automotive

Perfecting Motorcycle Riding

2011-06-01T05:09:00.000-07:00

The racetrack isn't the place to learn to stop. Track days are expensive, time-consuming events that happen only a few times a year but you can ride around an empty or abandoned parking lot for free nearly any day of the year. Save yourself time and money by practicing your braking and steering inputs in a parking lot so you can spend your track time working on high-speed maneuvering. All you will need is an empty parking lot that is free from gravel and oil, a measuring tape, an hour of your time and some cones or chalk or some other way of marking the ground.

Measure out 10-feet and mark both ends of the line with a cone or chalk and draw a circle around the line. Measure another 10-foot line that touches the edge of the previous circle and mark the ends of the line with a cone or chalk and draw a circle around the line. You should have two 10-foot circles side by side. Begin riding around the first circle at 15 mph.

You should be looking at the other end of the circle as you spin around the circle. Try increasing your speed slightly. Does the bike feel more or less stable at higher speeds? Change your body position so that the bike is leaned over but you are sitting upright with your weight resting on the outside foot peg. Does the bike feel more or less stable the farther the bike is pitched over and the more upright you sit?

Move on to trying a figure 8 by riding clockwise around one circle and counter-clockwise around the other circle. This will help you ride with your feet light on your toes to aid how well you transition from one side to the other. Now we move on to practicing braking. Draw a chalk line and mark a line off every six inches behind that line for 4 feet. Ride at 25 mph with our heads looking up at the horizon and our peripheral vision searching for the line.

As we approach the line we apply the front and rear brakes and stop in as little time as possible. Did you keep your head up, staring at the horizon the whole time? If not repeat the process until you feel comfortable looking off at the horizon even as the bike dips forward under heavy braking. Notice how and where your tire finally came to a stop. Repeat this drill until your can reduce the amount of space it takes you to go from 25 mph to a controlled stop. Try applying more or less front and rear brakes until you feel the tires start to go into a slide. This is the upper threshold of your braking and a parking lot, not racetrack, is the best place to learn to stop better.

Novitec Tunes the Alfa Romeo 8C

2011-06-01T05:05:00.000-07:00

The German-based car tuning specialists at Novitec have a long history of tuning Italian cars. The company is divided into a number of branches based on the type of cars they modify. There's Novitec Tridente for Maserati cars, Novitec Rosso for Ferrari, and for the other Italian automakers such as Fiat and Alfa Romeo, there's Novitec.

One of the most celebrated designs to come from an Italian automaker in the past decade has been the Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione. The car was built to honor the eight-cylinder racing cars at the height of Alfa's motorsport success. The 8C proved to be immensely popular, and from this popularity, spawned a convertible variant. Just in time for the warm summer months, Novitec has introduced a tuning program for the Alfa Romeo 8C Spyder.

Since the topless sports car is roughly based on the Maserati GT and uses a similar engine, Novitec called in their Maserati division to tune the engine. The 4.7-liter V-8 engine was fitted with a supercharger driven by the engine's crankshaft via cogged-tooth belt. The supercharger was designed to provide an even power band, even at low speeds.

Maximum boost pressure is set at 0.37 BAR (5.37 PSI). In addition to the supercharger itself, Novitec Tridente has also added a water-to-air intercooler with dedicated radiator and larger fuel injectors. The entire engine upgrade is completed with advanced car tuning, in which Novitec has recalibrated the injection and ignition mapping for the optimum power output.

Since the Alfa Romeo uses a Maserati-based 4.7-liter V-8, it also boasts one of the most attractive exhaust notes in the industry. To make it even better, Novitec has installed a stainless steel sport exhaust with a flap system that varies the volume of the note depending on the engine speed and throttle input.

The result of the engine tuning is an astonishing 600 horsepower (441 kW) at 7,300 RPM and 433.63 lb-ft. (588 Nm) of torque at 5,400 RPM; an increase of 150 horsepower (110 kW) over stock. This added power helps improve the acceleration time for the Alfa Romeo 8C by cutting the 0-62 mph time down to 3.9 seconds. Top speed is also increased from the stock 180 mph (290 k/h) to 189.52 mph (305 km/h), making it the fastest Alfa Romeo model.

Novitec has kept the body and overall design of the Alfa Romeo 8C Spyder stock, as to preserve the already popular appearance. The only exterior modification for the 8C is Novitec's three-piece NA3 wheels. Measuring 9Jx21 up front and 11.5Jx22 at the rear, the five double-spoke wheels are fitted with sporty Pirelli 255/30 ZR21 front and 315/25 ZR22 rear tires. Finishing the stance is a threaded coil-over suspension with adjustable ride height and damper rates.

Novitec will also custom tailor the interior with a large selection of fine leather and alcantara for Alfa Romeo 8C Spyder owners.

Motorcycle Frame Sliders

2011-06-01T04:59:00.000-07:00

Insurance is a good thing. Whether it's a full coverage policy or a cable locking your motorcycle to a pole in bad neighborhood, if buying or installing something reduces your anxiety then it is a good. To help ease your anxieties build a set of frame sliders to protect your motorcycle in the event of a low side to a parking lot tip over thanks to an errant driver. This project will cost less then $30 and you will need to purchase the following: 4 skateboard wheels or roller skate wheels with bearings, threaded rod, four nuts, a hacksaw, pliers, hammer, random washers and loctite.

Start by going to a local thrift store in search of an old skateboard or roller skates. The condition of the wheels doesn't matter as their sole purpose is to be sacrificed to save your bike from getting damaged. Once you have the wheels, go to a hardware store and purchase at least 4 feet of 5/8th-inch threaded rod. Purchase four nuts that screw onto the threaded rod and some loctite. If you don't have pliers, a hammer or a hacksaw, purchase them now.

First, stick the threaded rod through your motorcycle's hollow axle. Slip a wheel over each end of the axle and include a little extra space for the width of the nuts. It is better to have a little extra room then not enough. Once you have the length required, mark the cut off point with your finger and remove the threaded rod. Spin a nut onto the threaded rod to the point where your finger is marking and proceed to cut the threaded rod with a hacksaw. When you are finished cutting, spin the nut off the freshly cut edge to chase the threads.

Repeat this process for the other wheel. Assemble one side with a wheel and a nut and feed the threaded rod through the axle. Install the other wheel and nut and check for fit. Use miscellaneous washers to shim up the rod to allow the wheels to spin freely, which will help them survive the crash better. Once everything is installed, drip some loctite on the end of the nuts and tighten the nuts snug.

Cut the threaded rods flush with the nut then make two cuts forming an X perpendicular to the rod's threads. Hit the X with a hammer to deform the rod's threads and ensure the skateboard wheels don't vibrate loose. Repeat this process for the other wheel. This is just another way to improve your motorcycle experience through making your own parts. The next time you come outside in the morning to find someone knocked over your motorcycle, nothing important will be damaged, which is one less thing to be anxious about.

Motorcycle Audio - Accessorize With A Helmet With Speakers

2011-06-01T04:56:00.000-07:00

Motorcycle riders are very much interested in accessorizing their helmets. In fact, there are many options available in the market if you too are interested in this work. Having a simple helmet makes a person feel bored but at the same time if it is accessorized and many useful and functional accessories are added to it, they feel much better wearing it. There are many accessories that are used to enhance or beautify motorcycle helmets. One of the most talked about thing is helmet with speakers.

Motorcycle audio has been the one of the most talked about things these days. The best use of it is when you are trapped in a jam or stuck in the traffic. Listening to your favorite music will also not make you irritated and frustrated. Helmet with speakers are of great use when you are driving alone on a long road and in a remote area. There was a time when music was allowed and played only in cars. But now motorcycle audio has made everything completely different and the approach is special and typical as well.

The main thing is that the music that is played would not distract other riders and this is also very important. Helmet with speakers allows the rider to listen to the music and no one else gets disturbed by this. The helmets are also subject to maintenance and you should take utmost care of cleaning and keeping your helmet updated. There are many ways in which you can accessorize your helmet. However motorcycle audio means a completely different thing and enjoying the music while riding a bike is a new and unique experience, no doubt.

There are different options when you opt for motorcycle audio and depending on your preferences and budget you can choose the one that suits you the best. You can have the mp3 audio or the satellite radio or you can even have a CD driver as audio system in motorcycle. You have options to listen whatever you like and even add up more and more alternatives if you wish.

There are many capabilities attached to satellite radio and you can opt for the one that is most liked by you. It is advisable that you buy such a system that can be upgraded easily. This is because there is advancement in technology always and you need to be updated to keep pace with the advancing world.

Mobile Auto Detailers Can Now Take Payments Via iPad - No Portable Credit Card Terminal Needed

2011-06-01T04:51:00.000-07:00

One of the most difficult things for a mobile auto detailer is getting paid. Many folks will have you come to their home or office and clean their cars every week, and then have you send them a bill. Your best customers will leave the keys and the money at the front desk at the end of the month or housekeeper, as you clean their car. Others will send you a company check, and sometimes it takes a little while for them to remember to put that in the mail to you.

You can talk to just about any auto detailer, and often when they are done detailing a car, the customer will ask them if they take credit cards or ATM. If they don't, there is often a little bit of a problem and the auto detailer has to wait until the person can come up with the cash or write them a check. That's unfortunate, because as a mobile service business you have to keep moving and making money. Chances are you also have to pay your workers, and therefore you must maintain adequate cash flow.

There was a very interesting article recently on Kurzweil's Accelerating Intelligence Online titled "Square launches iPad point-of-sale service" on May 24, 2011 - partially republished from InformationWeek on May 23, 2011. the article stated; "The cost to merchants is a 2.75% transaction fee for swiped credit cards or 3.5% + 15 for credit card numbers entered manually. "We think that this obsoletes credit terminals and cash registers," said Square CEO Jack Dorsey."

Luckily, Google payments is also coming out with a similar program and working in conjunction with VeriSign, and folks will be allowed to pay online, via their mobile personal tech device such as an iPad, tablet computer, or smart phone.

