AzurAlive

Antique Hunting at Chateau de Berne

2010-03-12T09:25:55+01:00

On Sunday, March 14 2010, the Château de Berne in Lorgues opens its vast gorgeus and estate doors to professional antiques dealers for a brocante.

This antiques fair is organized by the association "il était autrefois", who has recently hosted a much appreciated fair for heirloom treasure linens (bed linens, boutis, drapes, tablecloths, hand embroided napkins)

Should be fun for the setting & landscape alone. And you never know what jewel you might discover.

10AM to 6PM at Chateau de Berne, Lorgues, Var, France. Telephone: 04 94 60 43 53. Entrance is FREE.

Simply Strapped in St Tropez

2010-03-07T18:01:43+01:00

If you think of St Tropez as pompous, take a peek into master shoe craftsman Alain Rondini's shop on rue Clémenceau. The little shop is full of pumps (sandals actually), but it's anything but pompous.

The front of its 60 square meters serves as a friendly and unassuming sales center, with traditional Tropézienne sandals arranged in the small window display, set on a wooden shelf to the side and hung on the all. The back of the shop serves as a crafting room, with seven shoemakers working the leather into some thirty colorful models.

"We make our leather sandals by hand here in St Tropez, with lots of attention to quality," says Alain, grand on of Dominique Rondini who first opened the shop in 1927. When Alain's father, Serge Rondini later took over the shop from Dominique, he introduced new designs, but remained faithful to the credo of hand-made quality and care. Alain follows in the family's heart-felt tradition.

"We don't have any distributors", explains Alain. "Our clients purchase their sandals here in our shop. We do ship them around the world, but to customers. We want to stay this way: a local St Tropez producer in touch with our customers."

Despite its unpretentious ways, the Atelier Rondini has fitted a good number of famous feet: those of author Colette, an early-adopter of the Tropézienne sandals, Marlene Dietrich, and more recently Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Kate Moss who enjoys a pair of brown-strapped spartan-styled Tropéziennes.

Another St Tropez success story that's non-pompous and inscribed in tradition...

Atelier Rondini
16 Rue Georges Clémenceau
83990 Saint Tropez
04 94 97 19 55

Cycling: Paris-Nice 2010

2010-02-23T13:54:36+01:00

This year, the Tour de France cycling classic won't begin by the French Riviera as it did last year (in Monaco). In fact, it won't pedal near the Côte d'Azur.

For biking fans visiting or living in Southern France, there's always the Paris-Nice event. For 2010, the Paris-Nice begins on Sunday March 7^th and runs until the 14^th to cover a total of 1,288 kilometers.

The last two legs of the 8-part race takes place here on the French Riviera. Expect lots of action here: before reaching town of Tourrettes-sur-Loup from Peynie, our rides will climb the tough Col de Vence (9.7 km at a gradient of 6.6%, ouch!).

Then for stage 8, they're off to other ascents at La Turbie and the Col d’Eze before their descent to Villefranche-sur-Mer on the 14th and arrival on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice.

22 teams will race the Paris-Nice, including 3 teams from the USA, 1 from Great-Britain, but also Belgium, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, Russia, Switzerland, Kazakhstan

Let it Snow, Let it Blow, Let it Snow

2010-02-11T10:13:05+01:00

Meteo France warned 13 départements to be vigilant for snow today. This included the entire French Riviera, with the départements of the Alpes-Maritimes (06) and the Var (83).

Well, we were very vigilant but it still snowed! There's about 1 cm of snow covering the roads, boardwalk, seaside.

Here on the Cote d'Azur, we're not used to snow by the coastline. Everyone is driving at snail pace. Lots of people are calling in to work with "un problème de transport" that forces them (chucks) home.

St Tropez in Winter

2010-02-02T14:47:01+01:00

As with many trendy French Riviera villages, the St Tropez of winter time has little to do with the busy, bustling, bursting St Tropez of summer months.

