Experience Travel Group‘s Head of Travel & Southeast Asia Specialist, Holly Newing, is just back from Thailand. With over ten years of experience designing holidays across the country, she knows exactly what makes a hotel worth recommending and what doesn’t.

We always visit far more hotels than we recommend. Our Hotel Collection stays deliberately small because we’re not trying to catalogue Thailand; we’re identifying the places we’d confidently say are worth staying in. We look for something specific: hotels that feel rooted in their surroundings, have a character you won’t find anywhere else, and play a meaningful role in a wider itinerary. Ultimately, we carefully choose hotels that will add to your experience, rather than simply giving you somewhere comfortable to sleep. Some earn a spot and keep it year upon year. Others never make the cut.

Here, Holly shares what makes these ETG favourites so special, which travellers she’d recommend them to, and just as importantly, who she’d steer in a different direction.

The Pimalai, Koh Lanta

Why we rate it at ETG: The Pimalai earns its place on our list because it gets the balance exactly right, which is why one journalist who travelled with us dubbed it “the Goldilocks of the Thai islands”. It’s all about the location: Koh Lanta has a sense of seclusion on one of Thailand’s quieter, less developed islands, but also has just enough of a buzz to keep things feeling upbeat. Not too small, not too big. Just right.

Why I loved it: The arrival by boat alone sets the mood (I particularly liked being welcomed ashore with flower garlands, it felt a little like ‘The White Lotus’… without the dark undertones though!) There’s a private-feeling beach with swimmable waters, four distinct restaurants that never tip into resort-y, canteen territory, and a clifftop pool with views that stop you mid-sentence. The five-island snorkelling trip was one of the best organised excursions I’ve ever done in Thailand: I saw reef sharks, pristine coral, and loved sundowners on the water to finish. Back on land, Koh Lanta’s Old Town is worth an afternoon’s exploration, too.

Holly’s sundowners followed by a fire show on the beach along from Pimalai

Best for: Couples and families wanting a proper island wind-down at the end of a longer itinerary, and those who want to feel remote but not isolated.

Not ideal for: Travellers who want total peace and quiet; there’s a gentle social buzz about the place. For this reason, I’d arrange for honeymooners after a true castaway experience to stay elsewhere. I’d also say that this wouldn’t suit travellers who prefer a rustic look and feel, this one is pretty slick and modern.

Why this works well in a Thailand itinerary: Koh Lanta sits at the southern end of the Andaman coast, which makes The Pimalai a natural final chapter to a longer Thailand trip, especially if you need to unwind after spending time in cities and jungles. It’s far enough from the party crowds of Koh Samui and Phuket to feel like a genuine escape, yet connected enough to keep logistics straightforward.

Holly’s Top Tip: Sundowners on the beach are a quintessential Thailand ritual for a reason, and the happy hour here makes the most of it. With a mango cocktail in hand and the sun sinking into the sea, I was transported straight back to my backpacking days. (Thankfully, the bed waiting for me afterwards was considerably more comfortable.)

Rayavadee, Krabi

Why we rate it at ETG: There are very few hotels in Thailand, or anywhere, where the setting is so dramatic. Accessible only by boat, framed by towering limestone karsts, and without a road in sight, Rayavadee has a level of natural beauty that feels almost implausible. It’s the kind of place that makes even seasoned travellers stop and stare.

Why I loved it: It really feels like a secluded oasis, with its hidden pathways, jungle-like grounds and a glorious pool tucked beneath the cliffs, just off Railay Beach. I’d never been anywhere that captures the ‘classic Thailand’ feeling so well: slightly nostalgic and the kind of tropical scenery you can’t help but take too many photos of.

A practical perk of staying here is that you can wander along the fantastical beaches without the day-trippers. The rooms are larger than you’d expect, the beds particularly generous, and the whole property has a traditional, not-too-flashy feel. Dinner at the Grotto restaurant is atmospheric but I’d say Krua Phranang by Phranang beach is a strong alternative. If you’re in the mood to lace up your trainers and explore, I recommend going rock climbing and hiking through a nearby cave to a panoramic viewpoint.

Holly dining at Krua Phranang restaurant and panoramic viewpoint at the end of her hike

Best for: Travellers who are moved by landscape and want to feel genuinely transported. Romantics, adventurers, and those who appreciate understated luxury in a remarkable natural setting.

