1. For Spring Loaded Windows

Make sure you have an adjustment screw on the track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and open and closes smoothly.

2. Spring Lift Windows

These windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded lift rod that’s inside a metal tube.  To adjust these type of windows unscrew the top end of the tube from the jamb. then twist the tube to change the spring tension: if you turn it clockwise you will get more lifting power; and counterclockwise for less.  Keep a good strong grip on the tube so you don’t unwind it.

Hope this helps with you fussy windows…

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Is there is an adjoining wall separating your kitchen from a living area? Take it down - assuming it isn’t a load bearing wall. Relocate the appliances to one side of the new, larger area to form an L shaped layout. Or, if your dining room is larger than your kitchen, simply swap rooms. Both of these remodeling options will require rewiring and plumbing updates, but you can incorporate your existing appliances into the new layout.

Upgrading Offers Decent ROI

Sometimes, homeowners use a kitchen remodel (including new, energy efficient appliances) as a way to increase the resale value of their home. According to the 2008-2009 Cost versus Value report, most of the cost of this type of major remodeling job can be recaptured during a sale. Of course, this varies depending on the condition of the real estate market in your area. Whatever your reasons for upgrading your kitchen, you can’t go wrong with more space and better appliances.

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Measure the length and width of the damaged area [square]. Place the patch over this area matching the pattern. Now, lay duct tape around the edges of this patch square, on top of the damaged area. When the patch is securely in place, use a utility knife to cut around the edges of the repair patch and through the old damaged tile. A carpenter’s square serves as a cutting guide.

When you have made the cuts, remove the duct tape, lift off the patch you will use for to replace the damaged area. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the tile and a putty knife to lift the damaged tile. Use a chisel, putty knife,  Goo Gone and a sharp floor scraper to remove the remaining adhesive from the floor underneath.

Apply adhesive to the back of the replacement patch. A notched trowel [1/8" V-shaped notches] should be used to spread the adhesive. Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle as you spread the adhesive. Lay one edge to the floor and lower the patch into place. Starting at the center and working out toward the edges, use a j-roller and pressure to avoid air bubbles and get a solid bond. Apply a thin bead of seam sealer to the outer edges of the patch. Avoid foot traffic across this area for 24 hours.

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Step1: Install 2 x 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the area where you want the sink. Make sure you cover the wall with “water-resistant” drywall.

Step2: Make sure you set the basin and pedestal in the position you want and brace it with 2 x 4’s.  Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor.  Also, make sure you mark your reference points on the wall and the floor through the mounting holes that are in the back of the sink and bottom of the pedestal.

Step3: Put the basin and pedestal to the side.  Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor where you marked your reference holes then reposition the pedestal.  Now anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws.

Step4: Attach the faucet, then set the sink on the pedestal. Make sure the holes in the back of the sink line up with the pilot holes you drilled in the wall, then put lag screws and washers into the wall brace with a ratchet wrench. Make sure not to overtighten the screws.

Final Step

Step5: Time to hook up the drain and add fittings. Don’t forget to caulk between the back of the sink and the wall when you are done with all of the installation.

Now that concludes includes our lesson for the day. Make sure to check with us daily for all of your do-it-yourself needs. Happy installing!!!!

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Concrete Stone

Portland concrete is sometimes used as a stone substitute. The concrete is blended in different natural colors and poured into molds that imitate the shape of real stones. Unlike a stone wall that is built solid, these faux rocks are glued to a substrate to form the façade. If the concrete blocks aren’t attached correctly, this type of siding may come off over time. Otherwise, it is very durable and long lasting.

Plastic Faux Stone

High quality plastics such as polyurethane are molded in sheets for easy installation. These come in a variety of patterns to mimic various stacking methods for real stone. There are plenty of fade resistant color choices as well. Some products offer an insulating value of up to R6 making this siding a potential energy saver.

The material is light enough that no special expertise is needed to affix the “stone” sheets to the exterior of your home. Just be careful to select a product that offers nicely finished edges - otherwise your faux stone siding won’t fool anyone. This type of material can be sprayed down with a hose every 6 months or so to remove dirt. No other maintenance is required.