Yet on a winter open market day, St Tropez's Place des Lices pulsates heartily. Under the square's plane trees, folks wrapped in colorful scarves and high boots fill their baskets with shiny mandarins, hams from Corsica, rounded gourds. Between the cheese and sausage stands, cubes of Aleppo Pine soaps pile up. They're a rarity: made from scratch on the St Tropez peninsula.

"Where can I find a dog sweater?", asks a lady at the Pulls: Cashmere et Soie stand.
"Ma chérie," answers the lovely sweaters lady as she winks over to my side, "just buy two cashmere scarves and have your seamstress make one."

The marché winds down and St Tropez makes its way into the cafés around the plaza*. This isn't exactly rush hour: no need to wait in line for a table. I settle for a coffee at one of my favorites for its friendly atmosphere, Le Sporting café.

"What are you writing about?" asks my sly-eyed neighbor, as I scribble on paper. I explain. The waiter pitches in: "If you're writing about St Tropez, it's a little quiet right now, at least until the February school break."

Quiet? It's relaxed, personal, perfect.

Open Market Days in St Tropez on Place des Lices: Saturday and Tuesday mornings, until 1PM.
A sample of coffee shops around Place des Lices: Le Clémenceau, Le Sporting, Bistro, Café des Arts at the corner, Le Café and its boules available for playing on the plaza. In summer, all are busy. Off-season, the ones facing the sun fill more sun-ray-loving hearts.

Walk on Water in Southern France

2010-01-18T18:21:25+01:00

On a cold humid day stuck inside on the Côte d'Azur, hiker friends were recently day-dreaming aloud: wouldn't it be fun to invent a new walk-related sport that we could practice in any sort of weather?

Sure, snow shoeing is fun in Winter, but you have to drive up to Audibergue or Gréolières or Auron or further and only when snow is around.

Looks like the state of Assam in southern India took us up on this :) They're promoting the sport of water walking, where you walk inside a thermoplastic bubble ball that floats on water. Sort of like a hamster's wheel, except that it's a clear ball and it sits on water. The frantic running gives you quite a work-out: the claim is that 5 minutes inside a water ball is equivalent to 20 mins on a treadmill, and lots more laughs.

To get a better idea, watch this YouTube Video:

How about bouncing a few balls over to Southern France?

Tour de France 2010: Not South Enough

2010-01-16T15:22:24+01:00

Unlike last year, the Tour de France won't pedal through the French Riviera in 2010.

Instead of Monaco, the happening tour will take off from the south side of Rotterdam beginning on July 3rd 2010. Then it dashes south, heads to nearby Gap and Sisteron and moves west to reach the Pyrenées and the leg-burner peak of Col du Tourmalet.

So no TdF craze for the Côte d'Azur this year, outside of gatherings around pubs and friends' with big screen TVs.

More info on the Tour de France 2010, check out the very complete LeTour site: http://www.letour.fr/indexus.html

Big Brash Beautiful Bus

2010-01-13T09:28:02+01:00

I love taking the bus on the French Riviera. Plenty of time to admire the surroundings, lots of space for luggage, lots of plush comfort, of relaxation, of arguing.

I loved my latest bus trip from the Nice Airport to Fréjus. A poor customer who clearly had not read this blog post arrived 15 mins early at the airport bus stop. It was freezing cold. He asked, no demanded, to go in the bus. Listen to this: he was speaking in English. At the international airport, c'est incroyable. The bus driver said no, you wait. He got impatient. The bus driver told him that if he's unhappy, take a taxi. He started screaming that it was cold and what the hell, the bus was here anyway. Bus driver responded in French "c'est ma pause". He said he "didn't give a shit". In English. Big mistake - he should have said it in French. Bus driver "j'en ai rien à foutre," and exchange continues until it's time to board. Bus driver let me and others climb aboard. Fuming but freezing poor lad had to wait outside. Is last to board.

