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		<title>ReactOS Gets An Upgrade</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/reactos-gets-an-upgrade/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/reactos-gets-an-upgrade/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jenny List]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2026 02:00:07 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Software Hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[open source]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[operating systems]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reactos]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145933</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" fetchpriority="high" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?resize=400,225 400w" sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145969" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/reactos-gets-an-upgrade/new-reactos-featured/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg" data-orig-size="800,450" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="new-reactos-featured" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?w=800" /></div>A perennial in the esoteric operating system space is ReactOS, a project with its roots in the 1990s which is doing a pretty good job of creating an open source <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/reactos-gets-an-upgrade/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?resize=400,225 400w" sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145969" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/reactos-gets-an-upgrade/new-reactos-featured/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg" data-orig-size="800,450" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="new-reactos-featured" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/new-reactos-featured.jpg?w=800" /></div><p>A perennial in the esoteric operating system space is ReactOS, a project with its roots in the 1990s which is doing a pretty good job of creating an open source clone of 32-bit Windows. <a href="https://reactos.org/project-news/reactos-0416-released/" target="_blank">They have a new version out</a>, and it&#8217;s acquired some useful features.</p>
<p>Top of the list is a new graphical installer, removing the need for separate live and install ISOs, followed by improvements in video bug fixes and high definition audio drivers and subsystems. There&#8217;s a headless server install too, in which the GUI is suppressed. Perhaps most interesting, they are working on version syncing the open-source projects such as WINE on which they rely, meaning with luck that any improvements there will show up in ReactOS.</p>
<p>A while back <a href="https://hackaday.com/2025/11/04/jennys-daily-drivers-reactos-0-4-15/">we took a look at using ReactOS as a daily</a>, and found it to be quirks aside, as usable as you&#8217;rd expect a Windows XP clone to be. Given that there are plenty of pieces of hardware and software around that still need an early-2000s era Windows to run, this remains an OS to keep an eye on.</p>
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		<title>Fixing an Expensive Amprobe Cable Tracer With Mystery Fault</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Maya Posch]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 23:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Repair Hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[firmware]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NAND flash]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145870</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="472" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg 1271w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=250,148 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=400,236 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=800,472 800w" sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145895" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg" data-orig-size="1271,750" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=800" /></div>Perhaps the most annoying kinds of faults are those that involve expensive equipment that just sit around in a cupboard, only for them to just stop working at all. Such <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="472" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg 1271w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=250,148 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=400,236 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=800,472 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145895" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg" data-orig-size="1271,750" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_kit_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=800" /></div><p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" data-attachment-id="1145894" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/fixing-an-expensive-amprobe-cable-tracer-with-mystery-fault/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg" data-orig-size="341,292" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=341" class="size-medium wp-image-1145894 alignright" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?w=341" alt="" width="341" height="292" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg 341w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/amprobe_cable_tracer_firmware_check_fail_buy_it_fix_it_youtube.jpg?resize=250,214 250w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 341px) 100vw, 341px" />Perhaps the most annoying kinds of faults are those that involve expensive equipment that just sit around in a cupboard, only for them to just stop working at all. Such was the case with the £2,000 Amprobe cable trace kit that [Tom] bought for work-related purposes. After sitting around unused for a few years, the signal generating part of the kit refused to power up at all, with Fluke&#8217;s service department wanting at least £600 to even attempt a repair after already having had [Tom] cough up £70 to even get this quote.</p>
