Hillways

The Pyrenees

2009-09-26T10:50:00.002+01:00

Professor Higgins may have known a thing or two about phonetics but his understanding of Spanish meteorology was clearly flawed: the rain in Spain does not fall mainly on the plain. Neither does the snow! Our 5-day trek through the Pyrenees (and back again) gave us all 4 seasons with a healthy dump of snow to keep our minds focussed and our sun tan lotion firmly in our sacks. All turned out well in the end though and the trek ended with a memorable descent in hot sunshine through classic alpine pastures to a waiting ice cold beer on a sun terrace that required no ice axe!

The trek was based upon the French Pyrenean village of Gavarnie, seemingly the most visited village in the Pyrenees. Whilst it is a relatively small and unassuming place, it lies close to the head of the Gavarnie valley whose headwall is crowned by the very impressive Cirque de Gavarnie. This vast amphitheatre of vertical rock carries along its skyline the main Pyrenean watershed and international border between France and Spain. This impressive scene is further enhanced by Le Grand Cascade, Europe’s highest waterfall at 243m.

All We Got to See of the Cirque de Gavarnie

The trek started easily enough with an hour’s stroll up the busy mule track towards the Cirque (just follow the droppings). We stopped briefly at the Hôtellerie du Cirque, a rather drab square building which served up a fairly unimpressive lunch as we waited for the rain to start falling – which it duly did just as we left for the climb to the Sarradets Hut. The key to the climb via the steep Échelle des Sarradets route is a narrow path seen rising gently to the south-western corner of the Cirque. This scrambles up steep rock terraces with the occasional help of in-cut steps in the rock before the slope eases on the approach to the refuge. Regrettably, we were soon immersed in thick cloud and were denied any view across the towering cliffs of the Cirque. Painted flashes on the rocks mark the way up the terraces but seemed to disappear as we entered a broad rock-filled gulley with increasing snow patches and a marked drop in temperature! Eventually we reached the Col du Sarradets only to discover we couldn’t find the hut! How embarrassing! Thankfully, after a short ‘this way then that way’ search in the gloom, the square outline of our sanctuary suddenly materialised and we duly arrived at the Refuge des Sarradets (2587m). The hut is basic and modest but is well placed for the short climb to Spain which was to be our destination in the morning.

Approaching the Brèche de Roland - in Summer!

And that morning brought a continuation of thick cloud and a generous layer of fresh snow covering all the rocks. Mid-September felt very strange! After picking up the world’s most expensive packed lunches (er, I mean dry sandwich and apple), we filed up the steep snow slope behind the hut wearing almost everything we had been carrying in our rucksacks. We knew that just above us lay the Brèche de Roland (2807m), a huge gash in the frontier ridge between France and Spain. This was to have been one of the highlights of the trip but as it turned out, the most impressive thing about it was the way I almost broke my nose bumping into it! Still, the weather was bound to be better when we were to return a few days later.... Once in Spain there followed a tricky descent over snow-covered boulders of various sizes which concentrated the mind somewhat! Eventually, the sun finally broke through and the snow melted away to reveal a surprising number of edelweiss clinging on to the last vestiges of summer. We also saw the first of many, many chamois, a usually shy member of the antelope family which seems to have shed its inhibitions in this part of the Pyrenees. Marmots too were very much in evidence as they scurried about trying to grab a last bit of food before their long hibernation.

The Ordesa Canyon

A circling traverse over limestone terraces brought us at last to bright blue sunshine and the northern rim of the very impressive Ordesa Canyon. This we followed above the towering sandstone cliffs whilst bearded vultures or lammergeiers soared overhead to our home for the next 2 nights: the busy, but well equipped, Refugio de Goriz (2170m). This popular hut is the only manned refuge within the Ordesa National Park and it shows! It will certainly benefit from a new building and facilities which are currently under construction and due to open in 2010.

Day 3 started cool with cloud on the tops and we wasted no time in starting up the well-cairned path which was to take us to our goal for the day: Mt Perdu (Mt Perdido to the Spanish; 3335m). The path climbs up and over a series of grass and rock terraces until you come to a very British mountain scene – a small glacial lake, Lago Helado. Today this marked not only a sharp right turn in the route, but also a change in seasons. Suddenly we were in full winter conditions as we climbed through the gloom, first along a thin rocky ridge and then steeply up a broad snow-filled gully. The snow was soft enough to preclude the need for ice axes and crampons and we had the advantage of other climbers’ boot-steps which prevented the climb from becoming an unremitting slog up to an unseen skyline. Eventually though, the slope eased and a snowy saddle led us on to the final summit pyramid and the fairly modest summit of the third highest mountain in the Pyrenees. No view of course but that didn’t detract from the elation of achieving one of the main aims of the trek, particularly in very challenging conditions. We returned to the hut by the same route to be greeted by hot early afternoon sunshine which called for a few hours’ sunbathing and a welcome respite from walking with a sack. Another night in the Goriz Hut enabled us to once more sample the delights of a large number of fellow humans attempting to sleep the night away in close proximity!

The Summit of Mt Perdu

The next day promised to be the highlight of the trek with a traverse of the southern cliffs of the Ordesa Canyon, a steep descent to the canyon floor and a long climb back up and over the Brèche de Roland to the Refuge des Sarradets. In the event, things turned out rather differently – although the day ended well and in some comfort! From the hut, a gradual descent leads to a rock step which forms the canyon’s headwall (the Circo de Soaso) down which the path zig-zags before picking up the 1900m contour which it then follows. This path is known as the Faja de Pelay. As the canyon floor descends, you end up getting higher and higher above the fast-flowing Rio Arazas and views start to open out northwards towards the main Pyrenees watershed.

Mt Perdu & the Ordesa Canyon Headwall

Three hours from the Goriz hut and shortly after pausing at the Mirador de Calcilarruego, a small walled viewpoint which offers spectacular views in all directions (including vertically downwards), a steep 600m descent leads down to the canyon floor where a convenient bridge provides the crossing point for the river. Our plans to climb up to the Brèche were dealt a mortal blow when 2 groups coming the other way announced that the climb out of the northern side of the canyon involved not a steep path with chains (clavijas) for assistance, but full-on via ferrata for which we were not at all equipped. After some rapid re-planning and with the help of some local park rangers who just happened along, we decided to retrace our steps back to the canyon floor and follow the GR11 footpath to the western part of the Park and aim for a small refuge at Bujaruelo. This all worked like clockwork and the day ended with us ensconced in a very comfortable accommodation with comfy beds, a choice of food and an operating bar! Sheer luxury lad!

