Miles to go before i sleep!!

Day 10: Dingboche to Namche Bazaar (Everest Base Camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 03:19:00 +0000

Day 9 night was nice,altitude was much lower and sleep came easily, next morning the realization dawned that the bags will return on our shoulders. They felt considerably light though as most of the "khane ka samaan" (food) had finished. We started around 9:00 and reached Thynboche by 1:00 had lunch. I was hoping something happens to the weather and we get stuck here, this was such a nice place and i wanted to saty longer, it didn't. As we started from Thyngboche towards Namche Bazar (again an ambitious plan) the whether turned, storm clouds gathered and there was light rain.

While coming, the climb up Thynboche was tough, the decent was equally tough, Knees, ankles were now in a bad shape. It was a painful decent. After every decent is an ascent, equally painful. As soon as we completed our ascent, Namche was about 3 hours away. It started to snow. Gently at first and then it really started to fall. had to take shelter in a lodge for sometime to pack up the camera in the bag as everything was getting wet, take out the poncho, and water proof pants. Once dressed we all took a decision that whatever happens we will reach Namche today, so we started off in fading light and falling snow.

It was just an AWESOME experience, everything was covered in white, the mountains had shades of black. The snow made a rustling noise as it fell. the whole atmosphere was surreal and silent, and we kept walking, it was just awesome. By 6 in the evening we reached Namche to find it covered in a blanket of snow, it was simply beautiful in fading light.

We went back to the same hotel we stayed while coming back warmed up with coffee and hot water.The trip felt like it was over here. We were almost at Lukla just a day away (again an ambitious plan Namche to Lukla).

Snow enroute Namche: Photo by Pragnesh

Almost at Namche: Photo by Pragnesh

Dingboche with Lohtse peak in background

Towards Thyngboche

Ama Dablam, these choppers were a constant sight towards base Camp

We met this group from Pune on their way up, Pune and some other places

Heading for Thyngboche, last shot with Tsering Lama and his family

taking cover as it started to snow and also pack up camera gear back to the safety of the bag

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 9: Kala Patthar 18,514 ft (Everest Base Camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 21 Jun 2012 04:41:00 +0000

Today was the big day. Base camp is at 17200, but Kala Patthar is at 18514 ft ,according to Wikipedia. After Kala Patthar we had to reach back to Dingboche, quit ambitious considering we took 2 days to get here, but it was mostly downhill. I started at 5:00, the others were a bit late. The climb upto Kala Patthar is arduous to say the least. Altitude weighs down on you like a rock. All i remember is, that i somehow made it. I was slow.A big mistake i made was that i forgot to carry water, just an empty bottle, thanks to a fellow trekker who gave me water halfway up the hill, by the time i got to the top the water froze inside the bottle :). My military gloves, which i got cheap from Gopinath Bazaar were no good, one of my fingers got numb, a borrowed mitten returned the finger to normal.

Triumphant we all clicked shots at the top and came back to Lobuche. Had a good breakfast and started towards Dingboche. It was a long walk to Dingboche, very hard on the knees and the ankle but finally at 6:00 in the evening we reached Dingboche in cloudy weather ,13 hour walk.

Memorial of unknown dead climbers on the return Journey

On top of the peak

Pumori in the background

Enjoying the moments

Everest in the Center, Nuptse on the right, Khumbu Ice Fall on the left, the entire Mt Everest route is visible from here, The Everest base camp tents are also visible

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 8- Gorak Shep -Everest Base Camp (Everest Base camp Trek

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 03:56:00 +0000

After breakfast we started for Gorak Shep, our final destination, today was going to be a very long day as we would be doing the Everest base camp as which is 3-4 hours away from Gorak Shep. The terrain changed again to huge boulders, glaciers all around, the air was biting cold. After a long walk we reached Gorak Shep, we were all a bit shagged, i'm sure it was the altitude. Had an early luch of sandwiches which gave us the much needed energy and after an hours break we started towards the base camp. It was a long trek with many small ups and downs, and may places where there were just big boulders, climb and find your way.

Me and S were ahead of the pack and we reached the gates of the Base camp first, the others were not in sight. There was a stone at the gate saying Indian army camp 2012, and they had an invitation for a cup of tea. We decided to find this camp. A few first attempts were unsuccessful, as we knocked on the wrong tent doors.

About the base camp: Its on top of a glacier full of rocks and debris, slippery as hell and no paths, you have to find your way carefully around. The rubble lies over frozen ice so if you slip you will have a tough time getting back up. There are haphazard colorful tents all around with narly looking mountaineer inside or nearby just doing chores :).

We kept asking people for the Indian army camp, some said they didn't know, some said, its just up ahead, basically we kept walking. I was getting a bit frustrated at this time, i was really tired, the waling on the glacier was tough and the weather was turning bad. Apparently The others had turned back from the gate. S was adamant to press further. So ultimately after about an hour we finally found the Indian army camp. It was the last one in the base camp, the farthest one also. We were emotional after getting there, they served us tea and some dry fruits , we gave them some chocolate we had in our pockets as a good will gesture, the whole trip was made wonderful with this. We both felt euphoric proud and emotional. Spent about half an hour there and then decided to go back. It had already started snowing en-route, we could see that, the journey back would be really something. The worst part was that we had to find out way through the glacier on which we just spent an hour. Fortunately the guys at the camp showed us an easier route from where we came and finding our way out was a much easier job.

S had other ideas though he wanted to meet more people, so i left him to catch me up on the way. This guy is super fit and i thought he would catch me up, considering he is intending to do Everest next year.
By the time i reached the gate of EBC it had started to snow, i thought it wise to wait for S and leave together, as the trail by now was empty and only the 2 of us were left. I saw sandeep in the distance and shouted out to him to hurry, but he had other ideas. He asked me to leave, insane. Anyways i started back,assuming he will catch up, snow was falling by now, i was all alone in the trail, i concentrated and maintained a fair clip, S never caught upto me :). i reached back to Lobuche in the evening at about 5pm, 20 minutes he did. It had been a super day. By the time i reached Lobuche it had stopped snowing and the sun was out partially. This was a long day but very satisfying for me.

The terrain towards Gorak Shep

Thats Gorak Shep, the small trail on the left is towards Kala Patthar, on the right hand side is EBC on the Khumbu glacier

Everest Base Camp in the background, still about half an hour away

tempted to climb ahead

closer view of a few tents

The Gate

The Army Invite

The army team who served us tea

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 7- Dingboche to Lobuche (Everest Base camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 11 Jun 2012 04:06:00 +0000

The gas burner was proving to be useful now, we were heating water at night and filling our bottles. I slept from here on wearing my down Jacket, from Thyndboche onwards in fact.I kept the heated water bottle inside my down jacket,it warmed me up and also kept the water warm through the night, otherwise if you kept the bottle outside it was impossible to drink.A lovely plan was hatched, we dumped all our stuff in Dingboche, sadly including the tripod, wore everything we would need for the next 2 days, many layers of clothes basically, stuffed my pocket with chocolates and things to eat and carried only my camera and water bottle. It felt so good walking without any load, my camera bag was heavy though 2 kg, but i could not do without it.

I had taken a Nepal Sim which would not work, after today. So i called home to tell them to expect a call after 2 days only. The trail today was simply awesome. We walked throughout in the presence of the mightiest mountains in the world, surrounded by them on all sides. It was just awesome. Halfway through and all of us made good progress. Some folks got over ambitious and said we could reach Gorak Shep today, instead of Lobuche, i guess their adrenalin was flowing, or maybe AMS, as they were measuring their kilometers and height as if they were in Bangalore. It was decided to make a call when we reach Lobuche whether to carry on with their plan.