Not ideal for: Those seeking a small resort, there are a lot of pavilions here (although it retains a tranquil atmosphere) and those who would take issue with its being close to a public (albeit picturesque) beach.

Why this works well in a Thailand itinerary: Railay is one of the most distinctive stops on the Andaman coast, and Rayavadee sits at the heart of it. Krabi town is just a short longtail boat ride away, making onward connections easy, and the surrounding area (Koh Lanta, Khao Sok) offers excellent options for extending the trip in either direction. If you’re looking for a treat while island hopping Southern Thailand, then this hotel is the pièce de résistance.

Holly’s Top Tip: Get to Phranang Beach before 10am, before the boats arrive. Framed by those limestone cliffs with no one else around, it’s the kind of morning you’ll be telling people about for years. 

500 Rai Floating Resort, Khao Sok National Park

Why we rate it at ETG: Again, this one is all about its location. There are several floating resorts on Cheow Lan Lake, and 500 Rai is the one we rate the highest by a mile. It’s still fairly simple, but the views more than make up for it. As soon as you step out, you’re immediately surrounded by the glassy water, towering limestone peaks and a stillness that can be increasingly hard to find in Thailand.

Why I loved it: Waking up to that view from my floating chalet was a highlight of the trip. I set my alarm for sunrise, watched the light glow over the water without leaving bed, and it was worth every second of lost sleep. Gliding out by boat was really special, at times it felt as though I had the whole lake to myself.

And I was surprised how much I got into the digital detox side of things. Having limited Wi-Fi actually made the stay so much more relaxing… without my phone constantly going off, it was just so easy to switch off and really soak it all in. I was given a code for an hour of Wi-Fi but barely used any in the end.

Holly’s view from bed at sunrise

Best for: Families looking for an adventurous stay as well as honeymooners seeking an unusual, memorable stay. It’s particularly good for anyone hoping to unplug for a few days and spend more time outdoors.

Not ideal for: Travellers who need high-end facilities. Remember, the accommodation is unfussy, and the remote setting means limited choice. For instance, meals are served at the resort and the menu is local Thai. (That’s part of the charm, but I know it won’t suit everyone.)

Why this works well in a Thailand itinerary: It’s a great fit for travellers who want to be out and about in the fresh air but also fancy some proper downtime, without just lying on a beach. If you’re exploring Southern Thailand, it makes a really refreshing contrast to an island-hopping trip.

It also pairs brilliantly with a wider Khao Sok National Park stay. A few nights here combined with Our Jungle House (below) gives you an interesting mix of rainforest and lake — and increasingly, it’s the combination we find ourselves recommending as a lesser-known alternative to Elephant Hills, which has honestly become a bit too ‘packaged’.

Holly’s Top Tip: Don’t forget to wake up in time for sunrise at least once. Watching the light spread across the vast lake as the limestone cliffs peek out from the dawn mist is seriously special. 

Our Jungle House, Khao Sok National Park

Why we rate it at ETG: We keep recommending Our Jungle House because it properly immerses you in the rainforest. The treehouses are rustic rather than polished; you wake to the sounds of the jungle, surrounded by dense greenery, up close to a different side of Thailand. It also allows more flexibility than the larger hotels in the area, so we can arrange the right activities at the right time for you, whether that’s wildlife walks, gentle exploration or something more adventurous.

Why I loved it: The jungle night walk was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. Using UV torches rather than iPhone torches, I spotted a scorpion glowing in the undergrowth, a slow loris peering down from the trees, and became acutely aware of just how alive the forest is after sunset. I was accompanied by a brilliant guide, so felt confident walking in parts of the forest I might otherwise have given a wide berth!

I also appreciated how well-located this hotel is; there’s a small town just a short walk away with restaurants right on the doorstep, so it doesn’t feel too remote and you can dine out in the evening if you fancy it.

The fluorescent scorpion under UV light on Holly’s night-time jungle adventure

Best for: Families with teenagers as sleeping in a treehouse with monkeys in the canopy and tropical birds outside feels like a real adventure. And couples who love nature and are after something a bit more raw and real.

Not ideal for: Anyone who considers air conditioning a non-negotiable or who’s after a polished hotel experience. (The accommodation is intentionally rustic, so if you’d prefer a bit more comfort while still staying close to nature, nearby Lost Horizons would be a better fit.) I’d also steer away travellers with limited mobility, as there are walkways and steps throughout.

