Having the gas tank out of the way while working on your SV650 will make routine maintenance even easier — spark plugs, anyone? It certainly helped during my recent electrical wiring adventure. For some reason I expected that removing the tank would be a difficult task, but it turned out to be pretty simple.

Step 0: The Lay of the Land

Here are the areas of the bike we’ll be dealing with in this article:

Step 1: Gather the Required Tools and Materials

Tools:

• ratchet wrench
• 6in extension
• 10mm socket
• small vice grips or similar clamping tool
• pliers
• old towel or other soft cloth, at least a few feet square
• shop towels or rags
• 4mm and 6mm hex bits and bit driver, or allen wrenches

Optional: a second set of hands is extremely helpful during the removal process, as the tank can be unwieldy — especially if it has any fuel in it.

Step 2: Remove the Seat

As always, the first step to SV650 maintenance is removing the seat. Use the 4mm hex (allen) bit to loosen the 2 bolts on the plastic trim covers below the seat. There’s a cover on each side of the bike. Remove both covers and set them aside.

A 4mm hex bit will loosen the bolt on the trim cover.

Then, use the same 4mm bit to loosen the 2 tank bolts. I like to use a T handle bit driver to reach these bolts.

My trusty T handle bit driver.

Whatever you do, don’t drop your bit around this part of the bike!

Next, use the 6mm hex bit to loosen the 2 bolts holding down the seat. There’s one on each side of the bike.

A 6mm hex bit will loosen the bolts on both sides of the seat.

Once the seat is loose, lift it up by the edge closest to the gas tank, then pull the seat forward until it slides free.

Step 3: Disconnect Fittings Under the Tank

There are three fittings under the tank that need to be disconnected: the fuel line, an electrical connector, and a hose fitting the purpose of which I’m not sure of. Here’s a picture of the fittings and their locations:

First, use the pliers to loosen the clamp on the fitting in the lower left corner of the picture. Pull the clamp upwards until you feel it clear the raised flange at the end of the fitting. Then, pull the hose free.

The electrical fitting in the lower right side of the picture is easy to disconnect. Don’t forget to unhook the little clip holding the connector together.

Removing the fuel line is slightly tricky. Use the vice grips to clamp off the fuel line a few inches from the connection fitting. Now would be a good time to spread a rag or some shop towels below the fitting to catch any gas should it escape while you disconnect the fuel line. Use the pliers to pinch the gray clips together, then pull the fuel line free.

Next, prop up the tank and locate the drain and vent tubes. They originate from the right side of the tank. I’ve highlighted them here with green lines:

Look down near the exhaust pipe and find the flexible clamp holding the tubes near the engine. Loosen the clamp and free the tubes. Grab the tubes near the top of the frame and gently pull upwards until the tubes come free. You’ll see that one of the tubes is connected to a plastic T fitting. Disconnect the tube connected to the shortest “leg” of the T.

Step 4: Remove Hinge Bolt

The final step is to remove the bolt holding the gas tank to its hinge. Stand on the right side of the bike and locate the bolt. It’s in a recess just below the bolt that secures the seat to the frame.

And a closer look:

Use the socket wrench and extension to loosen the bolt. Once it’s good and loose, pull it straight back toward you until it comes completely free of the bike.

If you have a towel or cloth, spread it over where you’ll be resting the tank after you remove it. This is where having a friend comes in handy. Lift the tank as if it were propped open, then pull it straight up until it clears the hinge. Watch for the aluminum tube inside the hinge pivot. The gas tank bolt runs through this tube to secure the tank to the hinge, but the tube can slide out unexpectedly. Once the tank is free, move it to the resting spot, but keep an eye on the fuel fitting for any leakage. If the tank is close to empty, no fuel should leak out of the fitting, but on a fuller tank, you may want to tilt the tank slightly by placing a short block under one edge for extra security.

That’s all there is to it!

Putting the Tank Back On

Simply reverse the steps. Hold the gas tank as if it were propped open, then fit the tank back into the hinge. Don’t forget the aluminum tube! Push the gas tank bolt through and tighten. Keep the tank propped open and route the vent and drain tubes back to their original positions. Reconnect the three fittings. Lower the tank and put the seat back on.