By the time we reached Lobuche any such idea had vanished, the topic never came up, altitude was taking its toll. We reached Lobuche in early afternoon, most of the people were in a exhausted shape. Without many words we settled in our rooms. It had also started to snow here in Lobuche and it was cold. we felt ok though, the lodge was good, it had good quilts.This was good news as i wasn't carrying my sleeping bag . Sleep was not as good though, the sharp, cold, thin air made sleep dearer

Lodge at Dingboche

Cinnamon Pie with Jam and Honey, delicious Sherpa Lodge food

Hot steaming bowl of Thupka

Chola Che


Ama Dablam in the back and the terrain to Lobuche

Trail to Lobuche

Thukla Restaurant

superb setting

The Memorial place, this is Scot Fishers memorial, there were so many menorials, some un-named, it was a sombre experience

Towards Lobuche

. Lemon Tea Kya?

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 5-6 Thyngboche to Dingboche (Everest Base Camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 03:52:00 +0000

Got up early and saw a terrific sunrise from behind Ama Dablam peak. After breakfast we started off for Dingboche. We had decided to take a break in Dingboche to acclimatize. I was happy that tomorrow would be a rest day. The trail from Thyngboche descends sharply towards the river. You cross a bridge and then the trail starts to ascend. The ascent is gradual.The vegetation changes, trees are dwarfed and towards the end they were reduced to shrubs. By the time we reached Dingboche we were tired. This wasn't a tough day but the altitude was beginning to show, i felt it at least. No headaches, but my breathing had definitely gone up.

The lodge we stayed in belong to Tsering Lama an everesteer, He was with us now to help our ailing friend. One of us whose backpack Tsering was carrying was in a bad shape due to altitude. He decided he will not go up the mountain anymore and stay here and wait for us. A courageous and a wise decision. The next day was a rest day so we were all relaxed. I think everyone slept late.

The next day after breakfast we decided we will do a bit of height gain to acclimatize, so climbed up to the ridge where the hotel was. It was a nice trek, exhausting though. We got good views of the path that lay ahead for us tomorrow. Came back and lazed around the whole day after lunch. Played cards.Seep. Spent many hours learning it first :).

Sunrize from Behind Ama Dablam

Thyngboche Monastery

Trail After Thyngboche

Terrific views through out

Yak Herder

The drastic terrain change

Dingboche town

The lodge where we stayed at Thyngboche

Rest Day, height gain

almost on top

Tired feet

posing prematurely

Ama Dablam at night, that group of tents of an expedition from Island peak

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 4- Namche to Thyngboche (Everest Base camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 04:21:00 +0000

I am an early riser, today was no exception. Woke up to terrific views from my hotel room window,had black coffee after i got up, it proved to be awesome for the throat which was a bit soar from the cold water sips at night. The view from the dining area and the room was awesome. Our room windows had ice over the window glass. We started late :), yes late, and after a climb above Namche bazaar the trail eased out. The most enjoyable section with terrific views of Ama Dablam and and easy up down trail. We had an early lunch somewhere, after which there was a vicious decent to Phungitenga. From Phungitenga there was a 3 hour climb up to Thyngboche.

Many felt the first signs of AMS here. Fortunately i was ok. The climb upto Thyngboche was killer, partly because of the altitude, and of course the gradient. Everyone acclimatizes in Namche bazar for a day, we did not. But it was a good decision.

Thyngboche is one of the best places in the whole trip. Its basically a monastery on a small plateau of grass with a bakery and a few lodges around. Its an astounding place. I would have loved to stay another day here to explore the monastery and around. Maybe i will go again and stay at Thynboche and Namche longer to enjoy the 2 places, but our destination was up ahead. Thynboche is surrounded on all sides by lovely snow covered mountains, terrific views of Ama Dablam and Mount Everest for the first time. Witnessed a tremendous sunset from here. As soon as the the light dimmed it became really cold. Down jackets on, we had food and went off to sleep. Also the fact that the cook at our lodge had to go and cook the Lama's in the monastery a meal, so he was in a hurry.

view from my room at Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar from above

The trail Above Namche Bazaar

Above Namche

Lunch Stop before Pungitenga after this there is a sharp decent, with a 3 hour climb to Thyngboche

Reaching Thyngboche, and the end of the climb

Thyngboche Monastery


First Views of Mt Everest during sunset, see the ice plume flying off the peak

Ama Dablam VIew from Thyngboche

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 3 - Phakding to Namche (Everest base camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 31 May 2012 04:51:00 +0000

The best decision on the whole trek, 3 of us decided to dump our sleeping bags in the lodge, including me. Reduced the weight by at least 1.5 kgs and i was a happy soul. Had breakfast and started out LATE as usual for Namche bazar. Today was going to be a tough climb. We were to climb from ~8K feet to ~11K feet.
The trail till Monjo was a bit up and down mostly, nothing serious but very enjoyable. We had a bit of an issue at the entrance of Sagarmatha regarding TIMMS and permit which ate up our time. Had a good lunch at Jorasale. After Monjo we crossed a bridge and the climb for Namche started. It was horrendous 45 degree climb for 3-4 hours, i lost count how many. I was drenched in sweat inside, but as soon as i stopped, i started to feel cold with the cool air, it was weird.
The day wasn't without incident though. While we waited before Namche for everyone to catch up, we found out that one of us was really far behind. SR showed a lot of courage in keeping his bag and going down to get the lagging guy up. By that time though our friend had hired a drunk porter who created a lot of issues for us later in Namche. All this happened towards the end of a 7-8 hour day while we were about to reach Namche and at the end of our energy levels

Another co-incidence happened here, i met along the way Mr Tsering Lama, everesteer,guide who i had contacted for EBC trek before i went with SCMLA. He came across as a very polite guy, only for him to return and help us with the tricky situation at Namche. Our struggling friend decided to hire Tsering for the rest of the trip, which turned out to be a great decision for all of us too.

I highly recommend Tsering lama if you decide to do this trek.His number is 00977 9841 834598.

The winds in this place are strong, my hat flew off into the river,SA and PR ran after it and got it back, commendable energy i must say :)

I was too tired to venture out anywhere in famous Namche, so i had an early dinner and went off to sleep.

View from my room in Phakding Buddha lodge in the morning

Notice the climb

guys

The Hat rescue act

The trail after Jorasale

After you cross this bridge the climb starts, i dont have any pictures after this, i guess i was too wasted to click any

Met Tsering Lama, the Everesteer, Before Namche by chance. I think the only pic i clicked on the vicious climb up Namche

The last flat road

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

Day1: Kathmandu

Day 2 -Lukla to Phakding (Everest Base camp Trek)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 24 May 2012 14:52:00 +0000

We were supposed to get up early have breakfast and load up on the vehicle for the airport. We were late, "as usual", most people are usually always late by my standard, my wife will vouch for it. Anyways we started for the airport.
The stomach begins to churn at this point. We board a small bus towards the plane, the sight of the small plane and the intense noise of other such planes taking off furthers the movements in the stomach.

The passengers weren't chatty, quiet mostly,most probably saying a silent prayer, we were a bit rowdy but it was more out of nervousness, I'm sure of that.

