Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

When night falls, head for the Kulturehuset. Photo: Pineapplebun

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

On October 25th, the clocks changed and Sweden fell back one hour. For many people around the world, this just means that it gets darker a little earlier, in Stockholm it means that on Monday the 26th Stockholmers were greeted with a sunset around 4:00 pm. The days are short in Sweden now and only getting shorter as winter approaches.

Luckily, there are plenty of things to do to keep busy, and some that will really appeal to Cheapos.

Daylight on the island of Djurgården

The city of Stockholm is built on a string of islands, which makes for beautiful sightseeing. Start your day by taking advantage of the daylight and wandering around the island of Djurgården. Walk along Strandvägen on your way to the island or take bus 47 from Central Station and get off at Djurgårdsbron.

The island itself is an amazing blend of nature and history. Several museums dot the island from the famous Vasa Museum, one of the most popular museums in Stockholm, to Waldemarsudde, a beautiful art museum, to Skansen, a living outdoor museum. For Cheapos, however, Djurgården can be enjoyed without spending a dime (or krona, in this case).

Walking around Djurgården, it’s easy to forget you are in the biggest city in Sweden. That might be because as you head east on the island you’ll be staring out towards the edge of the Stockholm archipelago. Or it could be the large National Park that runs through Stockholm and Djurgården.

The area of the National Park on the island is known as “Isbladskärret” and is a beautiful place to see the birds of Sweden, most notably the herons, which can be seen flying home to their nests as the sun sets in the spring.

Off to the Kulturhuset

As the sun starts to set, (remember, the days are short during the fall and winter here in Stockholm) start heading back to the city and to the Kulturhuset, (The Culture House).

Kulturhuset is located right in front of Sergels torg, the large chessboard-like square. Several bus stops in the area as well as one exit from Central Station make it hard to miss Sergels torg. Coming from Djurgården, you can either walk back along Strandvägen, or take bus 47 and get off at the Sergels torg stop.

Kulturhuset is known for its free exhibitions. Keep in mind that most of the exhibitions are closed on Mondays, and on all other days they don’t open until 11 AM. Closing times vary depending on the day of the week, so be sure to check Kulturhuset’s website if you’re unsure.

Once inside, Kulturhuset has a lot to offer. Each of the five floors has something, most of which are free. You’ll always have access to the Library for Comics and Graphic Literature on the 2nd floor, and the Kidzone on the 4th floor. Revolving photo exhibitions, film festivals, musical performances, and even literature workshops can be found on the other floors throughout the year.

After having explored the natural beauty of Stockholm, as well as the cultural offerings, relax with one of the numerous global newspapers available or befriend a local and finish your day with a game of chess. You’ll have experienced Stockholm, and done so on a budget that any Cheapo would love.

A delicious moment at Maoz in Amsterdam. Photo: Sairenso

By Amy Goemans in Amsterdam—

Who says that every type of fast food is bad for you? Maoz, a popular fast-food franchise in Amsterdam, breaks the norm with their delicious vegetarian on-the-go snacks. At the very least, Maoz offers Cheapos a healthy quick meal at a modest price.

A bit of History

Maoz is a chain of vegetarian eateries that started out in Amsterdam. Established in 1991, it has since expanded to cities across the globe, including London, Paris, Barcelona, Philadelphia, and New York.

The aim of the founders was to win folks over with sumptuous vegetarian foods. Thus, they introduced the Maoz sandwich, and packed it full of healthy ingredients. The sandwich itself is a simple pita bread shell that is filled with treats like chickpea-filled falafel balls, spices like garlic, parsley and coriander, and other ingredients like hummus, feta cheese and avocado. Hungry yet?

The Combos

At Maoz, you order a basic sandwich and then head to the salad bar for toppings. There are a few sandwich types you can pick as your base (the falafel Maoz, salad pita, or egg pita) and then fill up with the topping of your choice. Choices include carrot salad, broccoli, cucumber, dill, couscous and a number of yummy sauces.

