Of all the trips we took in the last few decades, our 4-month jaunt through South America was definitely one of the most action-packed journeys we’ve taken. With the world’s biggest rainforest, second highest mountain range and some of the most remote and exotic islands in the world; it is a continent built for adventure. We admired the outrageous beauty of Macchu Picchu, trekked through the Amazon rainforest, got soaked at the Iguazu Falls, and spotted wildlife on the Galapagos Islands – all of my favorite spots, all in one region.

When I learned about the Inca Rally, I was beyond excited.  Racing on your own vehicle from Peru into Ecuador, crossing the Andes, up through Colombia, across the Caribbean coastline and Amazonian basin to Venezuela and finally into Guyana, the finishing line — that sure as hell sounded like an epic adventure.

So What is the Inca Rally?

The Inca Rally is opened to anyone who’s got a sense of adventure and undying determination. It is a race that tests your wits, determination, mental strength and tolerance – and all of it, for a good cause. The Inca Rally’s slogan reads, “This is real adventure. With a purpose.” Besides overcoming obstacles on the road, you’ll also be helping to raise fund for local charities such as Survival International and Incawasi.

To join the rally, you just need to register online - pay £100 to secure the team’s place in the race and the remaining £200 before 1st June. The adventure begins in Lima, Peru, where you’ll have to acquire the best vehicle their limited pesos can afford, and then it’s show time! Over the next 3 weeks, you will navigate bumpy dirt tracks and overcome obstacles that you’d never thought you could handle. Along the way, you’ll also meet some interesting locals, try bizarre foods, see some of the most magnificent natural wonders and visit charities and community projects before partying with a loud bang. At the end of the race – almost covering almost 8,000km of distance, there will be a celebratory event awaiting in Georgetown, Guyana where you can bask in all the glory of having completed this unique rally.

Win Free WildJunket Magazine Subscriptions

In support of their truly adventurous spirit, we’ve joined forces with theInca Rally to give away free WildJunket Magazine subscriptions to anyone who signs up for the rally before 1st June 2012! Submit the promo code WILDJ when you register and our annual subscriptions (6 issues) that usually costs US$14.95 will be delivered straight to your email!

 Good luck to those who’ve signed up for the Inca Rally! Have fun on the road!

Just as the sizzling heat sets in, this Summer Special issue of WildJunket Magazine inspires with a host of stories from the tropics: with our cover feature on island-hopping in the Philippines, sailing the Darién Gap from Colombia to Panama and a comprehensive travel guide on Turkey.

Contributing Editor Candace Rose Rardon has just returned from walking the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route in Northern Spain and she shares with us a long and personal account of her experience in this issue. Our new editorial assistant, Erin Ridley, reveals an endearing side to former Soviet Union nation, Georgia, in our Under the Radar section. From a recent trip to Belize, Gear Editor Lenore Greiner uncovers a very different side to the Caribbean country – tracing back to its Mayan roots and what’s remaining of it today. One of my favorite stories in this issue is from Travelbite’s editor Sarah Gibbons, who takes us on an adrenaline-charged journey mountain-biking the ‘Death Road’ in Bolivia.

Also in this issue: Our Feast section brings us to the hypnotizing souks of Marrakech, Morocco, where we get lost in a whirlpool of spices and smells.  Our Travel Rant columnist Mike Sowden explains, in his usual humor, why it’s wise to ‘crappify’ your valuables to avoid falling victim to crime when traveling.  Over at our Travel Thoughts section, Candace talks about the “return visit dilemma”.

Issue #3 (June/July2012):

• PHILIPPINES: Remote beaches and virgin jungles on 7,107 islands
• COLOMBIA: Latin flavors in photos
• BELIZE: Inside the Mayan world
• SPAIN: Walking the Camino de Santiago
• TURKEY: From ancient ruins to mountains, our 10-page guide

The rest of Issue #3:

• Trip Ideas: 10 Diving Trips
• Under the Radar: Georgia
• Dispatches: Biking the ‘Death Road’ in Bolivia
• Just Back: Sailing the Darién Gap
• Feast: Marrakech, Morocco
• Stay: Nikoi Island, Indonesia

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This is the second edition of an ongoing series of reviews on properties (budget hotels and hostels) we’re staying at during our travels in Asia, as part of our partnership with HostelBookers.com.

