Do you remember that episode of Friends when Joey got a “man purse”? I tried to find it on YouTube but the copyright police have removed most episodes of the series. Well, except this clip from said episode that was dubbed into Spanish – so, enjoy, amigos!

You wouldn’t entirely be blamed for thinking of this episode when taking a look at our latest find, the CLC Electrician’s Tool Pouch with Plastic Tray. Its long shoulder strap and slim design could be mistaken for something a little less manly. Perhaps that’s the reason why CLC designed the carrying apparatus so that all those tough-guy tools could be placed on the outside of the bag as well.

According to the website, the Electrician’s Tool Pouch features:

• Double layer of rugged, lightweight 600D polyester fabric stands up to tough, jobsite conditions
• 8” x 3” multi-compartment plastic tray slides securely into bottom of pouch, allowing you to take small parts with you without them becoming lost or damaged
• Six large outside screwdriver holders
• Heavy duty tool snap, steel hammer loop and electrical tape strap

Handy, convenient and nothing close to that silly thing Spanish Joey was carrying around. The Custom LeatherCraft 1510 13 Pocket Electricians Tool Pouch with Plastic Tray is available for about $35.

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CLC Electrician’s Tool Pouch with Plastic Tray: It’s Not A Purse

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Congratulations, home owner! You’ve bought a “real” house complete with a basement. You have a clear vision for what you want to do with the rest of the place but you’re not quite sure what to do for that lower level. We understand needing to take one home renovation project on at a time, but be warned: if you procrastinate too long on renovating the downstairs, you could risk having a basement that becomes:

• A permanent storage area for everything from Christmas decorations to shameful infomercial purchases
• A space where dorm-era furniture goes the die
• The cold, dank place your kids refer to as “The ghost’s room”

The good people at This Old House recently did a photo feature called Basement Bonus Rooms on various ways people can use basements large and small. We recommend checking it out for inspiration.

Not surprisingly, we thought the suggestions of converting your basement into a home bar and / or private wine cellar were the most appealing. If you agree with us, you might like some of these products we discovered in various online shops:

• How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar By Richard Gold
• Home Bar Project’s Bar Designs and Plans
• Rockler Wine Lattice & Glass Moldings
• Rockler Traditional Bar Moldings
• Blanco Undermount or Drop-In Sink
• Summit 24″ Wine Cellar with 120-Bottle Capacity
• Vinter Series DIY Wine Rack Kits (one such kit is shown above!)
• Kegworks Assorted Keg Taps

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Basement Inspiration: Home Bar & Wine Cellar Products

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We have to give props to Doug at ToolSnob.com for digging up a few hilarious videos of the very silly things grown men do when they’ve rented Excavators.

The HomeFixated lawyers insist we mention over and over again that while it looks like a lot of fun, you shouldn’t try this. Got it?

Right, well … on with the videos!

Thinking of renting an excavator to try this out for legitimate landscaping and building purposes? Want to buy one? Machinery Trader offers a continual listing of new and old excavators for sale as well as rental options.

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America’s Funniest Excavator Rides

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Much to the dismay of my lovely other half Carrie–I recently broke my ankle playing hockey.  Trust me–the pain has been worth the benefits.   I get to lounge around having palm fronds waved at me, grapes fed to me by hand, and I don’t even have to take the dog out.  This has given me time to think of things like: What if Yoda was a carpenter?  Help you I can, yes.  With expanding your Jedi finish carpentry training.  Talking trim we are.

Imagine–if you will–a planet where a door needs to be trimmed.  It is just waiting to be cased out, and you are just the Jedi to do it.  I attack door trim with the following:  Miter Saw, 4′ Level, 36” level, tape measure, trim hammer, tri-square, nail set, flush cut hand saw, pneumatic finish nailer, and a pneumatic pin nailer.  Don’t fret if you don’t have access to the air tools.  They certainly make the job a lot easier–and can be rented fairly cheaply if your tool armory doesn’t require them.  Check around for tool co-ops as well.  I know there is one where I live where you can check-out tools–much like the library.  Cool, huh?

