can wreak havoc on the strongest of stomachs. Through a twist of fate, I was able to finally step on this island on my fourth visit to Batanes. In my mind, I can still see the wonderful spread of green hemmed by a rugged coastline and framed by a deep blue sea and light blue sky. In Raele, there were vernacular houses made with grass, enduring abodes that preceded the iconic stone houses which were inspired by the Spaniards. Come evening, the power goes off at midnight as a wonderful silence settles on the landscape, the blanket of darkness disrupted only by the stars. Tucked under a mosquitero (mosquito net), you may just yet meet the sandman while counting fireflies in the dark. The vibe is even more laidback than in Sabtang and even lacking the usual creature comforts, I felt right at home there.

Come island-hop with Backpack Photography. While I experienced Batanes in what seems to be installments, we at Backpack Photography want our participants to be able to see all three islands in one-go. Combining our love for exploring with capturing a sense of place, we invite you to see, experience and shoot Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat this April 2-8. The itinerary is for photographers and enthusiasts who will be willing to trade a few hours of sleep for a chance to bring home keepers from Batanes. To register or for more details, please visit this link or email backpackphoto@gmail.com • See our previous Batanes workshop here.

Books in the time of Kindle

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:38:00 +0000

Pardon the phrasing of the title patterned after my favorite Gabriel Garcia Marquez book. But first, my disclaimers. I'm not scholarly, just a book lover from my youth. Secondly, I'm not technology-averse or gadget-challenged (in fact, I'm excited about the new Kindle), just a person deeply in love with physical books. And thirdly, I keep hundreds of books and magazines, 95% of which were procured from Booksale and other second-hand bookstores. You can say I'm a huge Booksale fan so much so that I can spend the whole afternoon there and that I inevitably visit the Booksale outlet in every place I visit that has them.

With the proliferation of e-books and e-book readers like Kindle and the iPad, I've noticed the alarming shrinking of National Bookstore outlets (my second favorite book place), even Powerbooks. I wonder if Booksale and other pre-owned books stores will suffer the same fate. I really hope not.

Oh, pre-owned books are of of life's simplest pleasures. Browsing one, I wonder how many miles it traveled to get into my hands; how many lives it touched; how many times it changed hands; how it brought a new understanding to people who've come to possess it, albeit temporarily. I also am inclined to thinking why the person who previously owned it, never felt the compulsion to keep it although I guess that's what books are supposed to be for -- for sharing and enriching so many other minds.

As I read my new pre-owned book "Three Cups of Tea" by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin, on the heels of my first book read for 2012, Yan Martel's "The Facts Behind the Helsinki Roccatios" (both acquired at princely sums of P115 or just $2.67 each), I ponder on Booksale's future. As I take stock of the many books I have on my shelves (and in the recesses of my brain) -- by Paul Theroux, Michael Crichton, Jon Krakauer, C.S. Lewis, Anne Tyler, Amy Tan, Tom Clancy, just to name a few of my favorite authors -- I thank God for Booksale. I may await the arrival of the new feature-rich Kindle and be amazed by news that there is already a second-hand e-book trading store online but I think, I pray, I hope, I'll never outgrow my love for physical books.

Blessings, favor and good wishes for 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 08:48:00 +0000

Revelry along Ayala and Makati Avenue on New Year's Eve

It's already 2012 but we still look towards the heavens in amazement, in hope, in gratefulness, in prayerful thanks, and for divine inspiration. We thank God for the year that was even if there were things that didn't happen the way we thought they would. The changing of the year is more than a passing of time but also a transition -- a change from hope to greater hope that inspite of all the naysayers, the heavens will bring more blessings and favor for the year to come. So let me begin this brand-new year with a greeting of a more favor-filled, more blessings-filled year to all and this quote from Jeremiah 29:11, "For I know the plans I have for you," says the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future."

Lagalog Postcards from 2011

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 25 Dec 2011 16:01:00 +0000

Dramatic Borobodur before dawn

Traveling is not just about moving from one place to another but also about moving from one moment to the next. It can be about a change in one's comfort zone or on a more dramatic scale, a change in a place I've visited before. Change can be good or bad, depending on the situation but I guess that's one thing that's constant, and one thing that makes traveling dynamic and well, ever-changing. At a time when it seems most places have been discovered and there's little to surprise us that's not been written or noted in some guidebook or blog, the aspect of travel that appeals most to me now is how each place and experience have enriched my mind and spirit. It's also amazing how from year-to-year, nothing seems to be the same.

Going to Birdland. Lagalog's trip journal this 2011 started in the wetlands of Candaba in Pampanga. Two years since last visiting it, I was surprised by the diminishing bird sanctuary, the open waterways and vegetation now replaced by rice fields. While I don't think Mayor Pelayo's place will further shrink in size, I dread to see what will happen next when the wetlands get crowded.

Candaba scene

Temple-hopping from Yogyakarta to Surakarta. My first long break for 2010 had to wait until January 2011. It was worth the wait as aside from passing through relatively uncrowded airports, it was fascinating to see Borobodur after sunset and before sunrise, marvel at Prambanan under the rain, watch Ramayana performances in Jogja, and admire the architecture of temples and structures in Solo.

Following the compass northwards to Ilocandia. It's always a pleasure to revisit Ilocos, even if it's for a photo assignment and I can't stray from the fixed itinerary. And I haven't exhausted the sights either as I've managed to do new things during my latest visit. Aside from stepping onto the dramatic rock formation of Kapurpurawan, I was able to visit the Paayas dragonfruit plantations, sink my feet into the Paoay sand dunes, hike to Kabigan Falls and venture farther beyond Saud beach into the blue lagoon of Maira-Ira.

Beautiful Nagsasa inland lake

Roughing it out in Nagsasa. The big earthquake and tsunami struck Japan in March, threatening the country's eastern seaboard. But that didn't stop us from spending overnight in Nagsasa in Zambales. Many campers canceled at the last minute, which left the cove uncrowded and relatively peaceful. The cove is breathtakingly beautiful, reminding me of Anawangin when it was still unspoiled but regular kaingin-like practices (slash and burn) and plans to build resort structures threaten the raw beauty of this place.

