what-i-found

Ladies Home Journal - 1895 - Fashionable Visiting Costumes

2014-08-24T19:00:00.000-07:00

It is through the interchange of visits that womankind keeps in touch with all that is going on in the world. The general woman has long ago seen the wisdom of a special at home day and realized the undesirability of having anybody "just drop in."
No matter how intimate two people may be it is pleasanter to each to make the visit rather a formal affair, paying due respect to one's hostess by proper dressing and proper consideration of the hour and the day. One makes a call on all the people whose names appear in one's visiting book at least once a year; and these calls, if possible, should be made in person, for there is, after all, not very much compliment in paying a yearly visit by post, or even through the most dignified footman.

WHAT TO WEAR

The hostess on her "at home " day is dressed daintily, but with great care, for she does not wish to convey the impression that her gown is finer than that of her visitors. The prettiest toilette is a well-fitting dress trimmed a little more elaborately than that which would be chosen for the street, and yet having about it no suggestion of the tea-gown or wrapper. In our illustration is shown a very smart costume to be worn by a hostess on her regular Thursday. The skirt is a black crepon with a tiny polka dot embroidered upon it in black silk; it is made with a pronounced flare and is a bit longer than a street skirt. The bodice is of heliotrope velvet having a plain fitted back and a draped front, the fullness being drawn up in such a way that it fastens high up on one side above the bust-line under a large bow of heliotrope satin. The full sleeves are of velvet and shape in to the arms by means of fine tricks that draw in the fullness, while the wrist finish is of heliotrope satin.

THE VISITOR'S TOILETTE

In the illustration is pictured the costume worn by a vsitor and while it is rich-looking, is quite as proper to be worn when walking as when driving. The material used is golden-brown broadcloth. The skirt has the usual spring, stands out well at the back, not only because it is stiffened, but because around the edge is sewed the covered bone that comes for this purpose. The bodice is fitted basque with a ripple skirt a little over a quarter of a yard deep. Five strips of cut jet start from the neck and shoulder seams in front, and reach to a little below the bustline,where each is finished with a swinging jet tassel. The belt is of black galloon hidden under cut jets and having all around, at regular intervals, jet tassels like those on the bodice but somewhat longer. The high collar is of black satin ribbon with pointed jet sections coming over it as if a turned down jet collar were worn. The sleeves are full puffs shaping in to cuffs that are decorated each with five large cut jet buttons placed on the outer side, though well toward the middle. The bonnet is a thin, brown felt capote trimmed with -jet and yellow velvet roses. This bodice is made sufficiently large to have a chamois jacket worn under it, so that until very cold weather comes a wrap is not necessary. The gloves are light tan undressed kid. In any of the dark colors this costume would be pretty and, of course, any pretty bead trimmings fancied could be substituted for the jet garniture. The vogue given to heliotrope, silver gray and black is attributed to the fact that so many of the royalties are laying aside mourning and assuming these shades. A silver gray get-up that is especially smart is shown in our illustration.The skirt is of silver-gray bengaline and has no trimming whatever. The bodice is of the same material and has square jacket fronts of silver-gray velvet out-Iined with a piping of steel passementerie. Just in front is a loose gilet of rose-colored chiffon. The sleeves have puffs of the velvet and cuffs of the silk with a narrow frill of chiffon. The bonnet is made of cut steel and pink velvet.

A SIMPLE COSTUME

Another simple but pretty toilette has a skirt of black silk, and with it is a bodice of the same material having a yoke, cuffs and collar of white satin overlaid with circles of cut jet. A long wrap of black velvet trimmed with jet and black guipure lace is worn with this, and a tiny bonnet of black velvet decorated with fans of white lace, black tips and jet gives the finishing touch. No niatter how simple one's gown may be, if there is a little care as to its arrangement, and the certainty that one's veil and gloves are quite correct, then one may feel sure that one is properly dressed for a mistake is oftener made in over than in under dressing.

The woman who has to freshen up her black gown for visiting must remember that she can add a box-plait of satin with some decorative buttons on it to the bodice, and that the sleeves may be puffs of satin with cuffs of the gown material, or they may be entirely of the satin. Her-skirt will need only to be freshly stiffened and made immaculate, while the new trimming on the bodice will give a new look to the entire gown. A freshened bodice seen lately was a half-fitted one of black cashmere. It was trimmed with rows of butter colored lace arranged in stripes as was fancied last summer on the grasscloth bodices. Then, over the high stock of black ribbon were four points made of butter-colored lace and insertion, and on the cuffs were deep points of the same colored lace that was a little wider. When the wearer grows weary of this she will put on a flaring sailor collar of velvet.

