Wine of the Week

Ninth Island 2011 Sauvignon Blanc

2012-02-24T05:45:00.000+11:00

Here’s a Tasmanian wine for those who like their sauvignon blanc fresh, flinty and minerally with heaps of crunchy acid. This is as sharp as a politician’s tongue and a reflection of the cool-climate terroir. The nose is appealingly floral and grassy and there are no signs of tropical fruit - the palate is driven by herbaceousness, asparagus and that searing acid with gooseberry and greengage notes to the fore. This would be a stunning partner to local seafood – and could also pair well with spicy Asian cuisine.

Wine by Brad 2009 Cabernet Merlot

2012-02-13T11:23:00.001+11:00

You've got to love the value for money that this label offers. A blend of the two classic Margaret River red wine grapes, this wine is a terrific choice for everyday drinking. It's flavoursome, rich, soft and very easy to drink. It's not a wine for quietly contemplating, or discussing in hushed tones. Instead, it's a wine that is a darn good drink, with a fun and funky retro label, nicely balanced and an ideal choice for a barbecue, or taking along to your local pizza or pasta joint. If you really want to know more, the label has a QR code you can scan. $18. www.winebybrad.com.au.

Rusden 2009 Full Circle Mataro

2012-02-05T15:49:00.000+11:00

From one of the unsung heroes of the Barossa Valley comes this single-vineyard mataro that is seductively savoury and beautifully balanced. A million miles away from some of the Barossa blockbusters in style, this is a wine that can confidently be savoured over several days (it was just as fresh on day three as when it was opened). It's a fruit-driven wine with 14% alcohol with a decidedly perky, spicy nose and plenty of length on the palate. Impressive, $45. www.rusdenwines.com.au.

Curly Flat 2009 Chardonnay

2012-01-29T14:49:00.000+11:00

Wow! This is an extraordinarily impressive chardonnay from Philip Moraghan's outstanding vineyard site in Victoria's Macedon Ranges - one of the coolest in the country. I left this for a few months after release and tasted it against some Premier League domestic rivals and it was a clearcut winner in top-class company. It's a lovely wine with just 13% alcohol by volume and has some stone fruit and nutty characters counterbalanced by brisk citrus. Comparisons are odious, but this is certainly Burgundian in style, crisp but at the same time supple with a beguiling complexity. Pair it with roast pork. $48. www.curlyflat.com.

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos 2011 Saludo al Txakoli

2012-01-22T14:32:00.004+11:00

Rollo and Zoe Crittenden from Crittenden Estate are having a lot of fun with their range of Los Hermanos "The Siblings" wines that focus on the various styles of the Iberian Peninsula. Made from petit manseng grapes grown in the high country of the King Valley in Victoria, this wine doffs its cap to the Txakoli wines of the Spanish Basque region, which are often enjoyed late at night with snacks known as "pintxos". This is a very different style for Australian drinkers, a spritzy but savoury dryish white that is a beautiful food match with anything from gazpacho to anchovies. It's also a great lunchtime wine with just 11.5% alcohol. Try it with tapas. $25. www.crittendenwines.com.au.

Bay of Fires 2010 Pinot Noir

2012-01-15T19:22:00.003+11:00

It is easy to see why this pinot noir from the Tamar Valley in Tasmania does so well in wine shows. It's a beautifully put together wine, aromatic, without a hair out of place - the Barbie doll of pinots, certain to be admired on all occasions. It's a wine with both poise and elegance, using top-notch fruit from around the state. Whole bunch pressing has added complexity and oak integration is spot on. You'll find sweet red berry fruit characters and dark cherry on the palate, some intriguing spice notes and some supple tannins. I just wish it had ruffled its hair a little, but that is nitpicking given the quality and drinkability. $40. www.bayoffireswines.com.au.

Domaine Begude 2010 Terroir 11300 Chardonnay

2012-01-06T11:07:00.004+11:00

Here is a wine for lovers of Chablis who cannot always afford their passion. Made by James and Katherine Kinglake in the beautiful Aude Valley between Carcassonne and Limoux, it has all the steely minerality you would associate with Chablis, along with crisp citrus, some honeyed stone fruit and great length. The award-winning vineyard has been organically farmed for the last 30 years and wine has been produced on the estate since the 16th century. The name reflects the local postcode. None of which would mean a jot if the wine wasn't so darn good. I love the intensity, the texture, the structure, the brightness and the fact it is just so refreshing. Just lovely. $27. Imported by Marcus Gniel from Ce Soir Wines. www.cesoirwine.com.