Maoz sandwiches come in two sizes and you can opt for French fries or salad on the side. The base pitas start at €4 and extras on the side can be added for €2-3. Meal deals, offering a sandwich with fries and a drink, run €6-8.

Note: There might be a small variation in price depending on the location. We’ve noticed that the stores in busier areas offered lower prices.

Locations

There are a number of Maoz eateries in Amsterdam. They include:

Muntplein 1, 1017 Ck Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Leidsestraat 85, 1017 NX Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Oudebrugsteeg 30, Amsterdam, Noord-Holland 1012 JP
Sun -Thu 11 am - 1 am
Fri-Sat 11 am – 3 am

Van Woustraat 15, 1074 Amsterdam
Sun -Thu 11 am - 10 pm
Fri-Sat 11 am – midnight

Ferdinand Bolstraat 67
1072 LC, Amsterdam
Mon – Sun 11 am - 11 pm

Leaves in in Gallecs, Catalonia. Photo by Horitzons Inesperats.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona–

Fall is creeping into northeastern Spain ever so slowly. Today I even saw someone swimming in the Mediterranean, mind you, it is far too cold for that nonsense. We know the seasons are changing here in Barcelona, because all non-palm trees are beginning to shed their leaves, which is especially obvious on the tree-lined Rambla.

Replacing lush leaves are the “Yam Guys.” This is not their real name, but it’s what I call them. They show up as the weather gets nippy and set up their food carts throughout town. Their operation is simple, nothing more than a BBQ grill and a cash box, plus a stack of old newsprint to wrap up the chestnuts and barbecued yams that they sell for a couple euros. I strongly recommend the yams—they’re a strange sort of street food, but very delicious and seem to embody autumn with their sweet burnt flavors.

Looking for leaves around Barcelona

While it is clear that fall is here, those who want to see forests ablaze in reds, yellows and tangerines will have to hit the road and get out of the city. Sad but true, Barcelona does not have enough in the way of green spaces for one to take much notice of fall colors. That and the fact that many of the trees here are of the tropical variety.

Instead, head for the mountains, the Pyrenees to be exact, just an hour and forty-five minutes from the city due north. Along the highways that run up to Spanish-French border town Puigcerda, you’ll find plenty of autumn splendor tucked amongst quaint Catalan villages.

Do yourself a favor and rent a car to really get out into the countryside. Sure, you could take the RENFE train inland and glimpse some fall shades, but a car will get you out into the thick of the color-fest. (Note: Catalonia is not Connecticut, but there is still fall flare to be had!)

I recommend the following route for fall colors and nature lovers:

Take the C-16 north from Barcelona all the way to Puigcerda. Stay the night there if you can, or at one of the smaller (and most likely cheaper) villages along the way. On the way back to Barcelona take the long way home heading west to La Seu d’Urgell and then swinging south again towards the city.

To make renting a car budget-friendly, try to get a few people to go in a group to share gas costs. Also, consider renting on off-days (week days) or reserving the car ahead of time which can also save you some dinero. Lately, because fall is off-season here, there have been some great car rental deals with the company Sixt.com.

For extra savings, grab a couple of yams and a newspaper full of chestnuts for road grub from the Yam Guys. Happy Trails!

The SNCF station at Charles de Gaulle airport.

By Liz Webber–

As Cheapos know, it’s almost always less expensive to buy train tickets directly through the website of a country’s national rail service rather than through RailEurope’s English-language site or overseas agents, especially for France’s TGV system. Fares can also be cheaper booking online than buying the tickets in person at the station.

However, booking a ticket in another language can be intimidating. France’s SNCF website is fairly easy to navigate, but if your French doesn’t extend much beyond “Parlez-vous anglais?” use this cheat sheet to book day trips from Paris or crisscross the country!

Step 1: Choose where and when you’re going

The SNCF homepage. Be strong!