<p>Subsequently he instead sent it to [Buy it Fix it] on YouTube <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hVWNhX5Bhg" target="_blank">for an attempted repair</a>, which at the very least would be a less costly option. These systems use a signal generator connected to the cable, with a separate detector wirelessly tracking this signal. By itself that doesn&#8217;t sound too complex, but as it turns out it wasn&#8217;t quite so straightforward to diagnose.</p>
<p>After eliminating a basic power or display issue, the SoC&#8217;s boot sequence was traced, including reading from the 128 MB NAND Flash. At first glance the unit appeared to be trying to boot and work as normal, which was confirmed after finding a serial port and seeing the log output on it. This showed that the NAND Flash&#8217;s boot image failed validation due to apparent corruption.</p>
<p>After desoldering the TSOP 48 Flash package and stuffing it into a reader, at first glance the data on it looked fine. After a tragic detour with Google&#8217;s Gemini chatbot that led to a lot of wasted time, the solution that the human intelligence came up with was to crack open the tracer unit in the set and ogle at its firmware, in particular the bootloader.</p>
<p>Comparing the two Flash dump files, there were a few flipped bits in the bootloader section, likely due to cells in the Flash having lost their charge. Writing the generator&#8217;s Flash with a corrected image led to it booting up happily again into the Linux 2.6-based firmware, seemingly no worse for wear. Of course, one has to consider here that the NAND Flash IC clearly has a few leaky cells in it, so replacing it with a fresh one could be a good idea for a long-term fix.</p>
<p><span id="more-1145870"></span></p>
<p><iframe loading="lazy" title="Total Loss to Total Win! An Incredible £2000 Miracle Fix! | Amprobe AT-7000-EUR Repair" width="800" height="450" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4hVWNhX5Bhg?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Building An Energy-Harvesting Business Card</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/building-an-energy-harvesting-business-card/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/building-an-energy-harvesting-business-card/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Zoe Skyforest]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 20:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Misc Hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[business card]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[charlieplexing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[led]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NFC]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145974</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp 1280w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=400,225 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=800,450 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145999" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/building-an-energy-harvesting-business-card/hero-1400/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp" data-orig-size="1280,720" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="hero-1400" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?w=800" /></div>The hope is always that a good business card will leave a good impression. For those in the electronics field, they also serve as an opportunity to showcase creative design <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/building-an-energy-harvesting-business-card/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp 1280w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=400,225 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?resize=800,450 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145999" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/building-an-energy-harvesting-business-card/hero-1400/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp" data-orig-size="1280,720" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="hero-1400" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/hero-1400-e1788134770224.webp?w=800" /></div><p>The hope is always that a good business card will leave a good impression. For those in the electronics field, they also serve as an opportunity to showcase creative design skills. [Wilson Harper] demonstrates that ably <a href="https://wilsonharper.net/projects/businesscard/" target="_blank">with a rather nifty energy-harvesting build.</a></p>
<p>The card is based around a thin PCB in the typical business card size. It&#8217;s populated by 21 <a href="https://hackaday.com/2008/12/03/intro-to-charlieplexing/">Charlieplexed</a> LEDs, a small microcontroller, and some supporting components. Now, this is normally where you might expect the device to be powered by a small coin cell, maybe deftly integrated into the PCB thickness itself to make the card less cumbersome. But no—[Wilson] went a different route. The thing is that in 2026, most of us are carrying phones with NFC readers built in. Thus, the card was built to harvest this source of energy with a PCB trace antenna, designed with the aid of <a href="https://eds.st.com/antenna/#/" target="_blank">STM&#8217;s antenna inductance tools</a> and an LLM script lobbed into KiCad. All one needs to do is to pop the card on the back of a phone and the LEDs animate joyfully.</p>
<p>Design files are <a href="https://github.com/WiHarper/nfc_card" target="_blank">on Github</a> for the curious. You might also like to check out <a href="https://hackaday.com/2025/11/15/neural-networking-with-a-business-card/">some of the fancy business cards we&#8217;ve featured in the past</a>. Of course, if you&#8217;re working on just such a project yourself, you&#8217;re more than welcome to send it in to <a href="http://hackaday.com/submit-a-tip">the tipsline!</a></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">1145974</post-id>
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			<media:title type="html">hero-1400</media:title>
