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Replace Kitchen or Bathroom Faucet

2011-03-07T18:51:00.002-07:00

Is your old Sink Faucet ugly or does it get in the way when there is a sink full of dishes? Feel Refreshed in Your Kitchen or Bathroom with a new Sink Faucet.

Step One: Choose a Faucet
Select a faucet that requires the same number of openings in the sink that your current faucet has, and the same spacing between those openings.

If it doesnt, you will NOT need to cut into the sheetrock of the wall but may have to drill a hole in the top on the sink counter. This is in case you do not already have a spray hose and or a soap pump and want one on the side.

Note: For easier installation, instead of using the supply hoses that come with the faucet, consider buying flexible stainless steel supply hoses. These are more reliable and lasts years.

Step Two: Disconnect the Supply Hose and Faucets
It is smart to always wear eye protection when working on Home Remodeling Projects.

Under the sink: turn the handles of the two shut-off valves clockwise as far as you can. If there are no shut-off valves, or if you can't turn them, turn off the water where it comes into the house.

Turn on the faucets to drain water from the hoses. Use a pipe wrench to remove the hoses from the copper tailpipes under each faucet.

Use a Basin Wrench to unscrew the nuts under the existing faucets and spout — if the nuts are stuck, use penetrating oil to loosen them. Lift off the faucets and spout, and then use a Putty Knife to scrape off any Plumber’s Putty or Caulk from the top of the sink.

Step Three: Install the New Spout and Faucets
Follow the instructions that came with the faucet. They give specific details for installing the spout and handles. The following are general instructions.

Insert the faucets and spout from above the sink, using plumbers putty or silicone to seal them to the surface if they don't have a sealing gasket.

Under the sink, loosely install the gaskets, washers, nuts and other hardware for the spout and faucets. Align them above the sink and then tighten them securely.

Step Four: Install the Supply Hoses
Clockwise, tightly wrap the threaded fittings at the end of the copper tube under the faucets with Teflon tape — the tape helps form a tight seal.
Use two wrenches to attach the hoses to the faucets (for a two-valve faucet) or connector adapter (for a one-valve faucet): one to hold the copper tube so it doesn't break off the faucet, and another to tighten the nut.

Place a bucket under the sink to catch leaks. Remove the aerator from the end of the spout — if you can't unscrew it by hand, wrap a rag around it and turn it with an adjustable wrench. Open the water shutoffs and turn on the faucets for several minutes to clear out any debris. Reattach the aerator.

Step Five: Remove the Old Drain Assembly
Remove old drain assembly, including the sink stopper, the flange (the collar in the sink's drain opening), the drain body (the pipe just under the drain opening) and its locknut, the lift rod that opens and closes the stopper, and the parts that attach the lift rod to the stopper.

Use the putty knife to scrape old putty and silicone from the drain opening.

Step Six: Install the New Drain Assembly
Place a ring of plumbers putty or silicone sealant around the drain opening and insert the flange from above the sink.

Under the sink, attach the drain body to the flange and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the lock nut to secure the connection. Make sure the flange is tightly seated in the drain hole and remove excess sealant.

Step Seven: Install the Stopper
Drop the lift rod through the hole in the faucet and then, under the sink, attach it to the lift rod strap (the plastic or metal strip with a lot of holes along its length) with the thumb screw or other hardware that comes with the faucet.
Above the sink, insert the stopper into the drain. Under the sink, insert the stopper's control rod horizontally through the hole in the side of the drain body and then into the hole at the base of the stopper.

Thread the end of the control rod through one hole on the spring clip, through one of the holes in the lift rod strap and then through the other hole in the spring clip.

Use the lift rod to open and close the strainer; if it doesn't open fully and close tightly, thread the control rod through a different hole in the lift rod strap.

Step Eight: Make sure Everything Works Properly
After all the other steps have been completed and all the joints are tightened sufficiently, turn on the shut-off valves. On the faucet, turn the cold water on first, slowly, just barely open it and then if the water hose or pipes jump, wait for them to quit jumping and then turn the cold water on full blast. This will help prevent any air bubbles that may in the plumbing system from causing the water to splatter everywhere when you use the water. Repeat steps on the hot water side.