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First, all interior wall surfaces and trim must be removed. Have all replacement product and necessary tools at hand to install the new product right after removing the old.

You will use: a utility knife, flat pry bar, hammer, scredriver, plywood, reciprocating saw, screws and masking tape.

For doors — Gently remove the interior trim using a pry bar. This trim can be reused upon installation of the new window/door. Use a utility knife to cut away any old caulk between the siding on the exterior door frame.

Casing nails, which secure the door jambs to the framing, should be removed using a flat pry bar. Here is where your reciprocating saw comes into play. Those stubborn nails you can’t remove can be cut away. Now, remove the door from the casing

For windows — Place tape across the window to avoid shattering. Remove the interior trim from the frame with care. Again, this may be reused. Those stubborn nails can be cut with the reciprocating saw.

Your replacement windows or door can now be installed.

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Electric

This type of radiant heating system generally features cables fixed in a looping pattern on a mesh backing. Some manufacturers recommend placing a cork layer or other insulator between your concrete foundation and the heating system for greater energy efficiency. The cable matting is laid down over this substrate and affixed firmly to it. Thinset mortar is poured and leveled as usual (taking care not to damage the underlying electrical system). Finally, the tile is laid down, grouted, and sealed.

An electrical floor heating system can also be used under stone, marble, or wood flooring. Some manufacturers make a product that is simple enough for a DIY job. However, you will want a licensed electrician to handle connecting the heating system to your house’s wiring.

Hydronic

A hydronic system runs heated water through metal pipes to achieve a radiant heating effect. This application is not limited to kitchens and bathrooms but can be used throughout the house as a substitute for traditional central heating. Some products feature piping laid down in grooves cut in aluminum coated wood panels. This increases the efficiency of heating compared to pipes set in gypsum concrete. Carpet as well as hard flooring surfaces can be installed over these floor boards.

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Determine whether you will install the windows yourself or have an expert do this for you. Hiring a contractor to perform this task is more expensive; but a professional will usually complete installation correctly and in a timely manner. This can put your mind at ease - and you won’t have to worry about purchasing all the tools necessary to do the job.

Gather recommendations from organizations (such as the Better Business Bureau) that collect/publish information on local suppliers and contractors. That way, you will be able to select a company that follows industry standards and best practices. Don’t simply hire a handyman to handle this type of job. If you do and something goes wrong, you might have to go to small claims court to resolve the issue.

Safety & Liability

Whenever workers are using tools or ladders on your property, there is the potential for a claim against your homeowner’s policy. Before allowing work to begin, ask to see the contractor’s business license and general liability/workers’ compensation insurance. If any of the contractor’s employees are injured while installing your replacement windows, they will need to file a claim with their employer - not against you.

Warranty & Maintenance

One of the most important aspects of window replacement is the warranty. Understand exactly what components and time period your warranty covers. With a contractor, the workmanship and installation should be covered in addition to the product. Retain a copy of these warranties for your records. During the installation process, ask the contractor to show you how to perform required maintenance to keep your windows in good condition over the years.

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However, as a homeowner you know it is time to buy replacement windows when yours:

• Are beyond repair or not cost effective to repair
• Feature a design or material that is not energy efficient
• Don’t fit the style you want for your home

Materials, Sizing, & Efficiency

Your final purchasing decision will have consequences for years to come, perhaps decades. Invest in high quality materials (other than wood) that will withstand the long-term wear and tear of normal use. Most windows on the market today offer superior performance compared to those typically installed a few decades ago.

Standard sizes today are not necessarily the same as those sold years ago. To make sure your new windows will fit properly, use a tape measure to accurately assess what sizes you need. Then, double check to make sure! You may have to customize the window to fit the space or change the dimensions of the opening. This will increase the material and labor costs necessary to get the job done properly.

Energy savings from high efficiency triple-pane glass windows may offset some of the upfront costs for replacement over the first few years of use. This often makes it reasonable to upgrade - even if there is no apparent damage to your current windows. Check the NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council), Energy Star, and Consumer ratings for more information on this critical topic.

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