Hillways

A 3rd Round of Munros

2016-10-21T09:17:00.000+01:00

Sgurr Choinnich Mor

Four Munros to go to finish my 3^rd round and all of them spread out along the Grey Corries ridge a few miles NE of Ben Nevis. The ridge itself, a twisting, turning snake of angular quartzite boulders, really only contains 2 Munros (Stob Choire Claurigh and Stob Coire an Laoigh). The other 2 (Stob Ban and Sgurr Choinnich Mor) sit inconveniently off the main ridge and significantly complicate any plan to climb all 4 Munros in a single day. As I planned to do.

Across the Grey Corries From Stob Ban

Starting from a short way above Corriechoille, 3Kms E of Spean Bridge, I pushed the bike up the forest track that leads up through the Lairig Leacach and eventually to Corrour & Rannoch. I only needed to go as far as the small bothy which lies 2Kms beyond the summit of the Lairig.

Stop Ban Above the Lairig Leacach Bothy

From here, a path leads SW up through the heather and grass and over a subsidiary top to the distinctive quartzite cone of Stob Ban (977m; white peak). Being a cone, there then followed a steep descent to the 800m bealach that separates Stob Ban from the main Grey Corries ridge.

Stob Ban

The path continues up the other side on grassy slopes for a fairly sustained climb of almost 380m before the grass gives way to a quartzite boulder field that heralds the approach to the summit of Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m; peak of the noisy corrie).

Stob Choire Claurigh From Stob Ban

By now, the cloud had come down and I saw nothing of the ridge as I strode manfully(!) on over all the subsidiary lumps and bumps including Stob a’ Choire Leith (1105m), Stob Coire Cath na Sine (1079m) and Caisteal (1106m) before reaching the 3^rd Munro of the day: Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m; peak of the corrie of the calf).

Stob Coire Easain & Stob Coire an Laoigh

Still in cloud, one more descent/re-ascent placed me on Stob Coire Easain (1080m) from where my last Munro finally appeared in view across a 935m bealach. The descent to the bealach is rocky in places and requires care; the re-ascent on the other side is steep. But finally, I was on the impressive sharp summit ridge of my ultimate goal and a very weary bunny almost staggered up to the summit of Sgurr Choinnich Mor (1094m; big mossy peak) to become only the 74^th triple Munroist.

Sgurr Choinnich Mor

This is a fine mountain and deserved more singular treatment, particularly to celebrate the end of my 3^rd round. As it was, any elation was somewhat subsumed by fatigue and the knowledge of how far I had yet to go to get back to the car.

Approaching the Last Summit

Still, it was a great relief and the resultant uplift in spirits provided a welcome pick-me-up as I traversed back to Stob Coire Easain and along the main ridge. I picked a route that descended between Stob Choire Claurigh & Stob Ban (missing both peaks) that got me back down to the bothy in reasonable time.

Lairig Leacach

Then it was back on the bike for a superb fast freewheel all the way down the Lairig Leacach and that most welcome of sights after a long hill-day: a motor car!

Stob Ban

The 3^rd round had largely come to me through my professional work with Hillways without which I would never have come close to achieving it. And whist I am already half-way through a 4^th round for the same reason, it ain’t going to happen again!

Or is it…….

Check out my plans for similar walks at http://www.hillways.co.uk/.htm

The Rough Bounds of Knoydart

2016-10-20T10:41:00.000+01:00

Looking West From Sgurr Mor

At the end of the long, lonely single-track road that extends for 20 Kms west from Achnacarry alongside Loch Arkaig, lies the gateway to an isolated area of very rugged mountains and corries and wet glens. These comprise the eastern border of the Knoydart peninsula hence the area’s appropriately descriptive title.

Strathan, at the Head of Loch Arkaig

There are at least 2 full hill days to be had here, taking in 4 Munros. Whilst they can, in extremis, be combined into one very long gruelling traverse, it is not to be recommended. With winter approaching and a Munro round to finish off, I didn’t have the luxury of conservative planning. And after all, I was only looking to climb 3 of the 4 hills.

Glen Dessary

Leaving the car at the newly enlarged car park at the end of Loch Arkaig, I used the bike for the first 2½ Kms of good track to the estate buildings at Glendessary (the 5 Kms saving on walking was significant, given the length of my day). Thereafter, I continued on foot along a Glen Dessary bathed in autumn colours and weak sunshine.

Climbing Above Glen Dessary

After the cottage at Upper Glendessary, the track becomes a rough path and then a rough, wet path alongside a forestry plantation until you reach the crossing of the Allt Coire nan Uth. Patches of early morning (I’d been up since 6.30) valley cloud and mist added to the atmospherics of this remote place, but the summits were all clear. There was no mistaking the season of the year.

West From Garbh Chioch Bheag

Turning right off the main path, I started up the S ridge of Sgurr nan Coireachan (a good path) until about 600m before veering left up into the adjoining corrie to reach the skyline at the Bealach Coire nan Gall (733m). The next 2 hrs were taken up picking my way delicately along the rough, prickly ridge of the Garbh Chiochs - a succession of rocky ups and downs which, even with the aid of a clear path, made for slow painstaking progress. A dry stone dyke accompanies you the whole way!

Garbh Chioch Mhor & Sgurr na Ciche

The ridge eventually ends at the distinctive shapely cone of Sgurr na Ciche, but today I only had to go as far as Garbh Chioch Mhor (1013m; big rough hill of the breast). The views are spectacular of course, west out to sea and the Small Isles; north and south across endless peaks.

West From Garbh Chioch Mhor

Retracing my steps to the Bealach Coire nan Gall, it was time to start climbing again with a short, sharp pull on to Munro No 2: Sgurr nan Coireachan (953m; peak of the corries).

Sgurr nan Coireachan

You are now perched mid-way between Glen Dessary and Loch Quoich with wide vistas all around. My 3^rd Munro of the day (Sgurr Mor) lay some way off to the NW and required 2 intermediate ascents before reaching the last col (750m) prior to the final ascent. This is why most people quite rightly treat it as a separate hill-day.

A Distant Sgurr Mor From Sgurr nan Coireachan

Still, the weather stayed dry and clear as I traversed around to An Eag and then up and over Sgurr Beag before one final toil up the final climb of the day to one of the more remote Munro summits: Sgurr Mor (1003m; big peak).

Sgurr Mor

Still 8 Kms from the car, I didn’t have too much time to admire the views - back across the Rough Bounds to Knoydart and onwards across Loch Quoich - before heading down into Glen Kingie.

East from Sgurr Mor Towards Gairich & Loch Quoich

The route is now both wet and pathless for half of the way home. Crossing the infant River Kingie can be problematical in spate, but there were no such difficulties today. Be prepared to have to detour upstream in wet conditions.

Sugar Mor From the South

A slight climb to a boggy saddle at 360m enables you to intercept the stalkers’ path from Glen Kingie which then leads down to Glendessary. The bike whisked me back to the car in 10 mins!

Check out my plans for similar walks at http://www.hillways.co.uk/.htm

The Etive Hills

2016-10-05T16:48:00.000+01:00

Buachaille Etive Mor Guards the Entrance to Glen Etive

Three hill-days to go to complete my 3^rd Munro round and the longest of these was going to be this collection of 5 peaks hidden away at the foot of Glen Etive. Whilst they are generally split into 2-3 separate days, the distance required to drive to them and the effort needed to climb the first one have always persuaded me to tackle all 5 in one gruelling day! With one notable exception, the hills form a long undulating ridge far from the roadside and with a fair amount of up and down - so you know you’re in for a big day!

Ben Starav From Glen Etive

Starting from the western end, Ben Starav is a brute of a mountain which will take at least 3hrs to climb. Then comes Beinn nan Aighenan, probably the most awkwardly placed Munro in Scotland stubbornly sitting as it does 2 Km S of the main ridge and accessed via a frustratingly low bealach. Then it’s back to the main ridge for shapely Glas Bheinn Mhor before another low bealach leads to big Stob Coir’an Albannaich. Finally, rougher ground leads over a minor top before one last climb leads to Meall nan Eun, the baby of the group. It’s a long way back to the car!

Ben Starav From the River Etive

I started, as on previous visits, from the end of the access track to Coileitir, a 30-min drive down Glen Etive and a couple of miles short of the road-end at the head of Loch Etive. The familiar pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mor made for a grand sight in the early morning sunshine as I entered Glen Etive in pursuit of my hills.

Toiling Up Ben Starav!

Once over the River Etive (the bridge is essential), a muddy path leads to the Allt Mheuran which can usually be crossed where you meet it. There then begins the long, unrelenting climb up Ben Starav’s N ridge. The ridge narrows as you approach the summit and the views are very impressive across Loch Etive and N towards the Glen Coe hills. But it’s probably the climb you’ll remember. I know I do!

Ben Starav From Beinn nan Aighenan

Three hours from the car and I was standing beside the summit cairn of Ben Starav (1078m; rustling hill). Nothing remains of the OS trig point and the summit is surprisingly flat for such a big, steep-sided rocky mountain. Normally you’d want to linger, but there is still such a long way to go….

Ben Starav From Glas Bheinn Mhor

Descending quickly to the first of several frustratingly low bealachs, I reluctantly left the main ridge to traverse to Munro No 2. For this, I had to descend all the way to 618m before re-ascending over 300m to the isolated summit of Beinn nan Aighenan (960m; hill of the hinds). From here, you can see all the remaining hills and it’s a sobering sight if you’re planning to do them all today!

Beinn nan Aighenan

It’s best just to keep your head down and plod steadily on. I know I did - back to the depressingly low bealach and back up the other side until I regained the main ridge and, after a steep climb, triumphantly secured my 3^rd Munro of the day: Glas Bheinn Mhor (997m; big green-grey hill).

Glas Bheinn Mhor

You’re never on level ground for very long on this route and there’s not much of it on the steep descent to the next bealach at the head of the Allt Mheuran.