So. Are you visiting the Côte d'Azur? Coming from another planet where "the customer is king?" You're going to need some prepping before taking the bus on the French Riviera.

Top 10 Rules for Proper Bus Behavior

Before: Allow plenty of time to find current bus line schedules.
Before leaving house: Make sure you have exact change ready in hand. While waiting at stop: Make darn sure you have exact change ready in hand. Double check change in your sweaty palms as bus rolls in at stop.
If your bus is ready, idle and waiting at the bus stop. Do not board until the scheduled departure time unless you're interested in a lesson in injurious speak.
After the bus doors open for you, before you make any motion. Say "bonjour!" loud and clear, "bonsoir" if evening.
As you climb up toward driver. Say where you are going. Do not attempt any other discussion at this time. Pray that you have a match between place you want to go and places where bus stops.
Hand out your change in a quick cowboy draw.
Take your receipt instantly as it spouts out of machine next to driver.
With receipt in hand, say "Merci" and move back slightly. As bus dashes off, do not tumble. Appear sturdy and well-anchored at all times. Do not even hint that driver may have a lead foot.
If bus is still waiting for exact departure time, attempt brief conversation. Try a dash of dry humor such as "quelle foule aujourd'hui" if there's not another soul on-board. Or "ça roule bien aujourd'hui?". If no response, sit in far back.
You want to get off outside of a standard bus stops? You're kidding. Don't mention a thing. Walking is really good for your health.

And to think that in the States, we actually have to pay extra for this kind of entertainment (see Dick's Last Resort).

Sentier du Littoral: When not to go

2010-01-05T10:16:54+01:00

On most days, the sentier du littoral or coastal path that winds alongside the Med, makes for delightful walks with views of the sea, sounds of gentle rumbling waves.

However, there are days when you should stay away. When? Whenever it's very windy. On the Cote d'Azur, winds can pick up in the Fall and Winter. If the wind howls, don't assume that the coastal footpath is safe. It isn't. It gets wet and in some sections of the footpath, waves can leap overhead.

This New Year's day, a few folks learned this lesson the hard way. On the coastal path along princely St Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a few braved the winds to stroll along the footpath. Waves were crushing dangerously close. A strong whip of waves scooped six people off the path and into the sea. A family of three visiting from Germany thankfully made it safely back to shore. Two others also managed to struggle back to safety. A young woman wasn't so lucky and perished.

Be safe. When the weather turns windy and waves start slapping the shore, stay off the coastal path. It won't be long before good coastal hiking weather returns.

Les Petites Maures

2009-12-16T11:44:00+01:00

Wow! One of the cool things about the French Riviera is that even in winter, you can find a clear sky, a mountain crest to hike and balcony views over the Mediterranean. There's snow nearby in the Mercantour if you want it, but there's also plenty of dry trails for a trek closer to the sea. No need to wait for Spring.

And for hiking close to St Ayguf, Sainte-Maxime, Fréjus, one of the best sites are the Petites Maures.

It's a low-lying set of hills between the Etangs de Villepey by St Aygulf and Les Issambres that precede the deeper wooded Maures. These hills on the Comune de Roquebrune-sur-Argens, or 518 hectares of them, belong to the Conservatoire du Littoral so they're protected and not buildable (for now). Better yet, they're full of hiking and MTB trails with gorgeous views.

Here's a good start at 6km (2 hours) of up-down treat: park at the end of the Ski Nautique lake off the D7 road that leads to Roquebrune-sur-Argens. You'll be right next to the Château Vaudois if you care for a taste. Take the F1 trail that heads up steeply, then at the top head right. If you prefer not to take the risk of getting lost heading down toward the Reydissart river below, just stay on the larger tail that follows the crestline. You can head back on the same trail all the way, for a different set of views. Or go all the way to the Bougnon mountain top (other side of D8) if you ok with some uphill. The Med and Maures views make it all worthwhile.

View Départ Rando: Les Petites Maures in a larger map