Canyon Colours and Autumn Shades

Our final day was reminiscent of a Scottish glen with a steep climb up through a hanging valley to a high pass (Port de Boucharo) and a re-crossing of the French/Spanish border. The trail resembles a Highlands stalking path as it zig-zags up grassy slopes. As we approached the col the apparently random flight of a few butterflies materialised into a steady stream of them flying quite purposefully over the border. It was André (who is an authority on such matters) who pointed out that this col is a high point on a key migration route for winged creatures heading to Africa for the winter. So deliberate was their flight that we had to duck occasionally to avoid them flying into us! There followed a memorable descent in bright warm sunshine down through the grassy Vallée des Pouey Aspé, across the delightful Plateau de Bellevue and down finally into Gavarnie itself.

Vallée des Pouey Aspé

This 5-day trek takes in all the major scenic features of this part of the Pyrenees: the Cirque du Gavarnie with Le Grande Cascade, the Brèche de Roland and the Ordesa Canyon. For good measure, the ascent of Mt Perdu adds an interesting climb to an already impressive trek. But don’t forget your ice axe, particularly in summer!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/alpine/alpine.htm

Meall nan Tarmachan

2009-09-12T10:00:00.007+01:00

Meall Garbh and Bidean nan Eanach From Meall nan Tarmachan

Saturday September 12th was always going to be a special, if difficult, day this year; a day requiring the distraction of an engaging Highland hill offering peace, solitude and time to reflect. What better hill to remember a wonderful companion and some truly magical times than Meall nan Tarmachan, my last Munro on my first round almost 10 years to the day in 1999. This very accessible mountain, perched high above Loch Tay and the well-placed Highland village of Killin, is one of the most popular hills in the southern Highlands. Essentially, it is a collection of 4 tops linked by a real Highland gem - the entertaining ‘Ptarmigan Ridge’ which twists and turns for about 4km over and around countless hillocks and depressions. This was my third ascent and unbroken autumnal sunshine and warm temperatures conspired to produce a memorable day deserving of the date.

Ben Lawers

The mountain is best accessed from the small road that climbs up above Loch Tay and over into the western end of Glen Lyon. A short way past the now closed National Trust for Scotland visitor centre (regrettably more functional than aesthetic in design), a junction on the left with a Scottish Hydro access track provides parking for several cars. Walk along the track for 400m before branching off to the right and follow a good quality path which intercepts the southern ridge of the Munro. Passing a spot height at 923m, the path descends slightly before climbing sharply up grassy slopes to the summit of Meall nan Tarmachan (hill of the ptarmigans; 1044m). As you approach the summit, the rest of the Ptarmigan ridge – and most of the southern Highlands - opens up and the views stay with you for the remainder of the traverse. Today the late afternoon sun greatly added to the scenery by highlighting all the intervening hillocks and depressions between the 4 main tops of the ridge. Today’s visitors to the summit included a stern-looking gentleman with a heavy rucksack whose interpersonal skills sadly did not extend to saying hello to his fellow hillwalkers, a group of valiant walkers who had gamely achieved this high top despite having physiques not generally associated with flogging up Munros ( well done them), and a couple of septuagenarians who offered everyone the hope of growing old gracefully whilst completing an umpteenth round of Munros! Further afield, wide views stretched out in every direction with Ben Nevis conspicuous to the north west and the Glen Lochay hills filling the near distance to the west. Eastwards, the Ben Lawers range filled the horizon whilst to the south, you could just detect the hazy Pentland Hills beyond Edinburgh.

Bidean nan Eachan From Meall Garbh

From the summit, I walked easily down the grassy slope heading south-west to a delightful col with 2 tiny lochans before a very modest climb to the equally delightful sharp rocky summit of Meall Garbh (rough hill; 1026m), the central peak of the range. Those not planning to traverse the whole ridge should at least visit this top thereby gaining some flavour for what the ridge has to offer. A good path descends south from just east of Meall Garbh and connects with the Hydro track that takes you back to your car. Sturdier souls or those with more time should continue west descending steeply to the next col before climbing once again around countless knolls and depressions to the next top: Beinn nan Eachan (hill of the horse; 1000m). From here, descend steeply down a grassy slope to one final col before turning south and traversing the lowest top on the ridge, Creag na Caillich (crag of the old woman; 916m). This hill’s eastern crags makes a direct descent into the corrie difficult so either return to the last col and descend south-eastwards, or continue south until the crags can be turned and then head east to pick up the original Hydro track back to the car.

The View South to Ben Vorlich and Stuc a' Chroin

The complete traverse can easily fill a fine summer’s day; alternatively, the eastern horseshoe traversing Meall nan Tarmachan and Meall Garbh would suit a half-day or something for winter! In either case, save the Ptarmigan Ridge for a clear, sunny day and see it at its best!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Swiss Alps - Zermatt

2009-07-16T20:45:00.006+01:00

Castor and Pollux

Having relocated to Zermatt from Zinal (see previous entry), the plan was to continue with fitness and acclimatisation walks with the eventual aim of climbing one of the 4000m snow peaks in the area and even perhaps the mighty Monte Rosa, the second highest mountain in the Alps! One day was spent on ropework and basic climbing/glacier crossing techniques, and another rockclimbing on the Rifflehorn (2927m) where the local guides like to take their prospective Matterhorn clients to check on their basic climbing skills. Our plan to climb the Monte Rosa was scuppered by poor weather but we managed a further 3 days of alpine walking which included a near success on one of the 4000m peaks above Zermatt.

Oberrothorn (3414m)

Not a very photogenic mountain but a useful one for acclimatisation! A quick ride up the Sunnegga funicular railway deposited us above the tree line in bright sunshine. This put us in excellent shape to traverse through classic alpine walking terrain to the Fluhalp Hut (2616m) for drinks various and a welcome breather before the real climb of the day. From the hut, a ski track leads up through a rock-strewn landscape to a windy col just below 3000m where some small lingering snow patches entertained the party. Then it was up a well-engineered path that climbs steadily up to the rocky belvedere of the Oberrothorn from which wide views open out in every direction. On returning to the col we climbed up over the Unterrothorn (3103m) before descending down a tightly zig-zagging path and back to Sunnegga. The Unterrothorn is a good location to take in the sunrise over the Zermatt skyilne following a short nighstop at the Fluhalp Hut.

