lagal[og] - Philippines Travel & Photography Blog

Culion: A Morning at the Museum, Reframing the Past and Putting into Words Things Largely Unspoken

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 21 May 2013 16:30:00 +0000

Wall of memories

Ah, you can get used to the quiet. The only sounds we woke up to were the intermittent rumble of tricycles in the distance and the trilling of birds in the trees just outside the window. Not to say that Coron is that much noisier than before, only that Culion is the quintessential tranquil town, perhaps helped by the fact that electricity is rationed at the moment. No blaring radios, no out-of-place western pop to mar one's impression of the landscape and seascape -- it's a scene oft-missed by daytrippers, one worth staying a day or two for (longer if we had the time and resources at the time).

Choosing to wake up well after sunrise is a luxury savored well after the generator goes off at 5:30am. We didn't have time to make arrangements for transportation to get to a good sunrise vantage point the night prior anyway. But book a guide to the island's interior down south we did, scheduled for the afternoon. That meant we had the morning free to see a bit more of the town. Should be the museum, for no guest should leave Culion without seeing it and knowing its significance.

Bright and airy inside with light-colored walls that speak of health and healing

After an unharried breakfast, we revisited the La Immaculada Concepcion as it is located just at the back of the hotel. The good weather continues to hold; however, grey clouds loom in the horizon. Must be the rain clouds the locals were waiting for for months now. We ventured to the Culion Sanitarium and General Hospital perchance to visit the Culion Leprosy Museum and Archives located within the compound. Most museums showcase art but the one in Culion is a testament to a people's indomitable spirit, not at all a gallery of the grotesque.

It wasn't open but Mauricio, the friendly caretaker, unlocked the doors for us as well as switched on the lights and ventilation in the particular areas where we are, switching them off when we leave (speaks volume on how valuable electricity is in the islands). The walls have a fresh-looking coat of light-colored paint (barely a year old, Mauricio tells us) which gave the museum an airy and light feeling, perhaps conveying the message that yes, leprosy once was widespread on the island but has now been vanquished and relegated into the history books.

Installations and pictures conjure images of life back then

It's simply not possible to go to Culion and not be the least inquisitive about the topics of leprosy and the museum for both bridge the island's history with its present. Google "Culion" or open a history book and search for the island and you will inevitably be referred to it as a former leper colony, the largest in the world at that. Later in the afternoon, our conversation with Culion guide, Hermie Villanueva, will stray into the topic of the island's history and how at one point, some in the local government would want to ignore it for fear of turning off tourists. But can you really pretend 100 years of being a leper colony never happened? As archivist and one-time museum curator, Ricky Punzalan, said in his insightful article, "All the Things We Cannot Articulate," "Culion is a community bound by its association with disease and segregation. Past practices of forced isolation produced a population with an ethnic makeup unique from other communities of the Philippines".

Ricky further points out that "a majority of the present-day inhabitants of the island... can directly trace their lineage to former patients, if are not former patients themselves. Others link their roots to the pioneer doctors, nurses, staff or administrators of the former leprosarium." (A longtime friend, I will later found out, was the grandson of the colony's Chief from 1920-25, Dr. Jose Basa Avellana; his mother was in fact born in Culion).

Photographs and memories of healing

Established in 1898, the island was the world's largest leper colony by the 1920s. The hospital was created in 1906 with the passing of the leper segregation law by the colonial government and the arrival of the first batch of 370 patients from Cebu. From being a place of segregation where the afflicted can live out their remaining days, it became a laboratory for finding a cure as well as a "social laboratory" where different people were identified not by ethnicity or culture but by their medical condition. Moving from room to room, we see photographs and clippings that speak so much on how life on the colony was like back then. There were images and captions/stories on how sex and marriages were discouraged for fear of bringing up a new leprous generation but went on unabated anyway. The pictures of weddings and funerals are particularly poignant, records of the triumph of love and the acceptance of mortality in the face of a much-feared disease.

Upon reaching the landing at the top of the stairs, one cannot help but notice the bust of an actual patient, his face disfigured by the malady. We were quite taken aback when our guide, Hermie, told us later that he knew the man and up to now, can imagine him speaking whenever he sees the bust. On the second level, there's a room with an assortment of equipment -- wall-mounted telephones, huge dentist chairs, and a multitude of stuff from a bygone era. Apart from the visual records, there are written records that reveal so much of what transpired here. Curious that in the individual records, "patients were referred to as 'inmate', and any subsequent release from the facility was termed a 'pardon'," perhaps owing to the literal criminalization of leprosy at the time under The Segregation Law of 1907 passed by the colonial government.

"Curiosities" room on the second floor

Nowadays, Culion can be reached by a two-hour banca ride from Coron which is still a stretch for some guests. Back in the early days of the colony, it must have meant being isolated and banished somewhere far, far away (as Ricky Punzalan notes, "out of sight, out of mind"). Rough Guides even quoted a 1920s travelogue as saying that "Culion as practically an independent nation" as it even had its own currency.

A cure has been found decades ago and the island is no longer a segregation place but rather, a municipality of second and third generation descendants. However, I guess the stigma persists as Ricky writes, "In Philippine contemporary memory, Culion still connotes affliction and banishment to an 'island of no return.' It also gained a more sinister reputation as an 'island of the living dead.' " Not surprising why eager tourists flock to Puerto Princesa, El Nido or Coron but totally skip Culion or just make a brief stopover.

The importance of the museum goes beyond the superficial reason of just having one. The museum and its archives are part and parcel of the collective memory. The records are proof that "not all patients in Culion were brought there to die; many lived almost normal lives, got married, had children, and were productive citizens who contributed to the development of the community." Ricky Punzalan further writes, "the Culion Leper Colony records became the centre of attention for a community seeking for something tangible that could articulate and embody its collective heritage and symbolize its hundred years of existence."

Installation at the first level -- bed with mosquitero

Perhaps, Dr. Arturo Cunanan, the chair of the centennial celebrations in 2006 who himself was raised in a family afflicted with the disease, said it best, "The archives is the symbol of all the things we cannot articulate about our past, about our need to heal in the present and about our desire to foresee a great future."

On the way out, I asked Mauricio what his complete name is. Instead of replying, he pointed to a plaque at the entrance, a commemoration from a Japanese humanitarian foundation that included his name, Mauricio Leal. From what we will gather later, he is the son of a former patient and has been serving in the hospital and the museum for over a decade. Apart from the visual and written records, he is a living link to the past, among the few who are selflessly keeping the memory of this former leper colony alive not to relive the hurt of the past but to heal, to find its way into the future.

The Agila emblem on the hill was created in 1926 by leper patients using coral stones

Info: Entrance to the Culion Leprosy Museum and Archives (CLMA) is P50 (roughly US$12) per person; just inquire at the first building upon entering the Culion Sanitarium and General Hospital compound or look for Mauricio Leal

References and attributions: Notes and quotes culled from an article by Ricky Punzalan, archivist and curator during the museum's centennial (2005-06). www.rpunzalan.com; Roughguides • Recommended reading: Culion: A Leper Colony's 100 Year Journey Toward Healing authored by Yasmin Arquiza and published by the Culion Foundation, 2003, ISBN-13: 978-9719264309 • Tourism guide Pastor Hermie Villanueva conducts walking tours of Culion town as well as elsewhere on the island; he can be reached via mobile: 0921-3947106

Next on Lagal[og]: Culion: Heading to Kabulihan for the Mangroves, Sunsetting at Lele

Culion: Like Seeing the Starry Night Sky with a New Set of Eyes

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 16 May 2013 16:30:00 +0000

La Immaculada Concepcion on a clear, moonless night

The monotone of the boat engine and my nap kept being disrupted by the constant complaints of the short-haired woman seated near the kapitan. A local judging by the way she keeps addressing (pestering is more like it) the crew, she tells everyone either the life vest issued to her or somebody's footwear smells like sewage, even challenging everyone including the passengers to stop and smell their slippers. Mercifully, no one budged. Save for this comedic drama, the one hour and forty-five minute banca ride southwest from Coron town to Culion was uneventful. The sea was calm, the good weather holding.

It bears mentioning the boat terminal in Coron as the wi-fi signal was better than in our lodge and the facilities were orderly, owing to the recent resumption of big ferry trips from Manila via Puerto Princesa. The terminal's walls were plastered with 2Go posters advertising the promo fare of P1,200 which was impossible to miss and difficult to ignore -- something to keep in mind for a return trip hopefully in the very near future.

Hmmm, why go to Culion and not stay longer in Coron? While I still like Coron, I personally wanted to venture somewhere new. The last time I visited, we had a side trip to the wildlife reserve of Calauit farther north and enjoyed it. This occasion is no different. I was also eager to venture somewhere quieter, less touristy as I've always been a fan of small towns. Besides, it's always fascinating to go somewhere I've only read previously in books.

The view of the town from Agila near the sunset hour

Culion has, for quite a long time, held a special fascination for me. Its history is entwined with the scourge of leprosy, being a leper colony for close to a century. I mean, how can you not become curious about a beautiful place that became home to a malady that for millenia was associated with disfigurement, paranoia and stigma?

Sailing nearer to the island of Culion, one notices either one or all of these: the image of the Christ atop a hill perhaps inspired by the Cristo Redentor in Rio de Janeiro; an eagle emblem drawn with stones on the slope of the same hill; the red-roofed church to the east; and the signage of Hotel Maya just beside the church.

Arriving at mid-afternoon, there was little traveling we can do after settling in at the hotel. But not wanting to waste the precious little hours of our short side trip to Culion, we headed to the hill for a better vantage point of the whole town. It's 330 steps up, an ascent understandably reserved by devotees and penitents for their Holy Week panatas (pledges) to complete the stations of the Cross (seems to me that ascending steep hills is a recurring theme in these parts; case in point: the 700-step ascent to Mt. Tapyas in Coron town in Busuanga).

The image of the Christ the Redeemer seems to be watching over the place as the fading light turned the town into amber. The church, the La Immaculada Concepcion better known as the Culion Cathedral, with its back to the sea and the Coron island, is hard to miss. Closer to the pier, there seems to be a stilt village which seemed strange at first considering the availability of housing space inland. Later, we will find out that this was due to the preference of some pescadores (fishermen) to live closer to their fishing boats.

Christ the Redeemer image watching over the town night and day

It was past 8pm when we descended the hill, enamored by the quiet, awed by the inky blackness that enveloped the land, and held enraptured by the night sky. It was good that we arranged for dinner at Hotel Maya as we would be hard-pressed to find an eating place open at that hour. After the meal, we found the stifling heat and lack of sea breeze an alibi to go out to the back where the church was located while waiting for the hotel's generator to come on at 11:30pm.

Hotel Maya from the roadside

When we visited, power distribution was on a rotating basis with our part of town getting its share of four hours of electricity from 4 to 8pm. But such inconvenience takes a backseat to the nighttime entertainment -- a sky unpolluted by light and crammed with stars. Lucky us, we chanced upon a moonless, cloudless night. The La Immaculada Concepcion church, already beautiful under the sun becomes a sight to behold under this celestial panorama.