This is a bonus to anyone who operates a mobile service business, and having been in the auto detailing industry for a number of years, I can't think of a better technology to come available for this sector.

It will surely increase sales, and make things very easy, that is if you are wise and sign up for such a service so that people can deposit money directly into your bank account, or through PayPal. Being able to collect mobile payments means you can make more money, maintain your cash flow, and not waste your time trying to collect, or wait for a check to come in the mail. Indeed I hope you will please consider all this and think on it. If you run a mobile service business, and you have any comments or questions, please shoot me an e-mail.

Making a Cafe Racer

2011-06-01T04:43:00.000-07:00

Across Europe, post-WWII veterans removed every part that wasn't necessary and modified their motorcycles to make them faster to race outside of cafes for bragging rights. Known as Rockers or Ton Up Boys, they were the British equivalent of American Graffiti and their café racer motorcycles became synonymous with the brash men who raced each other on motorcycles from one café to another at speeds near 100 mph, known as "the ton." So if you are looking to convert your vintage motorcycle into something more café raced out, start by doing some research.

Originally café racers were British twins like Triumphs, Nortons and BSA, but if your motorcycle's look looks a little tired then spruce it up with a café racer look. One of the first things café racers did was remove any unneeded part. Unless the law requires them, remove conveniences like mirrors and turn signals as well as chain guards, fenders and superfluous gauges or switches. If you are going to use a mirror, buy a retro Napoleon Bar End Mirror. Keep track of your speed by wiring up a minimalist bicycle speedometer for $15. After removing all of the bike's unneeded weight, café racers sought performance to go faster then the next guy. Removing their stock handlebars, flipping them end over end and reinstall them upside down, gave café racers a more aerodynamic riding position to increase the likelihood of reaching "a ton," or 100 mph. Modern riders can buy a set of Clubman bars to give their bike the same look.

To further aid their aerodynamics, café racers would install small gas tanks since they were only racing about town. Look at online sites like Craigslist or eBay to find a smaller tank that fits your look. To further solidify the café look your bike is going to need a single, stainless steel headlight that mounts to your fork stanchions. Expect to spend $50 for a headlight that uses a modern H-4 bulb and another $20 for the accompanying bracket. Now that your bike is looking and riding the part make it sound like a café racer by removing some of the packing in the exhaust cans. This will help the bike breath a little easier while making the bike sound a bit sharper. Top off the look by getting yourself a black leather jacket, tight Levi jeans and leather boots so you can look as authentic as your bike does now.

Make Life An Adventure - On Two Wheels

2011-06-01T04:33:00.000-07:00

I had the opportunity to meet some of the world's great motorcycle adventurers recently, and the really interesting thing was just how much they are like everyone else. The difference is that whereas we all dream, they have acted on their dreams.

I was down in Amado, AZ, at the Overland Expo, which is a gathering intended to bring people who dream about adventure touring together with people who do it, and with vendors who make products geared specifically for this type of excursion. The place was packed.

Adventure touring, or overlanding as they call it, is said to be the fastest growing niche in motorcycling, with popular models being the Kawasaki KLR650, the Suzuki DR-Z400, the Yamaha WR450F, among others. Unlike road touring, big power is not the people doing these rides look for first. In fact, as a simple rule of thumb you can ponder this adage: If you can't pick it up by yourself it's not an adventure motorcycle.
To listen to some of these people tell their stories of their adventures is both inspiring and daunting. There was Ted Simon, who wrote Jupiter's Travels about his four-year ride around the world. Also Lois Pryce, whose ride from Alaska to the tip of South America is recounted in her book Lois on the Loose, and whose trip from England to Cape Town, South Africa, is told in Red Tape and White Knuckles. Both those rides were on 250cc Yamaha machines. And there were others.

It wasn't just the distances they covered, but also the seemingly insurmountable problems they somehow surmounted and incredible struggles their journeys at times required. Not to mention outright dangers, ranging from passing through countries at war to running out of gas in the middle of the Sahara Desert with nobody else around for miles to being jailed by local "authorities" intent on separating you from your cash. How many among us have the gumption to push a heavily laden motorcycle through miles of knee-deep mud or ride a road that rains have turned into a river through an area where anything off the road holds the potential of triggering land mines?

Fortunately, it isn't necessary to risk your life in order to go adventuring on your motorcycle. The people who write the books are the ones who have gone to extremes. For the rest of us who aren't as hard core, all it really takes is to take a week's vacation and go ride somewhere you've never been before. Sure it still takes preparation. If you've never ridden a that KLR 650 on goat trails you had best get some practice before setting off on a seven-day ride through the Rocky Mountains. You'd also better talk to some people who have done these things before about the right kind of tents, sleeping bags, and other gear you'll need.

But in the end it's all about challenging yourself. Challenging yourself to make the commitment to go, to do the necessary research and preparation, and then to actually ride the ride. Many people shake their heads and tell themselves they just can't do these kinds of things: They have jobs, families, commitments. They don't have the money for the bikes and gear or they can't take the time off.

These are valid concerns but one common theme cropped up again and again at the expo: If you really want to do this kind of adventuring you will organize your life to make it possible. Do you really need a 5,000-square-foot house when a 2,000-square-foot house would free up enough money to buy the bike and the gear and leave you with a much smaller mortgage that would then free up more money for more trips? In short, it's priorities. Do you have real dreams, or are they fantasies? Real dreams really can come true, but you are the one who has to make that happen.

New Motorcycle Handlebars

2011-06-01T04:25:00.000-07:00

Whether you are looking to get more leverage, a better riding posture or looking to give your modern motorcycle a vintage look; installing handlebars is one of the easiest and most notable modifications you can do with $75 and 50 minutes. You will need basic hand tools. First, think about the goals of your ideal handlebars. While Clubman style bars look great and impart an English circa 1960s look to your bike, they are uncomfortable for longer rides. Think about your goals and choose set of bars that helps you obtain your goals.

Start by buying a set of handlebars and a new pair of grips. Next, loosen the bolt or screw that keep your left and right-hand switches attached to the handlebars. Remove these switches from the bars and let them hang by the wayside for the moment. Remove the clutch and brake lever and the perches they both sit in. Zip-tie the brake master cylinder to the upper triple tree clamp or some other location so long as it doesn't hang off the bike.

The throttle tube is attached to the throttle cables so you will have to slacken the cables to unclip the throttle tube and remove the tube from the handlebars. Use a razorblade to cut the old grip off the throttle tube, which we need to reuse. Install the larger of the two new grips overtop the throttle tube and secure the grip stationary with safety wire.

Remove the old handlebars via the four pinch bolts located on top of the triple trees. Put the new handlebar in the clamps and hand tighten the four pitch bolts. Slide the new grip over the left handlebar and secure the grip via safety wire. Slide the throttle tube with new grip over the right handlebar and reattach the throttle cables. Properly tension the throttle cables and make sure you have routed the cables correctly.

Install the right and left switch housing and tighten their accompanying bolts/screws. Loosely install the clutch lever and brake master cylinder and lever. Sit on the bike and figure out your preferred angle of handlebars, clutch lever and brake lever. Once you found a position you like tighten all of their bolts to specifications. Whether you are looking to make your motorcycle more fashionable, functional or fun, a new set of handlebars is the easiest way to make your motorcycle more you.

How To Get Your Motorcycle License - The Steps Involved

2011-06-01T04:18:00.000-07:00

If you're thinking about driving a motorcycle for the first time this year, you better think about whether or not you can legally do so first. In order to legally ride a motorcycle, you have to have either a motorcycle permit or a motorcycle license. Here are the options that you have for getting a motorcycle license.

One nice thing about the process of getting a motorcycle license is that there is more than one option for doing so. You can either choose to go directly for your license by taking the rider test, or you can go through an educational course in which you learn important riding skills and safety knowledge.

Before you can do either though, you have to get a motorcycle permit which allows you to legally ride a motorcycle on learning/instructional basis. This permit is not a full fledged license so there are limitations on your driving. For example, you can't drive a motorcycle with a passenger on board. If you have any questions about the limitations you face with permit, check the rules and regulations within your state.

The Motorcycle Safety Course

If you've never driven a motorcycle before and feel that you would benefit from learning important rider skills and safety tips, then perhaps the rider course is the way to go. This type of course is typically held at a local technical college, or their may be held at local businesses. Check around in your area if you cannot find one at a local college. If you live in a bigger city, you will probably have more luck finding one.

During the safety course you will learn many new driving skills that will help you become a better driver in real life. Not only that, but you will also learn many different safety tips and techniques that will help make you safer on the road and more aware of your surroundings while driving.

Upon successful completion of the rider course, you will be presented with you motorcycle license and you will be free to ride wherever and whenever you like.

The Motorcycle Rider Test

If you don't want to mess with taking a rider course because you feel you are experienced enough as it is, then you can go straight to taking your rider test with the local department of transportation in your state. One thing worth mentioning is that many states are eliminating the rider test, ultimately forcing you to go through a rider course in order to get your license.

Typically there will be a written portion of the test and then an actually driving portion of the rider test. In order to get your license you will have to pass both portions. During the rider test you will be evaluated on a number of different riding skills such as starting, braking, signaling, turning, speed, awareness, and motorcycle handling in certain types of specialized turns.

How To Fix Your Car Into A Showstopper

2011-06-01T04:13:00.000-07:00

Modifying your car can drastically change its appearance from a regular daily driver to one that resembles a racing hot rod. It doesn't matter if you drive a domestic vehicle or a foreign one; with the proper mods and tweaks any vehicle can look amazing. Fixing up your automobile can also be a lot of fun. Common mods include lowering, adding some blinged out rims and adding in a state of the art stereo system with lots of speakers.