Tara Air Equivalent of Haryana roadways bus in Harayana

The plane takes of with all the noise

Although i thought that this plane ride was over-hyped on the internet, but after being on the flight i can say, its definitely something else. It lasted longer than i expected. It was noisy, The plane dropped10/15 feet easily in a second or two many times and rose up as well. It was a shaky ride filled with a lot of oohs and aah's and a bumpy landing.20 more minutes in the same plane and some of us may have had to use the puke bag for sure.
The landing at Lukla at 9 seconds in watch the airstrip visible for a moment

Hope these work

Breath of Fresh air as you land

The Airstrip

As soon as we landed everyone clapped, and as soon as we got out of the airplane, it was just awesome, the mountains were already huge and refreshing. The good feeling came back. the trek had started :).

As we started off from Lukla today's trek was supposed to be easy, all downhill and 4-5 hours. We started of on an easy pace enjoying our selves. Much of the first few hours went in adjusting the bag its straps, the camera bag, the water bottle and the cap. Finally all got settled down, i felt more confident carrying my backpack.

My Backpack and everything around it

My backpack weighed 11 KG (found out from the airport). Camera ,tripod, water, sleeping bad, down jacket, gas canister adding another 4 odd kgs i assume. It was a nice walk, getting to know people. Towards the end of the trek it started to rain, we stopped and donned out rain gear, my rain proof pants, poncho:all put to good use. We reached our first day destination Buddha lodge just in time as the clouds opened up in full flow. The blue team were stuck just a bit behind, under a cave :).

The welcome gate just at the edge of Lukla

The trail mostly downhill

Etched stones found all over


many such suspension bridges enroute

About to rain

Rain in full swing, while we enjoy inside the lodge

Bukhari around the sitting area

A word about the lodges in this region. Very cheap to stay, stay only food is extra :), and very comfortable. Neat and clean, with good loos and quilts and mattresses all are nice. The cost of food goes up as you move up the mountain, but there is NO reason to complain. Food is awesome always. Rustic, catering to the huge number of European American tourists coming for this trek. Hash browns, mashed potatoes, Muesli, apple pie's, sandwiches, chocolate pudding, black coffee, lemon tea, hot orange, Italian etc etc you name it its there. All lodges have a central bukhari in the dining area which is fired up at might and its just awesome, dry your stuff here, eat, everyone gets around it in the evening so a great place to socialize as well.

Escaping the rain

Since we were the only ones at the guest house, the owner put on the "into thin Air" DVD for us. Not quit the happy start we would have hoped but no complaints. I slept early, my shoulders were hurting from all the weight today.

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day1: Kathmandu

Everest Base camp trek- Day 1 Kathmandu Arrival

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Tue, 22 May 2012 07:36:00 +0000

The planning for the Everest base camp trek was not as lengthy as some of my earlier trips, it was minimalist to say the least.It didn't occur to me till the last few days that i was actually going for the trek.

Packing for the trek was a huge effort, not in terms of the amount of stuff, but the lack of it. I was undecided whether i would carry my own backpack or not hence did not know how much to carry. The essential question was, How "bare" my essentials could be?. I was also missing a few things ,those few things were giving me a headache. Like Water bottle, floppy hat, and a few other things. These things sound insignificant but can mean the difference between a good and an bad trek.

There other issue was "to porter or not to porter" , which meant a decision whether i need an extra day pack or not. With all those small but significant things, time arrived. I carried an extra backpack, just in case, and thought i would decide after getting to Kathmandu on my next move.

Day 1

I didn't expect Kathmandu to be nice, i thought i would be like any other Indian city, hot dirty, crowded. Crowded it was but not hot and dirty, i was pleasantly surprised. It wasn't hot at all, very comfortable, no need for a fan type. The hotel we were staying in was a small shady place in the middle of the tourist Thamel district, but i wasn't complaining, tomorrow we were heading out to Lukla :). Those of you who don't know Lukla , go YouTube "Lukla landing" and you will know why the smiley.

This day we shopped in the evening, i got a hat, a water bottle too. Bought a GAS cylinder(trekking one) to save cost on soup, Maggi and hot water up the mountain. Hot water is very expensive up the mountain and everyone needs it for sure. Also some soup packets and Maggi.

Today also got to meet the others on the trek with us. We got down jackets and sleeping bags which were colored in 2 schemes, co incidentally so as they decided our groupings along the trek as well ;-).

My concerns by evening had increased, everyone in the group seemed super fit with super light backpacks, mine was the heaviest and i also seemed to be the least fit, porter was still on my mind. none the less i took the risk of carrying it on my own.

Sandeep our group leader told us that we could do a porter if we want in Phakding, after the first days destination, so i thought i will give the bag a go. We had an early dinner and packed of for an exciting day tomorrow

Streets of KTM: photo courtsey Pragnesh

Day 9: Kala Patthar

Day 8: Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp

Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche

Day 5-6: Thyngboche to Dingboche

Day 4: Namche to Thyngboche

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding

1000 D and going strong

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 04:51:00 +0000

This is not a review but my diary
The Canon 1000D was my choice of the first DSLR, and i am happy till now with it.

After extensive reserch and countless changes in mind i chose this over the 450D majorly due to budget issues. The difference i feel is not at all huge. the only thing i think i should have had, is the 9 AF points. I do realize now that how useful they are.

DOF experiments, multiple shots

Ive started using RAW but its bloody cumbersome, but gives excellent control.

After my P&S which did pretty much what my 1000 D does how do i fare after a month, do i regret it? absolutely not. I love it. I am still not there but learning. I could have clicked better shots with my S3 but when i do get it right from this one..its a good shot.

I have a shady kit lens 18-55 not IS the old one.Strange that only in India they sell 1000D with that lens, everywhere else its the new IS 18-55 IS lens. I'm still getting used to the aperture differences from my P&S.The smaller P&S gives much more DOF and i'm still getting used to a larger lens. I got a fell of the few other lenses, the nifty fifty and the 55-200 and i got excellent results. DSLR is definately about the glass.

The 18-55 is not to bad and i loved the DOF i got in this one. I call this Tete-e tete

A portrait from the 50mm, no PP, i would love to work on this soon.

from the 55-200 canon.
another one from the 55-200 gets me real close to the action

Now i need to find my sweet spot for Focal lengths, to decide my next lens. Though i loved the nifty 50 but the APSC sized sensor makes is 80 mm for me and i was somewhat uncomfortable. I like getting close to the subject so i guess i will have to try some wide ones as well. This is the biggest issue in India why the hell cant we rent lenses, i would love to use a lens to decide whether i like it or not, ive done enough reading and its of no help to choose a lens. You have to use it to know if you like it.

SO what i like about my DSLR vs MY P&S

- I love the level of control i have (shutter ,aperture, styles etc etc)
- I love the fact that it kicks back if i am not carefull
- Lenses, each new lens will have a new learning curve, i'm sure of that, and thats where the fun is.
- 10 MP of superfine image to crop if needed
- I see my frame through my lens..how can i forget that :)

What i miss from my P&S

- Carry it easily
- Video

I will do a bit on lenses once i get my calling sorted out, i have enough to write on that and i cant wait :).