On the SNCF homepage, there is a box on the left-hand side for quickly booking trains. First, enter the “départ” (where you’re ”departing” from) and “arrivée” (where you’ll be “arriving”).

Next choose your departure date in the box next to “Aller le” (”going the…”) and return date in the box next to “Retour le” (”returning the…”). If it’s a one-way journey (“aller-simple”) leave the return date blank. Note that the dates follow the European format of DD/MM/YYYY.

Also choose your desired departure time for both directions (“à partir de” means “starting from”). Remember that these times will be written in standard 24-hour format.

Specify how many people will be traveling using the drop-down menu next to “Adultes” (adults), and select either first or second class.

For direct trains only (without transfers), click the box marked “trajets directs.” Then hit the orange “Rechercher” (”search”) button to begin searching for tickets.

Note: Under the search box, you’ll notice a tempting array of little flags. If you’re already feeling a bit nervous, you’ll understandably be drawn to the English flag. Sure, clicking it will change the language to English–but it will also send all results through RailEurope, a helpful agency for foreign tourist that usually adds a substantial mark-up to ticket prices.

Step 2: Select your tickets

Now a page will open with options for the first half of your journey. Prices can vary greatly depending on the travel time and the day of the week, and only reflect half the cost of the total journey for a round-trip ticket (“aller-retour”). However, when booking for more than one person at a time the price reflects the total cost for all tickets.

The box at the top shows all the options at a glance, from which you can then scroll down to select the one that best fits your specifications. Tickets are color-coded by price range, whereby orange designates the cheapest fares, blue more moderate fares, and gray the most expensive.

When you check one of the circles to choose a ticket, a so-small-you-might-miss-it box pops up underneath all the options for that departure time that says “Choisir Ma Place” (“Choose My Seat”). From the drop-down menu, specify if you’d like to sit “à côté de” (next to) a particular seat, or simply give a preference for “fenêtre” (window) or “couloir” (aisle). Pretty much all trains in France have assigned seats, so be sure to keep that in mind when you go to board.

Note: If you’ve selected an “iDTGV” train, you will be permitted to choose your “ambiance.” “iDzap” is a train friendly to portable electronics, DVDs, cellphones, etc., while ”iDzen” restricts electronics, cellphones, and anything that makes noise.

Be careful of tickets marked only “non échangeable” (non-exchangeable) or “non remboursable” (non-refundable), though most fares cannot be exchanged or refunded “après départ” (after departure). Certain tickets must be paid for online and printed at home – if so the fine print will read “Paiement en ligne. Billet à imprimer vous-même” (”Online payment. Print your own ticket.”)

Once you have figured out what time you want to leave and have chosen your seat, click the orange box directly underneath marked “Valider cet aller” (”Validate this part of the trip”). Make sure you hit the right one!

You’ll then go through the same process again for the return journey. Again, remember that the price is for one way of the journey.

Step 3: Payment

On the following page, confirm that all parts of your journey are correct then click “Valider votre réservation” (”Validate your reservation”) to proceed.

Next come three questions before the actual payment.

IMPORTANT: Since the majority of SNCF ticket machines do not accept American credit cards, be sure to click “Gare ou boutique” (”Rail station or boutique”) for question 1 in order to pick up your tickets from a ticket window at the station. Also note that if you’re booking an iDTGV (as pictured), you will only be given the option of printing your own ticket.

Question 2 requires the input of a “civilité” (”title”), “nom” (”LAST name”), “prénom” (”FIRST name”) and e-mail address for confirmation purposes.

Under question 3, check the box to indicate that you agree with the SNCF terms and conditions. Then click “Valider votre commande” (”Validate your order”).

Finally, it’s time to enter your credit card information. Note: The card you use to book must be presented to pick up your tickets, so be sure to use the card that you’ll be taking with you on your trip.

After entering all your data, hit the “valider” button one last time to complete the transaction. A screen should pop up with your confirmation code, which will also be sent in an email along with your itinerary. Print either for your records and to bring with you when you collect your tickets.