On the streets of Hanoi, traffic ebbs and flows as slick chrome scooters weave between old-school rickshaws and pushcarts. Miniature stools and tables line the alleys, where street vendors have set up shop, brewing up hot and steamy pho for the daily stream of customers. Centuries-old colonial buildings stand alongside marble-floored mini-hotels while hundreds of cables criss-cross overhead. Yes, it’s chaos all over Hanoi – but instead of ruining the city, adds to its charm.

During our time in Vietnam, we spent two weeks in Hanoi to recharge and catch up on work. I’m not a big fan of big cities – allergic to places like New York and London – but I was strangely hypnotized by the poetic flow of disorder in this city. Somehow – in the midst of streetside pho and bia hoi stands – I got hooked to Hanoi. We didn’t do much sightseeing – instead we spent our days wandering through the narrow alleyways of the Old Quarters, strolling along the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake – the liquid heart of the city, and hopping from one food stand to the next. At our favorite cafe, La Place, we spent long afternoons working on our laptops and sipping fresh lime juice, to a view of St Joseph Cathedral. Most of all, we spent time kicking back at our base in the Splendid Star Grand Hotel, living like a local.

Snucked tightly within the narrow alleys of the Old Quarters, the hotel brings all the mod cons of this millennium right into the historical heart of the city – stepping into the hotel feels almost akin to time travel. Right on its doorsteps are ladies wearing conical straw hats, selling steamed banh baos and barbequed meat skewers – but once through its doors, you’re transported to modern-day Vietnam. With its polished and stylish decor, it looks more like a slick boutique hotel than a family-run establishment, but with strong cozy, friendly vibes, it makes one feel comfortable, welcomed and at home. The hotel staff is always friendly and cheeky, sharing excellent recommendations and a joke or two.

Despite its ‘mini-hotel’ label, its rooms are, again, quite the opposite of ‘mini’. Spread out generously over wooden parquet flooring, the double rooms are spacious and bright – almost a rarity in space-constrained Hanoi. Although there’s not much of a view outside – with the neighboring buildings just an arm’s length away (as with anywhere else in the Old Quarters), the sunlight that spills through the massive room definitely creates an airy setting. Silk lampshades hang from the ceiling, with oil paintings of old world Hanoi in the backdrop. Fusing old and new – just like the city itself – black and red embroidered cushions are combined with polished wooden furnishing. With a comfortable working desk, lighting fast high-speed internet and even an in-room desktop computer (!!), the hotel room makes an excellent office for digital nomads like us.

Breakfast at Splendid Star is a huge affair: I’m a big fan of Vietnamese food – if you still haven’t noticed by now – and the hotel offers a range of breakfast items that even my favorite street vendor lady can’t compare. From local delights like banh mi and steamed sticky rice to thick, juicy club sandwiches, you can choose anything from the massive list of items, and best of all, breakfast comes complimentary with the room.

Splendid Star Hotel is so splendid (forgive me for the punt) – that the owner has opened up several hotels of the same name next door. We stayed at Splendid Star Grand Hotel for most part of our time there, and also two nights at Splendid Star Jupiter Hotel. The latter has slightly smaller rooms, with simpler design and furnishing, but it’s also cheaper and almost as comfortable. For those interested in staying here, be sure to check which Splendid Star they’re booking you into when making your reservations with hostelbookers.

We had initially planned to stay in Hanoi for just a week, but ended up extending our stay at Splendid Star (paid for part of it ourselves) – just because we’d enjoyed it so much. I might have still fallen in love with Hanoi without Splendid Star, but one thing is for sure, our experience in Hanoi wouldn’t have been the same without them.

