It is an old candid shot taken back in 2009 June.  It is one of my favorite places in Yangon.  A pagoda atop a hill with the blossom garden around, a very peaceful environment comparatively not crowded like other temples and pagodas.  It is genuinely an ideal Buddha’s shade to do religious works and meditation.  Yes, it is THE MAHA WIZAYA PAGODA of Yangon.  Not always but seldom, I dropped by at this PAGODA on my way back from THE SHWEDAGON PAGODA.  These two pagodas are adjacent to each other, only a single road is separated in between.

It was 10th June 2009.  I wanted to capture THE SHWEDAGON PAGODA from THE MAHA WIZAYA PAGODA hill.  I decided to go there in noon time because generally that is not crowded time and less pilgrims so that I can choose any preferential spot on the pagoda as my shooting angle.  I arrived immediately at the main entrance i saw a middle agedtranquilly meditating alone.  At that time of the day, the sun was absolutely scorching and dire temperature.  But he seemed too peaceful and unruffled doing his religious works.  Our Lord Buddha gives him charm, his mind, his body and his soul. man

WORSHIPING & MEDITATION

When you travel to Pagoda, Monastery, Stupa, Temple or any kind of Buddhist religious place in Burma, it is very common to see people keeping meditation.  We, Buddhists, normally do these religious deeds to achieve Nirvāna.  The Buddha described Nirvāna as the perfect peace of the state of mind that is free from craving, anger and other afflicting states.  When one achieves the state of Nirvāna, there is no identity left, and no boundaries for the mind. The subject who is at peace with the world, has compassion for all and gives up obsessions and fixations. In Nirvāna the root causes of craving and aversion has been extinguished, so one day when fulfilled, that person is no longer subject to human suffering instead reflect peace in and out of mind all around.  And Nirvāna is the wishful destination of every Bhuddist…

MY THOUGHT

I do not know whether he is going to achieve the state of Nirvāna.  But for the moment during his meditation, he is in genuine peace, indisputable calmness and his soul is in tranquility.  People nowadays have diverse level of belief in their religions.  Some people do not believe in “FUTURE”, the time being after death.  Excluding those non-believers or whatsoever, do try to have peaceful mind yourself sometimes.  It’s is truly serene and peaceful.  On one fine day, clear your mind, close your eyes and try to see LORD BUDDHA.  You will see, sense and get blessing from him…

Have a nice weekend ahead, my friends…

In Myanmar (formerly known as Burma), it is very common to see people keeping meditation…

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BACKGROUND

Tradition attributes the BUPAYA PAGODA to King Pyusawhti, the third King of Bagan, who ruled Bagan Dynasty in 168 to 243 A.D. Stylistically it may be ascribed to about 11th Century A.D. Within its precincts is a shrine dedicated to the GOD of Storms (Mondaing Natt).

STRUCTURE

The dome resembles the form of a cylindrical relic casket. Above it stands on bold convex band upon which rises a tapering stupa finial.

In keeping with the tradition of building pagodas in Myanmar, the BUPAYA PAGODA also conformed to the norms set for such structures. The pagoda had a massive gravity type pyramidal profile. It was built with bricks and impressively decorated. It is a bell-shaped dome built over diminishing terraces. A finial crowned the dome. The pagoda enshrined Buddha’s relics.

THE RECONSTRUCTION

The original pagoda was completely destroyed in the 1975 earthquake. As result of this earthquake, the bulbous pagoda broke into pieces and fell into the river. It was, however, fully reconstructed using modern materials, with lesser adherence to the original design. Subsequently it was built as a gilded superstructure.  The new design is a hollow reinforced concrete structure (replacing the traditional brick structure of the past). It has been built on the traditional plan of a polygonal base. The pagoda raises up in “a series of crenelated semi-circular terraces overlooking the river”. It is now fully gilded.

BUPAYA PAGODA is one of the most notable shrines among the thousands of new or ruined Pagodas in Bagan…

BUPAYA PAGODA a bell-shaped dome built over diminishing terraces…

A finial crowned the dome and the pagoda enshrined Buddha’s relics…

The Buddha image at BUPAYA PAGODA…

Standing on the brink of Irrawaddy River at Bagan, this BUPAYA PAGODA is a conspicuous landmark to navigators…

REFERENCES

Guide to Bagan. Archaeology Dept, Ministry of Culture. 1979.

