<![CDATA[Fodor's Travel Talk Forums]]> https://www.fodors.com/community/ en Fri, 12 Jun 2026 02:46:57 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.fodors.com/community/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Fodor's Travel Talk Forums]]> https://www.fodors.com/community/ Matera https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/matera-1735835/ Fri, 12 Jun 2026 02:45:05 GMT A few people recommended a stop in Matera and I quickly shifted my itinerary. I am planning at least 2 nights. I would love accommodation with a... A few people recommended a stop in Matera and I quickly shifted my itinerary. I am planning at least 2 nights. I would love accommodation with a terrace (not necessarily in the room). I will be travelling from Polignano a Mare. On Omio, it is $100 one way. Head back to Bari and grab the next bus. It is not so bad but I wonder if there is an easier way that I am missing.

My mobility is ok but I am getting over a knee injury. I don�t want to miss Matera. I am thinking about doing a tuk tuk tour just to get an overall feel.

I would love to hear others� experiences.
]]> Europe kelsey22 https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/matera-1735835/ OAT trip to Japan and Osaka O https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/oat-trip-to-japan-and-osaka-o-1735833/ Fri, 12 Jun 2026 02:07:27 GMT We are considering the OAT's "Japan's Cultural Treasures" trip in the beginning of August. They do not visit Osaka, so we are considering extending our time to visit there. Any thoughts about the OAT trip and how many days would you suggest in Osaka? ]]> Asia virginiafish https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/oat-trip-to-japan-and-osaka-o-1735833/ Trip Report Spain (Andalucia, Extremadura, Madrid) and Malta trip report https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/spain-andalucia-extremadura-madrid-and-malta-trip-report-1735832/ Fri, 12 Jun 2026 00:51:19 GMT My husband and I just returned from 2.5 weeks in Spain and a week in Malta. I enjoyed your trip reports so much during my planning. I am going to...


My husband and I just returned from 2.5 weeks in Spain and a week in Malta. I enjoyed your trip reports so much during my planning. I am going to post mine in sections starting with Tips/Logistics and our first city, Seville.

Our route: Sevilla (4 nights) → C�rdoba (2) → Granada (2) → Ronda (3) → C�ceres (3) → Madrid (4) → Gozo (3) → Valletta (3)

Before You Go: Tips & Logistics

Book early � then keep checking. I start planning months in advance, which is usually great, but the major Andaluc�a ticket sites (Alhambra, Seville Alc�zar, cathedrals) release availability at different times and often well after I'd already locked in hotels. You pretty much have to stalk each site separately and pounce the moment slots open � it felt exactly like trying to enroll my kid in Freshman Bio at a large state university. More importantly: keep checking as your trip approaches. We had to do a last-minute shuffle because Toledo Cathedral was closed for Corpus Christi on the exact day we'd planned to be there � and each city celebrates it on a different day, so you can't always anticipate it. What had been an overnight in Toledo became a day-trip from Madrid. Not a disaster, but a scramble. Check, check, and check again.

Go to the big sights first thing � and then go even earlier. For the big Andaluc�a sights, forget the "late afternoon crowds thin out" strategy. They don't. Book first timed entry, arrive 30 minutes before that, and make a beeline for the rooms you most want to see. We had the Alc�zar's Hall of Ambassadors and Courtyard of the Maidens almost entirely to ourselves. An hour later it was a nightmare. Early is everything.

Bring your passport to ticketed sights. We were asked for ours 2�3 times.

Book around the cruise ship schedule. This is my single best travel tip, full stop. Check your destination's port schedule and plan your dates accordingly. It mattered less in Andaluc�a (crowds come from everywhere, not just ships), but in Malta it was transformative. We chose three non-cruise-ship days for Valletta and the difference was stunning � even St. John's Co-Cathedral felt relaxed and unhurried.

Packing. 25 days, one carry-on roller and one under-seat backpack each, sink laundry every night with dissolving soap sheets. For Spain: skirts, sundresses, walking sandals. For Malta: shorts and cotton tanks. Fair warning: Air France has strict weight limits and we were forced to gate-check our rollers � always keep medications and a change of clothes in your personal bag.