Rio Paragliding : One heck of an experience

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 05:30:00 +0000

I have been harping in my previous post about how beautifull Rio is and have been shunned for writing just a few lines like a schoolboy, so i thought i should do some justice and write about at least one of the things in detail. One week is a short time for any place to see all the sights, explore all the facets, but there are somethings that you just have to do. Hand gliding was on the top of my list. Unfortunately the place where its done, Pedra De Gaeve, the mountain, was a fair distance away from where i was staying, Copacabana beach. While in the first weekend i had decided to do the other "must do" sites of Christ the redemptor and sugar loaf, i wanted to save the best for the last.
I was to fly out of Rio on Sunday afternoon, so saturday i planned to jump. Thanks to my colleague (Luiz) in office who helped me fix up the pilot who could take me for a flight (its a tandem jump), and drove me to this place at the base of the mountain. I was all excited and ready. The drive to this place was wonderfull through a road going along side the sea. We passed Ipenema beach enroute and also a few tunnels. It was like a discovery channel travel show with smooth tarmac to drive, sea on the left with waves crashing on the rocks just a few meters from you, and huge towering lush green mountains on your right offering terrefic views as well.The weather gods had different ideas though. The launch pad high up in the mountain was covered in clouds. It wasnt possible to jump. I was heartbroken. I was flying back to Delhi tomorrow. Marcelo (my guide), the guy who was the pilot however said that we can try again tomorrow, i wasnt too optimistic though looking at the weather, He told me that he will pick me up from my hotel the next morning.
Click on images below to enlarge
The road along the coast in the bottom right of the image

That whole night i could hear thunder and rain from my hotel room, my heart was sinking.I slept watching CNN and the news about Mumbai. The next morning as soon as i woke up the first thing i did was look out of the window, it seemed ok, still a bit cloudy. I dressed up ASAP, packed up my stuff as i had a flight to catch in the afternoon, checked out of the hotel and waited for Marcelo. Marcelo's partner arrived in a rickety old car, older than our beloved premirre padmini, and with a strange contraption on top, which i later realized was meant for carrying the glider. As we reached the base of the mountain i met Marcelo who seemed upbeat. I signed the customary death warrant with a nominal fees and we started towards the top of the mountain in the rickety old car with the glider on top. The Journey to the top was fun, we went through the Tijuaca rain forrest, very dense and beautifull.I think it was a short ride up about half an hour or 25 minutes. As soon as the engine was switched off there was complete silence just the jungle sounds..amazing...i also saw a snake he seemed to be in a hurry as he swooshed past us just a couple of feet from us into the thick undergrowth. We were the second in line to jump, but just before we did, it was training time, a few basics about do's and donts and i was ready.I was'nt scared as the atmosphere was pretty relaxed.We practiced running together matching my left leg with his right which was crucial as we were strapped in a harness together.After this was done Marcelo told me "my life depends on you", and i thought, "what!!..did he not get it the other way around". He told me that during take off if i stop running even for a moment or hesitate we will plunge from the launch pad to the mountain side below. so whatever you do "DONT STOP". That moment got my heart racing a bit. this was for real. View from the top of the launch pad My Glider I have done parasailing (with a parachute) before in Bhimtal, for that you need a good wind so that you parachute pull up before you jump off, in hand gliding however you need to run to get momentum and lift. I was strapped in and we were ready to go. The view below was already amazing, i coundt wait to fly over this beautifull city. By the time we took off the sun was out, i enjoyed every second of the 15 minute flight. It was just "Awesome" flying like a bird. Intialy we gained more height, i could feel the air currents lifting the glider as we circled the top of the mountain, then we kept circling and decending to land on the beach far below. Launchpad below as we rise on air currents terrific views to sail over The Landing was when i was most scared, just before we landed the glider swooped down VERY fast and levelled out just inches from the ground, it was hair raising, but a perfect landing in the end.

Enjoy the video from the wingtip of the glider

Mount Everest :IMAX film

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 04:32:00 +0000

I'm so intrigued that this had to be a post. This is one in a 5 part posts of an IMAX film on mount everest by National geographic shot just a few days after the 96 everest tragedy. Climbing this behenoth is tough enough and achieving the feat of making a film in those conditions is really amazing. So enjoy..

Into thin Air -Jon Krauker -my thoughts

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 09:18:00 +0000

A chilling account of the tragedy that took place on the mount everest in 1996.the infamous year with the highest number of fatalities. I found it a very honest narration of the authors opnions without a bias, but it is a hotly contested one, with professional reputations at stake. The book gives us a glimpse of what Everest would be like, and enthuses in me atleast, a sense of adventure that i always want to pursue. Despite the dark side of fatalities, the sheer real life drama of people not making it safley and dieying only meters away from safety is chilling.

I can only imagine what summit fever must be like and what that altitude would do to the human body.

apart from the actual tragedy it gives a veruy clear idea on what such an expedition would be like, its almost like living through the climb with Jon Krauker.

i am gripped with everest fever now and reading up on the net about it, it is a and a must read for any adventure seeker

Rio De Janerio

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 06:49:00 +0000

I had a chance to visit Rio de Janerio November last year. What a beautifull place this is. The best part about rio are the people, very helpfull and smiling no airs about them.

Rio is very pretty with the mountains and beaches and the forrest all mixed together forming a gorgeous landscape. All the beaches needless to say are stunning, every 50 odd meters is a beach shack selling local beer SKOL and "capiriniha". I loved this drink, very refreshing cool and perfect for the beach setting, here's how you make it

Capiriniha
Add lots of crushed ice, not fully crushed to lemon wedges lots of then again and sugar, mull it together. Pour Casacha till glass is full :) (yes that correct). Give it a good shake and walla.

The national dish here is Fejuada, very heavy, actually its all parts of the pig, toungue, brain etc etc. I had it at a swank place in office. I liked it. Caution. It makes you sleepy. I had lots of other good food in Rio, pizzaz's filled with chocolate, girilled chicken varieties, fresh fish at the shaks and shrimps,crabs it was a very nice.

Sugar loaf and Corcovado offer terrific views of Rio and dont miss to jump from pedra de gaeva. one heck of a view and experience, not to be missed at any cost.

They speak portugese here and the only word i survived with is "obrigado" ->thank you thats all you need, they help you out with the rest :). and also bon dia -> good morning, i forgot good afternoon and evening although i was taught.

Rio is such a stunning place that you should visit here at least once, forget Europe go to Rio and have fun

To DSLR or not to DSLR ?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 06:49:00 +0000

everybody who is an anybody wants to own a DSLR these days. The economics of today have made it possible to own a DSLR by anyone.

And this is the question i get a lot from people who want a good Camera often, "I want to buy a DSLR, which one should i buy"

My advice goes as follows

1) Do you take photographs for fun to experiment? (not holidays or vacation)

2) Do you like Bookeh ? or does it ring a bell?

3) Do you know the difference between aperture and Shutter?

4) Have you ever changed White balance settings in your point and shoot?

5) Do you ever print your digital photos?

most commonors answer "No" to the above. And its not surprising, everyone clicks for fun, at occasions , to remember moments. Its not a hobby for everyone, then why on earth do you need a DSLR. Most point and shoots today have all these features built in, and no one uses even onr thirds of them how will you justify a zillion custimizable things on a DSLR

SO the choice is obvious, dont buy a DSLR unless you pursue photography as a hobby, and you know the basics. Of course there is auto mode and it will give you great pictures but whats the point, it like buying a ferrari and getting a chauffer to drive you around. duh!

Most people argue about picture quality, sure there is a difference but can you spot it on your computer screen ? try it if you think you can and you are serious about learning buy a DSLR, if not..just click and be happy.Dont splurge :)

Roop Kund Trek :2008

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:10:00 +0000

Roopkund it is then, i dont know how i decided on this, definately the photos and the blogs on the internet (although there ar'nt too many) but i am not a trekking guy but this trek was fun and "tough".

I did not know the guys i was to head out with, met them through BCMT forum on the internet, the plan seemed good and they needed a partner, i jumped in. Such trips are difficult to plan, not in terms of logistics, but if you are going with "KNOWN" friends: not everyone is free, some have wives ;), some tough jobs etc etc. and the window of the trek throughout the year is very small. June to September. And to reach Roopkund, is not gauranteed ... it all depends on how merciful the whether gods are at that point in time.