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The construction of GAW TAW PALIN TEMPLE was launched during the reign of King Sithu II (also known as King Narapatisithu, 1165 – 1211) and completed during the reign of his successor, King Nadaungmya. It is Bagan’s second tallest structure and the most imposing of the Bagan temples. There are two suggested origins of the name of the temple, which means, “throne on platform to which respect or homage is paid.” One interpretation is that it formed part of traditional ceremonials honoring royal ancestors. The other explanation, wrapped in myth, is that King Sithu had demonstrated such pride and had created so many hardships through his construction of the Sulamani Guphaya that the eminent monk Panthagu Mahathera fled to Sri Lanka for six years in protest. The king persuaded him to return and paid him great honor and homage on this spot upon his return.

STRUCTURE

The GAW TAW PALIN, a large eastward-facing two-storey temple, set on a low platform in the center of a walled enclosure with four gateways. It is located just to the north of the present Archaeological Museum. It is a brick masonry structure with stone reinforcement. Its exterior dimensions are 213 x 170.5 ft (65 x 52 m), with a solid inner core on the ground floor of almost 92 x 93.3 ft (27.99 x 28.45 m). The ground floor corridors around the central core are almost 7 ft wide (2.20 x 2.19 m). The entry shrine on the ground floor is almost 23 x 38.5 ft (6.95 x 11.72 m). The second story solid core is less than half the size of that of the ground floor. There is another shrine and entrance hall, and for the first time in Bagan architecture, the primary shrine is on the second story. Barrel and diaphragm vaults cover the shrines and corridors.

The three lower terraces and four upper terraces are topped by a square tower, conical spire and umbrella that reached 180 ft (55 m); some suggest it was 200 ft (60 m.). Unfortunately, GAW TAW PALIN was near the epicenter of the 1975 earthquake; the tower was destroyed and upper parts were heavily damaged. There were repairs between 1976 and 1982; it was further strengthened, when the tower was rebuilt as a hollow reinforced concrete structure in 1991-92. About 40% of the exterior stucco moldings are still in place.

The eminent scholar G. H. Luce in comparing GAW TAW PALIN to THATBYINNYU, wrote that the romantic style has succeeded the classic, while Strachan suggests that there is a streamlining of mass in the GAW TAW PALIN with an “upwardly directed movement” that is “tall, refined and quite elegant” and, I would add, majestically unique. Such a sublime style was never again attempted at Bagan.

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That’s the grand entrance to Gaw Taw Palin…

It is Bagan’s second tallest structure and the most imposing of the Bagan temples…

The Buddha image on the ground floor of the temple…

Gaw Taw Palin is the first time in Bagan architecture, the primary shrine is on the second story…

Gaw Taw Palin is a fine brick masonry structure with stone reinforcement…

REFERENCES

Clark, Michael and Joe Cummings. Myanmar (Burma), Lonely Planet Publications, 2000.
Guide to Bagan. Archaeology Dept, Ministry of Culture. 1979.
Myat Min Hlaing. Ancient Pagodas in Myanmar Vol. I. 1993.

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Manuha Temple was built by Manuha, the captive Mon King of Thaton.  In the historical records, it was considered one of the earliest temples at Bagan. According to the Legend, King Manuha was allowed to build this temple in 1059 A.D.

The Buddha images from this temple are an allegorical representation of the physical discomfort and mental distress the captive Mon King had to endure. The builder’s grievance is graphically demonstrated by the uncomfortably seated and reclining positioned of Buhhda whose head pointing to north that symbolizes the dying Buddha was at the moment of about to enter Nirvana.

One can climb to the top of this pagoda via the stairs at the entrance to the reclining Buddha chamber, from the back of the temple. Through a window, the viewer can then see the face of the sitting Buddha, from different aspect at this level that the gigantic Buddha’s Face was so grimed look from below, yet here, an equally gigantic smile. During the earthquake of 1975, the central roof collapsed that the largest seated Buddha,was badly damaged but since has been repaired.