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		<title>Simulating UAVs In Unreal Engine</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/simulating-uavs-in-unreal-engine/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/simulating-uavs-in-unreal-engine/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Zoe Skyforest]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 18:30:12 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[drone hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Software Hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[simulation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[simulator]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[uav]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145975</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png 1920w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=400,225 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=800,450 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=1536,864 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145995" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/simulating-uavs-in-unreal-engine/pterosim-v0-1-0-release-0-7-screenshot-1/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png" data-orig-size="1920,1080" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="PteroSim v0.1.0 release 0-7 screenshot (1)" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?w=800" /></div>When it comes to building real-world flying vehicles, testing can be arduous and expensive. You have to find somewhere to fly, then you have to contend with environmental conditions and <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/simulating-uavs-in-unreal-engine/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="450" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png 1920w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=250,141 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=400,225 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=800,450 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?resize=1536,864 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145995" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/simulating-uavs-in-unreal-engine/pterosim-v0-1-0-release-0-7-screenshot-1/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png" data-orig-size="1920,1080" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="PteroSim v0.1.0 release 0-7 screenshot (1)" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/PteroSim-v0.1.0-release-0-7-screenshot-1.png?w=800" /></div><p>When it comes to building real-world flying vehicles, testing can be arduous and expensive. You have to find somewhere to fly, then you have to contend with environmental conditions and the possibility of damaging your craft if things go wrong. Simulation is a great solution to this, allowing testing without so much risk. To that end, [AlexanderRex] whipped up a platform for testing UAVs <a href="https://github.com/PteroLabsAI/PteroSim-UAV-Simulator" target="_blank">from the comfort of your computer desk.</a></p>
<p>PteroSim is intended as a comprehensive test bench for simulating autonomous aerial vehicles. It can run PX4, ArduPilot, and Betaflight binaries right in the simulator. The autopilot code is given simulated sensor data, and in turn responds with actuator commands, just as it would in a real craft. The simulator runs the flight dynamics using JSBSim, and the resulting scene is rendered in Unreal Engine 5.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;ve ever wanted to quickly road test different autopilot settings without heading out to the field or risking hardware, this is a great way to do so. It&#8217;s hard to beat the speed of iteration that is possible when testing on the computer on your desk. <a href="https://hackaday.com/2025/07/18/a-vulnerable-simulator-for-drone-penetration-testing/">We&#8217;ve featured similar work before, too.</a></p>
<p><span id="more-1145975"></span></p>
<p><iframe loading="lazy" title="PteroSim v0.1.0 release" width="800" height="450" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8CDnchf_Ulk?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">1145975</post-id>
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		<title>Defeating Bacteria In Hot Water Systems With A Heat Exchanger</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Zoe Skyforest]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 17:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Hackaday Columns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[heat exchanger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hot water]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hot water system]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Legionella pneumophila]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[legionnaires disease]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145605</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="533" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png 1200w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=250,167 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=400,267 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=800,533 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1146071" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/tankexchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png" data-orig-size="1200,800" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?w=800" /></div>The average hot water is a relatively simple appliance to understand. It uses gas or electricity to dump energy into water in the form of heat, keeping it at a <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="533" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png 1200w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=250,167 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=400,267 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?resize=800,533 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1146071" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/tankexchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png" data-orig-size="1200,800" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web_featured.png?w=800" /></div><p>The average hot water is a relatively simple appliance to understand. It uses gas or electricity to dump energy into water in the form of heat, keeping it at a pleasant temperature for uses like bathing and cleaning. Basic mechanisms are in place to ensure the water stays at a relatively constant temperature, neither too hot where it could cause burns, nor too cold such that it wouldn&#8217;t be fit for purpose.</p>