The easiest way to add a new dimension to your auto is to install some sweet rims. In order to get a feel for what type of rims you prefer you can surf auto blogs online and take a look at some sweet modified rides. Perhaps you want eye catching chrome ones or perhaps more subtle alloy wheels suit you more. Be sure not to choose wheels that weigh a ton since these can actually affect the speed of your car. Alloy wheels are best if performance is important to you. Make sure not to pick wheels that are too big or too small since this can hinder overall performance.

Keeping your auto is clean is very important if you want a good looking ride. Always pick up after yourself and make sure to clean your vehicle on a weekly basis. Wipe down the exterior with a cloth and wax it on a regular basis. Vacuum the floors and mat with a portable vacuum cleaner. Don't forget to wipe down the wheels too in order to keep them looking new. Air freshener is another nice touch to make your car smell nice.

Here are a few more easy ways to spice up your vehicle. You can tint your windows if you want an edgier and more aggressive appearance. Always check the local rules in your city in regards to tinting as it may be illegal in some areas. Some clear lights can also make your auto stand out instead of using the standard yellow lights that most cars come with.

Depending on your budget, you can also work on the entertainment aspect and install an amazing sound system. Another option is installing a DVD player and adding in screens in the headrests which allows passengers to enjoy movies and television. Make sure to get frequent hand washes and get it waxed and polished on a regular basis. You can also change the color by painting it or perhaps incorporating a design, such as stripes on the exterior.

No matter what changes you decide to make, remember that fixing up your car is supposed to be fun. So make sure you have fun and don't be afraid to show off your ride once it's in showroom condition.

How Harley Davidson Has Revolutionized The World

2011-06-01T04:05:00.000-07:00

Think motorcycles and the name "Harley Davidson" comes to mind. Harley Davidson is synonymous with world class top quality motorbikes today. Harley Davidson was founded in 1901 when William Harley had a smacker of an idea - he thought it would be cool to attach a motor to a bicycle and the rest, as they say, is history!

A Brief History

William, together with his friend, Arthur Davidson started working on this project in a wooden shed, which had the worlds, "Harley-Davidson" scrawled on its door. Their tireless work resulted in the first Harley Davidson bike which was launched in the year 1903 - a mere two years after Harlet had thought of it!

And today, Harley Davidson is a force to reckon with. In the new millennium, this company flooded the global market with a stunning array of different types of motorcycles. What is more, this company is now the best and biggest in the motorcycle industry, owning 60% of the market share! And looking at the breakneck speed at which they are still growing, things are going to be this way for a long time to come.

Beware!

But, because of this, Harley Davidson is not really your average man's bike. It is pretty expensive and not everyone can afford it. But if you save up for a couple of years, it should be within your reach and I can guarantee that you will not regret this investment. But beware of fakes. There are a lot of people selling motorcycles which are branded under names such as "Harly Davidson" or something like that and you should be careful not to be tricked by any of them.

In fact, the best way to tell whether you are being fooled is by the price. These motorbikes are unbelievably cheap when you compare them to the original Harleys. There are plenty of legitimate Harley-Davidson dealers all over the world - in the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and just about anywhere in Asia.

Parts and Seconds

It is best to go to them. Once you have a bike, you might need a number of accessories and parts. Again, you should only stick to originals from Harley Davidson. In fact, you might even get your own custom built bike, complete with racks, chrome fenders, chrome screws and even bolt covers. You could even go a step ahead and have your bike painted in colors of your choice. But just be sure you're not being taken for a ride.

A lot of times you can buy used Harley Davidson for good prices, if you are not willing to be all that much. These too, can be found at authorized Harley David dealers'. In fact they give you a wide range of financing options and maintenance deals which you just cannot resist. Plus, you even get a document which certifies that your bike is legal. So if you are looking to save money but still want a Harley Davidson motorbike, then this is your best way to go about fulfilling your dream!

Heard Of Powder Coating

2011-06-01T03:57:00.000-07:00

It sounds cool, but do you know what it is and how you can apply it to your Suzuki Wheels? If not, then just keep on reading.

Powder Coating was first used in Australia in about 1967 - so it's not too long ago compared to all the other techniques that manufacturers use on their wheels and on their vehicles. The whole approach of Powder Coating involves applying dry paint to a specific part; in this case, you'd be applying the dry paint to OE Suzuki Verona Wheels that you have on your vehicle. You can put the paint on by one of two techniques:

1. One (or all) of the Suzuki Rims is (are) lowered into some sort of big bed of powder. OR,

2. The powdered paint that's set to go on the OE Wheels is electrostatically charged and then it is sprayed to the 2005 Suzuki Verona Wheels.

After this step, the Suzuki Verona Rims are then put into some sort of huge oven so that the powder particles can melt and also join together in order to make a continuous film. After this, the manufacturer can then choose from two main types of powder that are available to the surface finisher:

1. There's thermoplastic powders that are made to remelt when they're heated for a second time. OR,

2. There are thermosetting powders that don't remelt when they're heated for a second time. While the Factory Rims are in that huge oven, there's a chemical cross-linking reaction that's set off at the temperature of the oven. This is the reaction that gives the powder coating on the wheels most of its fancy and attractive characteristics.

Before you even start to powder coat your wheels, you have to make sure that the wheels you plan to coat are completely free of dirt and any kind of debris. One thing that you can do in order to make sure your wheels are prepared is to have the wheels (or wheel) sandblasted before it starts any process of powder coating. When you sandblast a wheel, it typically takes away all the left over traces of paint, polish, and even rust. Another thing that you can possibly do is to wipe the whole surface of the Suzuki Wheels with some sort of quality grease and wax remover before you start powder coating them.

I know you may think that this is a lot, but it's for your own good.

The best tip of powder coating wheels is to actually go with a company that's known for their powder coating. The best powder coating service always depends on how hot the oven is and if it's the right temperature. If you want to keep from any damages on the wheel when you install them back onto your car (which hopefully you do), you should use masking tape and put it inside and around the edge of the lug nut wrench that you're using for the installment of the rims.

Want another tip? Of course you do. Get some masking or painter's tape and place it around the bead of the wheel before you mount the tire onto the actual wheel. Doing this can keep from damaging the lip of the wheel. It even reduces the chances of re-powder coating the wheel because of some careless mistake that could have easily been fixed.

Headlight Bulbs The Eyes of the Car

2011-06-01T03:49:00.000-07:00

Ever wonder how would we see in the dark? Obviously, with the help of light. And how would we drive in the dark or during fog when the visibility is very low? Where would the light come from then? Well, headlights of the cars are what made for. The front headlights make the road visible in the dark or during low visibility. They not only help the driver to drive efficiently in the dark, but add to the beauty of the car too. The main function of these headlights is to lighten the road in front when it is difficult to drive during low visibility.

These beautiful headlights come in various shapes and colours. They could be chosen on the suitability to the car. The advent of the headlight goes back to 1800 when acetylene or oil was used. Then came the electric lights in 1900s which used the tungsten filament. Then to make these bulbs bright halogen bulbs were built. These bulbs have a longer life. These can be colourful headlight bulbs as they emit light of different shades. It happens basically due to change in temperature. When driving on highway, these shades are visible.

The latest of the category of headlight bulbs is the use of HID which emits the light that is three times the light emitted by halogen lamp. And due to highly focussed beams these bulbs have turned out to be most reliable in terms of safety and provide greater visibility for the driver.

It is always wise to change these bright headlight bulbs from time, as they are not for life. With time they get worn out or obsolete or start malfunctioning. There is wide range of these headlights available in after market. But it is always advisable to have some knowledge before getting them changed. One can always read the reviews about the parts that are published in different magazines and various websites.

To get these headlights bulbs installed it would be better if one hires a professional mechanic or the authorized service centre. Headlight bulbs are the reason we have greater visibility. Not only has it given a makeover to the car, but also a longer life it. Safe driving to an extent is possible only because of these life saving headlights.

The headlight bulbs from the time they arrived have been a useful part in any automobile vehicle. They have become the true eyes of our vehicle as they help us drive when it is difficult to see what is ahead of us. These at the same time also give a makeover to the vehicle providing a sense of pride to the owner of the vehicle. In true sense, they are lifesavers not only for cars, but for the drivers too.

Heading North on a Kawasaki KLR650s

2011-06-01T03:44:00.000-07:00

The opportunity just dropped into my lap. I have a buddy, Dan, who needs to get two Kawasaki KLR650s to Anchorage, AK, from Seattle. They need to be there by early August but will be in Seattle ready to go next week. Would I be interested in flying to Seattle and taking about 10 days to ride the 2,463 miles with him? Do I like to breathe? When do we leave?

OK, let's not get ahead of ourselves. There's a lot of planning and preparation needed here. And a lot of questions to get answers to.

First off, what is the road like going up there? I've heard stories of gravel roads that are a challenge on four wheels. While I've ridden street motorcycles for years I don't have a lot of experience on dual-sport bikes. What might be an interesting challenge on a day ride could get very, very old over the course of 10 days. I mean, the idea of a couple thousand miles on gravel would give me second thoughts.

As any good 21st Century American will do I turned to the internet. And it wasn't long before I found plenty of information. Apparently the road is paved most all the way up. However, roads in that part of the world get beat up pretty badly by the extreme weather conditions so there is always some construction/repair work going on. You can count on riding on pea gravel, larger gravel, and mud at least part of the way. Plus, pea gravel is the norm for turn-outs and parking lots all along the way.

I hate that stuff on my street bikes but that's why dual-sports like the KLR have knobby tires. They should do the job, although if we're running knobbies, how does that affect handling on the majority of the road that presumably will be good pavement? These are things I'm just not knowledgeable about.

Speaking of tires, though, I ran across other information saying that this road is really hard on tires. One fellow said that of six in his group, four of them had flats. I've never changed a tire on a motorcycle and wouldn't have any idea how to even begin. Fortunately my buddy Dan has lots of experience in this and I'll definitely be asking him if we'll be carrying spare tires and/or tubes and whatever tools needed to change tires. If he says no I'm definitely going to be asking why not.

