Okay, it kinda looks like we’re doing this contest bi-monthly, since the March BOTM took so long …. Here’s the score: during the entire month of May, you may post your bike for the contest (one entry per person, please). The voting will begin June 1st through June 25th. After June 25th, the winning bike will be posted for several days on the thread (and maybe if you sweet-talk Nick, he’ll make up some cool picture with your bike in it or something for your signature). Remember, no PhotoShopping, just several good pics of your ride. Collages of various shots are welcome.

Put ‘em up, guys - show us what you got!

Well I think I will start a thread on my X18 starting from the day I pulled it out of the crate. Uncrating was fairly easy and straight foreward. Now the fun begins. First I gave the bike a thourough assesment of assembled "quality" and like so many of you comment, it was pathetic at best !
Right off the bat i’m finding cross threaded body mount screws, plastic components that were barely "snug" .

Next moving on to getting it started. I know many of you suggested swapping the oil, but for my initial quick break IMO. the std oil is fine. I’ll put a few easy hrs on the engine, then dump the OEM stuff . Initially my X18 would start no problem but would not idle. So after searching I found the idle screw, and after about 2 turns, now we’re good I have an idle. My engine has a slight surge to the idle, and i’m thinking the carb is jetted "EPA" lean, so I might open the carb up and see what the jets look like. Right now the first step is to put the engine through a few "heat cycles" I believe heat cycling the engine tempers the internal components for longer life. People will argue this comment, but i’ve been doing this for many years with excellent engine relibility following new or rebuilt running. Here’s a few pics for those of you that didn’t follow my "pulled trigger" thread;

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Like I said in the title, it really is boring and tedious. It’s my least favorite part of the process. Sanding comes in a distant second to this.

So, I got a sticker meant to go over a car’s tail lights. It’s a flexible plastic that’s not too flimsy.

I was going to cut this, but I got to looking and found the backing had imprint marks from when the decal was made. Hmm… I have a mo’betterer idea. So, I got out the exacto knife and went to cutting. Not bad. I ended up laying down my blue tape on the body pieces and held the stencil in place as I went over it with a marker.

And here’s the general idea of what I’m going for. This design will be painted in red and then the whole thing will be covered in a clear coat with high metallic content.

Now, to get back to playing with sharp objects while my wife is out shopping with her friends…….

Picked up a new motor and decided to mod it up a bit before I dropped it into the bike. There was an issue with the air filter I had to deal with as well so figured I would do what I could to it.
I am assuming its a 39cc sold as 49cc engine as the bottom 4 fins are present (dam LOL). Oh well bag it out then do a crank and head kit.
The front of the carb was taper bored from 19mm down to 12.3mm at the slide. Note the notch removed from the choke plate to accomodate the new opening size. The rear was bored to 16.48mm. In both cases leaving the slide area alone. I added the boost bottle tap to the back of the carb as well. The petcock mod was done with belzona ceramic epoxy, drilled through and oil sanded smooth. The float and float bowl were polished and deburred to avoid hangup and a 70 main jet installed. I matched the intake to the rear of the carb. I then filled the shallows of the intake with belzona ceramic epoxy and oil sanded it smooth and flush as the sealing surface around the hole was very thin now. Behind that is carbon reeds with the tripple stage mod done with the original reed and ground down reed stops. On the inlet to the carb i modded the cheap plastic ufo filter mount to a offset v-stack stye by making a paper mold, pouring it full of liquid epoxy and filing and sanding followed up with the mod to the air filter to clear the cross brace on this frame. I used the 6 fin lightened flywheel I did and added an aluminum pull start that I widened the notch for the wire out and epoxied a section of slit hose to protect the wires from getting messed up. The plug wire and boot were also replaced. I plan on fitting the modded stock exhaust to it and see how it works out. A three bearing 7 tooth is supposedly on its way for it (dam HKMoto LOL)

I am not expecting anything to great out of it till I crap it out but at least everything will be ready for a fc crank and a boosted head kit LOL.

