All About Dogs

Separation Anxiety

2009-04-02T17:47:00.000-07:00

Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly. Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety. There are a number of contributing causes to the condition: - Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales - A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick. - Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog. - Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content. The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? - but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door. Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do: - Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about - for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better. - Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure. - When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company. - If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. - Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her. Do not: - Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset! If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below:
Click Here

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-04-02T17:43:00.000-07:00

King. The first dog we had was named King. A classic, stately, refined name for a messy little dog who would eat absolutely anything!

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-03-13T10:39:00.000-07:00

Bagle. Our neighbor had a cute little Beagle named Bagle. It really rolls off the lips for a Beagle.

Recognizing, Preventing, and Handling Dog Aggression

2009-03-08T14:16:00.000-07:00

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently. - Different aggression types - There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are: - Aggression towards strangers - Aggression towards family members You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment. - Aggression towards strangers - What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in. The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general. How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers? Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand). Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually. - Aggression towards family members - There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family: - He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. - He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family. What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys. Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc). To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say. So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say. You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. - If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer. - Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively - Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day). Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them. Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles. Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat. For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals. Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!) For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look. You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below.
Click Here

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-03-08T14:13:00.000-07:00

Buddy. Another classic. Works for any size dog and any breed. After all, dogs are our best buddies!

Puppy Vs. Mirror

2009-03-07T16:59:00.000-08:00

What puppy hasn't done this?

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-03-04T15:41:00.001-08:00

Sparky. Everyone is going retro with kid names -- go with this classic name for your new pooch!

Healthy and Tasty Treat

2009-03-04T15:39:00.000-08:00

1 cup white rice flour
1/4 cup soy flour
1/4 cup egg substitute
1 tablespoon molasses -- unsulphered
1/3 cup milk
1/3 cup powdered milk
2 tablespoons safflower oil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix dry ingredients together. Add molasses, egg, oil and milk. Roll out flat onto oiled cookie sheet and cut into dally bite-sized pieces. Bake for 20 minutes. Let cool and store in tightly sealed container.

Frozen Peanut Butter Yogurt Treats

2009-03-04T15:38:00.000-08:00

32 ounces vanilla yogurt
1 cup peanut butter

1. Put the peanut butter in a microwave safe dish and microwave until melted.

2. Mix the yogurt and the melted peanut butter in a bowl.

3. Pour mixture into cupcake papers and freeze.

Dog Loaf

2009-03-04T15:31:00.002-08:00

2 1/8 cups water
2 cups brown rice
2 large potatoes
2 large carrots
1 1/8 pounds pumpkin
1 large onion
2 cloves garlic
3/4 bunch silver beet
1 cup whole meal pasta -- or Soya pasta
2 cups rolled oats
1 cup whole meal flour
1 1/8 pounds mince (or liver or fish)
3 eggs

Boil the rice in water for 10 - 15 minutes and chop the veggies (I put them through the food processor) Add the veggies and pasta to the rice and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave to cool (not vital if you're like me and in a rush!) Add mince, eggs, herbs, rolled oats and flour and mix together. Add more oats or flour if mixture is sticky (should be like a fruit cake mix)

Spoon into oiled and floured loaf tins and bake in a hot oven 350 degrees for 1 hour.

Remove from tins ,turn oven off and return loaves to oven for 5 - 10 minutes to firm bottom crust.

Take out of oven, leave to cool and use immediately or wrap in foil and freeze.

Makes about 3 - 4 loaves.

Doggy Dip

2009-03-04T15:31:00.001-08:00

3 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons honey
1 banana -- *See Note
16 ounces vanilla yogurt
1 tablespoon whole wheat flour

Mix the peanut butter, honey, and fruit together until well blended. In a separate bowl, combine the yogurt and flour, mix well. Add the fruit mixture to the yogurt and blend together. Keep cold in refrigerator.
Use this dip to coat or dip biscuits and treats into. Allow treats to chill in refrigerator until coating is set and firm; this prevents big messes!

Note: Very Ripe, or a large jar of baby food fruit, any flavor

Dog Cookie

2009-03-04T15:13:00.001-08:00

2 cups rye flour
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2/3 cup warm water
1/2 cup white flour
1/4 cup cornmeal

Mix well. I usually add about 1/4 tsp. either vanilla or mint flavor.
Roll out to 1/4" thick. Cut into shapes (I usually use about a 3-4" bone-shape cutter). Bake on lightly greased cookie sheet for 30 minutes at 350 degrees.