Weather. Spain was mid-90s�F but dry � felt wonderful. Malta topped out in the high 70s on paper but was brutally humid with relentless sun, and we had to rethink some midday plans accordingly.

Breakfast. Spanish breakfast is good, though not quite at the heights of Turkish breakfast. A typical hotel buffet includes jam�n, cheeses, breads, pastries, fruit, yogurt, and usually eggs. We try to book hotels with breakfast included; when it's not, we'd pick up fruit and pastries the night before and make do with hotel room coffee. The most basic Spanish breakfast � a roll with crushed tomatoes and jam�n � is simple and perfectly satisfying. We had it at a rest stop on our Do�ana day and loved it. Cappuccino and espresso were excellent everywhere.

Trains. Seville's train station is the trickiest one we encountered � learn to read your ticket before you get there. Key vocabulary: coche = car, plaza = seat, v�a = platform (announced late). Your train may be listed under its final destination, not yours � our Granada train was headed to Madrid Atocha and wasn't listed as "Granada" anywhere on the board. Arrive at least 30 minutes early; there may be a long security line but it moves efficiently. After Seville, every subsequent train journey was straightforward.

Driving in Spain. Generally fine � drivers are fast and aggressive but disciplined: they stay right except to pass and trucks are governed. Roads are adequate, though often without a shoulder and sometimes without a center stripe on rural roads (I did a lot of horn-beeping on curves). If someone wants to pass you, just let them. Avoid driving in city centers if at all possible; the streets are incredibly narrow and there always seems to be someone parked halfway into traffic. If you must drive in a city, get the smallest car available.

Driving in Malta. I'd only recommend this for experienced left-side drivers � Americans will find it genuinely stressful. You drive on the British side, roundabouts are everywhere (look right before entering or you will get hit), road markings are unclear, and one-lane roads with two-way traffic are common, meaning you'll occasionally have to reverse until you can pull over to let someone pass. People stop in the middle of the road constantly. I drove slowly, let the impatient locals pass, and tried not to worry about it. My husband, who is an excellent navigator, may have been more stressed than I was. On the bright side: Siri's attempts at Maltese road names provided genuine comic relief.

Resources we loved. Rick Steves � his audio walking tours are gold (I just wish he covered Malta). The Rough Guide to Spain and the Bradt Guide to Malta. And of course, Fodor's trip reports � so thank you all. For pre-trip reading: The Sword and the Scimitar (David Ball) and The Kappillan of Malta (Nicholas Montsarrat) for Malta; The Return by Victoria Hislop, In the Shadow of the Pomegranate Tree, (Tariq Ali) For Whom the Bell Tolls (Hemmingway), and � yes � Don Quixote (long, but funnier and quicker than you'd expect) for Spain.

Sevilla � 4 nights

Hotel: Hotel Querencia de Sevilla (Marriott). We're not usually chain people, but my husband had work points, the location in Plaza de San Francisco is ideal, the staff was exceptional, and the breakfast and pool made for a very welcome soft landing.

Itinerary:
  • Day 1 (arrive ~4pm): Check in, walk to Plaza de Espa�a
  • Day 2: Day-trip with guide to Do�ana wetlands (lynx + birding)
  • Day 3: Barrio Santa Cruz walk; cathedral & Giralda (3:45 entry); evening paseo on Plaza Nueva
  • Day 4: Alc�zar (arrive by 9am for 9:30 entry); Triana walk; flamenco at Casa del Flamenco
Impressions: Sevilla was our favorite city of the entire trip � and honestly, we didn't see that coming. It's old but immaculate, completely walkable, and alive with history and culture. We loved simply wandering the cobbled streets past bougainvillea-draped buildings and flower-pot-filled balconies. (We also had a memorable � if humbling � experience trying to order sandwiches at Casa de Morena. Our Spanish is passable, but restaurant vocabulary is its own beast, and we ended up with a few unexpected and not entirely desirable lunches along the way.)

The Alc�zar was our favorite Seville sight and the second-best of the whole trip. We arrived at 9am for our 9:30 first-entry slot; by 9:20, the line behind us stretched out of sight. Once inside, we skipped the first room and had the Hall of Ambassadors and Courtyard of the Maidens almost to ourselves � the Islamic tilework and architecture rivaled anything we've seen, including Topkapi in Istanbul. After seeing what mattered most to us, we looped back through the rest at a leisurely pace (crowds and all).