Next, are we going to be staying in motels or hotels? I've never been very far north in Canada and I've never been to Alaska but camping would seem to be an iffy proposition. I know one guy who went to something called the Hyder Seek Rally, in the little town of Hyder, AK. It's billed as the world's smallest motorcycle rally because there are only so many riders who can be accommodated. Something to do with the bears roaming free in the area, you know.

What it really comes down to for me is that I really, really want to do this but I'd be lying if I said I don't have some apprehension. Dan has spent time in Alaska, Dan has ridden a lot of dual-sport, and Dan is an experienced mechanic. Myself, I score zero out of three. But he's confident. He tells me I'm a good rider and I'll pick up the KLR quickly and do just fine. And honestly, I believe that. But that doesn't make me less apprehensive. I guess this is what they call adventure riding. I'm looking for it to be one heck of an adventure.

Latest Options With Side View Mirrors

2011-06-01T03:40:00.000-07:00

A lot of us learned about "blind spots" during Driver Training classes. A lot more did not. Sadly it doesn't get covered or taught enough, because so many drivers are oblivious to these spots. Whether it's the driver that cruises right there for miles, slightly behind your rear doors, in the lane to the left or the right of you, or the driver who never takes a second to look there before changing lanes, it's scary.

I saw some NHTSA statistics that said that every 90 seconds there is a lane change accident in the US, and that every 9 minutes someone is injured or killed in one of these. That seems like WAY too many to me!

They are finally developing and marketing a Mirror product that will show the driver if another car is in one of his or her blind spots. They have also had a Mirror product that helps the guy in the blind spot know that a driver is about to change lanes into his path. Both are way over due, but way cool!!!

By attaching LED signal lights to the side view mirrors, you are able to see clearly that the vehicle you are slightly behind is thinking about changing lanes in your direction. These bright turn signal lights are both much brighter and a bit faster, all the better to alert you of their intentions.

Most recently, by utilizing multiple radar sensing devices on the vehicle, little icons are displayed in the inside rear view mirror showing that another car is in YOUR blind spot. I have also seen such technology in the in-dash GPS systems.

What a great technological advance!! At long last, our auto mirror can be used to help us see what's around us. And they can be used to alert those around us of what we're thinking of doing!!! Now the real challenge is still directing the driver's attention to such things and away from their iPhone or iPad!!! While we learned to keep our eyes constantly glancing at all 3 of our mirrors, I think that's a dead issue in Driver's Ed these days. And whether you learned it or didn't, most don't practice it. We all have to be SO aware of what's going on around us while we're speeding down the Interstate at 70 to 80 miles an hour. At such speeds, everything happens in an instant. I'm a believer that these new Mirror devices will prove to be fender and life savers. My hat's off to the latest car mirror technology!!!

Fog Light Bulbs Adding Looks and Safety to the Car

2011-06-01T03:36:00.000-07:00

Lighting for any car is imperative. Adequate lighting is a requirement for safe driving during poor visibility of roads. Therefore the installation of head lights and tail lights is required. But one must also install fog lights which are often ignored by people. These fog lights are used to provide the visibility during fog conditions.

These lights are considered as accessory parts to enhance the appearance of the cars. So many times people consider them as an added expenditure and often overlook the need. But from safety concern, these can be treated as essential. The reason is, the wavelength of fog lights is longer than headlight bulbs, and passes through fog easily providing better visibility. It would be advisable to mount these lights at the front and rear of the car. They are indication to the vehicle driving behind you.

These lights make great accessories to the car. They are available in aftermarket at affordable costs and in various colours like yellow. But the colour should be selected on the basis of clarity. One can also change them as they come in different shapes as suited best to the car. Led fog lights these days are in great demand these days.

These led fog lights have gained popularity mainly because of great lighting and cost efficiency. These led fog lights actually results in power saving and provides better visibility to help one drive in difficult situation. For example they help you detect any blockage or vehicle from a distance and hence add to safety.

But one should not go for low priced lights. High quality performance should be the criteria for selecting them, which makes them cost effective in long run.

The use of these lights should be done carefully when mounted at the back of car. One should never switch them on accidentally, which may cause undue accident, because the driver coming from behind may hit the emergency breaks resulting in collision.

One should not just go for a blind buy for these lights. Because of their easy availability, they should be bought after matching their suitability with the car. They should be fitted using the expert's help.

Enhance The Performance Of Your Car With Basic Auto Accessories

2011-06-01T03:31:00.000-07:00

Nowadays, the market is flooded with a wide range of advanced auto accessories. They can be the perfect add-ons for your car. You can beautify your cars and enhance their performance in an efficient manner with various auto accessories. You should buy them according to your needs and requirements. You also need to carry out a thorough market research before purchasing accessories for your car.

Now, we are going to talk particularly about auto accessories. Make sure that you read this article carefully. All these points could be of great help to you.

1. Auto Entertainment Accessories

You can increase the comfort and luxury of your car with auto entertainment accessories. A wide range of auto entertainment accessories are available in the market. You can make your journey and holiday road trips more interesting with various entertainment devices. Most of the cars are now fitted with advanced CD players.

2. Auto HD cameras for your cars

Most of the luxury cars are now fitted with HD car cameras. You can easily record great footages with these high definition accessories. You can easily locate the exact GPS location of any incident with HD car cameras.

3. Auto Car Stereo Systems

Car stereo systems are greatly preferred by many car owners. You must always look for the best option in the market. You must always buy advance featured stereo systems.

4. Auto Remote Starters

You can start your car from a distance with advanced remote car starters. Remote car starters are available in a wide range of features. You must always buy them according to your needs.

5. Auto iPod and iPhone adapters

If you are tired of listening to your old car radio, then you can simply install iPod and iPhone adapters in your car. You can also buy an FM transistor for your car. You can listen to your favorite songs while driving, using iPod adapters.

6. Dual Screen Players

Many car models are comprised with auto DVD players. These auto players are sold separately also. You can keep your kids entertained on the back seats with auto screen players. They can be installed easily. You can also take the help of professionals.

Auto car accessories can surely enhance the performance of your car in the best possible way. You need to be very careful while buying them for your vehicles. You will really have a great time with these advanced and efficient auto accessories.

Tinting Your Vehicle Windows

2011-06-01T02:56:00.000-07:00

Vehicle window tinting is one of the most popular car enhancements available today. Automotive specialty stores offer window tinting for all kinds of vehicles, including cars, SUVs, trucks, and RVs. Aside from aesthetic appeal, there are many reasons that vehicle owners choose to have tinted film placed on their windows.

Reduce heat and avoid overheating. Heat build-up in your car is not only uncomfortable for you and your passengers; it can put a strainon your engine and air-conditioning system. Tinted windows help to minimize the accumulation of heat within a vehicle. In fact, some films on the market today offer an 85 to 95% heat rejection rate. That translates into a much cooler car, even on the hottest and most humid days.

Protect your vehicle's interior. The UV rays of the sun can damage the interior of your car. Upholstery may fade after long-term exposure to the sun. Leather seats may crack and become brittle as well. Tinted windows block 99% of the sun's harmful rays, protecting your car's interior from pre-mature aging.

Protect your skin. Just like your car's interior, your skin is susceptible to damage from the UVA and UVB rays that filter into your vehicle through the windows. Sun damage to your skin can lead to cancer. Window tinting can block those damaging rays and prevent you and your passengers from dangerous sun exposure.

Reduce glare. Tinted windows help reduce the glare of the sun during daytime driving and the glare of headlights at night. This reduction will allow drivers to have a clearer view of the road and ideally, be able to avoid deadly accidents.

Improve fuel-efficiency. Because tinted windows keep a car's interior so much cooler, there is less strain put on the vehicle's engine and air-conditioner. Drivers are able to save some money because they will not be wasting fuel by cooling down their car dramatically each time it has been sitting for long periods of time.

Protection during an accident. In the event of an accident, window tint can help shattered glass hold together, protecting you and your passengers from dangerous shards of glass that may result from an impact.

Improve security. Window tinting blocks a potential thief's view of the valuables inside your vehicle. A criminal is less likely to break-in to a car unless he knows that there is something he wants. Darkened windows can deter thieves who attempt to "smash-and-grab" valuables from your vehicle.

Improves appearance. Tinted windows add a sophisticated style to any vehicle. Whether you prefer to make a bold statement or desire a subtler look, various shades of tint are available to fulfill all of your style requirements. However, drivers must follow local window tinting regulations and guidelines in order to avoid costly fines and tint removal.

Auto window tint offers numerous benefits to the consumer, making it an extremely popular enhancement for vehicle owners around the country. It is important to remember that you must find a qualified installer who can inform you about your tint choices and install it professionally and correctly. Getting it done right the first time will eliminate tint removal and replacement in the future.

DIY - Homemade Dirt Bike Tug Strap

2011-06-01T02:49:00.000-07:00

Have you gotten your dirt bike stuck in a mud pit out on a long trail ride? Did it take long to get it out? Did you lose all of your energy from pulling it out? If you answered yes to at least one of those questions, then I can help make life (well, riding.... but isn't riding your life anyway) a whole lot easier. If you don't know what a tug strap is, it's a piece of material that goes on the rear end of your seat that you can use to lift your dirt bike up.

First step is to get some material from a fabric or craft store. Should be pretty cheap because you only need a couple feet of it. You'll be looking for fabric that's similar to what tie-downs are made out of so it's strong enough. Two to three feet should be enough.

Next is to measure it up to the bike. Take the bolts off that hold the rear of the seat and side panels. Pull the rear of the seat up and take the material and put one end up to one of the seat bolt holes. Now, there are two ways you can do this, one will require a little more length in material, but will probably be more sturdy. First one is by putting the seat back down so the holes line up (ready for bolts to be screwed back in), then wrapping the material over the seat and lining it up with the other seat bolt hole. You should leave just enough slack in the strap over the seat so that you can fit a hand through it, but too loose will leave it hanging out, causing it to catch on your or another object not on the bike. Next is to mark the spots on the strap material where it lines up with the holes (a sharpie or marker will work). Now we'll look at the other option before we finish it...