Supplies:
• Adjustable wrench • Basin wrench • Bucket
• Narrow putty knife • Penetrating oil • Pipe wrench
• Plumber’s putty • Putty knife • Rag
• Protective eye wear • Teflon tape • Wrenches
• Plumber's putty or silicone sealant • Faucet set

Using Durarock with Mesh Tape

2009-10-06T16:27:00.002-06:00

When using Durarock, you can use the same mud as you do any other Sheetrock, whether it is regular Sheetrock, Durarock, Water Rock or any other kind of Plasterboard.

Q: I have durarock in my bathtub/shower area and moisture resistant rock on the rest of the bathroom wall. How do I mud and tape the place between the two different materials? Do I need a different type of mud? I am using mesh tape for the joints.

Water Rock which is the same as Moisture Rock which is the greenboard. No special mud is required or best when using greenboard to Durarock. You don’t have to use any special type of mud when meshing up either.

There are two different types of mesh. Blue Mesh and Yellow Mesh. The Yellow Mesh is a little heavier than the Blue Mesh. The Blue Mesh is used mainly for doing inside corners. If you want to use Mesh Tape, Sheetrockers Secrets Recommends the Yellow Mesh for this type of project as it is stickier on the back side than the Blue Mesh.

When you mix the mud for the mesh, mix it as you normally would but the mesh will take more mud as the little squares need to be filled in.
After you apply the mud to the mesh, wipe it down evenly but not hard with a mudding knife and get it as smooth as possible. This will help with cut down the drying time and sanding.

The only thing I would do different is not use mesh tape at all, I would use regular sheetrock tape. The reason for this is that tape gives. Even after it dries, as the house settles, the tape moves and it will eventually crack. This gives way to mold and you may have to replace it with regular sheetrock tape later on.

Moldy Sheetrock may cause Grave Illness

2009-10-01T19:03:00.003-06:00

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2009-04-18T21:53:00.004-06:00

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2009-04-01T19:21:00.001-06:00

Installing Bullnose Corners

2008-08-23T16:34:00.000-06:00

When Installing Bullnose Cornerbead, you may find that the corners will not butt up right.

For instance, where the wall corner and doorway meet up. There is no special measurement that is needed but there is a special piece that is needed.

You need to get a plastic corner piece for all corners, this of course will mean that your measurements for the piece of cornerbead for the top of the doorway and the wall piece will need to be shortened to accommodate the corner piece(s). You may want to apply the corner pieces first and then measure the cornerbead pieces.

Keep in mind that whether you use metal or plastic bullnose cornerbead, the corner pieces will be plastic. It will not make a difference, and when the project is finished you will have a nice clean professional look.

Rounded corner piece and Square corner piece.

Supplement to Installing the Corner Bead

2008-07-06T23:05:00.000-06:00

How do I get Bubbles and Wrinkles out of My Corner Bead?

It seems we have had a few concerns from people installing the corner bead on their projects. This is a normal complaint from most anyone who is a first timer at installing corner bead. Don't worry, you can install it like a pro.

First and foremost, NEVER use Screws!
Screws cause more bubbles and wrinkles in the corner bead and WILL inevitably leave you unsatisfied with the finished project. The reason for this is that whether you use metal corner bead or plastic, screws can twist in too tight and rip through the corner bead.

If you use a screw gun the screws will almost always go in too tight. If you want your corner bead project to take you weeks to finish, then you can use the old hand and screwdriver method therefore, you can be really careful not to screw the screws in too tight. One of my favorite sayings: save yourself a dime, do it right the first time.

Nails are the best thing when using corner bead
Everyone has their own likes and dislikes. We at Sheetrockers Secrets prefer to use only metal corner bead with nails. The best nails to use are 1 x 1/8 inch sheetrock nails. We have found over the years that metal corner bead with nails is the easiest to use and makes a cleaner finish.