Roopkund is a tough trek, and the whether makes it tougher, we were prepared with an ice axe and rope. The guy who planned the trip was out at the last moment, thanks to the financial cricis in the US, yeah its a small world these days imagine the odds of that affecting my trek, and i was a bit uneasy, damm. When you are "part" of the plan you can only say ....damm ;-).

Day 1
Met the Other 2 guys (Suman and Sanket) at the station, and boarded the train for Kathdodam, in the morning at KGM the all too familiar feeling at the foothills came back, the smell of fresh Pines, the sight of the mountains and i was back in my element.
Enroute from our Taxi

we took a Taxi to Loharjung 250 KMS from Kathgodam, all the while prompting the Mumbai friends on how to pronunce kathgodam :).BTW we were 2 newbie trekkers and an experienced 8 year trekker amongst us Sanket ;-), this guy is like Mumbai don, all good stories of don friends and all, Mumbai rules kinda guy :).Suman on the other hand a Bengali, and too enthu for the mountains, a bit of Rum and he will go all out..even without it..lol, a true mountain lover at heart though.

Reached Loharjung at ~6:00 pm, through some bumpy roads terrific scenery and signs of torrential rains, all little rivulets along the way seemed like grade 4 rapids. Made us worry a lot: "are we even going to get halfway to Roopkund?".

Did some last minute shopping also this day, rice dal, ghee etc. We met our guide Narendra Singh who promised to be in early next morning to start the trek.

Day 2
A beautifull morning in Loharjung with fresh crisp mountain air and we were all ready in anticipation, Narendra was a bit late, the porters were arranged a few more last minute things to buy, A stove, kerosene, fresh vegetables etc etc and we were off. A straight walk till kulling about 4 KMS odd i think and then a desent towards Didna.
Crisp Morning at Loharjung

Ready for the first Day

Route:- we wanted to go Via Ali bugyal and hence the Didna route, a faster route is through Wan directly to Bedni Bugyal.

The plateau in the middle of that Mountain is Didna and towards the top right of the photo on top of the mountain is starting of Ali Bugyal

the desent from Kuling to Didna was laden with large loose rocks very painfull, and then straight up the mountain on the other side to Didna, warm up for the first day (trekking parlons) was more of a burnout for us :).Reached Didna, gorged ourselves on aadu's, We had an option to camp out or stay in a old house for some money, i was keen to camp but on our guides suggestion and the others opinion we took the house, and a good decision an the heavens let loose at night, torrential rain throughout.Gorged ouselves on delicious Khichdi prepared by Narendra singh he is an excellent cook as well.

At Didna having aadus with Gajendra and dhan singh

The house we stayed at Didna

I was very pessimistic the whole night, coudnt sleep well partly listening to the heavy rains outside and fearing worst for our trek ahead, and partly because Sanket was snoring like a train in my ear.

Day 3
The morning however was brilliant and sunny, we started off early leaving the porters to collect all stuff and catch us up, oh yeah these guys are champions, 20 odd kilos or more in the back and they skip like gazzeles while you pant your way through, amazing strength.Me and Dada (suman) had worked out a pace though, we were walking at the same pace a decent one. We had to walk up the whole mountain today, straight up, the gradient was easily 40 to 45 degrees and i am not exaggerating. Today we first hit Ali bugyal, all three of us started out together but we bade goodbye to Sanket, he was really struggling, and Narendra stuck with him as we left him to conqure his own deamons. As we neared the top of the mountain throug some dense forrest we were almost drained out, but as soon as we left the tree line behind a the landscape changed from Dense forrest we were now in a Bugyal (meadow) and WHAT A SIGHT, i do not have words to explain, as if we got our second wind and were almost running up , the top seemed near but after every curve there was a higher one waiting. It was a tiring but a pleasent climb, about 3-4 hours am not sure, i had no watch no mobile and had lost sense of all time.

The climb through the forest

The gradient

The tree line behind us

The Snaking Path below is where we came from just to give you an idea

the porters
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Me at Ali Bugyal

The porters had also caught us by this point in time, they left camp 1 hour after we did :).We had promised to wait for Sanket at Ali bugyal, so we did, we roamed around all of khopal top and ali for about 2 hours. All the while the clouds danced around below and above us presenting us some stunning landscapes of Ali.By the time Sanket reached the whether had closed in, that the norm at higher reaches is that it stays open till about 12 am then the clouds move in, maybe a shower and you might get a clear spot in the evening again. We started for Bedni from there still about hour and half away, after sanket had reached, but this time it was a straight (straight compared to what we had just climbed, straight path in mountains is a superflous term) path,half way throoug it started to rain and we jumped into rain Suits to protect ourselves, Bedni eluded us as we kept on walking and walking and walking. Since Narendra was behind us and the porters already ahead of us me and Dada took a wrong route,we almost started towards our fourth day destination, thanks to the whether gods who lifted the fog only momentarily to show us that we had missed our camp below. A teribbly cold night at Bedni followed, i was shivering in my sleeping bag with inner clothing on, The rain again continued throughout the nights we took
refuge in a district room instead of a tent. There are forest rooms also here, BTW room means something that has a roof on top here, nothing else, come prepared or else ;-).

Enroute Bedni Bugyal

Day 4
Exceptionally cold and beautifull, it was the first time we saw bedni in all its spleandour since it was all covered up last evening. and what a sight. We could see chaukambha far away, Nand ghunti and trishul were as if we could hug them. Truly magnificient views, again the whether gods seemed to be with us. In the meanwhile we had got to know from a group who were returning that there was too much snow up there, they could not make it to Roopkund, we were anxious and quizzed Narendra again and again on our chances, all the while he politely found one way or another to deflect our questions, he must have dealt with a lot of pestering tourists. I could gather though that for this time of the year it seemed way too much snow, we could see it from Bedni on out path, Narendra said it never snowed there this early. Anyways we had to start off, the group told us that there were two other groups up there in Bagua basa, and that Bagua basa is not fit to camp as there is too much snow, damm.
Trishul from Bedni early morning

Bedni Bugyal in the morning

Narendra probably had planned already to camp us at Pathar Nauchauni. so we started off from Bedni after a small prayer. Soon after the ascent from Bedni to our path we found snow in our path, and it was terrific wealking though it. Just about a kilometer from our camping sight a beautifull place where we took a break, Ghora Lotani, we met 2 groups decending along this path, both count make it. My heart was sinking, all the while admiring the pristine beauty around me. This was and easy day, we camped at Pathar Nachauni, first time in tents i was excited and it was cold, bloody cold. Our plan was to start off early tomorrow morning 5:00 am, as we had good about 8-10 KMS of trek one way. leave only with small packs as we had planned to return to this base camp, 14-16 kms a day is a huge distance, trust me. and if you see the gradients you will say its huuuuugggge.