STRUCTURE

The exterior and overall floor plans resemble the more remote Kyauk Gu Oh Min, a rectangular box topped by a smaller rectangle. It is a reduplicated square structure with battlemented terrace as the upper story being smaller than the lower, so that the entire building appears to assume the form of a pyramid.  It contains three images of seated Buddhas all seem too large for their enclosures, and their cramped, uncomfortable positions are said to represent the stress and lack of comfort the ‘captive king’ had to endure.  At the back, is where the huge reclining ‘Parinibbana’ Buddha;  It is said that only the reclining Buddha in the act of entering Nirvana has a smile on its face, showing that for Manuha King only death was a release from his suffering.

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It is a reduplicated square structure with battlemented terrace…

The temple reflects the physical discomfort and mental distress the captive king…

This is the place where normal lens like 18mm does not work.  Wide Angle Lens is a must to cover the whole Buddha image…

The reclining Buddha the head pointing to the north symbolizes the dying Buddha about to enter Nirvana…

This is the main entrance to the temple…

This is the alms bowl at the entrance. On the important religious occasions, people offer alms to Buddha images pouring into this bowl…  It’s of 10 feet high and 5 feet in width approximately…

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The Dhammayangyi Temple is well known for its massive structure. It is the biggest structure of all buildings and temples in Bagan. The Dhammayangyi shares a similar architectural layout to Ananda Temple. The Dhammayangyi Temple is one, among the four notable monuments of Bagan.

BACKGROUND

The Dhammayangyi Temple was built and donated by King Narathu, also known as Kalagya Min (1167-1170). Kalagya Min in Burmese language means “the king killed by Indians”. The temple is located roughly a kilometer to the southeast of the city walls.

After murdering his own king father, Prince Narathu ascended the throne of Bagan and built this temple in celebration of his success. According to the records, it is said that Narathu supervise the construction of the temple himself.  He pay a great attention to the durability of the temple that masons were executed if a needle could be able to push in between bricks they had laid. But he could not been able to complete the construction since he was assassinated before the completion. The history said that he was displeased by the Hindu rituals.

STRUCTURE

There are two ambulatories in the interior floor plan of the temple. Only the outer corridor is accessible as all the entire innermost passages were intentionally blocked with brick debris for unknown reason. Three out of the four Buddha sanctums were also sealed with bricks. What very eccentric to see at The Dhammayangi is that two Buddha images in side-by-side position. Yes, the shrine at the western gate features two original side-by-side images of Gautama and Maitreya, the historical and future Buddhas. The interlocking, the mortarless brickwork at Dhammayangyi, best appreciated on the upper terraces, is said to rank as the finest masterpieces in Bagan. To prevent deterioration and corrosion, the trustee decided to lock up the highest terraces and hidden stairways leading to them.

SHOOTING

This is my old shots from Bagan road trip (June 2009).  I went there with my first hand photography teacher, Kyaw Thura Htun (TKG) and Htin Lin Aye (Mg Hla).  It was just a short trip.  I requested both of them to join me the road trip which I had scheduled 2 weeks before I left Burma.  Bagan is the land of fantasy for me.  I love shooting there.  And my gratefulness goes to TKG for his guidance and councils.  Without his supports, there won’t be Bagan series here on my blog.  I owe you a big time, bro…

Personally, this set is one of a few sets on my blog, which I would say “SATISFIED”.  Yes, I have been opportune to shoot the temple from different spots, and the nature gifted us with a cloudy blue sky. Truthfully, I have put a big amount of afford both in terms of shooting and post shooting tasks.

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The Dhammayangyi Temple is biggest structure of all buildings and temples in Bagan…

The Dhammayangyi Temple is the best brick work you can see in Bagan…

It is very eccentric to see two Buddha images in side-by-side position…

Only the outer corridor is accessible as all the entire innermost passages were intentionally blocked with brick debris for unknown reason…

A pilgrim offering gold leaves to the Buddha image on the eastern gate of the temple…

King Narathu paid a great attention to the durability of the temple and he summoned that masons were executed if a needle could be able to push in between bricks they had laid…

I have captured this from a horse drawn cart…

The Dhammayangyi Temple.  I have made this picture from Shwesandaw Pagoda the upper platform…

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Koe Htat Kyi (translated as “the nine-tiered pagoda” in English) is located on Bargayar Road, Sanchaung Township of Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon). It is the home of an enormous sitting Buddha Image. The Buddha Image at Koe Htat Kyi pagoda is also recignized as Atula Dipatti Maha Muni Thetkya Image. Chronologically, the image was built in August, 1905. The pagoda was erected on the 14-acres compound of the Bargayar monastery. The Buddha image is a 72 feet in height.