Chasing waterfalls in Claveria

Going north by northwest. Towards the Holy Week, we headed farther north to Claveria up in the Cagayan Region. It's not everyday that you find yourself in a town where you're just about the only tourist and where the start of the fishing season means you are welcomed with a feast. Everyday yielded new sights to see from beautiful falls to majestic coves. It was tempting to extend our stay and I just know we will have to come back soon. Afterwards, we took the opportunity to ride the Florida sleeper bus headed for Tuguegarao to revisit Callao and explore Sierra Cave.

Batad green field

Finding our way back to Batad and Bangaan.

Not even a year after last trekking Batad, I went back with our Backpack Photography participants. It's always a pleasure to share our passion for nature and landscapes, even if the hike to Batad and Tappia is never an easy one. A trip to picturesque Bangaan completed the experience, nevermind the tubes of Bengay and doses of painkillers necessary to momentarily quell the pain of creaking knees and achy legs.

Return to Corregidor. It's been years since my last visit and our ocular trip took us to places I haven't gone to in my four previous trips like spending sunset at Tailside and seeing Battery Wheeler in the middle of encroaching vegetation. I've always said it and I'll say it again -- spend overnight at Corregidor to maximize your enjoyment, nevermind the ghost stories.

Misty Adams morning

Finding Adams. Mid-year, I was able to satisfy my curiosity for this small municipality hidden further inland way from the Pagudpud coast, up the mountains. Adams is the quintessential farming town where falls are plentiful and serenity a priceless attraction. If you love nature and put a premium on peace and quiet, making the extra effort to get to Adams is worth it.

Exploring Sagada anew. Sagada has always been my escape place. Now finding new attractions to explore here was on top of my list this time around. Finding Pongas Falls was providential, never mind the dishonesty of our guides. Ditto with getting lost and finding friendly cows in the fog on the way to Lake Danum and enjoying the canine company at Rock Inn, two kilometers away from the town proper.

Magical Tinuy-an Falls in Bislig

Drifting south to Bislig. Having gotten promo fare tickets (something I consider a rarity nowadays with the difficulty of bucket-pricing bookings of Cebu Pacific) to Surigao early in the year, we ventured to this easternmost city of the Philippines where the country's widest falls, Tinuy-an, can be found. It was well worth the wait and the lengthy land travel. We came at the height of a big convention but our fortunes held. By stroke of luck/serendipity, we also got to explore Hagonoy, a private island off Bislig and if only for a day, experience the quintessential islander life, thanks to a most kind hostess and a series of fortunate events.

KL's Petronas Towers at night

Flying off to Kuala Lumpur. By a strange twist of fate, I got an invite to visit Malaysia from AirAsia Philippines. With all those "Truly Asia" commercials running on cable TV, it was good to finally see a bit of Malaysia for myself. From racing at Sepang to dancing at the SkyBar, it was a whirlwind two days but a blast, nonetheless. Seeing Petronas towers with my own two eyes was a great experience as well.

2011 Ligligan Parul

Seeing the stars fall down on Pampanga. We came back to San Fernando for the Ligligan Parul Giant Lantern Festival and just like before, the creativity and artistry of the Kapampangans never fail to amaze me. Sta. Lucia repeated as champion and deservedly so but all of the ten barangays who poured a year of their time, talent and energies into preserving a Filipino Christmas tradition, are all winners in their own right.

Postcript. Lagalog is nearing its 8th year (it's going to be eight this third week of January which is like eternity in the blogworld) and while I really don't know what's in store for next year, where this site is headed to or where life will take me next, I'm really, deeply grateful for all the trips, all the assignments, all the breaks and opportunities, and for all the friends and acquaintances I've made along the way. I'm also thankful for the mixed blessings I received in 2011 -- including authoring my very first book, going to Malaysia for free, receiving another nomination in the Philippine Blog Awards for the fourth straight year and being a finalist in the Batangas AlaEh Photo Contest. As I write this, I am still working on some projects that needed to be done within the next two weeks so I'm busy but deeply grateful. Shalom!

My Christmas Reflection

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 22 Dec 2011 14:47:00 +0000

Manila Cathedral lit up for the Simbang Gabi

Admittedly, this year brought mixed fortunes to me. Business can be better. Work process can be a lot more efficient. Billing and collection can be faster. But no matter what my situation is right now, I really ought to count my blessings and be thankful just for being alive. Watching the news about how Typhoon Sendong affected the southern part of the country, particularly Cagayan de Oro and Iligan, and seeing the toll on human lives and properties, I just can't fathom how the holidays would be for those people who've lost their homes or loved ones. I personally reflect on the fact that Christmas is not just about expecting and receiving gifts but also about sharing what we have especially to those who are more needy. And while there is a lot to be said about the issue of environmental degradation that contributed once again to this incident, it is clear that our our kababayans need help fast. If you have it in your heart to give, send your donation to one of my favorite charities, CBNAsia, through www.obphil.com/sendong or through other organizations like the Philippine National Red Cross. Have a blessed and meaningful Christmas!

2011 Ligligan Parul Giant Lantern Festival: The night the stars fell down on Pampanga

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 05:10:00 +0000

Giant Lantern intricate detail

The last time we attended the Ligligan Parul, Pampanga's giant lantern festival, was two years ago, during the festival's 100th year anniversary. It was bedlam but typical of Pinoy celebrations, a merry one where locals and guests come together to continue a Filipino Christmas celebration. We came back to a more orderly one, again hosted by the Robinsons Starmills Mall with even more people in attendance. Getting a media pass on the spot was a breeze compared to 2009 when passes have to be procured as early as October. The position of the media platform was, however, quite a disappointment as we were relegated to the left-most part of the car park grounds -- not so ideal in shooting the other half of the 10 giant lanterns on display. On a bright note, we were spared from the long pleasantries by the kind mayor as the clouds threatened intermittent rains so the contest started early enough.

Last minute light check

Anyway, it's got to be a challenge for the parol-makers to keep coming up with designs that continue to wow guests and audiences year-after-year. For repeat visitors like us, we're kept in suspense looking for new tweaks. This year's edition is not short on drama as one of the lanterns failed -- the entry from Sto. Niño -- which must be a big disappointment for its makers. All that hard work (most are planned as long as a year in advance) for nothing. Considering the intricacies involved in parol-making (imagine using upwards of 7,000 bulbs, hundreds of meters of wires and a completely mechanical switching mechanism), a lot of things can really happen on the day of the competition.

