Choco Spot

The Birth of a Pod

2013-03-12T19:24:00.000-07:00

Ripe Forastero Pod

2013-03-11T23:55:00.000-07:00

The Science of Chocolate

2013-03-11T20:50:00.002-07:00

Fermentation: Where Flavor Begins to Take Shape

2013-03-10T01:12:00.001-08:00

Fermentation is one of the most important processes for the production of fine chocolate. During fermentation the chocolate flavor precursors are formed. A good fermentation guarantees that during the roasting phase precursors will react and form the chocolate flavor.

Pod Ready to be Harvested

Due to the nature of different cocoa trees the fermentation process may suffer variation in its duration. Criollo trees usually require less fermentation time. Most commonly in 2 to 3 days will be enough to achieve the desired results. Forastero beans on the other hand require more time. They follow more or less the process described below.

Fermentation starts right after the pods are broken, and put in big wooden boxes. It consists of two phase: the first being anaerobic and the second being aerobic. During the anaerobic phase the boxes need to be sealed with banana tree leaves. Banana tree leaves contain yeasts, and they are fundamental for the destruction of the rich in sugar mucilage. The attack promoted by the yeast on the pulp cell creates voids and promotes the release of cell fluids. This process is known as “sweating”. After sweating the first phase of fermentation reaches it is end. It usually happens within 24h- 36h.

Opening of the Pods

The aerobic phase, initiates with the penetration of more air due to the void created in the wall pulp after the sweating. By this time the banana leaves are removed, and the mucilage is revolved allowing the penetration of air. With the decline of the yeast population there is a surge in the presence of Lactic Acid Bacteria, which will increase the temperature of the cocoa mass.

With the increase in temperature the Lactic Acid Bacteria are replaced by Acetic Acid Forming Bacteria. Acetic Acid bacteria will be responsible for the acidulation of cocoa beans as well as further increase in the cocoa mass temperature. Acetic Acid Bacteria play a key role in the chocolate flavor. During this phase, there is a breakdown of proteins, which is crucial for the chocolate flavor. The products originated from the pulp fermentation will enter slowly in the bean promoting enzymatic reactions. By the end of the aerobic phase the seed will be dead do to the high temperatures and acidity. It may between 5 to 6 days for the process to end.

Beans Near Final Stage of Ferment

Cocoa beans need perfect fermentation to yield good chocolate. If it is done inappropriately it will develop little chocolate flavor even after been roasted. When done in excess it generate hammy and putrid flavor.

The fermentation causes the beans to change from white color to light brown. When the process reaches its end the beans are ready to be put to drying, and later on they will be packed and sold to the chocolate artisans.

Words of Wisdom From the Masters

2013-03-09T17:07:00.001-08:00

Master Chocolatiers Francois Pralus and Stephane Bonnat sharing their thoughts about cocoa production, chocolate and life.

Chocolate Bars that You Can Never Go Wrong With

2013-03-09T16:58:00.000-08:00

So not sure what to try first? Below is a selection of my favorite bars.

Javablond from Indonesia ($5.50)

Limited Edition by Domori ($6.25)

Tradition in itself, from the beans to the Bar, with
an exquisite flavor by Bonnat ($18.95)

One of the few high quality chocolate from Brasil($12.25)

Another treasure made from Brazilian Beans by Valrhona.
Still very hard to find

From exclusive Peruvian Beans from Porcelana Tree ($15.50)

How to Taste Chocolate

2013-03-09T14:57:00.001-08:00

How to taste Chocolate

Find a time of the day that you can relax, and that nothing will disturb you. Turn off your phone if you can. Avoid to have any strong flavor food or mints before the trial. I would suggest 30 minutes to an hour. Your taste buds need to be free to appreciate all the richness in flavor. Start by choosing no more than three different kinds of chocolates, and in particular choose a chocolate that you particularly like to be your benchmark. It is important to compare chocolate bars with similar percentage. So you can taste the nuances that the different bars offer in that percentage range of cocoa content. Keep a glass of water nearby so you can clean your mouth between the trials.

You should proceed following the steps behind:

Analyze the packaging
See what is the origin of the product, what kind of materials do they add to the chocolate. Fine chocolate bars include only sugar, cocoa butter, and soy lecithin
Break a little piece of the bar, and smell it. By any chance do not put it straight into your mouth. Try to identify different scents. For instance some bars have a more caramelized smell, others have a more fuity smell. This is also the time where you can identify the different consistency of the chocolate. Some fine bars by the nature of the cocoa trees are more soft others are harder.
After smelling it, put the little piece in your mouth and chew it a bit. Try to spread it all over your tongue and leave the rest of the content to melt. During this process try to identify the main taste of the bar as well as the nuance tastes.
Take notes of your finds, rinse your mouth with water and move to the next bar.

Some brands like Valrhona make available a tasting wheel or a tasting table to help the chocolate aficionado to understand and better select the bars.

Chocolate Tasting Wheel by Chocopolis

Tasting Wheel by Valrhona