Stob Coir’an Albannaich & Glas Bheinn Mhor From Ben Starav

This is where most sensible folk would peel off left and return to Glen Etive! Me? No, I just had to toil up another steep slope before running out of path and crossing rougher ground leading to the surprisingly small summit of Stob Coir’an Albannaich (928m; peak of the corrie of the Scotsman). The summit cairn sits on top of a strange grassy mound perched on the edge of the mountain’s sheer N face. It’s a great spot, even if late-afternoon fatigue can take the edge off the aesthetics!

Stob Coir’an Albannaich

As the autumn sun started to sink in the W, I trudged wearily on heading E looking for the wee cairn that marks the descent route N to the next bealach. No worries today (it stayed clear all day), and I was soon down at 754m and traversing the intermediate top of Meall Tarsuinn over indistinct ground for the final climb of the day. One last ascent and I had my 5^th Munro of the day: Meall nan Eun (928m; hill of the birds).

Meall nan Eun

The sun really was low now so I wasted no time departing from the flat summit and following the broad NW ridge for the descent into Glen Ceitlein. There are some awkward steep granite slabs to negotiate on this descent and it is better to trend to the right to avoid most of them. You run out of path for a while and it can get quite soggy, but eventually, a clear path emerges on the N side of the Allt Ceitlein and this leads all the way back down to Glen Etive.

Glas Bheinn Mhor From Beinn nan Aighenan

Headtorch on, I followed the path under a bright crescent moon until it intercepted a vehicle track in the main glen that leads back to the Coileitir access track. By the time I reached the car, I had been walking for 11 hrs, covered almost 30 Kms and had climbed over 2700m.

And boy, it felt like it!

Late Afternoon Sunshine on the Etive Hills

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Carn Mor Dearg

2016-10-04T17:41:00.000+01:00

Carn Mor Dearg

A much-needed and very welcome improvement in the weather has enabled me to tackle the few remaining hills of my 3^rd Munro round. The highest of these was Carn Mor Dearg which holds hands with Ben Nevis and is connected to the former by the much-vaunted Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) arête.

Glen Nevis

For this ascent, I opted for the short, steep climb from the end of the road in Glen Nevis. This avoids the long haul up the mountain’s N slopes and does include a traverse of the arête - but it’s hard work!

The Carn Mor Dearg Arête

Parking at the road-end in Glen Nevis, it took a few minutes to locate the path in deep bracken. When it did appear, so began the hard work - almost 500m of sustained steep climbing alongside the water-chute of the Allt Coire Eoghainn. At least the views came quickly!

Ben Nevis From Carn Mor Dearg

The path disappears once in Coire Eoghainn, but reappears higher up just before the grassy slopes give way to a boulder field. Keep climbing and all of a sudden, things begin to happen. Almost simultaneously, the N face of Ben Nevis, the CMD arête and Carn Mor Dearg itself appear with the deep hollow of Coire Leis immediately in front of you.

Coire Leis

Not for the first time this year, the wind now became a problem with gusts of 50 mph threatening further progress. Fortunately, the wind abated sufficiently to allow me to continue and I wasted no time in traversing the arête on to less hazardous ground. With stunning views across Coire Leis to the Ben for added interest, the going got easier for the final climb up on to Carn Mor Dearg (1220m; big red hill).

The View North from the Summit

From the summit, I descended the peak’s sharply-defined E ridge to the 830m bealach between Carn Mor Dearg and Aonach Mor.

Aonach Mor & Aonach Beag From Carn Mor Dearg

From here, and in thankfully lighter winds, the return to the car was straightforward - down Coire Giubhsachan, up and over the bealach immediately N of Meall Cumhann and then down to the car park in Glen Nevis.

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Gairich

2016-09-26T12:00:00.000+01:00

Gairich

It wont have escaped anyone’s attention that this week’s weather and the fine art of hillwalking are not made for each other. A succession of ‘vigorous’ Atlantic depressions is giving the NW Highlands a conveyor belt of gale-force winds and sustained heavy rain. The result is the least successful week in Matt & Jenn’s 5-yr Munro campaign which is especially frustrating as they are so near the end!

The View From the Car

The one day we have managed to achieve so far resulted from an all-too-brief respite from the Atlantic onslaught which gave us just long enough to tackle the isolated peak of Gairich on the long and winding road to Kinlochhourn.

The View East Approaching the Summit

Parking by the Loch Quoich dam, we splish-sploshed our not-so-merry way across the sodden moorland for an hour to access the broad shoulder of Druim na Geid Salaich which gives access to the peak from the E. There was a path, but it seemed academic such was the amount of groundwater.

Dark Storm Clouds Were Never far Away!

At least the wind had relented sufficiently enough to allow for walking as we passed the intermediate mound of Bac nam Foid (584m) and finally reached the shapely pyramid of Gairich itself.

Gleouraich Across Loch Quoich

The following 300m climb up steep slopes was greatly helped by an excellent path and fine views N across Coire Thollaidh to Loch Quoich and S across the watery wastes of Glen Kingie.

High Above Glen Kingie

The end came quickly with the summit cairn appearing shortly after the steepness eases and the relatively small summit area ensures some cracking views in all directions: Gairich (919m; roaring hill).

Loch Quoich

We returned the same way with some sunshine and light winds to brighten the mood, and only deer for company. We knew, however, that this would be a rare experience this week - perhaps even a unique one….

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Glen Carron Hills

2016-08-20T20:02:00.000+01:00

Sgorr Ruadh & Fuar Tholl From Achintee

Hidden away, far and unseen from public roads, lie 3 (very) remote Munros which the aspiring Munroist will have to tackle at some stage. By far the best way to access these awkwardly-placed hills is by bike, even if you will have to push it uphill for a while on your way in! On this occasion, however, we were resigned to walking all the way and the hot, windless conditions made for 2 of the most challenging hill-days in Matt & Jenn’s Munro campaign.

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor

Lurg Mhor is one of the 3 remotest Munros in Scotland and together with ‘Cheescake’, will demand a long old day from you, however you choose to do them. The 3 usual options start from Craig in Glen Carron (you have to climb over an intervening Corbett in and out!), Attadale beside Loch Carron (a bike-able track accounts for ⅔ of the distance) or on foot from Achintee.

Approaching Bendronaig Lodge

Today, we walked in from Achintee, near Strathcarron (33 Kms round-trip) using the hill path for the first 2 hrs as far as the Bealach Alltan Ruairidh. It is only now that you get your first view of the hills, and they don’t look particularity close even from here!

Bendronaig Lodge & Bothy

It was only when we intercepted the Attadale track after 8 Kms that we realised that on-going hydro construction works have greatly improved the quality of the track and now make the bike option even more attractive.

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor From Sail Riabhach

After 10 Kms, you pass lonely Bendronaig Lodge (everything is lonely around here!) and its accompanying bothy. From here, the track continues E past Loch Calavie to Pait Lodge on the shores of Loch Monar.

Loch Calavie

We followed this through the energy-sapping heat for another 2 Kms before the climbing started in earnest with a tiring flog up the grassy bowl of Coire na Sorna and on to Sail Riabhach (771m). From this intermediate top, our 1^st Munro finally looked something like close! And indeed, after a gentle traverse with a welcome breeze and a short, final climb, we reached the rather fine (if small) summit of Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich (945m; pinnacle of the corrie of the fallow cattle).

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich From Lurg Mhor

Apart from the obvious relief of attaining our 1^st summit, our spirits were further lifted by the obvious close proximity of Lurg Mhor. The intervening bealach is a lowly 735m, but the relatively modest height of the 2 Munros make for a straightforward re-ascent up 2 rock steps to the very welcome summit cairn of Lurg Mhor (986m; big shank). As if to underline our hard-won Munro, a pair of golden eagles soared above us in the bright blue sky.

Lurg Mhor

Any heightened sense of relief following our 2^nd summit was muted by the knowledge we were only just half-way through our long day. So it was with some weariness that we descended the grassy slopes of Coire Calavie back down to the Bendronaig track from where we started the long weary trudge all the way back to Achintee.

Maoile Lunndaidh

Maoile Lunndaidh From Glenuaig

The following day (as if the previous day’s exertions weren’t enough), we donned boots again and headed up yet another track in debilitating heat. Today’s 27 Kms sojourn started at Craig in Glen Carron and followed the now familiar improved track alongside the Allt a’ Chonais to Pollan Buidhe. Shortly before reaching Glenuaig Lodge, we left the track and cut right across some very rough and uneven ground to begin what became a very difficult climb up the steep flank of Fuar-tholl Mor and up on to the open hillside. Being a flat-topped mountain, the summit cairn didn’t appear until the last minute but it was a mighty relief when it did. At least there was some sort of breeze up there: Maoile Lunndaidh (1007m; bare hill of the wet place).

Below Fuar-tholl Mor

Still a long way from home, we traipsed wearily down the way we had come, descending steeply down into Gleann Fhiodhaig and making a direct line for Glenuaig Lodge where some very kind tenants offered cake! We were still the best part of 2 hrs from the car and the heat never really relented. So it was 3 very tired bunnies who eventually staggered back to Craig eagerly anticipating a day-off!

Approaching Glenuaig Lodge

That day-off was largely spent moving across to Speyside where we encountered markedly different conditions cycling down Loch Ericht for 15 Kms to Culra Bothy for a wet and windy few hours attempting 4 of the Ben Alder group. We achieved 2 of them before scuttling back to Dalwhinnie wondering what is the more challenging - debilitating heat, or wild and windy weather……..

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Gleouraich & Spidean Mialach

2016-08-15T17:49:00.000+01:00

The View Across Loch Quoich Towards Knoydart

Returning to Loch Quoich one month after an unusually challenging hot and humid ascent of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich, much kinder conditions awaited Matt, Jenn & I for this first class circular traverse of 2 fine mountains far down Glen Garry.

Gairich Across Loch Quoich

The hills were surprisingly quiet for mid-August and we saw very few people in a week that encompassed one of the Glen Etive hills, these 2 today, 3 very remote hills above Glen Carron and a partly-successful tilt at the Ben Alder group.