WITH THE BLACK SKIRT

Every woman knows that it is much easier to freshen up a bodice that is to be worn in the house than one that is to be seen on the street without a wrap over it, for that must be exact. A hostess possessing a black skirt which she intends to wear with many, bodices, displays one made of pale yellow, silk with a full gilet of rose chiffon over it and a zouave jacket of rose velvet spangled with gold. This sounds gaudy, but as the pink is very pale it and the yellow blend perfectly. Dressed carefully for a visit one is able to be at one's best, for it is absolutely true that a woman never feels so happy nor so eager to make others happy, as when she is conscious that her toilette is a sucess. Pay your regular visit, my dear woman and keep yourself in the world. When you grow careless of your social duties you will be out of the world. Arrange for your frock, arrange for your own " at home" day and start out with the intention of seeing your friends and of having the very pleasantest of afternoons.

Summer Promenade Costumes from McCall's Magazine - 1902

2014-08-22T14:00:00.000-07:00

I just got some lovely fashion plates that we get to enjoy. Some have no information but these are from McCall's Magazine, August 1902. The outfits are each two pieces, waists or jackets with their skirts. I hope you click twice to see the details. Try to imagine sewing these...wow!

(A repost from August 23, 2011)

Lana Lobell Catalog - Spring and Summer Fashion Sonata

2014-08-19T13:59:00.002-07:00

The last post from this catalog went into a Blogger black hole so I'll repeat what we know and show you some more of these incredibly cool outfits, including designed from Jonathan Logan
The founder, Boris Leavitt started the catalog to showcase his dress shop and named it after his daughter. She went on to own horse farms and he was a wealthy art collector. This is undated, but the post mark was last used in 1954.

Rooter Caps, Soccer Hose, Soft Ball Slacks, Tank Suits! More from Athletic Goods Catalog 1935

2014-08-12T08:16:00.000-07:00

This is the last of these, but hardly the least. Why didn't Cadet Caps catch on?

(a repost from Feb, 2009)

Athletic Goods 1935 Supply Catalog - Pep Squad and Cheerleaders!

2014-08-11T06:49:00.000-07:00

I don't think those slim skirts allowed for much jumping around, but don't the men look dashing? It's because they had "Pep Trousers"!
What made a sweater a "Shaker Sweater? And what was a Melton Jacket?

(a repost from Feb, 2009)

Athletic Goods 1935 Supply Catalog - Vintage Football!

2014-08-10T09:05:00.000-07:00

From Lowe & Campbell Athletic Goods Co. out of Kansas. This is a wonderful look back, even for us who don't know one end of a football from the other. But stick around...football gear wasn't all they sold.

(A repost from Feb, 2009)

The Nightshirt Coat plus Hat and Gloves of Ocelot - Harpers Bazaar 1944

2014-08-09T19:00:00.000-07:00

Pure Drama. What's her story?

"The nightshirt coat in citron green Juilliard wool. It has all the time-honored features-little button-down collar, four buttons on a brief front hand, full wrist-buttoned sleeves. About $90. Saks Fifth Avenue; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. John Frederics outsize pillbox, and gloves of ocelot. Jewelry from Trabert and Hoeffer-Mauboussin. Helena Rubinstein's Red Coral lipstick and White Flame Cream Tint foundation."
(A repost from November, 2010)

Lana Lobell Catalog - Spring and Summer Fashion Sonata

2014-08-09T18:39:00.001-07:00

This is a terrific catalog from the Lana Lobell Company. The founder, Boris Leavitt started the catalog to showcase his dress shop and named it after his daughter. She went on to own horse farms and he was a wealthy art collector.
This is undated, but the post mark was last used in 1954. Goodness knows it's full of fabulous fifties fashion. Enjoy...and stick around, more tomorrow!

"Soon The Season of Tailors" - French Style in 1950

2014-07-22T14:07:00.000-07:00

It's January, 1950 in France and les Bonnes Soirees magazine says you need a good tailored jacket. So many choices! But if that isn't enough we have some two-tone dresses (don't miss #422) and some designer goodies too. "Soon The Season of Tailors" is a google translation...I'm guessing one of you can do better. Please?

How to look fabulous in 1951 - go French!

