Kalofagas - Greek Food & Beyond

Eating Under the Eucalyptus Tree

Peter Minakis — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:37:18 +0000

Today I would like to continue sharing with you my visit to the area in Greece known as Leonidio (Arcadia). I stayed for three days in this area that awes you with both mountain and sea. I was a guest of Elena and her family and the memories are still very fresh.

Each day, we would visit a different beach. On this day we went to the beach known as Plaka. We would find our spot on the beach, lay down our belongings and dive into the crystal blue waters.

Swimming invites appetite. Located right behind us was the Eucalyptus Restaurant…appropriately named after the the large Eucalyptus that grows to the side of the eatery.

When I came to Leonidio, I had no compass from which to judge how the food would be. This was my first time here. Eucalyptus is located right on the beach (Plaka) and from flipping through the menu, breakfast, lunch and dinner are all on offer.

First impressions of Eucalpytus were good: open kitchen (always inviting), super-clean and new and from looking at the other tables…prompt service.

Our hostess Athina greeted us with a beaming smile and organized a large table setting for us. We were right in front of the beach, hungry and certainly thirsty.

Our waiter recited the specials and signature dishes with precision memory and grace. Eucalyptus’ menu consists of traditional dishes with some nice twists thrown in for excitement.

I was impressed with the signature Eucalyptus Salad made of greens, tomatoes, olive paste, pine nuts and roasted Manouri cheese. I’m going to try making this salad next summer!

We ordered an array of appetizers that could be shared and each person also took in a main course. I opted for the special of the day (last order left) of Kokkoros Krassatos or “Rooster in wine”.

This dish is often duplicated with chicken but it’s unsurpassed when a real, gamey and flavourful rooster is used in this case. When you have good ingredients, little work in the kitchen is needed. The rooster, good olive oil, sauce from fresh tomatoes, some allspice berries and local red wine. Simmer until the meat falls off the bone and serve on a bed of pasta.

One of the appetizers that went fast (and was reordered) was a Grilled Halloumi (cheese) that was served with pita bread and a red pepper sauce. Halloumi is surely in my “Top 5″ of cheeses and this appetizer remains in my memory of that day’s lunch.

I’ve re-created this simple appetizer for you, which can be made indoors or on your backyard grill. The red pepper sauce consists of roasted red peppers, canned plum tomatoes, onions, garlic and a touch of Greek oregano.

I’m now making my pita pita bread…heightening this already delicious, eyebrow-raising meze!

Grilled Halloumi With a Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

(appetizer)

1/3 cup diced red onion

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove of garlic, smashed

1 roasted red pepper, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/2 cup of hand-crushed plum tomatoes (from good quality canned variety)

salt and pepper to taste

pinch of Boukovo (chilli flakes)

1/2 tsp. dried Greek oregano

Halloumi cheese, cut into 1/4 inch slices

Pita bread, cut into triangles (about the size of your Halloumi slices)

In a small skillet, add your olive oil over medium heat and add your onions and garlic and saute for a couple of minutes to soften. Add your chopped roasted red peppers and crushed tomatoes and bring to a boil.
Reduce back to medium and simmer. Add some salt and pepper to taste and simmer for another 7-10 minutes or until thick. Remove from the heat and allow to cool a bit. Add the sauce to a food processor or blender and puree. Adjust seasoning, add your pinch of Boukovo and dried Greek oregano and keep warm.
Pre-heat your gas grill or stove-top grill pan to medium-high heat. Brush your slices of Halloumi cheese with olive oil (but leave the pan dry). When the grill surface is hot, grill your cheese for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes a side.
Place your pita triangles on your serving dish and them top with the grilled Halloumi slices and a ribbon or dollop of the warm roasted red pepper sauce. Serve immediately.

Note: If you have any leftover sauce, this is great with some pasta and shrimp.

If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.ca then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.

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Kazan Dibi (Καζάν ντιμπί)

Peter Minakis — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:29:16 +0000

Those who have visited Istanbul (Constantinople) will have feasted on the array of eclectic sweet and savory dishes. Back in 2007 during my trip to Greece, I snuck in a side-trip to Istanbul, Turkey for a long weekend.

One of the desserts I enjoyed was Kazan Dibi or in Greek…”o πάτος του καζανιού”. For those that like Creme Brulee, this dessert is for you. The dessert’s name “Kazan Dibi” comes from the burnt bottom of the pan (kettle).

From my readings, the most authentic of Kazan Dibi’s are made with the milk of a bubal (buffalo). This dessert is very easy to make and it requires few ingredients: butter, milk, rice flour, corn starch, sugar and flavouring.

Kazan Dibi can be flavoured with ground mastic gum, vanilla, mahlepi, or in my instance, with rosewater.

I’ve had this dessert in Constantinople (Istanbul) and in Thessaloniki. In Constantinople (Istanbul), thin ribbons of the burnt pudding are rolled and then served. In Thessaloniki, I received the Kazan Dibi as a nice, thick serving as you see here.

Kazan Dibi is a quick, exotic dessert with the only catch being to make the night before and allow for the pudding to set overnight.