Step 4: Picking up your tickets

Now comes the easy part! Simply head to your departure station with your credit card and booking number to get your tickets. Many SNCF agents even speak English and so can help you make any changes to your reservation and get you to where you’re supposed to be.

Departure tracks are usually announced 20-30 minutes before the train is scheduled to leave, so be sure to leave enough time to pick up your tickets and figure out where you need to go. And don’t forget to stamp your ticket in the machine by the track before getting on the train!

Bonus tip: Reserve now, pay later

The SNCF website lets you reserve a ticket online without paying for it in advance or even giving a credit card. On the pre-payment page, instead of clicking “Gare ou boutique” under question 1 hit “Option.” The red text lets you know the date and time by which you need to confirm your reservation (usually 24 or 48 hours before departure), and you’ll receive an email with a booking code.

If you’re not sure what your schedule will be like or don’t want to give out your information online, reserve your seat then bring your confirmation number to the station before departure to pick up and pay for your tickets.

Buying olives at London's Borough Market. Photo by Kulbowski.

By Justin Bergman in London—

If it’s a weekend in London, then it’s market time, no matter what season. Londoners are undeniably proud of their markets and not just because some of them date back to medieval times. The city’s markets are hands down the best places to find bargains, whether you are looking for vintage clothes, artisanal cheeses or bouquets of lilies. They also can’t be beat for people watching, particularly Broadway Market on a Saturday (see below).

So grab an eco-friendly cloth bag (nothing else will do in London), make sure you have lots of cash, and get shopping—here’s my guide for navigating the busy weekend market schedule and making sure you hit the right spots at the right times.

Borough Market

What it’s good for: Food, glorious food.
When to go: Thursdays (11 AM - 5 PM), Fridays (noon - 6 PM), Saturdays (8 AM - 5 PM)
Location: Underneath London Bridge on the Thames at the London Bridge Tube stop.
Website: www.boroughmarket.co.uk

The lowdown: One of the biggest outdoor food markets in the world, Borough Market is a must for any foodie… well, any visitor to London, really. You can find just about anything here: organic meats, gourmet cheeses, fruits and vegetables, unbelievable pork pies, venison burgers, giant cauldrons of Jamaican curries and paellas, and of course lots of sweets. Prices are relatively reasonable, too. Expect to pay about £5-10 for lunch.

Broadway Market

Broadway Market. Photo Mermaid99

What it’s good for: A little bit of everything and the best people watching.
When to go: Saturdays from 11 AM - 6 PM
Location: Broadway Market (it’s a street) in Hackney, East London.
Nearest train stop is London Fields on the National Express overground line (from Liverpool St. Station).
Website: www.broadwaymarket.com

The lowdown: What started off as a small neighborhood market has in recent years started to draw in folks from all over the city to pick up vintage clothes, organic meats and cheeses, artisanal cupcakes, and crafts from local boutiques.

It’s small—just one street—but you can easily while away an afternoon snacking and watching the East End fashionistas strutting up and down the road like it’s a catwalk. Finish off the day with a couple pints at one of the two local pubs—Cat & Mutton or the Dove.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Columbia Road flower market. Photo: Dinoboy.

What it’s good for: Flowers, plus shopping at independent boutiques.
When to go: Sundays from 8 AM - 4 PM
Location: Columbia Road in Hackney, East London. Nearest tube is Old Street.
Website: www.columbiaroad.info

The lowdown: Noisy, crowded and unmistakably London, this market gives you the best flavor of what market day was probably like in Victorian times. The flower vendors try to out-shout each other with their cockney accents and their impossibly low prices: “Ten roses for a fiver! Ten roses for a fiver! Get ’em before they’re gone!”

The other reason to go is the line of cute boutiques, cupcake shops, perfumeries, and art galleries lining the road, many of which only open their doors on Sundays. Be sure to check out Ryantown, where London artist Rob Ryan sells his quirky wall hangings made of cut paper.