The parola appears to be a nighttime "moon-dial" against a starry backdrop

The parola (lighthouse) and canons at the back of the church seemed like some sort of cosmic Stonehenge in this star-filled backdrop. While we took turns shooting and reveling in the nighttime scenery, we catch up with the town's latest news with Toto, the hotel's night shift staff. Coming back to our room facing the sea and Coron island, we continue to be enthralled by the stars, almost wistful when the generator came on at the appointed time, the illumination obscuring some of the stars.

The frontage of Hotel Maya looks out to the sea and the island of Coron

Info: Originally established as a teaching hotel through the Ateneo-Loyola Hostel Project, Hotel Maya is located right beside the La Immaculada Concepcion church and a few steps from the general hospital. From the veranda, one can see the sea and Coron island in the distance. There are eight rooms available, two for families and big groups, another one with air conditioning, the rest are fan rooms with double beds. Current rates as of this writing: P1,100 (roughly US$25) for fan rooms and P1,300 (about US$27) for A/C room. The hotel has its own generator unit; generator sked is from 11:30pm to 5:30am. Hotel Maya also has solar panels and inverters for lights and charging small devices such as mobile phones when there's no AC power. The hotel has a dining cum bar area; meals available from P125 up. To inquire/reserve, call 0921 3004004

Lone A/C room at Hotel Maya

Getting to Culion: At the moment, two 32-passenger boats, Barbara and Olympia, alternate in plying the Coron-Culion/Culion-Coron route daily. Terminal fee is P20 (US$ 50 cents) payable at the pier; fare payable onboard is P180 (around US$5-6) one way. Boat leaves Coron at around 1-1:30pm, Culion at 7:30-8am but to get a seat, go to the pier about two hours before the scheduled departure time and have your name included in the list.

Return to Coron: A Liveaboard Kind of Day

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 12 May 2013 16:01:00 +0000

Grand entrance to Kayangan

I've seen and marveled at these karsts before, floating on an emerald sea that even a stormy day in 2007 cannot obscure. Fastforward six years later, these towering limestone behemoths still awe me. I've seen the karsts of Halong Bay in Vietnam while riding a junk some years back and biases aside, while I find the Halong limestone formations as impressive, the sea here in Coron and elsewhere in Palawan is so much clearer, so much so that from a plane, one can see all the way to the relative shallows, the darker hues hinting at their varying depths.

Just one mind-boggling fact: of the country's 7,107 islands, 1,780 can be found in Palawan while some 50 of these islets are in Coron. Surrounded by so much water, it is almost impossible to visit without so much getting into the water or at the very least, drink in the wonderful scenery and get your feet wet, literally.

Parking -- It's more fun in the Philippines

Going around town, we've noticed not a few shops and tricycles advertising rock-bottom-priced island-hop and diving tour group packages. Ah, that must explain the number of foreign visitors in our lodge and the town's shops. Even as repeat visitors, it's hard to be blase about the place, difficult to just go through the motions and not be awed anew, no matter if we were scheduled to go on yet another "standard" island-hop tour.

First stop: Kayangan. We started a bit late by our standards (photographers normally wake up ahead of the sunrise but on this occasion, I've allowed myself some slack), a little past 9am, waiting for two other passengers who canceled at the last minute. That means we had the boat to ourselves which is not a bad idea, sort of like being on a liveaboard even for just a day. Our first stop is at Kayangan lake. We arrived early enough, ahead of the crowds. There's a reason why this is the first stop in the itinerary; our guide tells us that the hike up the cliff to the familiar vantage point by the cave and the descent to the lake on the other side can be demanding for some guests. Putting it first means "fresher legs" can take the hike and guests can still enjoy the dip.

The wooden walkway was different nay better from before -- smoother but at the same time less slippery, with seating and backrests even for those not inclined to swim. There were about two dozen guests already there, enjoying the clean refreshment this early in the trip, some marveling at the clear-as-crystal water, others perhaps wiping away the sleepiness or inebriation of the day before.

Beautiful karsts

Next stop: Banul. The standard tour allows for an average of 40 minutes to an hour per stop. By the time we left Kayangan past 10am, the entrance to the lagoon was clogged with boats and tourists eager to test their legs on the steep incline for a chance to swim in the lake. We decided to stay ahead of the crowds and went to Banul by 11 for an early lunch, docking near one of the dining cottages that abut the water.

Lunch stopover at Banul

The menu was simple but inspired -- fresh fish grilled onboard (courtesy of our multi-tasking boatman), inihaw na baboy (grilled pork), lato (seaweed), talong with sibuyas at kamatis (grilled eggplant with onions and tomatoes), and steamed alimasag (crabs) washed down with ice-cold Coke. This kind of fare makes kamayan (eating by hand) de rigeur, the better to get to the meat of the crabs and savor the sweetish taste only freshly-caught seafood can offer. To stave off the lunch-induced sleepiness and hotness of midday, I take a dip while our boatman and guide dozed off.

Twin Peaks

Mini-stops: Twin Peaks, CYC beach and Balinsasayaw. Post-lunch, we head off to Twin Peaks, a limestone formation with twin "peaks" standing by its lonesome in a calm sea. A short sail away, we go to CYC beach found on an island fringed by mangroves and a white sand beach. The tide was peaking when we visited but walking on the small stretch of exposed shore, the fine white sand felt cool to the feet. Made us think it would be a good idea to bring tent and provisions and camp here for the night, perhaps see the mangroves at low tide and enjoy the island sans the boatloads of tourists. Maybe next time.

Venturing close to the private resort of Balinsasayaw, we dock at a floating station on top of a reef awash with marine life. While our guide and my travel buddy snorkeled the shallows, I surveyed the scenery and observed the fishes through the opening at the floor of the raft. The papag (bamboo seats) could serve either as a good place to nap or eat. Before long, the tourists we left behind in Kayangan and Banul caught up with us, the tranquility broken by the boisterous shrieks of guests excited to launch into the water.

Afloat at sea near Balinsasayaw

Epilogue -- cooling down at Twin Lagoons. The final stop is at the Twin Lagoon. At past 3pm, it is crowded by boats and visitors like a replay of the scene in Kayangan first thing in the morning. There are two lagoons linked by a passageway submerged during high tide. The inner lagoon is a sight to see -- deep water that goes down to over 20 meters, sheltered and enclosed by towering cliffs dotted by greens and reds (flame trees in full bloom at this time of the year). Paddling at mid-afternoon, the water is cool in most places but warm where the sunlight shines through, a soothing conclusion to a day of island-hopping before heading back to town.

Postscript. I know that it's standard for tour operators to promote 3-day, 2-night trips but I think this is nowhere enough to barely scratch the surface especially for first-time visitors. It's customary for the day trips to conclude at 4pm or earlier while there is still light but it feels bitin (short). Understandably, extensions will cost extra. But I've experienced coming home from Banul on one occasion and Calauit on another day well after dark and both experiences were just swell. Anyway, coming back early to the town means having the time to wash off the saltwater from our swimming gear and pack our stuff as we are heading to Culion the next day.

Info: Coron Ecolodge can arrange tours for the hotel's guests. For more info/to book, visit www.coronecolodge.com or call 0906 4556090 (Globe) or 0919 2048824 (Smart)

Getting to Coron: Turboprop 72-seater planes of Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) and Airphil (www.flypalexpress.com) ply the Manila-Busuanga route; travel time: less than one hour; fare varies according to airline and proximity of booking to travel date. Alternatively, 2Go ferries (formerly WG&A Superferry) will ply the Manila-Puerto Princesa-Coron route, travel time: approximately 18 hours; promo fare is P1,200 (around US$27-30); visit travel.2go.com.ph

Next on Lagal[og]: Culion: Like Seeing the Starry Skies with a New Set of Eyes

Coron Revisited: Of Delayed Flights, Quiet Digs and A 700-Step Ascent for Sunset

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 05 May 2013 12:31:00 +0000

Sunset at Mt. Tapyas

For the first time in a long time, we'll be flying at midday, on a Monday yet. That meant I had to run after taxis, competing with late office workers and had to settle for a contracted private vehicle moonlighting as a taxi. The queues at T3 were long. We tried checking-in via the Cebu Pacific computerized kiosks but found out that their turbo props were not included in the scheme. The air conditioning in all areas of the terminal seemed non-existent. We decided to use the remaining 15 minutes of waiting time prior to departure to have a quick meal which proved a smart decision as the perennial runway congestion resulted in a succession of delays.

It would be almost another two hours before we can take off aboard a Cebu Pacific plane that shared the airport's tropical clime. Gaining altitude with the cabin remaining hot, the announcement of cold bottled water available for sale onboard seemed like a timely sales pitch rather than comforting news to hot and sweaty passengers. Ahhh, traveling can really be more fun in the Philippines.

Admiring the lay of the land past the view decks

It was past four when we landed in Busuanga, late for a scheduled city tour sponsored by our host, Coron Ecolodge. Pity the micro-vacationer, he with the the 3-days, 2-nights arrangement as the delay has already abbreviated an already short trip. Makes me wonder how many tourists feel short-changed as the Manila airport runway is simply not adequate to handle the increasing traffic and the delays have a domino effect on the rest of the day's flights.

700 steps up to sundown. After dropping off our bags at the Coron Ecolodge, we headed off to Mt. Tapyas for a glimpse of the sunset. The good weather was at least holding. My first time in Coron, way back in 2007 for a magazine assignment, was rainy. It would be nice to see the town and adjoining islands glowing in the vestiges of a warm afternoon for a change. Between the ground and a marvelous sunset panorama is a 700 step flight of stairs -- welcome exercise for the afternoon or a test of aging knees depending on your state of health and disposition.

A different look when night falls

Going past the view decks, we evade the noisy crowds to contemplate on a scenery too beautiful for words, too majestic for just a cursory 10-minute admiration. Staying well after darkness fell and all the crowds dissipated, the blue-pink-yellow hues were displaced by the twinkling of innumerable stars -- a bigger than life planetarium enhanced by a clear, cloudless, ink-black sky.

Facade of the two-storey Coron Ecolodge

Ecolodging. After a filling, cheap and delicious dinner at Lolo Nonoy's, we came back to the Coron Ecolodge where we are staying for the rest of our time in Coron. I would like to think that its location, a street away from the main road and consequently, away from noisy establishments, is its strongest asset. Bereft of noise for most of the day and all night save for the occasional politico recorida as it was the height of the campaign for the upcoming elections, I guess you can't pay enough for some peace and quiet.

No-frills, clean digs at Ecolodge

The rooms are basic but clean. The air conditioner is new, the bed with the pillows, blankets and sheets comfy enough. In the toilet and bath, the water heater is also relatively new. Running water can be scarce especially at day's end when the guests return en masse from their tours and decide to shower at the same time. The lobby-cum-dining area is light and airy, thanks to floor to ceiling openings. The Wi-fi signal is steady and reliable in the dining area. While we weren't able to sample the meals apart from the breakfast buffet (which is simple but good), we heard grumbles from other guests that the service can be faster. However, the staff members are very friendly and helpful without being overzealous -- definitely a strong asset.