First things first.  Check the door jamb for plumb, level and square.  I like to install door jambs with 3 1/8” torx head screws–and screw into the jamb where the door stops will cover them.  It makes for really easy adjustment–and you can take out bows and dips in your jamb pretty easily by simply backing out, or driving in the screw.  I start at the bottom, centering the jamb in your rough opening, and tack a screw into each bottom and go up from there.  Shim behind the jamb where you put your screws.  Use the 4′ level to keep things as plumb as possible, while using the straight edge of the level to make sure you don’t suck the jamb in too tight–or bow it out.  Same thing for the top of the jamb–just downsize to the smaller level.  When you are satisfied with the jamb, use the flush cut saw to cut off the exposed shims.  If  drywall stands proud of your door jamb–that can be a problem when you go to case out the door.  Slight stand-out can be corrected the old fashioned way.  Beat it down.  Hammer the edge of the drywall being careful to keep your hammering toward the edge of the drywall–and inside what your trim will cover.  Extreme cases might require you to “back-out” part of your trim.  Unless you are pretty comfortable with a table saw–this is definitely an advanced maneuver–and I would recommend re-adjusting the jamb at this point.  Once the jamb is successfully in place–onto the trim.

Before you go firing up the miter saw–take the time to set your tri-square to your desired reveal.  The reveal will be how much of the door jamb remains exposed once you have applied your trim.  I make about five light pencil marks for each “leg” of trim.  Starting at the bottom of the jamb and then up , 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and top.  Don’t worry about measuring.  These marks are just for you to be able to stay consistent with your reveal.  Do this on both sides, and on your header–or top of the jamb.  Now, measure your header.  If you are mitering the trim–your measurement will be the width of your leg material + the reveals.  This will be the measurement on the long point of your 45° miter.  For square cut headers–the same applies only make sure to add how much you would like the header to “stand proud” or stick out beyond the width of your leg trim.  Make sure and add the stand out for both sides.  I only tell you this from years of forgetting to do so.

Now we get to fire up the light saber–er saw.  Cut your header first.  On trim–I always cut the side of the trim that will be the finish side.  Let the saw get to its maximum RPM before making the cut.  This will help ensure a clean cut through the finish side of the trim.  I like to use the pin nailer to nail the bottom part of my header into the door jamb first.  It sets my reveal–and there isn’t much need to check for level–as we did that with the door jamb.  Use your reveal marks and carefully pin nail the trim to the jamb.  Be careful of “blow out” and getting too close to the edge of the trim piece.  For hand nailing (shudder) it isn’t a terrible idea to use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your nail size and drill where you will nail–as this will prevent splitting the trim piece.

Next–nail the top of the header piece with your finish nailer into the framing.  Use nails of adequate size to get through the trim piece, and drywall in order to find the meat that is your framing.  With the header in place–you can now measure the legs.  For 45° miters–use the long point and measure to the floor–or where you need to stop to accommodate for flooring.  (Typically hardwood is 5/8” from the sub-floor and carpet is around 3/4”–but don’t take my word for it–double check)  For square cuts the same applies.  On square cuts–I will use a small piece of material and put it under the material to be cut. (About 1/16” thick)  This makes a slight bevel on the material–and allows for a nice tight joint to the header.  I also will typically cut my legs about 1/16” of an inch long–as that extra length really can make a great looking joint.

Before nailing–check both legs.  Make sure they are up to your standards.  The extra 1/16” will often allow them to friction fit, so you can step back and admire your handiwork.  If satisfied–the same nailing procedure is the order of the day.  When I nail door trim with the finish nailer–I’ll set it so it doesn’t drive the nail all the way into the wood, avoiding any marks from the nailer mechanism actually hitting the wood.  Once all nailed off–I’ll go back and set each nail by hand with the nail set and hammer.  Whew!  The door is cased!

Not quite case closed–now we need to cover up where we screwed the door jamb into the framing.  Cut the door stops starting with the legs first.  You will be cutting a 45° bevel on the top of your legs.  A bevel cut is like the miter cut we made earlier–but a bevel is through the thickness of the material as opposed to the width.   You can also measure and make the door stop header cut here as well–cut it a 1/16” long.  Here is where a lot of doors can get wonky.  Take a piece of material 1/16” thick to use as a spacer and close the door.  Put the spacer against the door, and with slight pressure against the door–nail on your door stops–legs first.  Where ever you nail use your spacer and apply that slight pressure.  To install the header door stop–simply place one end into your beveled leg cut–and flex the door stop so it fits in between.  The door should now close with a satisfying “thhwonk!” against your door stops.