Brick Lane

What it’s good for: Vintage and indie designer clothing, exotic foods.
When to go: Sundays from 10 AM - 6 PM
Location: Brick Lane, East London. Nearest tube is Liverpool Street.
Website: www.sundayupmarket.com

The lowdown: Heaving on weekends and as chaotic as East London gets, with vintage clothes sellers, student fashion designers, ethnic food hawkers and locals with all sorts of bric-a-brac spread out on blankets all vying for your attention.

Two spots not the miss: the Upmarket in the Old Truman Brewery (where most of the clothing is found), and the food vendors in the courtyard behind it—you’ll find everything from Sri Lankan to Mauritian to Mexican (spelled “Maxican” by the Chinese stall owners). Don’t waste your time at the Spitalfields Market next door—it pales in comparison to this raucous party.

Walking along the East Side Gallery. Photo by Mark Turner.

By Susan Buzelli in Berlin–

With only a handful of sights to its name, the edgy Berlin district of Friedrichshain, which is infamous for its anti-capitalism protests, prolific graffiti artists, and rocking music venues, isn’t a jackpot in the sight-seeing department. But thanks to its free-to-see landmarks and a bevy of inexpensive and innovative eateries, this is a great day-time destination for Cheapos desperate to give their wallets some serious R and R.

Here are some great ways to spend a Cheapo-friendly afternoon in Friedrichshain.

Open-air Art: The East Side Gallery

From the Ostbahnhof S-bahn station, stroll alongside Friedrichshain’s best-known attraction: the free-of-charge East Side Gallery (Mühlen Str., between the Ostbahnhof train station and Warschauer Str.) Reputed to be the continent’s largest open-air gallery, it’s a great way to pay tribute to the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

The .8-mile-long stretch of Wall bordering the Spree river is a concrete canvas for some 100 graffiti-style artworks. The two most famous images: Birgit Kinder’s painting of a Trabant, the iconic East German car, bursting through the Wall and Dmitri Vrubel’s rendering of a passionate kiss between the Soviet Union’s Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany’s Erich Honecker. If you need a break, spread out on the recently revamped Spree river banks, tucked away just behind the Wall.

A Bridge with a View

The Oberbaumbrucke. Photo by Stadtneurotiker.

Once you’ve reached the end of Mühlen Str., the historic, red brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge, which links Friedrichshain to Kreuzberg, is impossible to miss.

Originally built in the 18th century, the two-story structure with a 21st-century addition by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, offers sweeping views of eastern Berlin. Look east to see the shimmering silver Molecule Man sculpture rising from the river. Look west to spot the ubiquitous Fernsehturm (TV tower).

Music fans should check out the patterned brick-and-glass Universal Records building, where the company’s European headquarters is located, adjacent to the bridge.

Lunch in a shabby-chic hood

Continue north on Warschauer Strasse to reach the heart of the Boxhaganer Kiez, a shabby-chic hood between Boxhagener Strasse and Revaler Strasse. A gathering place for stylish students, wannabe musicians, and other low-earning Berliners, this colorful corner boasts plenty of eateries serving low-budget food with flair. The best spots serve portions so large that a party of two could fill their bellies for less than €10.

Organic burger joints and vegan eateries are the restaurants du jour in this trend-conscious foodie zone. Since you probably didn’t travel all the way to Berlin to sample diner-style cheeseburgers (or veggie burgers) and fries, you should skip places like Kreuzburger (Grünberger Str. 52-53), Green Burger (Grünberger Str. 38), and Burgeramt/Frühstucksclub (Krossener Str. 22).

Vegan Pizza at Yoyo Foodworld. Photo: Milgrammer.

If you can’t resist the urge, head to the best of the bunch, Frittiersalon (Boxhagener Str. 104). Reminiscent of a 1950’s diner, the organic burgers served in this greasy spoon are big and tasty. Not to be missed are the house-made potato chips and the diverse, house-made sauces. Vegetarian Wurst is also on the menu.