Mettelhorn (3406m)

No leisurely walk-in today, let alone welcoming funicular! No, just turn left in the High Street and climb, climb, climb! This is a minimum 8hr day involving almost 1800m of climbing. And it’s a steep, unrelenting climb as well up past the Edelweiss Restaurant and up into the Trift gorge. Fortunately, our fitness and acclimatisation programme was working and the height was gained reasonably comfortably. In a little under 2 hrs we were at the Hotel du Trift, a large mountain hut with a stunning location below the Ober Gabelhorn and Zinalrothorn. Here, the path turns right and continues climbing to an exposed col above the Hohlicht glacier at just above 3100m. The upper reaches of the climb were covered in late spring snow and a cautious detour eliminated much of the good time we had made in our workmanlike ascent! From the col, the Mettelhorn finally comes into view – a rock pyramid situated 800m across a snowfield which, although generally tame, deserves prudent respect in case of any lurking crevasses. The Mettelhorn gives excellent views down the Mattertal, effectively the Zermatt valley, as well as a front row seat of the mighty Weisshorn, one of the Alps’ most graceful (and highest) peaks. We returned the same way, foregoing any refreshment at the Hotel du Trift in favour of hot chocolate and carrot cake at the Edelweiss!

Castor (4223m)

The mountains will always be there tomorrow; the secret is to make sure you are! A climber who sets out with those wise words firmly lodged in his mind, will never let a sense of failure cloud what would otherwise be a quality mountain day! Thus it was that our unsuccessful attempt at Castor remains as a positive memory of a great day out surrounded by snow, ice and rock with much of it spent close to 4000m. In order to limit the climb to one day, we took the Klein Matterhorn gondola up above the ski slopes and started the glacier traverse from the top station at 3817m. Bedecked with climbing harnesses, helmets, ice axes and crampons, our small party of family and friends roped up and trailed over the Breithorn Pass, traversing below the Breithorn and Pollux until we stood at the foot of the snow dome of Castor, one of the easier 4000m alpine peaks. All the time, however, dark clouds were approaching from the west and as we began our final climb heavy snow showers could be clearly seen over the Zermatt valley. Just after passing the 4000m point in our steady plod up the final icy slope to the summit we called a halt and turned to retrace our steps back to the gondola station. We still had 45 mins to go to the summit, a further 2 hrs for the return and the weather didn’t look like it was going to do us any favours. Under the circumstances, it was a prudent if disappointing decision. At least the day gave the group good experience of the factors involved in tackling the higher alpine peaks and proved to be a useful introduction to glacier travel. The views weren’t bad either – we even got to see Mont Blanc before the clouds rolled in!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/alpine/alpine.htm

Swiss Alps - Zinal

2009-07-08T10:16:00.003+01:00

The Zinalrothorn and Besso High Above the Zinal Valley

The first part of the Hillways’ annual foray to the Swiss Alps involved 2 days in the Val d’Anniviers based in the small, but well-placed village of Zinal which is perched at the end of the road in this easternmost part of the French-speaking part of Switzerland. There is only one cable-car in Zinal so you have to work for every bit of your height if you want to get close to the numerous high peaks that encircle the head of the valley. You are only a stone’s throw from Zermatt but the short walk between valleys would involve a challenging blend of rock, glacier and 4000m peak - so most prefer to take the car!

Besso (3667m)

Day 1 threatened to alienate the illustrious leader from the group as I led them straight past the gondola station and straight up the steep 800m slope over which the Sorebois cable car effortlessly glides! This was as much to do with fitness and acclimatisation as it was to save money and I’m sure the others appreciated that fact (if ony they’d said as much)! Once above the tree-line we traversed south along a delightful alpine path that should have afforded spell-binding views of the mighty Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn and Ober Gabelhorn, alpine giants that form the eastern skyline of the valley. Today, however, cloud intervened and denied us all but a glimpse of these alpine monsters. A 2-hr traverse high above the valley floor and across a decidedly dodgy-looking band of recent landslide debris brought us to the green pastures of La Lé and an easy descent to our first mountain hut of the trip, the Cabane Petit Mountet. This hut is perched precariously on top of the crumblimg lateral moraine of the rapidly receding Zinal glacier but a comforting hot chocolate helped take my mind off the implied state of the hut’s foundations! An hour’s leisurely descent in steady rain returned us to the welcoming ambience of the Auberge Alpina in Zinal.

Starting up the Pas du Chasseur

Day 2 started with more rain and some unseasonal fresh snow down to 2000m which precluded the planned climb to the Col de Milon via the yet-to-be-visited Cabane d’Arpitetta. Instead, we opted for a short walk back up the valley to locate the chain-assisted scramble up the Pas du Chasseur so we could get used to some exposed rock and basic ropework. The climb falls well short of graded via ferrata (the ascent of exposed rock walls using in-place ladders, chains and assorted ironmongery), but is nontheless an interesting introduction to assisted ascension techniques! A couple of hours of various ups and downs using the chains gave us some useful and entertaining introduction to steep ground by which time the sun came out and we headed back to begin our transfer around to Zermatt for the rest of the trip.

Lunch Beside La Napisence

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/alpine/alpine.htm

Return to Skye - Black Cuillin

2009-06-08T02:32:00.001+01:00

Cuillin Ridge - Southern Section

Early June saw good weather this year in the NW Highlands and on Skye. Fair weather and a brisk wind dried out the Cuillin Ridge and made for excellent walking, scrambling and climbing conditions. Dr Darren was kept busy with a steady stream of clients and I went along to see the great man at work guiding Frank over the southern part of the Ridge on a day encompassing 4 Munros and an infamous rock climbing obstacle!

Starting from the Glen Brittle campsite on a gorgeous morning, we had only been walking about 15 minutes when Darren declared a snake in the grass – an adder! Sure enough, there at our feet silently weaving its sinuous way across the path and into the grass was a living breathing example of Britain’s only poisonous snake! Having failed to persuade the good Doctor to pick the thing up so we could get a decent photo, it was left to Frank and I to snap away as it made its escape. Our best effort is here:

Adder! (you'll have to use your zoom to see it)!