<p>One of the problems, though, is that sometimes storing water at the desired temperature can create the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. <a href="https://www.nist.gov/news-events/news/2026/07/nist-receives-new-patent-microbe-killing-water-heater?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHizUw4Xrisv0JzNh7YiuJn_0jQHmnUZU0JCt8cD8OMSrz9sgANTZ-Ws3UIs2_aem_H1tlvLgIMS6rmrgVMS5zSg" target="_blank">However, a neat little trick developed by NIST could solve that problem rather elegantly.</a></p>
<p><span id="more-1145605"></span></p>
<h2>You&#8217;re Hot And You&#8217;re Cold</h2>
<figure id="attachment_1145613" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1145613" style="width: 400px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" data-attachment-id="1145613" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/legionella_pneumophila_01/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg" data-orig-size="960,648" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="Legionella_pneumophila_01" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="&lt;p&gt;Legionella pneumophila, CDC, public domain&lt;/p&gt;
" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg?w=800" class="size-medium wp-image-1145613" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg?w=400" alt="" width="400" height="270" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg 960w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg?resize=250,169 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg?resize=400,270 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg?resize=800,540 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1145613" class="wp-caption-text">Legionella pneumophila is a bacteria that loves to grow in warm water. It can enter the body via aerosol and cause of Legionella&#8217;s disease. Credit: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Legionella_pneumophila_01.jpg" target="_blank">CDC</a>, public domain</figcaption></figure>
<p>One of the interesting problems of our modern era is that changing our water usage has changed the risk profile for pathogens growing in hot water. NIST has noted for some time that while the pipes in our walls haven&#8217;t changed size, things like our shower heads have changed their flow rate to save water. Less flow rate in the same sized pipes means that water stays in the pipes for longer, increasing the time in which harmful pathogens have to grow in that environment.</p>
<p>Chief amongst these pathogens? The one most commonly feared is <em>legionella pneumophila, </em>the bacterium responsible for causing Legionnaires&#8217; disease. The severe form of pneumonia comes with a fatality rate of 10%, and infection typically comes from inhaling aerosolized droplets containing the bacteria.</p>
<p>Of course, a great way to create aerosolized droplets filled with bacteria is to spray not-quite-hot water through a shower head. This is why hot water systems, particularly in large multi-occupancy buildings, are a risk for such infections. Legionnaires&#8217; disease is rare, but it&#8217;s always out there, with 6000 confirmed cases showing up in the US each year. It&#8217;s possible that the true number <a href="https://academic.oup.com/aje/article-abstract/188/9/1686/5521619?redirectedFrom=fulltext&amp;login=true" target="_blank">is up to 10 times higher</a> because the disease isn&#8217;t routinely tested for. The disease&#8217;s rarity is in part because engineers and tradespeople put in plenty of work to minimize the ability for the bacterium to breed in hot water systems. As NIST&#8217;s work demonstrates, though, there is possibly even more that could be done to tackle this problem.</p>
<p>Ideally, your hot water pipes in your house would not host <em>any</em> nasty bacteria. But often, hot water systems sit around 49 °C (120 °F), a temperature that&#8217;s hot enough to be useful and pleasant without a major scalding risk. <em>Legionella pneumophila </em>won&#8217;t easily grow at that temperature; the bacteria thrives between 20 °C to 45 °C (68 °F &#8211; 113 °F). Unfortunately, though, it&#8217;s not hot enough to kill the bacteria completely. Furthermore, water cools as it travels through pipes to an outlet, and thus pipes can be a perfect environment to spur further growth.</p>
<figure id="attachment_1145608" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1145608" style="width: 800px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" data-attachment-id="1145608" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/watertankexchanger_960x600_v4-1/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png" data-orig-size="2800,1460" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4 (1)" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?w=800" class="wp-image-1145608 size-large" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?w=800" alt="" width="800" height="417" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png 2800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?resize=250,130 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?resize=400,209 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?resize=800,417 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?resize=1536,801 1536w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/WaterTankExchanger_960x600_v4-1.png?resize=2048,1068 2048w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1145608" class="wp-caption-text"><em>The solution developed by NIST is simple—jack up the set point of the hot water heater, then fit a heat exchanger on top to cool outgoing hot water with the incoming cold supply. Credit: Brandon Hayes/NIST </em></figcaption></figure>