Sta. Lucia emerged as the repeat champion

Runner-up Brgy. San Jose

For this year's edition, the favorite (mine and the crowd's) was clear-cut from round one -- defending champion Sta. Lucia. From the outset, the barangay obviously spent thousands of hours in preparing to defend their title with a lantern that looked beautiful even while unlit, a light sequence that dazzled from start to finish, and a great choice of fast-paced music that didn't bore at all.

My other favorites were the entries from Brgys. Telebastagan and Calulut. While we weren't able to finish the evening program as we had to rush back to Manila via public transport and hopefully avoid being further gridlocked by rain-induced traffic everywhere, we weren't surprised to find out later that Sta. Lucia deservedly won first place. Second went to Brgy. San Jose and third to Brgy. Del Carmen. For their efforts alone, all the barangays were winners.

Another one of my favorites -- the entry from Brgy. Calulut

2nd Placer Brgy. Del Carmen

Finding somewhere to eat at 10 in the evening was a challenge as the malls were jampacked with revelers who were thinking the same thing as we did -- get out of the venue right after the three rounds of judging. Going home to Manila was an even bigger challenge as getting out of the intersection to the highway took like 20-25 minutes and traffic slowed down to a crawl from Balintawak to Kammuning. But it was fun and worth the trip to once more see the giant stars descend on Pampanga for the Christmas season.

At a day and age when everything seems to have that high-tech gloss and are push-button-ready, it's good to know that some things and traditions remain the same -- including the hand-made stars that showcase the Kapampangans' talent for handcrafting and dazzle the human imagination.

Info: The Ligligan Parul 2011 opened last Dec. 17 at the Robinsons Starmills Mall in San Fernando, Pampanga. The giant lanterns will be on exhibit until Dec. 22 and again from Dec. 25 to January 3. To go there via commute: ride the bus headed for Olongapo (we rode the Bataan Transit bus which stops at the SM City Pampanga, P102, 1 1/2 hours travel time)

• See more of my giant lantern images here.
• Related reading: Pampanga Giant Lantern Festival 2009: Celebrating 100 years of Parol Making

The Makati New Year Countdown is back

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 10:46:00 +0000

Magical, Musical Makati New Year Countdown Poster

I've almost always traveled out of town during the Christmas-New Year interim but this year will be different. I'll be working behind-the-scenes as the Makati New Year Countdown returns with a bang. So if you're staying in town for the holidays, save your fireworks money and check out the Magical, Musical Makati New Year Countdown 2012 • Program starts at around 5:30pm • Ayala corner Makati Avenue • with live performances by Antimano, Bloom Brothers, Silk, The Company, and The Dawn • Admission is free

Poster credits: Creative direction: Oggie Ramos • Art direction: Roger Pe, Norbel Pambid • Project management: Dulce Perez/Activ8

AMOSUP, Looking Back, Sailing Forward: Finally, a book to call my own

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 13:54:00 +0000

AMOSUP at 50 Book Cover

I came from an era raised on the printed page. Growing up, I always looked forward to the arrival of the Britannica Book of the Year through the snail mail, researched at home using our now-vintage Encyclopaedia Britannica and saved my lunch money so I can collect pocketbooks bought from the old National Bookstore and secondhand book stalls along Avenida.

I guess it's a different story now with e-books, Kindle and iPads. Call me old-fashioned but I still dig the convenience of requiring no batteries to read as well as the romance of lying in the middle of nowhere and taking in all the words, the scent of paper (musty for old books, ink-infused for new prints), the sound of flipping and the feel of each page. Of course, I've always dreamed of having my own book. Any book will do.

Book sample inside page

It took awhile but this year saw the realization of that dream. I got an opportunity to create a book for a client. Entitled "AMOSUP at 50, Looking Back, Sailing Forward," it marks the culmination of a year-long engagement and a lifelong dream. I feel privileged to be part of a project that pays tribute to an institution that in turn honors the Filipino seafarer.

As with any project, this one taught me a lot of things aside from realizing that not only is the Philippines the texting capital of the world but the crewing capital as well. For example, 75% of the Japanese maritime industry is manned by Filipino seafarers. Imagine that.

No project is accomplished without the help of an understanding and patient crew so I thank my art director, Reno Maniquis; project manager, Jing Punla; and my clients from AMOSUP headed by Doc. Conrado Oca and JB Oca for making this book possible.

Panutsa, comfort food from Taal Town

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 15:58:00 +0000

Stirring the mixture makes the air redolent with the scent of nuts and syrup

Peanuts. That's what the mention of Taal town reminds me apart from the comfort and solace that its beautiful churches, Basilica de San Martin de Tours and Our Lady of Caysasay, offer. It's nostalgic how each place reminds you of a particular flavor or fancy and Taal town reminds me of panutsa. The gooey, sticky piece of peanut brittle maybe a reminder that if the balisong (fan knife) is symbolic of the infamous Batangueño temperament, the locals have a sweet and endearing quality to their persona.

On a recent DIY trip, it got our curiosity piqued so much that we decided to make a short detour from our visit of heritage houses and asked around where we can observe the making of the tasty treat. This led our motley group to Serian, a short walk from the church of Our Lady of Caysasay where the women workers of Paula's were busy making batches of fresh panutsa.

Ladling the mixture into bamboo molds take patient hands

We somehow dreaded what we will find out, remembering for example, the horror stories of how patis (local fish sauce) is made in not very hygienic conditions. But our fears were assuaged by what we saw. The process appears simple but is really hot, sweaty and laborious especially on the part of the lone man manning the stove. Brown sugar is heated in a big wok or cauldron over hot coals until the crystal turns into syrup. Crushed peanuts are then added little by little, folded repeatedly into the fragrant liquid. The mixture is continuously stirred with a big wooden ladle that resembles an oar to keep the syrup from sticking to the wok. It is then ladled into coconut husks and later, into bamboo molds of different sizes (small ones sell for P100 for six pieces, the bigger ones for P100 for two pieces) and allowed to cool before being labeled and packed in clear plastic.

Panutsa anyone?