After all this excitement the rest of the walk up and into Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda had only the Doctor’s erudite observations on dubious geological titbits or even more dubious looking climbs to entertain us. Frank and I did our best to look interested whilst dreaming silently of joining the Ramblers Association! Fortunately, those strange thoughts soon passed and before we could tie a map-case around our necks we found ourselves imparting some route-finding advice to some (very pretty) European neighbours who were unsure of the best way through the rock landscape. Then it was up to the lochan high in the corrie, pausing at the ‘ringing rocks’, a hollow sounding igneous rock which lets out a surprising musical ‘ting’ when tapped. A short, steep climb took us up on to the ridge itself and a short walk led to the first Munro: Sgurr nan Eag (Notched Peak, 924m).

After surveying the wide expanse of sunlit sea and islands to the south and west, not to mention the distant peaks of Knoydart and Kintail, we commenced our hours of joyful scrambling up and down and along this finest of all British mountain ridges. Copious use of the hands and arm muscles do take some of the strain off your legs but it is still hard and thirsty work and the rough rock (great for grip) takes its toll on soft hands and fingertips. Cuillin Finger can stay with you for days if you aren’t a regular member of a chain gang! Retracing our steps and continuing along the ridge, we contoured around the rock tower of Caisteal and climbed steadily up to the musically sounding Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn (sounds like Sgurr Doo na Darven; Black Peak of the Two Mountains, 938m). Here we had to leave the main ridge for a short detour to capture the second Munro of the day: Sgurr Dubh Mor (Big Black Peak,944m). The latter is only 6m higher than its sibling on the main ridge but its best not to dwell on such statistics as you spend the best part of an hour clambering down from the ridge and up a series of complicated terraces and gulleys to capture the Munro – before going all the way back again!

Last Smile Before the TD Gap!

This minor inconvenience, however, was nothing compared to the fiendish Doctor’s next treat. A little way north of Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn, and without any prior warning whatsoever, one’s confident progress along the ridge is abruptly halted by a deep gash of what looks suspiciously like fresh air in front of you. This is the infamous Thearlaich-Dubh Gap (usually referred to as the TD Gap).

The south side of this ‘challenge’ (you can guess who called it that) is a 30’ vertical wall whilst the northern side stretches to 80’ and is just as vertical! I looked at Frank, Frank looked at me; nobody looked at the Doctor! It didn’t matter, he was quite intent on forcing us to take up religion (it didn’t last) as he set up his belay to lower us down into this horrendous looking defile. Once down, the way up the other side looked just as improbable (sorry, impossible) as it had done from the top of the southern wall. The next 45 mins was a bit of a blur but largely consisted of me sitting in this cold, damp and very dismal wind tunnel as McAulay hustled his way up the smooth-sided chimney groove that represents the escape route out of this charmless spot.

Climbing Out of the TD Gap

It’s not a pretty climb even by an expert (none of those around from what I could see) but eventually his nibs announced success. Having set up a belay, he then coaxed, cajoled, tempted and otherwise bullied poor Frank up the same polished rock whilst I slowly succumbed to hypothermia. Regrettably, I was still alive – just – when it was my turn to scamper up after them! I’m not sure if scamper accurately describes the Gault patent method of chimney groove climbing technique. Sufficient to say that after a series of huffs, puffs and fairly inglorious scrabbling for spitefully placed handholds and out-of-sight footholds, I was up and back into the land of sunshine and horizontality!

Sgur Alasdair

The ascent of Skye’s highest peak was always going to be a doddle after this and sure enough, a short walk from the TD Gap brought all 3 of us to the Cuillin’s highest point: Sgurr Alasdair (Alexander’s Peak, 993m). On a good day you can see St Kilda from here way out in the Atlantic to the north-west. Ben Nevis, in the other direction, appears to be almost a close neighbour in comparison. Alasdair is a fine sharp-pointed summit with dramatic close-up views down into Coire Lagan to complement the impressive distant landmarks. The Inaccessible Pinnacle of Sgurr Dearg is in clear view now, its wafer-thin vertical wedge of rock inviting those who have survived the TD Gap towards their next big adventure!

Innaccessible Pinnacle

From Sgurr Alasdair we descended to the top of the Great Stone Shoot – a popular, if unappealing loose-scree route up and down this mountain – before traversing over Sgurr Thearlaich (Charlie’s Peak, 977m). Not a Munro, but nevertheless a fine roof-top summit ridge best done (as I have always done it) in warm, early evening sunshine. A complicated scramble leads down from the end of the roof to a small break in the ridge before the final Munro of our day: Sgurr Mhic Coinnich (Mackenzie’s Peak, 948m). This peak can either be tackled directly up another of those improbable-looking chimney-corners or, as Frank and I chose, by the much more pleasing traverse along Collie’s Ledge before doubling back along the ridge to the summit.

Collie's Ledge

All we had to do then was carefully weave our way down into Coire Lagan before striding manfully off into the setting sun and the green fields of Glen Brittle. The day took almost 11 hours which illustrates how deceptive the Cuillin can be. The distances may not be great, but everything takes time and throw in some rock climbing and associated ropework, and you know you’re going to have to rush for your steak and chips and celebratory dram of Talisker at the Old Inn in Carbost!

Sgurr Mhic Coinnich and Sgurr Alasdair From Glen Brittle

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Return to Skye - Red Cuillin

2009-06-02T11:45:00.002+01:00

Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Beag Across Loch Slapin

Back on Skye and an opportunity to try something different: the Red Cuillin hills in the east of the island. These rounded granite hills contrast markedly with the more famous and popular serrated pinnacles of the volcanic Black Cuillin which make up the Skye Ridge. As you approach Broadford shortly after crossing the Skye Bridge a clutch of prominent rounded peaks loom up above the small town. Foremost amongst these and seemingly guarding Broadford in a protective embrace is Beinn na Caillich (peak of the old woman). This surprisingly high hill (732m) is connected to two similar hills, Beinn Dearg Mhor (709m) and Beinn Dearg Bheag (584m) and the circuit of all 3 makes for a fine half-day’s hill-walking.

Beinn Dearg Bheag and Beinn na Caillich From Broadford

The hills can be accessed directly on foot from Broadford although some may like to leave a car at Old Corry, a couple of miles to the west. Leave the road a little before the first house and head up over climbing moorland aiming for the right-hand skyline of Beinn na Caillich. Avoid a lochan to the left and clamber over some boulders to access easier, but steeper ground up the right-hand skyline. A sketchy path helps and the views widen quickly as you climb. A huge cairn crowns the summit which gives the views you’d expect from the easternmost hill on Skye. To the east, the mainland Munros of Torridon, Kintail and Knoydart can be clearly seen whilst westwards, the Skye Ridge and the other Red Cuillin peaks fill the view. Immediately below you, Coire Fearchair makes for an impressive sight right under your feet! The huge cairn can be seen for miles around and is said to be the burial place of a Norwegian princess from the time of the Viking occupation of Skye. According to legend, she wanted to feel the winds from her homeland around her grave. She would not have been disappointed today although, typically, she failed to show up in person whilst I was there! And I waited ages!