If I am training someone and there is a need to take the corner bead off and do it again, the piece of corner bead that is damaged cannot be reused but, it can be cut away and a good piece put in its place. I have found that metal corner bead is easiest to do this with. There is less damage to the sheetrock than if using glue and, it seems that more of the corner bead is damaged if using plastic corner bead. More oft than not, things do not need to be redone, but I dont like to be put in a position that makes unnecessary work. Who does?

So, after measuring your corner bead apply the corner bead to the corner making sure the edge of the corner bead is flush against the ceiling. Starting in the middle of the corner bead on either side, is where you want to stick your first nail. As it is the middle of your project, you may want to put a nail on the left side and the right side but it is not necessary.

You can either work upward to the ceiling or downward putting in the nails in an alternate fashion staggering the nails from one side of the corner bead to the other until you reach the top. If You get bubbles or wrinkles and cannot smooth them out while nailing, then you can just stick a nail in the stubborn bubble and it should be fine. Always start in the middle of the corner bead and work one way or the other. This allows the bubbles and wrinkles to be pushed outward as you nail.

If you are using a crimper, make sure you are using the right one.
If you are using bullnose corner bead then use a bullnose crimper. If you are using regular corner bead then use a regular crimper. See the differences in the pictures. On the right is a bullnose crimper and on the left is a regular crimper with mallet.

Also note, that if you use plastic corner bead you cannot use a crimper. This would be apparently obvious to some but to others it is not. Therefore, without any disrespect; you can only crimp metal. You cannot crimp plastic.

When applying your second piece of corner bead to the same corner, make sure they do not overlap. Make sure they butt up to each other nice and tight. This will cause less work for you in your upcoming steps of taping, mudding and sanding. And, you will much appreciate your diligence in paying attention to the little things that matter big.

Last and most importantly of all Make sure you have a double meat hoagie, chips and a beer because you will be proud of a job well done.

Installing the Corner Bead

2008-07-06T23:04:00.000-06:00

After you have hung the walls and ceilings you will need to apply the corner bead. Make sure you put the sheetrock inside all the windows and the outlets are cut out. Rasping the edges and corners off all the sheetrock hung will make applying the corner bead easier.

There are two types of corner bead that come in various lengths:
1 - Bull Nose
2 - Standard Square

There are two types of material for the two types of corner bead:
1 - plastic
2 - metal

There is no difference in how to install the plastic or metal corner bead.
Measure the corners and cut the corner bead to fit using Tin Snips. If you have a corner that is longer than the piece of corner bead and need to use more than one piece of corner bead per corner do not overlap them, “butt it up”. Put them as close together as possible and follow the instructions below as follows.

Bull Nose:There are two ways to install this type of corner bead.

1 – gluing: these are spray adhesives. The best one recommended is Corner Bead Spray Adhesive. Use according to manufacturer Instructions. Spray the adhesive on the entire inside of the corner bead. Put the corner bead on the corner and apply pressure in the middle working upward with one hand and downward with the other. Making sure there are no bumps or bubbles on the edges of the corner bead. Allowing to dry over night gives that added assurance that when mudding you know your not going to get it under the sides of the corner bead and won’t have a fix-it project to do later because the corner bead lifted.

2 – nailing: the best to use is regular sheetrock nails at an inch ¼. Put the corner bead on the corner and put one nail in the center of the corner bead on each side. Working upward first then downward put a nail in at about 2 inches apart. Make sure the edge of the corner bead does not lift. If its does, put a nail in where it is lifted. You can start mudding immediately afterward.

Standard Square: There are three ways to install this type of corner bead.

1 – gluing: ibidem

2 – nailing: ibidem

3 – crimping: Please note: you cannot crimp the plastic corner bead. Put the corner bead on the corner and put the crimper in the center first. Apply pressure to the crimper and hit it with the rubber mallet. This style pinches the corner bead to the corner by pinching both sides simultaneously. Work upward first then downward. Once it’s all crimped check for any lifting. If there is lifting crimp down the part(s) that are lifted. You can start mudding immediately afterward.