The View SW From Gleouraich

A network of excellent stalkers’ paths in the Loch Quoich hills make for very enjoyable (and easier) hillwalking than it would otherwise be. These 2 hills are no exception with a fabulous stalkers’ path leading from the roadside to just 200m below the first summit. Thereafter, a clear mountain path leads over both summits and part-way down the 2^nd peak before another stalkers’ path returns you to the road. Moreover, in keeping with many parts of the Highlands, there has been a lot of recent hill track/road building in mountain glens and one of these alongside the Allt a’ Mheil gives an even easier descent from Spidean Mialach.

Gleouraich

So off we set, quite steeply at first, up on to the ridge of Sron a’ Chuilinn which gives stunning views down over Loch Quoich towards Knoydart and further W. The path is a real ‘highway in the sky’ and quickly leads you to the upper part of the mountain. Just before the stalkers’ path terminates high above Coire Peitireach, we took the obvious ridgeline which climbs and curves around to the substantial summit cairn of Gleouraich (1035m; roaring noise).

Spidean Mialach From Gleouraich

Both mountains have widely differing aspects with the summit crests separating deep rocky corries to the N from much gentler grassy slopes to the S. The dividing bealach (Fiar Bealach) dips down to a slightly mean 740m, but you can hardly complain given the shortness of the day! The ascent from the bealach is grassy at first, but becomes increasingly stony as you approach the summit. Once there though, you get 2 cairns for the price of one and fantastic views in every direction, particularly E where you can see the Cairngorms on a clear day! Spidean Mialach (996m; peak of deer).

Gleouraich From Spidean Mialach

After admiring said views and someone’s very fair copy of a west Highland trig point using local stone, we took the obvious path down into Coire Dubh. The path turned boggy in places so it was an easy decision to opt for the new Hydro track from about 400m rather than stay with the squelchy path! Whilst the track meets the road further from the car than the path, the extra kilometer is a small price to pay to get onto firmer ground sooner.

Descending Into Sun

And anyway, the sun was still shining and the view across the shimmering waters of Loch Quoich towards the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and the distinctive outline of Sgurr na Ciche never looed better!

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Laggan Hills: Beinn a’ Chaorainn & Beinn Teallach

2016-07-29T18:17:00.000+01:00

The Loch Treig Hills From Beinn a’ Chaorainn

DJ’s mid-summer Munro foray was aimed at wrapping up his unfinished Munros on either side of the A86 between Spean Bridge and Newtonmore. And that is exactly what we achieved over a 3-day visit at the end of July.

For the middle day, we chose these 2 hills which lie immediately N of the Laggan Dam. They are generally done together but have no convenient high bealach between them so you have to descend below 600m between Munros (Ouch)! So take some solace from Beinn Teallach being the 2^nd lowest Munro - it could be a lot worse!

Beinn a’ Chaorainn From Beinn Teallach

A further crumb of comfort is the high start (270m) afforded by beginning from Roughburn on the A86. From here, we took the track that leads through the forestry plantation to open (if boggy) ground beside the Allt a’ Chaorainn. Then it was up, up….oh, and up… over some fairly tedious grassy slopes - these hills have plenty of them!

Beinn Teallach

Half-way up, the rocky knoll of Meall Clachaig leads to a slight easing of the gradient, but eventually (and it’s a long eventually), the ground becomes more stony and you finally arrive on Beinn a’ Chaorainn’s summit ridge. The view that suddenly appears across the steep eastern corrie of the mountain’s 3 tops towards Craig Meagaidh is the best of the day. The summit is the middle of the 3 tops and it’s always a relief to get there: Beinn a’ Chaorainn (1049m; hill of the rowan).

Descending to the Allt a’ Chaorainn

Any joy was short-lived though as the descent back to the Allt a’ Chaorainn was long and in places steep. After pausing for lunch (the midges’, not ours!), the 2^nd climb of the day followed - 400m of steep, broken ground in humid windless purgatory! But at least it put us on top just in time to see a hen harrier taking flight from the summit cairn - a very fair reward for our efforts! There are 2 cairns; the E one being the higher of the 2 by a short stone: Beinn Teallach (915m; forge hill).

Beinn Teallach From Beinn a’ Chaorainn

We descended the straightforward easy-angled S slopes of the mountain and re-crossed the Allt a’ Chaorainn without difficulty (it must have stopped raining for a few hours)! A possible sparrowhawk sighting in the forest supported the slightly unfair notion that the birds we had seen today were perhaps more interesting than the hills we had climbed! Jon was happy though - a further 3 Munros the following day gave him his clean sweep of the Laggan hills despite cloudy conditions and 3 viewless summits (so no blog)!

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich

2016-07-19T10:12:00.000+01:00

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich

Mid-July saw a continuation of the misfiring summer of 2016 with a succession of relentlessly wet and windy days in the Highlands. Consequently, Jennifer’s mid-summer Munro raid on the hills around Loch Quoich, west of Invergarry in the Great Glen was threatening to be a complete washout. Fortunately, after snatching a hard-fought hill-day (2 Munros) above Loch Treig in slightly less wet and windy conditions, the last day dawned bright and sunny and a quality Munro day beckoned.

The Long and Winding Road to Kinlochhourn

Back we went along the long and winding road to Kinlochhourn and parked just past the northern extension of Loch Quoich. From here, an excellent stalkers’ path leads from the road up and along the grassy ridge of Bac nan Canaichean. Without meaning to sound ungrateful, the sunny weather came with an uncomfortable sting in the tail. Very warm and humid conditions do not make for comfortable hillwalking and that was certainly the case this morning when the strength appeared to drain from our legs. At times, it felt a bit like high altitude walking and we were forced to pause frequently as we struggled under a hot sun. Some respite was offered by a light breeze once over the subsidiary top of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach (891m), but it wasn’t much of a concession.

Gairich Across Loch Quoich

Despite the debilitating conditions, the final stretch of ridge between this top and the Munro summit is truly delightful with spectacular views in all directions. The summit itself came just 2hrs after leaving the car, but it was hard work which the photos don’t really capture. It is a fine peak though with ridges radiating in all directions and a fabulous view down Loch Hourn towards Knoydart: Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich (1027m; peak of the shellfish).

The View West From the Summit Towards Knoydart

We descended the same way (easy) thereby taking advantage of the path rather than descending the S ridge and cutting down across the pathless Coire nan Eiricheallach, a route I’d taken on my 2 previous visits.

So, only one of the Quoich Munros achieved over the 5 days, but it won’t be long before Jennifer returns to finish them off - we just need summer to start taking itself seriously!

Sgurr a' Mhaoraich

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Five Sisters of Kintail

2016-06-27T20:36:00.000+01:00

The Five Sisters of Kintail

Lynn was fast approaching her 100^th Munro and needed a few days in Kintail to seal the deal! The original plan had been to capture all 7 of the South Cluanie Ridge Munros in a day, add the Five Sisters of Kintail and pick up anything else the weather allowed over another couple of days.

Ah, Sunny Kintail.........

However, as what has become a rather wet and windy summer refused to play ball, we ended up, as always, compromising and grabbing what we could.

Creise

So, after pausing on the way up to climb Creise (and necessarily, Meall a’ Bhuiridh) above the Glen Coe ski complex, we decided to use the best day of the 4 traversing the Five Sisters ridge. This was in the hope of seeing something of the amazing views that this always enjoyable traverse can give.

Saileag (on a good day)!

Leavin the car at the end-point, and benefiting from a kindly lift part-way up Glen Shiel from David, we headed up the usual path (not as steep or as long as it looks from below) to the skyline at the Bealach an Lapain (730m). It was a muggy old climb that soon entered thick cloud which was to linger for the next couple of hours. On impulse, we decided to turn right instead of left and invest an additional 45 mins of our day adding a 4^th Munro to the day’s haul: Saileag (956m; little heel). It didn’t take long, wasn’t very steep and we saw nothing! But it was still Lynn’s 95^th Munro so was well worth climbing!

The North Cluanie Ridge

Back at the Bealach an Lapain, we reverted to Plan A and continued westwards along the ever-tightening ridge over various bumps and dips to Sgurr nan Spainteach (990m; peak of the Spaniard). No Munro, but we wouldn’t have long to wait. A steep, if short, descent to negotiate an interesting landslip followed by a modest re-ascent and a short boulder field brought us to our 2^nd Munro of the day: Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe (1027m; peak of the black chest).

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

By now, the cloud was beginning to noticeably thin and we were getting glimpses of Loch Duich far below and some of the surrounding hills. By the time we had paused for some lunch at the intervening bealach, there were clear signs of a sunny afternoon to come. First though, we had to climb up and over Sgurr na Carnach (1002m; rocky peak) and the ridge’s crowning peak: Sgurr Fhuaran (1067m; peak of the wolf) before the cloud started to leave us for good.

Sgurr Fhuaran

Descending from Sgurr Fhuaran, everything got better quickly and there then followed what has become a typically warm, bright and sunny traverse around Sgurr nan Saighead and Beinn Bhuidhe before dropping into Coire na Criche and following the delightful Allt a’ Chruinn back down to the waiting car. Lovely!

West From Sgurr Fhuaran

Loch Duich From Coire na Criche

The following day, Lynn achieved her 100^th Munro on the South Cluanie Ridge. Weather precluded us attempting a full traverse of all 7 peaks, but we managed the easternmost 3 and we celebrated her first century on Druim Shionnach - typically, in thick cloud! The following day, in bright sunshine, we climbed Schiehallion on the way home thereby completing Lynn’s 102^nd Munro and ensuring we achieved the major aim of the trip. Phew!

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Fisherfield Five

2016-06-14T21:51:00.000+01:00

Looking West From A' Mhaighdean

There is no easy way to climb these 5 very remote Munros tucked away in the vast road-less tract of mountain, moorland and glen between Dundonnell, Poolewe and Kinlochewe in the NW Highlands. The fairly recent demotion of a 6^th Munro (Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh) following a re-survey has done little to reduce the considerable number of footsteps required to stand on their summits.