These find their way into the bus stops as well as the ambulant vendors around Taal and nearby towns. Dunno but I always buy more than I ought to from the vendors waiting outside the Basilica de San Martin de Tours, partly to help them make good buena mano (the first sale of the day), and maybe because I really find them comforting even at a time when so many sweets vie for my attention. I ask the owner of Paula's how business is doing and she said that on a good day, they make and distribute at least a thousand pieces. Really comforting to know that in a world that seems to be fast-changing, some things do stay the same.

Related reads:

• Basilica de San Martin de Tours
• Our Lady of Caysasay
• Villavicencio Heritage House

Vote for my picture in WowBatangas' AlaEh Photo Contest

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:13:00 +0000

The Basilica de San Martin de Tours of Taal Town at sunset

My image of the Basilica de San Martin de Tours of Taal Town has been chosen as a finalist for the AlaEh Photo Contest of WowBatangas. Please vote for me in the Viewers' Choice.

Here's how:

1) Go to www.facebook.com/wowbatangas

2) LIKE the WOWBatangas.com page

3) Click the Main Event Photo Contest tab on the left side

4) Allow the Pinoy Contest app

5) Look for the Main Event PLACE Category album

6) Find the photo entry. Hit Vote!

Note: Make sure you disable "Secure" https browsing first at the account settings. You can enable it again after voting.

Voting period is from Nov. 16 to Dec. 7, 2011. Thanks!

Taal Town tripping: Lessons I've learned from Lola Nora

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 20 Nov 2011 09:31:00 +0000

Lola Nora at the Basilica de San Martin de Tours

I was last here in Taal town two years ago and while there had been quite a lot of visible changes (the gleaming, new, motorized bells of the Basilica de San Martin de Tours and the fresh paint on the walls are just a few), I'd like to take note of the things that changed little. I've already written about the Basilica as well as the tale of Our Lady of Caysasay and feel no need to be rendundant. So for a change, I write about Lola Nora, the seller of Familia candles at the northern entrance of the basilica and for repeat visitors, a friendly fixture at the basilica.

Due to the sheer number of people who pass by the church everyday the last two years, I honestly wouldn't expect Lola Nora to have even the faintest sense of recognition of my face. But Lola Nora, now 73 years old, clearly recounted the afternoon we passed by in November 2009, when I cajoled her for a picture or two as well as the sharing of anecdotes about her family and how business has been a bit slow. She mirthfully laughs at the thought of her picture being taken, her face featured in the Internet for a reason she can't grasp. She also told me there was another photographer who has earlier asked her to pose for a picture but whom she brushed off, saying "kasi ko naman siya kilala (because I didn't know him at all)".

Waiting in the wings

This reminds me a lot of what my good friend, Ironwulf, told me after his recent trip to Myanmar. As I couldn't join, I told him to please send my regards to Ko Ko, a seller I befriended in Shwezigon Paya in new Bagan during my solo backpack trip. I was pleasantly surprised that Ko Ko even remembered my Kata backpack which I lent to Ironwulf for the trip and that he remembered me from more than two years ago. Ko Ko helped me parry all those persistent vendors in the temple, advised me on what time of day to revisit, and gave me gifts of nats as souvenirs of that memorable trip.

Remembering Ko Ko

I can only speak for myself but I guess the lesson here is that I can't really underestimate the impact of my interactions with the people I meet in my travels. Hmmm, it couldn't be about the money because I'm a tightwad, budget backpacker whose idea of travel shopping is bringing home just a ref magnet or two. I think it's less about spending money buying but more about spending time to connect with strangers and immersing in their world, no matter how fleeting. Yes, I'm interested in taking a good picture. However, I'm also interested in finding more about the person behind the image. Lessons learned on the road of travel and of life.

Lagalog thanks Smugs Metro Manila for the Taal town photo walk. For more info on the group's activities, just visit this link.

Related reads:
• To read about the Villavicencio House in Taal town, go here.
• To read about my trip to Bagan and Mt. Poppa, go here.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Go karting at Sepang, strolling at the park and dancing 33 storeys above ground

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 23:00:00 +0000

Mother and child scene at the City Centre Park

We woke up to a day that alternated between sunny and cloudy (fairly standard weather over here the past weeks so we heard). After a tasty, leisurely, buffet breakfast at ParkRoyal, we were off to the Sepang International Circuit. As it was over an hour's drive from downtown KL, it was interesting to observe the impressive development spread over the outskirts but our lack of sleep must've showed. Simon, our oft-funny, always gregarious guide was mercifully quick to notice and gave us some slack to catch up on lost sleep.

Sepang Circuit graceful roof details

On to the race tracks. It's past the MotoGP dates but sitting on the stands near the pit stop of the northern paddock, it's easy to imagine thousands of racing fans shouting themselves hoarse cheering lustily for their favorites. We didn't get the chance to step on the track as a 5-car team from Mercedes Benz was running laps during our visit. But we were privileged to be given a tour of the facilities including the Welcome Centre with its impressive museum, the luxurious Corporate Suites, the sprawling Media Centre, the off-limits Monitoring Room, and the VIP Suite where the Malaysian Prime Minister, his staff and guests view the races in airconditioned comfort, high above the stands.

Golden Palm Tree Sea Resort under the blue and grey skies

Visiting the west coast. We took a break for lunch to the Golden Palm Tree Resort, a 5-star sea resort at the Sepang Goldcoast, some 15-20 minute drive from the Kuala Lumpur International Airport. Riding a motorized cart to the lobby, we saw Polynesian-Maldivian-inspired villas on stilts jutting out to the calm sea, overlooking the Straits of Malacca. I just thought it would be nice to shoot this resort at sunset time, preferably from the air to better appreciate the outline of a palm tree formed by the 300 villas. The food -- from the grilled chicken to the beef rendang -- was very tasty though the desserts could be more flavorful. We ate lunch gazing out to sea, eyeing the nearby infinity pool, and peeking at the cabanas where locals and guests were enjoying the lazy breeze.