Supplies:

Corner bead plastic or metal

Rasper

Corner bead Crimper and Rubber Mattet

1-1/4” sheetrock nails

Spray Adhesive

Tool Belt

Measuring Tape

Tin Snips

Rags

Beer and Good Friends

In Our Next Edition Look for: Mudding and Taping Your Home Remodeling Project

Remodeling Your Bathroom on a Budget

2007-02-06T18:01:00.000-07:00

By Barnabas Ng

Are you like the many homeowners who would like to have your bathroom remodeled? If so, how you do plan on paying for it? Unfortunately, a large number of homeowners would like to have their bathrooms remodeled, but not everyone thinks that they can do so. The good news is that you can easily remodel your bathroom, even if you on a budget.

When it comes to bathroom remodeling on a budget, perhaps, the first thing you should do is develop yourself a budget and then a plan. You will want to know exactly how much money you can afford to spend on your next remodeling project. For instance, if you need to hire the services of a professional contractor, you need to keep the cost of doing so in mind. Also, if you would like to have your bathroom toilet replaced, you will need to examine the cost of new, replacement toilets and so on. After you have got everything planned out, you need to total the costs. If you are lucky, you will find yourself within your budget, but if not, you may just need to make a few changes.

One way that you can remodel your bathroom while on a budget is by taking everything one step at a time. If you are interested in remodeling every square inch of your bathroom, but you can’t necessarily afford to do so right now, you may want to go one project at a time. By choosing what you would like to have remodeled first, such as your bathtub, you could do that and then move on the next project, when it easier to afford the supplies and the materials needed. Where you shop for you bathroom materials may also have an impact on your budget.

When working on a budget, you will want to shop around for the best prices on bathroom supplies, fixtures, and materials. Perhaps, the easiest way to compare prices is to use the internet. With a few minutes and the click of a mouse you could easily find exactly what you need for your project, but at a relatively affordable price. It is also advised that you checkout your local home improvement stores, particularly ones that are known for having good prices. It may also be a good idea to keep an eye out for any television commercials or store fliers that advertise sales on bathroom fixtures, supplies, and remodeling materials.

Another way to stay within your budget is to do the remodeling it yourself. This may be easy if you have prior home improvement experience. If you do not have any home improvement experience, you can easily learn what you need to know. Online, you should be able to find instructions and tips on bathroom remodeling. Also, you can purchase bathroom remodeling books or how-to guides online or from most home improvement stores or bookstores.

Although it is typically expensive to remodel a bathroom, it is possible to do so while on a budget. In fact, even if you aren’t remodeling on a budget, it may still be a good idea to keep the above mentioned points in mind. Why pay more money for a bathroom remodeling project than you need to?

http://www.g8stuff.com, a place that features articles, free stuff, information product and bargains for your daily activities and hobbies.

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Clogged Drain Problem

2006-06-13T21:13:00.001-06:00

Clogged Drain Problem
If you have a clogged drain due to a piece of sheetrock stuck in it you will have a continuing problem. Over a long period of time it will eventually break down but in the course of time it is accumulating hair and other stuff which will cause the clog in the drain to worsen.

You need to pull the drain apart to get the sheetrock piece out, or at least break it up into smaller pieces if it cant be reached with a wire coat hanger.

First of all, put a bucket underneath the drain to catch any excess water while taking the drain apart.

Second, take a pair of channel lock pliers and loosen the drain pipe nuts where the u curve is on the drain pipe. There are 2 drain pipe nuts, one on each side of the u.

After taking the u shaped pipe off, look if you can see the piece of sheetrock on either side of the drain pipe.

If you can see it, try to get it with a pair of needle nose pliers or other tool that can grab it to lessen the chance of it being jammed further into the pipe.

If you cant see it, use a wire coat hanger and feel for its position. If you can feel it with the coat hanger try to fish it out. If not, try breaking it up with the coat hanger being careful not to jam it further into the pipe.