Beinn Dearg Bheag

The going is thankfully much easier as a ridge is followed initially westwards towards a col before sweeping up to the summit of Beinn Dearg Mhor (big red hill). From here, there follows a very tricky steep descent on the most unhelpful type of scree southeast to Bealach Coire Sgreamhach (pass of the scree!). Take care here; trekking poles will help aid balance and keep you upright as you descend. From the bealach, continue up the other side to Beinn Dearg Bheag (little red hill). On this walk, the hills just keep getting lower! From here, head back to Old Corry via the eastern ridge. There is a path initially, but this peters out as you reach the lower slopes and the final mile is over sometimes boggy moorland. Today, this was home to a herd of frisky cows and what I hoped was a non-too frisky bull! I survived long enough to persuade Darren to come and pick me up on the offer of a free beer at the Broadford Inn!

So next time you hurtle over the Skye Bridge bound for the greater challenge of the Black Cuillin, spare a thought for these graceful red hills and and make some time to try a day out on them; you will not be disappointed. But don’t bank on that Norwegian Princess turning up!

She's Under There Somewhere!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Torridon

2009-05-30T11:01:00.004+01:00

Liathach

We’re always being told (well, I’m always telling people) that May is the driest and sunniest month in the NW Highlands. Oh Yeah? Well I know an Ironman, a veterinary surgeon, a supermum and a princess who might question that previously held presumption. It all came good in the end as you will see but along the way our week in Torridon exposed us to the full range of UK 4-season mountain weather. Any prospective undergraduate thinking of writing a thesis on the subject might like to book early for next year! Still, such an eclectic mix of backgrounds ensured we all now know a lot more than we did about the malting process in making beer, what sensible precautions to take before peering into a cow’s rear end, what Easter is really all about and what colour bricks make up the Scottish Highlands! A cosy self-catering bungalow in Kinlochewe provided the base for this springtime splash & scramble up some of the best mountains in Scotland.

Slioch

Slioch (980m)

An ideal hill to start with: an hour’s level walking to get the legs moving takes you to a delightful spot where the path crosses the fast-flowing Fhasaigh burn complete with stunning waterfall and deep pools - just as well there’s a bridge here! The path turns right here and climbs steadily up Gleann Bianasdail and up into Slioch’s central corrie which provides the only weakness in ‘The Spear’s’ summit ramparts. The path gets a big boggy in the base of the corrie but soon returns to a good quality hill path as it climbs up on to the summit plateau. There are 2 summits: the first has an OS trig point on it, but the highest point of the mountain lies a further 200m beyond from where a vast panorama opens up in all directions – allegedly! All we could see today was each other! Given the absence of grand views to the north into the Fisherfield forest, we dispensed with the option of traversing across to Sgurr an Tuill Bhàin. Instead, we retraced our steps downward pausing only for a quick lunch by the lochans. We could have shortened the day by a couple of miles but Supermum wouldn’t let us take a car so we had to walk ALL the way from the cottage and ALL the way back! What are hillwalking holidays coming to with these sort of people around! It was just as well we had Gault’s famous fish pie to look forward to!

Beinn Damh

Beinn Damh (903m)

On the way to climb Beinn Alligin it became clear we were in for another cloudy day so would miss all the stunning cliff scenery and much of the fun of traversing the Horns of Alligin. So we elected instead to climb a fine Corbett: Beinn Damh, a long 5Km ridge whose summit just happens to lie at the far end of it! An old stalkers path leads up through trees and rhododendron bushes from the recently re-developed Torridon Inn complex and climbs high above a deep gorge before opening out on to the open hillside. Supermum, having unequivocally proved that size does matter after all, had decided to remove the world’s biggest camera from her rucksack from the previous day and tore off up the mountain with the rest of us in her wake! After this, we smuggled the camera into the bottom of her rucksack in order to slow her down! The much-repaired path leads a good way up the corrie of Toll Ban towards the main ridge of the mountain but turns a bit messy and braided near the skyline. Once on the bealach however, it’s good walking underfoot before the tiresome quartzite boulders of the summit tops is encountered. These remain until the eventual summit is reached after 2 intervening tops. Again, a summit panorama was denied to us by the cloud so we retraced our steps – mind the navigation on the way back to ensure you take the north-west ridge (not the northern one) off the 868m top. Half-way down a clearance offered welcome views of Liathach’s southern terraces and a surprising invitation from Marie left Julie a little perplexed and Emma went very quiet! Apart from that, the descent was uneventful!

Beinn Alligin

Beinn Alligin (922m/986m)

At last we had our day in the sun! Well, it was bright and clear anyway with just the odd heavy shower to keep the waterproofs from drying out completely. A car park at the foot of Coire Mhic Nobuill between Beinn Alligin and Liathach gives access to a good path which leads directly towards and up into Coir nan Laogh. This convenient corrie leads almost directly to the first Munro of the day: Tom na Gruagaich (922m) whose northern and eastern cliffs fall vertically directly from the summit trig point. From here you can see the whole of Beinn Alligin laid out before you, a stunning vista which is reason enough to keep this mountain for a clear day! Our ascent was enlivened by the curious sight of ‘Map Case Mike’, a bespectacled, seriously academic type-looking walker who insisted on hanging a bloody great map case around his neck (why do people do that???) whilst toiling up the mountain in windy conditions! We took bets on whether he’d get airborne or garrotte himself first! Occasional snow showers accompanied us down and up to Alligin’s highest point: Sgurr Mhor (986m), whose summit cone is rent by the Eag Dhubh – a dramatic, deep cleft in the mountain which creeps up on you unannounced. We descended steeply and then enjoyed an hour’s fun scrambling over the impressive looking, but straightforward Horns of Alligin: 3 eroded sandstone towers/ridges where anyone can play at being a rock climber.

The Horns of Alligin

At one point this gallant leader had to run ahead and rescue a damsel in distress who had got herself stuck on a rock ledge whilst her bloke went off to inspect the view! Men - Pah! Then it was steeply down beside a white-water burn in pleasant late afternoon sunlight as the Princess led a forced march (or was it a run) back to the car that left even the Ironman speechless! Do save this ‘Jewel of Torridon’ for a clear and preferably sunny day and follow this clockwise route. That way you have the horns to look forward to after the main summits and you enjoy a pleasant walk-out (or run) into the setting sun!