Plaza de Espa�a was an aesthetic feast � gorgeous in every direction, with impromptu flamenco performances at all hours. The cathedral we did at 3:45pm, which was less ideal than a morning visit would have been � tour groups were still present � but the "wait two minutes" strategy works: they swarm through and move on. The cathedral was certainly impressive, but not among Europe's most beautiful cathedrals in my opinion. Casa del Flamenco was wonderfully intimate � almost uncomfortably so, (I was close enough to get sweat-sprayed by the lead dancer). We both loved it and agreed we don't need to go again.

Note for birders and nature lovers: we saw an Iberian Lynx on our Do�ana day! I'm happy to recommend our guide if anyone is interested.

next up will be Cordoba

]]> Europe ljturco https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/spain-andalucia-extremadura-madrid-and-malta-trip-report-1735832/ <![CDATA[Ragusa & Marina di Ragusa & Addio all'Estate??]]> https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/ragusa-and-marina-di-ragusa-and-addio-allestate-1735831/ Fri, 12 Jun 2026 00:34:01 GMT Two old Foodies planned to sun, schmooze and explore the small nearby towns, Second visit to Sicily. Two Seniors plan to spend a couple of weeks in... Two old Foodies planned to sun, schmooze and explore the small nearby towns,
Second visit to Sicily. Two Seniors plan to spend a couple of weeks in Marina di Ragusa Sicily mid to late September '26. Plan to take day trips using bus taxi or driver. Just learned that there is a close to the seaside season called Addio all'Estate . Our hotel & pool are open . Just concerned that restaurants and transportation will have reduced service. No longer climbing the steps of ancient Cathedrals..now travel for food and local culture.
Has anyone vacationed in this area this time of year. This would be the time to adjust itinerary if recommended.
Thanks..happy to be a new member! Also, is it possible to be dropped off by car at sites & restaurants in Ragusa Isla??
BK ]]> Europe Strategic2 https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/ragusa-and-marina-di-ragusa-and-addio-allestate-1735831/ New Routes to Cuba / Canada for Canadians / Cubans https://www.fodors.com/community/caribbean-islands/new-routes-to-cuba-canada-for-canadians-cubans-1735830/ Thu, 11 Jun 2026 23:32:29 GMT Of course as many of you know, there are now no flights scheduled to / from Cuba to Canada and visa versa. Everything has been cancelled indefinitely... Of course as many of you know, there are now no flights scheduled to / from Cuba to Canada and visa versa. Everything has been cancelled indefinitely by all Canadian airlines. But I have a new route in mind for Yudith to come to Canada again later this year, and if anything, it should be much easier and much cheaper over all to implement. Yudith would first catch a flight that I'll book for her later to fly from CMW - Camaguey city to CUN - Cancun, Mexico with Viva Aerobus - their flights transit back and forth every Wednesday of each week - a 55 minute flight. Yudith would then layover in a hotel within the Cancun airport for 1 night - I'll have that pre-booked for her as well, however her Canadian bank issued VISA credit card will begin working again for all meals and drinks for her as soon as she's in Mexico. The next morning bright and early, she'll then board an Air Transat flight in Cancun direct to Toronto. Easy peasy! And no transit visa needed to enter Mexico because Yudith has her Canadian TRV within her Cuban passport. The best part is that there would be no need for anymore 3.5 hour long taxi rides to the Cayo Coco airport first at likely $250 to $300 USD now - and that's if Yudith could find a taxi that had enough gasoline to make that taxi ride possible at all too. Our casa is located only 10 minutes away from the Camaguey city airport. Everything would apply exactly the same for me as well when flying back with her to Cuba later in reverse to be there again for our end of the year fiesta at the casa. What a treat it will be to finally be able to land at the airport in Camaguey city again! It's been several years now since I've been able to do that. Terry ]]> Caribbean Islands TerryandYudith https://www.fodors.com/community/caribbean-islands/new-routes-to-cuba-canada-for-canadians-cubans-1735830/ TR - 3 nights/4 days in Savannah https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/tr-3-nights-4-days-in-savannah-1735828/ Thu, 11 Jun 2026 23:07:03 GMT As I sit at my gate for my now delayed flight home, thought I’d make use of the time and share some of my experiences in, and thoughts on, Savannah.