Related Posts:

• On Removing the Warning Sticker From an SV650’s Gas Tank
• How to Clean/Replace the Air Filter in Your SV650
• The Right Grade of Gas For Your SV650

Here are colorized wiring diagrams for nearly every model of SV650 ever made.

• SV650 naked non-ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)
• SV650 naked ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)
• SV650S non-ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)
• SV650S ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)
• SV650 (both naked and S) K3, K4, K5, K6 (2003-2006)
• SV650 naked K1 and K2 (2001-2002)
• SV650S K2 (2002)
• SV650S K1 (2001)
• SV650 1999-2000

SV650 naked non-ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650 naked ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650S non-ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650S ABS K7 and K8 (2007-2008)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650 (both naked and S) K3, K4, K5, K6 (2003-2006)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650 naked K1 and K2 (2001-2002)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650S K2 (2002)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650S K1 (2001)

Click to see the full size image.

SV650 1999-2000

Click to see the full size image.

Thank you to Spierings for posting these up on SVRider.

Related Posts:

• SV650 2003+ Color Wiring Diagram
• I Liked Mine So Much, I Decided to Get a Spare
• How to Clean/Replace the Air Filter in Your SV650

After one week, one new tri-color LED, one new set of heated grips, and one new Gerbing’s temperature controller, I’ve finally finished transferring all the electrical accessories from my old SV to the new one. Hmm, now that I’ve typed out the list of new things I had to buy to get this project finished, it occurs to me that “transferring” may not be the right word anymore.

Previously on the blog, I was waiting for a new heated grip kit to arrive. The bike came with a Dual Star heated grip kit installed. I decided to give the Dual Stars another try despite the original set being defective.

I also wanted to install a voltmeter because I know I’m getting pretty close to reaching the SV’s charging system capacity limit. Tedder tipped me off to the Signal Dynamics Heads-Up Single Voltage Indicator. It’s very simple: just a single LED that turns green, amber, and red to indicate what’s going on with the charging system.

The whole point of this project was to install my electrical accessories the Right Way, i.e. with a quality fuseblock and as much wiring as practical run within looms. The fuseblock is an Eastern Beaver Power Center 8:

The fuseblock comes with its own wiring harness, including a relay, fuse, and ring terminals for the battery. The build quality is impeccable. My wiring skill pales in comparison, but it’s always good to have something to aspire to. The installation process was very straightforward. If you have any experience with fuseblocks, or relay/distribution block setups, you probably won’t even need to consult the instructions.

Once the fuseblock was in place, I started running the wiring. I had an advantage because I knew how everything connected together due to previous experience with my old SV. I guess I can look back at the old SV as a trial run.

For example, I wanted a cleaner look for the wires coming off the switch that controls my Hyper-white running lights. You can see the switch in this photo:

All those small wires leading from the switch are kind of gnarly. I wrapped them with electrical tape on my old bike, but that really looked terrible. Here’s how I did it this time:

I think it’s a big improvement. I also trimmed the wires down and added a connector at the end. The power and ground leads from the hot grips also run to this connector (though they’re not present in the above photo). Having a connector midstream allows me to disconnect my accessories if I ever need to — a decision that paid dividends when the defective heated grips developed a short circuit that turned them into hand incinerators!

Here’s the connector matched with its counterpart on the main wiring loom:

If you look closely at the left of the photo, you can see the wires exiting a plastic loom. This loom runs back to approximately the midpoint of the frame, where my Gerbing’s temperature controller box is mounted. The loom tucks neatly inside the frame, though I have one odd spot where the heated grips connect to the power connector from the temperature controller:

The power plugs are too big to fit within the loom, so I routed the wires to allow the plugs to emerge from the loom just enough for the connection. This works fine as long as you place zip ties at the exit and entry points for the wires.

Cleaning up the wiring resulted in a noticeably neater battery compartment:

And here’s a photo of what used to be a particularly troublesome spot. I used to have a rat’s nest of 8 or 9 wires running through this junction, which is less than ideal because it’s very close to where the gas tank pivots when it’s lifted. The danger for pinched wires here is extreme.

The wires in this loom run back to the fuseblock, which I placed in the compartment under the passenger seat.

I decided against writing a more detailed guide because there are far too many variables involved in this kind of project. Hopefully, this will give you some ideas for your own wiring setups.

But What About The Agony?

Three agonies, actually:

A short circuit in the original set of heated grips, resolved by removing the defective set and replacing with a new kit. The only thing that wasn’t my fault!

My ham-fisted attempts to push the voltmeter’s LED into the flush mount holder which broke one wire lead to the LED. Of course it had to break clean with the surface of the LED, preventing me from re-soldering it. I really wanted to avoid having to order another voltmeter, so I ran out and bought a new tri-color LED, hoping that it would work. It did, and it even came with a better holder for the mount.

Somehow, my Gerbing’s temperature controller blew one of its circuits, specifically the circuit for my heated jacket. This, of course, presented itself after I had put everything back together on the bike and while I was riding down to Eugene on a chilly 37°F morning. I didn’t make it to Eugene. Came home, opened the bike back up, started testing, and tracked it down to the controller box itself. I said several choice words, none of which would be printable anywhere but Jack Riepe’s blog.

This last agony was the worst, because it meant that I had to undo almost all the work I just finished. I went out and bought a new controller and spent most of Sunday experiencing accessory wiring deja-vu.

And The Ecstasy?

That one’s easy: the first ride with the running lights running, the voltmeter volting, and my heated gear heating. It’s my baby, better than new!

Related Posts:

• General Disarray
• Wiring a Gerbing’s Permanent Dual Temp Controller to SPI Grip Heaters
• To-Do List For the New SV

What is good, of course, is a matter of opinion. However, I’ve been on Teh Internets a long time — hell, I remember when Amazon.com had a river in its logo and a gray background — and I’ve a pretty good idea of what I like. In this post, I’ll share some of the traits that my favorite motorcycle blogs have in common.

Provide a Full-Text RSS Feed

Great blogs provide an RSS feed of the full text of their content, not just an excerpt. Excerpts pretty much waste my time as a reader. For example, this is what I see in my feed reader when a blog doesn’t take advantage of full text:

If you’re only giving me excerpts, every single one of your posts better begin with the best damn opening sentence ever — or I’m going to skip them by. I know, I know, a full text feed feels like you’re giving your content away. You want the visits. You want the hits. Oh, the humanity!

Think for a moment why you’re blogging in the first place. Are you in it to make money? Are you in it to share your experiences? To provide useful information? If readers are your goal, it doesn’t matter how you present the content, and you definitely don’t want to make your readers jump through hoops to read your stuff. And your stuff is awesome, right?

Here’s a great article on the impact that switching to full-text RSS feeds had on Daring Fireball, a major tech blog: Attention is the Real Resource

Post Regularly

You don’t have to post multiple times a day, or even every day. In fact, I suggest that you don’t post every day unless your blog is focused on providing news and time-sensitive events. I feel this way for two reasons: one, writer’s block and burnout are very real (and the #1 reason why great blogs die) and two, spacing your posts out gives folks a chance to read and comment on them.

Early in this blog’s lifetime, I experimented with posting new content every day. It didn’t take long before I saw the downsides. It’s hard to generate thousands of words on a daily basis in order to keep up with a rigorous posting schedule, which led directly to the worst thing of all: the quality of my content started to suffer. Even my sucky content didn’t keep the die-hard commenters from doing their thing (you guys are troopers!), but I noticed that I didn’t get many comments on the posts made quickly in succession.

After some stat analysis, I learned that I get most of my comments during two time periods: early in the morning (starting at 7am EST) and early in the evening (around 5 or 6 EST). Imagine that!

That’s when I switched to a roughly Monday-Wednesday-Friday posting schedule. This schedule provides a full 24 hour period between posts and gives readers plenty of opportunity to let their thoughts be heard while helping me keep my sanity. Everybody wins!

If M-W-F is still too intimidating, try for a weekly or every-other-week posting schedule. The more regular your schedule, the better your chances of having visitors come back to your blog. Keep them coming back enough times and they’ll become regulars, and best of all, subscribers.

Be Unique

How are you different than the thousands of other moto-bloggers out there? And yes, there are thousands of moto-blogs now, with more being created every day.

