Whisk: a food blog

Cheers to Life with a Jamaican Sorrel Cocktail

2014-04-18T12:05:00.011-04:00

It’s been a while since I've posted. I’ve missed sharing my thoughts and food experiences, and life is all about sharing moments: the highs, the lows, and everything in between.

Recently, I met someone whose integrity and authenticity deeply inspired me. It made me reflect on what being authentic truly means—being genuine, real, and sincere. These are qualities I value in others and strive to embody myself. Of course, I don’t always succeed, and I know I’m not alone. Navigating life with an authentic compass is a journey, and while the arrow doesn’t always point perfectly, I know I’m heading in the right direction.

Thanks to another authentic individual I met a few years ago,I’ve had the chance to travel to warm climates this past winter. One highlight was my trip to Jamaica in November for an assignment with Taste & Travel Magazine. During my visit, I discovered a new taste—sorrel, a key ingredient in Jamaican cuisine. Sorrel comes from a shrub with small pink flowers, part of the hibiscus family (not to be confused with the garden herb sorrel). Jamaicans use its petals to craft refreshing drinks and flavorful condiments. At Hotel Mockingbird Hill, I enjoyed a sorrel cocktail while gazing at lush green hills and the sparkling ocean. The vibrant flavors and tranquil setting created an unforgettable memory.

[The 2014 Summer issue of Taste & Travel Magazine includes my article about Jamaica.]

Sorrel Petals

For those curious about exploring sorrel’s unique taste, here’s a recipe to try at home.

Recipe: Jamaican Sorrel Cocktail

Ingredients:

1 lb sorrel, thoroughly washed

2-4 oz ginger root, grated

8-12 pimento (allspice) berries

8 cups water

Sugar syrup, to taste*

Sparkling wine or rum (optional)

Ice

Instructions:

1. Combine sorrel, ginger and pimento berries in a bowl.

2. Boil water and pour over the mixture. Allow to stand 4-6 hours, then strain.

3. Sweeten to taste with sugar syrup. Serve over ice with sparkling wine or rum for a delightful twist.

*To make sugar syrup, bring 2½ cups water and 1¼ cups sugar to a boil. Allow to cool.

Tip: You can find sorrel at specialty Caribbean markets.

This recipe is courtesy of Chef Barbara Walker from Hotel Mockingbird Hill in Port Antonio, Jamaica. www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com

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Ottawa and Taffy on the Snow: Nature's Sweetest Winter Treat

2012-02-06T00:01:00.007-05:00

Taffy on the Snow is nature's best candy. Though I usually associate it with a sugar shack tradition, I was excited to see it offered at Ottawa's Winterlude. As part of our skate on the Rideau Canal Skateway, which is the world's largest skating rink, we stopped to indulge in this sweet treat.

While talking to the taffy maker, I learned that in one week he has gone through 300 kg (over 600 pounds) of maple syrup! For the "snow", he grinds up bags of ice cubes. And each taffy pop costs $3.

The pure maple syrup is boiled to the soft ball stage (about 235˚F).

boiling the maple syrup

Then, it's poured onto the snow and allowed to cool slightly. Using a popsicle stick, the taffy is rolled around the stick into a ball.

pouring the maple syrup

placing the popsicle sticks

letting them cool

rolling the taffy

The crunchy snow crystals on the taffy make an unstable but delicious marriage of ice and warmth. And it just might be a better business idea than a lemonade stand!

Click here for more ideas about baking and cooking with maple syrup.

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Bringing Mexico Home: Pescado Zarandeado, A Flavorful Mexican Grilled Fish Tradition

2012-01-09T00:01:00.007-05:00

Pescado Zarandeado is a signature Mexican dish with regional variations depending on the chef. The preparation typically involves marinating a whole fish in a blend of lemon juice, garlic, soy sauce, and lime, then butterflying and grilling it over an open flame.

The fish of choice is often Pargo (Snapper) due to its rich fat content, which keeps it moist during grilling. Alternatives like Snook or Red Snapper also work beautifully for this dish.

The Origins of Pescado Zarandeado

This iconic dish is believed to have originated on Mexcaltitán Island in Nayarit, Mexico. Today, restaurants like Diego’s in Mazatlán have elevated this dish while staying true to its roots. Chef Diego Becerra’s version features a unique mayonnaise-based sauce infused with garlic, oregano, soy sauce, herbs, and cilantro, offering a flavorful twist.

Traditionally, Pescado Zarandeado was smoked using mangrove wood. However, to protect mangrove forests, chefs now use mesquite wood, which imparts a similar smoky aroma.

A Beachside Feast

When Chef Diego prepared Pescado Zarandeado on the beach outside his restaurant, the experience was unforgettable. The smoky aroma of the fish grilling over an open fire, the sound of waves, and children playing nearby created a memorable atmosphere.

Served on a large platter, the fish was accompanied by tortillas, refried beans, salsa, onions, rice, and lime wedges. Each tortilla was a celebration of Mexican flavors, filled with moist, tender, and perfectly seasoned fish.

Recipe: Pescado Zarandeado

from link

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

For the marinade:
1/3 cup olive oil
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup lime juice
6 cloves garlic, minced

For the fish:
1 3-pound fillet Snook, Dorado, Bonita, Red Snapper, Pargo or other white-fleshed fish suitable for grilling
6 tomatoes, deseeded and quartered
2 green bell peppers, cut into thick strips
2 red bell peppers, cut into thick strips
1 purple onion, cut into thick slices
6 jalepeños, sliced

Instructions:

Whisk the marinade ingredients. Let steep to blend flavors for about 15-30 minutes. pour over the fish and let the fish marinate for 30 minutes.

If you don't have a grill or fish cage (or if it's winter!), you can put the fish in foil with the vegetables.

Grill (or bake the fish in the oven at 375° until the meat flakes). The time it takes depends on how large the fish is. My small Red Snapper took 20-30 minutes in the oven.

Serve with salsa, guacamole, refried beans, rice, limes, and tortillas.

More to Explore:

Acknowledgment: Special thanks to www.gomazatlan.com for hosting meat the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos. All opinions and stories shared are entirely my own.

Bringing Mexico Home: Huevos Divorciados, A Taste of Mexico with a Twist

2011-11-28T00:01:00.005-05:00

For many, a palm tree symbolizes relaxation and serenity. For me, it’s a centering thought, one I turn to during moments of stress. Recently, I found myself not only admiring the palms in Mazatlán, Mexico, but also savoring the local flavors that capture the essence of this vibrant region.