  • The people are unfailingly polite and friendly. It was very easy to have conversations with people you had just met - next to you or across from at a bar, walking a dog, sitting on a nearby bench.
  • The historic district in particular is stunningly beautiful. The architecture, gas lamps and gardens were jaw dropping.
    Spanish moss galore
    Spanish moss galore
    Downstairs at the Olde Pink House
    Downstairs at the Olde Pink House
    So many styles of architecture!
    So many styles of architecture!
    The BLT (bacon, lettuce and fried green tomatoes) at The Olde Pink House
    The BLT (bacon, lettuce and fried green tomatoes) at The Olde Pink House
    Shrimp & grits at Public Kitchen
    Shrimp & grits at Public Kitchen
    Getting set up at the Johnny Mercer Theatre
    Getting set up at the Johnny Mercer Theatre
    My greeter at Bonaventure
    My greeter at Bonaventure
    My fresh strawberry Aperol bourbon cocktail at Repeal 33
    My fresh strawberry Aperol bourbon cocktail at Repeal 33
    My afternoon view
    My afternoon view
    The facade at The Grey, a former Greyhound bus terminal
    The facade at The Grey, a former Greyhound bus terminal
  • Savannah is a very walkable and pedestrian friendly city.
  • That being said, if you do have a car, it’s an easy enough place to navigate and park.
  • Bonaventure Cemetery was worth a visit - and I think it would be an even more memorable visit if I had taken a tour. Next time.
  • My favorite meals were at the Olde Pink House (where I found the food to be very good and the convivial atmosphere incredibly welcoming), The Public Kitchen & Bar (the shrimp and grits were the best I’ve ever had) and Quinn’s for a no fuss, well prepared breakfast.
  • The Grey was a great disappointment. I loved the interior and the service was accomplished and warm, but the food was unrelentingly salty. I had oysters, which were fresh and cold, followed by mac & cheese, and chick pea fritters accompanied by grilled squash and tahini. I couldn’t finish either.
  • The downstairs lounge at The Olde Pink House was gorgeous and fun. I also enjoyed drinks and conversation at both Repeal 33 and Bar Bubbly.
  • A salad at the Gryphon tea room was nothing but ok. I blame myself for ordering poorly. The tea sandwiches and petit fours looked beautiful.
  • The neighborhood I stayed in (between Forsyth Park and Chatham Square) was perfect for me. I like being in a residential area rather than a commercial one.
  • I was able to buy a very inexpensive concert ticket to see a performer I’ve been interested in seeing, Brandi Carlile, two hours before the show using Vivid Tickets. $35 for an excellent balcony seat at the Johnny Mercer Theatre.
  • On my last day in town, I had to check out of my accommodations by 10 a.m. but wasn’t scheduled to fly until 7:55 p.m. To fill the day, I purchased a pool day pass at a hotel near the river, through Resort Pass for $35. For nearly 5 hours I napped, read and wrote on a chaise near the pool with access to WiFi, towels and bathrooms. I am so relaxed!
]]> United States nylilly https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/tr-3-nights-4-days-in-savannah-1735828/ Scenic Peaks Near Innsbruck https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/scenic-peaks-near-innsbruck-1735823/ Thu, 11 Jun 2026 14:37:45 GMT We are 2 seniors staying in Innsbruck for 3 nights in mid July. We are not interested in strenuous hiking, but want to see the natural beauty of the... We are 2 seniors staying in Innsbruck for 3 nights in mid July. We are not interested in strenuous hiking, but want to see the natural beauty of the area. We will also be in Alpbach for 2 nights. We are trying to figure out which of the following sites to include during our visit: the Zirbenweg, the Sugspitze, and the Nordkette. We are also considering the Wiedersbergerhorn in Alpsbach. We would appreciate help in planning our stay and any other suggestions of must sees in the area. We are traveling via public transportation.