The second way is to line up the start with the first hole, like we did for the first one. Instead of going over the seat now, first go under the seat with the strap, then wrap it around the top, and once again under the seat. So, it should be a complete loop around the bike (kinda' like what the Hot Wheels tracks did where you roll the car down the track and it does a loop, and then...Oh, never mind). Just remember to leave enough room for you hand. I guess the down-side to this route is that you have to wrap the strap around seat one more time when you take it off (big whoop!). The strap should now be lined up with the second hole; where we left off for the first strap...

After you have properly adjusted the strap and marked-up the holes, take it off. Now you will get the holes out to the correct size. You can do this by drilling them, or using a propane torch to heat a bolt/nail and burning a hole through the material.

Scion At 2010 SEMA Show

2011-06-01T02:15:00.000-07:00

Scion is a very ordinary and affordable but very cool brand in America, so their car’s are perfect candidates for customization! And SEMA show in Las Vegas is where you can see the best jobs done by the best customizer around the country. This year too there’s a whole bunch of them, all listed with their details after the jump, but the coolest one is the craziest, which is of course Cartel xB Limo. That’s right a limousine Scion! The Shawn Baker tC is also very gangsta.

0-60 Magazine Tarmac xD

Exterior/Interior:

Rally spec race cage by Design Craft Fabrication
Lexan windows by Design Craft Fabrication
Front and rear fender and bumper aerodynamics by Design Craft Fabrication
Suede dash by Design Craft Fabrication
Custom carbon-fiber hood, rear hatch and interior by Design Craft Fabrication
Front Lip Spoiler by Five Axis Models
APR Performance Wing
Custom Paint by Balistek Autobody
Carbon-fiber light pod by Vermont Sports Car
PIAA High-Intensity lights and bulbs
Graphics by S and A Designs
Sparco Pro ADV and S2000 racing seats, steering wheel with quick release hub and racing harnesses.
Powertrain:

Quaife ATB Helical LSD Differential
GReddy performance exhaust system
Motul lubricants and fluids
Wheels, Tires, Suspension and Brakes:

Rays Engineering Volk Racing TE-37 18×7.5 front and rear
BFGoodrich 225/40/18 R1 Tarmac tires
Tein USA custom HG coilovers, twin tube constructed, 16-way compression, large capacity external reservoir tanks
TRD rear sway bar
Custom front sway bar by Design Craft Fabrication
Performance racing brake pads by Disc Brakes Australia
High performance direct replacement slotted rotors by Disc Brakes Australia

Electronics:

Terratrip rally computer
GoPro HD cameras
GReddy gauges

Cartel xB Limo

Exterior/Interior:

48-inch Quality Coachworks stretch
One-piece side passenger panel
Suicide passenger door entry
Custom metal work inside and out
Custom window glass
5 Axis stretched and modified side skirts
Quality Coach black leather J couch, leather and suede door panels and audio trim
Cartel Customs audio enclosures and TV partition wall
Quality Coach custom bar
Powertrain:

AEM air intake
Cartel straight exhaust
STRUP performance header
ACT clutch
Torco oils
Wheels, Tires and Suspension:

20-inch x 8.5-inch Demoda Aviator wheels
Toyo Proxes 235/30/20
Cartel Custom air bag setup
Rear factory suspension points re-engineered and located

Electronics:

Alpine 2,600 Watt entertainment and information system
Source Unit with Audio/Video/Navigation/Bluetooth
1 PDX-M12 mono amp
1 PDX-M6 mono amp
2 PDX-F4 4-channel amps
PXA-H100 IMPRINT audio processor
12 SPR-175 6.5-inch component speakers
2 SWR-T10 10-inch thin subwoofers
1 SWR-T12 12-inch thin subwoofer

US Army Sapper xB

Exterior/Interior:

Rear doors welded shut and shaved by Team Sapper
B-pillar and back the roof has been removed by Team Sapper
Rear tail gate welded shut and shaved by Team Sapper
Custom fabricated rear spoiler by Team Sapper
Paint work by Majestic Auto Body
Rear roll cage by 417 Motorsports
HID low beams from HID Direct
Custom handmade green back-lit front bumper Scion emblem
Streetglow LED underbody kit
Streetglow LED wheel well kit
Custom Marine grade vinyl front and rear seats by Little Sids Upholstery
Custom Marine grade vinyl shift boot, rear panels and center console by Team Sapper
Hand fiber glassed rear door panels, speaker pods and subwoofer enclosure
Powertrain:

Modified factory manifold
Magnaflow cat back stainless exhaust system
AEM polished cold air intake
DEI Ny-Trex Nitrous System jetted for 100 shot
TRD oil cap
Wheels, Tires and Suspension:

20-inch x 8.5-inch Lorenzo WL21 wheels
Nitto Neo Gen tires
Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs 1.5-inch drop
TRD strut tower brace

Electronics:

2 Kicker 750 mono block amps
1 Kicker 650 4-channel amp
1 USAMPS power inverter/charger
2 sets of 6.5-inch MB Quartz component speakers (Front doors and rear pods)
1 set of 5.25-inch MB Quartz component speakers (rear door panels)
Soundstream in-dash screen, DVD, CD, iPod
Soundstream 6 Farad capacitor
2 RE Audio SXX 15-inch subwoofers
Optima Yellow Top battery

James Lin tC

Exterior/Interior:

One-off carbon fiber body-kit, hood and trunk
Custom hand-laid carbon-fiber door inserts, rear quarter panels and front fenders by AA Autoworks
Custom hidden door handles with keyless remote entry
Shaved antenna, windshield wipers, door handles and side-view mirrors
Show Off HIDs with HID 6000K kit
AIT Racing carbon-fiber front and rear splitters
APR front bumper carbon-fiber canards, carbon-fiber side-view mirrors and carbon-fiber rear wing
Custom mix Transtar gold paint by AA Autoworks
2 Sparco Fighter seats, 4PT harness camlock, and harness pads
Sparco suede steering wheel, Fast R shift knob, Stripe STD pedal kit, hand brake and track set sliders
NRG 3.0 quick release hub and wheel lock
Broadway rear-view mirror

Powertrain:

God Speed gt2876r T28 turbocharger, Type-M front-mount intercooler, piping, and blow-off valve
Custom chrome manifold and down pipe
DC Sport air filter
Denso 550cc injectors
Nology spark plugs
Walbro 250 LPH fuel pump
Mishimoto radiator, fan shroud, vacuum and cooler lines, and thermostat
KOM automotive oil cooler kit
NRG ground wire system, oil catch, voltage stabilizer, carbon-fiber engine damper and carbon-fiber hood damper
Nitrous Express spray system with two purge bottles
Polished engine valve cover and TRD oil cap
Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

DPE Custom R16 wheels, front 20×8.5 rear 20×10
BFGoodrich Tires g-Force T/A KDW, front 225/30/20 rear 245/30/20
Air Lift air suspension, front struts rear bags
TRD big brake kit

Electronics:

Sony 7-inch double DIN A/V receiver prototype unit with navigation package
4 Sony 12-inch subwoofers
2 Sony 15-inch subwoofers
4 Sony Class D mono amps
2 Sony 4-channel amps
2 Sony XS-GTX1621S components
2 SOny XS-GTX1641 Co-axial speakers
4 Sony 6.5-inch monitors
2 Sony rear-view cameras
Sony Bravia 32-inch LCD TV
Sony Blu-Ray player
Sony DASH personal internet viewer
Stinger Sound damping material
Stinger tinned oxygen-free copper line wires and cables
3 Stinger compact size batteries
Stinger power supply
Custom alternator upgraded from 75 to 150 amps
Megatronix poppers and keyless remote entry

John Pangilin tC

Exterior/Interior:

Jon Sibal custom designed tC GT carbon-fiber widebody kit
Seibon carbon-fiber hood and trunk
APR carbon-fiber rear wing and side-view mirrors
PPG Paint applied by Kelly & Son
Wraptivo by Meguiar’s carbon-fiber wrapped roof
Recaro Pro Racer Hans seat with side mount
Custom wrapped steering wheel by Top Stitch with Works Bell hub
DJ Safety fire suppression

Powertrain:

DESCENDANT TC2 turbocharger kit
HKS Super Sequential III
HKS custom exhaust
NOS System with carbon-fiber bottle, bottle heater, electronic bottle opener and LCD display for launcher
AEM air filter
Exedy clutch
Odyssey P625 battery
Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

Rays G2 Race Wheels 18×10.5
Toyo Proxes R888
Brembo Gran Turismo big brake kit with custom painted cailpers
KW coilovers custom 1 of 1 HLS system
Custom race spec roll cage

Electronics:

AEM oil pressure gauge
AEM air/fuel gauge
AEM X-WiFi wireless real-time engine data monitoring
AEM fuel ignition controller
AEM Water Methanol injector monitor and kit

U.S. Navy Salty Dog xB

Exterior/Interior:

Body and paint by C & G Customs, using all Candy Paint
Extreme Dimensions GT series full body kit custom fitted to 2011 xB (originally designed fro 08-10 only)
Extreme Dimensions carbon-fiber spoiler
Seibon carbon-fiber hood
Custom airbrush by David Webster, AIRBRUSH JAX
Custom one-off headlights by Advanced Automotive Concepts
Custom Red and Green LED’s installed in side mirrors for Port and Starboard
Custom gold paint matched grills
Sahved rear windows replaced with portholes and custom glass
Clazzio black leather and suede seat covers
Car Mat Japan VIP cross stitched neck pads
Car Mate Japan VIP side tables
Custom suede headliner
Custom plastic dyed interior
Custom one-off middle console/armrest
Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

TSW Cadwell wheels, front 19×8 rear 19×9.5
Falken FK 452 tires, front 215/35/19 rear 225/35/19
Power Slot slotted rotors
Tein Basic coilovers