Bedni in the Background this climb as esily about 25 minutes i think

Nandghunti on left and trishul on the right..their reflection on Bedni Kund

Chaukambha from Bedni

Prayers at Bedni

Narendra Singh Bisht

Snowy trail to Pathar Nachauni

Ghora Lotani

Hailstorm at our camp in Pathar nachauni

Night at the camp

Day 5

We got up early today and started off around 5:30 am, it was nice and cold, the climb up to Kalu Vinayak was intimidating,and also snowed up. We had news that it was snowed up at baguabasa so we expected it. we reached kalu Vinayak and what a place it was, probably the best place in the whole trip, a perfect temple, snow all around and, terrific views 360 degrees. I could have spent all day here. Altitude was also showing signs here as we were breathing heavy. We had to wait for Sanket, as Narendra was with him and we could see snow ahead. Sanket was about an hour behind us a little less maybe. We needed Narendra to lead us from now on.
Early next morning

Look closely that zig zag in the mountail is the trail to Kalu Vinayak

Kalu Vinayak

Our tents are down there 2 little specs, and you can see the path we took, cant see? see them in the photostream

Trishul and trishul..and follow the trishul(man made) where it hits the mountain along a dip, thats where Roopkund is :)

Chaukambha from Kalu Vinayak

Our major concern was to get to Roopkund early lest the whether closed in. We carried on till chera nag with Sanket trailing. The steps at chera nag made treacherous by the snow. As we waited again at chera nag for sanket and Narendra, we took a break and it looked completely snowed out ahead. At this point Sanket was completely drained. He decided to return back with one of the porters as he just coudnt go on. With Narendra leading the way we started for Roopkund, the trail diassappeared after about a kilometer, but we kept walking on the snow, all the time carefull not to fall off the edge, there was no trail here. The Final ascent to roopkund was tough, it had started snowing, the skies were making a good amount of noise, the final slope seemed unassailaibe with 3-4 feet of snow, every step sunk in sliding us down wasting the effort we just made, it was very tough. We gave up midway as the clouds roared above us, at one point i was lying flat on my chest, my stick deep in snow and just holding on unable to even stand.
Bagua basa

struggling up

giving up in bad whether

Finally there

We climbed up there..that ridge beyond which is Roopkund

Just as we gave up due to heavy snowfall Narendra said, its just 50 meters, uptill now he had left all decision to us, this last piece of words from him "50 meter door hai itne door aa ke nahin jaoge aagey" made me gather my strenght and i almost crawled on all fours and we somehow reached the top of the climb. A small word of motivation was all i needed.

Elation gripped us and we were totally exhausted, it was snowing very hard, so we spent very less time there took a few snaps, the lake was frozen. Downhill was fun as we dug in our heels and and just jogged down..it was fun and dangerous also, many times we coudnt see rocks n all also but the fresh snow helped us, it was soft and we could dig our heels for a grip. It was the best experience of my life.

The walk back to our camp was tiring, snow throughout the way, my feet almost froze off. It never seemed to end. Surprisingly this day all ate was a chapati, did not feel hungry even when i got back to camp. and as soon as i got back, i got into my sleeping bag, it was cold and i was tired. I only got of the tent next morning.

Photo gallery best Viewed as a slideshow at http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitin_joshi/sets/72157607656574874/

Chaukori

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 05:49:00 +0000

Delhi -Chaukori -Delhi

3 days not enough

after Almora the seharghat route is smaller but very bad..bout 90 KMS, take the gangolihat route..much better but longer by 2 hours

Patal bhuvaneshwar is a must dont miss it..no photography allowed there.

If you can do a break journey :), esp during rains..otherwise doable in a day..be prepared for a 15 hour day..easily

Khardung la (last year)

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 06:58:00 +0000

Last year this day we we on top of khardung la...euphoric :)

The Gods Abode

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Wed, 21 May 2008 07:14:00 +0000

For this trip we tried to plan so much that we ended up planning nothing, where to go what to do, dharamshala was out, finally Chakrata emerged victorious, actually doeban and what a good decision that turned out to be
we had started off pretty early, as we had planned for Dharamshala so 4:20 we were all at the Karnal bypass. Some of us met each other for the first time. A few first time riders in Mehta Narinder and Paaji worried us. Yes we called him Paaji and will do so, he made the trip double fun thanks paaji and helped us survive the night at deoban.

His (Paaji's) bike wasnt running well though coudnt go over 60 so it was slow going till Pipli...and we found some amazing routes on this trip more gyan on that later. Somehow none of us could gather too much credible info from the net on the routes to here, as there were many and no feedback.
We went via the karnal Highway to Pipli, diverted to yamunanagar, Kaalsi from where we had to collect the permits for Deoban. Enroute was Poanta sahib and what a great ride that was through the jungles.
From Kaalsi the ride to chakrata was pathetic, so pathetic that some of us wanted to turn back, scenery was pathetic and also the road. We thought of staying in chakrata, there is just one hotel Snow view and maybe a few more a little distance away, snowview was full. Since our original plan was for Deoban we decided to head there

Gyan
Deoban is a forest as the name suggests Dev- Van (forrest of the gods), nothing there except a Forest rest house, you have to take prior permission from the DFO at kaalsi(pronunced as kaal-seee this is imp as there is another kalsi in the area confusing the locals :)) to stay there.
There is no electricity or runing water there, whatever water the care-taker gives you is drinking and is rationed, we carried our own cooking stuff including aata, rice chiken, oil , salt etc from chakrata to survive a few days there. This is where Paaji starred, all of us being so lazy at least i am, we would have slept drinking pepsi but paaji motivated us to cook. Before this to reach Deoban is a jeepable track of about 10 odd kms, pretty nasty at places and loads of fun. can be treacherous for first timers. Anyways we made it to deoban.

The cooking food was an experience i will never forget. Burnt wood for preparing the "chulas" made maggi and eggs chiken and rice, and believe you me the taste of your own labour under those circumstances is awesome. It was scary at night outside as there was no electricity. Paaji had a scorpion over his foot which got smashed to bits and scared the wits out of whoebver was there.

The Next day we moved to chakrata as the water shortage was killing us, so we survived only one night at Deoban, but what a memorable night it was.
TIPS:
if you are going to deoban be well prepared to cook, carry a stove if you can, learn to survive with meagre water :)...its nasty when you gotta go... trust me lol.

Next day we got a room in chakrata cleaned ourselves felt so much better. Chakrata is like any other small hill town, nothing there to hang around. we also went to Tiger falls, deep in the hills had to walk a kilometer down to get to it, but was worth the fun.

The Lyril Man

Since we had no plans at the end of the day the discussion came back, what to do tomorrow, Ankit and Mehta wanted to go back to delhi no one else wanted that :) mehta coz he was the pillion and his bum was hurting. so majority prevailed and we headed out to mussorie. What a good ride this was. Zero traffic and excellent scenery. Enroute we came to Yamuna pul where we saw a rafting camp. Dithched mussorie spent the night at the camp, did rafting which was fun.
Paaji fell off the boat twice in the rapids which was a sort of record there considering the rapids were grade 2 :)..sorry paaji had to write this.

The next day we started back for Delhi Via Kaalsi but this time a different route, and what a good route it was.
Gyan
Ir you are going to chaktrata via karnal Pipli go to yamunanagar, 2 kms before Kaalsi there is a diversion for yumnotri and chakrata, take the Yumnotri (catch you might need to go to kaalsi to get permits and tred back to this point) road, a few kms up there is again a diversion to chakrata. This route might be longer by 20-30 kms but worth it. The one after kaalsi is pathetic.
The final day was good, rains throughout, so no riding in the sun to delhi. Stopped at poanta sahib to pay respects, back to delhi. Power packed 4 days of fun.

A Few more shots

Royal Enfield 500 LB Machismo - why me?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 06:26:00 +0000

The Royal Enfield no doubt a great bike but in recent times is suffering under its own weight. It is surviving today only because of its image in the market.

There are countless debates about this topic on various forums, so I don’t want to delve deep into this, neither am I trying to influence any opinions here. I just want to highlight my experience with as many people so that they don’t get to face the same hassles I did.

No two ways about the fact the RE is an awesome bike, but its only "BAD" "NEGATIVE" "SAD" point is the "Management" itself. The people who are running the company lack the passion shown by its customers "The Riders".