<p>The simple solution would be to simply jack up the hot water system to store water at a much higher temperature, say around 70 °C (160 °F).  This could be undesirable in many contexts, though, as water that hot can more easily cause burns. It would be ideal to <em>store</em> the water at a higher temperature, while making sure it was delivered at a slightly lower temperature so it didn&#8217;t hurt anybody when it left the tap or shower head.</p>
<figure id="attachment_1145609" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1145609" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" data-attachment-id="1145609" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/defeating-bacteria-in-hot-water-systems-with-a-heat-exchanger/tankexchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png" data-orig-size="1800,2400" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?w=469" class="wp-image-1145609 size-medium" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?w=300" alt="" width="300" height="400" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png 1800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?resize=188,250 188w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?resize=300,400 300w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?resize=469,625 469w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?resize=1152,1536 1152w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/TankExchanger_20210920_144327_edit_web.png?resize=1536,2048 1536w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1145609" class="wp-caption-text"><em>A prototype unit whipped up by NIST cost only about $100. Credit: NIST</em></figcaption></figure>
<p>It turns out that there is a remarkably simple way to achieve this. NIST developed a simple heat exchanger which can be mounted atop any old hot water system. It&#8217;s designed such that the hot water leaving the tank passes through a heat exchanger where it&#8217;s surrounded by cold water which is running to the water heater&#8217;s intake pipe. This has dual benefits. The hot water inside the tank can be stored in the tank at 70 °C, which kills almost all <em>legionella peumophila </em>almost instantly. That water, though, is then cooled to a slightly safer temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger and out to the tap or shower. The hot water remains at a safe temperature for the user, and contains far less harmful bacteria, and cooling it doesn&#8217;t introduce any pathogens from another source. In turn, the cold water coming into the tank is pre-warmed slightly by the hot water, so the energy isn&#8217;t simply wasted.</p>
<p>This trick isn&#8217;t just simple, it&#8217;s also cheap. NIST engineers were able to fabricate a prototype unit to fit to a residential water heater using just $100 of components. It could be a useful addition for homeowners looking to make their hot water service a little cleaner. However, the real benefits are likely to be for larger operators of multiple-occupancy facilities, like nursing homes and hotels. These facilities often have to take great care to avoid the build up of harmful bacteria in building-wide hot water systems. Having the ability to increase the tank temperature to the point that <em>legionella pneumophila </em>bacteria simply die off would be a huge boon to this effort.</p>
<p>Sometimes, it&#8217;s possible to make great gains with a simple hack. Using the cold water service to cool hotter outgoing water is a smart trick that uses only minimal additional equipment to offer a safer hot water supply. It could yet become a common install for hot water systems in order to fight the good fight against a harmful disease that likes to lurk in our pipes. If you happen to see a heat exchanger atop a hot water heater in future, you can smile that someone has done the work to try and make that hot water supply just a little safer going forward.</p>
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		<title>USB-C Adapted for Legacy Sprinkler Systems</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/usb-c-adapted-for-legacy-sprinkler-systems/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/usb-c-adapted-for-legacy-sprinkler-systems/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Bryan Cockfield]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 15:30:16 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[home hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[24v ac]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DC to AC]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sine wave]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[solenoid]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sprinkler]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[usb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[USB-PD]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1145950</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="441" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg 1536w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=250,138 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=400,220 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=800,441 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145957" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/usb-c-adapted-for-legacy-sprinkler-systems/usb-sprinkler-main/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg" data-orig-size="1536,846" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="usb-sprinkler-main" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?w=800" /></div>In the modern world USB has become a truly universal connector, with its inclusion on almost every major piece of consumer electronics. It has even expanded well beyond things that <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/usb-c-adapted-for-legacy-sprinkler-systems/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="441" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg 1536w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=250,138 