Our group heading out to the North Paddock

Back on track. We may have missed the MotoGP but we were given an hour to burn rubber on the Go Kart Circuit designed by F1 Track designer, Hermann Tilke, who also designed the layout of the Sepang International Circuit main F1 track. Speeding through the 10-meter-wide track and 11 challenging bends, we got a taste of how it feels to be in an actual race, not merely spinning our wheels on a video game. Nevermind that it was still mid-afternoon and the hot sun was bearing down on us. Open Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm • Fri, 10am to 1am • Rates: Quick Experience - RM40 (approx. Php560)/pax/10 minutes; Race Adventure - RM150 (approx. Php2,100)/pax/45min - 1 hour • For info, visit http://www.malaysiangp.com.my

Racing at the Go Kart Circuit

A quick stroll at City Centre and Merdeka Square.. It's been a long day and after a quick stop at Beryl's Chocolate (can't enjoy as much chocolates as I used to due to GERD), we went back to the City Centre for a stroll at the park near the Petronas Twin Towers (the bridge was under repair so we didn't go inside) and the historic Merdeka Square. Hmmm, maybe next time I find myself in KL, will people-watch and hopefully get a good shot of the cityscape from the bridge of the Twin Towers. One thing I noticed is the lushness of the surroundings even within the city centre, something that reminds me of Singapore.

Partying at Sky Bar

Chilling out at 33-storeys. After a nice dinner at a hawker place and a quick dash to the Low Yat Plaza mall (while fighting off the urge to splurge on a new electronic gadget or camera accessory), we headed to the SkyBar of the Traders Hotel at the KL City Centre. Simon says it's the most happening club in Kuala Lumpur and it's easy to see why. The view of the fully-lit Petronas Twin Towers from the 33rd floor is just incredible. A swimming facility by day, the place pulsates with music and dancing after dark, with cozy nooks for chilling out and chitchats overlooking the cityscape. Admittedly, the rates are not for budget backpackers like me but it was a nice experience nonetheless. Open Sun-Thu from 10am-1am; 10am-3am (Fri, Sat and eve of public holidays)

Lagalog thanks: AirAsia Philippines and Tourism Malaysia for making this trip possible. AirAsia Philippines is poised to commence flights out of Clark's Diosdado Macapagal International Airports using its brand-new Airbus A320 planes starting this November • For more info on Malaysia, visit Tourism Malaysia at www.tourism.gov.my

Flying AirAsia to Kuala Lumpur

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:49:00 +0000

The iconic Petronas Twin Towers -- resplendent at night

After weeks of typhoons and monsoon rains, the window of good weather and should I say, good breaks, held sway for the past two weekends.. The better to enjoy an a surprise trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, on a familiarization tour courtesy of AirAsia Philippines and Tourism Malaysia. It's quite a whirlwind of a trip, the itinerary packed for the extended weekend but exciting nonetheless.

The hectic sked aside, we got to visit the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, until 2003 the world's tallest buildings, not just once but twice. We were billeted at the ParkRoyal Hotel along Jalan Sultan Ismail near Bukit Bintang and the towers were just 10-12 minutes away by foot. That we stayed very near the malls, especially Low Yat Plaza, was a tempting cause for dropping by for a look-see of the low-priced electronics on offer, but that's an altogether different story.

AirAsia premises within LCCT

First stop, the LCCT. The first order of the day was acquainting ourselves with the Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCCT) and AirAsia Academy. The LCCT, which was built in 2006, forms an important part of the airline's low cost, no-frills business model which enables AirAsia to offer truly low fares. Located 20 kms away from the Kuala Lumpur International Airport and 60 kms from the city proper, the LCCT is a very busy hub currently handling 10 million passengers every year and is being expanded to handle up to 15 million.

Going around the AirAsia offices within the LCCT, we saw a vibrant and dynamic workplace, the walls splashed with larger-than-life timelines and murals of the airline's many endeavors including motorsports and basketball (ABL), among many others. With the recent establishment of AirAsia Philippines, it is only natural to aspire to achieve the vibrancy and vivacity of LCCT for the Clark hub in Diosdado Macapagal International Airport. We even dropped by founder, Tony Fernandes', corner office which is as casual as casual can be with a floor-to-ceiling wall of baseball caps and beanbag on the floor. Our short talk with Regional Head of Customer Experience, Zaman Ahmad,was revealing as he intimated that the airlines is establishing its ASEAN office in Jakarta to make it an Asian airline instead of being a Malaysian brand and that perhaps, as a sign of the times, he said that more and more business people are flying with AirAsia.

AirAsia Academy Seal

Next stop, the AirAsia Academy. It was a bit late in the workday and rainclouds were roiling in the horizon but the tour around the Academy was an interesting one. AirAsia may be the acknowledged leader in low cost travel but it certainly spared no expense in making a model facility. Located at the Southern Support Zone of the Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) in Sepang, the facility covers every facet of the airline business -- from flight training right down to grooming. This is where all the Filipino pilots, cabin and ground crew of AirAsia Philippines train. It was not hard to be impressed with the bank of flying simulators on motion platform. We tried flying and landing on one of these US$7 million contraptions, an A320 simulator, and had a blast even if we came nowhere to bringing the craft to a safe take-off and landing.

Simulators on motion platform

Next: Go-kart racing at Sepang, strolling in the park and chilling out at 33-storeys

Batanes Unusual

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 18 Oct 2011 17:49:00 +0000

Mahatao gradients of greens and blues

It took me two trips to Batanes before I was able to cross over to Sabtang and three trips before I was able to step on the northernmost inhabited island of Itbayat. Though it seems like my Batanes Three-Island Hop resembled an installment plan scheme that took five years to complete, I feel fortunate to be given as many privileges to visit. Truth be told, I never minded and with each trip, I discover something new.

Imnajbu - where the local version of Wuthering Heights was shot

Admittedly, Batanes is one of my most favorite local destinations. After all, what's not to like there -- the laidback vibe, the incredible scenery, the un-polluted air, the simple life, the friendly locals. I remember being mesmerized by the rolling hills of Viang dotted by grazing, nonchalant cows, entertained by the stubborn goats in Imnajbu, and hypnotized by the raw beauty of Valugan.

Itbayat rustic scenery - green hills, blue waters, cloud-filled skies

Over at Sabtang, I feel that an afternoon spent on Nakabuang Beach is simply not enough. Ditto, revisiting the stone house community at Savidug. A four-hour-boat ride away, I was fascinated by the vernacular grass houses of Raele which preceded the iconic Batanes stone house, the wilder coast of Pagganaman and the beautiful Sta. Maria Church.