After your efforts, if you are unsuccessful at removing the piece of sheetrock or breaking it up enough to flush it out, you may need to rent a drain snake.

After your efforts, if you are successful in removing the piece of sheetrock or breaking it up enough to flush it out, put your drain back together and run water through the drain for about one minute.

Nevertheless, the best thing to do is use the following Tips and Tricks. Remember, do this at least once a week to all your drains to keep them free of crud and grime.

TIPS and TRICKS: Sprinkle baking soda in the sink basin and around the sides of the drain opening. Get about one cup of white vinegar and slowly pour it down the drain. Watch it bubble and you'll have no more trouble. Dont run the water in the drain for a while so as to let the chemical reaction of the baking soda and vinegar do its job at full strength. This will clear your drain of any left over debris and scum and save alot of money on plumbing costs.

Find out more about Clogged Drains

Ask a Sheetrocker

2006-06-13T11:17:00.000-06:00

Your questions, comments and concerns are welcome on this site. If you have a specific question or need help with a project dont hesitate to ask. We will make every effort to address the issue in a timely and proper manner. Thank you, Ask a Sheetrocker

Skill Saw With Laser Alignment

2006-06-05T22:41:00.000-06:00

Skill Saw With Laser Alignment
By Lance Winslow

One of the greatest tools to use in construction is a skill saw with a laser alignment site to make sure you make a perfect cut all the time. Your grandfather used to say; measure twice and cut once and with a skill saw with a laser alignment you can be sure that you make a perfect cut and do not waste material.

Now remember your grandfather went through the Depression and material was costly and they were always trying to save money. But now you can be just as for frugle with your materials and make sure you never waste anything by using a skill saw with a laser alignment on it. More and more tools have laser light alignment to help contractors do a better job of, but now these tools are getting inexpensive enough for the home user and they make perfect Christmas gifts for Dad to use around the house. Making a perfect cut all the time makes perfect sense.

There are several companies that sell laser aligned tools and you can get them from anybody from Snap-on-Tools to the Sears catalog. I have even noticed laser light alignment tools at Wal-Mart. You owe it to yourself to do the job right the first time and laser alignment tools will help you do just that and so I hope you will consider this in 2006.

"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lance_Winslow

Should I Sell My Home or Remodel Instead?

2006-05-23T18:31:00.000-06:00

Should I Sell My Home or Remodel Instead?
By Robert Lipply

If you moved into your home when house prices were low, thinking someday you would move on to a larger home or a home with upgraded features, you may be asking yourself a tough question. Should I sell my home or remodel? House prices have drastically increased in recent years and many people are finding that what seemed like a small jump before, could cost a huge price tag now. If your home is on a sizeable lot, has great views, and nice neighbors, you may consider staying in your home and remodeling. Many homeowners have found that putting on a large addition, updating kitchens and baths, or adding on a pool, is still more affordable than moving to a new home.

Before making any decisions, first decide on what you are looking for in your future home. More bedrooms, a larger kitchen or living area, close proximity to schools, etc. Make a list of necessities and desires. Then investigate how much homes in the neighborhoods you wish to live in, or homes of a certain size are selling for. Next, you will want to contact a contractor to give you an estimate of how much it will cost to remodel your existing home. You may find that the changes you want are not possible with your property. Building codes and zoning laws may prohibit the changes you will need to stay in your current residence.

There are a few other considerations to bear in mind. How much will your taxes increase? Insurance? Will you miss your neighbors? Do your school zones change, meaning your children may have to change schools? It is important to weigh all of the changes that moving can bring. After you have a complete picture of the cost comparison from moving to a new home or remodeling your existing home, you will need to make your final decision. Moving to a new home can be exciting, but you want to make sure you can afford to make the larger investment before you purchase that home. Sometimes you may find that with a new kitchen, or a swimming pool, you may be able to enjoy a few more years in your current home.