Hotel Riu, Mazatlán, Mexico

Among the culinary delights I experienced was Huevos Divorciados, a unique spin on the classic Huevos Rancheros. This dish creatively separates two poached eggs, placing them on opposite sides of the plate and dressing each in its own distinct sauce. One egg is topped with a zesty green salsa made with tomatillos, while the other is adorned with a smoky red chili salsa. The presentation is completed with a variety of sides—refried beans, rice, guacamole, cheese, and onions—that divide the two eggs like an edible border.

Though the sandy beaches of Mazatlán may be far away, the flavors of Huevos Divorciados can easily be recreated at home to share with family and friends.

Recipe: Huevos Divorciados

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

For the salsa:
3 medium tomatoes, quartered
½ onion
½ hot green chile or 1 teaspoon canned green chilies
3 sprigs cilantro leaves
½ red bell pepper
2 cloves garlic
1/8 teaspoon salt
½ lemon, squeezed

For the guacamole:
½ large ripe avocado
2 tablespoons green onion, minced
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
½ teaspoons Asian chile sauce
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt

Instructions:

For the tortillas:
6 tortillas, cut into rounds that will fit a muffin tin

For the poached eggs:
12 eggs, poached

Prepare the salsa:
Put all ingredients in a food processor and whiz until chunky. Drain.

Prepare the guacamole:
Put all ingredients in a food processor and whiz until smooth.

Prepare the tortillas:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the tortillas into rounds that will fit a muffin tin. Carefully push a round into a muffin cup. Bake until golden, about 5 minutes.

Prepare the poached eggs:
Poach 12 eggs.

To assemble:
Put the poached egg into the baked tortilla cup. Top with salsa on half of the cups. Top with guacamole on the other half. Garnish each plate with refried beans and cilantro along with a tortilla cup of each type. Serve immediately.

Tips
Ottawa Recommendation: For those in Ottawa, Canada, check out the Huevos Rancheros at Edgar—widely regarded as the best in the city. (Sadly now closed.)

Mazatlán Recommendation: If you find yourself in Mazatlán, enjoy this dish at iconic spots like the Shrimp Bucket in Olas Altas.

More to Explore:

Acknowledgment: Special thanks to www.gomazatlan.com for hosting meat the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos. All opinions and stories shared are entirely my own.

Bringing Mexico Home: Horchata, A Taste of Mexico’s Soul

2011-11-14T08:06:00.016-05:00

Horchata

Travel and food are the perfect pair. Exploring new places, savoring unfamiliar flavors, and capturing memories in a sunset’s glow or the texture of sand beneath my toes restores my spirit. On a culinary tour of Mazatlán, Mexico, I discovered one of my favorite drinks: Horchata, a creamy, cinnamon-infused beverage that feels like a hug in a glass.

Mazatlán, often called the "Pearl of the Pacific," gave me the pearl-colored refreshment that I couldn’t wait to recreate back home. After a warm morning exploring the village of El Quelite, the Horchata served at El Mesón de los Laureanos quenched my thirst and captured the region’s essence.

sunrise in Mazatlán, Mexico

sunset in Mazatlán, Mexico

One year ago, I was recovering from surgery to remove more thyroid cancer. A year later, I’m feeling the sand between my toes, listening to the waves crash on the beach, and enjoying a culinary tour of Mazatlán, Mexico.

One thing I love to bring home is a favorite taste to make in my own kitchen. Mazatlán is known as the Pearl of the Pacific. For me, the pearl-colored beverage, Horchata (or-CHA-tah), will always remind me of Mazatlán and Mexico. It was also one of the first things I looked up when I got home.

Horchata is often described as “liquid rice pudding,” made by soaking rice (sometimes with nuts) and cinnamon in water or milk, sweetening it, and enhancing it with vanilla and other spices. While modern Horchata uses rice, the drink has its origins in Spain, where the Moors made it from tiger nuts (chufas). When the Spanish brought Horchata to the New World, they adapted it to local ingredients like rice, almonds, and squash seeds.

Legend says that King James I of Aragon, after tasting Horchata in Valencia, exclaimed:

"Açò és or, xata!" ("This is gold, darling!").

I tasted the best Horchata at a small village restaurant called El Mesón de los Laureanos in El Quelite just 45 minutes outside of Mazatlán. It wasn’t too sweet and quenched my thirst after a hot morning of sun and tequila tasting:

Variations include almonds, lime zest, or even pecans and popcorn. Momofuku Milk Bar serves a Horchata Soft Serve Ice Cream with Cinnamon. And adding a dash of Tequila can improve its already soothing qualities. Salud!

Recipe: Horchata

Ingredients:

For Horchata Base:
6 tablespoons long-grained rice
2 cinnamon sticks
2½ cups warm water

For sugar syrup:
½ cup sugar
1 cup water
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

To finish:
Milk, to taste
Ice
Ground cinnamon and nutmeg, for garnish

Instructions:

In a blender, blend the rice to break it up into small pieces. In a large bowl, combine the rice, cinnamon sticks and water. Cover and store in the refrigerator for 6 hours, or overnight.

To make the sugar syrup, melt sugar and water in a medium-heavy pot over medium-high heat until the sugar is melted. Add the vanilla. Let cool.

Remove the cinnamon sticks from the rice mixture. Strain the rice mixture through cheesecloth and squeeze out the rice to get the entire flavor out of the rice. Add the sugar syrup, to taste.

To finish, in a blender add 1 cup of the strained rice/sugar-syrup mixture and ½ cup milk (or to taste). Blend until frothy. Pour into a glass and garnish with ground cinnamon and nutmeg.

For Horchata Coffee, prepare a double espresso. Froth ½ cup milk with ½ cup Horchata. Mix and garnish with ground cinnamon and nutmeg.

Links
The Bojon Gourmet: Horchata Ice Cream
TastyType: Horchata Ice Cream
Vampire Weekend – Horchata: “In December, drinking horchata | I'd look psychotic in a balaclava”

More to Explore:

Acknowledgment: Special thanks to www.gomazatlan.com for hosting meat the 2011 Gran Fiesta Amigos. All opinions and stories shared are entirely my own.

Easy Cilantro Salad Recipe with Simple Vinaigrette

2011-10-24T00:01:00.004-04:00

Not all salads need to be complicated, and this Cilantro Salad proves just that. It’s a quick and easy dish with fresh ingredients, topped with a zesty vinaigrette. If you’re a fan of cilantro (or looking to give it another try), this salad is a perfect way to let its bold flavor shine.

Also known as Chinese Parsley, cilantro is the leafy green of the coriander plant. Its unique flavor can be polarizing—some love its freshness, while others describe it as soapy. But give it a chance, and you might find yourself craving its herbaceous zing.

Did you know? In ancient Chinese culture, cilantro was used in love potions and believed to bring immortality.