Prices for Splendid Star Grand Hotel start from US$24 a night, with rooms ranging from private doubles to family rooms.

Disclaimer: Our stay was made possible by hostelbookers and Splendid Star Hotel, but all opinions are my own.

In Northern Vietnam, thousands of grottos and limestone cliffs dot the emerald waters of Halong Bay. Junk boats ply its water, against the natural backdrop of dark green rock formations shrouded in mist. The limestone in this bay has gone through 500 million years of formation in different conditions and environments to evolve into the picturesque site it is today. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the attraction is easily the most famous site in the country and also the most visited – with nearly three million tourists cruising its waters every year.

Without proper regulations and safety standards in place, Halong Bay has unfortunately fallen victim to environmental issues and even fatal accidents. In 2011, a boat sank, killing 12 tourists in Halong Bay – shocking the world with the tragic news. According to several comments from travelers on Lonely Planet, this isn’t an isolated incident.

A Traveler’s Dilemma

Before arriving to Vietnam, we’d found ourselves in a dilemma – to visit Halong Bay and contribute to the existing environmental problems? Or skip it altogether but possibly miss one of the country’s most beautiful sites? Like many others, we’d heard many sing praises of Halong Bay and its dreamy setting; but we’d also heard plenty of travelers rant about the crowd, the pollution and the unethical behavior of local tour operators.

By the time we arrived in Hanoi, we were convinced we had to see it for ourselves. After all, this was our second time in Vietnam and we both love the country – both the good and the bad. We booked ourselves on a mid-range overnight boat trip (prices range from $30 to $200+, we paid $67 for ours) - with not much expectations and a glimmer of hope that it wouldn’t disappoint. But it did. And it opened my eyes to what tourism can do to a place. The beauty of the poetic landscapes is undeniable, but the sheer amount of environmental destruction is enough to put off any traveler with a conscience.

Even before boarding our boat, we’d found a thick layer of oil and bits of rubbish floating on the water surface just off the shore of Bai Chay town (an unattractive and artificial town built all the way into the bay). Our boat, Dugong Sail – a rickety white boat with a roaring engine – was obviously nothing like what the operator had promised. In all honesty, we didn’t do as much research as we should have. In a fragile environment like Halong Bay, it is important to travel with only ethical and responsible tour operators – and in this situation, we’d obviously made a mistake.

Environmental Destruction At Halong

Upon sailing into the open waters,  it was clear we were not going to be the only boat around – around ten others were sailing in the same direction. Apparently every single boat followed the same itinerary. By the time we got to the cave, we were in the company of at least 20 other boats and hundreds of people climbing the stairways into the cave. As we docked, another boat was leaving and cruising too close to us for comfort. We watched, amused and slightly horrified, as it jarred right past us, missing us by just a few inches. Our boat followed suit, squeezing its way between two other double-decked junks – with the bow of the neighboring boat hitting one of our mates on the back (luckily it didn’t hurt him) – this time, nobody was laughing.

Back in the cave, we walked elbow to elbow with at least a hundred other tourists. The cave was rather impressive, with giant stalactites and stalagmites jutting from within and the ceiling reaching up to 8 or 10 meters in height. Unfortunately, the interior of the cave was lit up with kitsch rainbow colored lighting, and lined with signboards and steps – with coca cola cans and plastic bags strewn all over the place. From the top of the cave, we saw a massive construction project underway at its shore, turning the emerald water into a murky brown color – our guide told me they were building a port, to accommodate even more boats. I couldn’t help but cringe: was this not enough already? 

We spent the evening cruising deeper into the Gulf of Tonkin, leaving behind the trail of junk boats and finding ourselves cruising silently into more pristine waters. The air was fresh, the sounds of eagles flying overhead echoed in the distance. We weaved past tiny uninhabited isles and only saw boats sailing in the far distance. At this point, I almost felt that the trip was worthwhile – and perhaps after all, Halong Bay wasn’t as destroyed as I’d imagined. But the next morning proved me wrong.

