Although it may look overwhelming, this is an example of a lawn that can easily be weeded by hand. (Photo by Fernando Montalvo for Gardenipedia)

In this modern, fast-paced world, you will almost never see anyone weeding a lawn by hand as one of the primary means of lawn weed removal (unless you’re my neighbor).  Hand-weeding, however, can be your most effective weapon in getting rid of weeds.  I know it is kind of obvious… I mean, the weed is there, you pull it, and… presto!, it’s gone, but you would be surprised how many people resist simply going out there and pulling out weeds from the lawn.  The excuses I get from gardeners are interminable.

Sure, on a huge lawn this idea can be crazy (and I don’t recommend it unless the weeds are in a small area).  Even on your average, middle-income family home going out and pulling every weed from the lawn can seem a daunting task.  For very small yards and small patio areas with lawns, however, you shouldn’t be using any other method of getting rid of the weeds.  Case in point.  A few months ago, a relative asked me how they could get rid of weeds from their zoysia lawn which measured maybe eighty square feet.  I knew the real question he was asking was: what kind of chemical should be used to clean-up the weeds?  While I didn’t weed the lawn right then and there, a few days later I returned and did a thorough hand-weeding of the heavy-in-weeds lawn in about forty-five minutes, less time than it takes most people to drive to their local Home Depot for a bag of anti-weed chemical warfare product.

Hand-weeding’s greatest adversary isn’t really weeds at all, but good old laziness.  People just want the easy way out and don’t want to sit down on their lawn for a an hour or so to pull weeds, but, as I described above, a lot of times you can do hand weeding in less time than it takes to go get something else.  Since driving a car doesn’t really feel like work, going down to your local garden center feels like the right choice.  Even if you end up driving to Home Depot for thirty minutes or more round-trip, buying a bag of herbicide (and other stuff you don’t need) that sits in your garage for two months, and then spend twenty minutes figuring out how to use it, plus another thirty applying it (all while your weeds are growing and spreading their seeds all over the place).

Weeding by hand is especially great for weeds which do not propagate by underground runners.  Once these weeds are gone, and assuming you did a good-job of pulling it out by hand or with a tool designed for weeding, the weed will simply never come back (although if it already flowered and seeded, you may be dealing with descendants).  For a lot of spreading grasses and other weeds with underground runners (such as dollarweed), you should expect some of the weeds to return as the runners tend to be left behind even when you use the proper tools for the job.  You could hunt the underground runners down, but you may end up tearing down your lawn in the process.

How to do it right: Weeding a lawn isn’t just about going out there and pulling (although if you do that with enough frequency you’ll probably come out winning in the end).  You need some kind of hand weeding tool that you feel comfortable with.  Like the battle between PC and Mac users, every gardener has a favorite tool with which to weed with, but I personally feel a hand-weeder such as the one in the picture below, is the best choice as its thin-profile keeps it from damaging your lawn too much and its length can reach down to deep tap-roots.  You can get these anywhere, such as Wal-Mart, Lowes’, and Home Depot.  You can also buy them from online retailers such as Amazon.com (To buy the exact one in the picture below from Amazon, click HERE.  Please note, Gardenipedia is an Amazon affiliate).  The specific purpose of the hand-tool is to give you a bit of leverage for those weeds that simply don’t budge when you pull them, as well as to help with those that have deep root systems.

(Photo by Amazon.com)

If your lawn has a sporadic weed here and there, just go out and get them.  There really isn’t any need for any technique if you’re pulling out three weeds.  However, if you got a serious weed situation, it would probably be best to break the job down into parts, that way you’ll feel some progress and not get overwhelmed by the task.  Here is the breakdown:

1)      Identify your weeds:     First, using the Internet, Books, the weeds themselves, or that neighbor who works for your state agriculture department (Gardenipedia will have a weed guide in the future), identify what kind of weeds you have.  Are these grasses or broadleaf weeds?  Do they spread by runners?  Do they have deep roots?  Are there more weeds than lawn?

2)      Understand that some weeds already won:  For areas in which a weed may have completely overwhelmed your lawn, such as in parts where an herbicide-resistant Bermuda grass has completely overtaken a St. Augustine lawn, your best bet is to remove the lawn and weeds altogether (making sure to completely remove the weeds and their roots) and start with a brand-spanking-new lawn.  Otherwise you’re in for a long battle you may not win EVER.