Why You’ll Love This Salad

Perfect for busy days or as a light side dish.
Packed with fresh greens, tomatoes, and the distinctive flavor of cilantro.
Add avocado, grilled chicken, or your favorite nuts for a heartier option.

Tips for Success

Use fresh cilantro for the best flavor. Avoid bunches with yellowing or wilting leaves.
Balance the vinaigrette by adjusting lime juice and garlic to your preference.
For extra crunch, sprinkle toasted seeds or nuts, such as pumpkin seeds, on top.

Recipe: Cilantro Salad

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

For the vinaigrette:
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 clove garlic, minced
salt and pepper, to taste

For the salad:
4 cups butter lettuce, cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

Instructions:

Whisk the ingredients for the vinaigrette. Mix the salad ingredients. Just before serving, mix the vinaigrette with the salad.

More to Explore:

Easy Caramel Apple Tarts with Puff Pastry – Perfect Fall Dessert

2011-10-17T00:01:00.006-04:00

Looking for a delicious dessert idea? These Caramel Apple Tarts are the perfect treat for fall. Made with puff pastry, diced apples, and rich homemade caramel, this recipe transforms a classic fairground favorite into a delightful baked dessert. Whether you make a full pie or individual tarts, the result is always irresistible.

If you don't have puff pastry in your refrigerator, just use a regular pie crust. If you don't have that, just make caramel apples!

Why You’ll Love This Recipe

A great way to use up fresh apples during apple-picking season.
Use puff pastry for a light, flaky crust or substitute with pie crust.
Serve as a show-stopping dessert with vanilla ice cream at your next gathering.

Recipe: Caramel Apple Tarts

Makes 1 pie or 12 individual tarts

Ingredients:

1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup butter, cut into pieces
3/4 cup sweetened condensed milk (or 300-mL can)
2/3 cup golden corn syrup
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt

6 apples, peeled and diced

Puff Pastry

Instructions:

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stir all ingredients until a temperature probe reaches 236°F. Make sure you stir constantly and ensure the mixture doesn't stick to the bottom and start to burn. Let cool.

Meanwhile, peel and dice the apples. Stir the apples into the cooled caramel mixture.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Roll out the puff pastry.

Fill the tart shell (or individual tart shells). Bake for 50-60 minutes (30-40 minutes for individual tart shells). Let cool. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

More to Explore:

The Magic of Puff Pastry: Flaky, Buttery Perfection

2011-10-10T21:57:00.008-04:00

Puff pastry is a magical dough that transforms simple ingredients into flaky, buttery masterpieces. Through a process called lamination, layers of butter are trapped between dough, creating steam during baking that pushes the layers apart. The result? A light and airy pastry that’s as impressive as it is delicious.

Tips for Perfect Puff Pastry:

Keep It Cool: Butter is the key to puff pastry's signature layers. Keeping both the dough and butter cold is essential to prevent the butter from melting or seeping out.
Roll with Care: Use a light touch when rolling to maintain the distinct layers. If the butter starts to soften or squish out, pop the dough back in the fridge.
Be Patient: While the process of rolling and folding can be time-consuming, the reward of perfectly flaky pastry makes it worth the effort.

Recipe: Puff Pastry

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup cake flour
1 teaspoon salt
2/3 to 3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons unsalted, butter, melted
14 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 egg, lightly beaten, for glazing

[You can find the recipe for Puff Pastry in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here.]

Instructions:

In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour and salt. Pour in the water and melted butter. The dough will be shaggy. Bring it together into a ball and score an "x" in the top. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

While the dough is chilling, place the butter between plastic wrap and form it into a square that's 3/4 inch thick.

To roll the dough, make arms or flaps to form a plus sign. The middle should be mounded slightly. The arms must be long and square enough to cover the middle. (See this post.)

Place the formed butter in the middle and fold the arms over the butter, stretching the dough if needed. Seal in the butter. Using a rolling pin, press on the dough to seal the edges and flatten the square.

Roll the dough about 7 inches wide and 21 inches long. Fold the top down and the bottom up to make an envelope. Turn a quarter turn. Roll again to 7 inches wide and 21 inches long. Fold again. Mark the dough with two fingerprints and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

Repeat the rolling/folding/turning and then chill. Repeat once more. Now the dough has been turned six times and is ready to be formed into pie crust, cheese sticks, turnovers, napoleons or whatever you fancy. (The dough keeps well in the freezer, too.)

Next Time
Danoises (Danish) in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 485

Links
White on Rice: Strawberry Danish Recipe
Not without Salt: Quick Puff Pastry
Dorie Greenspan: Puff Pastry Pinwheels

More to Explore:

The Art of Brioche: A Buttery Indulgence Worth the Wait

2011-10-03T00:01:00.006-04:00

If you're patient, in a few hours you can make brioche. You just need a teaspoon of yeast, a half dozen eggs, and almost half a pound of butter along with the usual breadlike suspects.

Brioche is classified as a viennoiserie (Viennese Specialties), which are baked goods made from a yeast-leavened dough that is enriched with milk, sugar, eggs, or butter. In this case, lots of eggs and butter. Brioche isn't a low-fat treat but an indulgence.

The trickiest part of this recipe is the dough's stickiness. But leave the pasty dough to the hook, forget the traditional, hand-kneading method, and go check your email. Then, while it's rising, do some gardening. And after you've formed the rolls, go downtown to buy a new gadget. Then eat some cake.

Tips for Perfect Brioche

1. Embrace the Stickiness: The dough will be sticky; let your mixer’s dough hook do the work.

2. Be Patient: Brioche takes time, but the slow rise develops flavor and texture.

3. Use Butter Generously: Don’t skimp—this is where brioche gets its magic.

Recipe: Brioche

Makes: 16 individual rolls

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons milk, warmed
1/4 oz package dried yeast
3 cups bread or all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
6 eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 egg beaten and mixed with 2 tablespoons of water, for glaze

[You can find the recipe for Brioche in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).]

Instructions:

In a small bowl, proof the yeast in some warm milk. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, whisk all the ingredients. Add the yeast mixture. Knead until the dough forms a smooth ball. In an oiled bowl, place the dough and cover. Let rise at room temperature for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until doubled in size.

Punch down. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the room-temperature butter to the dough and knead until the dough is smooth again. Cover and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Form into rolls. Let rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool.

Here's a video showing how to make it by hand.

Tasting Notes
The crust on my brioche was nice and crunchy, but I should have pulled mine out of the oven sooner than I did. Overall, they have a nice texture and warming them in the microwave for about 10 seconds makes them even tastier.