Well, I guess the participants of our upcoming Batanes Three-Island Hop Photo Tour and Workshop this coming April 1-7, 2012 will be luckier than me. They'll be able to set foot on Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat in just one trip and see for themselves how beautiful this island group is. If you're interested in venturing northwards this coming Holy Week break, join us as we island hop Batanes. For more information or to register, visit www.backpackphotography.net or email backpackphoto@gmail.com.

Sportraits

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 09 Oct 2011 16:39:00 +0000

Rachel Anne Daquis flows

While waiting for a chance to go on a trip again, Lagalog is busy with work and in between, some recreation. I've been a volleyball fan for the longest time and watching the game is a not-so-secret vice for me (I used to play volleyball and is very familiar with the intricacies of the game, hence this fascination). Here are some snaps from the recent PVF Philippine Open where I had the privilege of catching the newly-formed RP women's team in action. They didn't fare well in the tourney but I was lucky to get some snaps which I call Sportraits since they somehow show these athletes in pensive and serious moments.

UST alumna Ging Balse in a pensive mood pre-game

Watching the games in Ninoy Aquino Stadium is sobering for me. I haven't been here since my sportswriting days at The Manila Standard ages ago and while I want to wax sentimental about it, the place looked shabby and worn-out. There were trash everywhere after the games and the roof leaks in various places when it rains. The seats have really seen better days, some broken into pieces, a lot of others with sticky seats from only God knows what. I appreciate the free entrance but I wouldn't mind being charged a fee to help restore a little dignity to this historical place (not many people know the sports complex was the site of the 1954 Asian Games. Imagine that).

Fan favorite Daquis sparkles even under the uneven stadium lights

Then, there's this curious thing about the security guards at the gates. They wouldn't let you in without leaving an I.D. at the Pablo Ocampo (formerly Vito Cruz) entrance so you'll have to enter through the gate on the Harrison Plaza side. The kicker is that you could exit via the Vito Cruz entrance. I don't really mind the extra walk but after the games, the street is a tad too dark. Anyway, walking inside the compound past the tennis courts, the stadium with its track oval, the buildings for the national weightlifting and bowling teams makes me think back to my sportswriting days. Funny (maybe not), the edifices seem like what they used to be.

Former UST standout Ging Balse with her game face

Roomorama: Roam and room around the world

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:32:00 +0000

Actual apartment from Roomorama's network

Ahh, the joys of going online – you can book flights and look for accommodations without leaving your desk. However, looking for quality accommodations and actually finding them can be two very different things. Yeah, you can stay at a hotel but it’s expensive especially during longer stays. Costs aside, the experience tend to be cookie-cutter and homogenous.

Real room, Makati transient house, $19/night

Contrast this to living in an apartment in a good neighborhood right in your place of destination. You can get more room for less money and best of all, when you step out, you get immersed in the local community life, not in an endless corridor of doorways and wall-to-wall carpeting. That is, if you can find an apartment up to your liking for the budget you have in mind.

This is where Roomorama can prove really useful.

What’s Roomorama? It’s a peer-to-peer rental agency that brings together apartment owners in over 400 locations (478 and counting) worldwide and links them to guests on the lookout for high-quality, affordable short-term accommodations or rentals.

Regardless of the time zone differences, you can always book through Roomorama since it has an in-house customer service team available 24/7. What’s more, payment and transactions are simple and secure – your payment is not forwarded until you get to your accommodations. And each accommodation is verified and validated by Roomorama.

3-br house in Cebu, $50/night

For the savings alone, it’s worth exploring Roomorama whether it’s for a day or weeks-long stay. Times like these, the norm isn’t anymore how expensive your accommodations should be but how much less you paid and how much more value you’re getting from your buck. That you get to experience the local life comes as a special benefit, not just as a bonus when you book with Roomorama.

Images attribution: Roomorama website

Sunday inspiration

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Wed, 21 Sep 2011 17:05:00 +0000

Simple interface, meaningful words, inspiring images

Over three years ago, I had a Sunday's Best blog as my way of giving back to my faith. However, many things -- lack of readership, work and other preoccupations -- got in the way. In the interim, I was always wondering what my ministry could be as a Christian first and as a writer-photographer second. Call it another epiphany or reawakening, I thought I heard a voice telling me that it's been right in front of me all along. So with renewed faith, I am bringing back my faith blog, this time as a photo-narrative site, Sunday-Divine-Inspirations.

The net is being used to peddle so much worldliness that it sometimes feel like God is being left out in cyberspace. So why not do my humble part and share the Sunday Gospel accompanied by my images to provide some Sunday inspiration? If the spirit moves you, you, dear reader, can right-click the image and use the image as your desktop image to inspire you for the week ahead. From time to time, I would also share some links and content I think would be worth imparting to readers. So, shall I see you this Sunday and every Sunday thereafter? Shalom and God bless you!

Butuan Snapshot: Local Color at a Bus Stop on the Way to Bislig

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:44:00 +0000

Either Pinoys love to eat chips or that the long bus trip from Butuan to Bislig (five hours not including stops) necessitate all that snacking which makes good business for bus stop vendors like this lola (elderly woman). We never got to sample her wares as I bought banana chips from another store but we wish her business well. Just sharing a snap from our recent Butuan-Bislig-Davao trip.

Bislig, Surigao del Sur: Hagonoy Island and a Series of Very Fortunate Events

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 09 Sep 2011 16:52:00 +0000

Hagonoy Island blues

So there I was, lying on a hammock lulled to sleep by the breeze coming from the bay. The sun hung low in the horizon, the haze obscuring the lay of Bislig City. While the northern part of Luzon was experiencing the effects of a typhoon, here we were given the privilege of enjoying sunny weather. How we found our way to Hagonoy Island was a series of very, very fortunate events.

Finding our digs, finding our way. We came to Bislig in Surigao del Sur, Mindanao, on the heels of a big convention and not having made reservations in advance, we went from inn to inn in Mangagoy looking for accommodations with no luck. Tipped off by the kind lass manning Pension La Salle, we tried our luck one more time in One Eleven, the oldest inn in the barangay. The place was vacant because its water pump was busted. We cajoled the owner, Mang Carding Cejoco, to let us stay even for a night even if it means we have to fetch water for bathing.