The Applecross Hills

Applecross

A return to low cloud encouraged a wee bit of sightseeing and as Supermum’s previous hard line approach to walking every possible footstep had softened (Merlot is such a powerful relaxant), we decided to drive to Applecross up over the switchbacks of the Bealach na Bà and maybe take in one of the 2 Corbetts that sit comfortably within a short stroll of the summit of that pass. A brief visit to the location for Monty Hall’s recent BBC series of life on a croft and an agreeable lunch at the Applecross Inn (only chips of the week I’ll have you know) preceded a wee amble over to Sgurr a’ Chaorachain (792m), most of it in cloud, naturally! We spent much of the return journey listening to Ironman – newly elected President of the Ford Focus Admiration Society - extolling the virtues of the Focus (one of which he owns) over the VW Golf (one of which he clearly doesn’t)! I ask you!

Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe (993m/1010m)

Whilst my deft matching of appropriate mountains to fit the daily weather conditions had helped save the more stunning peaks for the better days, we were now running out of choices. Only 2 days left and only 2 big mountains left to do! Consequently, it was bite the bullet time and we were forced to admit that today we would have to clamber up and along Beinn Eighe’s twisting 10Km ridge in pretty desperate conditions! Sure enough, we had this huge mountain to ourselves. An excellent path leads up from Glen Torridon up into Coire an Laoigh before turning into a steep shaley scrabble up on to the skyline. After climbing up to the trig point we made a small 200m diversion to capture the first of the mountain’s 2 Munros, Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m). It’s amazing to think that this summit was only accorded full Munro status in the 1997 Munro revision, particularly in light of today’s struggle up through the wind and rain. The rest of the day was spent mainly head down in and out of showers and in and in of cloud. I just knew the others were so grateful for my really interesting, informative and stimulating observations on subjects as diverse as solifluction levels, fucoid beds and pipe rock! Oh and there was a very occasional reference to the Pyrenees from Julie who may just have been there! In the middle of all this we stumbled upon the mountain’s highest point: Ruadh-stac Môr (1010m), had some lunch, and back-tracked to the trig point above Coire an Laoigh. Here we decided a prompt return to the glen, the car and Emma’s Thai chicken curry was preferable (but only slightly, of course) to a further 3hr tromp through the rain over Beinn Eighe’s eastern ridges! I think the party were grateful for my helpful insights into butterworts and louseworts on the way down; they just forgot to say so..... One worrying development concerning our otherwise very clever vet was her inclination to start unilaterally adding Munros to some mountains. On subsequent drives down Glen Torridon, she convinced herself that a subsidiary top of Beinn Eighe was higher than the Munro! As if the week wasn’t long enough!

Liathach

Liathach (1055m/1023m)

We always save the best until last with Hillways and this week it all came good in the end. Mighty Liathach, Scotland’s finest mainland mountain, stunning from all directions, rather than An Teallach’s asymmetric splendour (the grass slopes of ‘The Forge’s western slopes are no match for The Grey One’s cavernous northern corries). Liathach offers no comforting walk-in from the road, it’s all steeply uphill from the outset. The distances – if not the height – are short though and we made the skyline ridge in 90 minutes. From here it is always worth investing a little time and effort to visit the eastern-most top of Liathach which gives a fantastic view along the mountain as well as a wide panorama of Beinn Eighe (useful if you’ve spent the previous day on that mountain in cloud)! The next few hours were spent in an entertaining and scenically stunning traverse of one of Scotland’s finest ridges, the first part of which culminates in the highest point on the mountain: Spidean Choire Leith (1055m).

Holding Tight on Am Fasarinen!

Lunch here in warm sunshine and under blue skies is one of life’s real pleasures although one fellow walker was left speechless when he unexpectedly happened upon the Princess engaged in doing what a girl has to do as he approached what he thought was going to be the high point of his day! After this first Munro it was down the awkward quartzite boulders of the summit cone to the beginning of an hour’s fun traversing the eroded sandstone pinnacles of Am Fasarinen. At this point, ‘Nigel’ happened upon us declaring himself lost and in need of direction. So our party of 5 briefly became 6 as we snaked our way over, along and around a succession of rock scrambles with yawning gaps below our feet and dear old Nigel bringing up the rear!

Ignoring the Drop!

Eventually, the fun ended and we were deposited on a wide, grassy section of the ridge before the final climb of the day – and week - up on to Mullach an Rathain (1023m). Here we bade a tearful farewell to Nigel as well as Marie’s emotionally-scarred unwitting voyeur and began our final descent back down into Glen Torridon. A lovely 30min stroll up the glen in 25 degree heat and with the sun on our backs brought our week to a fitting and memorable end. I’d even run out of things to say about the lousewort!

Happy Days!

A Rucksack-full of Memories

Even the best of times must come to an end and this wild, windy, but occasionally sun-kissed, week in Torridon was no exception. Wonderful company must fragment and go it’s own way and a rucksack-full of memories is all we can truly retain. We duly left early on Saturday morning to reclaim our own lives. Kev went home to fix his partner’s exploding car, Julie went home to prepare for a short walk in the Pennine Alps, Emma went home to try (unsuccessfully) to convince her children that mountain climbing was cool and Marie went home in search of a better life. For me, it was a new start and a return to Skye for a date with the Good Doctor and a Norwegian Princess! More anon.......

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart

2009-05-19T12:28:00.017+01:00

The Approach From Mallaig

One day, The Professor, the Teacher and Superman gathered at Mallaig harbour to go Munro-bagging in Knoydart! I was leading 3 of Darren’s clients from http://www.hebrideanpathways.co.uk/ on a 4-day walkathon over the 3 Munros on this near-deserted peninsula of quintessential Scottish Highlands. The weather was on the good side of great and ensured clear views from all 3 summits and suntans all-round! We were staying in Torrie Shieling bunkhouse near Inverie, the only settlement on a peninsula that used to be home to several hundreds of people before sheep, deer and autocratic landlords conspired to drive them from their homes and away to the coast and then across the ocean! Logistics is the key to a successful Knoydart trip so the leader forgetting his towel and, more importantly, the spaghetti, made for an inauspicous start. Thanfully, clients Peter, Ray and Chris - and, unusually, Darren - were very kind and didn’t really go on about it very much........! Anyway, my delicious Bolognese sauce doesn’t require any pasta accompaniment, so there!