Next Time
Puff Pastry in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 542

Links
La Tartine Gourmande: Simplest Brioche
Julia Child: Brioche Dough (video)
Dorie Greenspan: Brioche

More to Explore:

Croissants: A Beginner's Journey to Parisian Perfection

2011-09-26T00:01:00.007-04:00

Making croissants at home can seem daunting, but if you’ve mastered puff pastry, you’re halfway there! Croissants are essentially "baby" puff pastries—requiring fewer turns and an overnight rest. While they demand patience and practice, the reward is a flaky, buttery masterpiece that rivals the best Parisian bakeries.

My standards for croissants are high: I expect a rich, golden, crinkly surface; I expect it to explode (quietly) when bitten into; and I expect every crumb to be loaded with butter.

Croissant-Making Simplified

1. Fewer Turns: Unlike puff pastry, croissants require fewer laminating folds, making the process more approachable.

2. Overnight Rest: Resting the dough in the refrigerator develops flavor and makes it easier to work with.

3. Practice Makes Perfect: Achieving that perfect flakiness takes time, but every attempt is deliciously rewarding.

Recipe: Croissants

Makes: 12-16

Ingredients:

1 pound all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups milk
1/2 ounce fresh yeast or 1/4 ounce dried yeast
1 1/3 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

[You can find the recipe for Croissants in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).] You can watch this video to see the method: How to Make Croissants.

Tasting Notes
With all that butter and fresh dough, what's not to love about these croissants. I will keep practicing and aim for crumb-explosion perfection.

Croissant in Paris

Next Time
Brioche in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 430

Links
Food Timeline's Croissant History
Food & Wine: Lamination: The Art of the Perfect Croissant

Croissant in Paris

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Chocolate Meringue Kisses with Mousse: A Simplified Concorde

2011-09-05T22:44:00.010-04:00

For those who dream of mastering the intricate Concorde Cake but crave a simpler alternative, chocolate meringue kisses filled with mousse are the perfect solution. Inspired by Gaston Lenôtre's legendary dessert, these mini treats retain the decadence of the original without the complexity.

The real deal consists of layers of chocolate meringue and chocolate pudding with sticks of chocolate meringue to decorate the outside. It was created by the famous French pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre to celebrate the first flight of the Concorde. Or is it named after the Place de la Concorde in Paris?

The recipe for Lenôtre’s Concorde appears in Lenôtre's Desserts and Pastries (affiliate link). At age 14, Pierre Hermé started apprenticing with Lenôtre and a recipe for Concorde can also be found in Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé.

Someday, I’ll make this supersonic Concorde cake, but these little chocolate kisses were simple yet decadent.

Recipe: Chocolate Meringue Kisses with Mousse

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Chocolate Meringue: 1 cup confectioner’s sugar 6 tablespoons cocoa powder 5 egg whites ¾ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Chocolate Mousse: 3½ ounces semi-sweet chocolate, cut into small pieces 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 5 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 egg yolks 4 egg whites
Confectioner’s sugar, for dusting

[You can find the recipe for Concorde (Chocolate Meringue Cake Filled with Chocolate Mousse) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here.]

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Meringue:

Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add sugar, beating until stiff, glossy peaks form.
Fold in the sifted cocoa powder gently to maintain the airy texture.
Pipe or spoon small mounds onto the baking sheet.
Bake for 1 hour, then turn off the oven and let the meringues cool completely inside.

2. Make the Chocolate Mousse:

Melt the dark chocolate and let it cool slightly.
Gently fold the whipped cream and vanilla extract into the chocolate until smooth.

3. Assemble the Kisses:

Pipe or spoon chocolate mousse onto the flat side of a meringue.
Top with another meringue to create a sandwich.

4. Chill and Serve:

Refrigerate the assembled kisses for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Tasting Notes
“I like the chewiness.”
“This is good; this is real good.”
“Can I have another?”
These were quotes from my three young taste testers.

Next Time
Croissants in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection page 429

Links
Video: Chocolate Concorde cake recipe
Food & Wine: Concorde Cake
No Special Effects’ Concorde
Carnival’s Concorde Cake

More to Explore:

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes Recipe with Blueberry Syrup: A Tangy Breakfast Treat

2011-08-27T00:03:00.007-04:00

Recipes are all about sharing. Sharing the method and technique, and ultimately sharing the food across the table with family and friends. I love getting recipe recommendations, and a friend shared this one with me.

Pancakes are a breakfast staple loved by all, but these Lemon Ricotta Pancakes take it to the next level with their tangy flavor and fluffy texture. Combining the zest and juice of fresh lemons, creamy ricotta cheese, and a medley of fresh berries, this recipe creates a delightful treat perfect for breakfast or brunch.

Cooking pancakes requires patience—heat management is key. Too hot, and you risk a burnt outside with an uncooked middle. Too low, and you’ll be waiting ages for those telltale bubbles to form. But with this recipe, you’ll master the art of pancakes in no time.

These fluffy lemon pancakes are elevated by a homemade blueberry syrup that’s sweet, tangy, and easy to prepare. The combination of flavors from lemons, raspberries, blueberries, and ricotta cheese will have you reaching for seconds. Make the batter the night before to save time, and you’ll never go back to pancake mixes again.

Recipe: Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

Makes: 4 to 6 pancakes (2 servings)

Ingredients:

3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup ricotta cheese
2 eggs
2/3 cup milk
1 lemon, zested and juiced
Butter, for griddle
1 (11-ounce) jar prepared lemon curd [I didn't use this]
Fresh raspberries, for garnish
Confectioners' sugar, for garnish

Click here for the recipe.

Recipe: Blueberry Syrup

Ingredients:

3 cups blueberries
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch

Instructions:

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally. Simmer for about 2 minutes and set aside.

Make-Ahead Friendly: Prepare the batter ahead of time for a stress-free morning.

More to Explore:

Bottles & Bites on Natalie MacLean's Blog (August column)

2011-08-15T18:09:00.001-04:00

My latest column on Natalie MacLean's blog is a pairing of Zinfandel and spicy BBQ sauce.
Check it out!

Gâteau Basque Recipe: A Classic Almond Pastry Cream Delight

2011-08-08T00:01:00.007-04:00

Is it a cake or a pie? The Gâteau Basque blurs the lines between both, offering a crispy crust and a luscious almond-flavored pastry cream filling. If you love the rich, velvety texture of crème pâtissière, this traditional dessert from the Basque region of Spain is a must-try.

The Basque Country, situated between Spain and France, is known for its unique culinary traditions, and Gâteau Basque is one of its signature desserts. With its buttery crust and creamy almond filling, it’s a perfect balance of texture and flavor.