We awoke to the sound of boats setting sail all around us and our engine roaring even louder than before. Dropping anchor at a narrow bay, we hopped onto a floating village to get onto our kayaks for the morning paddle. Damp and dirty life-vests, rusty kayaks and broken paddles – nothing surprising. But as we paddled out into the sea, we saw our fellow traveling mates almost getting run down by a junk boat that refused to give way to them. Just last year, a pair of kayakers had actually been run down by a boat, but had fortunately survived the accident. I shuddered at the thought of it – safety apparently wasn’t a priority here at all. We paddled more across the channel – the smell of the contaminated water was unbearable by now and the pollution even more so - we were literally paddling amidst dead fish and clusters of rubbish.

Emerald green rice terraces shimmered in the distance, as water buffaloes ploughed through the soggy field. In the backdrop, the towering Hoang Lien Son mountain range lay shrouded in mist while clusters of bamboo huts sprawled across its foothills. It had rained the day before and now the poetic landscape seemed even more beautiful than ever. We had left the town of Sapa in Lao Cai province that morning and within a few miles of walk, we were trekking through winding valleys and steep slopes. This is one of the last frontiers of Vietnam, far out in the northern reaches close to the Chinese border.

I had long heard about the beautiful countryscape and the Hmong ethnic groups who inhabit this region — and it didn’t disappoint. While this trail is clearly well-trodden (as with most parts of Vietnam), it didn’t fail to impress – we experienced Vietnam’s backcountry, stayed in a local’s home, and met plenty of Hmong people (who all offered a helping hand during the challenging trek).  Here are some of our photos from Sapa, hope they’ll give you a good glimpse of Northern Vietnam.

Making our way into the remote villages of Lao Cai

A Hmong girl with a baby on her back. Hmong girls tend to marry very young, around the age of 14 or 15.

Water buffalos are used to plough through the rice fields.

Beautiful rice paddies shimmer under the sunshine.

A Hmong lady weaving on the streets. Many of these ladies make a living from selling handicraft to tourists.

Crossing a new bridge that spans across the river, connecting two villages in the Lao Cai province.

A group of Red Hmong ladies gathering for their market day.

Trekking through bamboo forests, we slipped and slided along the muddy paths.

Our homestay host cooking up a storm in her house.

After three weeks of traveling around the Philippines, we simply wanted to kick back for a few days in Crusoe-esque splendor – and on Sumilon Island we did just that. Located 10 km from Cebu island, it might be just a hop away from civilization but it sure felt like a world apart. Landing on the island’s sandbar, we stepped foot on the fine bone-white sand and clear-as-glass water; while the smiley and relaxed staff greeted us by our first names and handed us fresh fruit punch — it was as though we’d arrived on our very own private island.

Sumilon Island is an untouched island, run by an exclusive property, Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort, which gives near meaning to the experience of being castaway. Thick virgin rainforests and rugged coral terrain are kept in their original conditions, while the sparkling clear water surrounding it are protected even more so by Bluewater and relevant research groups. A clusters of stylish, and tastefully designed bungalows stand on the waterfront and an infinity pool is perched on a hilltop overlooking the sea.

On Sumilon, we spent our days eating fresh fish and snorkeling with live ones, collecting shells on the empty beach, and swaying on the hammock right by the spearmint blue sea. By day, we sipped mango juice on our verandah and whiled away the afternoon on the beach, and by night, we dined under the starry skies with sand running between our feet.

Jungle Trekking

But it’s obvious there’s much more to Sumilon island than relaxation. Teeming with lush virgin rainforests, the island is a patchwork of wilderness that’s easy to explore on foot. After days of beach bumming, we strapped on our hiking boots to criss-cross the island. Sumilon is mapped out with a network of trekking trails that cuts through the interior of the island and runs along the craggy coastline. With the ocean right by our sides, we trekked past scuttling crabs and wound along lava rock paths with the sea cliffs plunging vertically into the water right beneath our feet.