Meatless meals

Vegans and the green-minded are well served well by another set of Friedrichshain faves that specialize in politically-responsible dishes. The popular Yoyo Foodworld (Gärtner Str. 27) is dedicated to providing strict vegans with dishes that are usually verboten from their diets: Käsespätzle (cheese-covered egg noodles), gyros, schnitzels, burgers, and even banana splits. And the price is right: a vegan hot chili cheeseburger with fries and a salad is €6.99.

A few blocks away, Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56) draws the vegan masses with its P.C. version of the city’s most beloved meat-centric snack: the Döner kebab. The Imbisse (snack stand) also turns out a mean veggie burger and a meaty bio burger.

A Soviet-era Avenue: Karl Marx Allee

Karl Marx Allee's Soviet facades. Photo by Mishkabear.

After lunching, wrap up your tour of Friedrichshain with a visit to the Stalinist-era Karl Marx Allee (at the northern end of Warschauer Str., between Alexanderplatz and Frankfurter Allee).

A showcase of monumental Communist architecture, including eight-story, “wedding cake” apartment buildings sheathed in creamy white tiles, the wide boulevard was built by the Soviets shortly after World War II to impress the west. In addition to hosting government-sanctioned marches, it also hosted a brutally-put down demonstration by workers on June 17, 1953.

After staring up at the 2,620-feet-high, neo-classical towers marking the Allee’s eastern end, meander west, past chipping, graffiti-covered facades, funky movie theaters, and retro store fronts, some of which still bear their funky 1950’s shop signs. The apartment buildings west of the Weberwiese U-bahn stop are the most impressive as they’ve been wonderfully restored to their Stalinist/neoclassical glory.

When you’ve had enough, rest your feet and grab a coffee at the historic Café Sybille (Karl Marx Allee 72), which includes an exhibit about the Berlin Wall. A hipper option across the street, Ehrenburg Café (Karl Marx Allee 103) is named after Ilya Ehrenburg, a Soviet-Jewish journalist.

About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli had stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg before settling (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.

We’ve been big fans of Mike’s website for a long time, both for its thoughtful articles and talented writing, as well as its eye-catching photography and snazzy design.

But enough about us! Read on to learn a little more about Mike and the story behind Vagabondish.

1. Can you tell us about yourself and your website, Vagabondish.com?

As a web geek with a real passion for travel, I needed a way to chronicle my travels online. Naturally, a blog was the way to go. So, three years ago this month (October 2006), Vagabondish.com was born.

It was nothing more than a personal playground at the time - a place to post travel-related photos, articles, advice and links that I enjoyed. I had no intention at the time of making it a full-time gig. Three years on, we’re still posting great travel tips, news and advice, but with a fantastic crew of writers, regular contributors and avid readers.

2. What’s the best travel advice you’ve ever received?

Well, there are two bits really. Both could well be applied to life as a whole, but served me well as motivation to follow my passion for travel. The first is paraphrased from Tim Ferriss:

“The traffic lights of life are never going to all be green.”

The “location independent” lifestyle niche has grown tremendously in the past three years and really exploded in the past twelve months. More and more “wage slaves” and corporate 9-to-5′ers are wondering if a life of perpetual travel is possible. Many question whether it’s a viable long-term lifestyle path.

The fact is: if you’re passionate about travel and seeing the world, do it! Like deciding to buy a house or have a child, there’s never going to be a perfect time when all the planets align just right for you to take the plunge.

… and also from Tim:

“People will choose unhappiness over uncertainty.”

It’s sad, but often true. I’ve corresponded with literally thousands of travelers - many are perpetual vagabonds with no real place to call “home” - during my years as editor of Vagabondish. Not a single one has ever expressed regret for leaving their previous trappings - work, house, fiancé, etc. - behind. Not one.