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=400,220 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?resize=800,441 800w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1145957" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/usb-c-adapted-for-legacy-sprinkler-systems/usb-sprinkler-main/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg" data-orig-size="1536,846" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="usb-sprinkler-main" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/usb-sprinkler-main.jpg?w=800" /></div><p>In the modern world USB has become a truly universal connector, with its inclusion on almost every major piece of consumer electronics. It has even expanded well beyond things that we&#8217;d think of as consumer electronics, <a href="https://opensprinkler.com/ditch-the-transformer-four-ways-to-drive-sprinkler-solenoids-with-usb-c/" target="_blank">like the solenoids on automatic sprinkler systems</a>.</p>
<p>This project comes to us from [Ray Wang] at <a href="http://opensprinkler.org" target="_blank">opensprinkler.org</a> who has been working on various ways of controlling the old sprinkler standards, which generally rely on a 24 VAC power supply to drive solenoids. This tests uses the power available from USB-PD and closely examines four methods of energizing the solenoids: unipolar PWM, dual voltage, synthesizing an AC wave from a DC supply, and producing a bipolar square wave. The bipolar square wave had some interesting results, being able to get pretty close to the behavior of a true sine wave while minimizing the dedrmand on power electronics.</p>
<p>For those working on old sprinkler systems, or many other antiquated systems that still rely on 24 VAC, this project shows that USB can deliver a surprising amount of power in unique ways, and the fact that it&#8217;s near-ubiquitous and affordable makes it that much easier to adapt into situations it was never really designed for.</p>
<p>These old sprinkler systems have other ways of working on modern systems as well, <a href="https://hackaday.com/2025/08/22/converting-a-sprinkler-system-to-dc/">like this one which replaces the AC source for a DC one</a>, but with a few caveats.</p>
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		<title>What&#8217;s Mu Metal?</title>
		<link>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/</link>
					<comments>https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Al Williams]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 14:00:37 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Engineering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Interest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Original Art]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[magnetic shielding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mu metal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[permalloy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[transatlantic cable]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://hackaday.com/?p=1142993</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="484" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg 3000w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=250,151 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=400,242 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=800,484 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=1536,929 1536w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=2048,1239 2048w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1146047" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/mumetal/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg" data-orig-size="3000,1815" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="MUmetal" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?w=800" /></div>If you tear into old TVs or recording equipment, you may see shields made from some exotic-looking metal. Old timers will tell you it&#8217;s called mu metal, and its purpose <a href="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/" class="read-more">&#8230;read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="800" height="484" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?w=800" class="attachment-large size-large wp-post-image" alt="" style="margin: 0 auto; margin-bottom: 15px;" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg 3000w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=250,151 250w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=400,242 400w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=800,484 800w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=1536,929 1536w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?resize=2048,1239 2048w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" data-attachment-id="1146047" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/mumetal/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg" data-orig-size="3000,1815" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="MUmetal" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/MUmetal.jpg?w=800" /></div><p>If you tear into old TVs or recording equipment, you may see shields made from some exotic-looking metal. Old timers will tell you it&#8217;s called <em>mu metal</em>, and its purpose is to &#8212; sort of &#8212; shield things from magnetic fields. The qualification is important. Unlike a conductive RF shield, mu metal doesn&#8217;t really stop a magnetic field. Instead, it gives magnetic flux an easier path to follow around whatever you&#8217;re trying to protect.</p>
<h2>What&#8217;s In The Metal?</h2>
<p>Mu metal belongs to a family of soft magnetic nickel-iron alloys. A typical modern formulation is about 80% nickel and 15% iron, with molybdenum and a few other elements making up most of the remainder. What makes it useful is its extremely high magnetic permeability. Commercial material can have relative permeability around 100,000 or more, and some specialty alloys can reach even higher.</p>
<p>You can think about reluctance as the magnetic equivalent of resistance. Put a high-permeability shell around something sensitive, and magnetic flux would much rather travel through the shell than through the space inside it, just like current tends to take the path of least resistance.</p>