Within the dense rainforest, we stumbled upon several natural caves including the Yamashita Cave, a dark refuge tucked within banyan trees. For centuries, these caves provided shelter for fishermen to escape from the storms. They were the people who gave the island its name — ‘Sumilon’, translated to mean ‘to take refuge’.

We followed the trail through acres of natural forests, before ending at a lighthouse and an old Spanish baluarte, a historical watchtower built in the 19th century during the Spanish colonial era. This baluarte was built by the Spanish frays to deter slavers and marauders from attacking local communities. Despite being a hidden isle these days, Sumilon evidently played a vital role a few centuries ago.

Kayaking in the Mangroves

On the other end of the island, a natural lagoon lies inland teeming with mangroves and swampy waters. We paddled out on kayaks, close to the mangroves to observe the myriad of insects and birds that flew overhead. Huge spiders spinned their web around the green mangrove trees, while tiny toads leapt from one root to another. Under the shadow of tall granite cliffs that towered over the mangroves, we splashed through the brackish water and saw a different type of eco-system on this tiny island.

Snorkeling in the House Reefs

In the afternoons, we often grabbed our snorkeling masks and fins and plunged into the water just on our doorstep. The sea surrounding Sumilon is home to some of the most biodiverse systems in the world: with coral-rich dive sites bursting and a huge abundance of tropical marine species. This was the first marine protected area in the Philippines and has been a marine sanctuary since 1974.

Unfortunately, its corals were severely ravaged by the Muro Ami fishermen with their dynamite fishing technique a few decades ago. Thanks to the combined efforts of relevant research groups and Bluewater, it has now flourished into a world class 39-hectare sanctuary that serves as a home to thousands of aquatic animals.

Snorkeling off the sandbar, we found patchworks of multi-hued coral beds sprawled across the seabed that extended into the horizon. It was rare to find such a colorful coral garden right off the beach – something we’d usually dive deep into the ocean to find. Soon enough, we were swimming with schools of silvery barracudas, rainbow-colored giant parrot fish and even black eels. Black-tipped sharks have been seen in this area too – a pity the creature eluded us.

Beachfront Lifestyle

Back in our room, we idled away the evenings sitting out on the verandah – either reading a book, sleeping on the hammock or typing away on our laptops (it’s so relaxing to work in such an environment!). Our room was simple and luxurious both at once – with large comfortable beds, teak wood tables, lounge chairs, TV and air-conditioning – all within ten steps from the beach.

For those on a budget, the resort also has a glamping option – in beautiful and spacious tents right on the beach, with outdoor tables and chairs to enjoy the sand and sea all to yourself. You can also visit the island on a daytrip, with meals and island activities at your disposal. Whatever the choice, Sumilon Island definitely gives the sensation of being castaway on a lost island in the middle of the ocean – although in reality, civilization is just a hop away.

Details:

How to get there: Bluewater Sumilon Resort provides free transfers by boat from Oslob, a beach town in Southeast Cebu. It is approximately three hours from Cebu City by public bus.

Prices: Room rates start from 12,000PHP (US$280) per night; glamping packages at 9,500PHP (US$225) inc. full-board meals for two persons and one child; and a daytrip starting at 1,500 PHP (US$35). For more packages, check out this page.

Disclaimer: Our stay was made possible by Bluewater Sumilon Resort, but all opinions expressed above are our own.

“You can’t come to the Philippines and not go scuba diving,” said American dive master Gary Finney.

Sporting an army-style crew cut, the expat continued to explain why, “The Philippines has some of the highest concentration of reef-building corals in the world, and here on Negros, we’re lucky to be surrounded by them.”

We were on Negros to do just that – immerse ourselves in its underwater world. The water surrounding the eastern coast of Negros is home to some of the best dive sites in the country, some even dare say, the world. It was one of the reasons that had drawn him here.