The Force is strong with you Finish Jedi.  Trimmed your door you did.

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Jedi Door Trim, How To Install Door Trim

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Have you heard of this amazing space-age wonder product?

It looks great! It’s fire resistant! You can dance on it all night!

It’s asbestos!

Oh, those were the good old days: Asbestos floor tiles, real lead pencils for school children, the planet Pluto … Of course, we really shouldn’t be so smug about the ignorance of our parents’ generation. Lordie knows what our kids will be mocking us for (I envision something like, “You put THAT in your toothpaste? Geez, everyone knows that causes brain damage!” or “You wiped your butts with what? No wonder so many people had cancer!”)

Regardless of your confidence in modern companies to create safe household products, if your home was built before 1985-ish – and especially if it was built in the 60s and early 70s – there’s a possibility that there’s some asbestos somewhere in there. While it’s not limited to just these products, the most common asbestos carriers are linoleum (like in floors and counters), insulation and popcorn ceilings.

If the material in question is in great condition and you have no plans to replace it, it’s sometimes actually safer to keep it as is than ripping it out (a pro can help you decide what’s safest). Removing construction materials that may include asbestos should not be taken lightly. Fibers can quite easily be released into the air during the process and can stay exposed in your home for quite a while. Your little paper swine flu mask is not nearly enough to protect you from harm.

If you are looking to remodel or renovate your home and there’s any possibility of an asbestos presence, the first thing to do before you pull out any tools is to get your materials tested. Asbestos testing involves gathering a sample and having a lab analyze it. While there are a few DIY “collect-it-yourself” Asbestos Test Kits available, the safest way to deal with potential hazardous and toxic materials is to let the professionals handle it. To find an Asbestos Tester, take a look at Angie’s List. This can cost you anywhere between $75 and $200.

Should the results come back positive (which, really, is a negative), it’s best to hire professionals, again, through the peer-reviewed Angie’s List.. They’ll have the right equipment, safety wear and disposal processes needed to do it right. It’s not cheap, but the health of you and your family is worth it.

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How To Deal With Asbestos In Your Home

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People have a funny way of teaching children lessons. Take the importance of keeping one’s walk clear of ice and snow. Back in the day, between Mr. Roger’s Neighborhood, Sesame Street and Mr. Dressup, short animations from the National Film Board of Canada would air. Special Delivery, a film where a mailman slips and dies on a snow-filled front porch, was one such short. This little cartoon was seared into the minds of children – not simply because of the gruesome result of not shoveling and de-icing, but because of the full-frontal male nudity featured in the animation. Think I’m kidding? I am so not:

Yup. Instead of airing toy and fast-food commercials, the CBC (our public national broadcaster) would fill the space between puppet and Muppet shows in the morning with Special Delivery. Neato.

If you’d like to teach your children the important lesson of winter porch maintenance, you need not turn to us communists and our warped ideas on children’s entertainment. Instead, you can simply teach by example and keep your walk safe and clear.

Shoveling after a big snow dump is still a necessity, but with the right product, the act of chipping away at frozen slicks of ice can be put behind you. Consider melting and preventing snow and ice build-up the smart and eco-friendly way with Keep It Green Snow and Ice Melter.

A 40-lb bucket contains a mixture of CMA and Potassium Acetate that, like salt, melts ice and snow, but the Keep It Green formula also includes a time release fertilizer. You see, many de-icers (including salt) can harm the lawn once everything melts. This product does the opposite. Keep it Green claims to be the only “true” eco-friendly ice and snow removal product on the market as it is “safer for your pets, landscape and vegetation.”

This 40-lb reusable container of Keep it Green Snow-and-Ice Melter is available from Amazon for $49.99. Smaller sizes are also available.