Information: Coron Ecolodge is located at Calle Real, Brgy. Poblacion 2. A double standard bedroom with hot and cold shower, cable TV, free wi-fi (lobby only) and standby power costs P1,890 per night. For more info/to book, visit www.coronecolodge.com or call 0906 4556090 (Globe) or 0919 2048824 (Smart)

Next on Lagal[og]:
Return to Coron: A Liveaboard Kind of Day

Tagaytay: Havin' a Healthy Weekend Getaway at Summit Ridge

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:41:00 +0000

The view of the Taal Lake and caldera from the balcony of Summit Ridge

The mercury peaked at 36.6 Celsius last week. After a bout of asthma following cleaning chores, the time was ripe for an out-of-town trip. I was planning something simple really but circumstances have a way of setting up things when you least expect it.

So at the invitation of Summit Ridge, off to Tagaytay we went to binge a bit (what weekend getaway is without some feasting?) but also to have some sort of a healthy tripping. Well, bingeing on fresh air is rewarding enough for me.

It's our second trip to Summit Ridge and after two years, the gardens front and back have grown. The view of Taal volcano from the balcony is something I'll never tire of. Oh, the theme of our getaway is focused on health -- something coming from left-field as far as Tagaytay weekends are concerned. The food angle is there, complemented by physical activity (perchance to create some sort of caloric deficit, perchance to work up one's appetite).

Summit Ridge facade at dusk

Badminton before merienda. The floor matting seems to be newer and there are rackets and shuttlecocks for rent so there's no need to bring your gear. Not a bad way to burn some calories before eating a slice or two of that glorious caramel choco cake. Located in the basement across the adjoining carpark, the multi-function court is a bit confusing to go to and adding signages certainly wouldn't harm at all.

Limbering up before dinner. I've taken yoga classes before so the class comes as a welcome activity. Open to all comers in all shapes and fitness levels, the session mixes up easy-to-follow yoga and Pilates moves, with meditation to conclude the hour-long activity.

Towels are available for those without mats. However, it may not suffice for some moves (and for taller participants) as the carpet can become slippery. I also wished the session was conducted on wooden flooring as moving about and staying close to the carpeted floor tend to release dust and allergens.

Zumba after breakfast. The first meal of the day is a buffet so you can say this is a much-welcomed activity. For a change of environment, the Zumba sessions are held at the Promenade of the adjacent Robinsons Mall (works for those not averse to public display of dancing maladroitness). The first portions were fairly easy. Halfway through though, the bootyshaking got a bit too much for comfort so off to the gym I went.

The gym is what I remembered it from before -- some treadmills and elliptical trainers, a rack of relatively light dumbbells and a station each for pulldowns, low rows, chest press, leg curls, leg extensions and sit-ups. Nothing fancy but fairly functional for the weekend warrior.

Rosemary Chicken -- one of the Whole Foods menu items on offer for summer

Focus on whole food. For those wanting to wean on Tagaytay's traditional cholesterol-laden favorites, Bulalo (Bone Marrow Soup) and Crispy Pata (Deep-fried pig knuckles), Classic Cuisine Restaurant (C2 in short) in Summit Ridge offers an interesting proposition -- healthy, whole foods that are not short on taste. Some of the items in the menu stood out like Rosemary Chicken and Seared Mahi-mahi Fillet with Julienne of Bell Peppers and Pineapple Compote (P500 for lunch fare, P550 for dinner). The lunch and dinner fare comes with soup and vegetables (fresh as can only be expected in the locality). The healthful angle lies in the sourcing (freshest as possible) and preparation (nothing fried and decidedly un-fancy cooking and seasoning to bring out the wholesome goodness and flavors). The healthy fare is available for the summer months (though I wish it was part of the regular menu). More on this in www.happyfoodies.com.

And oh, there were also interesting non-health-oriented fare that bears mentioning like the Unlimited Coffee and Cakes from 10am to 8pm at just P199 and the Summer Fiesta Buffets every Saturday from April to May, 10am to 4pm, at P499. For the former, the Carrot Cake lavished with cream cheese is worth a mention and a second, maybe third helping. For the latter, the Filipino foods on offer are worth the visit and the price, even a nice sampling of Pinoy fare for foreign and balikbayan guests.

Un-sweetened surprise - a flavorful cup of latte

Some Java Lovin'. Since C2 is operated by the Cravings Group, we were treated to an insightful coffee appreciation session. I've always been a java man even through bouts of hyperacidity and acid reflux so this interactive session on coffee preparation and tasting seems to be tailor-made for me. It was interesting to learn how different brewing methods of the same beans can bring out different flavors. And that unsweetened cup of latte as well as the espresso made from El Salvador and Columbia coffee beans were just absolutely fantastic.

Movies after dark

Movie nightcap. The west-facing garden at the back of the hotel makes for a great setting for weddings and now, movies after dinner ala drive-in theater sans the automobile. "Life of Pi" was playing that Saturday with truffles as an added attraction (I guess everyone was too full to even taste one). If it wasn't my turn to get a foot spa at SeriAsia, this one would be a nice way to cap the night.

Room with a (great) view. And what a view of Taal it is -- a hazy blue painting in the morning hours, a glowing expanse at sunset right from the balcony. It's such a joy to throw the drapes and curtains wide open all day (Tip: the best views are from the 7th to 9th floors so if you love the view, book your rooms on the higher floors). The couch by the floor-to-ceiling window is a welcome reading/working nook. The bed, sheets and pillows are comfy-cozy. We came at a time of peak occupancy so wi-fi was spotty even past midnight. (Globe signal is also spotty in these parts so lugging your Smart/Sun SIM may be a good idea).

Summi, the Summit Ridge bear, gets ready for bed

While Manila lay simmering in 35ºC+ temperatures, Tagaytay stayed within the 30-33ºC range during the daytime with intermittent breezes blowing in. Just a difference of a couple of degrees you might say. But out here, what a difference a few degrees, an elevation of 2,000 feet and staying at the Ridge make.

For more info, visit www.summitridgehotel.com or call +632 240-6888 (landline); +63 922 852-6800 (mobile)

Pictures Featured: Cocoon Hotel for Working Mom Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 14:25:00 +0000

Working Mom Magazine, April 2013 Issue

Some of the images I shot for Cocoon Boutique Hotel a few weeks ago are featured in the April 2013 issue of Working Mom Magazine of ABS-CBN Publishing.

Many, many thanks to Cocoon Hotel's Annie Convocar for the trust and confidence, and Yahweh for the blessings. It was nice to work with such a cooperative and professional staff as well as sample the delicious offerings of the hotel's Abuela Coffee Shop.

SG Changi Airport: Chasing a Thousand Butterflies and Finding Refreshing Greens in the Middle of Busy-ness

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:01:00 +0000

One of the denizens of the Butterfly Garden at Changi's Terminal 3

"I can live here!"

That exclamation summarized my sentiments about Changi, one that made Samantha Lee, the airport's ever-smiling communications manager, laugh aloud. And that statement is warranted -- the airport seemed to me like a microcosm of Singapore itself in a lot of ways.

Firstly, there's always some sort of expansion going on. Last time I was here which was ages ago, Terminal 2 looked nothing like the sleek incarnation it has become and Terminal 3 which handles the behemoth A380s was most likely not even in the plans. Now, they're set to build Terminal 4 to handle even more flyers. Certainly a lot like Singapore which keeps building and reinventing itself (saw the giant stadium with retractable roof in mid-construction on our way from Geylang to Chinatown, among other developments).

T1's Cactus Garden refreshes tired eyes

Not-so-secret gardens. Secondly, a friend calls SG one big garden and in that context, I see Changi as its mini-me as all three terminals have their share of greenery, forming what is called the Garden Trail @ Changi. The Cactus Garden in T1 is al fresco, a virtual oasis after hours of breathing recycled cabin air. I dig succulents and it's remarkable to find a wide variety here including the stately prickly pears.

Having only two hours to tour, there was not enough time to visit the Fern and Sunflower Gardens at T2 and Heliconia Garden in T1. But T2's Orchid Garden impresses, bedecked with epiphytes including a dendrobium named after the airport itself and a koi pond.

Chasing a thousand butterflies before chasing your flight

Terminal 3 also has a fern garden but we headed to another we can't afford to miss: the Butterfly Garden. Easily Changi's most frequented green spot, it's the only one in the world that is located in an airport. There's something therapeutic about being surrounded by a thousand butterflies. Personally, I also find this metaphorical in a sense that as travelers, aren't we like butterflies flitting from one place to another?

Cooling off before taking off at the roof deck pool in T1

Cool off before you take-off. If you got hours to spare before boarding, T1 has a gym and get this, a rooftop Balinese-themed swimming pool, overlooking the parked planes. Samantha's tip: don't check-in your swimsuit or workout clothes as you can either take a dip or sweat it out before you board. Definitely something to keep in mind next time I visit. (Location: Level 3 near the transit hotel at the departure transit lounge, east. Pool use is $13.91 which includes use of jacuzzi, shower facilities, and a complimentary non-alcoholic drink. Pool and pool area open daily from 7am - 11pm)

Just downstairs from the roof deck, there's a Movie Theater where you can bring in your trolley while watching HBO or a feature film (Ridley Scott's "Prometheus" was playing when we dropped by). Only thing missing was a popcorn machine. Hmm, but the nearby lounge with a nap area looked very inviting, beckoning sleepy tourists to catch a few hours of shut-eye. The only danger here is oversleeping and missing your flight LOL. (Transit hotels in all three terminals located near the departure transit lounges, all on level 3. Rates vary. Click this link for updated fees.)

You say shop, I say nap -- nap rooms in Changi

Shop and save. Now, if only shopping is in my blood, Changi would be a perfect stop. The figures stack up -- 330 retail shops spread across three terminals. And the 7% discount on the sales tax sounds like a great idea as you can actually save making your purchases here instead of downtown. Little wonder even non-flying locals join the airport crowd as Changi is a destination in itself, both for shopping and recreation. Maybe sort of like experiencing Singapore even without leaving the airport.

Eats. And more eats. With 120 food and drink outlets, choices are aplenty. By serendipity, we decided not to check in at immigration early and chose to eat lunch at Waraku. Their pasta dishes are worth mentioning. We were rewarded with an incredible serving of Aglio e Olio so much so that I ordered another plate.

Ever-changing Kinetic Display mesmerizes

Notables. The Kinetic Display at the waiting area of T1 is an engineering marvel in itself, a mesmerizing display of motorized, suspended metal globs shaped like water drops constantly morphing into thousands of intriguing shapes. Samantha says you can stay for hours and not see the same shape recreated. I guess your imagination is the limit for describing the shapes very much like lying under a cloudy sky and seeing faces, animals, things.

For those with a lot of hours to spare, say, five or so, consider taking the free Singapore tour. The Heritage Tour take guests through a tour of the city's highlights (Marina Bay Sands, Esplanade, City Flyer, Gardens by the Bay) while the City Lights Tour gives visitors a glimpse of the city glowing post sunset. (Schedules: Heritage Tour (9-11am, 11:30am-1:30pm, 2:30-4:30pm, 4-6pm daily; first-come. first-served basis • City Lights Tour 6:30-8:30pm daily)

Trash bins are easy to spot and understand even for non-English speakers

To sum it up, I think you can spend days here without getting bored. I'm pretty sure Viktor Navorski, Tom Hank's character in the movie, "The Terminal," will agree.