Approaching the First 2 Munros: Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair & Sgurr Ban

Moreover, the geography of the group is such that splitting them into 2 days has little material effect on the distance covered. For this reason, it is perhaps best to swallow the pill and take them all on in one go. Providing you are hill-fit, choose the right day/time of the year, give some thought to the logistics and don’t plan anything for the day after, you have a good chance of success!

Looking North to Loch an Nid & An Teallach

So, after much deliberation, one previous attempt and with a mindset that oozed flexibility, Matt & Jenn went for it. As if to illustrate the above points, we chose the week before the summer solstice to give us maximum daylight, put cars at 2 access points and took advantage of a prolonged dry spell so the river crossings would not be a problem.

Beinn Tarsuinn

Leaving a car at Corrie Hallie with the intention of walking out that way and reducing the overall distance by a modest, but precious 2 Km, we drove back along the Destitution Road and parked near Loch a’ Bhraoin (280m) at 08.15. Five minutes later, the sight of an osprey taking flight immediately before us seemed like a promising omen!

Climbing the Quartzite Slabs on Sgurr Ban

It was a welcome surprise to find a vehicle track leading all the way along the loch and a short way beyond Lochivraon cottage. In 2hrs, we were taking our first big break immediately S of Loch an Nid with our first 2 Munros towering above us. Sunny skies had seen us on our way, but as we toiled up the quartzite boulder field above Coire nan Clach, a cool breeze and cloud aplenty heralded a change. As if to illustrate the distances involved in climbing these mountains, it was 4hrs 10mins before we stood on our first summit: Sgurr Ban (989m; white peak).

Sgurr Ban

From here we could see all of the day’s 5 Munros which form a horseshoe around Gleann na Muice. It is probably at this point (and not before) that you can make a judgement call on whether you want to go for all 5 in one day. The 2^nd hill, however, is very close and following a short, if steep, drop and re-ascent, we were standing on top of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (1019m; peak of the corrie of Farquhar’s son). We had now been walking for 5hrs.

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Hill No 3 is not far away either and after another short, steep descent and welcome traverse around the intervening lump of Meall Garbh, we paused again, at Bealach Odhar, before climbing the easy grass slopes of Beinn Tarsuinn (937m; transverse hill) which we summited after 6hrs 15mins.

Beinn Tarsuinn

The traverse of this mountain ridge is very Torridonian in feel (same rock and mountain architecture), but is short-lived before a steep, messy descent and short traverse ends on the wide saddle of Pollan na Muice (525m). This was just short of half-way on our particular route so we took another long break before the long steady climb up easy grassy slopes to the stunning summit of Munro No 4: A’ Mhaighdean (967m; the maiden) which we attained after 8hrs 35mins.

Three Down; 2 to Go! Approaching A' Mhaighdean

This is one of the finest (and remotest) of Munro summits and gives a fantastic view west as the mountain plummets almost vertically to the Dubh and Fionn Lochs and beyond towards Poolewe and the distant sea.

Sugar Ban & Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Moving on, reluctantly, it doesn’t take long to descend to the intervening bealach and climb the steep sandstone bluff that leads to the flat summit of Munro No 5: Ruadh Stac Mor (918m; big red stack). We achieved this at 9hrs 35mins from the car and although tired and pretty foot-sore, the elation at this point will be more than enough to get you home!

A' Mhaighdean & Ruadh Stac Mor

So it was that at 18.00 we started our 5hr walk-out - a sobering thought that once again underlines the uniqueness of the Fisherfield circuit. As we descended past Fuar Loch Mor, we passed the most remote spot on the UK mainland (as calculated by an OS cartographer and based upon the distance to the nearest road (NH0202077000).

South From A'Mhaighdean

The key to the first part of the walk-out is the excellent stalkers’ path that leads down into Gleann na Muice Beag to its junction with Gleann na Muice where the latter’s eponymous river provides the 2^nd of 3 potentially problematical river crossing on the route. Fortunately, we encountered no such difficulty today and, after a 3^rd major break (another key to success), were soon across and traversing the largely flat heathery ground into Strath na Sealga.

North From Ruadh Stac Mor: The Long Walk-Out Started Here!

In failing light, we crossed our last river obstacle (again, trouble-free), passing the rather forlorn decaying house of Achneigie before summoning one last bout of energy to climb out of Strath na Sealga on the vehicle track that leads (eventually) down into Gleann Chaorachain and ultimately to Corrie Hallie where we arrived at 22.55!

The Sun Going Down Over Strath na Sealga

In all, our round of the Fisherfield Munros involved 42 Kms (26 miles) of walking, 2,420m (7,940’) of climbing and 14 hrs 40 mins of our lives!

We took the next day off!

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Lui

2016-05-28T07:35:00.000+01:00

Ben Lui

The 4 Munros of the Ben Lui group hide above Tyndrum and give only fleeting views as you drive up the A82 or along the A85 to Oban. On this occasion, we elected to split the group into 2 separate days - at either end of the Knoydart & Mull trip.

Beinn Dubhchraig & Ben Oss

Ben Oss & Ben Lui

We took my usual walk-in from Tydrum Lower Station into Glen Cononish. The steep climb up the grassy slopes leading to the NE shoulder of Beinn Dubhchraig was straightforward, if a little damp, as the only rain of the entire trip welcomed Matt & Jenn back to the Highlands.

Beinn Dubhchraig

We did have clear views throughout the day, however, and were soon traversing the broad ridge past the 2 small lochans that lead to the summit of Beinn Dubhchraig (978m; hill of the black rock).

Ben Oss

Retracing our steps to the lochans, we descended steeply (but mercifully briefly) to the bealach above Coire Buidhe before climbing steadily up the narrowing ridge that leads to Ben Oss (1029m; hill of the elk).

Beinn a’ Chleibh & Ben Lui

Ben Lui

The last day of the Knoydart & Mull trip saw us parking in Glen Lochy, fording the eponymous river (relatively easily in this dry spell) and negotiating the low headroom afforded by the railway bridge before finally starting the climb up the day’s mountains! Doctor Jon joined us for this last day having decided the current spell of great weather was just too good to miss!

Fording the River Lochy

Forestry works further complicate the ascent just now but a clearly marked and helpful diversion make for easy-going and we were soon breaking out of the trees and heading up into Fionn Choirein. Once on the skyline, we headed west and climbed the easy slopes to the large flat grassy summit of Beinn a’ Chleibh (916m; hill of the chest). Despite being one of the lowest Munros, its western position gives great views in that direction. It’s a nice wee hill.

Beinn a’ Chleibh

We descended back to the bealach and started the main climb of the day up the steady incline that leads to the dramatic twin summits of Ben Lui. The sudden drop down into Coire Gaothach is all the more impressive following the relatively viewless ascent of the mountain from the west.

Ben Lui From Glen Lochy

Today, light wispy cloud obscured the best of the views, but it is always a pleasure to stand on top of this, one of the finest hills in the southern Highlands: Ben Lui (1130m; hill of the calf).

Ben Lui & Beinn a’ Chleibh

Despite the cloudy summit, we descended in good spirits, negotiating all the obstacles before arriving back at the car to see both mountains bathed in sunshine and clear skies!! Ah well, that’s the way it goes…

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart & Mull

2016-05-26T21:22:00.000+01:00

The Hills of Knoydart

As if in reward for the seemingly endless mild, wet and sunless winter just gone, May 2016 has seen a sustained period of warm, dry and very sunny weather in the NW Highlands. As such, our timing was perfect for 2 of the finest areas on the west coast of Scotland: the remote peninsula of Knoydart and the special island of Mull.

Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn

This majestic mountain (one of Scotland’s finest), is best approached from the north where the full glory of the mountain’s defining feature, Coire Dhorrcail, can be fully appreciated. Unfortunately, logistically, Knoydart is best accessed by ferry from the south (Mallaig) with the walk beginning in Inverie.

The Knoydart Ferry

Logisitcs won out this time so immediately after arriving at Inverie we headed north out of the village and over Mam Uidhe into Gleann na Guiserein. At this point, Ladhar Bheinn’s uniformly steep southern grassy slopes loom into view and the climb ahead is pretty straightforward.

Beinn Sgritheall & Loch Hourn

The track ends at the bridge immediately before the ruin of Folach, after which a path curves left around a conifer plantation and climbs steadily to the skyline ridge of An Diollaid. From here, the view northwards suddenly unfolds with peaks disappearing as far as the eye can see.

The Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

Then it’s along the ever-tightening shoulder to the 400m-long summit ridge which is punctuated by a half-demolished trig point, the summit cairn itself and one further cairn which gives one of the finest viewpoints in the Highlands - Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; hoof hill).

Core Dhorrcail From the Eastern Summit

views north and east are to die for so try and keep the mountain for a clear day. Immediately below you, the eye is led across the mighty chasm of Coire Dhorrcail to the fjord-like Loch Hourn and the mountains of Kintail and the Rough Bounds of Knoydart. If you’re a hillwaker, try and make this viewpoint at least once!

The View Up Loch Hourn From the Summit

We returned the same way (no golden eagles this time, as on my last visit), and the long miles back up Gleann na Guiserein led us eventually to the welcome refuge of the Old Forge and much-needed sustenance!

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe From Loch Nevis

This is a walking day, much more than a climbing day. The 2 Munros are not particularly high, complex or difficult. But they are a long way from home however you do them and from Inverie, you will cover a little over 27Km to gain both summits.

Gleann an Dubh-Lochain

This time, I elected to do them in a clock-wise direction, starting with the long 10Km walk up Gleann an Dubh-Lochain to the pass of Mam Barrisdale (450m). It is better to do this long walk-in in the morning, whilst relatively fresh, instead of facing it at the end of the day when the miles can feel very weary!