Greywacke 2011 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

2011-12-31T17:22:00.003+11:00

This is a ripping Marlborough sauvignon blanc with terrific complexity and intensity. If the name Grewacke is unfamiliar, it is the new label of former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd, whose wines are always just a little bit more interesting. This recent release has already received high praise from Jancis Robinson, the high priestess of wine writing, who said she "can't remember a Marlboro SB impressing me more." That's well-deserved acclaim for a wine that is a melifluous assemblage of flavours, ranging from gentle fruit salad to assertive minerality and deliciously zesty, crunchy citrus acidity. A small portion of the fruit was fermented in old French oak barriques to add texture and interest to a beautifully poised wine - a vinous ballerina. $26. www.greywacke.com.

Domaine Chandon 2008 Blanc de Blancs

2011-12-25T21:33:00.002+11:00

This is a very classy sparkler and a perfect choice for New Year's Eve festivities; a classic méthode traditionnelle wine put together from fruit grown in cool-climate vineyards across the country, including the Yarra Valley, Strathbogie Ranges, Macedon, Adelaide Hills, King Valley and Tasmania. Made from 100 per cent chardonnay, this is a great choice for those who like their bubblies with finesse (it would almost certainly appeal to lovers of Billecart-Salmon). Lemon and citrus notes star in a beautifully vibrant young wine from a very good vintage that is floral and boasts zesty acidity on the finish. A delightful aperitif with terrific balance and structure.$40.

Geoff Merrill 2011 McLaren Vale Grenache Rosé

2011-12-18T16:42:00.005+11:00

Geoff Merrill has been making wine for over three decades and sometimes his "out there" personality and knack for marketing serve to obsure the fact that he is also seriously talented in the winery. While Merrill is best known for his voluptuous, age-worthy reds, he shows a deft touch with this rosé, an excellent choice for summer drinking. It's a vibrant pink wine that hits all the right notes with lively cherry and raspberry characters on an attractive fruity palate. It has 14% alcohol but carries it well. Made from bush vine fruit, the wine also has some spicy/savoury notes and finishes long and dry with some cracking acidity. Chill, serve, enjoy. $20. www.geoffmerrillwines.com.au.

Hesketh 2010 Perfect Stranger Krems Gruner Veltliner

2011-12-12T10:30:00.000+11:00

The Austrian grape variety gruner veltliner is becoming increasingly popular in Australia with producers including Lark Hill, Hahndorf Hill and Stoney Rise all making excellent examples. This wine, however, is the real deal; a collaboration between Austrian winemaker Bert Salomon, whose family have been making wines in Kremstal since 1792, and Australian Jonathon Hesketh, a negociant who has an impressive range. I really enjoyed the spicy poached pear notes of this wine - and the delightful bright acidity. This new release is aromatic, dry, food-friendly and a great choice for summer drinking. It's also surprisingly affordable. $26. www.heskethwinecompany.com.au.

Toscar 2009 Monastrell

2011-12-03T16:09:00.004+11:00

Wow! I tasted this impressive Spanish import blind and mentally priced it at around $30+. It was a rather pleasant surprise, then, to find it actually sells for $15-16. Made by Salvador Poveda in the Alicante region from the grape we call mourvedre but the Spanish call monastrell, the fruit was dry grown and organically treated. The wine has delightful sweet/sour impact on the palate. It's quite a rich, savoury offering with serious tannin structure, but weighs in at just 13.5% alcohol. I enjoyed the combination of sweet dark cherry and black plum fruit with delicatessen and balsamic notes. Full of interest and with a real sense of place, it is imported by Marcus Kniel of Ce Soir Wines. Phone him on 0447 772 387. $16. www.cesoirwine.com.