2014-07-15T07:43:00.000-07:00

The gal who really wanted to wow them in 1951 could get a cue from this July, 15th les Bonnes Soirees magazine. Some 'Fresh' dresses to sew and then a few separates to travel with on your holiday. But when you are back in town they let you know which designer has the gowns and accessories you need.

1951 Spring Fashions

2014-07-11T11:55:00.000-07:00

Wonderfulness from les Bonnes Soirees magazine, March 11, 1951. Lovely slim dresses with amazing side drapes topped with shaped swing coats. Then just a few designer ensembles and the hats to match. Profitez!

French Fashions to Sew from 1951

2014-07-07T08:27:00.000-07:00

From the March 25, 1951 issue of les Bonnes Soirees (Good Evening) magazine, we have a selection of spring outfits that you could make. But it looks like you would have had to been very skilled, these have some serious details. But then you get to look tre belle!

And one for the Petites filles

French Fashions from 1951

2014-07-05T11:49:00.000-07:00

This is a selection from the March 25, 1951 issue of les Bonnes Soirees (Good Evening) magazine. We have New Trends in Paris and then a Flower Plate hat you can make. (I have no French at all, so please chime in)

Our Flag - 1928

2014-07-04T17:04:00.000-07:00

Paris Fashions for French Seamstresses - 1953

2014-07-03T08:13:00.000-07:00

I just got some French women's magazines, this one les Veillees des Chaumiers which Google translates as Evenings Thatched Cottage. This magazine started in 1898 and continues today aimed at senior citizens. But this issue from March 7, 1953 looks to be read by a young housewife. And a stylish one at that. Here are some patterns you could order for the slim skirt with fabulous pockets, the blouse with amazing scallop bodice or the collection of spring jackets, each one a treasure.
(I don't speak French at all so if someone can help out it would be appreciated.)

Be A Continental Sensation!

2014-06-22T19:13:00.000-07:00

A few ideas from a Simplicity flyer showing the Summer Scene in 1962. You could be super-feminine in hip-riding pants and a be-ruffled toplet. Or belt a chic beach-dress. Then after you enjoy that day at the seashore you can cover your top and shorts with the skirt so you can go marketing!

Inspiration For Embroidery - Graphics

2014-06-21T13:45:00.000-07:00

Our last look at Inspiration For Embroidery by Constance Howard published in 1966. This group are basic shapes, turned with creativity into works of art. Look around you and try seeing as she does.

"Machine Embroidery: an exercise in the use of pure hues. Sister Marie Louie"

"The square and the rectangle divided as a basis for pattern distribution. This may be done symmetrically or asymmetrically, a circular arrangement may be placed within a square and visa versa. These main divisions may be broken down into smaller ones, according to the scale of the design, after which details are worked out."

"Distribution of pattern within the circle and the semi-circle. These lines and areas give only the main direction of movement on which pattern is built up from the broad basis to the fine detail."

"The square. Increased in width by mathematical proportions. The radius of the diagonal gives the next width. Squares spaced equally and unequally. The square cut into squares and rectangles, also divided into squares and rectangles. Embroidered squares using satin stitch and couching. Stitches formed as squares. Fabric cut diagonally and joined. Other diagrams show ideas for using the square."

"Ideas based on bottles. Man-made objects are a good source of designs for embroidery and give an inexhaustible number of ideas."

Inspiration For Embroidery - Animals

2014-06-17T09:34:00.000-07:00

More wonderfulness from Inspiration For Embroidery by Constance Howard published in 1966. She looks at animals in color and in the line drawings that inspire. Get busy and show us what you create!

"A hedgehog worked in various metal threads and padded gold kid." By Jane Page

"Various birds, simplified from reality into semi-geometric shapes."

"Decorative fishes based on the drawing of the carp."

"Cats, simplified for design. Horses from Greek pottery in the Louve. Primitive animal on a pot in the Louve."

Inspiration For Embroidery

2014-06-08T15:20:00.002-07:00

I just got a copy of Inspiration For Embroidery by Constance Howard published in 1966. This is an amazing book and I want to show you many, many pictures. Don't think these are limited to embroidery ideas, she shows you how everything you look at is art and can translate to fabric.
This chapter is called "Special Areas of Design" and she says, "Each area has certain limitations which are a challenge to the designer, in ingenuity of planning and in solving the problem within the limitations imposed by the shape and nature of the particular article."