All three terminals are linked by SkyTrain; operating hours: 5:30am to 2:30am daily • As it is easy to get lost in this expansive airport, best to consult the interactive map here (Flash player needed)

Sony Singapore Digital Workshops: Your Backpack Photographers Featured

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 07 Apr 2013 12:22:00 +0000

Lagal[og] conducting his segment on Northern Exposure at the Arts House in SG

It's not everyday that you get invited to talk to an international audience, much less share the stage with luminaries such as NatGeo photographer, Mike Yamashita, and renowned portraitist, Manny Librodo. But Sony SG made that possible two weekends ago as your backpack photographers, I and my BP co-facilitator, Ferdz Decena, got invited to talk for the Sony Singapore Digital Workshops. The company is as inspiring as the venue, the Arts House, which was the former House of Parliament turned into a museum and art events venue. The weather was a wee bit moody, turning inclement during the afternoons, but that didn't dampen our enthusiasm to acquaint our participants with our ideas on travel shooting and introducing them to the idea of visiting Batanes.

While it wasn't a full house (maybe, the long weekend kept people out of the city), talking about photography and the Philippines came naturally over the course of the two sessions. The time in SG also gave us the opportunity to test the Sony DSLTs on hand -- the Alpha A77 and the full-frame flagship, A99. Lugging three camera bodies, five lenses along with a Macbook and iPad was no joke but it was well worth it.

Test shot for Sony A99, indoors, handheld, 1/160, f/2.8, 40mm, jpeg

I was particularly impressed with the A99's performance. Paired with the 85mm, F/1.4 Carl Zeiss lens, the image quality is crisp, the bokeh very, very pleasing, the colors natural-looking. Even test-shooting indoors, the images are sharp, with noise levels wonderfully kept at minimum. While the time we had the cameras was too short for me to adapt to the different controls and interface, I was surprised I didn't have to struggle adapting to the Electronic View Finder. Many thanks to Arvin Orsua, the affable Filipino who heads the Communications Department: Training and Digital Workshops and his wonderful staff for making all these possible. It's a privilege and blessing from Yahweh to be able to share our ideas and meet people who are enthusiastic about the topics at hand. Having people come up to the podium to ask questions after the sessions is also gratifying, making all our efforts worth it.

Souvenir shot at the entrance of the Arts House, taken with the impressive Sony Alpha A99

If I may add, Sony's efforts in the region, particularly in Singapore, are commendable. There are activities year-round to engage enthusiasts and newbies alike (the recent Singapore Flyer Outing and Vietnam Photography Adventure are the ones I find most interesting). Should you find yourself in Singapore, do visit the Sony Digital Workshops site to learn more of what's in store.

Singapore for the Holy Week: In Awe of Supertrees, Marina Bay Sands and other curiosities that light up the Night Sky

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 15:16:00 +0000

Curvy lines exaggerated by the ultrawide perspective

It took a while to gather momentum but our trip to Singapore finally pushed through last Good Friday through the kind auspices of Sony SG and Arvin Orsua, the amiable Filipino head of the company's Customer Communications Department. It took me all of 14 years to go back here in SG and it was a heady experience to conduct talks on photography to an international audience and within the hallowed halls of the Arts House, formerly the House of Parliament, aptly located right along Parliament Road. It's a blessing to be there and the timing couldn't be more providential -- the Holy Week leading up to Easter. Thank YHWH for the blessings.

It was an enjoyable trip even if we had to work for the most part of the day and often, the latter part of the evenings, refining and tweaking our presentation deck. This left the evenings just about our only free time for the first few days, to see the nighttime attractions (and it's not the ones in Geylang though we did stay there for half of our trip), exploring Little India one night, eating in Chinatown the next, then hieing off to Marina Bay Sands when the opportunity arose with our good friend and fellow avid backpacker, Jasper, who live and work in SG. It was also fun to commute and observe local life, alternatively taking the MRT, double-decker buses and cabs (including the taxi Benzes on a few occasions).

What else but the Marina Bay Sands at dusk

Now, I've seen pictures of Marina Bay Sands many times but seeing it up close is something else. I'm not a high-stakes, high-roller kind of guy so the casino floor has little appeal to me though looking at the multi-level casino was staggering to say the least -- like seeing Building A of SM Megamall filled with gambling tables and one-armed bandits. While we weren't able to go up to survey the Singapore skyline from way up the top floor, we were able to admire the structure from the outside, and see the mall area. Going outside, the Helix Bridge mesmerizes along with the Lotus Museum, a fine composition of glass and steel near the bay. Mind-boggling prime pieces of architecture, really.

The beautiful Lotus Museum really has lotus plants right outside

There are a lot of things to catch your eyes gazing at the Singapore nightscape, the ubiquitous Merlion and the impossible-to-miss giant Singapore Flyer included, but none fascinated me as much as the Gardens by the Bay Supertrees. Interesting to note that in a lush and verdant garden city, why even bother building structures that mimic trees? Well, trust Singaporeans to meld architecture with nature, the man-made with the natural.

The limited time we had kept us from visiting the other attractions such as the 1.2 hectare Flower Dome, a huge greenhouse of sorts where it's always springtime, the .8 hectare, 35 meter-tall Cloud Forest and the fascinating World of Plants. Maybe next time. But it was a sight to behold the giant supertrees, reaching up to 16 storeys and powered by solar energy. Even from afar, across the Dragonfly and Kingfisher Lakes, the trees were a sight to behold. Up close, it's bewildering to see towering concrete and steel slowly being covered by over 162,900 plants and more than 200 species of ferns, orchids, bromeliads and climbers. As a hobbyist gardener, I have an idea how much effort goes into maintaining the greens so apart from the twinkling lights, I have so much admiration for the greens as well as the gardeners who make all these possible. It would be interesting to revisit the grove a year from now and see the towers fully covered by vegetation.

Supetree Grove reflections on the Dragonfly Lake

The trees are a prime example of vertical gardening as well as microcosm of nature where the parts that make up the whole are in themselves, living, breathing specimens no less important and no less visually stimulating as the sum total. The Garden Rhapsody comes as a welcome bonus, a visual treat after night falls and as a consolation for not making it to the Skyway which closes at 8:30pm, ahead of the reprise of the rhapsody. Come to think of it, the night visit to the Gardens come as a consolation for trying to hike Bukit Timah but turning back because of a thunderstorm. Then again, this night-time spectacle suffices for the time being.

Marina Bay Skyline from the somewhat shaky Helix Bridge

Info on Gardens by the Bay: Cloud Forest and Flower Dome: Open from 9AM-9PM daily • Foreign guest admission fees: Adult and Seniors - S$28, Children - S$15 • OCBC Skyway at the Supertree Grove: Admission: Adult and Seniors - S$5, Child - S$3; OCBC Garden Rhapsody (light and sound show) twice daily: 7:45PM and 8:45PM • For more details, visit www.gardensbythebay.com.sg

Watching "The Lady" and remembering Burma

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 18:06:00 +0000

Worshipper at Botataung at high noon

So there I was, channel surfing on a Sunday evening while folding the laundry, filing documents and doing some packing. Oh, "The Lady" was showing on HBO. I didn't intend to keep watching but seeing some familiar places, I was mesmerized. My thoughts drifted back to four years ago, on a solo backpacking trip to Myanmar. I couldn't remember exactly what made me choose Burma among other Southeast Asian destinations. It sure wasn't the cost as it wasn't cheap at all (Laos and Cambodia could've been far, far cheaper). Maybe, it was a fascination with unplugging and disappearing for a week (those times, foreigners weren't allowed to use mobile phones and there weren't many places to even just send an email unlike now) to escape the stress of the office, an overbearing boss and a dead-end job. It was like spending a blackhole vacation way before the term became popular.

Praying among Buddhas in Shwedagon

As Michelle Yeoh went through the emotions of portraying Aung San Suu Kyi, I vividly remember going through the airport manned by the stiff-necked staff in khaki uniforms, all-business, unsmiling, thrifty with words. Coming out of the airport, I was greeted by the stifling, dry heat; of Yangon traffic dominated by boxed-type Nissans from the eighties and standing-room only, right-hand drive buses, of temples sharing the skyline. Going through a round of pagodas in the city, I was befriended by a monk who intimated in whispers that the Lady recently paid the compound a visit. Those days, it was difficult to openly talk to anyone about her, never knowing who you maybe talking to, but this monk did, and even gave me a glimpse of life in the temple compound. We talked at length about things, including the government's refusal to accept foreign aid in the wake of a cyclone that took a big toll on the countryside. The hush-hush conversations were perhaps, an added thrill, giving the trip an element of secrecy and danger.

My friend in Shwezigon, Koko

Heading to Bagan on the heels of the water festival, I made a short stop in Mandalay where I befriended a motorcycle driver who not only ate breakfast with me but also made a stopover at the beautiful Maha Muni temple for the sunrise, and helped me get on the right bus to Bagan (as there were no English signages whatsover). To save money, I stayed in a small house converted into an inn in Old Bagan. The language barrier became readily apparent when I took a rental van at 4am by mistake and found myself in Mt. Poppa. The side trip cost me a chunk of whatever money I had, worried that I have only $200 left -- one $100 bill even had a small blot which is a no-no among most money changers (true enough, the staff at the airport refused it when I tried paying for my terminal fee). But the mountain may have called out to me and it was quite an experience seeing the plains from such a vantage point early in the morning as well as observe everyday life.

I also remember going to Shwezigon Paya and befriending Koko, a seller who helped me out when I was being harassed by the other temple sellers into buying their wares. He told me to come back the next day at a certain time so I can shoot the alley better (and it was a most helpful advice). My best friend, Ferdz, went to the same temple about two years later and it was amazing that he can still remember me.

The skyline of Yangon then as seen from Shwedagon

I didn't do the usual temple hop in Bagan but focused more into meeting the locals. While I had my share of some trying to pull a fast one (a lazy cart driver who tried selling me crystals in Bagan or later on, a monk who offered to show me the "mystery" of the Shwedagon stupas but later asked for 25,000 kyats), I met a people who are warm, earnest, willing to help out and only trying to earn a honest living.

Getting back to Yangon earlier than I planned, I recall being roused at midnight at a checkpoint and submitting our passports to soldiers. Other than that, I also noted with amusement how the overnight buses included a bottle of mineral water (precious in the sweltering heat), candies (literally, a sweet gesture), and toothbrush with toothpaste (very practical) with our fare. Back in Yangon, I watched the news about the riots in Thailand, a bit worried that I may get stranded in Bangkok on the way to the Philippines. But things really do have a way of falling into place and I got home in one piece.

As "The Lady" came to a conclusion, I found myself moved into writing this piece. Only God knows when I can come back (last I heard, the opening up of Myanmar to the West has sent prices soaring) but remembering the nats Koko gave me as gifts, I look back at my trip to Burma filled with a fervent wish -- that even with its imminent democratization and opening up to the world, the place wouldn't lose its old world charm. I pray that the Burmese wouldn't trade their culture and hospitality for modernity's sake, their tanaka for make-up, their long-yis for Levi's and cheroots for Marlboros. The world will be the richer for it.