Incidentally, it’s part of the reason that this post - Just Dive In! How to Travel (and Live) Without Regret - was one of our all-time reader favorites.

3. Tell us about your favorite place to stay in Europe. Where is it and what made it special?

My favorite stays have always been with locals. Earlier this year, I scored a fantastic private loft space with a couple in Berlin’s Mitte borough via Craigslist. The entire 10-night stay cost less than two nights at a mid-range hotel. And of course, the best way to interact with locals and get an authentic taste of your surroundings is to live with them.

4. When and where is your next trip, and how are you doing it on the cheap?

My girlfriend and I are headed to Key West for the New Year’s celebration. We’ll be staying with family and a few friends to keep it on the cheap.

This of course isn’t always a possibility. But I’ve realized just how easy it is to make new friendships online. If you know you’ll be traveling to a specific destination, check out Couchsurfing and even Twitter (use http://search.twitter.com and search for folks Twittering about your destination). Even if you can’t find someone to host you, you’ll no doubt make the acquaintance of great, knowledgeable and friendly locals who are often much obliged to share a drink and show you around their hometown.

Now get ready for the “speed round”:

Favorite airport - Right here in Providence, Rhode Island. It’s small, but it’s home.

Aisle or window - Always the window.

Chicken, fish, meat or veggie - Gotta be fish! If it’s from the sea, it’s for me.

1 item you can’t travel without - Laptop. C’mon, I’m a travel website editor.

Most under-rated landmark in Europe - Glendalough in County Wicklow, Ireland. It’s staggeringly beautiful - a quintessential Irish landscape.

Thanks for chatting with us, Mike! And keep up the good work with Vagabondish!

Tórshavn, Faroe Islands - not part of the EU! Photo © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

Okay, so you think you’ve got Europe absolutely sussed out? You recognize the difference between an ogonek and an umlaut, know your pelmeni from your pierogi, and can map with precision the boundaries between the six time zones that straddle the European mainland? (Yes, there really are six separate one-hour time zones on the mainland alone).

So tell us: Which countries use the euro? And, for that matter, which are a part of the European Union?

A Europe of shifting alliances

European Union member states.

Even the most studied Europhile stumbles when it comes to unraveling membership of Europe’s various transnational clubs like Schengen, the Eurozone and the European Union. Some European countries (like France and Germany) are members of all three. Other European countries (like Croatia and the Faroe Islands) are not full members of any of the three alliances, yet their European credentials are undisputed.

Membership in one of the three does not presuppose, nor is it contingent upon, membership of any other of the three. For example, Iceland is neither in the European Union nor the Eurozone, yet it is a member of Schengen. Ditto Switzerland and Norway.

But these matters are fabulously complicated. After all, while Norway proper is in Schengen, the islands of the Svalbard archipelago (north of the Norwegian mainland) are not part of the Schengen area.

Currency matters: The euro

And what of the euro? When the wise men and women at the European Central Bank (ECB) meet to juggle interest rates and ponder macroeconomic policy options, the impacts of their deliberations are felt way beyond the sixteen nations of the Eurozone proper. That’s because the euro is the standard currency for many other countries and territories: from Montenegro in the Balkans to tiny island communities in the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean, and off Canada’s east coast.

The Eurozone.

It is perfectly possible for countries like Andorra and Kosovo to use the euro without being officially part of the Eurozone – though Andorra would dearly like to mint its own euro coins and is presently in negotiation with the ECB to secure that privilege (in just the way that Monaco and San Marino have done).

Widen the net to include the various currencies around the world that are fixed (more or less permanently) to the euro, and we see that the ECB’s economic decisions reverberate around the globe. There are two dozen non-Eurozone countries that use currencies pegged to the euro, among them Bosnia, Bulgaria, Estonia, the Cape Verde Islands, Chad, and Senegal.