Recipe: Gâteaux Basque (Almond-Filled Basque Cake)

Serves: 8

Ingredients:

Gâteaux Basque 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 3/4 cup cake flour 1 cup sugar Pinch salt 1 lemon, zested 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and softened 1 whole egg 2 egg yolks
Almond Pastry Cream 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 ounce fine-ground almonds (about 1/4 cup)
1 egg, lightly beaten, for glazing Unsalted butter for pastry cream and tart pan

Instructions:

1 Prepare the Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière):

Heat the milk and vanilla in a saucepan until it reaches a boil.
In a stand mixer, whisk together egg yolks and sugar until smooth.
Gradually fold in flour and ground almonds.
Slowly drizzle the boiled milk into the yolk mixture while whisking continuously.
Return the mixture to the heat and bring it to a gentle boil, simmering for 5 minutes while stirring constantly.

2. Cool the Pastry Cream:

Pour the cream into a shallow pan, cover with plastic wrap, and optionally dot with butter to prevent a skin from forming.

3. Assemble the Gâteau Basque:

Use a food processor to prepare the dough for the crispy crust.
Layer the pastry cream filling inside the crust.

4. Bake:

Bake at 350°F for 50 to 60 minutes until the crust is golden and crisp.

You can find the recipe for Gâteaux Basque (Almond-Filled Basque Cake) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
I loved the crust, but I would fill it with more than just almond pastry cream next time.

More Almond-Inspired Desserts
Ask Chef Dennis: Home » Recipes » Cake Recipes Gateau Basque {Basque Cake Recipe}
Epicurious: Gâteau Basque

Next Time
Meringue in Concorde (Chocolate Meringue Cake Filled with Chocolate Mousse) page 464

More to Explore:

Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis)

2011-07-25T00:01:00.014-04:00

Unlike last week's simple and delicious Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise, today's recipe is a bit more involved, with five components—meaning a pile of dishes to clean afterward!

Let’s start with the ladyfingers. They’re quite straightforward this time, especially since I followed the instructions carefully and sprinkled the confectioner's sugar on top of the piped fingers, instead of mixing it into the batter like I did last time. To make them, whip the egg whites, fold in the yolks, and then incorporate the flour. Pipe the batter, sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake at 350°F until golden.

Now, onto the pears. Why do the French have such a love for pears? I’ve never been a huge fan, finding them a bit mealy. However, poaching really brings out their sweetness and improves the texture. To prepare them, halve the pears and poach them in water, sugar, and vanilla until soft. Once they’ve cooled, purée half of the pears and dice the other half.

The star of this dessert, for me, is the Crème Anglaise. Some people can eat raw cookie dough (which I personally can't), but I could easily devour a whole saucepan of Crème Anglaise. That said, adding the softened gelatin and water mixture to the custard doesn’t do it any favors in my opinion—jelly and custard just don’t mix well.

Afterward, whip the cream (I usually add a bit of liqueur, but I opted to leave it out this time) and gently fold it into the Bavarian cream, which is a mixture of Crème Anglaise and gelatin.

To finish, purée the raspberries, strain out the seeds if desired, and whisk in the confectioner’s sugar and lemon juice.

Now, the hardest part: patience. After all that work, you’ll need to wait 4-5 hours for the Bavarian cream to set!

Bavarois is a classic French dessert that combines gelatin to thicken the mixture and whipped cream to lighten it, creating a rich yet airy treat perfect for any special occasion.

Recipe: Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Ladyfingers

3 eggs, separated

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 cup cake flour

Confectioner's sugar, sifted

Unsalted butter, softened for the baking sheet

Pear Bavarian Cream

1 pound pears

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 ounce powdered gelatin (about 1 tablespoon)

2 tablespoons cold water

Crème Anglaise

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

Whipped Cream

1/4 cup Poire William or domestic pear brandy (I ended up leaving this out)

1/2 cup heavy cream

Raspberry Coulis

1 1/2 cups raspberries

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar

Juice of 1/2 lemon, strained

Instructions:

1. Make the Ladyfingers:

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Whip the egg whites in a stand mixer or by hand until soft peaks form. Gradually add the confectioner's sugar, whipping until stiff peaks form.
In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and sift the flour.
Gently fold the yolk mixture into the egg whites until fully combined. Be careful not to deflate the batter.
Pipe the batter into long, finger-shaped lines on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the tops with a light dusting of icing sugar.
Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

2. Poach the Pears:

Peel, core, and halve the pears.
In a medium saucepan, add water, sugar, and vanilla (split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the water, or use vanilla extract). Bring to a simmer.
Add the pear halves to the simmering liquid. Cook for about 15-20 minutes, until pears are tender but not mushy.
Remove the pears from the liquid and let them cool. Once cool, purée half the pears and dice the other half for garnish. Set aside.

3. Prepare the Crème Anglaise:

In a saucepan, heat the milk and vanilla over medium heat until it comes to a simmer (do not let it boil).
In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together until smooth.
Gradually whisk the hot milk into the egg mixture, tempering the yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens to coat the back of a spoon (about 5 minutes).
Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl to remove any lumps. Allow to cool completely.

4. Make the Bavarois:

Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water and let it sit for 5 minutes to bloom.
Warm the gelatin mixture in the microwave for about 10 seconds until it dissolves completely. Add it to the cooled Crème Anglaise.
In a separate bowl, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the Crème Anglaise mixture, making sure everything is evenly combined.
Pour the Bavarois mixture into serving dishes or a mold and refrigerate for 4-5 hours, or until set.

5. Prepare the Raspberry Sauce:

In a blender or food processor, purée the raspberries until smooth.
Strain the purée through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds.
Add sugar and lemon juice to the raspberry purée. Adjust sweetness to taste.
Refrigerate the raspberry sauce until ready to serve.

6. Assemble the Dessert:

Once the Bavarois has set, spoon a layer of the diced poached pears over the top of the Bavarois.
Drizzle the raspberry sauce over the pears and Bavarois.
Garnish with the ladyfingers, either whole or cut into pieces.
Serve chilled and enjoy!

You can find the recipe for Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
If you like pears, you'll like this recipe. If you like jello, you'll like this recipe. I liked the ladyfingers and the Crème Anglaise so all was not wasted. And you can't go wrong with raspberry coulis, but it's a very strong taste that likes to overpower the subtle taste of pear.

More Charlottes
• Whisk: Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)
• Whisk: Charlotte Malakoff (Almond Cream Charlotte)
• Whisk: Charlotte aux pommes, crème anglaise au Calvados (Apple Charlotte served with Calvados custard sauce)
• La Cerise: Charlotte and Biscuits à la Cuillère (Ladyfingers)
• Happy Home Baking: Tiramisu Charlotte Cake

More Bavarois
• Whisk: Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)
• Whisk: Bavarois à la Fraise (Strawberry Bavarian Cream with Strawberry Coulis)

Next Time
Crème d’amande (Almond cream) in Almond-Filled Basque Cake page 253

More to Explore:

Chai Oatmeal – A Delicious Twist on a Classic Breakfast

2011-07-23T00:01:00.007-04:00

If you’re a fan of Starbucks’ Grande Tazo Chai, you’ll love this Chai Oatmeal recipe. The warm and cozy spices of chai blend perfectly with hearty oats, making for a comforting and flavorful brunch. Whether you enjoy it as a filling breakfast or a special treat, this chai-inspired oatmeal is sure to become your new favorite.