]]> Europe rfreedfl https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/scenic-peaks-near-innsbruck-1735823/ Camino de Santiago https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/camino-de-santiago-1735813/ Thu, 11 Jun 2026 00:06:38 GMT We are thinking of biking the Camino next year in September. Has anyone done this? We are considering Spain or the Atlantic Camino in Portugal. ... We are thinking of biking the Camino next year in September. Has anyone done this? We are considering Spain or the Atlantic Camino in Portugal.

Has anyone ever done a cycling tour with Macs Adventures?

Thank you in advance for any help. ]]> Europe jscarbary https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/camino-de-santiago-1735813/ Sicily for one week https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/sicily-for-one-week-1735811/ Wed, 10 Jun 2026 19:58:13 GMT We're flying in and out of Palermo early September for our first trip to Sicily! Thinking 4 nights in Taormina and 3 in Cefalu. Trying to finalize hotels. So far I'm considering La Calette N. 5 in Cefalu. Is it worth the big price tag? Is it inconvenient to get to town? Would we be better off at Alberi Del Paradiso (or some other hotel) which does not seem as luxurious, but is perhaps more centrally located? Especially since we will have water views in Taormina. Thinking of either Villa Carlotta, Grand Hotel San Pietro, or Palazza Vecchio in Taormina. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated! Cleanliness and location are my top priorities when searching for the right hotel. ]]> Europe azh111 https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/sicily-for-one-week-1735811/ Seniors walking tours https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/seniors-walking-tours-1735810/ Wed, 10 Jun 2026 07:52:06 GMT We are 3 fit women in our mid 70's, and are looking for an escorted walking trip of about a week to 10 days. We are leaving our men and responsibilities at home and pretending one last time that we are carefree and adventurous. I would be very grateful for suggestions of tour companies, or ideal places to visit. To make the job for advice givers a bit easier, here are our parameters: mostly flat walking, though slight inclines are fine, but no mountains or dangerous cliffs. We are happy to walk up to 4 -5 hours per day, but won't complain if the walking is interspersed with some relaxing lunches, a glass of wine or mooching around villages. Small groups are preferable where we can interact with other like minded people. We do love Italy ( doesn't everyone) but happy to consider other European destinations. We would like to travel in April/May/June when weather is mild. If anyone has done a walk which they would highly recommend, please point me in the right direction. We are coming from Australia. TIA.
]]> Europe irenen https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/seniors-walking-tours-1735810/ First time cruising at 76 https://www.fodors.com/community/cruises/first-time-cruising-at-76-a-1735809/ Wed, 10 Jun 2026 02:24:33 GMT Hello, we are a 76yo couple who has never taken a cruise, and rarely a group tour. We have traveled extensively, but mostly on our own. Many cruise... Hello, we are a 76yo couple who has never taken a cruise, and rarely a group tour. We have traveled extensively, but mostly on our own. Many cruise lines are having big sales, especially river cruises. We would possibly lean towards a river cruise, smaller number of people. We are mobile and enjoy walking, exploring, possibly biking. Any thoughts on Grand Circle Travel perhaps or others. We are looking for reasonably priced and do not need upscale accommodations, etc. Thanks for help in advance. ]]> Cruises virginiafish https://www.fodors.com/community/cruises/first-time-cruising-at-76-a-1735809/ London at Christmas https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/london-at-christmas-1735808/ Tue, 09 Jun 2026 22:48:49 GMT Older couple from south Florida (hot). My husband absolutely was enraptured by Abba Voyage. He wants to share it with our son and DIL. Looking... Older couple from south Florida (hot). My husband absolutely was enraptured by Abba Voyage. He wants to share it with our son and DIL.

Looking at first week in December. Will probably stay in a flat in S. Kensington that we have been in before. Will of course to Abba. Have found concerts at Royal Albert and St. Martins.

Considering elderly man, what would be the best way to see the Lights in London, any other recommendations you might have. Walking is possible for short distances. How should we prepare for the weather? ]]> Europe rncheryl https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/london-at-christmas-1735808/ Can you buy multiple Navigo Semaine passes with one local number? https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/can-you-buy-multiple-navigo-semaine-passes-with-one-local-number-1735799/ Tue, 09 Jun 2026 03:46:15 GMT Hello, We are a group traveling together to Paris and are planning to purchase Navigo Semaine (weekly) passes. Each of us intends to load the pass... Hello,

We are a group traveling together to Paris and are planning to purchase Navigo Semaine (weekly) passes. Each of us intends to load the pass onto our own smartphones.