A spatula is the only tool needed to serve this easy treat. Cut a square serving, slide the spatula underneath the Kazan Dibi and quickly (but carefully) invert and place on the serving plate. The burnt/caramelized side of the pudding should be on top for presentation.

You can add a couple of drops of rosewater, sprinkle some ground pistachios or just dust with some cinnamon..it’s your call. For this recipe, I used a large 9-inch skillet. A heavy bottomed skillet will also work fine.

Kazan Dibi (Καζάν ντιμπί)

a 9-inch cast iron skillet

about 2 Tbsp. of room temp. unsalted butter

6 cups of milk + 1 cup to dilute the corn starch/rice flour mixture

3/4 cup corn starch

1/4 cup rice flour

1 cup of sugar + 2 heaping Tbsp. to make the caramel

3-4 Tbsp. of rosewater (or your preferred flavouring)

Take 1 cup of milk and add it to a bowl along with your corn starch and rice flour. Mix until dissolved and set aside.
In a medium-sized pot, add the remaining 6 cups of milk and bring to a boil over medium heat. As soon as your milk comes to a boil, add the sugar and reduce the heat to medium. Stir until dissolved.
Add the corn starch/rice flour and milk mixture into your hot milk and stir for a couple of minutes until the mixture comes to the consistency of a thick cream. Place the lid on the pot, take off the heat and reserve.
Grease the bottom of your skillet with butter and sprinkle with 2 heaping Tbsps. of sugar. Place your skillet over medium-high heat and watch over it as your sugar caramelizes. As soon as it has just gone black, add two ladles of your thick cream mixture to sufficiently cover the surface of your skillet. Allow the the cream to bubble and cook for about a minute and to form the “bottom crust”. Take off the heat and allow to cool for 3-4 minutes.
With your ladle, gently add the remaining cream over your burnt milk in the skillet. This step is important as you do not want to disturb the bottom crust and taint your cream mixture. Continue to add the cream mixture (ladle by ladle) and allow to cool for a few minutes. Place in the fridge overnight.
The next day when serving, cut a piece of the Kazan Dibi with your spatula and then slide underneath the piece and quickly (but carefully) flip the piece so that the burnt side is facing up.
Serve “as is” or sprinkle some ground pistachios and cinnamon and serve cool.

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Leonidio, Tsakones and Eggplant

Peter Minakis — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:13:22 +0000

This past summer in Greece was full of many firsts: met new friends, tried some new dishes, new wines, visited parts of Greece for the very first time. One such place was Leonidio.

Leonidio is the town centered the region of Tsakonia, a major part of the the coastal area of the Prefecture of Arcadia. To get to Leonidio, one must drive from Athens, pass over the Straight of Corinth and into the Peloponnese. One drives through Nemea and on towards Nafplion and Argos. Soon after a heading due South will take you through twisting roads that hug the sea from high atop.

Getting to Leonidio is not the easiest but it’s well worth it. Elena of “Syntages tis Kardias” (Recipes From the Heart) extended an invitation to me to spend a few days with her family at her summer home in the elevated village of Pragmatefteis.

Anytime one meets someone new for the first time there’s a bit of trepidation but all that melted away in an instant. Elena’s husband picked up from the town’s bus station and took me to their summer home. Nerves melted away after hugs, kisses and quick jokes and laughter. These were “my people” and I knew the three days in the Leonidio area were going to be special.

Making the weekend into a party atmosphere was Maria, a co-contributor of “Synages tis Kardias”. Maria and her family also joined us for the weekend and have no fear…this home was ample enough for everyone to sleep in their own beds!

KAOYR EKANATE -Tsakonian for "Kalos Ilthate" or Welcome!

The first thing that struck me about Leonidio is the marriage of both mountain & sea. Elena’s home is at the top-end of Pragatefteis (which is already a village with some altitude – not attitude). The hot Greek sun bakes our bodies by day and the warm yet refreshing waters of the Argolic Gulf provide cooling comfort.

The first beach we visited was Porto Sabatiki. The area of Leonidio is known for two things…it’s dialect and it’s Tsakonikes eggplants (the long & thin sweet and seedless eggplant).

The beach of Sabatiki is given a Tsakonian name. In modern Greek, the translation is “san patai ekei” or “like going there”. This quaint bay with Greek tourists, pleasure boats and fishing caiques is very quiet, family oriented and just one taverna to serve the beach.

Specialties offered daily include fish, seafood, vegetarian (ladera) dishes, an array of mezedes all dependant on what’s local and what’s seasonal. The Tsakonian eggplant is on the menu everywhere!

This long, narrow sweet eggplant is grown all over Greece but the actual crop grown in this region is coveted all over Greece and shipped to markets at a premium. The valley in between the two rock faces that surround Leonidio houses several greenhouses that grow just the Tsakonian eggplant.

Main dishes with eggplant, side dishes with tomato, eggplant and peppers, spoon sweet made from eggplant, fried eggplant, grilled eggplant and pickled eggplant. The Tsakonian eggplant is cooked in every culinary way imaginable.