Recipe: Chai Oatmeal

Serves: 2

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

pinch nutmeg

1 vanilla bean

1/4 cup honey

3/4 cup oats

yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, raisins, coconut or fresh fruit

Instructions:

Pour milk into a saucepan. Whisk in salt and spices. Add vanilla bean and honey. Stir to blend. Bring this mixture to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for about 5 minutes to blend the flavors.

Add the oats and stir. Cover the pan and leave over low heat for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally so that the mixture doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan.

When the oatmeal has thickened to your taste, remove the vanilla bean and serve with yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, raisins, coconut, or fresh fruit and milk.

More to Explore:

Stuffed Chicken Breast – Quick, Easy, and Delicious Meal

2011-07-22T00:01:00.004-04:00

If you’re always on the lookout for recipes that are quick, easy to prepare, and delicious, this stuffed chicken recipe is perfect for you. Not only does it come together in no time, but you can also make it ahead of time, making it ideal for busy weeknights. Plus, this recipe is highly versatile – feel free to swap out different cheeses and vegetables to customize the stuffing to your liking.

Recipe: Stuffed Chicken Breast

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

1 cup broccoli, chopped and cooked

1/4 cup onion, sliced

1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated

1/4 cup ricotta cheese

2 tablespoons red pepper, chopped

1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground

2 whole chicken breasts, boneless (with skin if you prefer), each breast cut in half to make 4 pieces

2 tablespoons oil

Salt

Instructions:

Preheat Oven and Prepare Stuffing: Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). In a large bowl, combine the cooked broccoli, sliced onion, grated cheddar, ricotta cheese, chopped red pepper, and freshly ground pepper. Mix well.
Stuff the Chicken: Carefully slice a pocket into each chicken breast. Fill each pocket with the stuffing mixture, ensuring it is evenly distributed. Use toothpicks or kitchen string to secure the pockets closed.
Sear the Chicken: Heat a large pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. While the pan heats up, season the chicken breasts with salt. Once the oil is hot, add the chicken to the pan. Sear the chicken for about 2 minutes on one side until browned, then flip and sear the other side.
Bake the Chicken: Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake for approximately 15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the juices run clear.
Serve and Enjoy: Once cooked, remove the chicken from the oven, discard the toothpicks or string, and serve hot. This stuffed chicken is perfect with a side of vegetables, potatoes, or a fresh salad.

More to Explore:

Taste & Travel (Issue 2, Summer 2011)

2011-07-20T00:01:00.012-04:00

The Summer issue of Taste & Travel is on store shelves now.

Travel to several countries and savour the unusual and delicious recipes between the pages of this gorgeous magazine. This issue covers the Yucatán, Paris, Rome, Adelaide, Merida, Malaysia, and New York. You'll see a preview of David Sterling's forthcoming book on the cuisine of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, a feature about the glorious food in Ottawa's backyard, details about the legendary Knysna oyster from South Africa and get a visual taste of the Chelsea Market in New York City. You'll find recipes for eel, elk, goat, curried spaghetti and bread pudding to name just a few.

The head office of Taste & Travel is in the village of Metcalfe, Ontario, but relies on an editorial team that is international. The creative director is in New Zealand, the senior editorial consultant lives most of the year in Southeast Asia, a contributing editor works out of Japan and a team of other staff members reside in exotic locales. I had fun doing some recipe testing and photography for this issue and am excited to work with the magazine.

You can find Taste & Travel at Chapters stores across Canada. If you're in the Ottawa area, you can also find it at the following stores:

• Pepper Mill in Manotick
• Just Imagine in Manotick
• The Manotick Village Butcher
• Chilly Chiles in Navan
• Domus in Byward Market

Since it sells out quickly, you may want to subscribe so that you won't miss an issue.

Bottles & Bites on Natalie MacLean's Blog

2011-07-19T00:01:00.003-04:00

I have been following Natalie MacLean's wine writing career for many years and was one of the first subscribers to her wine newsletter. Since then, she's gone on to write a book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, that recently won Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. She's also been named the World's Best Drink Writer. She's won four James Beard Foundation Journalism Awards and is the only person to have won both the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation and the M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing from Les Dames d'Escoffier International.

Subscribe to her newsletter, follow her on Twitter, and read her blog.

I have a monthly column on Natalie's blog called "Bottles & Bites". My latest column is a pairing of bubbles and sweetness: Prosecco with Lemon Sponge Cake, Lemon Curd and Raspberry Ice Cream. Check it out!

Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)

2011-07-18T00:01:00.006-04:00

This is one of my favorite desserts. It's just poached meringue in custard and caramel. It's simple, bistro food. And each component can be made ahead. Plus it's economical and contains ingredients you would normally have on hand. The egg whites are used to make the meringue and the yolks are used for the custard. There are only three parts to this dessert:

Meringue
Crème Anglaise
Caramel

What’s the Difference Between Snow Eggs and Floating Islands?

There is some debate about the difference between "Snow Eggs" (Oeufs à la Neige) and "Floating Islands" (Île Flottante). I haven't been able to get a definitive answer. Here are the possibilities:

Snow eggs are typically poached in milk while floating islands are baked in a bain-marie.
Snow eggs don’t traditionally include caramel, whereas floating islands often do.
Floating islands may include hazelnuts in the meringue and are sometimes baked in molds.
The names themselves refer to their presentation: snow eggs are shaped like eggs, while floating islands "float" on a pool of Crème Anglaise.

If you know the answer to this naming mystery, let me know.

Recipe: Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Crème Anglaise

2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

French Meringue

4 egg whites

4 tablespoons sugar

Caramel

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

Instructions:

Prepare the Crème Anglaise: Heat milk and vanilla in a saucepan until just boiling. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar until pale. Slowly pour the hot milk into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Return to the pan and heat gently, stirring until thickened. Avoid letting it boil. Cool and set aside.
Make the Meringue: Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gradually add sugar and whisk until glossy and firm.
Poach the Meringue: Simmer water in a wide pan. Drop large spoonfuls of meringue into the water and poach for about 3 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on a clean kitchen towel.
Prepare the Caramel: Heat sugar and water in a saucepan until it turns a golden amber colour. Add 1/4 cup of water to stop the cooking process. Keep warm.
Assemble the Dessert: Pour Crème Anglaise into serving bowls, gently place poached meringue on top, and drizzle with caramel. Serve immediately or chill until ready to enjoy.