Bob Lipply is a top Real Estate Broker Associate in the Tampa Bay Real Estate area. He and his team have been helping families relocate to Florida and on the selling end get top dollar for their homes with great success. Lipply Real Estate also specializes in Clearwater Real Estate visit his website where you can search the MLS for up to date available homes for sale.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Lipply

Paint Thickness Measurement

2006-05-23T18:28:00.000-06:00

Paint Thickness Measurement
By Stephanie Hetu

What is paint thickness measure? Why measure the paint thickness? May be asking another question would help answer these questions - Why do you paint at all? Now, we are are aware of the usual answers such as to protect the substrate from corrosion, to make the product appealing to the eye, to make the product blend into the background or to provide a surface finish which is part of the functionality of the product.

What ever the answer is, painting a product involves cost and cost means expense. The first time around itself it is costly, not to mention the cost you would incur if you get it wrong! It can be anything, excess paint can cause the coating to crack as it dries, or if you paint a small amount then the paint may not be adequate to adequately coat the object and will require re-painting. The ability to paint thickness measurement would aid in cost saving.

Which ever way you look at it, profits will be influenced. And we are still not discussing the actual condition and functioning of the painting. This explains why paint thickness measurement is perhaps the most significant measurement that is administrated during the coatings process.

The first Elcometer gauge for paint thickness measurement was patented and introduced to the marketplace more than 60 years ago. For that reason Elcometer gauges are considered the industry’s best and that perhaps explain why it has the widest range of paint thickness gauges in the world.

You can save up to 70% of the cost of putting paint on an object, depending up on the placement of the painter. The closer the painter better saving you would have. The correct amount of wet film is applied to meet the dry film thickness specification, if the volume to solids ratio of the coating is known.

A powder coating has numerous benefits greater than a wet coating system, to put it exactly, there almost no wastage as any of the excess powder or over sprayed powder can be recycled and reused. And as there is no use of solvents you can administer tighter environmental controls of VOC emissions and legislation. Measuring the thickness of powder however, is difficult as touching it changes the powder thickness compressing it under the force.

Elcometer offers range of most sophisticated paint thickness measurement such as the simplest 'pencil-type' gauge and the non-destructive to destructive gauge.

Get more information about gauge and home improvement at http://www.gauge-expert.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephanie_Hetu

Smoke Detectors are Now Required by Law!

2006-03-17T00:28:00.000-07:00

Smoke Detectors are Now Required by Law!
By Gil Strachan

By now, everyone should have at least one smoke detector somewhere in the home; and most folks have at least one on every level, including the basement.

But did you know...

* Pushing the test button only verifies that there is battery (or AC) power present. It DOES NOT PROVE that the detector is capable of sensing smoke.

* To test a smoke detector, hold a lit candle 6 inches below it. If the alarm doesn't sound, blow out the candle and let the smoke drift into the detector. If it still doesn't sound, check the power source.

* Homes with wired-in detectors should have a battery-powered unit as a back-up.

* Rechargeable batteries are NOT recommended for smoke detectors.

* When installing a smoke detector, avoid dead-air spaces in corners and at the very ends of hallways. Centre your smoke detector on a ceiling, keeping it at least 6 inches from any wall. Locate a wall-mounted unit one foot below the ceiling.

* Smoke detectors should be kept away from drafts at vents, doors and windows.

* The tops of stairwells and any hallways leading to bedrooms are the recommended locations, the latter being the most critical, and the site recommended by the National Fire Code.

* Carefully (gently) vacuum your detectors annually.

About one quarter of all the homes we inspect have improperly located or non-functioning smoke detectors, or none at all!

CHECK YOUR SMOKE DETECTORS TODAY!

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

"The Home Reference Book"
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gil_Strachan

Hanging Drywall

2006-03-17T00:20:00.000-07:00

Hanging Drywall
By Gil Strachan

Also called wallboard, gyproc, or plasterboard, it is used to cover interior walls and ceilings, and sometimes as an underlay for ceramic tiles. Composed of gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) sandwiched between two layers of kraft paper, it has a fire rating of approx. 30 minutes, and offers reasonable soundproofing, especially when installed in two layers.

