The bunny hop is executed by approaching an obstacle with speed, lifting the front of the bike then leveling the pedals.  If the bike has full or front suspension, pre-load the shocks by pressing down on the bike just before you reach the obstacle.

Once the shocks have been pre-loaded, the rider will spring upwards, pulling up with the hands and feet at the same time.  Toe straps or clipless pedals help with this, although if plain platform pedals are used, it’s still possible.  As the biker lifts, the hands will roll through twisting the throttle.  After the object is cleared, push down on the bike then absorb the impact with the arms and the legs.

It is a common misconception that a bunny hop without toe clips is achieved by rotating forward on the handlebars.  Lifting up on a mountain bike while standing next to it is quite difficult to hold on to the handle bars.

The bunny hop is very popular with mountain biking, as experienced riders can make it look a lot easier than it actually is.  New mountain bikers should practice a lot before they actually attempt the hop, as doing it on a bigger obstacle can easily be quite dangerous.

With proper practice, the bunny hop can be achieved, even for beginners.  All you have to do is give it some time and effort, and you’ll be pulling off the bunny hop just like the pro’s do it.

Just as cross country riders are a different breed, the bikes they ride are as well.  The cross country bike is completely different in many ways from other types of mountain riding bikes.  The premise for cross country riders is speed.  Everything about their bikes revolve with the idea of making the bikes faster and faster.

Bikes used in cross country mountain biking can be fully rigid frame, hardtails, or even full suspension frames.  Through the years, the cross over to full suspension has become very popular.

The weight difference between free ride bikes and cross country bikes are considerable.  You’ll be extremely hard pressed to find a bike that weighs more than 24 pounds, and even that weight can be heavy.  Free ride bkes weigh close to 40 pounds, which makes the difference in weight pretty close.

If you’ve never tried cross country mountain biking, you’ll probably find it to be a break from the ordinary.  Even though this type of biking involves trails, it’s normally the type of terrain that beginners wouldn’t want to ride.  Involving hills and rough terrain, cross country biking offers quite the rush.

For mountain bikers everywhere, cross country is the way to go.  It offers you a new assortment of bikes, new areas to bike, and a new twist to mountain biking as you know it.  If you’ve been looking for a mountain biking rush, cross country mountain biking is what you need to be experiencing.

For a beginner rider or an infrequent rider, it is probably not worth the extra expense to get a pair of mountain biking shoes as a good pair of sneakers or sports shoes can serve just as well.  It is unlikely that a beginner rider or infrequent rider would notice the increased pedalling efficiency of riding with specialised shoes.  Additionally, a decent pair of cycling shoes can set you back by a hundred dollars or more which might be better spent upgrading your bike.

Cycling shoes are designed to attach to the pedals of the bike to improve pedalling efficiency by allowing the biker to pull up and push down during the full 360 degree pedal stroke.  The attachment, which is often referred to as “clipless”, allows the rider to be “one” with the bike, making it easier to move with the bike while negotiating technical terrain.  Being attached to the bike however involves an initial learning curve as the rider must learn how to release their feet quickly to get off the bike.  Infrequent riders may not want to devote the time to learn how to use them, while a beginner rider is already tasked with learning too many other new skills.

As your skill level improves or if you begin to ride more frequently, you may find it worthwhile to invest in a good pair of cycling shoes.  Cycling shoes are usually lightweight, breathable and closely adhere to the foot.  They have carbon or plastic rigid soles which allow for more efficient transfer of energy to the pedals.  Most also have a cleat that attaches the shoe to the bike pedals.  The stiff sole and cleat make it unsuitable for walking in.

Mountain bike riders who often have to walk in their cycling shoes wear a slightly different type of cycling shoe with recessed cleats and a somewhat softer sole.  The soles also have threads that make it easier to navigate steep and muddy terrain without slipping.

There are a variety of mountain biking shoes to accommodate the different riding styles of mountain biking – competitive, downhill, cross-country, or freeride.  The main differences are the degree of rigidity and type of attachment to the pedal.  In general, the stiffer the shoe, the easier it is to pedal.

The race cleat is a rigid clipless shoe that is designed for performance racing.  The hard plastic sole offers great pedalling performance for competitive mountain bike riders however these shoes are not designed for walking around in.

Recreational clipless shoes are more appropriate for cross-country riders who may have to carry their bikes over obstacles and will need to be able to hike in their cycling shoes.  These shoes are designed to be used with or without clipless pedals and have a more forgiving sole to make it easier to walk in.

Freeride and downhill mountain bikers generally require less rigid, more comfortable biking shoes that provide both absorption and support when landing after a jump.  They often come with reinforced toe-caps and ankle support in the form of high-tops and may be compatible with clipless pedals.  Brands like Five Ten are non-clipless, but made with hard soles molded from sticky rubber which help the rider adhere to the pedals without locking their feet in.

Depending on the style of mountain biking that you do most you will need to select the type of shoes that provide the appropriate balance between performance, comfort and function.

What are the best mountain biking shoes to get?

The best mountain biking shoes to get is the one that suits your riding style and needs, and fits well.  It is important to have cycling shoes that fit well: the heel cup should be snug enough to hold your heel in place while you pedal; there should be a bit of toe room at the end of the shoe; there should be even pressure on the instep when the shoe is worn; and it should hold your foot stable without pinching it.  Just as for any other pair of shoes, your biking shoes should also accommodate the anatomical features of your foot, such as arch height and foot width.

It is important to be aware that there is a compromise between shoe performance and comfort.  For instance, tighter shoes allow for more efficient energy transfer but can be uncomfortable to wear.  Likewise, the more rigid the soles of the shoes, the better the pedalling efficiency however it comes with a price of increase in pressure (and pain) on the forefoot.

Even though you will never be able to get a true idea of how well a shoe fits by standing in it in a bike shop, it is still important to try out different shoe models and sizes.  To test the fit of your heel, stand on your toes and make sure your heels remain firmly in place.  It is important to focus on the fit of the forefoot because this is the area where more cycling-related foot discomfort occurs.  When your shoes are firmly fastened, make sure there are no pressure points that restrict blood flow.  You may want to select a shoe with a removable insole in the event that you need to modify the shoe later for improved comfort.

You should check the soles of your shoes to see how mud and debris are cleared from the cleats when clipping back into your bike pedals.  Finally, also check to make sure there are no loose parts that can get caught in your bike chain, such as the laces.

If you are a serious mountain bike rider, a good pair of mountain biking shoes will make a difference in your overall riding performance.  Finding the best pair of shoes depends on your style of riding and your overall needs.  Just like any other sports shoe, it is important to try out various brands and styles to find the one that fits your foot best.  It is important to get a shoe that fits your foot well or you will not be able to realise the full benefits of having proper mountain biking shoes, no matter how expensive or high-end your shoes are.

Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable.  Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also make them susceptible to pinch flats.

The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup.  The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.

The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions.  After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.

You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge.  Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments.  A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.

You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 – 50 psi.  If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 – 40 psi.  The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with.  Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.

Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting.  You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don’t, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.

You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance.  A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.

With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don’t have to worry about getting pinch flats.  If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you’ve taken the pressure much too low.

Once you’ve found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands.  Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure – with any pump.

These are a few mountain bike safety tips for beginner riders:

1. Make sure you have all the essentials that you will need out on the trail.  These include your first aid kit, bike repair kit, water, food, and appropriate biking gear, among other things.

2. Learn how to perform basic bike repairs before heading out onto a trail.  At the very least, ride with someone who knows how to perform all the basic bike repairs, such as fixing a flat tyre, derailed bike chain, broken bike chain, or loose/broken spoke.  You can learn all these and more from your more experienced friends, your local bike shop, a good biking book, or from the Internet.

3. Get some basic first aid skills in the event you have to deal with the injuries from an accident out on the trail.

4. Check your bike and make sure it is properly maintained and in good working condition.  Also make sure it is properly adjusted for you, such as the seat position.

5. Find out the rules of the trail so you can observe them.  For instance, only ride on open and approved trails.  Check the park map brochures to find out which are the approved trails.

6. Always wear a helmet and make sure it is fitted properly.

7. Practice safe riding habits at all times.  Never ride beyond your control and slow down around blind corners.  Also be sure to ride at your level.  If the trail gets too challenging for the level of your ability, it is better to stop and walk it than to blunder through on the bike.

If you are really new to mountain biking, you may want to brush up on some of your riding skills at a local park, school, bike path or around your neighbourhood before hitting the more challenging mountain bike trails.  The following are some basic riding skills you should practice and be familiar with before heading out onto the trails:

1. Shifting gears – if you have never ridden a bike with gears before, you need to practice shifting gears.  Higher gears are harder to pedal but they will allow you to go faster.  Lower gears are easier to pedal and great for ascending hills.  Get a feel for which gears work best for varying inclines so you won’t be fumbling blindly when you get out there.

2. Balance – move your body around to see how it affects the balance of your bike. As well as getting a feel for left and right balance, you also need to know your front and back balance. Shifting your weight over the back wheel will help increase your traction on an incline.  If your back tyre is slipping, you need to move backwards on your seat.  If your front tyre is lifting off the ground, you need to move forwards to transfer more weight over it.

3. Standing on the bike – learn how to stand on your pedals and how to pedal standing up as you will require these skills to handle the more technical aspects of the trail.  When coasting while standing on your pedals, keep your feet at 3 and 9 o’clock.

To pedal standing up, start on a flat road and shift down to a low gear.  The increased pressure you need to apply to the pedals will help you stand up naturally as you push against the pedals.  Practice riding standing up on different inclines and on different gears until it becomes second nature.

4. Climbing and descending – it is important to know how to handle hills.  This involves a combination of gear shifts, riding standing up and balance.  Descending is a lot more dangerous than climbing a hill, therefore, if in doubt, walk it.

5. Dropping down a curb – practice dropping down from a curb as you will require this skill on the uneven terrain of a mountain bike trail.  Ride standing at a moderate speed and coast off the curb from the upper level to the lower level.  Practice this move at different speeds until you feel comfortable with it.

6. Rounding corners – always brake before entering the corner, not while you’re in it.  Remember to look where you want to go, not where you don’t want to go because your bike follows your eyes.

7. Braking – remember that 60% of your braking force is in your front brakes, so use them but carefully.  Don’t hit the brakes sharply, but apply pressure slowly and gradually.  If you keep your eyes on the trail ahead and anticipate sections where you need to slow down, you won’t have to brake hard.  Hitting the back brakes too hard causes skidding and is damaging to the trails.

The following are tips you can’t practice but you should be aware of:

1. Narrow trails – keep your eyes where you want to go and don’t look off the trail. Slow down around blind curves as other riders or hikers may be around the corner.

2. Obstacles – move your weight back to allow your front wheel to glide over the obstacle (e.g. rocks, holes, bumps).  Occasionally, you may need to lift your front wheel to clear the obstacle.

Mountain biking is a great sport for beginners to pick up however it is important to take the necessary precautions before getting out onto the trails.  Make sure you have the basic skills – bike repair, first aid and riding skills – before heading out.  As long as you plan ahead and take along the essentials, you should be able to relax and have some fun in the great outdoors.

1. Bikes for Women

There are specially tailored bikes that are intended to cater for the common anatomical differences of a woman.  You may find these more comfortable and suitable for you.  For instance, women generally have a shorter torso and longer legs compared to men; women bike designs take this anatomical difference into consideration.  However, some women do naturally have longer torsos and will not find these bikes as suitable.  When shopping for a mountain bike, make sure you try them all out to find the one that fits you best.  If it happens to be a “man’s” bike, so be it.

Other bike features to consider are the wider seats which accommodate a woman’s wider set hips, narrower handle bars to match narrower shoulder widths, brake levers with shorter “reach” for smaller hands, and shocks to match a lighter rider.  There are plenty of other features you can take into consideration when looking to buy a bikes specific for women.

2. Don’t be Afraid to Ride with the Men

In general, men are stronger, faster and more aggressive on the bike (though not always), but don’t let this intimidate you.  You can learn a lot by riding with them just as the experience of riding with other women is different.  Again, this assumption may be stereotypical, but the benefit women have over men is a greater willingness to be shown the ropes and a milder ego (though not always).

3. General Riding Tips

You can learn a lot of riding tips, tricks and techniques by attending a mountain biking camp.  In the meantime, here are a few things to keep in mind when on the trail:

- Always look where you want to go, not where you don’t want to go.  If you look at the trees or rock or the edge of the trail, then chances are, that’s where you’re headed.  Keep your eyes on the trail ahead and your wheels will follow.

- Relax!  Don’t hold the handlebars too tight and keep your arms and shoulders relaxed.

- Don’t be afraid of your momentum.  It will help you over small obstacles, getting up inclines and around corners.  If you keep braking, you’ll have to work harder to tackle these obstacles.

4. Maintain the Neutral Position

This is the ideal position to be in when approaching a descent or a technical part of the trail.  You should be on your feet (i.e. bottom off the seat), eyes forward, feet level and arms relaxed.

5. Dynamic Riding

Don’t just sit all the way through the entire trail.  Get off your seat and move with your bike (even if you have a full suspension bike); the ride will be more comfortable and you will find it easier to learn how to handle technical terrain.  Treat your body like a spring and let your arms and legs work with your bike’s suspension.  Be prepared to move up and down, forwards and backwards, and side to side at all times.

6. Inclines

Depending on the level of the incline, try to stay seated at the beginning and save the standing climbs for the final stretch of the incline.  Standing climbs are also great for getting around a switchback (tight curves that are difficult to navigate at regular speeds), for short steep inclines, or cresting over a rise, however, they are generally not advisable when tackling a long ascent.

Begin with a pace that you can maintain and try to keep an extra gear you can shift into in case you need it.  If the incline is steep, move forwards in your seat, lean forwards over the handle bars and try to maintain your pace.  Avoid wandering all over the trail and keep the front of you bike stable by pulling back and down gently on your grip.

7. Braking

There is a common biking belief that you should never use your front brakes.  That is incorrect.  The front brake offers you 60% of your braking power.  What you need to do is learn how to use it correctly.  Light application is required to avoid an endo, for instance, using one or two fingers when applying the brakes or a gentle repeated pumping action.  Skidding when braking is usually an indication that you are using too much rear brake.  This is bad for the trails so learn to correct it.

8. Descents

When tackling a descent, always return to the neutral position to begin with.  Get off your behind, move backwards and lower your center of gravity.  Be comfortable with your speed but don’t let it get out of control.  If you are skidding to slow your descent, you are out of control.  Avoid gripping the seat with your legs and keep your heels down.  If you need to use the brakes, follow the rules above.

9. Switchbacks

Always look as you move around the turn and keep an eye on the trail beyond the exit of the turn.  Maintain the neutral position, move your body backwards and extend your legs.  Slow down if you need to and keep your bike as upright as possible.  You can do this by keeping your outside elbow extended and bend the inside arm.  This maximises your tyre contact with the ground and keep your weight in balance.

10. Practice

Work on the skills you want to improve.  If you need more practice, stop at specific technical features of a trail and run through them with someone more experienced.  Alternatively, just practice the move a few times until you feel comfortable to move on.  Remember, there’s nothing like practice to help you get better at anything – mountain biking included.

11. Enjoy!

Above all, make sure you enjoy yourself.  Push yourself, test your limits and do whatever you feel you need to, but keep it fun.  Remember, you are out there to get away from the stress of city life and enjoy yourself.

Maintaining traction in such conditions can be difficult as you try to prevent your rear wheel from slipping and your front wheel from lifting as you climb.  Learning how to get the right traction involves a combination of figuring how to achieve the right weight distribution across your bike, how to maintain your pedal power by pedalling with the right cadence and in the optimum gear, and finding the best line on the track to follow.

As always, what goes up must come down.  Although cruising downhill may be appear more effortless than powering uphill, steep descents in wet and muddy conditions and obstacles on the trail make it a very technical experience.  It is important to develop the proper skills and knowledge before attempting to tackle descents at high speed.  Remember that even veteran riders can lose control at times.

Experience is the best teacher when it comes to mastering the hills however there are some tips you can follow to help you along the road to conquering them.

When handling inclines, there are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Know your bike

If you’re new to mountain biking, you may want to practice on some gradual ascents before heading out on a trail.  Start with a low gear and experiment with the gears until you get a feel for which gears to use on various inclines.  Once you are confident you know your bike well enough, it’s time to hit some real hills.

2. It begins in your head

Part of learning how to conquer a steep hill involves mastering your own mind.  Muscle fatigue is your worst enemy when it comes to a long and challenging ascent.  To help you stay on track, break the climb up into several sections so you don’t get discouraged by the length of the ascent.

The other thing you need to do is pick the line you intend to follow.  If there is an obstacle in your path, take a quick note of it and concentrate on the best route around it.  Try not to dwell on the obstacle because what you think about is what you get.  If you’re too busy focussing on the obstacle, chances are that’s where you’re heading.

Give yourself some time to get into the groove.  In the initial part of the ascent, you will feel like quitting – don’t stop!  Keep pedalling and you’ll eventually find your rhythm.

3. Positioning

The best position to be in when tackling an incline is to shift your body backwards in your seat and lean your upper body forward over your handle bars.  As you get better at it, you can eventually start shifting your weight forwards to help prevent front wheel lifting.  You should also press down onto your handlebars.  This will help to keep the pressure on your front wheel and maintain traction.  If you feel as though you are pulling on the handle bars, you need to move forward.

How much you need to move depends on the steepness of the incline and this will come with practice.  If you aren’t leaning forwards far enough, you will find your front wheel lifting off the ground (which can happen on very steep inclines).  If you are too far forwards, your back wheel will slip.  For a very steep incline, you may have to come off the seat and crouch as low as possible.

Move your hands to the end of the handle bars to open up your chest – this will help you fill up your lungs as you’re going to need all the oxygen you can get.  Keep your legs and arms flexed but don’t lock your joints.  Drop your elbows and keep them close to your side to help lower your center of gravity.  Also try to keep your center of gravity over the gears and ahead of your rear tyre.

4. Standing or Seated

Stay seated whenever possible and save your standing position for that final push over the crest.  You can also ride standing if the incline is short.  Although standing offers you more pedal power, it is a tiring position to maintain because it utilises more energy.  It is not a good tactic for handling long ascents.  You should always save it for your last ditch attempt to get over the rise.

Some people find that standing for short durations can help break the monotony of a long climb and shift the focus to different muscles.  If you decide to do this, shift into a higher gear as you move into a standing position while pedalling.  Keep your weight centered over the pedals and press down on the handlebars.

5. Gears

Figure out which gear you need as you approach the hill.  If you have enough momentum, you can begin the ascent in a higher gear and shift down on the way up.  Otherwise, you’ll have to shift your gear down just before entering the hill.  Don’t shift into the lowest gear possible.  To begin with, select the gear that is low enough for you to tackle the hill without having to stand on your pedals.  You should always save at least one last gear for the event when you really need it.

6. Pedalling

Maintain a constant and rhythmic motion and maximise the efficiency of each pedal stroke.  Try not to enter the hill too fast or you will lose your rhythm on the way up as the pedalling gets harder.  Pay attention to your body as you pedal up the hill.  If your body is swaying from side to side as you attempt to push down harder with each foot, then you aren’t pedalling efficiently.  What you want to achieve is a smooth and even pedal stroke.

Also, instead of going for a “push-push” pedal stroke, make sure you are pulling back at the bottom of your pedal stroke – similar to the motion of scraping mud off the bottom of your shoes.  This will also help you to maximise the efficiency of your pedal strokes.  Although this is easier to achieve with clipless pedals, you can still achieve it with snugly fitted toeclips.

When facing a descent, these are some pointers to keep in mind:

1. Body armour

If you’re new to mountain biking, you may want to invest in some body-armour before tackling the descents.  Even experienced riders crash – more so if you are inexperienced.  Having a face mask, helmet (goes without saying), knee and elbow pads will help minimise the seriousness of your injuries.

2. Adjust your bike

If the trail is largely a downhill ride, you may want to make the necessary adjustments to your bike to make it more suitable for downhill riding, for instance, lowering your seat and/or changing your tyres to downhill tyres.  You may also require harder suspension in the fork of your bike.

3. Mental preparation

It is important to relax and be one with your bike.  Don’t grip your handlebars too tight and be ready to move with you bike.  Pick a line on the trail and follow it down.  Look where you want to go – not at the trees, the rocks or edge of the trail, unless that’s where you want to head off to.

4. Positioning

Stand up on your pedals, shift your weight as far back as possible over the back tyre and stay low.  Keep your legs and arms relaxed and flexible.  Your feet should be on the pedals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, unless you are negotiating a sharp turn.  In the event that you do lose control of the bike, it will be easier for you to jump off the back of the bike in this position.

5. Braking

Most people have the misconception that you should never use the front brakes on a descent.  This is incorrect.  The front brakes give you 60% of your braking power.  It is important for controlling the speed of your downhill descent.  What you need to do is use it correctly by applying light pressure or by pumping the brake lever.  Never, never grab your front brakes hard or you risk and endo (flying over the handlebars).  Likewise, you should not overuse your back brakes.  Too much back brakes will cause skidding, so apply both brakes evenly.

Learning how to handle the hills on a mountain bike is largely achieved through practical experience.  No amount of reading about biking tips can truly prepare you for what lies ahead although it can give you a start.  The best way to learn how to handle hills while mountain biking is to get out there and practice.  Begin with the easier inclines and descents and only move on to more challenging terrain as you gain experience and confidence.

To help maintain and keep your bike in good working condition, it is recommended that you give it a quick clean and lube after every ride.  This is especially important if the trails that you ride are dry and dusty, or muddy.  Dirt and mud clog up the moving parts and increases wear and tear.  Also make sure that you send your bike for regular maintenance at the bike shop so that any parts you don’t know how to handle can be looked after.

A good sign that your bike needs a quick lube is if its starts to get noisy or shifting parts gets sticky.  Which parts need lubrication?  The general rule is: if it moves, it needs to be lubricated.  Make sure that you only use lubricants that are formulated for use on bikes.  If you took care to buy a good bike, chances are it didn’t come cheap so now is not the time to scrimp.  Brands like Pedro’s and White Lightning are great for the chain, while something like Tri-Flow can be used on all the other moving parts of the bike.

It is important to give your bike a quick clean before lubricating – whether you hose it down, wipe it with a cloth or brush.  Once that is done, you can begin a quick lube of your bike as follows.  Make sure you wipe off any excess lube as you go.

1. Bike chain

A well-lubricated chain will last a long time and it also makes gear shifts easier.  To lubricate your bike chain, turn the bike upside down and slowly crank the pedals.  As the chain rotates, spray or drip the lubricant on.

2. Derailleurs

The derailleurs are the parts that move the chain from gear to gear, so if shifting gears is difficult, then it is likely you need to lubricate your derailleurs.  You may need to use a brush to clean off any dirt or mud first.  Apply the lubricant to any movable point on your derailleur.

Turn the bike upside down and move the pedals and shift gears.  Apply lube to the moving parts as you shift the gears.

3. Pedals

You need to apply lube to the parts of your pedals where they attach to the cranks.  If you use clipless pedals, you may also need to lube the release mechanism.

4. Brakes

You need to lubricate the pivot points where the brakes move, and basically anywhere where there is a moving joint or metal on metal.  You will also need to lubricate the pivot points on the brake levers.  Just make sure you don’t get any lube on the brake shoes, the rims or the brake levers.

Once you have lubricated all the moving parts of the bike that you can access, check your bike.  Move it around, or better yet, ride it around the block and check if it still squeaks.  If it sounds fine and the gear shifts are smooth, then you’re ready to go.

The Bicycle Helmet Statistics Institute reports that:

-  “About 540,000 bicyclists visit emergency rooms with injuries every year. Of those, about 67,000 have head injuries, and 27,000 have injuries serious enough to be hospitalized.”

-  “Non-helmeted riders are 14 times more likely to be involved in a fatal crash than helmeted riders.”

-  “Head injuries account for more than 60 percent of bicycle-related deaths, more than two-thirds of bicycle-related hospital admissions and about one-third of hospital emergency room visits for bicycling injuries.”

The statistics also show that among various sports-related injuries, bicycle-related injuries accounted for the greatest number of head injuries and hospitalised head injuries.

Given the frequency and severity of head injuries caused by biking accidents, it is evident that something must be done to protect a cyclist’s head while riding a bike.  The recommendation has been to wear a helmet while cycling.

Bicycle helmets provide protection to the skull in the event of a fall involving an impact to the head.  Helmets work by helping to slow the deceleration of the head upon impact by absorbing kinetic energy through its internal layer of crushable foam.

The opponents of the law for compulsory helmets while cycling might argue that a helmet does not guarantee the prevention of head injuries due to cycling.  Indeed, it does not for the only way to guarantee prevention of head injuries due to cycling would be to avoid an accident altogether – in other words, don’t ride a bike.  If you must ride a bike, then you should wear a helmet because it has been proven to reduce the risk of cycling-related head injuries, their severity and related deaths.

The Bicycle Helmet Statistics Institute reports:

- “Bicycle helmets have been shown to reduce the risk of head injury by as much as 85 percent and the risk of brain injury by as much as 88 percent.  Bicycle helmets have also been shown to offer substantial protection to the forehead and midface.”

- “It is estimated that 75 percent of bicycle-related fatalities among children could be prevented with a bicycle helmet.”

- “Universal use of bicycle helmets by children ages 4 to 15 could prevent between 135 and 155 deaths, between 39,000 and 45,000 head injuries, and between 18,000 and 55,000 scalp and face injuries annually.”

Furthermore, a study from Western Australia reported that increased helmet usage has reduced the incidence and severity of head injuries in Australia. Hospitals reported that the increased use of helmets over time was linked with a reduction of the number of closed head injuries by half. Additionally, the head injuries were less serious, and hospital stays were shorter.

The fact that helmets reduced the risk of incurring head injuries, the risk of incurring a severe head injury and the risk of death resulting from head injuries lends itself to the importance of wearing a helmet while biking.  After all, what could be more important than protecting one of your most vital organs and saving your life?  If you were to find yourself in a biking accident involving an impact to your head that is exactly what a helmet could do for you.

Additionally, the cost of a helmet, even one that is an expensive, high-end type, fully justifies the savings that ensue from a reduction in healthcare costs due to hospitalised head injuries resulting from cycling accidents.  You could even consider a helmet an affordable health insurance policy for biking.

The Bicycle Helmet Statistics Institute reports that the usage, or lack of usage, of helmets have the following impact on healthcare costs:

-  “Direct costs of cyclists’ injuries due to not using helmets are estimated at $81 million each year, rising with health care costs.”

-  “Indirect costs of cyclists’ injuries due to not using helmets are estimated at $2.3 billion each year.”

- “Every dollar spent on a bike helmet saves society $30 in direct medical costs and other costs to society.”

- “If 85 percent of all child cyclists wore bicycle helmets in one year, the lifetime medical cost savings could total between $109 million and $142 million.”

Mountain biking is included under the umbrella of biking accidents.  It could also be said that mountain biking is the more dangerous type of biking since the number of falls are higher than road biking.  With a higher likelihood of accidents due to mountain biking, it is also likely that there are more head injuries resulting from mountain biking as compared to other styles of biking.  It can therefore be extrapolated that if helmets are an important safety feature for cyclists in general, then for mountain bike riders it would be even more so.

Part of having a correctly set up mountain bike is having a properly position seat – something that is often easily overlooked.  Although many experienced cyclists have their own preferences and may make changes to suit different riding conditions, the following are the recommendations for a novice rider with limited experience.

Before a seat can be properly set up, it is important to be sure that the frame of your mountain bike is right for your body length, otherwise any adjustments you make to the seat will be incorrect.  Another consideration is the selection of an appropriate seat type.  It is important to get a seat that supports the “sit-bones” at the back of your pelvis.  A seat that fails to do so will translate to a very uncomfortable ride.  For instance, women have more widely spaced “sit-bones” and generally require a wider seat to provide the necessary support.

Setting a mountain bike seat is fairly straightforward.  If you are new to the sport and have just bought your first bike, it is advisable to get someone experienced from the shop to help you set up your seat properly.  When setting up a mountain bike seat, there are three factors to take into consideration.

1. Height

A common mistake made is to have the seat positioned too low.  One of the reasons why inexperienced riders set their seats too low is because they have not learned the proper techniques for mounting and dismounting a bike.  They rely on being able to put a foot on the ground to steady the bike as they mount and dismount.

The problems with having a seat that is positioned too low is that you end up riding with your knees excessively bent.  This causes harm to your knees and increases riding inefficiency.  The human leg is strongest when it is straight.  When you ride with your seat too low, you do not utilise the full potential of your leg strength because you cannot straighten it fully.

Riding with a seat that is too low also makes it harder to transfer some of your body weight to your legs.  This means you will sit with more weight on the saddle, which in turn increases saddle discomfort.

How high should the seat be positioned?

There are a few ways to adjust the seat height.  The first is to sit on your bike with your heels on the pedals. One pedal should be at its lowest point while the other at its highest point.  Your seat should be adjusted so that the leg that is extended is straight.  When you ride with the ball of your foot pressing against the pedal, there will be a slight bend in your leg when the pedal is at its lowest point.  It is recommended that your knees should not be bent more than 25-30 degrees.  If your leg is bent more than this angle, then your seat is too low.  If you have to rock your hips when pedalling, then your seat is positioned too high.

The second method for adjusting seat height follows the idea that you won’t know what too high is until the seat is too high.  The method for adjusting seat height in this case is to keep adjusting your seat up, 1cm at a time, and testing it as you ride.  Keep raising the seat until it gets too high then lower it slightly.

You will know if your seat is too high when you have to rock your hips to pedal.  It will feel as if you have to stretch your legs to reach the pedal at its lowest point.  Additionally, you may also find yourself moving forwards so that you are sitting on the narrow part of the seat.  It should be noted that the latter may also mean that your seat is angled too low at the front or that the reach to your handle bars is too far.

When adjusting seat height, there is only so much a seat-post can be lifted before it becomes overextended.  At minimum, there should be 10cm left in the frame.  Most seat-posts have a maximum-extension mark on the post to show when you have reach the limit of your seat-post.  Going beyond this mark increases the risks of damaging your frame and compromises the security of the seat.  If you are uncertain, pull the seat-post out to check.  If you need your seat to be positioned higher, it is better to get a longer seat-post instead.

There are instances when you may want to lower the seat from the recommended height position.  For instance, if the trail is very technical or if there are many steep downhill slopes, a lower seat will offer you improved agility and greater safety.  Another instance for having a slightly lower seat position is when you are using clipless pedals.  When riding with clipless pedals, you can increase your pedal power by pulling the pedal backward near the bottom of the stroke.  A lower seat position will help you achieve this.

2. Angle

The general recommendation is to have the angle of the seat fairly close to horizontal. A correctly angled seat should not make you feel as though you are being pushed forwards or backwards when riding.  If you feel that you are putting too much weight on your hands, raise the nose of your seat up a little.  If you experience any numbness in the crotch area, tilting the nose of your seat down a little may help.

Some men prefer to have the front of the seat slightly higher than the rear.  If the seat is angled too high at the front, it increases the pressure on the soft tissues and can cause problems with circulation and nerve damage.  Some women prefer to have the front slightly lower than the rear, however if the seat is tilted too far down in front, the rider tends to slide forwards onto the narrower part of the seat.  To counter this, increased pressure is placed on the hands, which leads to wrist, shoulder and neck problems.

Some research has found that the nose-down position helps to reduce the incidence of back-pain in cyclists, which may be a consideration if you fall into this category.  Finally, another consideration to take is when you are riding a full-suspension bike.  The sag in the rear suspension will need to be taken into consideration when adjusting the angle of the seat.

3. Front/back Position

You can also adjust your mountain bike seat forwards and backwards.  An appropriately adjusted front/back position helps to ensure you are pedalling at an efficient angle.  Here are some measures to follow:

- When your pedals are parallel to the ground, your knee cap should be directly above the pedal spindle.

- When your pedal is at its lowest point, the front of your kneecap should be directly above the pedal axle.

As you can see there are several factors to take into consideration when adjust the seat of a mountain bike.  Failing to have a properly set mountain bike seat increases the risk of injury, riding discomfort and pedalling inefficiency.  To maximise your riding experience, make sure your mountain bike is properly adjusted before hitting the dirt.