You can find the recipe for Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
It's my favorite dessert. Sweet. Comforting. Light.

Links
• Video (in French): how to poach meringue

More Oeufs à la Neige
• Whisk: Floating Islands
• La Tartine Gourmande: Pisatachio Floating Island for Benoit
• La Tartine Gourmande: Vanilla, Cardamom Snow Eggs
• Joe Pastry: Floating Islands Recipe

Next Time
Crème bavarois (Bavarian cream) in Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Carlotte with Raspberry Coulis) page 308

More to Explore:

Spiced French Toast with Caramelized Bananas and Toasted Almonds

2011-07-16T00:01:00.006-04:00

Weekends are a time to slow down and enjoy the little things—catching up on sleep, spending time with loved ones, and savoring a leisurely brunch. If you’re a fan of indulgent breakfast dishes, this Caramelized Banana French Toast will steal your heart.

This isn’t just any French toast. It’s elevated with the natural sweetness of caramelized bananas, the crunch of toasted almonds, and a decadent streusel topping. The secret? Thick slices of cinnamon raisin bread soaked overnight, making your morning preparation a breeze.

Whether you're hosting a weekend brunch or treating yourself, this recipe delivers comfort and flavor in every bite.

Recipe: Spiced French Toast with Caramelized Bananas and Toasted Almonds

Serves: 4, 4 mini loaf pans

Ingredients:

¾ loaf of cinnamon raisin bread, thickly sliced
3 eggs ¾ cups milk 1/8 cup sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon butter ½ cup brown sugar 2 bananas, sliced
½ cup almonds, slivered and toasted 1/8 cup brown sugar 1/8 cup oats 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter, melted
Maple syrup

Instructions:

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the milk, sugar, vanilla, and spices. Cut the bread to fit the pan you're using. Pour the egg mixture over the bread and allow to soak overnight covered in the refrigerator.

In the morning, finish preparing the French Toast. In a non-stick skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and melt. Add the bananas and cook until caramelized, about 4-6 minutes, stirring gently. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

In a small bowl, combine toasted almonds, brown sugar, oats, flour, and melted butter.

Place banana mixture on top of the bread. Sprinkle with almond mixture. Bake until the topping is golden and the filling is hot, about 25 minutes. Serve with warmed maple syrup.

Make-Ahead Convenience: Prep it the night before for an effortless morning.

More to Explore:

Passion Fruit Lemonade

2011-07-14T00:01:00.015-04:00

Do you have a favorite fruit—one that transports you back in time with just a taste or scent? For me, that fruit is passion fruit. Its aroma carries me to distant, joyful moments, evoking a sense of nostalgia like no other.

I adore the crunch of its seeds, the perfect harmony of tangy, sour, and sweet. A single teaspoon of passion fruit pulp can transform an ordinary beverage into something extraordinary, turning a mundane sip into a cherished memory.

One of my most treasured possessions is a cookbook passed down from my mom, titled The New Guinea Cookbook. Its timeworn pages, typed in Courier font, hold a treasure trove of recipes—everything from Baked Breadfruit to this simple yet evocative recipe for Passion Fruit Drink.

PASSION FRUIT DRINK Add lemon juice, sugar and ice water to sieved passion fruit for a refreshing drink.

Below is my version of this simple recipe.

Recipe: Passion Fruit Lemonade

Makes: 10 8-ounce servings

Ingredients:

2½ cups water
1¼ cups sugar
½ teaspoon lemon peel, finely shredded
1¼ cups lemon juice (about 4 lemons, depending on their size)

6 passion fruit, pulp scooped out
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Water
Ice

Instructions:

In a medium saucepan, heat water and sugar until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool.

Add lemon peel, lemon juice and passion fruit pulp to sugar syrup. Cover and refrigerate. (Base can be stored in the refrigerator up to 3 days.)

For each serving, pour ½ cup base into a glass. Stir in ½ cup water. Fill the glass with ice and garnish with a lemon slice.

If desired, you can strain the passion fruit pulp to remove the seeds.

More to Explore:

Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau)

2011-07-11T00:01:00.012-04:00

Are crêpes making a comeback? Judging by my recent encounter with Lemon Sugar Crêpes at a Seattle food cart called Anita’s Crêpes, I’d say yes. The experience was unforgettable—fresh lemon juice squeezed over a perfectly cooked crêpe, sprinkled with sugar, and then brûléed with a torch. A dollop of whipped cream sealed the deal. Absolute heaven!

This week, I decided to step up my crêpe game with Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau—souffléed crêpes flamed with Cointreau. While I adore crêpes, I’ve never been a fan of pastry cream. But I couldn’t resist the challenge of combining it with a flambé finish.

Recipe: Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Sweet Crêpe Batter

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 eggs

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup milk

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Grated zest of 1 orange

Pastry Cream

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¼ cup Cointreau plus 3 tablespoons for flaming the crêpes

1 egg, separated

3 egg whites

Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Unsalted butter, melted, for crêpe pan

Instructions:

1. Make the Crêpe Batter

Blend all the ingredients until smooth. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.

2. Prepare the Pastry Cream

Heat milk and vanilla until boiling.
In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks with sugar, then add flour and cornstarch.
Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture while whisking. Return to the stove and cook until thickened. Let cool.

3. Assemble the Soufflé Mixture

Whisk 3 egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold them gently into the cooled pastry cream.

4. Cook the Crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with melted butter. Cook each crêpe until golden on both sides. Set aside.

5. Fill and Bake

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Spread the soufflé mixture onto each crêpe, fold, and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes until golden and puffed.

6. Flambé the Crêpes

Heat 3 tablespoons of Cointreau in a saucepan. Light with a match and pour over the crêpes once the flame subsides.

You can find the recipe for Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here.

Tasting Notes
I love anything wrapped in a crêpe. By baking these in the oven for 15 minutes, they were crispy and even tastier. My imagination is going crazy thinking of the combinations I could put inside the crêpe instead of the pastry cream. Plus this could be an easy make-ahead dessert since the crêpes can be made early and stored between sheets of waxed paper.

More Sweet Crêpes
• Whisk: Crêpes au sucre (Sugar pancakes)
• 101 Cookbooks: Sweet Crepes Recipe
• Chocolate & Zucchini: Crêpes
• Spectacularly Delicious: Lemon Crepes

Links
• Video: Crêpes soufflées à la crème chiboust, flambées au grand (in French, but it shows the technique)
• No Recipes: 5 tips for making perfect crêpes (recipe for crêpes with buttered apples)
• Food Wishes: How to Make Crepes - Even the Messed-Up Ones Will Be Perfect!