<p>This works particularly well for DC and low-frequency fields, exactly where your usual copper or aluminum EMI shield isn&#8217;t much help.</p>
<p><span id="more-1142993"></span></p>
<h2>You May Have Seen It Before</h2>
<p><figure id="attachment_1143114" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1143114" style="width: 377px" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" data-attachment-id="1143114" data-permalink="https://hackaday.com/2026/08/31/whats-mu-metal/shield-4/" data-orig-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg" data-orig-size="551,584" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;2.8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;DSC-V3&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1123338365&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;7&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.025&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="shield" data-image-description="" data-image-caption="&lt;p&gt;A multilayer magnetic shield box. (Photo by [Zureks] CC-BY-SA-3.0)&lt;/p&gt;
" data-large-file="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg?w=551" class="size-medium wp-image-1143114" src="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg?w=377" alt="" width="377" height="400" srcset="https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg 551w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg?resize=236,250 236w, https://hackaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/shield.jpg?resize=377,400 377w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 377px) 100vw, 377px" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1143114" class="wp-caption-text">A multilayer magnetic shield box. (Photo by [Zureks] <a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en" target="_blank">CC-BY-SA-3.0</a>)</figcaption></figure>Classic applications included shielding CRTs, tape heads, transformers, photomultipliers, and sensitive analog instruments. Put a transformer too close to the wrong part of an old television or audio amplifier and 60 Hz magnetic fields could cause very visible &#8212; or audible &#8212; trouble. The disappearance of CRTs and magnetic tape might make mu metal sound like another material destined for the antique electronics cabinet.</p>
<p>However, mu metal is still around. Modern applications include magnetometers, precision current sensors, electron microscopes, scientific instruments, and experiments that require extremely low magnetic fields. Commercial multi-layer mu-metal chambers are still sold for creating near-zero-field environments; with suitable construction and degaussing, some claim attenuation of static and low-frequency fields by factors approaching a million.</p>
<p>Quantum and cryogenic instrumentation have also created some 21st-century magnetic shielding problems. Ordinary mu metal loses performance at very low temperatures, so related nickel-iron alloys are made specifically for operation at liquid-nitrogen and liquid-helium temperatures.</p>
<h2>Don&#8217;t Bend It</h2>
<p>There are a couple of catches. First, mu metal gets much of its impressive permeability from its metallurgical structure. Machining, stamping, welding, or even bending it can introduce stresses and seriously degrade its magnetic properties. High-performance shields are therefore commonly formed first and then hydrogen annealed to restore their permeability.</p>
<p>So buying a sheet of wonderfully permeable material and folding it into a box isn&#8217;t necessarily the recipe for a wonderfully permeable box.</p>
<p>The second surprise is saturation. Mu metal is superb with weak fields but isn&#8217;t necessarily what you want closest to a powerful magnet. Its saturation induction is only around 0.75 tesla. In strong fields, manufacturers recommend combining it with a lower-permeability material having higher saturation capability, letting that outer layer tame the field before the mu metal handles what&#8217;s left.</p>
<h2>History</h2>
<p>British scientists Willoughby S. Smith and Henry J. Garnett patented mu metal in 1923 for inductive loading of submarine telegraph cables for a British company that built the Atlantic undersea telegraph cables. The seawater surrounding these cables added capacitance, requiring <a href="https://hackaday.com/2020/06/19/loading-coils-the-heaviside-condition-and-pupin-coils/">inductance to compensate</a>. This was first done by wrapping the conductors with a helical wrapping of metal tape or wire of high magnetic permeability, which confined the magnetic field.</p>
<p>Mu-metal was invented to directly compete with permalloy, the first high-permeability alloy used for cable compensation, but it belonged to competitor Western Electric. Mu-metal was developed by adding copper to permalloy to improve ductility. Each 1.6 km of cable needed about 80 km fine mu-metal wire so there was a great demand for the alloy.</p>
<h2>Other Tricks</h2>
<p>Mu metal isn&#8217;t the only way to fight magnetic interference, as you can see in [FesZ&#8217;s] video below. Ordinary steel and other high-saturation magnetic alloys can redirect stronger fields. At higher frequencies, conductive copper or aluminum shields become effective through induced eddy currents. Ferrite is good at high frequencies, too, but is not very ductile nor is it very conductive. When you really need a quiet magnetic environment, active compensation coils can measure the ambient field and generate an opposing one.</p>
<p>But if the problem is a weak DC or low-frequency magnetic field, the basic trick hasn&#8217;t changed much. You just give the magnetic flux an easier path. Sometimes the old material in that 50-year-old television can be at home in a quantum computer, too.</p>
<p><iframe loading="lazy" title="EMC tutorials - Magnetic field shielding" width="800" height="450" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2U1o66bs_Qg?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
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