My one month Old Machismo 500 LB needs a piston barrel kit changed, because there was a manufacturing defect in the bike. You would understand the emotion if you buy a new bike for over a lac and they say it has a defect after 300 kms riding, and open up the engine to replace the piston. Hell. And repeated attempts to make them change the engine are of no avail.

RE makes 500 of these in a year, and if these lousy engineers cant check 500 bikes IN A YEAR to be error free, god knows where this company is headed.

ASSUMING only my bike is faulty (that is a biiiggg ASSUMING BTW), 1 defect in 500, I hate to even do the math for quality indicators.

SO guys if you want to go ahead and buy a machismo 500 be sure to take a test ride of the piece that is going to get delivered to you, listen for a knocking sound from the engine, Don’t trust these buggers at RE. Oh and a friend of mine got one a month back it runs like a peach. So take the risk of a RE if you are up for it, or be cautious in choosing the bike delivered to you.

The best part is the answer i get from RE "its a machine hota hai" from a senior guy in the management......what the F%^& , this is their attitude, I am ashamed and scared: how will RE survive the market with this kind of an attitude. I am getting my bike repaired now, a brand new Machismo 500 LB the premium bike in the RE stable, being repaired after 300kms of running, bravo.

Its because of idiots like me who love the bike but hate the company that ensure that its still out there, but for how long is the question? and they blame the bike after all this .. Incompetent *&%$#@.

Leh - Kargil

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:51:00 +0000

Riding back from Khardung la was a lot easier; we were all relaxed, as if the battle was won. En route we stopped at the Leh Palace, some of us had more urgent matters to attend back at the hotel so they rushed back (nature calls.. lol). No great shakes there(city palace); we climbed a lot of steps only to see a lot of phirangs hustling for a photo.

The Ice had melted by then and was more of slush

Prayer flags at Leh Palace

The next morning we headed out to Kargil, it was going to be a long day so we thought of heading out early. As usual everyone was late, Sandhu and me were ready and headed off leaving the rest of them behind us. I was controlling my emotion better by now: so pat on the back to me … :).

A quick fuel stop and we started off slowly, waiting for others to catch up. Sherry, Apjoo and Amar soon caught up. Mr. Pandey, our Dude was missing. As we waited in patthar Sahib, we got the news that he had banged into a Van, Head on. Apparently he came out with only scrapped fingers. Sandhu went back to Leh to get him. We were contemplating the end of the ride for Pandey, but after a few frantic calls back to Leh, news was in, that all is ok, including the bike and Mr. Pandey.

Yeah we climbed all the way up..well half the way atleast :)...Amar went the entire way :)
We decided to have Lunch at Nimu where we waited for Sandhu and Pandey to catch up as well. BTW the roads in this part are amazing smooth Tarmac

Finally they arrived and we were very late. We had to see Lamayuru monastery en route. I must say Pandey is a brave man, no sign of the accident besides 2-bandaged fingers, and he was still flying ahead of all of us.

Lamayuru

By the time we reached Lamayuru it was late afternoon, Apjoo didn’t get off well with the monk there :). Amar slipped in the gravel, as a result he had a puncture; this was the very thing we were dreading before the trip, his tyre wasn’t flat though, so we decided to fill air up and keep filling it afeter every few kms,hoping to find someone to change it. Sherry and me tailed Amar and countless stops later just before darkness fell we found a guy, who helped us remove the tube. And between all this we climbed over Fotula

Sherry and me tailing Amar witht a pump

All hands on deck puncture repair...

Amar was "THE" guy when it came to breakdowns. He helped Akhil with the crappy bike at Khardung la and Pangong.

After this we all rode together in the dark, and dust and reached Kargil in the dead of the night. It had been an eventfull day an a tiring one, thank god we found a decent place in Kargil to bunk considering it was about 11:00 pm.
We had no idea about convoy timings next day and had to cross Zorji la.

Atop Kunzum La - Parikrama

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 06 Aug 2007 11:06:00 +0000

On top of Kunzum La, Bone breaking climb. This video courtsey Amar, everyone rides around this temple and so did we. It was damm windy ....

you can hear the birds chirping in the background after bout 50 secs :) ..

Riding to Khardung La

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Sun, 29 Jul 2007 08:07:00 +0000

This Video courtsey Apjoo.

Hez shaking Partly because of the cold and Partly coz hez high on Diamox :). Sandhu sliding and sherry pushing on Ice. Enroute Khardung La

Pangong Tso - Leh - Khardung La

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Sun, 29 Jul 2007 05:34:00 +0000

Day 8
every time the ride conversation comes up the most asked question is! "How many days did you reach Leh?" , and i calculate every time, i don't even remember because it doesn't matter, what we have been through ,getting to Leh, is what matters:

The rented bikes somehow managed to reach leh. We split in Leh into 2 groups. we (me, Sandhu Sherry) stayed for a night at the army mess and the others took up a hotel.

and yeah just before reaching Leh the road from Karu to Leh was so amazing, that we went berserk, all of us. :) what do you expect 7 days of butt ache and then you get a road like that: whose gonna hold back.
We had dinner with Capt Priyansh who was planning to cycle up the next day yo Kla, wonder what happened of him! because the day after we found out of fresh snow there.

Day 9
We had kept this as a rest Day, so we had a decent breakfast, In a German Bakery Gesmo i think. Excellent food.

Shopped in the Leh Market, it was rainy that day and we were shopping. i hated that portion of the trip.

Then finally some sanity prevailed and we went to Shanti Stupa.

Thiksey and Also Shey Palace here are the Pics.

The 2 storey Padm Sambhava Statue @Thiksey

Day 10
EUPHORIA: i do understand now, whats the meaning of this word.
We had to ride to Khardung La today. Some of us had planned to do Nubra as well which we could not.

When we started i had no special feeling, for Apjoo this was it. He had missed Pangong just so he could ride to Kla, in fact he rode from Delhi just for this, and his excitement was evident: he was ripping ahead of all of us, high on Diamox: he wanted to get there quickly.

This without a doubt was the BEST day in the ride.."Paisa vasool day" and you will know after looking at the Pics.

I don't know about others but on reaching the top i felt so much of euphoria, i don't know why?
Highest Motor able road in the World: 18380 Ft : half way to Mt Everest wow!, I'm sure my emotions got the better of me a couple of times.

till now we rode over Stones Mud, dirt, boulders ,slush gravel etc etc, Today it was going to be Ice. yeeehaaa

It was so cold our fingers turned blue despite the protection, this stop was just to warm our hands, sherry at the back using the engine, Sandhu on the right tucked away for engine heat and me gripping the silencer.

Waiting at South Pullu Sliding on Ice

Akhils rented bike in the meanwhile was giving trouble, Amar Pandey and Akhil were way behind repairing a broken accel cable. We were stopped at South Pullu because the route was not clear due to snow. Thank god for the Bukhari at the army post we had a breather from the cold.

Kunal on the other hand after the puncture at Pangong decide to skip this ride altogether..he was sleeping at the hotel :)

So that was our euphoric moment at Kla.

We headed back to Leh later in the day after spending more than 2 hours on top and buying souvineers. Apjoo bought a whole crokery set.

Chandigarh - Lahul and Spiti - Pangong Tso

noreply@blogger.com (Joshi) — Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:58:00 +0000

We had all started this trip with different or no expectations and emerged with a completely new experience. (I think i can say this for all involved)

It was a tough ride no rosy picture, at times i had the feeling if we had bitten into more than we could chew, and i have no qualms in accepting "ki phat gayi thi" but at the same time there were moments that made it magical, the Snow at Khardungla, the solitude at More plains( yeah there was dust too ;-) ) Kinnaur Landscape (Tunnels on the road... remember) and the Joy of getting a 20 ft stretch of Asphalt when we covered 60 kms in 5 hours.