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Keep It Green Snow & Ice Melter & Disturbing Childhood Memories

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What you see in the picture over there–is a oft used, dropped, and really–just plain abused tool.  But she works like a champ!  “Hackey” as she is reverently referred to is my model 77 Skilsaw 71/4” worm drive circular saw.  She has been dropped from roof trusses, tossed into mud, and survived a winter in the truck’s tool box all alone in the dark.  I can always count on Hackey to cut me out of any situation.  Unfortunately–Hackey did not do this all on her own.  Proper maintenance and just a little TLC goes a long way in keeping your saws in tip top shape.

Maintenance has such a dreary, boring connotation.  The thought alone of “maintenance” gets me all…tired.  But–it plays an important part in keeping our tools safe–and getting our money’s worth.  Maintaining your saw is quick, easy, and really will extend the life of the tool.

Safety: I cannot stress enough:  Sharp blades are safe blades.  If your saw is gnawing through wood like a starving beaver it is time for a new blade.  That smoke rising up as you hack through a deck joist?  New blade.  Dull blades also tax the motor of your saw potentially shortening its life span.  Your saw will love you–which is a good thing.  Circular saws do bite.

Zeus You Are Not: Hurling lightning bolts is cool and all–but us mere mortals shouldn’t try it.  Check your electrical cord for nicks and cuts.  Small ones can be taped up with some electrical tape–but any gash that leaves the wires cut should be replaced.  Running your hand down the cord while you’re making a cut and finding exposed wires can be–shocking–to say the least.  Also–don’t carry your saw by the cord.  This is like pulling its tail.  It doesn’t like it.

Use Lube: Check the oil level in your saw.  Most manufacturers will list what oil they would like you to use.  Be wary of putting in a different oil than recommended–especially if you are still in the warranty as it may void it.  A lubed saw is a happy saw.  Under oiled saws will eventually begin to wear on the gearing, tax the motor, and shorten the life of your little cutty buddy.

Shoes Clues: The “shoe” is the plate you use to set your saw on the material you are cutting.  It should be relatively free from gnarled metal that can snag on the material and bind.  Some rough sand paper can take care of that.  When locked into the 0° position–your shoe should be 90° in relation to your blade.  It isn’t an exact science.  Hackey sits at about 2° to cut at a true 90.  Knowing your saw, and your saw’s shoe will prevent unwanted bevel cuts.

A Tightening a Day: Keeps the tool doctors away.  Double check your shoe tightening bolt, the screws on the handles, and most importantly the blade arbor bolt.  You don’t have to channel your inner Hulkamaniac on it, in fact, over-tightening the blade arbor bolt is a common mistake and can be dangerous too. A quick check of these things will keep you safe, and prevent any unexpected-while-sawing-surprises out of you and your saw’s life.  Neither of you need that stress.

Blow it: After a good sawing your saw will collect sawdust in its nether regions.  Using clean, compressed air to blow out your saw cleans off the inner brushes, and guts of the saw.  Go ahead–do it again.  It tickles!  Your saw is laughing with cleanliness!

Post from: HomeFixated.com Visit today!

Skils to Pay the Bills: Circular Saw Maintenance Tips

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Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t like cats. Of all the creatures in the animal kingdom, I think cats are the top jerks – and, yes, I did consider the raccoon, the hyena and ALF, and cats still won the title.

Much of my proof lies in how they treat the surroundings around them. Despite being waited on hand and foot, getting to live in comfy homes rent-free and not having a care in the world, cats spend their leisure time destroying your furniture, floors, walls and door posts. Just because. See? Jerks.

Luckily for all you cat chumps, Rockler carries one of the best wood scratch removers and repairers: The Zenith Tibet Almond Stick. Simply rub this small but mighty stick into the wood wounds and you’ll see the marks seemingly disappear before your eyes. Rockler cautions that this scratch repairer is really just for slight and superficial scrapes, but many of the people who reviewed the Zenith Tibet Almond Stick say it helped improve the appearance of deep scrapes and gouges. Sounds like a case of under-promising and over-performing!

The Zenith Tibet Almond Stick is safe for all wood and finishes (with the exception of bleached wood) and can be used on anything from floors to antique furniture to pianos to door panes (in other words, everything those dang cats can get their claws on). The cost can’t be beat either – a Zenith Tibet Almond Stick is just $5.99 at Rockler.