Luinne Bheinn

From Mam Barrisdale, we turned right and followed the line of fence-posts for 500m before traversing left up on to Bachd Mhic an Tossaich and the skyline ridge that leads to the summit of Luinne Bheinn (939m; angry hill). Again, great views in all directions await you with the green sward of Barrisdale immediately below you to the north.

Sgurr na Ciche

From the summit, we traversed over the slightly lower eastern top before descending steeply to the connecting ridge between the 2 Munros. A good path leads over or around all the lumps and bumps before the final steep (but relatively short) climb up to Meall Buidhe’s eastern top. The view east across the Rough Bounds is superlative with the graceful cone of Sgurr na Ciche a particular highlight. It’s a short hop across to the 2^nd Munro summit of the day: Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill).

Meall Buidhe

Not for the first time, the view west out to sea from this summit was bathed in sunshine with a sparkling sea and the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides proving to be a great reward for our efforts. The view stays with you as you descend westwards - and will live long in the memory if you choose the right day!

The View West From the Summit

The most expeditious descent from the mountain’s W ridge begins just as it begins to narrow into Druim Righeanaich. You have a choice between steep grassy slopes or easier-going stony ground. However, once June arrives, the waist-deep bracken will make any descent here tricky so plan accordingly! Once down into Gleann Meadail, aim for the obvious bridge immediately east of the choke-point below Torr an Tuirc and pick up the track that leads all the way back to Inverie.

Mull - Ben More

Ben More From the Abhainn Dhiseig

We started, as I’ve always done, from Dhiseig and headed up the signposted track/path alongside the Abhainn Dhiseig. Ben More doesn’t take long to climb - it’s a very straightforward route, mostly up grassy slopes with some volcanic scree as you approach the summit.

A' Chioch From Ben More

There’s no walk-in as such, you just get out of the car and walk up the mountain. The views across Loch na Keal expand steadily as you climb and Iona and Staffa are clearly visible to the west. In the other direction, looking towards the mainland, there are mountains everywhere!

Although early in the season, we had plenty of company on the hill, but there was no summit string quartet as on a previous visit! The summit itself is a fine viewpoint as you would expect from the highest point on any island. This particular summit, however, is always a pleasure to visit: Ben More (966m; big hill).

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Lawers - East & West

2016-05-10T12:29:00.000+01:00

Ben Lawers & An Stuc

Whilst the 7 Munros of the Ben Lawers group can be tackled in one (very) long day, assuming you have 2 cars, it is considerably more enjoyable to split the group up into 2 or 3 more manageable chunks. With just 67 summits left to complete her (first?) Munro round, Jennifer was very happy to start her 2016 campaign adopting this strategy.

Meall nan Tarmachan From Meall Corranaich

Stunning spring weather and sensible start-of-season planning combined to produce a great couple of days high above Killin tackling the westernmost 2 and easternmost 3 of the range. This has left Ben Lawers itself and Beinn Ghlas for another time - the end, in fact, as Jenn has decided that the UK’s 10^th highest peak would be a fitting candidate as her last Munro!

The Ben Lawers Range

Ben Lawers (West): Meall a’ Choire Leith & Meall Corranaich

We parked beneath the large cairn beside the road at the head of the pass into Glen Lyon. The outlying grassy lump of Meall a’ Choire Leith is awkwardly placed some way north of the main Lawers ridge.

Meall Corranaich

There’s no convenient direct path from this direction so we traversed across the open country using the contours to negotiate an intermediate mound and then around the NW shoulder of Meall Corranaich into Coire Gorm before finally arriving at the mountain proper! Whilst we paused for refreshment, a lone fell-runner appeared from over the summit scattering a herd of at least 25 red deer that disappeared into Coire Liath.

Meall a’ Choire Leith

Having intercepted the main ridge path (at last), we followed it up the short, easy southern ridge of Meall a’ Choire Leith to the flat summit (926m; hill of the grey corrie). This is much more of a Glen Lyon hill than a Loch Tay one and you can see why, given the commanding views you enjoy of that glen from the rounded summit. A pair of ptarmigan surveyed our upward progress; their white winter plumage almost gone.

Ben Lawers From Meall a’ Choire Leith

We returned down the mountain’s southern ridge which in turn lead conveniently on to the northern ridge of our next peak. This was excellent ridge walking now and steep grassy slopes on either side helped reinforce the airy feel about the walk. We side-stepped a couple of large snowfields and it did get a touch breezy, but in no time at all we were standing on our 2^nd summit and Munro of the day: Meall Corranaich (1069m; crooked hill).

Last of the Snow on Meall Corranaich

Ben Lawers (East): Meall Greigh, Meall Garbh & An Stuc

Meall Greigh

Day 2 saw us parking at the private lay-by opposite the bone-carving shop in Lawers village. Having happily paid our £5 contribution to bone-carving research and Highland industry, we headed up the pretty wee path that winds up through the mixed woodland alongside the Lawers Burn. It’s a lovely spot.

Ben Lawers, An Stuc & Meall Garbh

A lack of wind was beginning to make the sheltered woodland too warm for comfort when just in time, we broke out on to the open hillside and a most welcome breeze. At 550m, we left the burn and climbed up the featureless grassy slopes to intersect the ridge (and path) that lead to the very welcoming summit of Meall Greigh (1001m; hill of horse studs).

Meall Greigh From Meall Garbh

Intermittent high cloud and occasional gusty winds kept the temperature down, but we could see for miles and the sun shone for much of the day. A second fell-runner appeared silently out of nowhere immediately behind us prompting a near-coronary event (she could have worn a bell!); ironically, our only human contact of the day. The easy path and decaying fence posts lead us along the broad grassy shoulder and up to the rather more interesting summit ridge of Meall Garbh (1118m; rough hill).

Meall Garbh

Once here, the view became dominated by Ben Lawers itself and right in front of us, the sharp wedge of today’s final Munro: An Stuc. It’s less than a kilometre away but you have to descend steeply to the narrow bealach between the peaks and then climb even more steeply up the fairly eroded path that leads up a greasy gulley to the small summit of the mountain – An Stuc (1118m; the peak). This is perhaps the most photogenic and interesting of the Lawers range and is well placed directly above the feline-shaped Lochan nan Cat which sits snugly beneath the encircling cliffs of An Stuc’s eastern aspect.

An Stuc

We descended SW to the Bealach Dubh (black pass) and then peeled off left and descended steeply to the W shore of the lochan - usually fairly straightforward, but complicated today by a most inconveniently-placed snowfield that required some careful attention! Once down, we traversed the open ground beside the lochan and followed it until we picked up the morning’s path for a very entertaining descent back down to Lawers village.

An Stuc Above Lohan nan Cat

So, after another prolonged winter in the Highlands, spring has finally arrived and these 2 fine hill days have hopefully set the scene for a cracking summer’s hillwalking……

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Tyndrum Hills - Ben Oss & Beinn Dubhchraig

2016-04-17T09:59:00.000+01:00

Ben Oss & Ben Lui From Glen Cononish

A break in the extended winter weather afforded an opportunity to start getting hill-fit with a mid-April day out amongst the Ben Lui group above Tyndrum.

Glen Cononish

High winds and on-going wintery conditions on the higher slopes suggested a complete round of all 4 peaks might be a touch ambitious so I opted for just 2: Ben Oss & Beinn Dubhchraig.

Beinn Chuirn Above Cononish Farm

Rather than taking the longer, more boggier and more difficult-going route from Dalrigh up into Coire Dubhchraig, I opted, as usual, for the shorter, dryer and easier-going line of approach from Glen Cononish. A forestry track from Tyndrum Lower Station provides a neat short-cut into the glen where a wee footbridge across the River Cononish gives convenient access to the upper slopes.

The Key to the Route: the Cononish Footbridge

A 300m steady climb up grassy slopes leads to the NE shoulder of Beinn Dubhchraig which then leads much more gently to the summit ridge where 2 small lochans mark the junction. From here, a 10-min walk leads to the small summit cairn of Beinn Dubhchraig (978m; hill of the black rock).

Beinn Dubhchraig

Retracing my steps to the lochans, the climb up to Ben Oss was harder going into wind. Don’t be seduced into taking the path that traverses around the mountain's steep southern side above Coire Garbh. Instead, bear right up the natural ridge-line over Spot Height 941 until the summit eventually comes to you - Ben Oss (1029m; hill of the elk).

Ben Oss

The obvious route home is to return to the 2 lochans and descend the way you came in, taking care not to descend too early into Glen Cononish therby avoiding some pesky crags. This is a good winter day route, which is just as well as this winter seems to be going on and on and on.......

Beinn Dubhchraig

Check out my plans for the coming season at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

Winter Skills - Lochaber

2016-04-06T12:12:00.000+01:00

Three days of quality winter skills activity under blue skies on pristine snow transmogrified into the usual ‘improvise and adapt’ kind of trip so common at this time of year in the Scottish mountains!

Steall Waterfall & Water of Nevis

Still, Karthik’s first venture into the winter hills got him to the top of Ben Nevis, an exploration of Glen Nevis and a few hours digging snow anchors whilst battling ferocious snow showers!

Upper Glen Nevis

Strong winds and driving rain prevented us from going high on the first day, Indeed, they almost prevented us from going anywhere! In the event, the weather relented just sufficiently to allow us to venture up Glen Nevis to inspect the Steall waterfall and for Karthik to practice his trapeze skills on the wire bridge.

Steall Bridge

Day 2 saw us climbing up the tourist path (currently undergoing some welcome repair work) on to a cloud-girt Ben Nevis. We entered the cloud and snow about half-way up and it was full white-out conditions on top.

Approaching Half-way!

Some of the summit navigation pillars were buried making progress difficult for some, but the wind was mercifully light which kept the wind-chill at bay.

Below the Snowline...

The Easter holidays ensured a busier than usual mountain for the time of year and the summit was anything but deserted. So following the obligatory photo shoot, we headed down and were greeted with a glint of afternoon sunlight when we emerged below the clouds.