Meall Buidhe - and that Memorial!

A morning ferry from Mallaig on Day 1 ensured time was available to walk up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial (a previous landowner’s disproportionate memorial to his family) and up Glean Meadail to climb Meall Buidhe (946m). From here there are good views to the east over the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and north across Choire Odhair to a tantalisingly close (but not THAT close) Luinne Bheinn, a second Munro that can be combined with Meall Buidhe to make a satisfying 2-Munro day. Today, however, a strong wind and travel fatigue combined to encourage us to descend Meall Buidhe’s long western ridge that leads in the general direction of our bunkhouse – a significant factor in today’s decision-making process! So it was back down into Gleann Meadail and along the Barrisdale track and past the Brockett Memorial, for some delicious Bolognese sauce! Pasta is so over-rated don’t you think?

Ladhar Bheinn

Day 2 was reserved for mighty Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) – pronounced Larven - a big mountain with more than its fair share of stunning rock architecture, impressive ridges and cavernous corries. There are no short cuts from Inverie so you have to work for your summit! Choose the right day though and you will be rewarded with spectacular views from the most westerly Munro on the Scottish mainland. In particular, the views north across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and Beinn Sgritheall and down to Barrisdale in the noth-east emphasise Ladhar Bheinn’s splendid isolation. After my ceaseless attempts to get everyone interested in mountain flowers, I was greatly heartened when I thought I detected a nanosecond of excitement when Superman discovered an orchid! It didn’t last! Our approach gave us a bird’s eye view of the mountain’s pre-eminent feature: Coire Dhorrcail, a huge steep-sided corrie shaped by earth movements and ice into a stunning, silent ampitheatre. For a mountain with such stunning approach climbs, Ladhar Bheinn has a curious summit – a tent-shaped ridge complete with 3 summit markers (a bit like Beinn a’Ghlo – see April): 2 cairns and a half-destroyed OS trig point! The high point is the central pimple. All of this comes as some surprise after the ups and downs of the outlying ridges, but its very pleasant to wander along this level 500m of ridge and your departure should not be rushed (saving for, perhaps, the onset of hypothermia)!

Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

We descended the west ridge towards An Diollaid and peeled off down to Folach where a spot of rain tried to dampen our spirits. But it needn’t have bothered – the 7 kms walk out along a forest track was sufficient! The Teacher helped us pass the time with a sort of mobile pub quiz with subjects ranging from US presidents to Top of the Pops! The Professor was very kind and let me win! As it turned out, rain gave way to a beautiful sunny evening and venison casserole at the Old Forge with a glass of Merlot seemed an appropriate signing-off for a big mountain day - 9½ hrs!

Luinne Bheinn

The final hill day saw us stride manfully once more up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial and all the way up to Mam Barrisdale before actually getting on to our mountain and achieving our third and final Knoydart Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m). Again, warm sunshine adorned the summit and spectacular views in every direction capped a rewarding climb. We resisted the dubious temptation to re-take Meall Buidhe on the way home and instead, retraced our steps (exactly), our tired legs slowly consuming the long miles back down the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial.............

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Sunshine on Skye!

2009-05-14T21:09:00.000+01:00

Cuillin Ridge

Last week I again helped out Darren with a party of Scotland’s finest youngsters on a couple of days climbing two of the easier peaks on the Cuillin Ridge of Skye. Perfect weather provided a magical backdrop to the climbs and afforded great views all along the ridge as well as to distant Ben Nevis in the south-east and the Outer Hebrides out to sea.

Day 1 saw us departing from the Glen Brittle youth hostel and wandering up past deep pools and waterfalls into Coire a’ Ghreadaidh. Half-way up, the grass gives way to good old Cuillin gabbro rock and the last part of the route is up a scree-filled gulley to An Dorus (the door) – a distinct notch on the main ridge which provides relatively easy access on to the skyline. The highlight for us today was the sight of a golden eagle right above us; for some of the party, it was their first such sighting! A left turn at the top up a tricky (for some) rock step opens the way to a short scramble along the ridge to the summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m). The return route was modified slightly to avoid the rock step. We intercepted the scree gulley a little way below An Dorus and returned to a Glen Brittle bathed in hot sunshine under cloudless skies – Skye as you must experience it at least once in your life (although you may have to try quite a few times before succeeding)!

Am Basteir

Day 2 started from the Sligachan Hotel and we took the well-worn, but good quality path up towards the base of Sgurr nan Gillean’s Pinnacle Ridge before threading our way across Coire Bhasteir right below the imposing chisel-shaped rock peak of Am Basteir and its detached offspring, the Basteir Tooth. Once again, what should we see soaring above us but one of those golden eagles - and for some of the party it was their second such sighting! It was then just a short traverse across the odd soft snow patch to our summit of the day, the Cuillin’s easiest Munro: Bruach na Frithe (958m). From here we could again see along the length and breadth of the main ridge whilst that newly-familiar golden sun just kept on shining! Our descent took us down into Fionn Choire before following the bubbling waters of the Allt Dearg Mor back to ‘the Slig’.

Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir From Bruach na Frithe

If you want to try your hand at the UK’s premier mountain chain and you have little experience of climbing and scrambling, treat the adventure (because that is what it will be) will a deal of respect. Research the Cuillin fully and gain as much understanding as you can of the complexities, difficulties and technical problems involved in traversing these enigmatic rock pinnacles. Unless you are very experienced, employ a local guide and get yourself very fit . You should be entirely comfortable with exposed ridges and rock ledges (not to mention route-finding prowess) to tackle the peaks separately and you will need rock climbing skills and experience in order to conquer Sgurr Dearg’s Inaccessable Pinnacle and some of the intervening steps along the Ridge.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Pentland Hills

2009-05-09T20:01:00.019+01:00

Looking South-East From Allermuir Hill

Having waited 30-odd years to set foot in these rounded dumplings of grass and heather which carry the Southern Uplands all the way to Edinburgh’s doorstep, I’ve now spent quite a few days wandering over them. Whilst they lend themselves to a variety of half-day circular walks from any direction, it is worth considering at least once, tackling all 13 of the north-eastern most hills in a single day. This ring of shapely hills form an elongated horseshoe encircling Glencorse Reservoir.