3)      Get rid of the easy weeds first: If you want to feel satisfaction as soon as possible and avoid getting a sense that you’re not going anywhere with this, make sure you take out all the easy weeds first.  If you notice a particular weed comes out easy, get rid of all of the same ones fast.  Depending on your weed situation, more than half-your weeds may be gone after this and you may have a nice big pile to show for your efforts (Go ahead… get your wife or husband and show them what you’ve done.  I’ll wait.).

4)      Deal with the remaining weeds with detail: If you’re dealing with weeds that have a deep tap-root, stick your hand weeder all the way down as deep as you can and begin to pivot the handle, while you gently pull on the weed.  If you feel like the plant is about to break in half, use more pivoting from the weeder and less pull from your hand.  Do note that some deep-rooted weeds will die even if the tap root remains behind.  For the more annoying runner-infested weeds, such as torpedo-grass, you may need a little more finesse from your hand weeder, but try to not only pull the weed, but find the node (or “intersection”) from which the above ground “stem” came from.  This may delay the reemergence of the weed.  Weeds that grow from runners are very hard to remove by hand.

5)      Anything left behind? If anything was left behind and you know it will come back, you could apply a herbicide in the general area where that weed is.  Usually, though, if you continue to weed that area regularly, you will win over the plant… they need their leaves for energy production and if you keep pulling them out before they are fully developed, the plant will die.

Don’t wait so long between hand-weeding that you end up having to start over.  A once a week quick check of the weeds is great, although a once a month, more thorough job, is fine as well.  If more time passes than that, you may be in trouble again.  It is tedious work, but it will pay off in the longtime.

Previous posts in the series:

• How to remove weeds from your lawn.  Part 1.
• Fertilizing to remove weeds from your lawn (How to remove weeds from your lawn Part 2)
  

Gerbera daisies (photo by Fernando Montalvo for Gardenipedia.com)

If you’re ever in the need for some really vibrant color in your landscape; something approaching neon Crayola® crayon colors, then the gerbera daisy is your flower.  Seriously… don’t even read the rest of this post, just go get some right now, try growing it, and get back to me in a few months.  I’ll wait.  This fifth most popular flower in the world will definitely do the trick.

For a lot of people who are used to hearing the words rose, tulip, or sunflower, a gerbera daisy may seem like a recently discovered flower, but gerberas were discovered a very long time ago and have been around in gardens for a while now.  They have been widely gaining in popularity over the past decade.  Gerberas were discovered by Scotsman Robert Jameson in 1884 near Barberton, South Africa and the name gerbera is homage to the German naturalist Traugott Gerber, whom I am sure did something important in his life that merited the homage.  There are more than forty species of Gerberas, although the most common one in gardens by far is Gerbera jamesonii, which is known as a Barberton daisy, Transvaal daisy, or just good-old gerbera daisy (which is the name that I suggest you use when talking to your garden shop-guy or florist-lady, at least here in the US).  These plants have a native habitat that encompasses temperate and mountainous grasslands in Africa and Asia.  The plants are usually very small and the leaves look like some kind of leafy-green edible thing, not particularly pretty by themselves, but OK in numbers.  The flowers, however, are very showy and come in an incredible variety of very vivid colors.

How do I get one?

Gerbera daisies are readily available in most garden centers, as long as it doesn’t have a name like “Tulips Only Garden Center”.  You can go to one of those fancy garden centers where people know what they are talking about or you can go to a national retailer, like Home Depot.  In warm places like Florida, they are available year-round, while in colder climates they can be found in the indoor plant section of your garden center or supermarket during the winter and are easily available in the outdoor section the rest of the year.