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Cat Scratch Fever: Zenith Tibet Almond Stick

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Drywall. There are those that don’t mind it—and those that detest it with a seething hatred usually reserved for demons, evil masterminds, and in some cases: in-laws.

I fall into the latter category. Drywall, or my term of endearment: “Sh@#rock” is a chore I would rather not spend a lot of time doing. Because of this, I was resolved to find ways to expedite my time spent with this vile, dusty, and wholly necessary construction material. If you fall into the category of not minding drywall: Feel free to stop reading. Your techniques and skills do not need honing. If you enjoy drywall you are probably either: A demon, an evil mastermind, or someone’s in-law.

For those with the good sense to not enjoy it, allow me to explain a helpful tip for measuring, and cutting drywall with ease using the “Score & Pop” method. (For those keeping track at home, yes I count that as at least two points on the innuendo scale). For simplicity’s sake, let us assume we need to cut a 4’x 8’x 1/2’’ sheet of drywall in half lengthwise. In the trades this is known as a rip. Cross cuts are across the material the short way. (2×4x8’ cut across the 3 ½’’ standard size). Rips are the long way.

Place the sheet against a wall on the 8’ side. Take your tape measure and lock it at 24 inches. Put the tape measure so that the hook end is “in the field”. Meaning, the hook end is where you will be cutting. No need for pencil marks or chalk lines. Take your utility knife and place the blade on the inside of the hook of your tape, and apply pressure. Move the tape with one hand, while you simultaneously “score” (1 innuendo point) the drywall. It is important that you move the tape measure and knife as close to parallel to each other in order to stay as accurate as possible.

Scoring the drywall will allow you to make a couple more quick passes with your knife without having to use the tape measure. Get in there good. Make sure you’ve cut through the paper, and gotten into the actual “rock” part of the drywall. Now comes the cool part. Lean the sheet away from the wall, and seat the bottom edge against the base of the wall. Channel your inner Ralph Macchio. (He was the Karate Kid, and if you haven’t seen that movie cease reading and go rent it. Now.) When the inner Karate Kid fills your soul, give the drywall a good “pop” by slapping along the score line on the opposite side of your cut. Doing so should get the drywall to break along your cut—but not separate.

What you should have is a piece of drywall that is roughly in the shape of a “V”. Taking your utility knife, draw it along about half to three quarters of the length of your cut, on the backside, or opposite the original score cut. Bring the drywall back out of its “V” and as you get close to vertical, give it another good tug while using your foot to keep the bottom half seated against the wall.

If all goes right—it will “pop” and separate from the bottom piece. Blammo. One ripped piece of drywall. (5 total innuendo points. 2 bonus points for a Karate Kid reference, and that weirdo relationship between Daniel-San and Mr. Miyagi–that somehow flew above my head as a kid.)

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Easy Drywall Cutting Tips, How To Cut Drywall Karate Kid Style

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… and by “Handyman” they do indeed also mean “Handywoman.” “Handyperson” or “Handyone” just don’t have quite the right flow.

If you know how to swing a mean hammer, are a fan of HGTV and dream of one day becoming tabloid fodder, consider applying to this HGTV casting call for All-American Handyman:

HGTV is seeking charismatic, energetic, non-professional handy men and women to participate in the upcoming competition series, All American Handyman. Strong carpentry skills, experience with tools, creativity and excellent problem-solving skills are a real plus. The winner will be awarded a significant prize package.

To apply, click below to download the application form and the rules and eligibility requirements. Both forms are in Microsoft Word format.

Click here to download the All American Handyman application form.
Click here to download the All American Handyman rules and eligibility requirements.

You can e-mail your completed application form to allamericanhandyman@hgtv.com, or print it out and send it via snail mail to the address listed near the bottom of the application form.

I personally think HomeFixated’s own Marc Lyman should take a crack at it – check out his video review of the Rockwell Jawhorse. The man knows his tools and can rock a black T-shirt better than Simon Cowell.

Good luck to all the applicants!

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HGTV Casting Call: All-American Handyman

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