Filipinas Heritage Library Re-Opens at the Ayala Museum: Now More Accessible, More in Tune with the Times

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 18 Mar 2013 17:38:00 +0000

Over 2,000 rare books digitized, made available in Flipbook form

It's really just a short walk from its old location in Nielsen Tower near the old stock exchange building along Ayala Avenue but I can only imagine the herculean task undertaken by the Filipinas Heritage Library staff to move to the Ayala Museum near Greenbelt 5 along Makati Avenue.

In a lively chitchat with senior director for arts and culture of Ayala Foundation, Mariles Gustilo, and museum manager, Suzanne Yupangco, we learned it took all of five months to complete the move and at the same time, make the transition to the digital world. Well, when you have over 10,000 books on Philippine history, culture, art, literature and social sciences; more than two thousand rare books from as early as 1608; over 35,000 photographs depicting Philippine life, culture and history dating back to the 15th century; and over 5,000 digitized Filipino songs from the 1900s, you take special care of your priceless valuables.

Light and airy -- a far cry from the basement of Nielsen Tower

While the physical distance seems to be miniscule, the move is especially auspicious as it marks a crossover to the mainstream, so to speak. Whereas the old location was tucked in the basement of the old airport control tower across the Manila Peninsula (where your typical mall-goer may not want the hassle of crossing over Ayala just to browse), the new location is right smack at the heart of commercial action. You can say that going to the library/museum can be a viable alternative to malling (I'm really biased as I love physical books, I am fascinated by history, and I can spend the better part of a day inside a museum) and more accessible to a generation reared on iPhones, Androids, Kindles, iPads and Macbooks.

Over 5,000 Filipino songs from the 1900s available at the listening station

I must say I'm blown away by FHL's digital endeavor, the Filipiniana Online project, which aims to digitize the library's entire collection of rare books -- over 2,000 of them. It would be a blast to sift through these in Flipbook form over the net (caveat: only the sample pages are viewable online; you still have to come over to peruse the whole book). Next to books, I love music. I would certainly drop by FHL one of these days to personally hear the first recording of "Lupang Hinirang" by Jose Mossesgeld Santiago, among other audio rarities originally on vinyl and digitized for the Himig Collection.

As a photographer, I would probably wear out my membership card in sifting through the over 35,000 images in the Retrato Collection, some dating back from the 15th century. I may have gotten a complimentary membership but honestly, I think the annual membership is well worth the P1,000 investment specially considering that it also gives one access to the museum plus one other perk: being able to bring a friend or family member to the library for free. Well, considering the mental/cultural stimulation you'll get, the price of admission, like the library's collection, is really priceless.

Information details: New address: 6F Ayala Museum, Makati Avenue cor. De La Rosa Street, Greenbelt Park; Landline: (632) 7577117 locals 21 to 36, Email: asklibrarian@filipinaslibrary.org.ph; Website: www.filipinaslibrary.org.ph

Library hours: Tuesdays - Fridays, 9AM - 6PM • Saturdays, 10AM - 7PM • Research fees: Annual membership - P1,000; Per visit - P50 (student), P100 (professionals); Other fees: Photocopying: P2 (letter), P2.25 (legal); Printing: B&W, P5 (letter), P10.00 (legal); Scanning: Contemporary, P50 (legal), P100 (letter), P300 (A4); Rare P100 (letter), P150 (legal), P350 (A4); Retrato Photo Order (VAT inclusive): Per Photo - P200, Scanning - P100, CD storage - P20; Himig Music Reproduction - P30/song, CD storage - P20; Internet access PC - P25/hour; Microfiche reading - P25; Use of electricity - P25; Wi-fi for non-members - P25

Attribution: all photos courtesy of Filipinas Heritage Library

Oggie's Corner: Sony Singapore Digital Workshops this March 29-30

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 05:56:00 +0000

It is indeed such a blessing to be in good company as I, along with my co-facilitator and good friend, Ferdz Decena of Ironwulf.net, visit the hallowed halls of Arts House in Singapore to talk about travel photography this March 29-30, thanks to Sony Singapore. To find out more details or register for the sessions, visit this link or go to www.sony.com.sg Sony has been at the forefront of photography learning globally and Sony in Singapore is no different, passionately holding sessions, talks, even outdoor workshops, to help everyone from beginners to enthusiasts take their passion and creativity to another level.

There's every reason to expect great things. Talking about travels and photography come naturally as breathing. Speaking about how Sony Digital can make a difference will be inspiring, knowing how much Sony supports the field of photography not just in terms of pouring their efforts in coming up with imaging technology but also supporting the creative side of creating images. The venue is equally inspiring as the Arts House has an interesting story in itself, it being the former House of Parliament.

Onboard Seair-Tiger Airways this February: Batanes On The Brink

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 17 Feb 2013 12:43:00 +0000

Find the lighthouse amidst the rolling terrain of Mahatao

Batanes is unlike any other place in the country, a wild smattering of islands in the north where cliffs meet the sea on pebbled shorelines and goats and cows are sent out to pasture among green hills. These islands have been described as looking more like the Scottish Highlands than the Philippines. The food is fresh not fancy and evening entertainment consists of identifying the constellations in the hevens over a cold bottle or two of San Miguel beer.
The Batanes islands -- some of which are closer to Taiwan than the Philippines -- are so remote that it's easy from Manila to forget they even exist. Direct flights to the town of Basco have made the islands reasonably accessible from the capital, but they still retain a quality of isolated other worldliness that make them feel like the land that time forgot. The province is often hit by typhoons that blow in from the east during the rainy season. In the dry season it's hot and sunny, but not as blisteringly hot as Manila or the Philippines' mainland. As the plane sweeps in to land, you get a glimpse of the drama below: waves crashing on rocks, a cow perched precariously on a cliff's edge, the runway sloping upwards towards the flanks of volcanic Mt. Iraya.

The lay of the land in Itbayat

Back in 2008, electricity was rationed because two of three power sources of Batan Island -- one of Batanes's 10 islands -- had broken down and engineers were waiting for spare parts from Canada. If one part of the town had lights in the evening, it meant another part was in darkness. These days, Batan Island has round-the-clock power supply, while Itbayat and Sabtang Islands -- the two other inhabited islands in Batanes, aside from Batan -- enjoy electricity for only 12 hours, from 6am to 12 midnight.

Bounty fresh from the sea

The homey little pension Shanedel's in Basco, the capital of Batanes in Batan Island, which used to run on one generator, giving it three hours of power, how has electricity 24 hours a day. This is progress here. There's lots of hometown pride with the way the island has developed.

Over breakfast of dried flying fish, I remember owner Dely Millan showing me three magazines where the inn has been featured; one of them had a picture of actor Richard Gomez holding a huge yellow fin tuna. I was reminded of the movie he made here with actress Dawn Zulueta, Hihintayin Kita sa Langit, which in English means I will wait for you in heaven, the first film shot in this locaiton.

It is no surprise Batanes is popular with filmmakers. While Batanes is increasingly becoming popular with tourists -- there are now three carriers operating to Batanes from Manila -- it still retains an untouched charm. Travel through the hills of Vayang, Naidi and Rakuh-A-Payaman, an area known as "Marlboro country" because of its cattle and horses and you'll know what I mean. At Valugan explore the boulder beach and ancient windmills.

If you need a local guide to go around the island, call Joaquin Cantor (+63915 5552747). Get him to take you to Loran Station, the setting that formed a dramatic backdrop for the movie Hihintayin Kita sa Langit. We were told this was where the Filipino version of Wuthering Heights was shot.

In Songsong, a barrio at the southern part of Batan Island, check out the Ivatan limestone house where actress and local celebrity Iza Calzado stayed during the filming of the movie Batanes. Well, what makes the house special now's plain and simple: Calzado made it her home during the duration of the shoot.

Awe-inspiring landscape of Tiñan in Sabtang Island

There are more stone houses to be seen at the UNESCO-nominated heritage site in Barangay Savidug and Chavayan, both on Sabtang Island, less than an hour's trip by boat from Batan.
Before the Spaniards arrived in the Philippines, the indigenous people of Batanes, the Ivatans, built their houses largely from cogon grass, designed to protect against strong winds. The Spaniards introduced large-scale use of limestone and ever since it has been used to build dwellings designed to stand up to the harsh Batanes environment. The houses may be built the traditional way, but not everything in Batanes is as it used to be. In one limestone house I caught a glimpse of a flatscreen TV; in another there was a microwave oven. Many Ivatans, it seems, are beginning to reap the benefits of flights from Manila.

Life for many Ivatans remains pretty hard. They cultivate the slopes of the province's rolling hills to produce sweet potato, yam, maize, patola (loofah or sponge gourde) and eggplant. It's enough for their own needs plus a bit more to barter for necessities. For tourists, there's not much to buy except flavorful garlic, shallots and tupak, native abaca hemp slippers that cost about P250/pair from the Chavayan Village cooperative. Vaculs, the strange headpieces worn by Ivatan women to protect themselves from the heat and the rain as they work in the fields, are made from the voyavoy palm. Vaculs cost anywhere from P400 to P700, depending on whether you buy them in Chavayan or Basco. Each vacul is handwoven and takes three days to make.

Sunset at Vayang

Tourism is making a mark. Ivatan women in Sabtang are ready with a smile to pose for photographs. and you can get items like vacul, kanayi (head dress for men) and printed Batanes shirts from souvenir stalls such as Tawsen and Wakay in Basco.

In Savidug, I met Lola Deling Servillon, 66, who had negotiated, like a seasoned lawyer, the terms of renting out her home to tourists wanting homestays in a traditional Ivatan home. The house has been with her husband's family for five generations now, and looks capable of withstanding the storms of many generations more. Lola Deling said she did not think her daughter, to whom they have bequeathed their home, would mind that she has rented out the house.

In Basco, if you have time, check out the Honesty Coffee Shop in the municipality of Ivana, reputed to serve the best palek, a strong local brew made from cane sugar.

The coffee shop earned its name because it's usually not staffed, so everyone is expected to leave money for whatever they take. Treat yourself to a cold bottle of Coke but remember to drop the exact change into a slot in the counter. It spoke volumes about the Ivatans, who still live the kind of life where everyone knows everyone and people leave their doors open for anyone to come in. If someone loses something, all he or she has to do is announce it over the community radio station and the lost item will usually find its way back to the owner.

I could believe it. On my last visit in Batanes, I went to Casa Napoli, a Basco restaurant that now stands in Brgy. Kayhuvokan. I asked a passersby for directions and not knowing where it was himself, he asked other people until he found someone who pointed us in the right direction. The man, who was walking in the opposite direction from where I was going went out of his way to take me, a lost tourist, right to Casa Napoli's doorstep.

Seeking some respite from the hot sun, I dropped my things on a table and sat down. Restaurant owner Xavier Mirabueno, a former ship engineer, was around and I got served a cold Coke Zero. Xavier's assistant sad I was not to leave Batanes without tasting their pizza. So I challenged Xavier to make me a pizza with the islands' sharp-tasting garlic and real mozarella cheese and olive oil, rare ingredients in this part of the world. He smiled and picked up the dough from a bowl, slapped it on the counter, kneaded, rolled, cut, and tossed it. The pizza, like my days in Batanes, was perfect.

Attribution: This article written by Andrea Pasion-Flores first appeared in InFlight Magazine in September 2008, updated for the February - March 2013 issue.