Unlike when picking a podocarpus, picking Gerbera plants requires a lot of special attention.  If a plant looks sick or is yellowing all over, leave it (unless you like wasting money).  If you’re looking forward to the flowers (and frankly, who isn’t?), make sure that you see new flower buds emerging from the plant.  Any flowers that are already “out” will most likely wilt and die soon and there will be a long wait before new ones emerge.  Your best bet is to buy ones with emerging flowers, so that they open after a few days of being in your home.  Look at the leaves; are there any squiggly patterns on them? (See below)  Check under the leaves for slugs (or Osama Bin Laden) which will leave your plant looking like Swiss cheese before moving on to other garden delicacies in your home.  Make sure the plant looks healthy and is not stressed in any way.  The soil under them should not be bone-dry; something my local garden center doesn’t seem to understand.  Finally, check the flowers.  A lot of these “modern” flowers found in garden centers have gone through a lot of genetic manipulation to become as pretty as they are and sometimes you get some varieties that yield crazy amounts of deformed flowers or double-flowers (in which two flowers are joined together by the stem).  Try staying away from varieties that exhibit this, unless of course you actually like the look.  If the ideal plant conditions are met and you don’t end up running home, screaming like a little girl due to the price (yes, they are a little more expensive than similar sized plants), put a few of these in your garden cart and head home (pay for them first).  For indoors, one or three plants is fine, but if you’re going to be making a border, make sure you get a lot of them as they are much prettier in numbers.  Don’t be like my neighbor and expect three gerberas to steal the show.

OK, I’m home… how do I plant them and what do I have to do to keep them alive?

Hopefully, either you have tools or bought some at the garden center while you were getting the gerberas, because we are going planting.  First, find a full-sun spot (preferably in your yard and not your neighbors’).  What’s full sun, you ask?  Well, it’s that place in your yard where you’re likely to get skin cancer the quickest in summer and makes you happy for its warmth in the winter.  Where nothing (or very few things) blocks the light coming from the sun or those full-spectrum light bulbs you use to grow your marijuana in the basement (you know who you are!).  Once you’ve located the spot, make sure you have enough space.  In general, gerberas should be planted about a foot from each other and other plants around them.  This gives them ample room to spread without overcrowding, which can lead to deadly diseases (for the plant, not for you).  A quick note… if you live in a warm climate area, plant the gerberas where only morning sun hits them or in a place with slightly filtered sunlight.  Otherwise, the plants will appear to wilt on a daily basis.

Dig a hole about two times the width of the pot and just a bit deeper.  Backfill the hole a bit so that the root ball’s top (where the plant comes out of the soil) is even with the ground level in your garden and set the plant in the hole.  Depending on your soil’s fertility levels, either use the same soil that was in the hole to refill it (lucky you!), or use a bag of good quality garden soil (buy professional for less weeds).  Tamp it a bit so the soil doesn’t settle or run off when you water.  Make sure the plant doesn’t end up in a soil pyramid as this will only make the water wash off the soil near the plant’s roots when you water.  Add mulch if you want to (and believe me, you want to), but make sure you don’t get the mulch too close near the plant that it may rot it or make it too easy for slugs (or Carmen Sandiego) to hide near the plant.

Once it is in the ground, water the plant regularly at first, making sure to keep the soil moist, but not water logged, and as the plant gets established, the need to water it will be greatly reduced.  I don’t water some of mine at all anymore and I once grew them in a very dry, Central America garden with very little water problems.  As far as fertilizing, use a liquid fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro® every month or so, except in late-fall or winter.  The cold temperatures may hurt fresh new growth that comes out as a result of your fertilizing.  Once established, this perennial will give you a long life, although outdoors in colder climates it may behave like an annual and die from the colder temperatures (below 32°F).  Cut off old flowers to keep the plants pretty and, for potted plants, plant in a larger pot every year.  They do flower a bit better with some crowding on the pot, though.

What the heck is that on my gerbera?

The flower or the slimy thing next to it?  Gerberas are susceptible to plant diseases or pests, just like you’re susceptible to the swine flu and getting taxed every year.  Expect slugs and leaf miners to be common problems.  You should know what slugs look like and they are easily removable by hand-picking them (GROSS!) or adding an organic (or earth-harming) “slugacide” near the gerberas.  I recommend earth friendly Escar-Go by Gardens Alive to do the trick.  I’ve actually hand-fed it to slugs with good results.  Leaf miners are a little bit tougher to tame and they leave a squiggly line on your gerbera leaves as they tunnel their way around.  There are many products out there that will kill these larvae before they become full-fledged adult insects.

Early stages of leaf miner damage on a gerbera. (Photo by Fernando Montalvo for Gardenipedia.com)

Other pests and diseases that may affect this plant are aphids (kill them with soapy water), thrips, whiteflies (which are a bit hard to kill), gray mold (see comments below), powdery mildew, blights, and rots.  I won’t go into the specifics of fighting each one of these conditions as those are future posts.  Deer may seek other plants in your yard when encountering gerberas as the plant is somewhat deer resistant, but starved-zombie deer may still opt to eat them.

On another note, some people complain about the flowers dying quickly after they buy the plant.  Don’t fret!  Maybe the flower had been open for quite some time and was due to wilt or simply moving the plant from the loving and overprotected care of a commercial nursery to your home may have affected the plant.  The new flowers that emerge will most likely be fine.

Hope you enjoy your new gerberas.  I welcome comments and suggestions, as well as your gerbera growing experiences, in the comments below.

As they say in landscaping circles, weeds don't cause an unhealthy lawn... an unhealthy lawn causes weeds. (Photo by SharkyinColo via Flickr.)

Did you know that fertilizing a weed can actually help you get rid of it in your landscape?  While this is not the case for all weeds, it is certainly the case for weeds that thrive in infertile soils (knotweed is an example).  As evidenced by the dozens of different fertilizer formulas at Home Depot or Lowe’s, different plants have different fertility requirements that must be met for that plant to thrive.  As anyone who has “burned” an impatiens or coleus when applying high nitrogen lawn fertilizer knows, if a plant is fertilized outside its tolerant range, it can die.  Just like other plants, weeds have their own fertility requirements and some of them thrive in infertile or improperly fertilized soils.  Getting rid of these weeds could be done by simply fertilizing the soil properly.

In fact, some weeds really only show up once your soil is infertile.  Otherwise, while their seeds may be in your lawn (and there are thousands of weed seeds in your lawn at any given time), they won’t fully develop into mature weeds because they are not in their preferred environment and cannot compete with your lawn for water and nutrients.  Proper lawn cultivation is one of the best things you can do to keep your lawn weed free.  If your lawn is happy, it will have less barren spots for weeds to thrive in and the lawn will crowd out most upcoming weeds.

Why this works: There are various mechanisms behind why changing the fertility of the soil affects some plants and leaves others undisturbed.  I’m going to take the simple route in this explanation and only talk about the main one.  Plants need a certain combination of nutrients and, more importantly, soil acidity to be able to not only absorb, but use nutrients in the chemical reactions that occur within the plant’s cells.  When there are missing elements, lack of water, or the soil acidity is thrown off, the plant is unable to complete some of these reactions and begins to have problems (much in the same way a human suffers from deficiencies in food, water, or important vitamins.  A slight deviation from the plant’s preferred environment (such as when acid-loving azaleas are planted in slightly alkaline soil) will yield a plant that continues to live, but doesn’t thrive.  A greater deviation may have catastrophic results for the plant and it may be unable to absorb nutrients or complete most, if not all, its chemical reactions.  Much the way a human would starve without food, the plant withers and dies.

Of course, different lawns have different fertility requirements and there are a lot of different lawn varieties out there so I will not be going into how to fertilize your lawn correctly on this post.  I will leave that to future lawn-type specific posts, but a trip to your local garden center or a search on the Internet should yield some information in the meantime.  It is important however that you do know the fertilizer requirements of your lawn because just as you can get rid of some weeds simply by the way you fertilize, you can get rid of some lawns by using the wrong fertilizer or applying the product too often.  Some lawns, such as some of the Paspalum varieties used in golf courses and popular with some homeowners in coastal areas, require little fertilizer use.  A word of caution: if you don’t know what type of lawn you have, don’t apply fertilizer or herbicide to it until you find out.  Like I said before, you can seriously harm your grass.

This is a good time to mention that once the soil under your lawn is properly fertilized, you may see some weeds wilt and die (what you see when you someone says they “burned” a plant with fertilizer) and others will just look sickly, die over a long time, and never come back.  However, not all weeds will be affected by this and new weeds may emerge when the newly fertilized soil meets their fertility requirements.  Don’t worry… as I have said before, once your lawn is healthy from being properly fertilized it will have a better chance of competing with weeds.  Here in the southeast, it is my experience that the weeds that show up in infertile soil are much worse than those that show up on properly fertilized soil.