You Need Not Wear Another Single Thing!

2014-05-23T17:23:00.001-07:00

"Bon Ton Lingerie Plastique and your frock - that's all!"
"...does away with overlapping thickness of vest, girdle, brassiere, pantie or bloomer."
No boning this must have been pretty daring. And not too popular since I can't find any other references for the name 'Plastique'. But maybe some of that was the cost. $12.50 in 1929 is about $168.00 today, a bit pricey.
Found in McCall's Magazine, October, 1929.

Let's Laugh at the Men

2014-05-21T14:58:00.000-07:00

Granted, this is low hanging fruit, everybody in 1972 looked pretty bad. But the poor guys got the worse of it. Especially if they were shopping from the Montgomery Ward catalog for Spring/Summer. Of course that begs the question...who shopped from a Montgomery Ward catalog anyway? But somebody did. And some guys looked like this.

Summer Fashion 1945!

2014-05-14T20:29:00.000-07:00

It may still be snowing at your house, but we can all look forward to summer. The Montgomery Ward Spring/Summer Catalog for 1945 has some suggestions. What's your favorite?

The Duchess of Windsor's Sewing Patterns

2014-05-12T15:08:00.000-07:00

When Wallis Simpson wasn't busy being one of the most glamorous women in the world she found time to design sewing patterns for the Spadea Pattern Company. "I've done two or three hundred patterns so far and I love doing them, says the Duchess. I usually take my ideas from the clothes I wish I could wear - so as not to put every other woman in high round necks and the severe lines I insist on for myself." (The Windsor Style by Suzy Menkes)
If the Spadea pattern company had two or three hundred of her designs they aren't easy to find today. I have had a few, but these images are from the Vintage Pattern Wiki.

A Look At The Duchess Of Windsor

2014-05-10T17:37:00.000-07:00

I just got a copy of The Windsor Style by Suzy Menkes. It's a fascinating book about a level of high life that none of us will ever see. The home furnishings, the art, the food and of course the fashion. There is no disputing how influential Wallis Simpson was in setting fashion trends, both in her dress and her jewels. Her whole life was glamorous, from her embroidered lingerie to her world famous jewelry. But here are some of her chic clothing choices.

"The Duchess of Windsor in the square-shouldered 1940's silhouette..."

"Wallis's severely plain crepe dress decorated with bows is by Mainbocher."

"Wallis using the chic bag as the essential 1940s accessory to trimly tailored suits."

"Wallis in Schiaparelli's carbon blue silk jersey dress and jacket embroidered with baroque gilded scrolls, photographed by Beaton at the Chateau de Cande on the Loire just before her marriage."

"The Duchess photographed by Horst in 1947 in a Scarlett O'Hara dress by Mainbocher. The austere high neck is balanced by the panniered taffeta skirt built out over an elaborate crinoline."

Four Stylish Tailored Suits from 1927

2014-05-01T15:59:00.001-07:00

From the 1927 edition of the Woman's Institute Library of Dressmaking - Tailored Garments we get a look at some tailored suits of the era. I love the little subtle details that send exactly the right message.

The Basic Tailored Suit

"The coat is cut with a panel effect front and back and with the seam-line joining accentuated by stitching. Such a plan makes the coat perfectly becoming to the full figure; but by the use of a flared effect below the waistline, when such is in vogue, it may be made suitable for the sender type also. The mannish notched collar and the close fitting sleeves are appropriate details."

The Boyish Tailleur

"A youthful style, varying little in outward appearance from its severely tailored sister, is the boyish tailleur or tailored suit...The coat does not lap but is held together by link buttons. The mannish notched collar has a certain appeal, while bound pockets add a trimming note quite in keeping with the general effect. The outfit is completed by a two-piece skirt of becoming length and width."

The Three Piece Suit

"...a suit consisting of a dress having the blouse portion of silk and the skirt of cloth, and a coat of the same fabric as the skirt. The coat is unusual in cut, and so constructed that the seam lines are made a decoration further emphasized by the unusual pockets and trimmings. The wide sleeves and slightly surplice lines of the coat are other interesting details."

The Suit Dress

"In these days of one-piece dresses and a desire for unbroken length of line, many business women prefer to wear the coat of a suit throughout the entire day, feeling that their appearance in a separate skirt and blouse is not so attractive as they would wish. Such a plan is throughly satisfactory, because there is a certain trimness about a tailored suit that cannot be expressed by any other garment."