The pavilion has a nine-tiered roof and hence it is generally referred to as the nine-tiered pagoda. In the past it was a wooded hermit for monks, quiet and peaceful. There are many monasteries, devotional halls and an ordination hall in the compound. The Buddha Image was donated by U Kyin and Daw Nge San.  There is a statue of donor U Kyin was put up by his son, U Hla Swe, to recognize the religious dedications his Dad had accomplished throughout his life.

SHOOTING AGAINST DRIZZLING RAIN

It was a Sunday.  I asked my best friend, Wynn Thein, to wake me up early in the morning because I wanted to shoot Koe Htat Kyi pagoda before I left Rangoon.  Wynn Thein had given me a call at 5:00 sharp.  Actually, I was awake for the whole night reading photography articles online.  Myanmar internet is notorious.  Yes, the connection is workable only after the midnight.  Of course everyone sleeps, so the bandwidth becomes more promising. Undoubtedly, late night is the best time for me to perform data mining.

There was drizzly rain on our way to pagoda.  I thought it would not have been a setback for our shooting since Koe Htat Kyi is an indoor Buddha image. But when we arrived, the area was totally gloomy. And my honorable friend forgot to bring the tripod. Yeap, we could not shoot well due to insufficient light.  Making hand held shots in low-light occasions is like buying a lottery ticket.  The chances to achieve sharply focused pictures is very slight.  Luckily the rain stopped at 7:00 so we made our move.  It’s such a silent and peaceful place.  I really love shooting there.

The archway on the entrance of Koe Htat Kyi Pagoda…

The hallway to the Buddha image…

The 72-feet enormous sitting Buddha at Koe Htat Kyi Pagoda…

The Buddha image was also known as Atula Dipatti Maha Muni Thetkya image…

The throne prepared for the preaching monks at ordination hall of the pagoda.  There are weekly religious events during the Buddhist lent…

When the donor, U Kyin, passed away… his son erected the statue of U Kyin…

The guardians of the Buddha image…  Burmese people believe that paying homage to these guardians protect them from harms and dangers…

The pagoda is constructed on the 14-acres compound of the Bargayar monastery…

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Years of my childhood are in faded memory. Vaguely I remember, I was about 5 or 6 years old when first visited to this place.  Though I was born in Rangoon yet due to my parents’ migration of their professional works, I grew up in a Coastal city called DaWei (formerly known as TAVOY) which belonged to Southern Lower Burma region. Since young age, my parents always wanted me to improve English language and sent me to Rangoon on every summer holidays to stay with my relatives to take special English classes at St. John Convent High school. Being medical doctors by profession, my parents are always occupied with their clinical and patients’ works. Therefore they rarely could travel for any non-emergent reasons nor accompanied me whenever I had to go to Rangoon.

To be honest, I wasn’t happy the time being in Rangoon.  Though I stayed at my grandy’s house, I was feeling myself like a total stranger.  I sensed like I am at somewhere I did not belong to.  Means my summer holidays in Yangon, I cried everyday. Why?  Because I miss my parents and my town.  Seriously!!! I talked to my parents  everyday and asked them to come over Rangoon to see me. Finally, my beloved Dad came up to Yangon to see me.  I was so elated. Dad brought me around Rangoon.  Dad and I have plenty of similarities.  Our hand writing, our voice over the phone, our favorite  food and the likes.  We are Chinese but we both love eating Indian food!  There used to be a banana leaf restaurant (I can’t remember the name) on Shwebontha Street we normally go and eat. I enjoyed my Dad’s visit because I could go out here and there with him.  My aunts never let me go out even during those weekends and public holidays.