Binondo: The Lure of Good Food, Familiar Sights, Cheap Finds and A Trip Down Memory Lane

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:42:00 +0000

Traffic in front of the familiar Binondo church

I can still remember walking aimlessly from Dagupan to Recto, along Juan Luna to Avenida and on to the maze-like streets of Chinatown. I grew up in Tondo and for decades, my Nanay tended a puwesto (stall) in Ylaya so I am no stranger to nearby Binondo and its neighboring environs like Raon and Carriedo. Living in Makati for over a decade meant I visited less and less of the place but like an old friend, Binondo and its organized chaos remain familiar to me everytime I visit.

For a shoot assignment covering Manila some weeks back, I had the opportunity of reliving the old days. It's really remarkable how a place can change but still very familiar. The skyscape seems to be transforming alright with the sprouting of high-rise condominiums but the tangle of overhead cables and riot of signages endure to this day (a perennial problem for photographers who dream of framing the sights sans the wires).

Alfresco reading

There are even more vehicles clogging the tiny thoroughfares and yet the clippety-clop of kalesas still resound, adding color to the everyday drama I dub as "Binondo's chopsuey traffic". Ditto with sidecars (human-powered transport) and tricycles that make driving here a crazy proposition for the hot-headed driver.

There's another budget mall drawing in the bargain shoppers and hoarders (Lucky) apart from the already familiar landmark, 168. But mall-averse that I am, I am more fascinated with the small shops and sidewalk stalls that dot the streets.

Crispy, juicy Sincerity Chicken

The popular food chains may have found their way here but it would be a waste to miss out on the hole-in-the-walls and old familiars. There's Po Heng lumpia (vegetable spring roll) at the old theater along Quintin Paredes. Inimitable dumplings at Dong Bei on Yuchengco Street. Really crispy chicken at Sincerity on Nueva. Maki at Masuki along Benavidez. Fried shrimp noodles and siomai at Kim Hiong near the fire station. And of course, Polland and Eng Bee Tin ube hopia. This is just like scraping the tip of the food iceberg, so to speak as my foodie barkada can easily spend the whole day here going from one food joint to another.

In my mind, the most wonderful thing about Binondo is how it remains familiar and welcoming inspite of how much the world has changed. So what if it remains chaotic? Who cares if some of the streets reek of fresh horse piss? At least to me, Binondo remains a special place to escape to, a reminder of the past, a seemingly-enigmatic constant in a fast-changing world.

Lagalog Celebrates Nine Years: 1,414 thanks for 1,414 Posts

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:09:00 +0000

A collage of memories

I can't help but wax nostalgic everytime this site turns a year older. Sort of like having a child and watching him grow. With the way things are nowadays, having come to a ninth year milestone is certainly no mean feat. I don't know where I plucked the patience to keep at it though over time, blogging became a force of habit, an avenue to exercise my writing, practice my shooting, and tap into my creative well. Oh, there were times I wanted to quit but somehow, circumstances worked together towards making me forge on.

When I first started writing in 2004 (not really about travel but mundane stuff), the world seems a tad different. Nokia was king of the mobile phone heap (it would take another three years before the iPhone arrived).   The 4th generation iPod, the first with the iconic click wheel, boasted of a then-impressive 40Gig hard drive. The Macbook of the day, the iBook, topped out at 1.33GHz processing power and 60GB storage. The 6 megapixel Nikon D70 got introduced that year but it was expensive and at the at time, I had no inkling I will be going into photography at all. Blogging was sort of, a newfangled thing to do. Wi-fi, touchscreen phones, tablets were nowhere in the public consciousness.   Air travel wasn't as affordable then.

Fastforward nine years later, after a change of career, a religious epiphany, thousand of miles traveled, hundreds of places visited, a good number of enduring friendships made.   These days, I'm not traveling as much owing to work and other commitments but that's life. That also makes every trip special. Circumstances also give me a more mature perspective as a traveler: I travel on my own terms, not to compete with regards to seeing so-and-so number of places in my lifetime and attempting to make each trip a destination smorgasbord replication of "The Amazing Race".

I would've loved to have a much bigger reader base but on hindsight, having the readers and viewers I have now and having come as far as I have, I have come to terms with how things are. Along the way, I've met friends, made acquaintances that I treasure. From time to time, I get encouraging words from people I've only met online and in all sincerity, I admit those kept me going especially when times were tough. Only Yahweh God knows what's in store for the future so I pray that He will favor me so I can keep writing, traveling and sharing. Thank You so much Lord. Thank you friends for keeping me company. And I thank you, dear reader, for being a part of nine years of blogging.

Cocoon Boutique Hotel: A Very Bed Experience of being Cocooned

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sat, 19 Jan 2013 16:01:00 +0000

Poolside at Cocoon Hotel

I'm familiar with thread count but not really that particular. I have not outgrown my sleeping preference -- flat on the wooden floor with only a banig (grass or pandan mat) separating me from the ground. In my hikes, I've been known to sleep on rocks so you can say I can sleep practically anywhere. Every once in a while though, I welcome a bit of variety. In the case of Cocoon, it's a 180 degree turn -- from a banig to a fantastical, whimsical cocoon dreamily-concocted by a writer of one of 'em luxe magazines while crossing the threshold of lucidity. Philippine Daily Inquirer writer, Marge Enriquez, detailed it wonderfully so in her piece "400-thread count linens, pillows whose supportive core is surrounded by soft down, and a mattress with pocket springs that follow the contours of the body... the bed's antibacterial memory foam wards off dust mites that breed allergies."

Headboard and headrest details

The hotel's affable consultant, Annie Convocar, says the sleep experience has earned Cocoon a reputation for "having the softest, most comfortable bed in the Philippines." I wasn't really scheduled to sleep over when I visited as 1) I was sick the week and a half of the assignment's duration, and 2) I had a shoot plus other commitments the next day. But really, who can resist the opportunity to put the hotel's acclaim to the test? To loosely borrow the popular saying, "the proof of the resting is in the sleeping." And admittedly, I can benefit from the rest.

Wing chairs in the lobby "envelop" the guest

Well, I somehow regretted sleeping overnight since I have to shoot and leave early the next morning. The few hours to indulge in the you-have-to-lie-on-it-to-believe-it comfort of the bed is nowhere enough to soak in (sink in?) the experience. I'm normally wary of hotel beds as some can be too springy or too soft so Cocoon's pliable yet firm bed is very much welcome. Ditto the hug-worthy pillows. Pardon me for dwelling on the bed (pun intended) but the sleep experience, to me, is at the core of the hotel's existence. After all, if it doesn't live up to the name, then no amount of making up for it in the other aspects or services can suffice (on the other hand, the warmth, helpfulness and eagerness of the hotel staff really merit mentioning).

Studio room view

I know this is first and foremost a boutique hotel that prides itself for being green (hence the tag that hints at sustainable, responsible luxury) but since Marge already wrote the details at length, I won't even try and repeat them. In any case, the room that comes with the bed bears mention and scrutiny. It's not a usual thing that you'd want to go barefoot in a hotel room (I'm not a fan of carpeted floors, no matter how often they're cleaned) but the use of recycled/salvaged hardwood for the flooring actually encourages you to forego the slippers and let your feet make an acquaintance with the smooth wood. I also liked that I can open the blinds in the T&B and watch TV while doing my ablutions or taking a shower. Up on the rooftop, having breakfast by the small pool and the vertical garden of organically-grown vegetables, I appreciate the relative quiet of the location. The only drawback I can see in having such a comfortable bed and wonderful room is the temptation to keep (over)staying indoors when I can be outside exploring. A happy dilemma, if you ask me.

Cocoon Hotel is located at 61 Scouts Tobias and Rallos, Brgy. Laging Handa in Quezon City. For more details, visit www.thecocoonhotel.com, Tel. 921.2706 • Many thanks to Ms. Annie Convocar for graciously facilitating my shoot and stay weeks ago on a short notice.

Old Manila Walks Corregidor Tour: A Thought-provoking Return to the Rock

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:19:00 +0000

Catchy flyer doubles as a walking map

Was it really worth losing precious sleep on a Sunday morning to revisit a place I've already seen four times?

Why is a barracks spanning a quarter-mile named the Milelong Barracks?

Would Warplan Orange have worked better than Rainbow Five?

Was the Americans' Expansion of Good Government and Commerce a better, more convincing propaganda than the Japanese's Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere campaign?

If the Washington Treaty never came to pass, would the modernization of Corregidor spelled a difference in the sieges leading up to the second world war?

The great returnee

Who was/were the mind/s behind the Jabidah Massacre? Would we ever come close to unveiling what really happened in this lifetime?

Are the still unaccounted for tons and tons of silver coins sunk around the bay still lurking in the depths or hiding in someone's private collection?

How effective was the enticement of food, wine and women in convincing the Filipinos to lay down their arms and stop their resistance to the Japanese forces?

Did former President Jose Laurel deserve the bad rap of being labeled a "Japanese collaborator"?

What is the fine line that divides and delineates an "ally" from a "collaborator"?

These are some of the questions that stirred my consciousness in three or so hours of walking with Old Manila Walks' streetwalker-guide, Ivan Man Dy, at topside of historic Corregidor Island for his "Of Bombs, Big Guns and Lost Gold" tour. Having taken the guided day and night tours on several occasions, I was eager for a different trip this time.

Ivan at Battery Way

As a welcome departure from the regular guided tour, Ivan concentrated on the island's topside which he dubs as the "historic zone" as differentiated from the middle- and tail- sides where most of the memorials are. The walking tour starts at the oldest and tallest structure on the island, the lighthouse, passes by the Spanish Flagpole, and meanders through the Senior Officers and Bachelors Barracks, Cine Corregidor, Mile Long Barracks, Battery Way, Old Hospital (personally, the eeriest place on the island), the Pacific War Memorial before coming to an apt conclusion at the Eternal Flame Monument. The itinerary is a bit relaxed and not harried, with enough time to shoot as well as the opportunity to shoot unencumbered by the usual tranvia-loads of guests.

After lunch, I opted not to join the optional Malinta Tunnel Light and Sound Show and instead returned (pun intended) to revisit Ate Edith at the McArthur Cafe near the Lorcha Dock for some chit-chat, an ice-cold Coke and potato chips, (By the way, their tasty and relatively inexpensive food is highly-recommended) as well as shoot the breeze, enjoy the scenery and chase the many birds that roost on the trees.

The seeding program in the 50s turned the island into a lush one replete with birds like this

Roughly three generations after the war that ravaged the island, the tour helps provide a link to the past especially for the present generation to whom the war is but a chapter in the history books. Time has not only healed the island as well as old wounds but has also given us plenty to think of -- lessons from the war, yes, but also a different perspective and critical thinking that question things formerly accepted as facts. Time has given us an ability to look at motives and agendas in another light, nay, even the openness to look at propaganda materials from all three perspectives -- the Americans, the Japanese and the Philippine government, and seeing that war is not just fought with guns but with ideas to win over hearts and minds.