Now that we’ve managed to wrap our heads around this tangled mess, it is worth noting that every now and again we run across places we would expect to be in the Eurozone but turn out not to be – and vice versa. For example, the German village of Büsingen (on the Rhine) and the north Italian village of Campione d’Italia both use the Swiss franc as their principal currency (although in truth the euro is widely accepted in both communities, too).

The British situation

And so to Britain. A half-hearted member of the EU, not a full member of Schengen (viz. party to aspects of the Schengen Agreement but outside the Schengen area for visa and immigration purposes) and definitely outside the Eurozone.

But wait! Do not the British Sovereign Base Areas on Cyprus use the euro rather than the pound sterling as their official currency? They do indeed.

The banknotes in our wallets may be a mark of our identity, but in the complex world of European affairs, sometimes a territory’s choice of currency may be more a question of pragmatism than political allegiance. Liechtenstein is no less independent merely because it uses the Swiss franc – just as Ecuador and East Timor remain sovereign countries despite using dollar banknotes.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. Their writing and photography regularly feature in various European media. You can see the table of contents of the latest issue of hidden europe online.

Drink your coffee with the locals at the bar. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris–

Being “frugalicious” whilst painting the City of Light red need not be a chore.  In fact, I often find in Paris that the very act of pinching pennies actually enhances the overall experience (said not in a Polly Anna sort of way, I assure you!).

Here are five of my favorite tricks for saving a buck, er, euro. In the words of my grandmother Helen J. Wentz, Cheapos, “It all adds up!”

1.  Stand up, stand up!

Order (”take”) your morning (or anytime) café while standing at the bar in the café. Not only will this give you an opportunity to get down and gossipy with the locals and the apron-clad wait staff, but it’s also cheaper!

Amount saved: About one euro per espresso. Bar perspective with the in-crowd?  Priceless.

2. Solid as a rock

Someone is "fidèle" to Yves Rocher.

Who says money can’t buy you love? Certainly not the French. Repeat business is highly valued and often rewarded with a “carte de fidélité” (fidelity card). Restaurants, shops, and even hotels give them out to their patrons as a way of saying thanks and “come again soon.”

Looking very much like a business card, each time you make a purchase, the card gets hand-stamped or punched, soon adding up to super discounts or delicious prizes! Didn’t receive one? Just ask. It will be taken as a compliment, and a signal that you’ll be back. (Tip: Often the cards don’t have expiration dates, and can be used for years.)

Amount saved: 10% to 30% off transactions. Solid friendships and the proof of commitment? Priceless.

3.  ”Un carnet, s’il vous plait!” (A 10-pack, please!)

For the love of sanity, don’t buy your Metro tickets (good for both the bus and Metro) one or two at a time. Purchase a “carnet” (10-pack)!  With a thick stack of tickets in your hot little hand, you’ll not only save about €5 over the single-ticket price, but you’ll also be able to focus on more pressing matters like shopping, museums, and most importantly, food!

Amount saved: €5 per 10 rides. Skipping the line of ticket buyers? Priceless.

4.  Picnique with a view

Order take-out from a restaurant. ”Avez-vous des plats pour emporter?” (”Do you have take-out dishes?”) is your key phrase. 

All restaurants, of course, don’t offer this option, but often they do, especially ethnic restaurants (Asian, African, Mediterranean, and so on). You’ll save 10-15% off the total bill, since there’s no service fees or value-added taxes.

Amount saved: 10-15% off total bill. Slurping Pad Thai (à la “Lady and the Tramp” style) with your beloved on the steps of Sacre Coeur with the city twinkling below? At twilight? You guessed it… Priceless.

5.  Make that beer ”un demi”

Double your pleasure, but not the bill.  Beer lovers, take heed: Often the total cost of two short 25 cl beers is less expensive than one tall 50 cl beer. Stop scratching your head and order up “un demi” straight away. “Je voudrais un demi, s’il vous plaît” are the magic words.

Amount saved: About one euro per beer. Unwinding with two demi’s of pale ale after a long day of sight seeing? Ab-so-sipping-lutely priceless!

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.