Having chocked up over 7,500 dives in the last 50 years or so working as a commercial diver in Mexico, Gary is probably the most experienced diver in town – yet during our dive in Dauin Marine Sanctuary, he was as excited as us to see a giant hawksbill turtle. He has been diving everyday in the area for the last decade or so, yet his enthusiasm for his adopted country and its marine life remains unchanged.

Underwater Dreamland

Off the shore of the rugged Apo Island (an offshore island that belongs to Negros), we spotted fluorescent-pink sea anemones, lettuce-like fan corals, and throngs of psychedelic fish shimmering like silver leaves. Swimming with the current, we glided alongside a vertiginous coral wall that plunged away below us into the depths of nothing – to my right, giant marble groupers weaving around neon-colored coral gardens; on my left, an ethereal expanse of blue.

Apo is most famous for the hawksbill turtles that inhabit its shores – even snorkelers get to see them from the shallow clear waters off the beach. We spotted almost five of them, along with giant lobsters that crept beneath giant coral plates, blue manta rays that flew gracefully past us, as well as schools of angel fish and sweet lips that all merge together to form a tornado of rainbow colors.

Gary’s child-like enthusiasm obviously rubbed off on us, as we all tapped our tanks and cheered –divers’ style, struck by the spectacular seascapes. “This is my favorite place to dive, it always surprises me – No two dives here are the same,” Gary shared. Our fellow divers – a French family who was just here last year diving Apo Island with Gary – were equally captivated by the marine life here, “We dive a lot near our home in France, but here everything is so different – the corals are so colorful and marine life is so much more vibrant. We love it so much that we decided to come back – maybe we will return again next summer – who knows!”

As we cruised back to land, I looked back over my shoulder to see the deserted Apo Island shimmering in the tropical sunlight. On land or underwater, Apo Island was dramatically beautiful no matter how you looked at it.

Monarch Sands organizes dive trips to Dauin Marine Sanctuary, areas around Tambobo Marine Sanctuary and Apo Island. Prices are at 3 dives for 3,800 pesos (US$90).

Disclaimer: Our dive trip was made possible by Monarch Sands, but all opinions expressed above are our own. Special thanks to Sandrine Leclercq for providing the underwater photos above.

Before coming to Myanmar, I had no clue what to expect – many friends have told us how amazing the country is, but only upon stepping foot on its holy soil, visiting its thousands of pagodas, navigating its chaotic streets, and talking to the Burmese, did I understand how captivating this country is. From the shimmering Shwedagon Paya in Yangon to the stupa-studded landscapes of Bagan and the poetic water world of Inle Lake, Myanmar is a country so pristine, raw and untouched, it’s hard to believe that a country like that exists in today’s world.

The people too captured our hearts deeply: I lost count of the number of people who came up to us and said, “Thank you for coming to Myanmar. Welcome.” Whether it was the monk who chatted with me for hours on the train, or the taxi-driver who told us stories about Myanmar, they were the ones who made this place so special. Perhaps it’s because of years of isolation from the outside world (with the strict military regime and the ban of tourism), perhaps it’s the deep-rooted Burmese culture, Myanmar remains pure and untainted – for now. Here are some of Alberto’s best shots from around Myanmar, we hope the photos can bring you on the journey with us and hope they give you an idea of what we’re feeling.

The thousands of stupas that dot the landscapes of Bagan

The river banks of the Ayeryawaddy in Bagan

The stupa-studded hills of Sagainn, a quiet town near Mandalay where Burmese Buddhists come to meditate

Warm greetings from a boatful of monks in Inle Lake

A fisherman looks for the catch of the day in Inle Lake

A young boy gives me a nod of approval as I snap this shot from the train. He’s seen wearing chalk white Thanaka powder on his face, a commonly used beauty cream and sunscreen in Myanmar.