Cheese and Bacon Dog Biscuits

2009-03-04T15:11:00.000-08:00

3/4 cup Flour
1/2 teaspoon Baking Soda
1/2 teaspoon Salt
2/3 cup Butter
2/3 cup Brown Sugar
1 Egg
1 teaspoon Vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups oatmeal
1 cup Cheddar Cheese -- shredded
1/2 cup Wheat Germ
1/2 pound Bacon -- or bacon bits

Combine flour, soda and salt; mix well and set aside. Cream butter and sugar, beat in egg and vanilla. Add flour mix mixing well. Stir in oats, cheese, wheat germ and bacon. Drop by rounded tablespoon onto ungreased baking sheets. Bake at 350 for 16 minutes. Cool and let the critters enjoy!

Banana Bites

2009-03-04T15:10:00.000-08:00

2 1/4 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup powdered milk -- nonfat
1 egg
1/3 cup banana -- ripe, mashed
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 beef bouillon cube
1/2 cup water -- hot
1 tablespoon brown sugar

Mix all ingredients until will blended. Knead for 2 minutes on a floured surface. Roll to 1/4 " thickness. Use a 2 1/2" bone shaped cookie cutter (or any one you prefer). Bake for 30 minutes in a 300 degrees oven on ungreased cookie pans.

Biscuits

2009-03-04T15:09:00.000-08:00

3 1/2 cup whole wheat flour
2 cup Quaker oats
1 cup milk
1/2 cup hot water
2 beef or chicken bouillon cubes
1/2 cup meat drippings

Dissolve bouillon cubes in hot water. Add milk and drippings and beat.
In a separate bowl, mix flour and oatmeal. Pour liquid ingredients into dry ingredients and mix well. Press onto an ungreased cookie sheet and cut into shapes desired. Bake at 300 degrees for 1 hour. Turn off heat and leave in the oven to harden. Refrigerate after baking.

Peanutty Pupcicles

2009-03-04T15:08:00.000-08:00

1 ripe banana
1/2 cup peanut butter
1/4 cup wheat germ
1/4 cup chopped peanuts

Mash banana's and peanut butter, stir in wheat germ. Chill 1 hour. Place in container, store in refrigerator or freezer.

Beef Twists

2009-03-04T15:07:00.000-08:00

3 1/2 cups flour, all-purpose
1 cup cornmeal
1 package unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup milk
1 egg
1/4 cup corn oil
1 jar Baby food, meat, beef, strained
1 beef bouillon cube
3/4 cup boiling water -- or beef stock

Dissolve bouillon cube in water. Sift dry ingredients in large bowl. Add milk, egg, oil, beef and beef bouillon. Stir until well mixed. Roll out on a floured surface to 1/4 inch thickness. Cut in 1/4 inch by 3 inch strips, twisting each stick 3 turns before placing on cookie sheet. Bake 35-40 minutes at 400 degrees. Store in refrigerator.

Bacon Bits

2009-03-04T15:06:00.000-08:00

6 slices cooked bacon -- crumbled
4 eggs -- well beaten
1/8 cup bacon grease
1 cup water
1/2 cup powdered milk -- non-fat
2 cup graham flour
2 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup cornmeal

Mix ingredients with a strong spoon; drop heaping tablespoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a 350 oven for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cookies on baking sheet in the oven overnight to dry out.

Doggie Cookies

2009-03-04T15:05:00.000-08:00

3 jars baby food, meat, beef, strained -- *see Note
1/4 cup cream of wheat -- *see Note
1/4 cup dry milk

Combine ingredients in bowl and mix well. Roll into small balls and place on well-greased cookie sheet. Flatten slightly with a fork. Bake in preheated 350 degree oven for 15 min. until brown.

Cool on wire racks and STORE IN REFRIGERATOR. Also freezes well.

NOTE: Carrot, Chicken or Beef baby food. substituting wheat germ for cream of wheat.

Apple a Day Dog Treat

2009-03-04T15:04:00.000-08:00

2 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup unbleached flour
1/2 cup cornmeal1 apple -- chopped or grated1 egg -- beaten
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed
3/8 cup water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray cookie sheet with vegetable oil spray. Lightly dust work surface with flour. Blend flours and cornmeal m large mixing bowl. Add apple, egg, oil, brown sugar and water; mix until well blended.

On floured surface, roll dough out to 7/8-inch thickness. Cut with cookie cutters of desired shape and size. Place treats on prepared sheet.