The folks in this region adore this eggplant. It’s earned the status of “appellation of origin” and there’s even a weekend festival (missed it by a week) that fetes this variety of eggplant.

I’ll leave you with my very own homage to the Tsakonian eggplant with this quick and easy pasta that’s filling and (like always) delicious. This recipe is a riff on a dish I found in Reader’s Digest.

Grilled vegetables (the Tsakonian eggplant as the star) get tossed in broad noodles or pasta, with cubes of Feta cheese and Greek basil. At the market, look for the long, narrow eggplants that are light purple with some white streaks.

Greek basil might be a little harder to find. One visit to a Greek church and you’ll find Greek basil plants or at the home of your Greek friends. The leaf is much smaller than the Genoa basil and it’s shaped more like a spear. It’s very sweet but in my opinion, stronger than other basils. A little goes a long way.

If you’re a grilling fanatic like us Canadians (yes, we even grill in the snow) you can grill your vegetables and toss them in your pasta or simply use your oven’s broiler to give you a similar affect.

The vegetables natural sweetness are pronounced after being grilled, most noticeably the eggplant and each twirl of pasta will catch a different vegetable and offering a slightly different taste!

Maria, Elena, Foti, Dimitri and the children, I dedicate this dish to all of you, your warm and hospitality. Leonidio will always be special for me.

Fettucine with Grilled Vegetables and Greek Basil

(serves 4)

2 cups of zucchini, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds

2 cups of Tsakonian eggplant (the long, thin Japanese eggplant works well here)

1 red bell pepper, cut into wide strips

1 yellow pepper, cut into wide strips

1 red onion, cut into wedges

1 head of garlic, top sliced off

1/4 olive oil

1 tsp. sea salt

1/2 tsp. fresh ground pepper

500gr. package of fettucine

1/3 cup pine nuts

1 cup of Feta cheese, cubed

extra-virgin olive oil to toss with pasta

1/2 cup of Greek basil, hand torn (or any fresh basil you can find)

Pre-heat your broiler or gas grill on high. Toss your vegetables in the olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill your vegetables for about 4 minutes a side and reserve and keep warm. If using the oven, place your vegetables in a roasting pan and place 10 inches under the broiler and roast for about 20 minutes or until they take on a lightly charred colour. Reserve.
Place a large pot of water on your stove-top and bring to a boil. Add sea salt and your pasta and cook as per package instructions. In the meantime, lightly toast your pine nuts in a small pan over medium heat until they take on a light brown colour. Set aside.
When your pasta is cooked, drain and add the pasta back into the pot. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the its skins and add the remaining vegetables, the cubes of Feta, pine nuts and Greek basil. Toss to well-incorporate and add some extra-virgin olive oil to dress the pasta. Adjust seasoning with salt and fresh ground pepper and serve immediately.

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A-OK Borscht Soup

Peter Minakis — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:00:16 +0000

Last month, Canadians celebrated Thanksgiving Day (Oct.12th) and alongside of the usual turkey, fixins, pumpkin pie came a soup as a starter.

My brother’s girlfriend is of Polish descent and being fully aware that she (as with many Slavic peoples) that they love beets. Last year I made a Beet soup with a Greek flare but I wanted to try my hand at a traditional beet soup – Borscht.

I’ve only ever tried Borscht before (never made it), so I was a little nervous about it’s authenticity. All the nerves vanished when Natalia (brother’s girlfriend) tasting the soup.

She rejoiced as she tasted the chunky, earthy soup at our Thanksgiving table. A dollop of strained Greek yogurt, some last-minutes chopped fresh dill and Borscht is on!

As a personal preference, I wrapped the beets in foil and placed them in the oven until fork-tender. You may boil them but I think you’ll find that roasting beets concentrates their flavour.

It’s definitely soup season and beets are in season, delicious and mondo-healthy for you. Try your hand at Borscht…Natalia gave the A-OK signal on this one!

Borscht

2 large beets (about 1lb.)

1/4 cup olive oil

3 medium onions, sliced

3 cloves of garlic, smashed

2 carrots, sliced

2 stalks of celery, sliced

2 potatoes, cut into cubes

approx. 2 cups of finely sliced white cabbage

1 cup of tomato puree

1/2 cup of chopped fresh parsley

6-8 cups of stock (traditionally beef stock is used)

salt and pepper to taste

juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup of chopped fresh dill

strained Greek yogurt or sour cream for garnish

Pre-heat your oven to 450F and wrap your beets with aluminum foil. Baked for 45 minutes or until fork-tender. Peel the skins of the beets with the back of a knife and chop into spoon-sized chunks.
In a large pot, add your olive oil, onions, carrots and celery and saute over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Now add your shredded cabbage, tomato puree, chopped parsley and beets and stir-in and saute for another 5 minutes.
Now add your stock (should cover all your vegetables) and potatoes and bring to a boil. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer with the lid slightly ajar for 45 to 60 minutes.
When the cabbage and vegetables are tender and you have your desired soup consistency. Take off the heat, add your chopped fresh dill and lemon juice and stir in.
Serve a bowl of this chunky Borscht with a dollop of strained Greek yogurt and a garnish of fresh dill.

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