F2-M3_MOTOR001.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR002.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR003.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR004.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR005.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR006.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR007.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR008.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR009.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR010.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR011.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR012.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR013.JPGF2-M3_MOTOR014.JPGDSCN0942.jpgDSCN0943.jpgDSCN0887.JPG

i got a little bored of this bike, so $120 later, look what i have got! i spent half the day traveling to HF and the other half building.

opinions on how its coming along????? it is going fast.

here is the 43cc next to the 6.5 hp.

here is the frame cut because i needed to lengthen it in order to fit the engine.

here is a complete mock up

here is a mock up without the seat and fairings

this thing is going to be awesome!

components so far:

HF 6.5 OHV engine
razor electric dirt bike frame (modified)
750lb rear shock
72t rear sprocket, 18" rear wheel
12t hillard 3/4 bore clutch
mountain bike handlebars (coming)
mountain bike brake lever/ gas lever
bling bling grips :auto:
home made foot pegs (coming)

Alright people that’s right post’em up.They can be pics or vids of any of your homemade motorized machines.Big or small rc or not i’m talking scratch built……
This spark it when i saw Cam2’s pic of his rc buggy he made in another thread.

So post up CAM2. I guess i’ll show some rc stuff cuase i love rc stuff.LOL
Here’s a pic of a scratch built 1/10 nitro drag car i did.I’ll put up more detailed pics of it as i find them.I sold this car awhile back on ebay, i should have kept it.LOL
I also did this 1/10 nitro dune buggy It’s fully detailed right down to gas’brake and clutch pedals plus a shifter and functional seatbelts.I also sold this one a wild back on ebay.

I built these waaaaayyyyy back in the daays.Oooo also the drag car had a .21 nitro engine with a 2speed tranny rearwheel drive.The rearend i used sorta looked like a ford 9” rearend.The only thing these car was goodd for was lighting up the tires.LOL But it would take off like the fullsized street car pulling to one side when you got hard on the power.LOL

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"The Rat" (a work in progress)

Background: The Rat originally started off as a stock half-fairing 47cc Cagllari/Daytona. Purchased on craigslist.com for $80.00, previous owner had apparently used the bike as an offroad dirt bike. Front fairing was missing, seat and tank section was cracked in half behind tank and at end of seat - entire rear section missing. So begins the tale of "The Rat-Cag"……

I decided when I bought this bike that I was not going to restore it to original condition. Instead, the plan was to play with it, see what fun and goofy things I could modify on the bike, yet still have a perfectly functional bike to ride. Below is a list of the modifications currently on this bike, with more to come. *** NOTE: this is NOT meant to be a serious race bike - this bike was built "redneck-style" for fun.**

SPECIFICATIONS AND MODIFICATIONS:
Gas Tank:
Hard-mounted to frame with brackets. Gas cap has been modified with a breather filter made from an in-tank gas filter. Gas tank was originally hard-mounted to frame using a hose clamp, which is visible in earlier pictures of the bike.
Seat:
Seat is glued down on piece of sheet metal, cut to fit shape of seat. Seat is supported by section of cut-down office keyboard track, and bolted to frame using the original holes.
Air cleaner:
Air cleaner is an Altoids Chocolate-Covered Cinnamon Mints box. The box has been drilled multiple times to allow air flow, and a piece of window screen wrapped in pantyhose protects the carburetor venturi. Oh, and the red gasket in the picture is from a toilet tank. (A second air cleaner, not on the bike, is made from an electric socket junction box.)
Gas filter:
A cut-down Volkswagon gasoline filter makes sure that the carburetor stays clean.
Muffler/exhaust:
An empty DuPont paint spraycan was modified for the exhaust by cutting off the bottom of the can. Tinsnips were used to enlarge the opening on the top of the can to fit over the front ring of the stock muffler, while the bottom of the can was cut to accept the stock muffler end cap. It is held on by the original spring and cotter pin.
Footpegs:
Footpegs are Mongoose BMX stunt pegs mounted on tapped original studs. This was a previous owner modification.
MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES:
Dremel wrench killswitch cover: A spare wrench was bent and screwed down under the original-style killswitch, so I wouldn’t accidentally bump it while riding.