Hanging drywall can be fairly heavy work, but not overly difficult to master. It ranges from 1/4" to 5/8" in thickness, with 1/2" being the most common in residential work. The sheets are normally 4 feet wide and 8, 10 or 12 feet long, conforming to standard measuring increments, such as framing studs placed at 16 or 24 inch intervals.

Standard drywall sheets have tapered long edges and the shorts ends are squared off. One face is rough, and one face is smooth, for painting and papering. Water resistant drywall also has tapered edges, and is used for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Use cement-based backer board under tub surrounds or ceramics, in tub and shower areas. Some drywall comes pre-finished in different textures, colors and patterns, and some are vinyl-coated.

Wallboard (drywall) sheathing has tongue and groove edges, and is used under exterior claddings, including masonry to provide water and wind protection.

Wallboard sheathing and water-resistant drywall will both sag if used on ceilings - use standard drywall on ceilings, and cover with alkyd primer to water-proof the surface.

Drywall must be carefully measured and cut, before fastening to wood or metal studs, preferably with special drywall screws applied with a drywall gun or a drill, fixed with a drywall "dimpler" to properly counter-sink the screws. Use Type W screws for fastening to wood studs, Type G for fastening one sheet to another, and Type S for fastening sheets to metal studs. The joints are finished with joint compound (mud) and tape (paper or fibre mesh). Outside corners are covered with a metal corner (drywall "bead"). A T-square and utility knife are used for cutting, and a drywall knife (a smooth, broad spreader) is used for applying the compound.

To estimate quantities, add up the square footage to be covered, and divide by the number of square feet in a sheet (eg. 32 for a 4X8 sheet). One pound of nails or 1/2 pound of screws will fasten 200 square feet of drywall. Have a friend help you with the heavy sheets, especially when hanging a ceiling!

Drywall is easiest to install and finish if you hang it sideways, although if your ceiling is higher than 8'1" you might be tempted to hang the sheets vertically.

CAUTION

If hanging sheets vertically, you will be screwing very close to the tapered edge, and if the framing is not perfect, your vertical joints might be weak, or not line up at all!

Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

"The Home Reference Book"
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gil_Strachan

Basement Remodeling - Creating a Basement You'll Love by Christine Griego

2006-02-24T01:29:00.000-07:00

Most basements are dark, gloomy, and simply serve as a storage area for old toys, clothes, seasonal items, and anything else that is not used on a regular basis. Most of us rarely go down into the basement unless it is to unload more clutter that we don't want or need.

But, why not turn this gloomy storage room into something functional and useful? Remodeling your basement is a cost-effective way to significantly increase your home's living space. Suddenly you could have a nice, cozy guest room, a playroom for your children, a home office, a game room; the possibilities are endless!

Below are five simple steps to a brand new basement.

1. Repair any Basement Water Problems First

Even if your basement hardly ever has issues with flooding or dampness, it's best to take care of the problem completely before beginning any remodeling efforts.

Permanent solutions can take time to put into operation. A smart place to begin is to get in touch with a home inspector who specializes in waterproofing problems.

2. Decide What You Want to Use Your Basement For

This is where you can turn lemons into lemonade. Your Basement has poor lighting? Consider setting up a dark room or a home theater. Is your basement lonely and isolated? The isolation helps provide a nice sound cushion for noisy activities such as a teenager hangout, a game room, or a place for your kids to practice their musical instruments to their hearts content. Use your imagination and come up with something that will benefit your family's lifestyle.

3. Consider Professional Advice with Your Basement Design

Even though your basement might not be much to look at now, you'll want to end up with quality living space when the project is finished. An interior designer or architect can help you get the most out of the space. A little forethought and careful planning now can help you design a space that is attractive, comfortable and practical.

4. Consider the Air Circulation

Something important to consider is the air circulation of your basement. When your home was originally built, chances are that there were very few if any registers or vents installed in the basement. When you remodel your basement, you need to think about the need for good air circulation, adding openings where necessary.