Carnethy Hill

My preferred start point is the car park at Bonaly on the southern outskirts of Edinburgh where a track leads up past an old reservoir and out on to the open hill. The route can be followed either clockwise or anti-clockwise and can be curtailed at almost any point by descdending to Glencorse Reservoir and retracing the path/track back to Bonaly.

Logan Burn

From Bonaly, I recommend going anti-clockwise thus taking the furthest – and highest - hills early and hopefully ending up with good views of Edinburgh in the evening sunlight! This route takes in the minor humps of Harbour Hill (421m) and Bell’s Hill (406m) before climbing over the dark heather hump of Black Hill (501m). A sharp descent to the Logan Burn leads to a good lunch spot before the climb up to the bealach between East and West Kip. The latter appears as a sharp cone from many aspects and serves as a useful navigation marker for the early part of the route.

The Distinctive Cone of West Kip

From West Kip (551m) which marks the furthest point from Bonaly, an excellent path follows the ridge north-eastwards over East Kip (534m), South Black Hill (563m), Scald Law (579m), Carnethy Hill (573m) and Turnhouse Hill (505m) before descending into the softer and greener landscape of Glencorse. You then pick your way around various path junctions before climbing out of the glen past the Army rifle range and on up to Castlelaw Hill (488m), keeping to the right side of the boundary fence if the red flags are flying (and even if they’re not, I would suggest)!

Turnhouse Hill From Castlelaw

From Castlelaw, a track leads down and over a conspicuous cattle grid before climbing sharply up to Allermuir Hill (493m) which suddenly brings Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth into view. From here, a diversion is made eastwards above the Hillend artificial ski slope to Caerketton Hill (c490m) the very last bump before Edinburgh. You then retrace your steps back over Allermuir and cross Capelaw Hill (454m) before descending back down to Bonaly.

Tackling all of these hills in a single day is straightforward for fit hillwalkers with 8 hrs to spare. Whilst some will want to spend longer savouring parts of the walk and will choose to split it up into separate days, the complete round is a very satisfying achievement. It should be contemplated at least once by those who tramp these picturesque hills frequently. For non-locals, who may only get one chance to sample the Pentlands, this day will give the complete package and an instant understanding of what they have to offer!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Tinto Hill

2009-05-07T19:52:00.007+01:00

Tinto From the South

A friend suggested doing this a short while back but in the event I ended up doing it on my own seeing as it is conveniently placed just off the much-travelled M74. Tinto is the largest and most conspicuous prominence in the upper Clde valley and is the highest hill a motorist on the M74 will see close up after crossing the border at Gretna and before entering the Highlands. The name Tinto derives from the red felsite rocks of which much of the hill is composed.

The most obvious start is the car park at Fallburn on the A73 from where a well-graded path climbs easily around the flank of Totherin Hill before crossing the upper reaches of Maurice’s Cleuch and on up to the prominent cairn that sits atop a big pile of stones. From the summit (707m), there are good views in every direction with the Pentland Hills a line of distant bumps 26 miles away to the north-east. The summit is criss-crossed with sheep fences but otherwise the ground is clear of obstacles and the well-cropped heath is a joy to walk on. Today, the only hazard was the strong gusty wind which whipped the map from my pocket and carried it at some speed in the general direction of the North Sea! I returned the same way down the path which was neither wet nor muddy and saw not a soul on the hill. A lone meadow pipit and the musical call of a curlew were my only companions on this blustery day!

Approaching the Summit From the North

My quick saunter took just 90 minutes up and down, but a family group could comfortably stretch it out to an enjoyable half day, particularly if the outlying hills of Scaut Hill (586m) and Lochlyock Hill (529m) are included. These 2 hills combine with Tinto to make an entertaining east-west ridge walk provided that you can arrange transport at both ends.

So next time you’re flogging up the M74 towards more exotic peaks, why not pull over for a couple of hours and take a pleasant walk up this wee hill with a view. You might even find my map!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Beinn a' Ghlo

2009-04-11T21:22:00.003+01:00

The view across the massif from Carn Liath

Easter this year offered the chance of a solo day in the southern Grampians. There's a few mountains to choose from here, but my favourite - and the finest hill in these parts - is the big twisting ridge of Beinn a' Ghlo above Blair Atholl. This imposing massif throws up 3 Munros and embraces 19 corries and legend has it that a gun fired in any one of the corries cannot be heard in any other! A high start (340m) from the road-end by Loch Moraig ensures you get a rapid and impressive return for your efforts with this mountain and the first summit of Carn Liath (975m) should be achievable within 90 mins from setting out. I was lucky with the weather on Easter Saturday and was rewarded with an impressive view of the whole mountain from the first summit of the day. Great views abound in all directions as you would expect from Beinn a' Ghlo's position at the southern end of the Grampians.

Looking Back at Carn Liath

From Carn Liath an excellent path guides you along the swerving spine of the massif, descending gently to a narrow col (760m) before climbing steadily to the second summit, Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain, a smashing name for a Munro (1070m). Northwards from here the Cairngorms really don't look that far away and the entire vista between north and south-east is filled with rolling mountains. A modest descent to a final col (847m) leads to the steady climb up to the mountain's crowning summit, Carn nan Gabhar (1129m). The summit ridge is adorned with 3 possible summit markers: a large cairn, an Ordnance Survey trig point and a further cairn, all at about 200m intervals. The actual summit is the 3rd of these, the easternmost cairn beyond the trig point - don't be short-changed in misty conditions!

From Carn na Gabhar, the usual return is made back along the summit ridge you've just traversed to its SW end over the subsidary top of Airgiod Bheinn (1061m). A shaly path descends steeply to the surrounding heather tableland and a return to the car is made along a good path which joins the track back to Loch Moraig. Allow a full day for this fine mountain day and expect to complete it in 6-8 hrs.

The Hercules Memorial Cairn

On this day though, I left the growing number of fellow hillwalkers I'd seen along the way and descended the deserted eastern slopes of the mountain down into Glen Loch to pay my respects at a memorial cairn marking the site where a RAF Hercules aircraft crashed on 27th May 1993 taking the lives of 9 servicemen, some of them colleagues of mine - and one of them a close friend. Despite the incipient sadness, this is a wonderfully remote highland spot, a long way from any public road and seldom visited by hillwalkers. A visit to the cairn will increase the day by a good 2 hrs. The long walk out below the southern ramparts of all the day's summits and a potentially difficult crossing of the Allt Coire Lagain won't be to everyone's liking - but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. RIP bonnie lads.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm