ikhlasridzuanphotography

Kursus Asas Fotografi Digital INSKEN 5-9 July 2010

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 07:45:00 +0000

Seramai 14 peserta dari seluruh WP telah menghadiri dan mengikuti kursus asas fotografi dan editing yang berlangsung di Prescot Inn, Medan Tuanku Kuala Lumpur dengan jayanya.

Semau para peserta telah melahirkan rasa gembira dapat menimba ilmu walaupun dalam keadaan waktu yang agak singkat.

Bagi saya yang mewakili Redzuan Fotomedia, saya mengucapkan ribuan terima kasih kepada pihak MITI dan para peserta yang telah bertungkus lumus belajar siang dan malam bagi menjayakan kursus ini.

Kualiti Imejan Dalam Digital Fotografi.

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Mon, 04 May 2009 07:33:00 +0000

Kebiasaan nya bila kita hendak memulakan sesi penggambaran, salah satu yang ditekankan dalam digital fotografi ialah bagaimana hendak memahami kualiti sesuatu imej yang bakal dirakam kelak.

Kita sering terperangkap dengan maksud kualiti imej seperti penggunaan file besar atau menggunakan file RAW mahupun file TIFT. Saya telah banyak bertanya dengan mereka yang arif dalam maksud kualiti imejan.

Faktor diatas adalah sebahagian sahaja yang perlu kita ketahui. Tetapi yang sebenarnya kualiti imejan adalah berdasarkan apa yang yang kita hendak rakam itu benar benar mendapt maksud yang dikehendakki? Tidak ada gunanya kalau kita menggunakan file yang besar tetapi imejan kita di boleh diguna pakai sama ada pelanggan mahupun dalam zon fotografi itu sendiri.

Kualiti imejan banyak bergantung kepada kepada, tema, latarbelakang, sejarah, kesan dan telus. selebih dari itu barulah masuk dalam hal teknikal dalam kamera. Fahami menu biar beratus menu hadir dalam sesebuah kamera, kita mestilah selongkar seberapa banyak yang boleh.

Antara menu teknikal kualiti imejan dalam fotografi digital yang wajib kita ketahui ialah pengawalan exposer,ISO, White Balance,File, Noise,Imej optima,Aperture.

Kehadiran Digital Fotografi di Malaysia

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Mon, 04 May 2009 05:16:00 +0000

Dulu ketika saya belajar fotografi, kira2 29 tahun yang lalu, saya telah diberitahu oleh salah seorang guru saya yang berasal dari Jepun bernama Chiaki Makino dimana beliau menyatakan kepada saya, suatu hari nanti tidak mustahil seluruh rakyat Malaysia akan memiliki sebuah kamera digital dalam satu famili.

Kini apa yang beliau nyatakan telah terjadi.Sifu saya sering memberitahu kepada saya, teknologi dan maklumat tentang fotografi ini kan terus berkembang seperti yang akan berlaku di negara Eropah dan negara beliau sendiri.

Ketika saya menghadiri seminar konvension antarabangsa yang dianjurkan oleh MIMOS 1995 MIMOS baru sahaja berusia setahun jagung. Dalam kenyataan MIMOS, negara kita dilanda dunia digital dijangka dalam tahun 2005,dalam kenyataan MIMOS pada tahun 2005,tiada lagi rakyat Malaysia akan tidak mengetahui apa itu digital.Ternyata benar apa yang di warwarkan oleh pihak MIMOS dalam konvesyen tersebut. Apa yang hendak saya maklumkan betapa dunia fotografi digital juga seiring pantas dengan apa yang dibentangkan dalam konvension tersebut.

Saya mengenali dunia fotografi digital pada tahun 1994 ketika saya melawat pameran fotografi terbesar di German yang dikenali sebagai Photokina, sila lawat website www.photokina.de,ketika diperkenalkan fotografi genre baru ini, saya cukup kagum dengan kepantasan serta kemudahan pembaikkan pulih yang pantas ketika itu.

Balik dari pameran tersebut,saya terus membeli kamera Mamiya 645Pro digital Back dalam tahun 1995, ketika itu, belum ada lagi mana-mana jurufoto ditanah air mempunyai kamera digital tersebut. Saya beli adalah untuk masa depan dan persediaan saya menghadapi dunia digital.

Dalam tahun 1998 , kegawatan ekonomi melanda, memaksa saya menjual semua alatan kamera saya, barangan lampu studio dan hanya sebuah kamera sahaja yang saya pertahan sehingga kini iaitu Mamiya 6x7.

Tahun 2001,ekonomi mula nampak pulih, saya telah membeli sebuah kamera Nikon D100, agak mahal ketika itu harga nya RM 8,600 body sahaja. Memori kad pula 256 MB berharga RM 400 kalau tidak silap. Yang paling mengharukan , ketika itu saya masih tidak mempunyai rakan atau sahabat yang boleh menterjemahkan menu menu dalam kamera kompouter.

Terus terang, saya memang lemah dalam pengetahuan perkomputeran, langsung tidak pernah terlintas mendalami ilmu komputer ketika itu. Maka terkebil kebilah lah saya seorang diri,bagaimanapun terpaksa mengagahkan juga mempelajari semua menu yang terkandung kamera.

Dalam kesusahan saya mempelajari semua kelebihan dan kelemahan kamera digital, dari semua segi, desakkan kuat dari bekas bekas peserta kursus saya memaksa saya membuka kelas fotografi digital..anda bayangkan dengan ilmu yang tidak seberapa ketika itu saya akhirnya mengalah dengan permintaan bekas bekas peserta kursus tersebut.

Akhirnya saya , saya berjaya membuka kelas Digital fotografi yang pertama di sebuah hotel yang terkemuka di Genting Highland pada tahun 2002 yang dihadiri lebih 15 orang peserta dari seluruh negeri dan untuk pengetahuan anda semua, kelas ini adalah kelas Digital Fotografi yang pertama diadakan di Malaysia.

Learning Basic Camera Menus part3

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Fri, 01 May 2009 02:23:00 +0000

ISO

Where does ISO factor in all this? Remember, we used the garden hose metaphor to understand aperture/shutter speed combination required for correct exposure: small hose, longer time required to fill the bucket; to use a shorter time to fill the bucket, we needed to switch to a larger hose.

But what if we do not have a larger hose? We then increase the speed water flows thru the hose. We use the speed of water flow as a metaphor for ISO. Using the smaller hose, if we could increase the speed of water flow, we would then be able to close the tap earlier and still end up with a full bucket! Similarly, increase the ISO, and you've increased the sensitivity of the image sensor -- i.e. it now needs less light to register an image.

This is not a technically accurate metaphor since when we increase the ISO, we do not increase the speed of light!!! Instead, using a speaker metaphor, we 'crank up the sound volume'. In practical effect though, it looks like we increased the amount of light falling on the sensor, hence our 'speed water flows thru the hose' metaphor.

Suppose we meter a correct exposure at 1/30 sec., F8, at ISO 100. By increasing the ISO to 200, we can now use either a faster shutter speed at F8, or use a smaller aperture at 1/30 sec. and still obtain correct exposure. In our example above where we reached the limit of our camera's aperture range, we could have used a higher ISO to allow us to use 1/250 sec at F2.8.

Sounds great, isn't it? So, why don't we just use the highest ISO all the time? The answer is the dreaded 'noise'. The image sensor does not suddenly becomes more sensitive just because you tell it so by dialing in a higher ISO; it gains that increase in sensitivity at the cost of image quality [due to noise].

Think of an image sensor as comprised of a matrix of photosites, with a photo sensor at each photosite capturing light for one pixel of information. Say, each photosite captures one pixel of info. When you dial in a higher ISO, you are increasing the sensitivity of the image sensor. Unfortunately the image sensor now captures not only more light signal but also more noise (any signal not generated by the light from your subject). It is the ratio of light Signal to Noise (S/N ratio) that determines the noise in your image. The more light signal (as opposed to noise) your image sensor is able to capture, the less noise in your image. Generally, the smaller the image sensor the worse the noise is. Most consumer digital cameras suffer from noise problems at high ISOs. Some Digital SLR cameras have practically no noise at the higher ISOs; they, of course, use a rather large image sensor.

Cameras are often advertised with high ISO capability with the promise that this will allow you to capture low light images without using flash. But in cameras with tiny sensors, the use of high ISOs generates lots of noise in the pictures. To reduce the high amount of noise generated at high ISOs, cameras have noise reduction technology built-in. This is no panacea since the way noise reduction works is to smooth out the pixels, leading to loss of fine image detail.

The take away from this discussion is that you would want to always use a small ISO for the best image quality. In low light situations, you may have no choice but to use a higher ISO to allow you to capture a correctly exposed picture, but be aware that this comes at the price of increased noise (and hence decreased image quality). If you are not happy with the amount of noise in your pictures, consider moving up to a DSLR that has a low noise high ISO capability.

Learning Basic Camera Menus part 2

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Fri, 01 May 2009 02:18:00 +0000

Correct Exposure?

When you take a picture with your camera set on Auto mode, you are delegating responsibility for determining the correct exposure to the camera. Depending on the 'brain' (or programmed chip) inside your camera, the result may be pleasing or not to your satisfaction. But before you blame the camera for your lousy pictures, it pays to understand a bit what goes on behind the scenes when you press the shutter release button. In this article, we are going to look at what 'correct exposure' means.

A correctly exposed image means that the right amount of light has exposed the image sensor. There are basically two ways your camera can ensure that: 1) open or close the aperture (by making the hole of the iris larger or smaller; or, as is becoming more and more common in point-and-shoot digicams, by using a neutral density filter to restrict the amount of light reaching the image sensor); 2) by deciding how long to leave the shutter open. A third way that we will also briefly look at is 3) by adjusting the ISO (basically boosting the light signal).
F2.8
F4
F5.6
F8

When you (or your camera) uses a larger aperture (e.g. F2.8), the hole of the iris is larger and more light reaches the image sensor. Conversely, using a smaller aperture (e.g. F8) means that the hole of the iris is smaller and less light reaches the image sensor.

When a fast shutter speed is used (e.g. 1/1,000 sec.), the image sensor is exposed for only that small amount of time (i.e. 1/1,000 sec.). Conversely, when a slow shutter speed is used (e.g. 1/30 sec.; some cameras allow slow shutter speeds up to 30 sec. or more), the image sensor is exposed for that longer amount of time.
F8
1/30

Obtaining correct exposure is a setting combination of aperture and shutter speed. For example, your camera's light meter may have measured a need for an aperture of F8 at a shutter speed of 1/30 sec. If you press the shutter release button now, your camera will close up the iris to an aperture of F8 and open the shutter for only 1/30 sec. to obtain a correctly exposed picture. The amount of light that squeezes through that opening for that amount of time goes to expose the image sensor.

Complications

However, here is where the complications show up. If you are taking a picture of a serene and calm landscape, a setting of F8 at 1/30 sec. may be perfect! The small aperture gives you good depth of field ensuring that objects near and far are in focus. The slow shutter speed may be a problem if you are not using a tripod. A slow shutter speed means that any camera shake (even ever so slightly) will result in some blurring of the final image. A perfectly exposed blurred image!

Two things you've learned right here: 1) a small aperture increases depth of field; 2) a slow shutter speed requires a tripod, or other ways to hold the camera steady (e.g. by bracing yourself against something).

But, what if you are trying to take a picture of your son flying a kite in the park? A slow shutter speed will not only result in a blurred image because of camera shake, but your son is moving fast across the camera and the resulting image is a perfectly exposed blurred image of your son. To 'freeze' fast action, you need to use a fast shutter speed. So, move the scene mode dial to 'Sports/Action' mode or, if your camera allows Shutter Priority mode, select that mode and set a shutter speed of 1/250 sec. To still obtain correct exposure, you also need to open up the aperture now.

Remember, you selected a faster shutter speed which means that the image sensor will now be exposed for a shorter time. If you don't open up the aperture but keep F8, then the image sensor receives less light (you maintained the same hole opening, but closed the shutter sooner), and the resulting image will be underexposed. In this case, you would have 'frozen' the action, but unexposed the image.

Shifting Aperture and Shutter Speed

F2.8
F4
F5.6
F8
1/250
1/125
1/60
1/30

'Program Shift'is the term used to shift the aperture/shutter speed combination in tandem and still obtain correct exposure. As is illustrated above, if 1/30 sec. at F8 gives a correct exposure, then the three other aperture/shutter speed combinations shown also give the same correct exposure.

It is easy to understand when you consider that each aperture shift from F2.8 to F8 halves the amount of light reaching the image sensor (or, conversely, each aperture shift from F8 to F2.8 doubles the amount of light reaching the image sensor). Each shutter speed shift from 1/250s to 1/30s doubles the amount of light reaching the image sensor (or, conversely, each shutter speed shift from 1/30s to 1/250s halves the amount of light reaching the image sensor).
So, to maintain correct exposure, if you halve the one, you need to double the other. For example, if you halve the shutter speed from 1/30s to 1/60s, then you need to double the aperture from F8 to F5.6. Another way to look at this (depending on whether your main purpose is to shift aperture or shutter speed): double the aperture from F8 to F5.6, and you need to halve the shutter speed from 1/30s to 1/60s.

So the converse is also true, i.e. if you double the one you need to halve the other. In fact, say it anyway you like and the fact remains that if you halve the one (aperture or shutter speed), you'll need to double the other (shutter speed or aperture), And, if you double the one (aperture or shutter speed), you'll need to halve the other (shutter speed or aperture).

Learning Basic Camera Menus

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Fri, 01 May 2009 02:05:00 +0000

Learning Menus:

Exposure bracketing :

is a simple technique professional photographers use to ensure they properly expose their pictures, especially in challenging lighting situations.
When you expose for a scene, your camera's light meter will select an aperture / shutter speed combination that it believes will give a properly exposed picture.

Exposure bracketing means that you take two more pictures: one slightly under-exposed (usually by dialing in a negative exposure compensation, say -1/3EV), and the second one slightly over-exposed (usually by dialing in a positive exposure compensation, say +1/3EV), again according to your camera's light meter.

The reason you do this is because the camera might have been 'deceived' by the light (too much or too little) available and your main subject may be over- or under-exposed. By taking these three shots, you are making sure that if this were ever the case, then you would have properly compensated for it.

As an example, say you are taking a scene where there is an abundance of light around your main subject (for example, at the beach on a sunny day, or surrounded by snow). In this case, using Weighted-Average metering, your camera might be 'deceived' by the abundance of light and expose for it by closing down the aperture and/or using a faster shuter speed (assuming ISO is constant), with the result that the main subject might be under-exposed. By taking an extra shot at a slight over-exposure, you would in fact be over-exposing the surroundings, but properly exposing the main subject.

Another example would be the case where the surrounding might be too dark, and the camera exposes for the lack of light by either opening up the aperture and/or using a slower shutter speed (assuming ISO is constant), then the main subject might be over-exposed. By taking an extra shot at a slight under-exposure, you would in fact be under-exposing the surroundings, but properly exposing the main subject.

Now, most digital cameras have auto exposure bracketing (AEB), meaning that if you select that option before taking your shot, the camera will automatically take three shots for you: one which it thinks it has perfectly exposed; a second one sightly under-exposed; and the third one slightly over-exposed. The amount of under- and over-exposure usually defaults to -1/3EV and +1/3EV, but can also sometimes to specified in SETUP, e.g. you may want to use -1EV and +1EV instead.

When should you use exposure bracketing? Anytime you feel the scene is a challenging one (too much highlights or shadows) as far as lighting is concerned -- e.g. sunsets are usually better taken slightly under-exposed so use exposure bracketing there -- or whenever you want to be sure you don't improperly expose a fabulous shot that you may not get the chance to go back and take again.

Remember, you are not using film anymore, so there are really no wasted shots (unless you are severely constrained by the size of your storage media).

Perlantikkan Sebagai Pakar Industri Negara

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 15:42:00 +0000

Redzuan Fotomedia telah dilantikan oleh Kementerian Sumber Manusia sebagai Pakar Industri Negara yang berkuatkuasa pada tahun ini sehingga tahun 2010 didalam bidang Visual Art Fotografi dimana Ikhlas Ridzuan dipilih sebagai salah seorang Penasihat Panel bagi jawatan tersebut.

KURSUS 20 MINIT-PHOTOEDUCATE 2009

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 17:56:00 +0000

RFM dengan kerjasama pelbagai pihak dalam industri fotografi akan mengadakan satu bentuk kursus yang belum pernah diadakan dinegara.

RFM dengan idea terbaru ini akan menampilkan satu bentuk kursus dimana para peserta kan mendapat memilih antara beberapa ilmu dan petua/tip dalam masa 20 minit dari pakar2 dalam semua bidang fotografi dan multimedia.

Gabungan ini pasti akan menjadikan dunia maklumat fotografi tanahair lebih rancak dan mendapat sokongan yang penuh dari anda semua.

Tunggu berita selanjutnya......!!!

KURSUS FOTOGRAFI ASAS DAN DIGITAL DIBAWAH PROGRAM MEMBASMIAN KEMISKINAN ANJURAN MeCD DAN GIATMARA 22-27 FEB 2009

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 07:39:00 +0000

Sekali lagi pihak RFM dipilih untuk menjadi Technology Provider untuk khas di Bawah Pembasmian Kemiskinan bagi tujuan menjana Ekonomi untuk para peserta kursus yang menyertai program ini.

Selama 5 hari kursus ini dijalankan dan dihadiri oleh seramai 30 orang peserta dari kawasan Selangor dan Wilayah Persekutuan.

Antara yang ditekankan dalam kursus ini ialah bagaimana memulakan perniagaan dengan hanya memiliki sebuah kamera yang dibekalkan oleh pihak GiatMara.