To be on the safe side, install a carbon monoxide detector in your basement so that you'll have an early warning of any problems with the venting of the furnace or any other major appliances.

5. Make the Most of Your Basement's Natural Light

Depending on what you are using your basement for, you may wish to add more natural lighting. This can be done by enlarging your basement's windows. Another benefit of larger windows is that they provide additional escape routes in case of fire. Some may be concerned that by having basement windows that is providing easier access into the home by thieves. One way to lessen that risk is to install glass bricks instead of conventional windows at any location that is high-risk.

Take full advantage of the effect of regular windows by mounting some windows in the interior walls between rooms that open pathways for natural light to reach interior rooms.
About the Author

Christine Griego is the owner of Home-Options.info, a website that provides home improvement information, tips, and ideas.

Your Home Remodeling Project

2006-02-20T19:36:00.000-07:00

Hanging Sheetrock for the Ceiling

Doing Sheetrock for your Home Remodeling Project does not have to be hard. It can be easy and fun. It just depends on you. Using the right materials for the project is what it’s all about. Like the right length of board.

Over the years, I have found that while doing Home Remodeling Projects it is best to have 2-3 people to hang the ceiling; it’s much easier than using a Drywall Jack. Drywall Board of 1/2” x 4x8 standard sheetrock is best for ceilings, depending on the area of the ceiling. If there is a large area then use size 4x10 or 4x12.

Have 2 people to put the piece of sheet rock in place and to hold it tight, while the other person screws it in place with 1-3/8 Drywall screws. Screw at least 3 in the middle about 12 inches apart in order to hold it in place before screwing the borders. Always remember to stagger your joints like laying brick. Make sure that you put 3 screws in the middle of the sheet rock after you screw the border.

To hang the walls, do not stand the sheet rock upright; lay it flat across the walls. Start with the first piece up against the ceiling, and then place the next piece on the bottom of it. After screwing the perimeter, put 2, 1-3/8 screws in the middle of the sheet rock about 12 inches apart, it adds support. Remember again to stagger your joints.

In Our Next Edition Look for: Installing the Corner Bead

A New Innovative Tool for Hanging Drywall

2006-02-17T22:30:00.000-07:00

An New Innovative Tool for Hanging Drywall

An New Innovative Tool for Hanging Drywall
By Mark Donovan

Hanging sheetrock can be back breaking work and almost impossible to do without two people, particularly if hanging sheetrock on the ceiling. Most professional drywall hangers and do-it-yourself homeowners use a drywall jack or a homemade T-bar to hold the drywall in place while they fasten it to the ceilings. However, for the do-it-yourself homeowner renting a drywall jack can be expensive and using a T-bar can take some getting use to. There is now a new alternative. I recently discovered a rather innovative tool for hanging drywall on ceilings and walls. The tool is extremely low cost, simple to use and very effective for holding drywall in place.

The drywall tool goes by the name “FREE HANDS”. It is effectively a support tool for hanging sheetrock on ceilings and eliminates the need for a drywall jack or a T-bar. In addition, the device can also be used for hanging sheetrock on walls. Its simplicity is what makes it so unique.

The FREE HAND drywall tool simply consists of two small brackets that can be quickly secured into ceiling joists or wall studs prior to hanging the drywall. The drywall installer then simply slides the drywall into the FREE HAND tool to support the weight of the drywall while it is being secured with screws or nails. FREE HAND can also be used on walls, by measuring down from the ceiling 48 inches and securing the FREE HAND tool to a wall stud. The sheetrock can then be slid into place up against the wall studs and then fastened with drywall nails or screws.

Though FREE HAND is low tech it is very effective and low cost. The developer and manufacture, Quality Tool, advertise and sell the product on their website.

The next time you plan on hanging sheetrock you may want to consider this alternative for holding drywall. It could save you time, money and maybe even a sore neck and back.

To learn more about FREE HAND visit http://www.freehand2000.com

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com Also visit http://www.freehand2000.com to learn more about FREE HAND.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Donovan