For me it started on the 29th of July, Me and Apjoo.We started late.... :) . And i had this problem throughout the ride ...i just kept getting Late all the time :)) (no offence meant guys)

We had an uneventfull ride upto chandigarh, burnt ouselves in the HOT sun, Reached Amar's place in Chandigarh and relaxed a bit. Spent the Night at Sherry's place.

Sandhu had reached chandigarh, Sherry late in the evening and me and Apjoo too Amar of course stayed in chandigarh.

Here are the 6 of us

Me-Gurgaon (troubled by time, i coudnt sort this out thru out the ride :))

Apjoo- Gurgaon (he had everything packed candel,umbrella: you name it, he had it)

Sandhu - Pune (he coudnt find gloves that fit him "Yeti beware")

Sherry- Bangalore (He was our tracking beacon)

Amar - Chandigarh (talk less ride more)

Pandey- Kolkata (Where the F&*& is he, no horn, no mirror all all you see is: him zip past)

Day 1

Our start from Chandigarh had to be on time, 4 :00 am sharp: Kharcham was a long way away.
Pandey reached Chd only early morning , his flight delayed, and we put him straight on the bike for a long day ahead. (sorry Pandey :) )
We started at 6:00 i think..

Sherry, Apjoo and Amar waiting for the ride to begin

Sherry, Apjoo and Amar STILL waiting for it to begin

It started getting quite cold on way to Narkhanda. A hearty lunch at Narkhanda and we were off again. After that came the entrance to Kinnaur the landscape change delightfully after that. Roads cut out of the mountains made us feel like kids, jostling for a photograph.

Sandhu and Sherry sharing the Lime light: sorry tunnel light

we reached Kharcham after a 12 hour ride and some bad roads towards the end. Her's my landing place for the night where everyone posed to claim it their own

Day 2
It started Raining on Day 2. Thanks to Sandhu we covered all our bags in blue tarpaulin that lasted us the entire trip, no to mention the different sized plastics he had for mob. phones cameras and garbage bags.. he had it all Thanks Sandhu.
This was the only day we coudnt complete outr trip to Kaza and halted at Tabo, and thankfully at that. Tabo is a great place to stay :small village: Phirangs: a german Bakery: Israieli and italian food: a very old monastery and a lot of peace and quiet. Tabo is a great place to stay, the monastery offers decent rooms and there is another guest house, Himanchal tourism i think, which was unfortunately overbooked by the army so we could not get it.here are 2nd day shots.

Apjoo riding on slush

This was a nice place: huge waterfall, we clicked a few here, and all 6 of us are here from Left to right Amar, Me,Apjoo,Sherry,Pandey,Sandhu

No Yeti boots that, Rain protection for Sherry! :)

The terrain was bad but the Views were Awesome

Tabo Town and Tabo Monastery on the right.

Day 3

We began early this day to cover up the lost distance last day. Only to find out that the Kaza pet pump will open at 9:00. We had to wait for Petrol.

We started off as soon as we topped up on petrol towards Kye monastery.

Just check out the view of the KYE monastery in the background.This was the first monastery we visited and it was great, a must see if you come this side.

The road on the right straight up to Kye and Kibber, turn left on the bridge towards Kunzum Top, i think Kunzum was 78 km from here, and boy what a bumpy stretch that was after a few kms from the bridge.

We stopped at this dhaba before Losar to Have Tea and i started feeling a headache...the bike wasnt doing more than 70 at full throttle in 5th gear, "we were high up" twinkle*

The road upto Kunzum La was a stone path, it was bumpy and steep.

towards Kunzum La

Kunzum Finally on the right, every vehicle goes round this temple before leaving.

But our troubles were'nt over, the ride to Chandrataal was bad, stoney bumpy,wet and steep too. We managed to reach Chandrataal on an awfully cold evening. It seemed to be a never ending track to chandrataal. Its on the Detour towards Batal

The road/river enroute Chandrataal

Sherry lost his silencer on this road

Frankly its not worth going on a bike, If you want to trek there its good, it isnt something you will miss if you ride through there, there are better places. Its famous i think because it lies on the trekking route. Although we had food and and tents to survive the night at chandrataal, we were thankfull to god to find this Dhaba there in Tents, he had food, beding, everything you can ask for in a place like that.
Oh and Just for information he opens 4 moths a year july to Sept, so if you plan to go there he will be there
The Dhaba that made us comfy in Chandrataal (Chandra dhaba).

Chandrataal for you. Chandrataal was at the same height approx as Kunzum, so we were camping really high. Some of us were down with Headache. One of us. :)

Day 4

Today we had to reach Keylang and Hit the Manali Leh Highway. The ride to Gramphoo was bumpy. We covered 60 kms in 5 hours,

This the reason we took that much time. :).Reaching
the manali leh higway was such a relif, we found this road
a nice ride compared to Lahul spiti roads.

Relif after reaching the manali Leh Highway. and it was a freezing day to ride. Snow on all mountain tops and clouds: it was like a freezer in many parts. the wind was really biting in.

We stayed at Chandra Bhaga in Keylong HP tourism guest house. It was really nice. The shot on the left was from my Bed in the 6 room dorm we got. I managed the best location again he he..

Day 5

Had to reach Pang today. The first Pass was Baralach La: we were all excited. Enroute were Deepak Tal and Suraj Tal.

Deepak Tal on the left

Suraj Tal on the Right

The Ascent to Baralachla was smooth roads, I almost missed the top it was somewhat of a dissapointment. Just a little board, i guess we were expecting too much :)

Amazing Scenery enroute to Pang this was one of the best rides especially towards the end, terrific mountains of Dirt. Also Gata loops, Nakee La and Lachulang La pass. Here are the pics

Finally we reached Pang, to find out that it was one of the highest transit camps in the world at over 16000 ft i guess. Pandey and Apjoo HAD oxy shots there and were HIGH on it.

Day 6

We could have reached Leh today, but we stopped at Karu so we could go to Pang Gong Tso the next day, a relaxed day of riding with Mori plains and Tanglang la enroute.

We got covered heat to toe and insides as well in loose dirt in mori plains, i got stuck behind a truck and he made me pay for it. It was difficult riding on half a foot of fluffy dust, the bike was skiddin all over, wasn't for long though.

Tanglang La ("unbelieaveable is not it?") was also a steep climb, the road was also a bit rough towards the top.

Mori Plains: Tanglang la: Just before Karu

Day 7

Destination Pang gong Tso today. And the mighty Chang La enroute. A tough climb that sucked our Petrol, i ran low on it while returning and was paranoid about it. Sherry too ran low but his bike made it back. I got some extra fuel from Some guys who had come from Bangalore. Snow at Changla was awesome.

Tip: carry extra Fuel to Pangong Tso lake, Changla is thirsty as hell.

Pangong Tso was Awesome, unfortunately Our Cameras did not do justice to the place. Akhil and Kunal had also joined us here on there rented bikes.

PS do not come on rented bikes here they are a pain, Kunals bike got punctured and it was a nothing short of a miracle that Akhils bike was running, all credit to Army EME engineers.

We stayed at the beautifull Tangtse mess that day and next day were off to Leh.

The remainder of the Log Later. Damm it was a long trip

The photostream which by no means is complete is at
http://picasaweb.google.com/nitin1joshi/LahulSpitiLeh

this is just my Camera we plan to collate it and put it on the later so till then enjoy these shots.

PS: SPL mistakes should be overlooked! i'm really bad at this :) ..