Now, who would've thought that Mang Carding was the brother of the owner of Hagonoy Island? We first spotted the flyer advertising this destination in Pension La Salle and called. After a series of text messages and calls, we earned an invitation to visit the very next day from no less than its owner, Aling Ambing Cejoco, who was preparing for the arrival of guests from out-of-town at the break of dawn.

Hagonoy Island sunrise silhouette

Sunrise island-hopping. Fighting off diazepam-induced sleepiness (I had to visit the community clinic after midnight for a check-up), it was rewarding to venture out to sea before the full brunt of the sun was upon us. The sea was calm, the 30-minute ride from the market-side pier, smooth. Along the way, we passed by big boats yet to set sail and fishing platforms strewn with nets, also bancas "parked" on wooden stilts, perhaps due to the lack of a real sandy shoreline.

To my mind, Hagonoy seems to be a palm-fringed sand bar that mysteriously rose from the sea. The sand, while not very white, was fine and kind to the feet. It only takes a few minutes to go from one end to the other but the island has its charms. The facilities are spartan but adequate -- several cottages/huts, showers and restrooms with running water, a volleyball court and barbecue grill. Oh, and a solitary hammock facing the east -- something I put to good use.

Fishing platform in the sunrise hours

Hospitality, Bislig-style. A privately-owned island, Hagonoy is open to guests who'd want to island-hop instead of staying land-locked. Understandably, the local government is grooming it to be the next major natural attraction for tourists second to Tinuy-an Falls. In the early morning with no visitors yet in sight, the island is a picture of, pardon the cliche, tropical tranquility. We had the opportunity to revisit later in the afternoon, thanks to our incredible luck of being at the receiving end of Aling Ambing's hospitality.

Hagonoy tree-lined shoreline

We concluded our day spending the sunset and early evening hours on the island. To compound our good fortune, we met Bislig's Vice Mayor, Conrad Cejoco, Aling Ambing's son, who was spending the night on the island with friends (Unbeknown to us at that time, he was a buddy and classmate of a friend). An ordinary meal would taste like a feast here. But call it luck, serendipity or blessedness, we got treated to a real, honest-to-goodness feast come dinner time with prawns, lobsters, crabs, bangus and chicken hot off the grill served under a canopy of stars and palm trees swaying lazily to the rhythm of the gentle sea breeze. If this isn't Bislig bliss, I don't know what is.

Hagonoy Pier in the early morning

Info: Hagonoy Island can be reached via pumpboat from the Bislig pier, travel time: approximately 30 minutes • Entrance fee: P50; parking for pumpboat: P60; cottage rental P100 (small) and P200 (big) • The grounds are also ideal for setting up tents • Pumpboat rental fee: P1,000 (10 pax, roundtrip) or P1,500 (20 pax, roundtrip)

Bislig, Surigao del Sur: Venturing to the Philippines' easternmost city and Tinuy-an Falls

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 02 Sep 2011 14:00:00 +0000

Tinuy-an Falls: breathtakingly-beautiful by day

After an uneventful trip to Butuan where visiting the Balangay site museum yielded no souvenir images (why taking pictures of the original Balangay to help bring in more tourists is prohibited is beyond me), we knew we have to move on to Bislig in Surigao del Sur, about 152 kilometers or six-hour-bus ride away.

Mangagoy impressions. I thought that this premier barangay had a laidback vibe with an assortment of old and new inns, shops, raucous six-seater tricycles and charming small eateries. We hired a van from here to head off to the falls in Borboanan, about an hour's drive away. I must admit the biggest attraction in going all the way here was not to see what remains of a place which used to enjoy the prominence of being home to PICOP, one of Asia's largest paper mills before it closed in 2008. The incentive was rather an opportunity to see what is arguably the country's most gorgeous falls.

Crowds enjoy the 95-meter-wide main cascade

Searching for adjectives to describe Tinuy-an. This trip was a year-in-the-making and it certainly is interesting to find out if Tinuy-an is as beautiful as I read about it. The falls is of special significance to Bislig apart from its natural beauty. With the closure of the paper mill and the resulting loss of revenue, the city turned to tourism with the falls as its jewel. The falls is some 15 kilometers away from the main road in Borboanan, taking one through an artificial lake before the terrain rises. We came on a long weekend holiday but surprisingly, the crowd was manageable unlike the hordes we saw in the Enchanted River in Hinatuan later in the day.

In broad daylight, Tinuy-an is simply breathtaking and majestic. At 55 meters, it isn't the tallest falls in the country but its 95 meter-wide curtain gives the main cascade that panoramic, wide-screen gape and gush-at-it factor. I won't give in to the temptation to ride on the "Niagara Falls of the Philippines" hype since I think Tinuy-an has a beauty all its own.

Tinuy-an at dusk: mystical and surreal

Tinuy-an blues. We came back before sunset after a rather disappointing trip to the Enchanted River in Hinatuan and I must say the falls has a mystical, surreal feel. With the crowds gone, the desolation added to the mood. We heard from some locals that the local government is planning to build a structure (a view deck? a hotel?) above the falls which is saddening. (why can't we leave nature alone?) We also observed guests openly throwing garbage into the waters or the rocks. Pity. Considering that Tinuy-an is the city's flagship tourism attraction, I just hope the local government as well as the locals and guests will take better care of it.

Info on transport: Going to Mangagoy: Bachelor Bus ply the Butuan-Mangagoy route; travel time: approximately 6 hours; fare for non-AC bus: P243.50 • Alternatively, you can take the Davao City-Mangagoy route via bus or van; travel time: around 6-7 hours • Going to Tinuy-an: Vehicles can be hired from Mangagoy to go to Tinuy-an; prices vary so haggle smartly; travel time: around 1 hour • Tinuy-an rates: P50/pax for entrance; parking fee: P10 for motorcycles/tricycles, P20 for four-wheelers; cottages (P300), tents (P200) and tables (P100-200) are available for rental, overnight accommodation are also available • Info on Bislig: this city is part of the province of Surigao del Sur in Mindanao; it is around 208 kilometers away from Davao City • According to Wikipedia, Bislig derived its name from "bizlin", a kind of gold worth two pesos used by the locals for trade and commerce in the 16th century

Sagada: Finding canine company at Rock Inn

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 01:43:00 +0000

Perky Bart

It was Hamlin who met us. Broad-shouldered, big-boned, strappy, he cuts an imposing profile. But to my surprise, he was a very amiable fella. Then, it became a succession of welcoming individuals. There's sexy Sally, puffy Fluffy, perky Bart, and frisky Kapitan. Maybe, it's out of friendly curiosity. But more likely, it's the force of habit. We didn't get to meet the other big fella, Butch, until the next day. But this is one heck of a fine welcome.