Electronics:

1 Powerbass ASA1000 1Dx 1500 Watt amp
1 Powerbass ASA600 4x 200 Watt x 4 amp
3 Powerbass M-104D 10-inch 4-ohm subwoofers
3 sets of Powerbass S-6C 6.5-inch component speakers
1 Powerbass AEQ-7XO Equalizer
4 Fahrenheit 7-inch monitors
1 Fahrenheit DVD player
Oznium LED lighting

Crawford Performance tC

Exterior/Interior, Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

ATI carbon-fiber hood
Vinyl graphics by Spin Imaging
Window tint
Alpine stereo
Scion spoiler
Tein Super Racing coilovers
Toyo Tires Proxes R1R 265/35ZR18
Advan RG-D Racing wheels with custom paint, 18×9
TRD big brake kit

Under the hood:

Motul fluids
NGK spark plugs
K&N high-flow air cleaner
Power by Crawford Performance

GReddy tC

GReddy equipment:

Prototype T67-25G 8cm2 Tuner Turbo Kit with header type SUS exhaust manifold
Type-31 Spec-V front-mounted intercooler
Type-RZ blow-off valve and HG intercooler piping
Airinx RZ-M air intake system 100mm
Turbo Ti-C 70mm exhaust system
e-Manage Ultimate – engine control unit
Informeter-TOUCH – OBD2 monitor
PRofec B-spec2 boost controller
Full auto turbo timer II
Pro iridium spark plugs
Oil tank catch – SL
Billet oil filler cap
GT-2 0W-40 synthetic oil
Magnetic oil drain bolt
Counter-weight shift knob
Prototype Type-S coilover suspension kit
Additional equipment:

FIVE-Axis aero package
Scion Optimize rear wing
TRD big brake kit
Volk Racing G2 wheels 18×9
Toyo Tires R888 255/35ZR18
S and A Designs for the GReddy graphics

Shawn Baker tC

Exterior/Interior:

Body and paint by R Miller Autobody
BASF RM Nimbus Grey Pearl paint
Racing Solutions RS2 Lip Kit
Matte black A-pillars, mirrors, wiper deleted rain tray and smoothed engine bay.
Rolled fenders
Ignited HID kit
Smoked headlamps and turn signals
Matte black Scion badges
All metal one-off rear duckbill spoiler
Aluminum shorty antenna
Custom leather interior by Russ’ Trim Shop
Coast to Coast Sedonna Collection Cognac leather
Baseball glove style rawhide stitching
Rear seat deleted headrets, padded armrests
Nardi Classic 360mm steering wheel; black spokes with wood finish and NRG quick release steering hub
Pineapple MK2 hand grenade shift knob
Stewart Warner gauges
4-point roll cage painted Nimbus Grey
Cognac color suede headliner

Powertrain:

DESCENDANT 55mm custom turbo, SS manifold, down pipe and intercooler tubing kit finished Nimbus Grey
Tial MV-S wastegate
Bosch VAG bypass valve
SMax intercooler with integrated CO2 coil system, coolant reservoir and oil catch can
Custom Old Gold 3-inch axle back exhayst system
Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

Rotiform 3-piece forged Race SJC wheels, front 19×8.5 rear 19.9.5
Falken FK 452 tires, front 215/35/19 rear 225/35/19
Wilwood 4-piston calipers and stainliess steel braided brake lines
Custom fitted Wilwood 14-inch cross drilled and slotted rotors
AirLift electronic air ride suspension

Electronics:

Pioneer AVIC X920BT
JBL Audio MS-8 Digital Processor
Infinity Kappa mono and 4-channel amps
2 Infinity Kappa 100.9 10-inch subwoofers
2 Infinity Kappa 60.9 component speakers
MobileSpec wiring and fuse blocks
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Clear Spot – 4G Wireless internal hot-spot

US Marine Kai Hei tai xB

Exterior/Interior:

Body and paint by Team Kai Hei Tai
Widened and extended fenders
Halo projected headlights from Spec D
Matte black Scion badges with diamond plate backing
One-off Scion 16-inch x 22-inch emblem on hood by Bratton’s Kustom Werkz
Custom front and rear bumper guards and rock rails “Up-armored” with Duplicolor Bed Armor with Kevlar
Custom light bars
Pilot Automotive 3.5-inch diameter 55 Watt performance driving lights with halos and strobe
.50cal vehicle decal wrap
Custom leather seats by Katzkin
Auto Metere boost gauge and pod
Custom MARPAT pattern headliner
Powertrain:

DESCENDANT Racing 2008-2010 Scion xB Tuner Friendly Turbocharger kit
AEM performance fuel/ignition controller
Boomsland F/I controller custom wiring harness
RC Engineering 750cc fuel injector with Scion wiring adapters
Valve cover finished with Duplicolor Bed Armor with Kevlar finish
2008 RAV4 automatic transmission and transfer case
1999 RAV4 rear drive axle
Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension:

17×9 Moto Metal 909 “The Skull” wheels front and rear
Goodyear MTR tires with Kevlar, 245/70/17 front and rear plus roof-mounted spare
EBC 14-inch cross drilled and slooted rotors, and Red Stuff brake pads
Front K-member modified and lowered 1-inch
Custom rear engine/transmission mount
Custom built rear sub-frame to mount rear differential
Rear torsion axle was sectioned, extended, and modified with custom drive shaft loop
Rear CV axles entended
Custom built 2-piece driveshaft by Allstate Driveline
2-inch Icon Vehicle Dynamics FJ Cruiser lift kit adapted to vehicle
1-inch wheels spacers from Adapt-it USA

Electronics:

Optima Blue Top Marine battery
Scion/Pioneer head unit
Audiofonics 1200 Watt amp
4 Audiofonics 5-inch 3-way speakers with Blue LEDs
2 Audiofonics 6×9 3-way speakers
2 Audiofonics 12-inch subwoofer and box

1976 FJ40 Restoration & Build Up

2011-06-01T02:06:00.000-07:00

Decker’s did a Complete Body off Frame up Rebuild and Restoration on this Cruiser. All photo documented. New paint over original green. Absolutely zero rust. Show perfect and trail ready. Rubicon proven. California smog legal. Virtually everything was disassembled and refurbished, replaced or upgraded. This Cruiser is a pleasure to drive on the street and very capable on the trail.

INTERIOR:

Factory seats restored to original.
Decker's locking console with optional speaker box.
AM-FM Cassette with 4 speakers 2 in doors and 2 in speaker box
Dash box
New 3 point seat belts plus 2 point belts for off road
All dash knobs restored to original
CB with external speaker
Heater restored and new defroster hoses
Glove box door and gage cluster nickel-plated
Grant GT steering wheel
Clutch and brake pedal assemblies removed, bead blasted and repainted.
New clutch and brake pedal pads
New kick vent seals
Gas pedal assembly replated to original
New rear view mirror
Flash light mount
Fire extinguisher
Wiring harness removed and reconditioned
New gear shifting instructions plate on glove box
Interior of tub, seat backs and ½ doors sprayed in black urethane Rhino Lining
Seats raised 2" and drivers seat moved back for legroom
New OEM and stainless nuts and bolts
New transfer case shift boot
All gages and electrics work
Cargo tie down brackets.

DRIVE TRAIN:

Front axle completely gone through with all new bearings, gaskets and seals and filled with Red Line oil
New mini truck birfields.
Front ARB locking differential actuated by an air switch rather than a solenoid.
New Aisin locking hubs.
Saginaw power steering.
All new ball joints.
New drop pitman arm.
New brake pads and calipers.
Butch Built front Pumpkin Hat for diff protection and recessed allen bolt drain plug.
Rear axle completely gone through with all new bearings, gaskets and seals, backlash and preload set to factory specs and filled with Red Line oil.
New brake shoes and cylinders.
Locking rear differential.
New clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing and carrier, slave and master cylinders and pilot bearing, throw out arm and pivot and flywheel resurfaced.
Australian 4 speed transmission with granny low 4.95 : 1 with all new seals and gaskets and filled with Red line oil.
Warden’s billet transfer case with Marlin Crawler gears with all new seals, bushings and bearings, new output shaft, fork and Warden’s complete rebuild kit . Filled with Red Line oil.

ENGINE and UNDER HOOD:

Carb rebuilt by Jim Chenowith
Downey header
New 2 ½” exhaust and Flowmaster
New plug wires
Valve cover and thermostat cover bead blasted and clear coated
New windshield washer tank and motor.
New belts
New hoses as needed.
Separate wiring harness and fuse block for rock lights, fuel tank selector, BU lights, radio memory and CB
Battery tray bead blasted and Rhino lined
New fuel filters
New oil filter and Red line oil
New battery cables
Optima battery
New wiring grommets
Bolt on brackets replated to OEM

SUSPENSION:

Modified 4" lift springs does 1244 on a 23 degree ramp and 1440 on a 20 degree ramp
Shackle reversal
Rear drop shackles
Greasable shackle pins.
1 1/8” wheel spacers

BODY:

Body was completely removed and disassembled.
Rear body corners cut to same height as rear.
Underneath of tub undercoated using 3M rubberized undercoating.
All caulking removed from seams and recaulked.
Half doors made from early style doors with custom fabricated door strikers and brackets that attach to late style door opening limiters, new weatherstrip.
Kayline half door tops fit into half doors to make full doors.
New door hinge bushings

Repainted with Dupont Centari paint, color sanded and buffed out.
New OEM radio antenna
Fiberglass front fenders with ¾” cut from sides and 1 ½” cut from front for tire clearance
Fiberglass drop tailgate with new weatherstrip
New OEM windshield and weatherstrip
New OEM hood latches
New OEM windshield latches for when the windshield is down
New hood to core support rubbers
New hood to upper fender rubbers
New OEM windshield mount mirror arms and aftermarket mirrors.
New hood hinge rubber gaskets
New “Land Cruiser” emblems on front upper fender panels
“Land Cruiser” front head light bezel Gozzard
All bolt holes retapped
Hard top disassembled restored and repainted.
New headliner
Custom 1/2 rear ambulance doors close above tailgate.