Bake in preheated oven 35 to 40 minutes. Turn off oven. Leave door closed 1 hour to crisp treats. Remove treats from oven.
Store baked treats in airtight container or plastic bag and place in refrigerator or freezer.

MAKES 2 to 2 1/2 dozen

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-02-27T12:34:00.000-08:00

Pip. Short. Sweet.

Destructive Chewing

2009-02-25T09:47:00.000-08:00

The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual preference among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatsoever unless they're driven to it out of sheer boredom.

The phrase "destructive chewing" may sound redundant, because, by its very nature, all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase "destructive chewing", I'm referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that's focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog's own designated toys and chews.

The three main reasons why dogs chew:

- Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It's fun, it passes the time, and it's a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she's chewing on something that tastes good.)

- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing; it's the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

- Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

- How to prevent destructive chewing -

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff, you just have to put in a little effort first, that's all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there's still no reason to test her self-control, after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don't want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something's out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don't leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops, you'd be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there's food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance, a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe, the more readily she'll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it's a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you're confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don't set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don't offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can't possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she's got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she's an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard, but that's boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don't need to interact with, you'd have got a goldfish, right?) She can't learn what you expect of her if she's spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what's appropriate and what's not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an "Ah-ah-aaaah!" noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing her toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

- Maintain a productive attitude -

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You're not perfect, and neither is your dog: there's likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she's still learning the ropes: it'll take awhile before she's completely reliable (and even then, if she's left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of "you-time" to help her learn faster, and don't forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she's got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog's learning.
You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below:

Click Here

Puppy Name of the Day

2009-02-25T06:03:00.000-08:00

Zipper. For that cute, quick little puppy, or, perhaps one that is a wee bit too noisy sometimes.

Jerry needs no help playing with his ball.

2009-02-24T11:27:00.000-08:00

I don't know what is cooler, the dog or the machine!

Three Things Every Puppy Must Be Taught

2009-02-24T11:12:00.000-08:00

Three Things Every Puppy Must Be Taught by Jeff Clare

Play is a very large part of any puppy's early life. But were you aware that playtime can also be learning time as well? Play can be a valuable tool in teaching your puppy everything from learning simple commands to teaching them the ins and outs of socializing and what it takes to be a well behaved dog.

The most important word your dog will probably ever learn is the word "No". Pups as early as six weeks old are capable of learning the implications of "no" and it is a lesson that will be carried throughout their lives with you. This one command can go a long way to protecting your dog from harming herself or others.

And it's easy. Dogs, even puppies, are adept at recognizing tone of voice. When they learn to associate a displeased, forceful tone of voice with the word no, you will not in the future have to be so forceful in your utterances. But first you do have to get his attention. When the pup does something wrong, simply pick him up, gain eye contact and tell him very firmly, "No". It will get an immediate reaction. Depending on your pup's personality, he will drop his head and become sheepish, growl or attempt to talk you out of it by asking you to play. If either of the latter two happens, you will have to repeat the command to show that you are not kidding.

Then, simply let it go. Put the pup down and keep a watchful eye on his response. A rebellious pup may repeat the action as a way to test you, in which case you need to repeat the process. Be gentle, but be firm and consistent and your pup should get the message.

As for the other things that your baby needs to know, you will probably default to teaching him the proper way to go potty. This is actually easier than you might think, as pups are a lot smarter than they look. Timing is, however, everything. If you notice a puddle on the floor and your pup has since gone off to play with his ball, the only thing you can do is clean it up and watch him more closely. Don't rub his nose in it, or he will simply be hurt and confused. What you want to do is catch him in the act. When you see him start to take a tinkle, grab him and take him outside. Chances are he will be so shocked that he will save some for the yard, and when he goes there you can praise him lavishly.

The third thing that your pup needs to know is that he should never put his teeth on a human being. This is a tough one, as it is so much fun to play "bite" with a youngster. But when they are older, you really don't want them to play so rough. So when you play with him, be sure to do so with toys that are okay for him to bite. If he bites when you are trying to pet him, tell him no and give him his toy or put his toy right in his mouth. If he persists, pick him up and tell him no. If you are consistent, you should get good results.

When your pup has accomplished learning her first command, or goes outside instead of on the floor and stops puppy-biting, she is well on her way to graduating from puppy to a well-mannered adult.

Jeff Clare runs Dog Training News where you can read many more articles on dog control. For more general advice on dog first aid go to Dogs And Dog News.

Article Source: http://www.keywordarticles.org