Eldridge Estate 2011 PTG

2011-11-25T17:28:00.003+11:00

David Lloyd from Eldridge Estate on the Mornington Peninsula is passionate about both pinot noir and the Beaujolais grape gamay, so it makes total sense for him to have put together a 50-50 blend of the two red varieties to produce an Australian version of the Burgundy blend known as passetoutgrain. Lloyd is a wine technician, but this releaase is all about fun. Excuse me if I gush a little, but this is the perfect young red wine for summer. It's a fresh and lip-smackingly good wine that could stand a few minutes of chilling on a warm day. It's dominated by raspberry and red cherry characters with just a few spicy hints. More importantly, it is deliciously drinkable and delightfully food friendly. If this doesn't sell out sooner rather than later I will be extremely surprised. It's worth buying at least a case. $25. www.eldridge-estate.com.au.

Bowen Estate 2009 Coonawarra Shiraz

2011-11-21T09:01:00.003+11:00

The Bowen family are salt-of-the-earth country folk who produce only three wines each vintage; a cabernet sauvignon, a shiraz and chardonnay. Their labels are minimalist, they still use cork as a closure and their wines are reliably good – and excellent value. This wine, made by father and daughter team Doug and Emma Bowen, has 15 per cent alcohol but you wouldn’t know it, as while it is forceful it also is beautifully balanced with ripe, dark, juicy and sinuous fruit flavours knitted together with hints of spice and laidback cedary oak. It has some attractive savoury tannins and demands to be enjoyed with a dish like traditional roast lamb. $27.

Bream Creek 2010 Late Picked Schonburger

2011-10-22T11:20:00.004+11:00

Fred Peacock from Tasmanian vineyard Bream Creek (situated on the road to Port Arthur and overlooking Marion Bay and Maria Island) believes this may be the only dessert-style schonburger made anywhere in the world. His plantings - he also makes a dry version - were certainly the first in the southern hemisphere. It's a delightfully floral wine, with rose petal and Turkish Delight aromas leading on to a soft, delicate palate with those two characters again prominent. The sugar levels are kept in check by some bright acid, making this a thoroughly delicious wine. $26. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.

Shaw Vineyard Estate 2009 Premium Shiraz

2011-10-22T11:12:00.003+11:00

There are some stunning shirazes emerging from the Canberra region; more elegant expressions that are full of interest without being overwhelming. This is a dark purple colour, with oodles of spicy black fruit/Christmas cake characters on the nose leading to ripe, dark berry and currant notes on the palate, which also boasts some intriguing Asian spice notes. It handles its 14.5% alcohol well and is one of those wines that doesn't demand constant attention. A lovely, soft red for everyday drinking pleasure. $22. www.shawvineyards.com.au.

Cooks Lot 2011 Orange Sauvignon Blanc

2011-10-22T11:01:00.004+11:00

Cooks Lot, the vinous creation of former Sydney chef Duncan Cook, is one of those Mudgee labels that sometimes flies under the radar, perhaps due to a lack of serious marketing budget. The wines have improved dramatically over the past couple of years and this is an outstandingly crisp and refreshing young sauvignon blanc, made from Orange fruit. It's a really floral and clean unoaked wine with gooseberry aromas and some delightful tang on the palate, which boasts grapefruit, passionfruit and nashi pear flavours. A lovely white for enjoying well chilled, in its youth. $20. www.cookslot.com.au.

Clonakilla 2010 Shiraz Viognier

2011-10-21T19:03:00.004+11:00

Tim Kirk at Murrumbateman, just outside Canberra, has created the benchmark for cool-climate shiraz/viognier blends. There’s fragrant perfume and lift from the viognier on the nose, but the complex palate has blackberry and plum flavours allied to white pepper and mocha. A gentle, complex, medium-bodied wine that evolves impressively in the glass. This is not a wine that jumps out at you, rather one that creeps up on you with its lithe muscularity. It's a beautifully constructed wine. $100. www.clonakilla.com.au.

Pikes 2009 Luccio Sangiovese

2011-10-15T17:13:00.003+11:00

Sometimes all I want is a savoury red wine that's easy to drink, goes well with food and doesn't cost a fortune. This wine from a reliably good family producer ticks all three of those boxes. Made from 100% sangiovese from the Clare Valley, this is a deliciously slurpable medium-bodied red that would be perfect with a wide range of Mediterranean dishes, from pizzas and pastas to prosciutto. Juicy and approachable but dry and earthy, it is a wine for enjoying with friends rather than one to be dissected and discussed. $18. www.pikeswines.com.au.