DAYS IN YANGON WITH MY DAD

One sunny day, we were walking along the Anawrahta Road (formerly known as Frazer Road).  I was so strange seeing those street vendors on platform, we sometimes eat street food and it was so fun. And Dad normally visits his close friend, Mg Mg Hnyat (Photo Mg Mg Hnyat).  This place is just next to Mg Mg Hnyat’s house.  Yes, it’s 33rd Street (Upper Block) of Kyauktada Township, Rangoon.  The area that is usually packed with numerous street vendors, photo printing shops, a few cameras and other multimedia accessories shops.  And it’s right behind the Yangon City Hall.

SHOOTING

Since my childhood days, I always see this place in my mind.  It used to be like my playground. I love that place, for the price of no reason.  Yes, I simply love it.  So I murmured myself, “I’ll shoot this place when I could buy a camera”.  I sense like I have many good memories there.  Inadvertently, I happened to go there again in 2009 June.  Actually, I went there to buy a HOYA UV filter for my NIKKOR AF 50mm f/1.8 lens.  I captured this shot after buying the filter.  And I  have transformed it as monochromatic tone means recalling my childhood days.  Time swings so fast and it’s been 20 years.  To me, there are no significant changes.  It’s unchanged, it’s untouched and it’s Rangoon.  Yes, I miss Rangoon a lot.

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Unchanged Yangon

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This is an old shot I happened to capture on 30 June 2009.  It was a rainy day.  I went out to make a series of photos for my blog post, Cathedral of Holy Trinity.  I called up Wynn Thein and San Ba, my photographer friends who always join me in shooting, but they both were busy at their work.  So, I was alone walking with my camera on Bogyoke Aung Sann Road.

While I was shooting the cathedral, I felt like someone was standing behind me.  I turned my head, there I saw these street children.  I still remember that moment the elder guy asked some money from me.  I have been told that they have not eaten their lunch yet. I wasn’t sure whether he cheated me. I looked at my watch, it was 5:30 PM.  The younger one was crying.  I searched my camera bag and found some candies.  I gave them some candies and a 500-Kyat note.  All of a sudden, he kneed down on the platform and prayed for me.  I couldn’t fetch his prayer efficiently since he was too fast murmuring lots of phrases.  One thing I could understand is, “May you be richer and richer in this life, next life and next life.”  I felt really delighted that day.  Sometimes, we feel our lives are not fun.  If so, what about these kids on the streets?  For them, uncertainty is everything, hunger is their verb and depression is their food.  I just wonder how would their tomorrows be look like.

The Abandoned Child by Janie

I am scared, hungry, tired, but afraid to sleep
I feel the pain of my cold feet
I can see only darkness

No one comes to take care of me
Mom and dad leave me alone
No one even knows I am here
Is there even one who cares?

If I cry I will be punished, so the tears well up inside
If I can just endure until tomorrow, they will be home but, what then?
Is there no end to my pain? In this cold, empty house, that some would call a home
Maybe tomorrow someone will come to rescue me
Give me warm clothes, a warm bed, and someone to say I love you…

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Dear fans and friends.  Yes, it has been couples of month that I could not update my blog.  My very standing of this blog space is to share photos taken around Burma (Myanmar).  For the sake of surviving, I am out of Burma for 5 months.  And honestly, I have been way too busy to update my blog on regular basis.  More importantly, I do not want to share photos without description and background.  On the other hand, I could not invest enough time to write those stories and facts.  Bagan photos are ready but not the descriptions.

I have been receiving new fans and came across with their appreciating comments.  Some fans even sent me personal mails to upload new photos.  So today is for you, my friends.  Some photos did not hit my norms, but then… it’s just another fool proof of me. Thanks for visiting my blog and I will try to do more. Enjoy!!!

BACKGROUND

According to Burmese tradition, it was on a hillock at this site that one thousand military officers of the king were drawn up as a guard of honor to welcome the landing in Burma of the relics of the Buddha brought over from India more than two thousand years ago. An account from ancient histories of the building of the Pagoda states that the Buddhist King Sihadipa gave one of his ministers a sacred hair from the Buddha’s head and two body relics and this minister, renowned for his goodness and faith, consulted a famous religious leader and, on his advice, chose the Botahtaung Mount on the bank of Yangon River at a distance one thousand tars (7,000 cubits) in a South-Easterly direction from the Shwedagon Pagoda and there enshrined the sacred relics.

WORLD WAR II

The pagoda was completely destroyed on 8 November 1943 when the RAF, which was bombing the nearby Yangon wharves also hit the pagoda. The pagoda was left in “blackened ruins“.