We wanted to check whether it is possible to activate multiple Navigo Semaine passes using a single local phone number/account, or if each pass requires a separate phone number (i.e., a unique number for each phone).

If anyone has recent experience using the Navigo app for a group setup like this, we would really appreciate your guidance.

Thank you in advance. ]]> Europe pagetrip https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/can-you-buy-multiple-navigo-semaine-passes-with-one-local-number-1735799/ Corfu, Ionia, and Ithaca Itinerary and Logistics Advice https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/corfu-ionia-and-ithaca-itinerary-and-logistics-advice-1735798/ Tue, 09 Jun 2026 01:51:25 GMT Hello: I would like some advice on visiting Ionia and how to get around. I have been to Greece twice before. The first time I was in Greece, I... Hello:

I would like some advice on visiting Ionia and how to get around.

I have been to Greece twice before. The first time I was in Greece, I visited the Peloponnese. The second time I worked my way through Crete and the Cyclades.

On this trip, I was thinking of starting out in Corfu after arriving in Athens. I then planned to work my way down towards Lefkada and Argostoli. From there I would head to Patras and back to Athens. I am travelling solo and have about 2-3 weeks to make this trip and thus was looking for some advice on creating an itinerary.

I would prefer not to rent a car. I really do not want the hassle of one; I would prefer to take public transportation. Corfu might be an exception, though, if it were necessary to rent a car.

If I visit Corfu, is there a bus which will take me around the island? I could base myself in Corfu Town, but I would be happy to stay in other towns if it were necessary to see the sights. For example, would I be able to take a bus or find a tour that would take me to places like the castle of Gardiki, or do I need to go to Agios Gordios? As another example, is there a bus that would take me to Proto Timoni and Cape Drastis? So, I suppose I am wondering the logistics of getting around Corfu and seeing the sights. For example, is it as easy to get around Corfu as it is to take the bus to get around Paros or Santorini?

From Corfu, do you recommend staying in Igoumenitsa and/or going to Sivota? If I took a ferry from Corfu to Igoumenitsa, is there public transportation that will take me to Sivota?

If not, is there public transportation that will take me to Parga from Igoumenitsa? Or should I skip Igroumenitsa altogether and take a ferry from Corfu directly to Parga? I hear Parga is nice and worth the visit, so I do not want to miss it. Also, is it possible to get to the castles Margaritiou or Anthousas from Parga using public transport? Or would you recommend a taxi or a tour to see these sights?

From Parga, how does one get to Lefkada? Would I need to pass through Preveza to get there? Should I stay in Preveza to get to Lefkada, or is there a ferry that takes me from Parga to Lefkada?

Once on Lefkada, I assume I should stay in the main town of Lefkada. (I see that there is a ferry at Nydri, so would that be my starting point?) Anyway, once I am on the island, my question is the same as it is on Corfu. How does one get around? Are there day tours to parts of the island? Is it possible to hop on a bus and travel around the island and stay a day or two in a different part of the island?

From Lefkada, I would then go to Argostoli? I assume I can get a ferry from Lefkada to Argostoli? I am not sure where the ferry arrives in Argostoli. Does it go to Kefalonia or Argostoli town? How would I get up to Fiskardo? I have read that it is a nice place too.

Finally, should I try to visit Vathy? Or is it easier for me to then continue on to Patras? Again, I assume there must be a ferry from Argostoli to Patras. I know there is transportation from Patras to Athens. I would like to stay a day in Patras to see the Roman Odeon and the castle. Is there anything else you recommend in Patras?

So I guess the main point of my posting is the logistics of getting around on each island/location I list in order to see the sights. I want to pack in as much as possible and love the culture, food, history, and sea. I'd like to combine all of these things into my trip, but the issue is the logistics of travelling.

Thank you to those who reply! ]]> Europe WLMIV https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/corfu-ionia-and-ithaca-itinerary-and-logistics-advice-1735798/ Trip Report Trip Report: Chiclayo and Vicinity: Another Side of Ancient Peru https://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/trip-report-chiclayo-and-vicinity-another-side-of-ancient-peru-1735796/ Mon, 08 Jun 2026 20:17:13 GMT *Chiclayo and Vicinity: Another Side of Ancient Peru* This trip report covers my visit to Chiclayo and two near-by communities, Lambayeque and... Chiclayo and Vicinity: Another Side of Ancient Peru

This trip report covers my visit to Chiclayo and two near-by communities, Lambayeque and Sip�n, in late May (2026). This was not my first visit � I was first there 19 years earlier, found myself quite fascinated, and eventually felt that a re-visit was in order. Yet though I wouldn�t want to discourage any curious tourist from visiting this area, I should point out that it may not be for everyone. Those most likely to appreciate it will be visitors with an interest in ancient Peru, as well as those who, like me, are actually serious when they talk about �getting off the beaten path.� A third group might be beach people, but I�m not one of them, and so I did not visit the nearby beach towns, and therefore cannot comment on them from experience.

I�ve divided this report into three Parts: [1] Just below, a general description of the Chiclayo area; followed in the first two �responses� by [2] An annotated �photo-essay� illustrating the area; and [3] For those who are still interested at this point, some practical advice on visiting and getting around.

Part 1: General Introduction

Chiclayo

A minor walking issue, though nothing serious, kept me from getting around as much as I would have liked (though I did visit two of the more significant local sites), so I won�t be able to describe all the regional attractions from personal experience; and indeed, had Chiclayo been a major world tourist destination I wouldn�t have bothered adding my commentary. However, the Chiclayo area appears to be little known to world tourism, so I�ll assume that any recent information at all will be better than nothing.

(But Chiclayo hasn�t been ignored completely: if my report interests you, check out the Chiclayo commentary embedded in a more general Peru trip report posted by �kja� in 2018, called �Praise for Peru � A report of my solo month in this amazing country�. [Better yet, read the entire trip report!] kja got around the Chiclayo area better than I did, and she describes some of the places I missed.)

Chiclayo itself is a fairly large city, and for the most part it�s not overly aesthetic. Though Chiclayo was founded in the 16th century little, if anything, seems to survive from the colonial era; even the cathedral, though very attractive, was started in 1869 (but reached its present form in the 1930s!). Gustave Eiffel, famous for the Paris tower, had some involvement in the design, as in a few other structures here and there around Peru and South America.

But even if Chiclayo isn't exactly Paris, there�s nothing really wrong with the city; and in fact it seemed very safe, and was usually active and busy. Furthermore, Chiclayo calls itself the Capital of Friendship (�Amistad�), and while this is not an easy judgment to evaluate during a short visit, I have no reason to doubt it � I came away thinking it could well be true!

I found that the city center seemed to be at its best in the early evening. I don�t know about other times of the year, but while during my late-May visit it was hot by day (fortunately, a dry heat), it cooled significantly after sundown, actually becoming quite pleasant; and at that time the busy, modern, welll-lit streets around the central plaza actually looked rather inviting � in particular, Jos� Balta Avenue, sort of the city�s �main street� as it runs south of the plaza, where you�ll find several restaurants and cafes. And while I don�t think anybody goes to Peru for hamburgers, those who do should note that I always spotted a long queue at a take-out hamburger wiondow across from the south-west corner of the plaza � whatever they�re serving must be pretty good.

One of my travel goals is to escape mass tourism, and I appear to have succeeded admirably in Chiclayo. I don�t know whether I was there at an unusual time, but not once did I spot an obvious �gringo� tourist (i.e., from Canada, the US, Europe, or Australia-NZ). There may well have been some around, but if so, it was evidently easy to miss them. (By contrast, on my visit to Cusco many years ago I spotted several within minutes of walking into the city.) If there were other tourists around, they were likely from elsewhere in Peru or South America. Anyway, I consistently had that delightful, though I�m sure unrealistic, sense that I was the first foreign tourist to discover the place!

There are two traditional markets in Chiclayo: the Central Market, a short walk north of the central plaza on Balta Avenue; and a few blocks further north, the Modelo Market. If you are unaquainted with real Latin American markets, you may want to start with the easier, tamer Central Market; you will then be ready to take on the more serious, hard-core Modelo. And somewhere in the huge, sprawling Modelo market you may want to seek out the section devoted to traditional curative herbs, and other shamanistic accessories.

As for the main attractions, the near-by historic sites: Note than the famous Incas came in at the tail end of Peru�s 4500-year history of pre-Spanish civilization � though we call it �ancient,� Machu Picchu was finished roughly around the time that Leonardo da Vinci was born. This is not the place for a dissertation, so I�ll briefly point out that the ancient heritage of the Chiclayo region goes back over a thousand years before the emergence of the Incas, and involves mainly two civilizations: the Mochica who, spanning out from the coastal Trujillo area, dominated the north-west coastal region from the first through the seventh centuries AD, at which point they seem to start losing it; and after one or two �lost� centuries, the Sic�n, who show up in the eighth century and go on to the 14th, carrying forward to a great degree the Mochican culture, and possibly the Mochican language. (Mochican appoears to be an �isolate,� unrelated to any known language; and the last native speaker of died in the mid 20th century.)

The civilizations of north-western Peru left no writing (nor did anyone else in ancient Peru), and several of the great archaeological discoveries have been recent (since the 1970s); and so there is still a lot of debate and conjecture over just what was going on around Chiclayo in ancient times. The gist of it all, though, is that there was a long period of sophisticated civilizations along the north-west coast of Peru (and in fact elsewhere in the country) that are still awaiting the attention of the outside world.

Around Chiclayo

The remains of the Mochicans and the Sic�n, which you will see in the Chiclayo-area museums, as well as in several Lima ones, include many impressive artistic objects of gold and gemstones, and innumerable statuette-style ceramics which serve as �picture-books� illustrating their complex society and culture. Those with sufficient interest could probably spend a lot of time just studying these objects in detail and trying to speculate on what their often unusual designs might have meant.

The Chiclayo-area cultures also built huge structures, often of the truncated-pyramid style common in the ancient Americas. However, these were built with dried mud (adobe), which in many cases has eroded over the centuries. And I admit that intriguing as they are to see for those with interest in these things, these giant, eroded structures (known as huacas, or �wakas�) sitting on the arid coast, may not provide quite the visual pazazz offered by the well-preserved stone structures of Machu Picchu resting on their high-mountain eyrie. These huacas do, however, have the advantage of being much older than the Inca remains, by several centuries to a thousand years. After visiting Tucum�, one of the Chiclayo-area sites, the Norwegian explorer and scholar Thor Heyerdahl wrote that �my companions were visibly as dumbfounded and amazed as I. I literally felt like a visitor to another planet � there was nothing like these strange and colossal ruins on our own familiar Earth.� Though I didn�t make it to Tucum� this time, I felt the basically same way on my 2007 visit; and during a glorious 15-minute period when I was the only tourist on-site, I felt the full import of Mr. Heyerdahl�s comment about being on �another planet�!

(Note: �Huaca,� a word from Quechua � which the northwest-coast cultures did not speak � has no equivalent in English, though �sacred place� roughly conveys the idea. These huacas may not have been sacred to their builders, but they evidently were to the Incas, who were astonished by them when they showed up on the scene centuries later.)

Incidentally, I did not need advance-purchase, timed-entry tickets to see the sites I visited on this trip � at the museums in Lambayeque and Sip�n I just traipsed right up to the respective ticket windows and bought them (the Sip�n museum ticket also covered the near-by archaeological site); and I strongly suspect that you will be able to do the same at the other regional sites.

The history of this region is still under investigation by archaeologists and other scholars, yet for me, the very fact that our knowledge of the ancient Peruvian north-coast cultures is still evolving adds to the fascination of this region. Visiting the relevant sites, I felt almost like a participant, albeit a passive one, in a still-emerging field of study. I could never have felt the same way among the tourist crowds at Europe�s ancient Greek and Roman sites, which have been fairly thoroughly figured out, nor even at heavily-touristed Machu Picchu.

The next two parts of this trip report appear in the following �responses�:

Part 2: Photos from Chiclayo and its vicinity

Part 3: Some practicalities on visiting the Chiclayo area.


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