A note to organic gardeners:  As an organic gardener you know that you need to tolerate some weeds in your lawn since most herbicides don’t meet the organic motto (although there are a few ones out there that have varying levels of success).  Of course, you can hand weed the lawn (which I will be talking about next), but that is an extremely time consuming task.  However, using organic fertilizers, you can apply the same principles that you see in this post to an organic lawn.  Since organic fertilizers often have less “kick” to them than the ground water-polluting regular varieties, you may not see an immediate effect in getting rid of weeds.  As your soil’s fertility improves over time, you will definitely see fewer weeds.  A true organic gardener, though, tolerates quite a few weeds in his or her lawn.

Previous post in the series:

• How to get rid of weeds in your lawn. Part 1

OK... so this lawn needs more than just weeding. Here, we can see broadleaf and grassy weeds invading a lawn. (Photo by Itzel Guillen for Gardenipedia.com)

For many homeowners, one of the greatest afflictions that their lawn can face is weeds.  That is why I will dedicate the next few days (weekends excluded) to dealing with this subject that pretty much every gardener must face at some point in their gardening “careers”.  Among the many things I will post about, I will discuss the different types of weeds and why they are in your lawn.  Of course, I’ll dedicate the bulk of the articles to getting rid of lawn weeds.  While some methods are downright obvious, some may surprise you for their easiness and effectiveness.  For those of you who are organic gardeners, don’t worry!  I won’t be leaving you out.

A broadcast/rotary spreader being used for a fertilizer application. Photo by Itzel Guillen for Gardenipedia.com

Selecting a landscape spreader is not all that difficult once you know a few basics regarding the differences between the types of spreaders available.  First of all, you need to know what a spreader is.  A spreader is any device that dispenses a product (be it fertilizer, herbicide, mulch, etc.) in the garden, usually at a predetermined rate.  There are a few different types of spreaders out there, but the most important ones are:

1) Broadcast or Rotary Push-type Spreader

A broadcast spreader is one of the most common types of spreaders available.  It is the spreader in the picture above.  A broadcast spreader is similar to the drop spreader discussed below, but differs in the way the material is spread throughout the landscape.  In a broadcast spreader, a rotating disc below the material bucket disperses the product over a large area as you walk with the spreader.  This helps you cover more area quicker than you would with a drop spreader.  It is a great spreader when you need to reduce application time or when applying a product that is not dangerous to nearby plants and precision is not required.  The disadvantage is that it if you are applying herbicide or a potent fertilizer, you may harm nearby plants you were not intending to cover with the product simply because of the wide area of application.  This has always been my preferred spreader of choice.

2) Drop Push-type Spreaders

Similar to the broadcast spreader, the drop spreader’s main difference is that it drops the material straight down under the spreader.  While this means more work for the person applying the material, this type of spreader does give you a lot more control over where the material is being applied.  This is the preferred type of spreader for weed killers that may harm plants near lawns, for example, as it ensures the herbicide does not get thrown all over the place.  Use this type of spreader in small yards and tight spaces.

3) Hand Carried, Portable Spreaders

When applying fertilizers or herbicides to landscape beds, you can’t exactly run a push-type spreader over the plants.  The method that most gardeners use to get around this is to use their   hands for these applications (hopefully, a gloved hand).  However, the human hand is not very accurate at dispersing material at a predetermined rate or evenly, so this is where hand spreaders come in.  Hand spreaders are small, hand carried versions of rotary spreaders that you carry around in one hand and operate a hand crank on it with your other hand.  They help the gardener apply material more evenly and at the proper rate.  Some gardeners feel they work well enough with their hands, though, and would rather not spend money on one of these spreaders.

4) Hitch-mounted spreaders

For extra-large properties with great expanses of lawn, it may be impractical to push a broadcast or drop spreader around all day, so hitch mounted spreaders, which can be mounted on a truck or landscape tractor/ATV are available.  These come in broadcast and drop models and carry a lot more material than their push-type variants.  The advantage of these is simply that they allow you to do in minutes what it would take you much longer to do with a regular spreader.  Do note that some of the push-type spreaders previously discussed come in powered models which require little effort from the operator.

Once you’ve selected the type of spreader you need for the job, you need to decide how sturdy you need the unit to be.  Of course, everyone wants the sturdiest spreaders as nobody wants to have to repair theirs or buy a new one too soon, but the difference in cost between regular low-end spreaders and the upper-end commercial ones with sturdy parts is huge.  A low-end spreader used for three or four applications a year on level, non-rough terrain can cost as little as twenty dollars, but a high-end commercial one, used for very frequent applications and rough, uneven terrain, can be in the hundreds of dollars.  There is no need to waste hundreds of dollars on a spreader if you don’t need the functions offered by these sturdier spreaders and you are careful with your equipment.  At my own home, I’ve been using a lower end residential spreader which has lasted me over six years now with no problems.