REBUILDING

Rebuilding of the pagoda started on the same day that the country gained independence from the UK: 4 January 1948. Part of the excavation process, a relic chamber was discovered. The chamber in size 20′ x 20′ and 6 in height gradually decreasing in size towards the top and appearing like a huge pot placed up-sided down to cover completely what lay inside.

In the very center of this treasure vault was discovered a wonderful stone casket in the shape of a pagoda with a diameter of 23 ins, and 39 ins, high. Encircling this stone casket were figures of nats carved out of literate and evidently placed there to act as sentinels.

One of the terracotta plaques excavated from the relic chamber bears an image of the Lord Buddha and though affected by age and moisture it is exceptionally important. On the reverse side are inscribed characters which are very close to the ancient Brahmani script which came from Southern India.

When the gold Pagoda was lifted up, a tiny gold cylinder of 3/4 ins. length with a diameter of 5/12 ins. was found and in this tiny cylinder were found two small body relics each the size of a mustard seed and what is believed to be a Sacred Hair of the Buddha. This hair was coiled round and fastened with a little lacquer on which were traces of gold plaster.

STRUCTURE

The new pagoda is of original design and in height 131 ft. 8 ins, on abase of 96 ft. x 96 ft. The main attraction is the stupa’s hollow inside, which has a mirrored maze-like walkway lined with glass showcases containing many ancient relics and artifacts that were sealed inside the earlier pagoda.

These fruit basket are so common in Burmese tradition.  People pay homage to Lord Buddha with Banana, Coconut (prepared with gold foils), scented water, candle and joss sticks…  In Burmese, we call it SHWE OHN PWE…

That’s the main entrance to the Botahtaung Pagoda…

The Buddha statue at the main entrance…

The treasure vault which houses the Buddha relics…

Like other pagodas in Burma, Botahtaung Pagoda stands on the spacey land and there is a big religious function hall (Dha-Ma-Yone) on the southern corner of the compound…

It is famous Botahtaung Pagoda of Yangon (Rangoon).  It was taken back in 2009 June, I few days before I came to Singapore…

A lady offering water and flower to the Buddha image around the pagoda…

It is very common to see these spiritual statues (guards) at the entrance of pagodas and stupas in Burma. It is believed that these spirits can hinder bad luck…

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Built in 1886, Holy Trinity Church (Yangon) perhaps the oldest colonial structure in Yangon. Holy Trinity Cathedral, an Anglican Church, was first used for Divine Service on the Second Sunday of Advent, 1865. The church held no bell, no pulpit, no font, no punkah (!), no lamps, no organ or other musical instrument, but at least it was there. It had cost 72,000 rupees, of which 10,000 had been raised by public subscription. And greater things were in store, for the English population of Rangoon was growing, and quite soon there was talk of the replacing the church with a cathedral.

STRUCTURE & LAYOUTS

This is the Anglican cathedral in Rangoon designed by Robert Fellowes Chisholm. Seemingly transplanted from England – but note the adaptation to the tropics in the porte-cochere at the base of the tower to shelter worshipers from the rain.  Although the foundation stone had been laid in 1886 by the then Viceroy of India Lord Dufferin, due to a shortage of funds it took 9 years to complete the church vestibule. The spire was added in 1913 and the bell tower installed in the following year. During the Japanese Occupation of Rangoon, the cathedral was used as a brewery! After liberation, the chapel was dedicated to the British/Indian 14th and 12th Armies who fought in the Burma Campaign.

Holy Trinity Cathedral is located at 446 Bogyoke Aung San Street, on the edge of the downtown area, a little past the Bogyoke Aung San Market as you come from the Yangon Station.  It is, of course, listed among those Top 200 buildings on the Yangon City Development Committee’s Heritage List.

Sources: ChurchCrawler, TalesOfAsia

Whenever I plan to shoot, there it rains… Finally, I had my shooting with an umbrella… A nice framing shot from the front right corner of the compound…

Built in 1886, that’s the oldest colonial structure in Yangon…

Feel the grandness of the cathedral… That’s located at the heart of Yangon…

That’s a bird-eye view of the cathedral taken from the fly-over…

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