Double Buddha statues in the biggest stupa in Bagan

Playful children frolick in the waters of Inle Lake

A vermillion sunset against the mountains surrounding Inle Lake

World-renowned for its windswept coastline and champion football team, Uruguay is gently conquering the hearts and minds of sophisticated wine connoisseurs, zealous world explorers and hidden culture aficionados.

By Anya Oskolkova | Originally published in WildJunket Magazine April/May 2012

With swagger and suaveness, Uruguay has the air of a quiet yet charismatic gentleman. Unlike its flashy neighbors, the country oozes subtle charm and seduces by slowly unveiling itself to those curious enough to thread its paths. Geographically complex, Uruguay is as diverse as any other country in South America – from traditional gaucho culture to colonial history; glitzy beaches to lush jungles; dramatic beaches to towering sand dunes. It’s all packed in one small land the size of Washington State.

Unlike its flashy neighbors, Uruguay oozes subtle charm and seduces by slowly unveiling itself to those curious enough to thread its paths.

Despite such diversity, Uruguay comes off as a proud, united nation where soccer is worshipped like a religion and parilla steak is enjoyed by everyone, as is the fine red wine fermented in local vineyards.

Not as under-the-radar as it used to be, this South American country is still far off the conventional tourist trail and offers plenty of unexplored travel routes.

In the country’s southwest lies a patchwork of ancient towns that leaves plenty of history aficionados in awe, for good reasons. The famous Old Town Montevideo illustrates an easy-going Uruguayan lifestyle against the backdrop of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The Atlantic coast in the east is littered with a striking variety of beach towns reminiscent of the French Riviera, but without the flashy glitz and glamor. A favorite among South Americans, these Uruguayan beach towns are best known for their nonchalant atmosphere and laidback style.

The northwestern route will please anyone who seeks to discover new cultures and embrace local traditions. Here, you’ll be warmly welcomed by hospitable and down-to-earth gauchos or cowboys who are more than eager to show you their slice of the country on horseback.

Within the country’s interior, experience a different kind of rural nature amidst luscious forests and preserved green parks, as well as picturesque creeks and challenging hiking trails. These remote corners are magnets for intrepid travelers seeking adventure and thrill.

Despite all that the country has to offer, it’s the Uruguayans that will probably strike you most. With their positive spirit and energy, they’ll surprise, motivate and move you in ways you’d never imagine.

This is just a preview of the 10-page feature article in WildJunket Magazine.

About the Author

If you enjoyed this preview, you can read the full article  in WildJunket Magazine April/May 2012.

Read full article

“Filipinos have always bonded through food,” said Ivan, “The best deals have been settled on the dining table.”

With that, we began our journey into the Philippine culinary world. In Manila’s Binondo district, also known as Chinatown, we met up with our guide, Ivan Mandy, who co-owns Old Manila Walks, an outfitter that aims to unpeel the skin of Manila for the curious visitor. Spotting an animated personality, the Filipino-Chinese spoke with much passion and enthusiasm about Filipino food, he said, “I like the cultural aspect of food – especially of our own country, it reveals so much about us.”

Binondo – translated to mean ‘hilly’ – used to be a ghetto for the Chinese who had immigrated here in search of work and is said to be the oldest Chinatown in the world (no one knows for sure – but Binondo is as old as the city). It is now a vibrant district characterized by neon-lit Chinese signs and pagodas alongside traditional shop houses – and home to a large Filipino-Chinese population. Ivan, born and bred here in Binondo, believed this was the best place to start our Philippine culinary education.

“The Chinese, Spanish conquistadors and Americans all came to the Philippines and left their mark in the country’s cuisine,” explained Ivan. Today, Filipino food is a fusion of all these influences and more. Just like the other aspects of Manila (such as its culture and language), food is a good indicator of its past.