EXTRAS:

Aluminum wheels with 35" mud tires and black Rock Crawler wheels with 35" mud tires.
ARB compressor plumbed to air tank in front bumper.
Decker front bumper with air tank, winch mount and 2 recovery D rings.
Decker brush guard.
Reconditioned Warn winch with new cable.
Decker rear bumper with tow receiver and recovery D ring. Has protection plates
for stock taillights and holes for recovery shackles on both sides.
Decker swing out tire carrier and cooler rack. Single latch operation, back up light and Hi Lift mount.
Bushwhacker flares
Rocker panel protection plates
Rear diamond plate. no rust underneath!
Under body Rock lights
Decker roof rack mounted behind main roll bar hoop.
New rear gas tank with Decker skid plate.
Decker traction bar

Front of rear wheel wells modified for tire clearance when wheel is in bump.
Specter Woodland Camo Bikini with shade screen.
Spectre Woodland Camo Spare Cover.
1 ½” body lift
All new poly body mounts and new bolts
Floor mats
Halogen headlamps
New front turn signal lamp assemblies

Custom Door Fit Fabrication

2011-06-01T01:59:00.000-07:00

To build and fix a custom door on your car that fits safety requirements and will fit your preference is not difficult if you follow the steps below.

First, make a template for the door opening from cardboard, which may be subjected to adjustments later on. Next, cut a two inch strip form 18-gauge cold rolled steel and bend it into 90 degrees, with dimensions of 1x1 inch. Fabricate it with the template as a guide and tweak it into perfection against the real opening. It will form the inner door perimeter. Then, bend another strip into 90 degrees, with dimensions of 1x2 inch, forming the outer perimeter. In the inner structure, punch holes along the horizontal flange for welding later on. Slip the outer flange over the inner one, allowing adjustment for the width of the door. Check and tweak the pieces until they fit the template exactly.

Now, clamp both perimeters together and weld the bottom of the door too, where the pre-punched holes were. Then put the frame back into your vehicle to check its fit as well as to trace the proper hinge location and mark the attaching points. Original woody hinges are recommended if they are the correct shape and small enough. They will be undetected after being covered by the installed wood trim.

Drill a radius at the corners using a small hole saw and remove the excess metal using a cut off wheel. Now, the cut-outs should be completed. For the backing up of the threaded fastener plate, you can fabricate a "stair step" holder with a front cover which features access holes for the installation, removal or loosening of the bolts when adjusting the door into perfect fit.

Along with the fastener plate as well as the holder, fit the frame with the hinges and weld them in place after precise placement. You should have a functioning swinging door. Lay out and mark 20 gauge steel for your lower beam support, then bead roll a number of strengthening grooves so that the door assembly can be stiffened. Using a 36-inch roller, roll the ½ beads out on both the inner and outer panels, following the markings you just made.

With the help of a Tenn Smith brake, bend the panels so that one can be fitted inside the other, the fit provided by the 90° lips. A rectangular beam will be formed by the two pieces, stiffening the door and allowing fastening spots for a power window system.

Spot weld the stiffening tube together, and cut the back half on each end out and install them to the door, so that stitch weld can be done. Then, cut strips from 20 gauge and lay them out for two qty pieces, and bend them at 90°. Weld the 2 channels together so that the window channel rear portion can be formed, which is where the glass's rear edge will slide vertically. To achieve desired width, use ½ inch square tubing as form, and clamp the two sections in place for welding. After welding, leave it to cool.

After fitting the channel to the rear door edge at the driver's side, you can see that ample clearance is allowed for the door catch which will be mounted later on. Then, install the channel and weld it to the passenger side door. Build channels measuring 2x1 inches, with a small lip bent on the 2 inch side. Fix the interior window sill to the frame and weld it in place. Now, trial fit and cut the window fuzzys to length for the mock up later on. Build a channel as well as pie cut a section. For matching of the roof line, shrink the upper section. Install a 3/16ths wood for temporary glass to check fit, if clearance is right, tack weld the channels properly. Spot weld the inner and outer frames together with the top window channel. As you can see this is not an easy task to build a one of a kind door but at least you know the correct techniques to expect if you have to choose a street rod shop to build it for you.

Finally select small bear claw latches including door panel corners that are pre-notched for the latch. Cut a notch at the edge of the rear door so that the unit could be fitted in. Fabricate a cap to finish the cut out and weld the cap and the latch plate in place. Ground it smooth and you are done.

Careful Choices Bring You the Right Motorcycle Mufflers

2011-06-01T01:51:00.000-07:00

Care is better than prevention! Like so many other sensible persons, I agree with this proverb. The only question that makes people confused is whether or not it is possible to remain careful in all walks of life. If it's so, how can a person enjoy his life? How can you enjoy something when you're frightened? Adventures are thrilling because there are risks involved in them. Anyhow, to understand this preamble and how it is linked to motorcycle mufflers, you need to differentiate between two steps:

A step that needs careful attitude to do something and
A step that actually rests on the 1st one.

Let me explain it by an example. Suppose you're a motorcyclist and want to buy a motorcycle muffler for your vehicle. Apparently, it's not a big task to buy a new muffler for your motorcycle but actually it is especially when you're going to buy it for the very 1st time. Now what should be your approach to make this shopping happen? Well, if you can afford in your life hassles like heavy fines for not having EPA-compliant motorcycle mufflers, or malfunctioning of the muffler or even very unwanted stops in your drive, you don't need to be very careful about buying a motorcycle muffler. What you buy will be perfect. Just go and buy a motorcycle muffler without knowing about its features and if it doesn't work properly; doesn't worry rather go to some muffler manufacturer and buy another muffler for your vehicle that can bring you more fun.

Now, there is another approach to buy a motorcycle muffler. This one is a bit 'careful' approach so it requires care in all steps involved in buying a muffler for your vehicle. This approach will require you a complete homework to specify all the possible reasons behind buying a new motorcycle muffler and then will guide you in the right direction to the right choice.

This will require a comparison of mufflers manufactured by different companies and this comparison will be first based on the features of these mufflers and then will ask for a price comparison before fixing the deal. All these steps need care separately. It's not only about going through these steps rather you need to be very careful while going through each and every step. If a feature based comparison is based on only two companies, it will affect your results. You need to make a comparison at least top ten manufacturers in your area to remove all the possible risks involved in your buying endeavor.

A motorcycle muffler that is bought in a careful way will be long lasting for you and won't let you fall in some unwanted hassles. We need not to make each and every second of our life an adventure for the sake of enjoyment. Even the biggest adventures are made possible after completing a very careful homework. Will a sea diver be ever successful to go deep down the sea in the absence of oxygen mask?

Baron Big Nasty Slip-On

This uniquely styled 2-into-1 megaphone slip-on features a 1.75-inch baffle. An optional inversion kit allows one of three baffles ranging from 1.50 inches to 2.00 to be inserted into the slip-on for tuning of noise and power. This straightforward, easy installation only took 25 minutes. The slip-on produces a deep, throaty note at idle that is arguably the nicest of the slip-ons. However, in the static test the decibel meter registered 106.1 -- way above our 104.0 limit -- and was the loudest of the slip-ons we tested. The drive-by test ranked the volume in the middle on the street, at 84.1 dbA. The Big Nasty churned out 54.1 horsepower and 87.5 foot-pounds (ft-lbs) on the dyno -- that's best and second best of the slip-ons, respectively. The street ride highlighted the slip-on's improved throttle response over stock. The engine pulled cleanly at all throttle openings and throughout the rev range. Deceleration with closed throttle produced some backfiring that may be able to be tuned out with some more jetting work. The junction of the two headers yellowed slightly during the extreme loads of the dyno testing. We did not drag the slip-on while cornering in our street test. With the exception of the excessive noise, the $295 Big Nasty slip-on worked well and was the lightest of the three we tested, weighing in at 9.7 pounds. The smaller baffle included in the $60 inversion kit might reduce the noise to a more socially conscious level.

Hard-Krome Drag Slip-Ons

These drag style slip-ons installed easily in 15 minutes -- although we did have to fiddle with the lower canister to get it to match up with the stock header's heat shield. The resulting look of the pipe is true to drag-pipe styling with a flawless chrome surface. Unfortunately, this type of canister doesn't allow much room for baffles of any kind. At 105.9 dbA, the sound, though not the loudest, had a harsh raspy sound that neither of the other slip-ons exhibited. On deceleration with a closed throttle the top canister sounded like something was loose and rattling in it. After inspecting the canister, we determined that the noise was reverberation within the rear cylinder's pipe. Compared to the other slip-ons, the Hard-Krome drags were down on power, delivering a peak of 50.8 horsepower -- 1.0 horsepower lower than stock -- and a 6.0 ft-lb increase to 86.7 ft-lbs. In the street portion of the test, the lack of power was apparent in the upper portion of the rev range, while response off the line was improved slightly. Ground clearance was not impeded in any way. The chrome did not yellow or blue during our test, thanks to Hard-Krome's double-walled construction. Tipping the scales
at 10.6 pounds, Hard-Krome's Drag Slip-ons retail for $200.

Samson Rolled Edge Slash Cut Slip-Ons

Bolting on in only 10 minutes, the 10.6-pound Samson 2-into-2 canisters have three-inch openings that give the impression of wide-open pipes. Hidden inside the mufflers, a louvered core keeps the sound level down to a reasonable 103.1 dbA while allowing the engine to churn out 54.0 horsepower. Although the slip-ons missed the top horsepower number by 0.1 horsepower, the Samsons brought home the big torque numbers with 88.0 ft-lbs. The rolled-edge exhaust outlets from which the canisters get their name have a unique look. The finish is good, but a slight discoloration of the chrome appeared at the front of the canisters after the dyno runs -- no doubt due to the extra heat generated while strapped to the dynamometer. In the street course, power delivery was hiccup-free. The lower canister touched down in corners after the floorboard dragged -- slightly later than the OE system. The exhaust note is deep with a slight high pitched "attack" at the onset of each pulse. Closed-throttle deceleration didn't result in backfires. The best combination of power and neighborly sound levels in this slip-on trio can be purchased for approximately $349.