Glen Nevis

Seven hours was a creditable time under the conditions and Karthik got to try crampons for the first time, so we got at least one winter tick in!

...And Above It!

Day 3 heralded the onset of frequent blustery snow showers on Aonach Mor which led the Nevis Range ski complex to review operations throughout the morning.

Improvising and Adapting!

We took the gondola up to 650m and traversed to the nearest useable snowfield where we managed to run through some winter skills in between the showers. Mindful that the gondola might stop at any time, we did what we had to and then escaped down before things got too bad.

And Just Plain Suffering!

So, not quite the planned 3-day package, but we managed to tick all the boxes and went home happy to await the on-set of spring……..

Check out my plans for the coming season at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

Ben Nevis - A Season Opener

2016-02-06T09:44:00.000+00:00

Winter on the Ben

A first visit to Fort William by James and Esther offered the chance of a winter ascent of the Ben. The preceding few days had seen a significant thaw of the winter snow pack so the snow line was quite high with the snow not really deep enough for our planned winter skills activities.

Below the Snow Line!

The weather was forecast to deteriorate later in the day so we made an early start from Achintee Farm under leaden skies. It was still dry though and the surrounding Munros were still clear on top.

Meall an t-Suidhe From the Red Burn

There was no snow on the lower part of the mountain so we made good time traversing around Meall an t-Suidhe, past its eponymous lochan and up to the crossing of the Red Burn.

The Red Burn

Then came the 8 zig-zags which took us into the cloud, ice and snow which were to be our constant companions for the next couple of hours! Predictably, the cloud thickened and the wind speed increased significantly approaching the summit plateau. Picking out the navigation pillars became quite a challenge in the near white-out conditions.

Starting Up the Zig-Zags

Eventually though, the summit loomed into view (what there was of the latter) and we fought our way to the trig point as walkers and climbers emerged out of the white wilderness to converge on top of the mountain. It was not a place to linger today and James and Esther needed no prompting to start heading back after the obligatory summit photo shoot.

Made It!

By now the snow had set in and the cloudbase had lowered so we were well down the zig-zags before the glen started to emerge far below us. The snow turned to rain half-way down and this continued for the rest of the day (and weekend)! We were back at the car in 6½ hrs, a commendable time in these conditions. We hadn’t enjoyed much in the way of far-away views, but we had encountered full-on Scottish winter mountains conditions. And, at the end of the day, that was the aim of the day.

That'll Be Winter Then!

The following day, relentless heavy rain (blizzards higher up) and high winds put paid to our plans for the Lost Valley in Glen Coe and even the drive home across Rannoch Moor proved challenging. Winter - you just got to love it!

Check out my plans for the coming season at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

Kintail & Glen Carron

2015-08-29T08:48:00.000+01:00

The Coulin Forest Hills From Above Glen Carron

Having enjoyed a successful couple of days in Glen Affric, we moved across to Kintail with the intention of finishing the Cluanie Munros as well as the remote hills above Glen Carron. Unfortunately, the weather refused to co-operate and the loss of one day due to heavy rain forced a re-plan.

Mullach Fraoch-choire & A’ Chralaig

Mullach Fraoch-choire

These 2 steep-sided monsters above the Cluanie Inn were the subject of our first foray and a reasonably comfortable 6 hr day saw us achieve both summits.

Stob Coire na Cralaig

Parking a mile E of the Cluanie Inn, we headed up the deep cleft of An Caorann Mor taking the vehicle track as far as its termination at 350m. From here, we struck up across the open hillside climbing ever-steepening grassy slopes into Coire a’ Ghlas-thuill and finally on to the skyline at Stob Coire na Cralaig (1008m).

Approaching Mullach Fraoch-choire

As the clouds parted to give us a welcome, if murky, view along the ridge, we traversed the sharpening ridge high above the surrounding glens and up on to the shapely summit of Mullach Fraoch-choire (1102m; hill of the heathery corrie).

A’ Chralaig

Following a brief, windswept photoshoot, we retraced our steps to Stob Coire na Cralaig before continuing S along the ridge. The return of the cloud denied us any view, but it didn’t take too long before the big distinctive stone pillar of our 2^nd Munro loomed out of the mist: A’ Chralaig (1120m; the creel).

Glen Shiel

Descending from the summit, we followed the long S ridge before plummeting down the very steep grassy slopes of Fuaran Mor Chluainidh as heavy showers swept up Glen Shiel. Fortunately for once, most of them missed us!

Sgurr Choinnich & Sgurr a’ Chaorachain

Glenuig

These 2 Munros are sometimes done together with the remote lump of Maoile Lunndaidh but today we opted for just the 2 more accessible hills. Starting from Craig, we followed the recently upgraded track up into Glenuig alongside the Allt a’ Chonais.

Sgurr a’ Chaorachain From Sgurr Choinnich

Crossing the river at Pollan Buidhe was always going to be a problem and the 2-wire bridge did not inspire much confidence as a safe means of doing so! Consequently, it was off with boots and socks and a short, icy wade to reach the opposite bank.

When the Going Gets Tough...

We followed the excellent stalker’s path up to a very windy Bealach Bhearnais before turning E and climbing the steep, well-defined ridge that put us on Jenn’s 200^th Munro: Sgurr Choinnich (999m; mossy peak). Hat’s off to Jenn after some difficult weather on many of the summits, at least one thunderstorm and most of the peaks coming in only 4 years!

200 Up!

After an appropriate celebration, we descended E to the intervening bealach before completing one final climb to the trig point on the flat summit of Sgurr a’ Chaorachain (1053m; peak of the torrent). There were great views for a while, particularly across to the very remote Munros of Lurg Mhor and Bidean a’ Choire Sheasgaich. The weather had ensured we would have to return another time to capture these distant hills.

Sgurr Choinnich

The highlight of the descent was undoubtedly the sight of 2 golden eagles circling just above us - always a great event! A few red deer also contributed to the Highland scene!

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

The Affric Hills

2015-08-25T17:17:00.000+01:00

Glen Affric

Difficult though it may be to recall given the pretty rubbish summer we’ve had, but July 2014 saw debilitating high temperatures in the Highlands. Consequently, last year’s trip to the Affric hills had to be cut short and Matt & Jenn had unfinished business to attend to in their pursuit of Munro glory!

Tom a’ Choinich

Tom a’ Choinich & Toll Creagach

These 2 straightforward hills provided an ideal first day. The distances were relatively modest and the weather pretty good - clear on top with occasional sunshine and only a cool wind to spoil the party.

Tom a’ Choinich

We started from the Chisolm Bridge a couple of miles short of the road-end in Glen Affric and took the track up Gleann nam Fiadh as far as the Allt Toll Easa, but not before it had deteriorated into a somewhat boggy wee path. Turning right uphill, we followed the burn up to the lip of Toll Easa before turning left and climbing the craggy spur of Creag na h-Inghinn. From here, a well-defined ridge led us rather pleasantly to Tom a’ Choinich (1112m; hill of the moss).

Carn Eighe From Tom a’ Choinich

Having admired the spectacular, if slightly hazy, panoramic view, we descended steeply E to the Bealach Toll Easa (872m) before a fairly easy climb over a wide grassy ridge placed us on the flat summit of Toll Creagach (1054m; rocky hollow).

Toll Creagach

Then it was simply a matter of descending the gentle S slopes of the mountain to intercept the outward track in Gleann nam Fiadh and retrace our steps back to the car. An easy Day 1 with the serious risk of heat exhaustion now a distant memory!

Mam Sodhail From Carn Eighe

Mam Sodhail, Carn Eighe & Beinn Fhionnlaidh

There’s no easy way of capturing these 3 remote Munros including as they do, the 2 highest mountains N of the Great Glen. But in the end, sacrificing a circular route for better conditions underfoot gave us a 9 hr out-and-back day with reasonably good going and a successful haul of all 3 Munros!

Glen Affric

Starting from the road-end in Glen Affric, we followed the track above the N shore of Loch Affric for 5 Km before taking the long-established stalker’s path up into Coire Leachavie (now a well-engineered vehicle track for the first kilometer due to a new hydro installation).

Sgurr na Lapaich From Mam Sodhail

At 800m, we turned N and climbed up to the skyline before following the long narrow ridge that leads to the imposing hollow stone cairn that crowns the summit of Mam Sodhail (1181m; hill of the barns). Unsurprisingly, given the mountain’s height and position, the views are mightily impressive in all directions and stretched from the Cairngorms to Ben Nevis to Torridon in a single sweep!

Beinn Fhionnlaidh & Carn Eighe From Mam Sodhail

It’s a short hop down and then up to the adjoining slightly higher twin of Carn Eighe (1183m; file hill). The view is much the same but now includes Loch Mullardoch and the adjoining peaks.

Loch Mullardoch

From the summit, a fairly steep, well-defined ridge drops quickly to the Bealach Beag (832m) from where easy grassy slopes lead to the very remote, but always welcome, summit of Beinn Fhionnlaidh (1005m; Finlay’s hill).

Beinn Fhionnlaidh

The knowledge of just how far you’ve come (and therefore, just how far you’ve got to go) always takes the edge off the elation of reaching such a remote summit. Nevertheless, we were happy with our route strategy and the return to the car passed fairly painlessly, contouring around Carn Eighe and back over Mam Sodhail before the stalker’s path and vehicle tracks returned us to our start point.

Carn Eighe & Mam Sodhail From Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Having achieved what we set out to do with Matt & Jenn completing the Affric Munros, it was time for a day off and a move across to Kintail for some more unfinished business on the west coast. Somewhat predictably however, the weather was about to change….

Evening Light on Scots Pines in Glen Affric

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

The Pentland Hills (all 26.2 miles of ‘em)!

2015-08-15T16:26:00.000+01:00

The 'Before' Shot!

Sitting firmly in the ‘it seemed a good idea at the time’ camp, this weekend’s canter over, around and through the Pentlands proved to be an interesting (if tiring) twist on familiar ground.