Next Time
Crème anglaise in Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise) on page 51

More to Explore:

Charlotte Malakoff (Almond Cream Charlotte)

2011-07-04T00:01:00.011-04:00

The Charlotte Malakoff is a dessert steeped in history, celebrating the French capture of a Ukrainian town in 1855. While war is never worth celebrating, a rich dessert like this certainly is! With its fortress of ladyfingers encasing a kirsch-infused almond cream, topped with Chantilly cream and fresh berries, this French classic is both indulgent and celebratory.

Creating this dessert is an adventure that doesn’t demand perfection, as I quickly discovered. Despite my own deviations from the recipe, the result was delightful—a reminder that even kitchen mishaps can lead to sweet victories.

My first defeat was with the ladyfingers. Instead of saving the confectioner’s sugar to sprinkle on the piped fingers, I whisked both sugars with the egg whites and then folded in the yolks and flour. But I claim this as a victory since the ladyfingers survived and actually tasted yummy.

Without trouble, I whisked all the syrup ingredients together.

But the almond cream took a beating. Everything was going well at first. I softened the butter in the stand mixer and added the confectioner’s sugar, ground almonds and kirsch. But at this point, I forgot that I needed another ¾ cup of cream that was to be whisked to whipped cream status. Instead I proceeded to make the Chantilly cream and folded that in. So my almond cream had some extra vanilla and sweetness.

I admitted utter defeat when attempting to assemble this Malakoff. I dipped the cut ends of my less-than-perfect ladyfingers into the syrup and formed my weak fortress. I piped in my rogue almond cream (using a Ziploc bag and a fancy tip) and put it in the fridge where I hoped some magic would turn my unsightly Charlotte into a princess.

I surrender.

Recipe: Charlotte Malakoff (Almond Cream Charlotte)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Ladyfingers

3 eggs, separated

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

¾ cup cake flour, sifted

6 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar

Sugar Syrup

2 tablespoons cold water

2 tablespoons kirsch

2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar

Almond Cream

¼ pound unsalted butter

½ cup confectioner’s sugar

4 oz finely ground almonds (about 1 cup)

3 tablespoons kirsch

¾ cup heavy cream

Chantilly Cream

¾ cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon confectioner’s sugar

Instructions:

1. Make the Ladyfingers:

Preheat your oven to 350°F.
Whisk egg whites until stiff peaks form, gradually adding granulated sugar.
Fold in the egg yolks and sifted cake flour gently.
Pipe the batter into ladyfinger shapes on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Dust with confectioner’s sugar and bake for 10–12 minutes or until golden.

2. Prepare the Sugar Syrup:

Whisk together water, kirsch, and confectioner’s sugar until dissolved.

3. Make the Almond Cream:

Cream butter with confectioner’s sugar in a mixer.
Add ground almonds and kirsch, mixing until smooth.
Whip the heavy cream to stiff peaks and gently fold it into the almond mixture.

4. Prepare the Chantilly Cream;

Whisk heavy cream, vanilla, and confectioner’s sugar until soft peaks form.

5. Assemble the Charlotte:

Dip the cut ends of the ladyfingers in the sugar syrup.
Line a mold with the ladyfingers to form a “fortress.”
Pipe in the almond cream, smoothing the surface.
Chill for at least 2 hours.
Top with Chantilly cream and fresh berries before serving.

You can find the recipe for Charlotte Malakoff (Almond Cream Charlotte) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
A bit boozy, so next time I would half the kirsch or leave it out. This dessert is definitely best with fresh berries to cut the richness, but the ladyfingers are charming.

More Charlottes
• Whisk: Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)
• Whisk: Charlotte aux pommes, crème anglaise au Calvados (Apple Charlotte served with Calvados custard sauce)
• Tartelette: Strawberry Tartelette
• Bake or Break: Chocolate Charlotte
• Cannelle et Vanille: Summer Berry Charlotte

Links
Prepared Pantry: Ten Ways to Make Flavored Whipped Cream

Next Time
Crème pâtissière (Pastry cream) in Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau) page 182

More to Explore:

Clafoutis Normand (Apple and Cream Tart)

2011-06-27T00:01:00.004-04:00

Clafoutis Normand is a delightful French dessert that blends the simplicity of baked custard with the richness of apples and cream. While purists might argue it should be called a "flaugnarde" since it doesn't feature cherries, this Normandy-inspired variation holds its own with buttery baked apples and a hint of Calvados (if you fancy). Whether you choose to make it with a flaky crust or as a crustless custard, this dessert is both elegant and comforting.

Recipe: Clafoutis Normand (Apple and Cream Tart)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Pâté Brisée Sucrée

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup cake flour

1 egg

1 tablespoon water

Pinch salt

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 egg, lightly beaten, for glazing

Baked Apples

3 apples (preferably Golden Delicious)

1 lemon, halved

4 tablespoons butter, melted

1 tablespoon Calvados (I left this out)

1 tablespoon sugar

Custard

1 egg yolk

2 eggs

¼ cup sugar

1 ounce fine-ground almonds (about ¼ cup)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Pastry (Optional):

Combine the flours, salt, sugar, and butter in a food processor. Pulse until crumbly.
Add the egg, water, and vanilla. Blend until the dough comes together.
Roll out the pastry and line a tart pan. Chill for 30 minutes. Pre-bake at 375°F for 10 minutes.

2. Bake the Apples:

Peel, core, and slice the apples. Rub with lemon to prevent browning.
Toss the slices with melted butter, sugar, and Calvados (if using).
Arrange on a baking sheet and bake at 375°F until golden and tender (about 15 minutes).

3. Make the Custard:

Whisk together the egg yolk, eggs, sugar, almonds, vanilla, and cream.

4. Assemble and Bake:

If using pastry, line the pre-baked tart shell with the baked apples. For a crustless version, layer the apples in a greased baking dish.
Pour the custard mixture over the apples.
Bake at 375°F for 25–30 minutes, or until the custard is set and a knife comes out clean.

You can find the recipe for Clafoutis Normand (Apple and Cream Tart) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
I love pudding, so this dessert is in my "make-again" pile. I made it both with a pie crust and without (since I ran out of leftover pastry). The crust gave it some texture, but I prefer the baked custard version, even though it was a touch darker than it should have been.

More Clafoutis
• No Special Effects: Tartine's Cherry Clafoutis (Clafoutis aux Cerises)
• Cooking with Amy: Julia Child's Clafouti Recipe
• Gastronomer's Guide: Plum Flognarde
• Nourished Kitchen: Flaugnarde with Roasted Berries

Next Time
Crème chantilly, Crème pâtissière, Crème anglaise, Crème bavaroise
(Whipped cream, pastry cream, Bavarian cream)

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