Here’s an example of something different:

By now it was 8pm, and the piers were beginning to wind up for the night. I threw my leg over “Fireballs” and buttoned up my mesh armor. I was about to turn the key, when a voice that sounded like hot honey on a pancake said, “What kind of bike is that?”

The source of the voice was a stunningly beautiful hottie who had the kind of ass that I would wear as a hat for any occasion. And she was accompanied by another bucket of glowing rivets, who had the kind of smile that could illuminate the dark side of the moon. — Jack Riepe, Riding To The Ocean… And Dancing With The Painted Whore

Jack Riepe has one of the most unique voices in the entire blogosphere. His work is instantly recognizable, extremely memorable, and incredibly entertaining. It certainly helps that he’s one hell of a writer. But you don’t have to be a professional writer in order to have a unique blog.

Dom Chang is known for his photo-heavy posts, often combining current pictures with historical photos. Here’s an example of a classic “Dom” post:

Look how small I had to shrink that screenshot of his photolicious post in order to keep the size reasonable! I’m sure it helps that he happens to live in one of the most photogenic parts of the US, and I’m in awe of his ability to keep cranking out lengthy posts with alarming regularity. But you don’t have to take hundreds of photos to be unique, either.

Fuzz from fuzzygalore.com proudly embraces being a girlie girl who just so happens to ride a bad-ass Speed Triple. She also has a thing for taking pictures of her bike parked in front of giant objects like this:

Now that’s something I don’t see every day! Fuzz’s sense of humor and joy of discovery shines in every one of her posts. But you don’t have to live near a gigantic wiener to be unique…

What these three blogs have in common is that they’re reflections of the people behind the keyboards, people who love riding motorcycles who are also being themselves.

Stay On Topic

It’s very tempting to start straying from one’s motorcycling roots once you have a regular audience of readers. Of course, if it’s your blog, you can post whatever you like on it. Just be aware that every off-topic post is playing with fire: you might gain a few readers, but you might lose a bunch too.

I used to read a blog written by a rider who was rather conservative. Now, I’m about the last person who could be called a social conservative, but I enjoy reading about different people and different perspectives. I considered the occasional jibes at “those damn liberals” as the price of admission to get to his good stuff, namely his ride reports and pictures. Perhaps it was the election, perhaps he got cut off by a cager flying an Obama sticker, but one day his blog started to be less about motorcycling and more about political ranting. After yet another inflammatory post about gay marriage, I had had enough. This wasn’t the same blog I had enjoyed before, and it was time for me to say good-bye.

If the focus of your blog is motorcycling, try to keep the off-topic posts to a minimum. If you’re posting off-topic content more than 25% of the time, it might be a hint that your focus is beginning to shift, and that you need to re-evaluate what you’re trying to convey with your blog.

Which leads me to my final point…

Cultivate a Community

I want readers who are the kind of people I’d like to have a beer with. In fact, the readers of this blog have an open invitation to share a beer with me if they happen to pass through Corvallis. Some of them have even taken me up on it!

After three years of writing this blog, I’ve found that the way to attract awesome readers is to talk with them, not at them. Comments are the lifeblood of your blog, and they need to be tended like a garden. Plant the seeds in your posts, weed out the spam and the trolls, and water the shoots of conversation by responding to those who leave comments.

I may not have thousands of subscribers like those big motorcycle news blogs, but I have great readers, many of whom contribute insightful (and witty, and humorous, and informative) comments to the ongoing dialogue. They’re the kind of folks I could share a beer with. I like that.

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• bolty.net’s Favorite Motorcycle Links
• RSS For Motorcyclists: Tips and Tricks

I’ve now had the distinct pleasure of removing the gas tank warning sticker from two different SV650 motorcycles. It’s the motorcycle equivalent of that new car smell.

This sticker is a particular nemesis of mine. Suzuki must be serious about delivering this message because they designed the sticker to be resistant to casual fingernail picking. The adhesive is stickier than a 2 year old’s face after an ice cream party.

The secret to removing the sticker without marring the finish of the gas tank is to apply heat. Any basic hair dryer will do. Hold the business end of the dryer about 1 inch from the sticker and heat for 45 seconds or so. This will soften the adhesive enough so you can begin to peel the edge of the sticker up. Of course, the sticker will also disintegrate into an inordinate number of tiny fragments while you do so. Alternate 45 second blasts with the hair dryer with peeling sessions and you’ll have the sticker fragments gone in no time.