Cullen 2009 Kevin John Chardonnay

2011-10-07T18:36:00.004+11:00

If you are looking for Australia's best answer to grand cru Burgundy then you've come to the right place. Biodynamicist Vanya Cullen is crafting some sensational, and beautifully balanced, chardonnays that are pure, complex and full of interest. The fruit for the 2009 Kevin John, named in honour of her father, was picked at intervals over two weeks and at a range of baumés, resulting in added textural interest. Both the nose and palate offer a melange of citrus and stone fruit but there is also some crisp acidity, beautifully integrated oak and some flinty linearity. A truly great wine - and the fourth straight vintage in which I have regarded it worthy of a review. $105. www.cullenwines.com.au.

Grosset 2011 Off-Dry Watervale Riesling

2011-10-03T13:16:00.003+11:00

The second release of riesling maestro Jeffrey Grosset's single vineyard off-dry riesling from the Clare Valley is a step up again from his impressive first vintage. It's a bright and lively wine that's characterised by vivacious lemon blossom and freshly cut lime notes on both the nose and palate, searing minerality and beautifully balanced acidity with the 16g/l of residual sugar adding interest rather than obvious sweetness. One for lovers of German/Austrian wines, or those who simply find young Clare rieslings too confronting, this is perfectly pitched and would be delightful with a Thai banquet. $34. www.grosset.com.au.

Pertaringa 2009 Tannat

2011-09-24T18:07:00.004+10:00

Tannat (the only palindromic grape variety with which I am familiar) is common in the south-west of France, in the foothills of the Pyrenees principally, where it is used as both a stand-alone variety and in red blends, and also in Uruguay, where it is the most common wine grape. McLaren Vale winery Pertaringa is excited about late-ripening tannat's potential in that warm region and this is certainly an impressive wine; a powerful, tannic offering (as is typical with tannat). It is deep purple in colour with ripe, dark berry fruit flavours and chocolate and earthy characters, toasty vanillin oak and fine-grained tannins. A wine of power and structure that will cellar well and would certainly benefit from decanting. $30. www.pertaringa.com.au.

Turkey Flat 2011 Rosé

2011-09-07T15:44:00.004+10:00

I must admit I am a sucker for the rosé revolution; all these new-wave, food-friendly, dry rosés that are perfect lunchtime wines - and are pretty darn good with dinner too. This wine has been one of the flagbearers. A blend of grenache, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and dolcetto from the Barossa Valley, it is light, crisp and refreshing with a nice balance between red fruit characters and savoury nuances. You could take this on a picnic, pair it with a Lebanese banquet or simply qauff it on the porch on a warm evening. Viva la Revolucion! $$18. www.turkeyflat.com.au

Saint Albert 2009 Pacherenc du Vic Bilh

2011-09-07T11:56:00.003+10:00

Another terrific late-picked wine from Producteurs Plaimont, one of the most consistent co-operatives in the south-west of France. An affordable alternative to the dessert wines of Sauterne, this is a blend of four south-western grapes; petit manseng, gros manseng, petit corbu and arrufiac from the Madiran region. You’ll find ripe citrus and tropical fruit salad notes on the nose, leading in to more ultra-ripe fruit on the palate, balanced by some delightfully fresh acidity. Complexity has been added by oak maturation and while this would be great with puddings, it would also work with pates and blue cheeses. $36 for 500ml. www.discovervin.com.au.

Brokenwood 2009 Graveyard Shiraz

2011-09-04T18:40:00.002+10:00

The price of the individual-vineyard Graveyard keeps rising - but what a serious wine you get for your money. Made from vines that are 40+ years old, this is a Hunter classic from an excllent vintage. It is a plush, savoury and spicy shiraz with great tannin structure that will doubtless cellar for decades if you have the willpower (and it is under screwcap to ensure it is not spoiled by cork taint as it reaches maturity). That said, it is drinking beautifully in its gangly teen years, its intense dark fruit beautifully in balance with the French oak. A stunner. $150. www.brokenwood.com.au