When deciding how much to spend on a spreader, the important factors are frequency and application terrain.  If you have a small yard, with even terrain, and you intend to do less than six applications or so a year, you may be fine with a lower cost spreader with plastic wheels.  You won’t spend too much on your spreader and it will do the job.  However, if your yard is full of rocks, is uneven or large, and you plan to apply more than six times per year, I would try to get a sturdier spreader with inflatable, rubber tires.  It will last you a lot longer and will be much easier to carry over uneven terrain.  Of course, if you measure the area of your yard in acres, you may want to get a powered or hitch-type spreader if you can afford one.

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Related Posts:

• What those numbers on the outside of fertilizer packaging mean.
  

Photo by Fernando Montalvo for Gardenipedia.com.

Since many of the future posts here in Gardenipedia will refer to fertilizer selection and use, I thought I would take some time to explain one of the most basic aspects when looking at different fertilizers.  Whether the fertilizer will be used for lawns, shrubs, annuals, trees, etc., they all have three little numbers of importance labeled somewhere in the bag or box that every gardener should know about.  The picture above shows these numbers depicted on a bag of fertilizer as they usually are, three numbers separated by dashes (some fertilizer packaging features the numbers in different formats).  These numbers, part of the fertilizer’s guaranteed analysis of included plant/soil nutrients, are known as the NPK ratio.  The NPK ratio shows the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (also referred to as Potash) that the fertilizer contains.  The numbers are basically what percentage of the fertilizer mix each of the nutrients comprises.  In other words, in a bag of 6-8-6 fertilizer, 6% of the mix in the bag would be the nitrogen, 8% would be the phosphorous, and 6% potash.  But, why don´t these numbers add up to 100%?  That is because the remaining 80% of the bag (in this example) is comprised of other plant nutrients, as well as components designed to deliver the fertilizer adequately.

Knowing the NPK ratio is important as you select fertilizer because different quantities and ratios of each of the three major plant nutrients will yield different results in your garden.  In some cases, the use of the wrong NPK numbers will result in plant injury or death.  Also, overuse of some of the elements leads to groundwater pollution, a growing problem (it is also an unnecessary waste of money).

Knowing which fertilizer to use is something we will talk about in future posts as I discuss each individual situation.  As I´ll mention now and on further posts, each garden’s soil is a unique environment and in order for you to correctly fertilize a garden or lawn, you need to perform a soil test.  However, I do know that this is something the majority of gardeners will never do, even if its offered free or at a low cost, so I’ll be giving some pointers in the future on how to “wing it”.

Going back to N, P, and K, they each have different uses by plants and while the interactions between these elements and other microelements are a little bit more complicated than the following explanation, it can generally be used as a guideline that the elements are used as follows:

1)      N:          Nitrogen is important for the plants “greenery”.  In other words, when you want to encourage a greener grass or more foliage, you generally want to be looking at using nitrogen.

2)      P:           Phosphorous helps plants have stronger root systems and produce more blooms.  Heavy flowering plants such as annuals benefit from fertilizers with phosphates.

3)      K:           Potassium is helps with overall plant health and works in similar ways than salts do in humans.

(NOTE: Not all fertilizers contain N, P, or K and may completely lack the N-P-K designation when all three of these elements are absent.  An example of this would be a micronutrient only fertilizer.)

Photo by Gullevek via Flickr. Creative Commons license.

Gardenipedia is being improved to provide a better and more up-to-date gardening resource.  The new version of the website should be in place very soon.  While Gardenipedia is undergoing minor aesthetic changes, I will make considerable changes to improve the content, posting frequency, and ease of use of the website.  A lot of you were disappointed with the website’s original version, but rest assured steps are being taken to improve the site all around.  Among our improvements, expect a contact form, improved terms of service, more useful and current information, and even an Amazon.com shop to help you with your gardening needs.

To help improve the site, all of the old posts have been removed and while some may come back, it is Gardenipedia’s goal to repost a lot better ones.

Check back soon for the new Gardenipedia.

FM