The adhesive residue left behind can be removed with Goo Gone, Goof Off, or a similar product.

Related Posts:

• How to Remove the Gas Tank on Your SV650
• The Right Grade of Gas For Your SV650
• Seven Bucks to Fill My Tank

Man, I spent what felt like the entire weekend working on the SV, re-installing and re-wiring all my electrical accessories, and it’s still not finished! I certainly won’t be able to ride it to work this morning.

My friend Don Weber offered to help supervise the operation if I brought the bike to his shop. So I packed up all my accessories on Saturday morning and rode up to Albany. After situating myself in a corner of his shop, I got to work.

The new fuseblock was a snap to install, but it took me forever to build the wiring harness for my accessories. I had to solder so many connections that I started getting high from all the magic smoke. Running wire through a loom is more difficult than it looks.

I should have known better, but I disregarded an electrical gremlin and it came back to bite me. After connecting my Gerbing’s temperature controller to the heated grips on the bike, we noticed that the grips were getting hot even when the switch was off. So we started troubleshooting, backtracking through all the connections and eliminating the stuff that worked. All of a sudden, the grips started working properly. Odd, but I chalked it up to a bad connection that might have been resolved by our troubleshooting.

I wasn’t able to finalize the wiring 100% that day so I put the bike together into a ride-able state and headed home. I immediately noticed that the grips were warm and getting hotter, and I hadn’t even turned the switch on. Argh! Gremlin! The grips got so hot after a few miles that I had to pull over to let them cool down. Luckily, one of my additions was a nifty connector between the accessories and the powered fuseblock. I pulled the connector, which cut the power to the grips so I could ride home without setting my hands on fire.

I spent Sunday afternoon tracking down the problem. I checked, re-checked, double and triple checked my wiring between the battery to the fuseblock, the fuseblock to the Gerbing’s controller, and the controller to the heated grips. Everything checked out. My multimeter read 0.0 volts on the power lead to the grips, yet when I hooked the same lead to the grips, the grips were getting hot.

I finally enlisted a friend to help me track down the problem. As we stepped through the circuit, it became clear that there was a short somewhere in the grips. We finally traced it to the wiring on the clutch side heater element. This explains why the previous owner experienced occasional popped fuses while running the grips. My wiring efforts must have jostled the wires enough to push the short circuit from an intermittent occurrence to one that happened 100% of the time.

So now I’m waiting on a new heated grip kit to arrive so I can finally wrap this project up. It’s been a lot of work, but the difference from the exposed and unkempt wiring on my old SV to the neat wiring looms on the new bike is night and day.

Related Posts:

• The Agony and The Ecstasy: Cleaner Electrical Accessory Wiring
• To-Do List For the New SV
• Wiring a Gerbing’s Permanent Dual Temp Controller to SPI Grip Heaters

Dear fellow bloggers,

I know you’re trying to build readership, build community, build a monument to your own awesomeness, whatever. But please stop leaving drive-by comments on my blog for the sole purpose of pimping your own site. It’s bloody impolite. You could at least try to fake some interest.

Hugs and kisses,
-Stacy

PS: Spam will never see the light of day ’round these parts, so if you’re trying to leave a pimptacular comment and it never shows up, now you know why.

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• Total Loss

My new SV650 might be a dead ringer for the one I had previously, but there are still a few things I need to do to get this bike close to where I had mine before.

• Install my Hyperlite brake lights
• Install my new Galfer stainless steel front and rear brake lines
• Install the GSX-R front and rear turn signals
• Install a new Eastern Beaver fuseblock — once it gets here from Japan
• Install my Hyperlite running lights
• Install my ugly, but waterproof, switch mount
• Verify the existing heated grip wiring is OK and connect them to my Gerbing’s temperature controller
• Fix my hacked-upon Gerbings power cable (or order a new one if it can’t be salvaged)

One of the benefits of blogging is having a record of all the stuff you’ve done to your bike!