Carnethy Hill

The 26.2 mile course is the Gold Route for next month’s Pentland Push (http://pentlandpush.com/the-push/) in aid of St Columba’s Hospice in Edinburgh. Trying out the full course a month before the event itself seemed a good idea to Caroline who has entered. Aileen thought it would be useful training for her trip to Kilimanjaro in October. I did as I was told.

Castlelaw Hill

Reasonable weather and an early start ensured a good chance of achieving our target time of 8hrs 40 mins which 2 separate training sessions over the 2 halves of the course had suggested as being realistic. They had also revealed that the eastern half of the course over the hills was definitely more interesting than the western half over the moors around the North Esk Reservoir near Carlops. This again proved to be the case!

The Eastern Pentlands

In the end we achieved 8hrs 30 mins for the 26.2 mile course with a total height climbed of 2167m/7110’. Next week’s visit to the Affric hills and Kintail will seem like a walk in the park by comparison! Good luck to both girls on their charitable endeavours for great causes (St Columba’s Hospice and Breast Cancer Now).

Glencorse Reservoir

Here’s a record of the day, best told in pictures……….

Approaching Allermuir Hill (2 miles/1hr)

Climbing Turnhouse Hill (6 miles/1hr 45 mins)

The Howe (9 miles/2hrs 40 mins)

North Esk Reservoir (14½ miles/4 hrs 50 mins)

Spittal Hill (15 miles/5hrs 15 mins)

West Kip (17 miles/6 hrs)

The Howe (19 miles/6hrs 45 mins)

Loganlea Reservoir (21 miles/7 hrs)

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

Ben Chonzie

2015-08-09T20:10:00.000+01:00

Ben Chonzie

Continuing rubbish weather prompted a change of plan this weekend and this straightforward Perthshire hill seemed a better bet than a long day in cloud and drizzle on Ben Nevis.

Glen Turret

The high start (350m) offered by the car park at the Loch Turret Reservoir dam helped get us off to a good start and we fair cantered along the loch-side track to the head of the head of Glen Turret. Unlike a previous visit, there was no circling pair of hen harriers to brighten the day, but we did get to see a number of noisy ring ouzels that impressed at least one member of the group!

Loch Turret Reservoir

After all this summer’s rain, the boggy ground between the end of the track and the skyline was even wetter than usual and it was a relief to gain the firmer ground (and, alas, cloud) of the open hill-side. Twenty minutes later, we were huddled in the very welcome windbreak on the cold and windy summit of Ben Chonzie (931m; mossy hill).

Still in cloud, we continued along the summit ridge before turning SE to traverse the wide, flat grassy ridgeline and eventually, the short, sharp climb up on to Carn Chois (786m). Then it was all downhill over wet grassy slopes back down to the reservoir and the track back to the dam. Despite the lack of views, we’d enjoyed our day in the clouds and the decision to leave Ben Nevis alone for another day had proved to be a good one. After all, it wasn’t going anywhere!

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

The Cairngorms

2015-07-20T18:23:00.000+01:00

Coire an t-Sneachda

A few days battling high winds on the Cairngorm plateau, but ultimately successful and, as always, very enjoyable.

Cairn Gorm & Ben Macdui

South Towards Beinn Mheadhoin & Derry Cairngorm

The maximum wind speed we experienced was 47 knots which was hard work, but just manageable. Having checked out the conditions on Cairn Gorm itself, we managed to fight our way across the plateau to Ben Macdui where guests for lunch included a hungry snow bunting!

Loch Etchachan & a Distant Cairn Gorm

Then it was down to Loch Etchachan and a challenging crossing of its outflow before descending into the Loch Avon basin past the Shelter Stone. Negotiating an in-spate Feith Buidhe took time and patience whilst we detoured some way upstream to find a safe crossing place.

Loch Avon

Then it was sharply up into Coire Raibeirt and back over the plateau to Spot Height 1141 before descending into Coire Cas and returning to the car.

Loch Avon & Cairn Gorm

Although the distance and time were relatively modest for a Cairngorm day, those hours spent battling the high gusty winds sapped a lot of energy out of tired bodies and the effect was of a much longer day.

Braeriach

Mighty Braeriach

Lighter winds made for a more enjoyable day on the UK’s 3^rd highest peak. Starting from the Sugar Bowl car park on the Cairn Gorm ski road, we joined the visitors to the reindeer paddock (briefly!) before traversing through the Chalamain Gap to the northern portal of the Lairig Ghru.

Lairig Ghru

From here, the excellent recently upgraded path eased the pull up the Sron na Lairige before finally entering cloud at 1100m. This denied us any views down into Coire Bhrochain or across the mighty An Garbh Choire, but Braeriach still remains my favourite Cairngorm mountain even though I have yet to return just to explore it properly rather than just reach the summit!

South Down the Lairig Ghru

Conditions were not conducive to continuing around An Garbh Choire to Cairn Toul so we returned the same way, happy with our lot and not feeling at all short-changed. You rarely do in the Cairngorms!

Towards Ryvoan & Meall a' Bhuachaille

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

Ben Vane

2015-07-11T17:11:00.000+01:00

Ben Vane

Another day in the Arrochar Alps this summer; this one far from summery with cloud and rain taking the edge of this fine wee mountain. Still, these hills always look their best in summer when the grass and bracken turn rich shades of green.

Ben Vane From Ben Vorlich

It was Lisa’s first Munro and hopefully, she won’t rely upon the day’s conditions to influence any future plans to do more!

Looking Down on Coiregrogain & Loch Lomond

Despite the conditions, there were quite a few folk about with whom to share the occasional view and discuss - yes, you've guessed - the weather! Ben Vane (915m; middle hill).

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

The Hills of Summer

2015-07-03T19:31:00.000+01:00

The Cobbler

Since the cold, wet and windy days of Ullapool last month, the contrary summer of 2015 has finally got its act together and produced some classic summer hill-days that I’ve been lucky enough to share.

The Cobbler

The Cobbler

This model mountain has to be the most entertaining peak in the southern Highlands and is great fun getting to know. Try and leave it for a warm and sunny day, preferably late afternoon or evening (sunset a real bonus) and take your time to explore all 3 of its summits.

The North Summit

An excellent path zig-zags up from the Forestry Commission car park at Succoth on the shores of Loch Long and the classic profile of the wee man springs into view once you are clear of the plantations.

In Amongst It!

The well-engineered path continues up beside the Buttermilk Burn and through the Narnain Boulders before climbing steeply on to the skyline between the north and central summits. The former is an easy walk, but the latter - the highest point on the mountain - requires a deft wriggle through a large hole (Argyll’s Eyepiece) in the summit column. This is followed by a few paces of steady traversing of a rock shelf before scrambling up on to the summit. The Cobbler (884m).

The Summit

The south summit lies close-by, but this does require a more challenging scramble on exposed rock that some might find a climb too far. Don’t worry, you’re unlikely to feel short-changed!

The South & Central Summits From the North Summit

Descending from the 3 summits in warm evening sunshine with views of Loch Long and Ben Lomond before you is likely to stay in the mind for a long time.

Ben Lomond & Arrochar Across Loch Long

Meall Chuaich

Meall Chuaich

This straightforward outlier, 25 mins S of Aviemore, is a good bet for a travel day and so it was that Doctor Jon opted to do it whilst driving between Ullapool and Aberdeen airport (well, why wouldn’t you)?

Loch Cuaich

A nice high start (350m) and the close proximity to the A9 make for a relatively quick ascent. We parked at Cuaich and followed the aqueduct as far as Loch Cuaich, leaving the track soon after it crosses the Allt Coire Chuaich. The hill path is clear and only muddy lower down. It stayed dry and clear for us and Jon got his view so happy days! Meall Chuaich (951m; hill of the quaich).

Meall Chuaich From the Aqueduct

We returned the same way and were back at the car just over 4hrs after setting out. An easy half-day, but enjoyable as always.

Beinn Chabhair

Beinn Chabhair

This lumpy mountain lies hidden above the A82 on the drive N along Loch Lomond. It doesn’t take all day though and is relatively close to Glasgow, so it’s a good choice for a short day.

The Summit Ridge

We parked at the idiosyncratic Drover’s Inn at Inverarnan and followed the very welcome footpath alongside the A82 for 300m before turning right and crossing the River Falloch towards Beinglas Farm. Here, the climbing starts - up a clear path alongside the Ben Glas Burn which passes close to the impressive waterfalls half-way up the slope.

The Ben Glas Burn Waterfall

Passing 300m, the slope eases and the path continues (less clearly in places) alongside the burn almost as far as Lochan Beinn Chabhair which comes into view quite late. The path then climbs NE up to the skyline reaching it immediately E of Meall nan Tarmachan. Here, the wind really hit us and it was quite a battle along the humps and bumps of the ridge before we finally reached the summit cairn: Beinn Chabhair (933m; hill of the hawk).

Approaching the Summit

We returned the same way, squelching through the occasional bog with considerably less care and attention than on the way up. That’s how it tends to go when there’s an inn serving hot food just over the next rise!

Beinn Dorain & Beinn Dothaidh

Beinn Dorain

Another glorious summer’s day, just right for these 2 conspicuous Munros that sit conveniently beside the A82 and West Highland Line and directly above the Bridge of Orchy Hotel.

Beinn an Dothaidh

The path (clear and obvious) starts on the far side of the station underpass and climbs steadily up into Coire an Dothaidh to the skyline bealach (744m) that separates the 2 hills. Warm sunshine and the natural sounds and smells of summer made for an entertaining ascent that seemed to pass in no time at all. With ever-increasing expansive views, we headed S and followed the broad ridge over the subsidiary summits before arriving at the mountain’s highest point which is an outstanding viewpoint: Beinn Dorain (1076m; hill of the streamlet).

Approaching the Summit

The views ranged far and wide across the southern Highlands to Mull in the west, Ben Nevis further north, the distant Cairngorms in the NE and Schiehallion in the east. Mountains mountains everywhere!