To join the Corregidor Walking Tour, email fun@oldmanilawalks.com or go to the SunCruises terminal at CCP Bay before 7am on Sundays. Rate: P1,750/pax exclusive of buffet lunch at Corregidor Inn and the Malinta Tunnel Light and Sound Show. Tours start this February 2013. For more details, visit www.oldmanilawalks.com or the SunCruises site, www.corregidorphilippines.com

Featured Work: Now Onboard Singapore Airlines' Silver Kris Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 08 Jan 2013 14:41:00 +0000

Iconic Manila City hall resplendent in the near-sunset hours

My image contributions to the wonderful feature "Enigmatic Manila" written by Kristine Fonacier are now featured in the January 2013 issue of Silver Kris Magazine of Singapore Airlines. To read the ebook version, please click here. To access the online feature, please click here.

Binondo favorite Sincerity Chicken • Popular Manila guide, Celdran

Adarna Eye-catchers

Eminent Binondo guide, Ivan Mandy

Looking back now, I really have no idea how I managed to take in the assignment as I was sick with fever for a week and a half (even dozing on the bus one particular afternoon coming from Timog from sheer fatigue and exhaustion), post-processing and sending images in the evening, and going to my new job on alternate days. It didn't help that it was also the height of a crime scare among my circle of friends (our friend Dom of Escape Islands was filched, to put it mildly, of his iPhone in an airconditioned bus along EDSA in broad daylight -- a scary prospect when commuting alone with full gear around the metro). This feature is something to be thankful to God for, indeed. I must say that meeting some of the nicest of people to work with (Annie Convocar of Cocoon, Chef Giney of Adarna Food and Culture, Chef Him of Nomama) was a great bonus and real pleasure.

Featured in Sygnenta 2013 Planner

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 12:17:00 +0000

My image of farmers in Laguna is featured in Syngenta's 2013 Planner. A buena mano for the year Something to be really grateful for as this site approaches its 9th year (wow, that seems like eternity in blog years).

2012 Postcards, Portraits and Memories

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 27 Dec 2012 15:56:00 +0000

Nanay Fely wearing the traditional Ivatan headwear, Vacul

I started the year on a reading binge, finishing a book every 3-4 days. I had a health issue that required resting. Ahh, reviewing this year meant coming to terms with having to strike a balance between looking for projects/earning a living and wanting to go out of town more. I have not traveled as often as I wanted but that's life. I may have not visited a lot of new places I haven't been to but the places I've revisited merited a second, even third immersion.

3-Island Batanes hopping. Batanes is a happy exception as it is my fifth time to go to this northernmost parts. With God's providence, we were able to mount our second Batanes Backpack Photography Photo Tour this year, and a three-island hop at that. The trip to Itbayat was a particularly memorable one with a tempestuous sea and a disembarkation at the other port, in Mauyen. I distinctly remembered the air nippy for the time of the year, the well-stocked sari-sari store beside Nanay Cano's homestay, and the hike to Torongan Cave.

Blue skies and wispy clouds over the Puerto Princesa Cathedral

Palawan-bound. Revisiting Puerto Princesa courtesy of a photo assignment from GoHotels made me think how bustling this capital has become. It was two days of shuttling from the location of the hotel where a new mall is being constructed to the city proper about 15 minutes on a tricycle, just enough time to see a bit of commercial attractions but missing out on much of the natural ones.

White Beach towards sunset

Boracay eats. It may sound like a writing assignment from food heaven but my return trip to Boracay while well-appreciated was like an acid reflux lab experiment. Imagine eating 5-6 heavy meals five days in a row, then shuttling to and from one eating place and all the while just eyeing White Beach. I'm grateful as it's not everyday that you get you eat at the island's nicest eating places and get paid for it. On our fifth day, a scheduled prospect canceled so I got my wish to swim even for just two hours.

Interesting installation on the Siliman University grounds in Dumaguete

Missing budbud kabog in Dumaguete. Another assignment for GoHotels took me back to Dumaguete. While it was only 1 1/2 day short, it was nonetheless nice to revisit and see how Rizal Boulevard has changed from the last time I was here. The tempurahan at the boulevard was a nice change. And while I missed out on eating budbud kabog at the palengke, eating the Silvanas at Sansrival Cakes and Pastries will suffice for the time being.

Having fun shooting macros of Imugan's interesting little denizens

Chillin' in Imugan. It's rare that my erstwhile blog circle, now good travel friends (informally called the Plurkees) get together because of our diverse backgrounds and conflicting schedules so going to the farming town of Imugan in Nueva Vizcaya for the weekend was a real treat. Venturing again to the pine forest of Salacsac and the waterfalls made for a relaxing weekend. I remember the rains that came and went and having the time of my life either reading, shooting macros of the beautiful insects that didn't mind our presence.

Alibahaban Island at sunrise

For another writing assignment, I had the rare privilege of road-tripping all the way to Quezon and island-hopping to some really interesting places -- San Andres to Alibahaban, Burgos to Borawan and Padre Burgos to Cagbalete Island. Our team were also treated to incredible hospitality. The trip to Cagbalete is very memorable to me because of a dog I've befriended that went home with us all the way from one end of the island.

The expressive eyes of a Dumagat child of Maconacon

Imagining Isabela. For Backpack Photography, we went on an ocular of Isabela thanks to SkyPasada. It was an honor to interface with the Dumagats of Maconacon and Divilacan. While we would've wanted to go all the way to Palanan (a dream destination for me for the last five or so years), we needed more time to do so especially since it was the habagat season.

The eye-catching museum at Villa Escudero

For a writing assignment for InFlight magazine, I took another road trip to Quezon, turning back the century in Villa Escudero. Curious that I've heard about this place all this time and only went this year. I remembered being sick with fever when we started the trip but got better during the overnight assignment. Credit it to the healing power of nature, I guess.

Beautiful mangrove area of Inampulugan at dusk

Still for InFlight, I was able to to revisit Guimaras and Nagarao, this time adding a few days in Inampulugan and Costa Aguada. During the previous trip to Nagarao, the sea was particularly rough so it was a relief to island hop on a very calm sea. Beautiful in a rugged sense, it is need of more upkeep though I still like its small island feel. Contrast this to the big island experience of Inampulugan.

Sunlit valley in Sagada

Befriending the dogs, sampling the eats in Sagada. We ventured back to Sagada to catch the All Saints' Day ritual of Panag-apoy. Hitches aside due to the peak season, it was an enjoyable trip punctuated by interesting dogs we've met in Yabami, the dogs we revisited at Rock Inn, the acquaintances we made during the trip, and the glorious food (Misty Lodge Cafe deserves a special mention) we had.

No overseas trip for me this 2012. That can change next year, hopefully if plans proceed as plotted out and the stars align. We'll see. In the meantime, I'm thankful to Yahweh for the travel, the delicious calories, friendships made and friendships renewed. May the good Lord bless us and keep us for the coming year.

A True Christmas Story

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Sun, 23 Dec 2012 16:32:00 +0000

No Xmas here. Christ is the real reason for the season

I pass by Lola Esther nearly everyday as I go to work or somewhere in Makati. She is one of the familiar faces down the street where I live who have made Buendia her home. I don't mean to trumpet my causes but all I can say is that I try to give what I can and when my means allow it which is why I personally know her. One time, she surprised me with a bag of fruits -- an orange, some grapes -- as a gesture of gratitude. Then a few days ago, she told me she's getting her Christmas "bonus" gift from the baranggay, an entitlement for senior citizens of the city and that she wanted to give the whole amount to me. I was stunned. I told her she ought to keep the money and use it but she wouldn't have any of it. If this is not a lesson in true generosity, I don't know what is. How could a homeless woman who sleeps out on the street be this generous to a stranger like me?

It's a reminder that Christ-mas will always be a time to celebrate the birth of the great Giver, the Christ. Yeah, I maybe living from month to month, project to project, but there's a lot of reasons to be thankful. We often hear people saying (or griping) that Christmas is just for kids. In a way, that's true because wasn't it Jesus who said that unless we become like children at heart, we wouldn't enter the kingdom of heaven (and in a parallel way, that we can remember who the real celebrant is). But then again, strip away the commercialism attached to the season and the true meaning of the season is there for all to see.

Admittedly, this year was a very challenging journey among an already challenging past couple of years. Still, it offered so many lessons in living and faith, and in living out the faith. 2013 has been a year of transition faith-wise as I've made the Holy Bible the center of my life and faith, and in believing in having a relationship with God, not pinning my hopes on religion. I'm reading the Bible from the beginning, (Genesis) and barring the apocalypse happening anytime soon, I pray I will be able to read all the way to Revelation. I've read some parts especially those that deal with eschatology (Books of Daniel, Ezekiel, Revelation) and apocryphal Gospel (Books of Luke, Mark, Matthew and John) and with all the earth changes happening, you'll have to be blind not to acknowledge that indeed, we live in very interesting times with all these earth changes.

In any case, I offer a prayer for each and every one of this site's readers. May the love of the Christ illuminate us not just in this season but in the times ahead. Maranatha!

Are All Inclusive Family Holidays the Most Cost Efficient Option?

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Tue, 18 Dec 2012 14:32:00 +0000

When considering family holidays, it can be tempting to book cheap self-catering or room only deals, available in most travel agencies or online. Before you plunge into the deep end and grab what seems like the bargain of a lifetime, consider if the cheap holiday deals available are all they seem to be.

It is essential to tally up what your family holiday could potentially cost you. A quick Google will reveal the standard prices for meals, drinks and snacks in your chosen resort. Consider the cost of breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks and add on a little extra for any unexpected expenditure.

When you’ve done the math, all inclusive family holidays may not seem as expensive. Add the cost of your self-catering holiday, to your total estimated food budget for the week. Allow for the convenience that all inclusive provides, as well as the elimination of any concern surrounding sticking to your proposed price plan.

Children are free to eat ice-cream to their hearts' content, and to make the most of a diverse programme of activities and entertainment. From kids clubs, to mini discos, evening shows and more, all inclusive resorts are known for pulling out all the stops when it comes to delivering excellent resort entertainment.

Although you will want to make the most of the time you have at your hotel, it isn’t unusual to venture away from your accommodation to explore your destination.

While embarking on excursions or self-led days out, all inclusive generally gives you the option of taking a packed lunch picnic for you and the little ones. This ensures that you’re not shelling out on top of your holiday cost for refreshments while you’re away from your hotel.

Does a stress free sojourn sound right up your street? Remove all the worry about money and book all inclusive family holidays. The aim is to kick back and relax after all.

Back to Guimaras Part 2: Visiting Inampulugan and Costa Aguada

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Fri, 14 Dec 2012 13:18:00 +0000

The western coast of Inampulugan is fringed by mangroves

When we had an alfresco lunch by the beach in Nagarao, the tide was low and the water smooth under an increasingly grey sky. By the time we left for Inampulugan, the sea was already wearing a dark shade of green and the waves were gaining white caps. What usually takes 25-30 minutes to sail took us almost an hour to navigate.

Mang Vic, a trim man in his fifties with an infectious smile that belie his stature as the island’s father figure, was patiently waiting for us at the alternate port on the northern side of Inampulugan. Five years of managing the affairs of this 137 hectare island has not slowed him down one bit, eager to welcome each new arrival like a family member. "We were worried about you,” says Manny, one of Vic’s staff. If I haven’t previously sailed in much turbulent conditions in these parts, I would also be worried.