I plan to do most of the electrical work at the same time once the new fuseblock arrives. Despite my best efforts, the wiring for all the accessories on the old SV ended up a little ratty. Now that I have everything I intend to install on the bike ready to go, I can create a “real” wiring harness that will result in a much cleaner installation.

Filed under “nice-to-have”:

• Better looking mirrors. The ones off a Street Triple look promising — good thing I have a guinea pig so I can try before I buy!
• Upgraded suspension
• New exhaust

Related Posts:

• General Disarray
• The Agony and The Ecstasy: Cleaner Electrical Accessory Wiring
• Installing Hyper-white Running Lights on an SV650

This is the best summary of the SV650 I’ve come across so far:

…late model SV650s (plural, not the SV650S) turn over fairly often, being the favorites of fickle 20-somethings, budget racers, tuners & modders, beginners, girls, and short people. And, apparently, practical commuters klinging to their un-spent youth, who want something with a cool engine note and some passing torque and a cool trellis frame. And a reputation for fun in the twisties. Smaller, lighter, they share the same basic engine as the V-Strom, but with a +5HP edge in power, and more torque higher in the rev range. SV650s are all over craigslist and can be had in the mid-$3,000’s. That leaves a lot more cash lying around for extras. Or food and tuition.

– by Don M at braincrust

Here’s a cool thing:

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Monday dawned crisp and clear and full of promise. I walked over to the Denny’s next door for some grub. One of the best things about being a gal riding solo is how easy it is to Own a Room — all I have to do is wear my motorcycle gear and step inside any eatery in a small town.

I was fat, happy, and on the road by 8am. Did I mention that the weather was perfect?

Miracle #5: The Weather

Those of us who live in the PNW are fortunate enough to be able to ride year round. I’m certainly no stranger to riding in the rain, but I ain’t going to say no to dry weather either. The schizophrenic weather forecast wasn’t much help, but if you can bank on one thing when planning a ride on the coast during February, you can bank on it being chilly and wet. Pack your rain gear!

This was pretty much how the weather turned out around the time of my trip:

Wednesday: rain
Thursday: drizzle
Friday: spittin’ kittens
Saturday: partly cloudy
Sunday: mostly sunny
Monday: glorious sunshine
Tueday: pouring down rain
Wednesday: rain

I somehow managed to catch the only three day window of dry weather in a two week time span.

Anyway, Day 3 was the last day of my trip, and the only day where I didn’t have something holding my nose to the grindstone to keep me moving. I could dawdle my way up the coast, and so I did, and took a bunch more pictures too.

At my first stop, I caught my new bike making moves on this big boat:

What a hussy!

At a turnoff just south of Gold Beach, OR:

Gold Beach is the home of the famous Barnacle Bistro, which serves the best fish-n-chips I’ve ever had. Unfortunately, I arrived too early to enjoy some tasty food, but I’ll be back in June for the Gone Coastal ADV gathering. Perhaps you’ll join us?

I thought I was safe after the incident with the boat, but apparently anything’s fair game to this SV:

This one’s for fuzzygalore!

A little while later, I ran into some road construction.

I may have been stuck in traffic, but that didn’t stop me from checking my email and posting an update to twitter — thanks, modern technology! Then, I looked over to the left and said, “Hey, that rock looks like a whale!”

Indeed it does!

And here’s a picture of some famous lighthouse:

At this stop, I ran into some friendly Canadians — and really, are there any other kind? — who offered to take my picture:

Their car had BC plates so I asked them if they were fleeing from the Olympics. They laughed and said yes, they were in a way, but that their friends back in Vancouver had reported that the atmosphere was very festive. I’m sure it was. I mean, all you need is a box of Timbits and you’ve got yourself an instant party. Or was that a 12 pack of Molson?

I continued to mosey my way north until I reached this bridge, which is my very favorite bridge ever:

Bonus points if you know where it is.

Then back on the road for a little ways, when I just had to get a picture of this:

It’s not every day that you see a 20 foot tall Japanese man offering you a tray of sushi.

I was about 50 miles from home and smelling the barn now. I pulled into my driveway a little after 4:30pm. I was home, and I had an SV650 in my garage. All was right in the world.

Related Posts:

• Riding the New Bike Home, Day 2
• Riding the New Bike Home, Day 1
• “Did You Ride Your Bike In Today?”