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	BMX Mongoose pegs.JPG (94.5 KB, 16 views)
	Custom seat, wire mesh, gas tank.JPG (101.9 KB, 19 views)
	DuPont spraycan muffler 01.JPG (79.5 KB, 23 views)
	DuPont spraycan muffler 02.JPG (79.6 KB, 17 views)
	DuPont spraycan muffler 03, Altoids air filter.JPG (52.0 KB, 15 views)
	Engine mounting strap and BMX Mongoose peg.JPG (94.9 KB, 11 views)
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	Street Freeks logo 01.JPG (80.4 KB, 17 views)
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Well to start off, when I first got the bike the first thing that I needed to modify or upgrade was the pull start. After about 30-40 times of yanking on it the cord just ripped right out. So, when I went to the hardware store to replace it I obviously wanted something of higher quality, along with better bolts.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build027.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build028.jpg

Then next in line was that annoying rubber petcock piece that was causing all kind of problems. So I modified the petcock and fabricated an aluminum piece to replace the white nob.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build018.jpg
And while I was doing that I replaced the fuel lines, filter, and installed my own shut off.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build026.jpg
Ahh, much better now. With all of that done along with just about every bolt I could find to replace on the bike with a high quality bolt and LocTite on every thing I could get my hands on made a world of difference as far as reliability. Now on to the modding and tuning.

The first thing I did performance oriented was add BW triple stage reeds. Which was a good investment. Made throttle response much more crisp and made the top end power much smoother.

Next was to give the bike more air and fuel to get more power. So I installed a HP filter, did some carb porting, and rejetted up to .68mm from the stock .64mm. Which gave me very good gains in the whole rpm range, but most noticeable from low to mid rpm range.
Here are before and after pics of carb porting.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…tedcarb001.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…tedcarb006.jpg
Hp filter with .68 jet installed
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…rfilter003.jpg

Most recently I have added a 3rd bearing support gearbox with 7tooth pinion and High tension clutch springs to improve launch speed.
Here are some pics of the gearbox installation.
Bike with stock gearbox.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build004.jpg
New gear box and comparison of the two.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build001.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build005.jpg
New High tension clutch springs.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build002.jpg
Process of putting new springs on. First pic is clutch with old springs. Then clutch after removal of old springs. Then new springs installed.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build006.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build007.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build009.jpg

After installation of the clutch springs. I then installed my new gearbox.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build015.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build016.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build020.jpg

After installing the springs and getting a chance to ride the bike. I noticed a big difference on how the bike launches. It builds quite a few more rpm’s {i’m guessing at least a few thousand} before the clutch engages. Allowing much better take off.
Another thing I also did recently was remove the muffler packing on my exhaust. I don’t care how loud my bike is, I think the louder the better. But my point of mentioning this is because after I removed it I had to increase my idle speed to get a stable idle. Like the exhaust packing restricts air flow. I have never heard anyone else say they have done the same thing, so that’s something to think about.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build011.jpg
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/x…A2build012.jpg
Much more mod’s to come. So I will keep posting.

Basically a cateye w/ a Harbor Freight 2.5hp (REALLLY WISH I DID THE 6.5HP)

The hardest part was finding an easy way to do a sprocket set up. I went through a couple set ups but ended up doing a single #35 chain w/ 60t rear sprocket and 11t up front.

If anyone needs some help feel free to PM me if you have a project as well or post up here

Top speed is rather disappointing, according to my iphones speedo it says 39.4 mph (which is rather accurate)

But by far way more reliable then the stocker 2 stroke. And by far not as loud.

this is just a mock up far from done . i have rode it a few times and it is dificult to ride with that much power . at any speed it pulls the wheels up because you sit up straight up un like a normal bike that has you leaning forward .these pics are about a month old . it will have different plastic that has a better looking shape .its all un painted and just put together enough to see how the frame will hold up . i have about 1300$ in it at the moment. enjoy and any ideas you may have please let them fly.

50cc polini
standard crank
3 shoe kevlar shoes
19mm dell
grc 50cc pipe
digatron tach dt-30
dwt wheels vega rain tires
ducati coil
bzm rad
bzm pump
custom + 6” axle
custom spindles
6/68 bzm gears

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