Bagi para peserta saya ucapkan selamat berjaya!

PENUKARAN TARIKH KURSUS FOTOGRAFI KEKWA

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Tue, 22 Apr 2008 01:27:00 +0000

Di maklumkan pihak Kementerian Kesenian dan Warisan KeKWa telah menunda tarikh kursus kepada 27hb-30hb April ini . Bagaimana puntempat dan jadual masih tidak berubah.

Kursus Fotografi Asas Digital NIOS

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Wed, 09 Apr 2008 06:47:00 +0000

RFM ingin memaklumkan akan mengadakan kursus Asas Digital selama 4 hari di Jabatan Keselamatan Dan Kesihatan Pekerja (NIOS), Bangi pada 5-8hb Mei ini.

Kursus Asas Digital gaya Berkumpulan KeKwa

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Wed, 09 Apr 2008 06:42:00 +0000

RFM dengan kerjasama Kementerian Warisan Dan Kesenian (KeKWa) akan menganjurkan kursus Asas Fotografi di Melaka pada 23-26 April ini. Antara yang menarik dalam kursus ini, RFM berbangga dapat menjemput seorang pakar studio yang berpengalaman untuk membimbing kelas studio lighting serta Adobe Photoshop.

Inilah satu pendekatan baru dalam RFM untuk mempertengahkan bakat2 baru tenaga pengajar dalam bidang pengajaran fotografi.

Kursus Fotografi

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Tue, 08 Apr 2008 04:44:00 +0000

RFM PHOTOMASTER dan REDZUAN FOTOMEDIA adalah sebuah syarikat yang mengendalikan kursus fotografi konvensional dan digital jangka pendek serta perkhidmatan mengambil gambar professional terkenal sejak tahun 1976 lagi.

Untuk mengikuti kursus intensif bagi sepanjang tahun ini sila semak jadual kalendar bulan 2009 bermula jam 9.00-5 petang.Tempat adalah terhad kepada 10 orang.

Bayaran dikenakan sebanya RM2,000.00 .

Antara module pelajaran yang disediakan:

1.Perkembangan Fotografi Terkini - Digital Fotografi-CMOS,CCD,-Penstoran Media- Penggunaan dan Pembacaan Menu Kamera

Pegenalan Penggunaan Lampu Studio-Teknik Pencahayaan dan Pengiraan Nisbah Cahaya-Garisan dan Bentuk Fotografi serta kesan warna.

2.Human Interest,kebudayaan,Kandid,kawalan zon fokus,kawalan mutu dedahan cahaya.

3.Indoor- Praktikal Potrait dengan lighting studio 1- jarak lensa/ukuran subjek(framming),komposisi,latarbelakang,mood.senicahayanisbah ukuran cahaya potrait,

jenis nama2 cahaya dalam potret,kedudukkan cahaya lampu,jenis2 lampu dan pencahayaan.

4.Indoor- Praktikal table -top 11- kawalan cahaya dan exposer meter. Teknik dan kesan khas .

Silalah daftar segera dengan untuk mendapat keterangan lebih lanjut di talian 03-26920208/26920506 - (Puan Inang Ridzuan Pendaftar Kursus ) atau 019-6430091 saya sendiri Ikhlas Ridzuan.

Kursus Lanjutan Professional Fotografi DAWAMA

noreply@blogger.com (Ikhlas Ridzuan) — Tue, 08 Apr 2008 03:54:00 +0000

RFM akan mengadakan satu kursus lanjutan professional fotografi di sebuah syarikat penerbitan terkemuka di Malaysia iaitu DAWAMA. Sebuah syarikat yang menjalankan penerbitan buku2 sekolah di negara kita. Kursus ini akan dijalan selama 3 hari padat dengan praktikal bermula pada 23 hingga 25 April 2008.

Antara pelajaran baru yang diserapkan dalam module professional kali ini ialah tentang FOTO TEXT. Berdasarkan maklumat dari bekas2 pelajar yang pernah mengikut kursus ini, mereka semua berpuashati maksud pengertian nilai2 fotografi berbanding dengan hanya mengambil gambar tanpa panduan text dalam pemikiran mereka selama ini.

Foto text ini akan di bimbing oleh seorang pakar dan arif dalam ilmu penulisan skrip. Beliau merupakan pemenang anugerah Penulis Skrip Terbaik Seri Angkasa tahun 2006.

Untuk mendapatkan sebarang maklumat tentang kursus kursus yang RFM jalankan silalah hubungi kami di talian 03-26920208 setiap hari kecuali hari Ahad