Beinn Achaladair & Beinn a' Chreachain From the Summit

Returning to the bealach past the odd lingering snow patch, there just remained the very straightforward ascent of the grassy slopes that lead to the central and highest peak of Beinn an Dothaidh (1004m; hill of scorching).

The View South From Beinn an Dothaidh

More great views from here - down into Coire Achaladair and across Rannoch Moor and beyond to the serrated peaks of Lochaber. Just time for a short sunbathe before a rapid descent across the grass to the bealach and down the path to the hotel and the all-too-rare rare opportunity for some al fresco dining!

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/

The Ullapool Road & The Far North

2015-06-20T18:15:00.000+01:00

A Distant Slioch & Loch a’Bhraoin

The original plan was to spend a week based in Ullapool climbing the Fannaich, Beinn Dearg and Fisherfield groups of hills. A tall order requiring quite a few things to fall into place, not the least of which was the weather....

Sgurr Breac & A’ Chailleach

The Fannaichs (West): Sgurr Breac & A’ Chailleach

We started from the small parking area on the A832 close to Loch a’Bhraoin. The track leads down to a soon-to-be rebuilt ruined fishing lodge surrounded by new deer fencing. A detour path leads through the small plantation on the left to the bridge over the loch’s outflow.

The Fisherfield Hills

Soon after, you leave the stalker’s path and strike out across open ground heading straight for the blunt nose of Druim Reidh. A path winds its way through the steep crags and the top is gained without undue difficulty (although it’s a steep old pull for the start of a long week)!

Sgurr Breac

We followed the broad shoulder all the way to the culminating summit of Toman Coinich (935m) which is the centre of an entertaining ridge connecting today’s 2 Munros. From this airy viewpoint, the whole of the northern Highlands suddenly appears with wide views from the Cairngorms to Torridon and from the Outer Hebrides to Ben Hope.

An Teallach

Today’s peaks are fairly close together so it didn’t take long to head E to the flat summit of Sgurr Breac (999m; speckled peak).

Sgurr Breac

Retracing our steps, we traversed around the S side of Toman Coinich along the rim of impressive Toll an Lochain before climbing one last time to the grassy summit of A’ Chailleach (997m; the old woman)!

A’ Chailleach

We returned to the car via the broad shoulder of Druim Reidh accompanied by great views across to Fisherfield and mighty An Teallach.

Seana Bhraigh & Eididh nan Clach Geala

The Hills of Assynt & Coigach From Seana Bhraigh

Seana Bhraigh vies with A’ Mhaighdean & Lurg Mhor for the title of most remote Munro. Certainly, the near-14Km trek to reach its isolated summit supports such a contention! Moreover, approaching the mountain from the S across fairly mundane grassy slopes means you have to wait until a few steps short of the summit before the peak’s defining feature suddenly drops away in front of you revealing one of the finest corries in the Highlands. Go on, take a peep - it’s well worth the long walk!

Glen na Sguaib

We started from the newish car park at Inverlael and headed up the forestry track towards the old ruin of Glensquaib where extensive forestry operations have altered the landscape and created several new tracks.

Cadha Dearg

As such, the start of the stalker’s path up the flanks of Druim na Saobhaidhe took a little finding but thereafter, the path does what its always done: leads you across the wide open moorland with just a few deer for company and no sign of Seana Bhraigh! Eventually though, things start to happen and a string of lochans adds some texture to the surroundings as you approach the UK E/W watershed where the path peters out! A short section of wild terrain (difficult in mist) leads to the majestic sweep of Cadha Dearg, a near-perfect U-shaped glacial valley hemmed in by very impressive cliffs.

Cadha Dearg

It is as you round the head of this amazing defile that you actually start climbing Seana Bhraigh itself. Its been a long wait! A path (sketchy at first) climbs across wet and boggy grassland to the steepening slopes of the mountain’s S slopes until the cairn finally appears and your whole world drops away before your eyes into the awesome Luchd Choire. If you’re lucky, as we were today, you’ll get amazing views in every direction, none finer than NW to the wonderful individual peaks of Assynt & Coigach! It may be a long walk (4½ hrs) but this is a special place. Try not to rush away. Seana Bhraigh (926m; old height).

Luchd Choire, Seana Bhraigh

We returned (almost reluctantly), retracing our steps as far as the watershed. From here, a rising traverse across open ground led us up grassy slopes and around the odd snow patch to the summit boulder field of our 2^nd peak of the day (playing very much a supporting role): Eididh nan Clach Geala (927m; web of the white stones).

The Summer Isles & Ullapool From Eididh nan Clach Geala

An easy descent, joining up the grassy patches between the boulder fields, led us back down to the broad shoulder of Druim na Saobhaidhe where we intercepted our inbound path. We had been lucky - it had stayed dry, reasonably bright and fairly calm. All of this was about to change!

The Fannaichs (East): Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich, Sgurr Mor, Meal Gorm & An Coileachan

Meall Gorm

Today, we continued our quest to climb all 9 Munros in the Fannaich range during the week. The 4 easternmost peaks, which include the range’s highest point (the distinctive cone of Sgurr Mor), are best accessed from the Ullapool road starting as we did from the weather station on the S side of the road close to an inflow of Loch Glascarnoch. This gives the shortest access to the group as well as a helpful 270m start.

From here, a narrow, but clear, path faithfully follows the meanders of the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh for 3 Km to its confluence with the Allt an Loch Sgeirich. Here, we turned W over open ground to begin our ascent of Creag Dhubh Fannaich (757m) and soon after entering cloud, the broad stony summit of our 1^st Munro: Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich (954m; big grey hill of Fannaich).

Following a short ‘delicate’ descent W from the summit over loose boulders, we intercepted the stalker’s path that follows the rim of the impressive corrie of Loch a’ Mhadaidh. The slope quickly increases as you climb up a series of solifluction levels to the sharp, conical summit of the Fannaichs’ highest point: Sgurr Mor (1110m; big peak).

Sgurr Mor

All was cloudy and windy so this superb spot was not a place to linger today, alas. There then followed a long traverse in thick cloud, driving rain and strong, cold winds (late June!!!) along the main spine of the Fannaichs. It was really just a matter of counting the bumps as we struggled manfully over 2 intermediate tops to the next Munro: Meal Gorm (949m; blue hill).

From here, more abject misery led over slippery boulders and the wet grass of Bealach Ban and eventually to the last hill of the day: An Coileachan (923m; the little cock)! Another windswept and rainy summit in the clouds!

The Eastern Fannaichs

Down we went, following the mountain’s N ridge until Loch Gorm loomed out of the murk and we finally had a view! We traversed the W slopes of Meallan Buidhe before crossing interminable heather nothingness aiming for the bridge over the Albhainn a’ Ghiuthais Li. From here, the inbound path led us back to the car and the sweet relief of home sweet home. A pretty yuk day!

Ben Klibreck

Ben Klibreck

We were beginning to get the message weather-wise by now so the rest of the week was subject to some rapid re-planning. It started today, when the prospect of 4 big Munros in similar conditions to yesterday was firmly voted down and we opted instead for Ben Klibreck, a remote Munro further E and hopefully, out of the clutches of the west coast drizzle.

A long drive took us through Lairg and N on the Altnaharra road to the usual parking spot just N of Vagastie Farm. The River Vagastie was just fordable here and we made a boggy bee-line across the moors to the outflow of Loch nan Uan. Rising above us, like some heathery tidal wave, were the W ramparts of A’Chioch up which we then proceeded to stagger. These safely negotiated, we turned N along the ridge that leads to the summit slopes of Meall nan Con, the highest point on Ben Klibreck: (962m; hill of the speckled cliff).

South From Ben Klibreck

We returned the same way, negotiating a slightly easier line down the steepest slopes and re-crossing the wonderfully wet blanket bog. We were getting used to it by now!

The Fannaichs (Centre): Sgurr nan Each, Sgurr nan Clach Geala & Meall a’ Chrasgaidh

The Central Fannaichs

Having given up on tackling the Fisherfield hills, we used our last day to finish off the Fannaichs. Starting once again from the roadside on the A832, we took the track past Loch a’Bhraoin and on up the glen of the Allt Breabaig. It is best to leave the stalker’s path 50’ past the bridge, turn E for ½ Km to cross the river by another bridge and then follow a boggy ‘path’ for 1 Km S until you intercept the original stalker’s path again. This convoluted detour avoids a difficult crossing of the Allt Breabaig on the main stalker’s path.

The Allt Breabaig Glen

Two hours from the start, we reached the 550m bealach at the head of the glen and struck up open ground to the E, reaching the skyline at 810m. Here, we entered cloud so had no views for the short easy traverse S to Sgurr nan Each (923m; peak of the horses).

All In A Day's Work - Sgurr nan Each

There then followed a pretty straightforward traverse N up grassy slopes and solifluction levels to the summit cairn and half-destroyed trig point atop Sgurr nan Clach Geala (1093m; peak of the white stones). Unfortunately, we had no view down the vertical cliffs into impressive Coire Mor and the splendour of this amazing viewpoint was rather lost on the group today.

Sgurr nan Clach Geala

Finally, a gentle descent and traverse of grassy Am Biachdaich (place of fattening) led us to the last climb of the day (and week) up onto Meall a’ Chrasgaidh (934m; hill of the crossing).

Meall a’ Chrasgaidh

All done, so we descended W down easy grassy slopes and then not-so-easy heathery slopes until we intercepted the inbound stalker’s path and retraced our squelchy steps to the car.

So, a long, hard and at times challenging week requiring flexibility and improvisation, not to mention considerable physical and mental effort! Nevertheless, we achieved much of what we set out to do: the complete Fannaich range and one of the remotest Munros (Seana Bhraigh) with the added-on bonus of remote Ben Klibreck in the far north. The stats for the week are pretty impressive too: 102 Km walked; 6,300m climbed and 12 Munros. Well done guys - top effort!

Check out my plans for the summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/