Learning About Manila Through Food

Our first stop was New Po Heng Lumpia House, a small eatery tucked within a narrow alley that we would have easily dismissed as someone’s home. A lady was stirring up a massive pile of cooked-to-softness Chinese cabbage. Ivan ordered a couple of vegetable lumpia for us to try –and we watched as the lady did her magic. A round, thin-as-wafer rice flour skin was laid out on the chopping board and then filled with a scoop of the cabbage along with a whole series of condiments including nuts, before being wrapped up into a roll. With a dollop of vinegar and raw garlic plus a dip of vinegar, I gulped it all down and boy did it taste explosive. I’m no stranger to lumpia, as it’s part of the Singaporean cuisine, but this – was clearly something special.

Next, we wound past small canals and creaky bridges to Carvajal Street, better known as Umbrella Alley. The narrow dark lane was lined with rainbow-colored umbrellas providing shade for the tiny street food carts – here was the best place to try turo-turo (literally translated to mean ‘point point’- as a way of eating from street food stands), a favorite culinary practice amongst the locals.

We sat in a tiny hole-in-the-wall eatery where plates after plates of merienda dishes (in-between-meal snacks) were served. “The Filipino practice is to eat five times a day. The ‘merienda’ is a colonial hangover (adopted from the Spanish),” revealed Ivan. Out of the collection of sweet snacks, my taste buds were particularly enticed by the palitaw, chunks of sticky rice sprinkled with dried coconut shavings and sesame seeds; and ginatian, coconut milk pudding with rice balls, sweet potato and jackfruit in the mix. Coconut – commonly found in numerous local dishes-  is the tree of life here in the Philippines.

Continuing on our walk in Umbrella Alley, we came across an eatery with a massive suckling pig on display. Unfortunately it wasn’t the much-talked-about lechon - roasted suckling pig barbecued to golden crispness; but the B-grade version: lechon kawali, suckling pig deep-fried in a wok. Cheaper, easier to prepare, but almost as good as the real thing. When dipped in thick liver sauce, the soft juicy layers of fats and the crunchy skin, were a perfect combination.

Tackling Bizarre Foods

Right by the stall, an old man was selling baskets of balut (half-fertilized duck embryo) – I’d long heard about this bizarre food, and now I was eager to put my guts to the test. As I cracked open the egg, I followed Ivan’s guidance of sipping the juice that flowed out from within and slurping up the yellow bag resembling a yolk – the smell didn’t entice me much but I was determined to go on. Once the yellow bag was gone, however, my gung-ho attitude completely vanished – a semi-formed baby duck lay crouched in a fetal position within the egg; its eyes, beaks and feet all visible. As Ivan sank his teeth into it, I heard crunching sounds of the duck embryo smattering into pieces. It was then that all my sense of adventure disappeared and I had to throw in the white towel.

I was both disappointed and relieved to move on to some comfort foods. Meandering our way into the chaotic Ongpin Road, we dodged tricycles and passed waterways to get to Sa Lido, an old fixture in Binondo’s culinary scene. This was one of the most famous pansiterias – old-style Chinese restaurants dating back to the 1800s, where the Filipino-Chinese intellects used to gather to plan the revolution. Sa Lido had an old-world charm to it, with white-haired men sitting in groups, discussing the latest gossips in a mixture of Tagalog (Filipino language) and Cantonese (Chinese dialect). Pansiterias came from the word pansit, stir-fried noodles, so clearly the specialty of this place was their yellow canton noodles. Aside from pancit, we dug our chopsticks into baskets of dim sum and a platter of asado (roast pork) and ended the day off with a colorful bowl of halo-halo, crushed ice dessert drenched in syrup and topped with ice cream.

As we bid farewell to Ivan, he gave me a firm handshake and a wide smile – as though it was a seal of approval for the completion of my culinary education in the Philippines. In just one day, I’d had a good glimpse into Filipino gastronomy and while I’d probably missed thousands of other local dishes, I’m sure this was just the start to future culinary adventures in the country.

This trip was made possible by Department of Tourism Philippines. Special thanks to good friend and local expert Ivan Henares for organizing this. All opinions expressed here are entirely my own. Read more about our trip through the Philippines here or follow our journey on Twitter using the #WJAsia hashtag.