Rustic, airy cottages by the Bamboo Beach

The choppy ride aside, our roundabout approach near the coastlines gave us a sweeping look at Inampulugan, with its vegetation-covered hills that taper off to lush mangroves, an eyecatching palette of dark and light shades of green that the somber sky could not diminish.

Traversing the island via motorized tram, the sight of so many coconut trees added to the tropical feel. We passed through the local village, population: 328 and counting, and I didn’t get the feeling of desolation I felt in Nagarao. Coming over to the southern side, the roar of the sea greeted our team as we stepped onto Bamboo Beach. We were billeted at one of the 10 beachfront cottages less than a hundred steps away from the shoreline where a patch of fair sand overlooks the boulder breakwater. The cottage, like the other structures, is built from bamboo, wood and grass like an organic tapestry that blends with the bamboo thickets growing profusely around the resort. Power comes on twice a day, from 11:30am to 1:30pm and 5:30pm to 6:30am, but I didn’t really mind. It was breezy from where I sit on the porch. Our cottage even had an air conditioner but we opted to go au naturel, letting the sea breezes flow freely through the big windows.

Shooting on the rocky fringes of the beach on our first afternoon, I got caught in two squalls that came and went with little warning. Such was the fickleness of the weather but standing there on the rocks being pounded by the waves and soaked by the downpour, it was a rather edifying finding myself immersed the experience instead of merely being a spectator of the forces of nature at work.

Waking up early the next day, the weather didn’t look promising but our team pressed on, spending the early part of the morning kibitzing with the villagers with Mang Vic. The local community, three generations of workers who settled, married and took root here, is self-reliant, thanks to the bounty of the island. While the waters abound with fishes, the bigger industry is in coconut. At its peak, the village men was churning out 30 tons of copra every month. Aside from weaving bags from grass, the women make organic soap from coconut. Used in the resort, the soap has found a steady market among Korean guests who have taken a liking to the natural product.

Natural tree formation in the forest resembles a Tiki

Over one of our meals, I was enamored by the prospect of hiking up the hills to the viewdeck, the highest point of the island for a panoramic view of the nearby land masses. But the constant rains meant slippery trails better reserved for hiking come summer. The farthest we ventured was a trip to the mangrove areas where decades-old trees can be found. A turtle pond lies adjacent to it where Mang Vic displayed his magic, summoning two of the Hawksbill Turtles as if by will to the surface. Either he’s the turtle-whisperer or the turtles have become accustomed to five years of seeing him. Nearer to the village, we had a cursory look at the Pill Box, the remnants of the Japanese military armory during the last world war.

On our second afternoon on the island, I was tempted to kayak within the confines of the breakwater. Dissuaded by the big waves, I settled for horsing around, literally, on the beach, riding one of the island’s four horses. The weather fouled up again by late afternoon. Passing by the beach during the bout of wind and rain, the towering bamboos sway and creak as if singing, defiant of the constant gusts.

After spending a lackadaisical sunset at the mangrove areas, we headed back to the Coconut Pavilion for dinner. The spacious area could easily host over two hundred guests but apart from a small group of missionaries from Iloilo, we had the place to ourselves. The lone TV in all of the resort blares its dose of sensational news and tepid telenovelas but we were more interested in enjoying our meals (we even had a taste of the quintessential Guimarasnon dish, Binakol – chicken simmered in coco water right inside the coconut husk and slow-cooked over hot coals), enjoying a serving or two of the wonderful homemade coconut ice cream and sharing banter over brewed coffee.

Meet John Lloyd Cruz

Isn’t it lonely staying on the island, I asked Mang Vic. His quick answer: “not when you have the whole village as your family”. I guess having a bigger island and more people to share it with is less conducive to developing homesickness. The more regaling stories he shared are the most elusive. Mang Vic tells us of old trees in the primary forests so thick, it takes 10 men to form a circle around them. Deep in the vegetation about an hour hike up, wild deer and monkeys still roam and wild birds roost in the hardwood trees. But with the monsoon making the trail treacherous, the path to the forest is off-limits for the time being. Mang Vic, who has spent five years here, has been to all parts of the island many times over. As if teasing, he isn’t saying much apart from describing the highest points of the island as breathtakingly-beautiful – both an enticement and invitation for us to come back, hopefully soon.

The temperamental weather continued the next day when we set out for San Isidro wharf on the Guimaras mainland. In lieu of an island-hop, we can only get a glimpse of Us-Usan Island west of Inampulugan, cajoling us to make a brief stop with its pocket of white sand beach on one end and a long stretch of sloping terrain of inland forest. Deserted save for a single family living there, it’s one of the stops in the island hop tour in these parts. Mental note to myself: another must-visit island in the summer months.

This article appeared in edited form in the December 2012 - January 2013 issue of Inflight Magazine. To read Part 1 of this Guimaras feature, click this link.

Info: Costa Aguada Island Resort is located on Inampulugan Island, southwest of the eastern coast of the Guimaras mainland, around 30-45 minutes by boat from San Isidro or Sabang. Non-airconditioned cottages start at US$33+; airconditioned cottages at US$50+ up • Outdoor recreation such as horseback riding and climbing available. Inampulugan is a jump-off to an island hop tour of the islands of Us-Usan, Nagarao, Nauway and Natunga. To book, call Tel. 476-1761; Mobile: 0918.9241237, 0917.309942 • Manila Sales Office: (632) 8965422; 7523688; Email: costa@pldtdsl.net; Visit www.costaaguadaresort.com

Back to Guimaras Part 1: Return to Nagarao, the Island of the Tree Spirits

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Thu, 06 Dec 2012 12:21:00 +0000

The beautiful, rocky shore of Nagarao in the early morning

It’s always changing, the sea and the view of the islands that lie beyond the waters. This is what Emma sees from the window of the main hall of the resort in Nagarao, one of the small islands off the Guimaras mainland. After 16 years spent on this 10-hectare Eden and seeing her children grow up, she has yet to outgrow her fondness for looking at the sea and the scenery that frames it – the stretch of fair, fine sand on the northern coast, the rocky shores to the south that reveal the rugged textures underneath at low tide, the silhouette of the forest trees on the western end.

Isn’t living on a small island unnerving or lonely, I ask her. She confesses to being discomfited by the silence at first but in time, “you get accustomed to the peace and quiet.” Whenever she goes back to her hometown in Iloilo, she finds the place noisy and can’t wait to go back to Nagarao she says with a hearty laugh.

Island lass Emma

I know exactly what she meant for I have found peace on this island twice over. I’ve sort of stumbled upon Nagarao four years ago on a backpacking trip with friends. I remembered coming here for the first time braving mechanical woes (a faltering motor) and going away on a tempestuous sea. It was also raining when I first visited making me conclude that either I like making trips during the monsoon season or I unwittingly bring rainy weather with me.

I also rediscovered the things that made the first visit memorable. After an overcast afternoon that saw us scampering for cover during sudden squalls while going over the rocky shores to the south, we spent dinner in the dining hall, hearing the relaxing patter of rain on the grass roof. Our team repaired early to our cottage and I was snoozing under the mosquitero (mosquito net) well before the power goes off at 11pm., lulled by the sounds of the incessant wind and the lolling of the waves on the shore just about a hundred steps from where I lay.

Lunch by the shore

By luck, we woke up to a somewhat sunny morning. Andy, the son of owner Helen Stumner, was feeling under the weather and so was absent for the duration of our stay save for short exchange of pleasantries at dinner time. His amiable dog, Booboo, however, kept us company most of the time we were out shooting, nimbly negotiating the exposed rocky shores, even to the mangrove areas on the eastern side.

It takes just 15-20 minutes to go around the island but then again, why hurry? Going inland and hiking through the forest can be both mystifying and invigorating. The former owing to stumbling upon the ruins of a stone house obscured by encroaching vegetation, the old abode of a German couple who were among the island’s erstwhile permanent residents but has since repatriated back to Germany. The latter since you can hear the wind move through the trees and so many birds trilling in song, the sound of the sea muffled by the cocoon of green that wraps this part of the island as if in a warm, humid embrace.

Friendly Booboo kept us company throughout our short stay

Nagarao may seem to be a backpacker destination alright but it has its share of creature comforts. The cottages may have basic beds but the toilet and bath is spacious with a shower and flush that actually work. Electricity comes on at around 5:30pm and shuts off at 11pm. Between those hours, you can enjoy dinner (usually seafood) and afterwards play billiards in the inner hall. But sharing stories over homemade oatmeal cookies is so much better, nevermind if the java that’s served is instant coffee. After all, I came here for a slice of the island life, not a swig of gourmet coffee. Visiting in the off-season has its perks even if the weather is fickle at best. The absence of other guests only heightened the feeling of having the island to ourselves even for just a day.

Right now, the island is in a period of lull and repairs are in order. The bridges to the jetties have been damaged during past typhoons and some of the vegetation along the coasts may need a bit of taming but I personally like the ruggedness, the rawness of the island and the feeling of desolation they bring. The afternoon of our departure, Emma saw us off, wearing a frilly abaca hat and a warm smile. Perhaps, she knows I hope to be back a third time. She waves at us as we sail northeast towards the silhouette of a giant crocodile – Inampulugan Island.

This article appeared in edited form in the December 2012-January 2013 issue of Inflight Magazine.

Info: Nagarao Island Resort is located southwest of the eastern coast of the Guimaras mainland, around 10-15 minutes by small boat from San Isidro or Sabang • Rate: P2,100 per person per day (full board package includes three set meals but exclusive of drinks) • There are 10 cottages available, all with private bathroom • Tel. (0063) (33) 3290078; Mobile: +63918 9080730; Email: info@nagaraoresort.com

Next: Paradise to paradise: From Nagarao to Inampulugan

Exploring Tenerife

noreply@blogger.com (Oggie Ramos) — Mon, 26 Nov 2012 15:30:00 +0000

The Canary Islands are a hugely popular holiday destination that attract millions of visitors each and every year – and it's not hard to see why. Boasting year-round sunshine thanks to its location just off the west African coast, this sun-baked archipelago promises scorching summers with lashings of sun, sea and sand, along with mild winters that typically provides lovely t-shirt weather, and even makes it possible for days spent sun-bathing on the beach or by the pool in the depths of winter.

As the largest and most popular of the Canary Islands, Tenerife is hugely diverse and appeals to people from all walks of life. It has long been associated with clubbing holidays thanks to the loud and lively resorts of Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos, which bring party animals in their droves for big nights out in the company of the world's best DJs and the latest dance tunes. Others come here looking for bargain holidays, and they're rarely disappointed. Tenerife is a popular spot and as competition among tour operators increases, prices typically come down – particularly where late deals are concerned.

Tenerife makes a first-rate beach holiday destination thanks to its well-equipped resorts, sandy beaches and wide range of entertainment featuring everything from laid-back pedaloes and glass-bottomed boat trips, to wet and wild windsurfing sessions. That said, if you prefer something a little quieter, you'll find plenty in the way of rural retreats, quaint seaside villages and private villas with their own pools – perfect for groups or families.

If that's got you thinking about tenerife holidays 2013, you're not alone. There are special offers and early bird deals aplenty on next year's holidays but in typical fashion, they're selling like hot cakes - so don't leave it too long until you book your perfect Tenerife trip...