Bub Enterprises 2-2 Billet Cone System

We were struck by the style of Bub's 2-into-2 cone exhaust when it began cropping up on custom bikes. Other cruiser enthusiasts must feel the same way, since the only example of the two systems the company makes for the Road Star (the other one is a slick 2-into-1) available was blemished and didn't have a heat shield. For the record, Bub pipes feature Guard Dog 220 degree (as in degrees of a circle) chrome heat shields that should keep the blues away. Bolting on the 2-into-2 system took 30 minutes, but heat shields will add time to that total. The conical canisters and their billet end caps give the pipes a different look and were chosen as the best looking in our survey.

The exhaust note has a less bassy tone than the others with more high-frequency overtones. Although the system didn't sound as loud as some of the others, the decibel meter registered 105.1 in the static test and the highest reading of all the pipes (92.0 dbA) in the rolling test. The 18.4-pound pipes trotted out 52.4 peak horsepower and 86.6 ft-lbs of torque. During street testing, the power delivery was strong at most throttle positions except full throttle at low rpm. We suspect that this pipe would have benefited from slightly leaner jetting due to its narrow head pipes. In right-hand turns, the pipe drags front and rear just after the floorboards. The Bub pipes carry a $495 retail price.

Hard-Krome Double D Straights System

These are the biggest, fattest pipes we've ever seen. Hard-Krome's double-walled construction wraps a 2.75-inch-diameter outer pipe around a 1.75-inch inner, effectively isolating the pretty dual nickel chrome exterior from the hot interior. Since the two pipes are single-piece construction, bolting the pipes to the headers and their proprietary bracket only takes 30 minutes. We knew the sound meter was going to have a field day the moment we thumbed the starter. Registering 107.1 dbA in the static test and 87.9 dbA rolling -- for the loudest and second-loudest measurements respectively of this comparison -- the Straights still surprised us. When strapped to the dyno, the Double Ds generated some more big numbers with the number two horsepower score at 54.5 horsepower. Torque anted up with 87.0 ft-lbs, the best of the full systems. From the get-go, the power was apparent on the street without the backfiring of some of the other pipes. However, ground clearance was limited to the point where the floorboard cannot touch the ground. Riders should be careful until they learn their bike's reduced cornering limits. The Straights weigh 29.0pounds, which was expected, given their beefy appearance. Rustle up a set of Double D Straights for $400.

Jardine Slash Cut System

Cruiser pipe designs don't get much more classic than Jardine's Slash Cuts. The 2-into-2 pipes feature 1.75-inch, single-walled head pipes feeding into mufflers with 1.5-inch louvered baffles. Our system arrived with optional full-length heat shields (approximately $95) already affixed. The standard system incorporates two partial clamp-on heat shields. Installation took 25 minutes from picking up the wrenches to turning the ignition key. Our only complaint about the process was having to dust off our SAE wrenches to tighten down Jardine's hardware.

Metric-bike systems should ship with metric fasteners. The pipes issue a deep rumble with just a hint of the attack and backfiring that a couple other systems exhibited. Street riding revealed what the dyno numbers had already told us. The Slash Cuts made the least power of the comparison with only a 0.2 horsepower increase in peak horsepower. The torque numbers, at 85.0 ft-lbs, were better, which explains why the engine felt strong in the bottom end. When cornering comes into play, the Jardine system was tops among the full systems, touching down right at the Road Star's maximum lean. The pipe registered 104.0 dbA in the static test, qualifying it for street-reasonable status. The rolling test delivered the quietest of the full systems by almost 5 dbA. Tipping the scales at 16.2 pounds, the Jardine Slash Cuts can be ordered for $294.

Roadhouse Classic Exhaust System

Retro is the only word necessary to describe Roadhouse's entry in this test. Although no current riders should be able to remember when pipes of this style were cutting edge technology, Roadhouse has packaged a modern 2-into-1 exhaust into a vintage package. The multiple-step installation takes approximately 45 minutes once the final tweaking has been finished. The unique serrated header covers are made of stainless steel and are less likely to blue than chrome. The collector hides under a chrome cover, and the canister also features a chrome finish. The leading edge of the muffler exhibited some yellowing after multiple dyno runs (this pipe was also used in "Playing with Fire," Motorcycle Cruiser, April 2000). The deep exhaust note sounds great and generated the lowest sound levels in the static test.

The 102.8 dbA static reading was followed up with an 87.7 dbA rolling test. Spinning out 55.4 horsepower, Roadhouse proved neighborly sound doesn't have to come at the expense of big power. Besides winning the horsepower war, the Classic Exhaust tied for second with an 86.6 ft-lb torque reading. The Roadhouse exhaust exhibited crisp throttle response, pulling strongly at most engine speeds -- including wide open at moderate rpm. Backfiring on deceleration was a nuisance that can probably be tuned out, possibly with the removal of the Road Star's air induction system. Ground clearance is the only real fly in the Classic Exhaust's ointment, with the canister becoming intimately acquainted with the pavement way before the floorboard touches down. The pipe weighs in at 20.6 pounds. The Classic Exhaust retails for $570

Car Tuning and Styling

2011-06-01T01:38:00.000-07:00

The rule of effective car tuning and styling in my eyes "Subtly is the key".

Everyone has their own opinion but personally (and I know a lot of people think the same) the more brash the revamp, the more tacky it can look. I have personally witnessed fourteen year old cars having literally thousands of pounds spent on tacky body kits, loud exhaust systems, spoilers that can could slow down a jumbo jet, and I ask myself why?

Unless your car is on the TV show 'Pimp My Ride', chances are it will look the same way. What I am saying here is that obviously not all expensive modifications look tacky - not at all but there are people out there who could have transformed that car into literally a new car. Subtly is the best way, it presents class, style, and brings an air of professionalism to a car rather than someone who is trying to show off. Some one who applies subtle changes to their car often makes it look more stylish and aesthetically pleasing to them and anyone who comes into contact in it.

There are 2 types of car tuning - interior and exterior. By interior I mean engines, brakes, suspensions, and by exterior I'm talking body kits, headlights, spoilers, which could also be classed as styling.

Having a very subtle spoiler, slick sills, angel headlights, windows slightly tinted can literally transform a car and elevate to a new level and these are only minor changes. This is what I believe is the most effective type of car tuning and styling not just for the sake of cost but also appearance, so in a way less is more from that perspective.

On the engine front, well they can always do a remap - that way they can not only preserve the life the engine but enjoy noticeable power, torque, responsiveness and flexibility without it impacting on their fuel consumption which is a real plus point especially in this economy with sky high oil prices.

The latter could be a factor in why the demand of remapping has increased as people do not want to splash out on a new car thus tune it up to make it last longer and more enjoyable to drive.

Bumper Prep Fabrication Techniques

2011-06-01T01:29:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you will need to refurbish or restore your bumper or other chrome-plated parts, and it can be done at your own personal garage, saving you some decent cash for restoration. When you are at it, it is advisable to always start with a good core and check for fit first.

For starters, get the bumper supported on a stand and work out flaws by tapping with a hammer and dolly. Remove the dents on the bumper and then use files to refine the metal. File the common flat areas with a flat file to remove any flaws.

For those corners which are hard to reach, a bull nose file may come in handy. After that, block sand with a power sander, starting with 80 grit. For the contoured areas, make use of round PVC blocks. You can use a long power air board file for the knocking out of remaining flaws. After it is done, give the bumper a wipe down using grease remover and wax or shine.

Next, you can work on the areas which require attention such as bumper guards and their fitting. If it fits badly, you can add some wire and weld it to the inner edge. When all fits well, you can attach the bumper onto a bumper rack (if you have one) and clamp it. Cut down the copper in 180 grit, and find low spots at the same time. During plating and electric process, copper will tend to build up on the outer edges due to the amperage draws. You can take some photos to know where are the areas you want to work on first. Continue to block sand until it is quite smooth.

Next, do plating if necessary as you won't be able to apply primer using a spray gun. If there are any scratches or strikes, you will need to coat the whole bumper and block it once more. Then, for inspection, wet it down. Check for dips and other problems, and tweak them into perfection.

For copper build ups, you can use a smooth sander to knock them down nicely. It will leave you with a surface that has small curly cue on it when you are done. Put a strike on the bumper so that the smoothness can be seen and compared. Grit (320) and sand (400) the bumper and get ready for polishing. After a final wet down, the bumper should look great. Polish the copper until it has a clear and mirror-like finish. Recommended are tools like the RotoSet as well as the Roto Star from Shunner, both which may be the best tool for the job.

The smaller grooves as well as the nooks and crannys can be settled with the small RotoSet. You can use many bars of compounds. Start with rough to medium, to fine and final color from left to right. You can make use of a variety of buffs to alter the amount of space in between the threads of the buff, ranging from aggressive to refined, so you can work by trial and error to achieve the best results.

It is advisable not to use compounds of different nature on the same wheels, because once there is a certain grit coated on, it will be ingrained. You should also clean the buff in between rounds. Using a bit of 600 grit, finish off the bumper and give it a nice polish for a mirror-like finish. Apply compound now and wipe the copper down using grease remover and wax intermittently. Keep in mind that these techniques work within a professional level street rod shop so they are proven methods.

At the same time, keep your eyes open for scratches. After finishing off with the polish, grease removal as well as waxing, you are almost done, hopefully with things looking good for your car. You now have the completed section and should be ready to plate it using chrome and nickel. Following that, install it and you are done with your nice looking and sturdy bumper, which should really be worth your time and effort!