Handsome Hamlin

Welcome to Rock Inn. It's two kilometers away from the town center of Sagada and there's so much to talk about and appreciate here. The location is ideal if peace and quiet are what you're after (Think of quiet days when the only sound you'll hear are the merry chit-chats of workers tending to the orange trees or the occasional, distant rumble of vehicles passing by the main road). The accommodations are very cozy, to say the least, most with a view of the orchard of Sagada orange trees. The view of the dining area alone is refreshing, a floor-to-ceiling window that pulls in the breathtaking vista outside. Not to forget, the staff is friendly and accommodating without being over-eager.

Sexy Sally

Still, I best remember Rock Inn for the canine company it keeps. I distinctly remember being driven to the town center by Wanda, one of the owners, with two of the big dogs -- Butch and Kapitan -- keeping pace with us until we reached a quarry site further down the main road. No mean feat for 8- and 9-year olds, I'd say. I've said it before and I'll say it again -- I think places that openly display affection for pets, specially dogs, are often great places to stay in. On the way back to Baguio, our bus passed by the quarry again. We waved to Kapitan who's perched on a smooth rock. I don't know if he saw or recognized us but it was reassuring to see him there, blissfully watching the world go by.

Pensive Butch

Info: Rock Inn is located within Rock Farm, a four hectare plantation of Sagada oranges in the fringes of Sagada. For more info, click this link, email info@rockfarmsagada.com or text/call 0920.9095899 or 0928.2131149

Sagada: A fiery sunrise, a newly-explored falls and a misguided guide

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 01:44:00 +0000

Twin falls of Tap-ew

My first few times in Sagada, I filled my days with activities. One particular trip, I was up Mt. Ampacao and down to the belly of Sumaguing Cave in a span of a few hours. Over time, I've come to embrace the merits of slowing down and immersing myself in the moment. Maybe, photography has something to do with it -- waiting for the ideal light to come. And well, after our blitz of preparations for a series of events early this month (imagine compressing half-a-year's worth of prep into under two months), the last thing on my mind is to crowd the itinerary and rush.

Sun-painted sky over the poblacion

While my fingers were itching to shoot, at times, it's liberating to just enjoy the break and just shoot whenever the opportunity presented itself. Like waking up ahead of the sun and finding a magnificently-painted sky just outside our room in George Guest House in the poblacion then going back to sleep with that magnificent sunrise in my head.

Exploring a new falls. One particular site we wanted to devote a day to was the big falls, Bomod-ok. Inquiring at the guest information center, we were proffered the idea of going to another, relatively-unexplored falls, Tap-ew. Not all the guides know the falls enough to guide us, we were told. A van with driver was arranged, a guide picked up along the way to the jump-off. The price of P800 was quoted for the van and P1,200 for the guide. Steep, if you'd ask me, since we were just two but we took the offer in the hope that the experience of exploring the newer attraction would be worth it.

Triple cascades of Pongas under a grey sky

We got to the jump-off in Balugan in around 15-20 minutes. From there, it's a hike across fields and up the mountainous terrain before descending to the other side. After over two hours of hiking, we got to several vantage points that offer different views of some of the seven cascades. Under grey skies that threatened precipitation, we descended to the triple cascades of Pongas. Even sans lunch, the view of the triple cascades invigorated us. We went home following another trail through the falls and onto Angkileng.

The company of a misguided guide. For most of the way to Tap-ew, our guide trekked far out of sight and hearing. On one particularly slippery descent near Pongas where the earth is crumbly and handholds are few, we yelled ourselves hoarse to no avail. While a strong hiker, our guide obviously missed the point of being a "guide." To add insult to injury, our van driver charged us P900 on the way back from Suyo. It's frustrating for repeat visitors like us to get this kind of treatment. This experience also serves as a caveat for other visitors, especially to the newly-explored areas as there are no real standard rates yet. For the benefit of readers who may want to visit the most-frequented sites, I am posting the standard rates below.

One of the cascades of Pongas

Tour guide rates: • Sumaguing Cave: (1-4 pax, P500), (5 pax, P600), (6-9 pax, P1,000, 2 guides), (10 pax, P1,200, 2 guides), (11-14 pax, P1,500, 3 guides), (15 pax, P1,800, 3 guides), (16-20 pax, P2,400, 4 guides), (over 21 pax, P125/pax) • Cave Connection: (1-2 pax, P800), (3 pax, P1,200), (over 4 pax, P400 per pax) • Trekking Bomod-ok or Mt. Ampacao: (1-10 pax, P600), (11-15 pax, P800), (16-20 pax, P1,200) • Balangagan Cave: (over 2 pax, P400 per pax) • Sight-seeing Tours (Any three of the ff.: Lake Danum, Echo Valley, Lumiang Cave, Underground River Entrance, Bokong Falls, Kiltepan Peak, Pottery): (1-10 pax, P400), (11-15 pax, P600), (16-20 pax, P800, 2 guides), (21-30 pax, P1,200, 2 guides) • Escort tour (choose 1 spot from the list above): (1-15 pax, P200), (16-30 pax, P400, 2 guides), (31-45 pax, P600, 3 guides) • 1-day tour package: P1,200

Vehicle hire rates: • Sumaguing Cave - one way, P250; waiting, P350; cave connection, P400 • Bomod-ok (Aguid drop-off) - one way, P400; waiting, P650 • Bokong Falls - one way, P150; waiting, P250 • Lumiang - waiting, P250 • Echo Valley - waiting, P150 • Mount Ampacao (base) - one way, P350 • Lake Danum - waiting, P500 • Kiltepan Junction - P300/Kiltepan View Point - P450 • Bontoc - P1,500 • Banaue - P4,500 • Baguio - P7,000 • 1-day tour - P1,800