Why this hotel works well in a Thailand itinerary: The jungle setting is a brilliant contrast to Thailand’s beaches and islands, and Our Jungle House is one of our favourite ways to experience it. Combined with a stay at 500 Rai on the lake, it creates a rainforest-and-lake itinerary that we increasingly recommend over Elephant Hills: more flexible, more immersive and ultimately more rewarding.

Holly’s Top Tip: We only ever book our travellers into the treehouses rather than the bungalows; the elevated views and sensation of being up in the canopy make the world of difference.

FEELING INSPIRED TO GO?

Explore our ETG Thailand trips, then talk to our specialists.

Feel free to get in touch or call us.

One of the reasons people travel with ETG is our on-the-ground knowledge, long-standing relationships and deep connections across the region. As specialists in South and Southeast Asia, we’re always on the ball and share up-to-date travel news here.

As a UK-based company, we also occasionally cover South and Southeast Asian events, culture and openings relevant to life here in the UK and beyond. You will find the occasional update about ETG itself too; enough to keep you informed, without adding to the noise.

We also maintain a Hotel Hub and a Flights Hub covering new properties and evolving air routes across Asia.

Latest travel news in South & Southeast Asia:

Melissa Nicholas

Melissa is one of the original members of team ETG. Having travelled extensively worldwide and worked in the industry for years, she pioneered our holidays to Southeast Asia in 2006. Now, as our Head of Product, Melissa makes sure we offer the most varied and interesting holidays in the business. She is famous for her eye for detail and works tirelessly to ensure each ETG experience is the best it can be. Melissa loves working in travel not only to feed her own wanderlust but because she gets to spark curiosity in others too – not least her two children, who have been lucky enough to accompany her all over Asia.

By Experience Travel Group‘s Ella Theaker, following a Cambodia trip.

I didn’t arrive in Kampot with many expectations.

It was one of those places I’d heard about in passing: a riverside town on Cambodia’s south coast that most people seemed to pass through rather than stay in. Everyone I knew who’d been seemed to like it, but the reviews rarely went much beyond “nice” or “sleepy”.

Then last year, our local partner wouldn’t stop singing its praises. The more I heard, the more curious I become and I started to feel drawn to the idea of visiting the next time I got the chance. So, when my family gave me the green light to plan our Christmas holiday, and agreed to Cambodia after years of me going on (and on, and on) about it, I knew Kampot had to make the itinerary.

It was definitely one of the best decisions of the trip.

First impressions

There’s a faded kind of elegance to the town; think low-rise colonial buildings, a gentle river running through the middle, and just enough going on without ever feeling too busy. You can easily spend a morning wandering with no plan and enjoy soaking it all up. If you’re up early, the fish market is well worth a look, the energy of it is incredible (according to my dad, the only early riser in our family).

There’s plenty to do when you feel like being a bit more active too. From cycling around the salt flats to kayaking through mangroves or heading up into the hills, you’re at no risk of getting itchy feet despite the laid-back feel.

We stayed at Hotel Old Cinema, a beautifully restored art deco building that, as the name suggests, used to be a cinema. Our driver actually remembered watching films there as a child. The rooms are simple but gorgeous, and in terms of service absolutely nothing was too much trouble. They even made us breakfast to go for our early journey to the airport, even though the kitchen wasn’t technically open. We also became quite fond of the two resident cats who clearly think they run the place.

Credit: Rod Birtles

Our day on “Fish Island”

One of the standout experiences of our trip was a visit to what locals call ‘the end of the road’ in Khmer, though most people know it as Fish Island.

Our guide was a woman called Soon, who runs a community centre (you can read more about her incredible story here). She really brought everything to life.

We set off in a remorque (similar to a tuk-tuk) to explore. Walking across the fields in the morning, we kept hearing this strange, almost haunting wailing sound. It turned out to be kites hovering in the wind. There’s a local legend behind them, involving a clever escape from captivity by a famous hero, and if you visit in December you’ll likely hear them as they’re traditionally flown at this time of year. If one lands on your house it’s considered seriously bad luck, so they’re kept well away from villages.

We stopped at a small family palm sugar farm where everything is done by hand. The fresh juice was incredible. They smoke it, and the flavour was unlike anything I’ve tried before. My parents were slightly amused when I insisted on buying a kilo of sugar to take home, but I have no regrets. It was worth the luggage space.

From there, we passed Cham fishing communities mending nets, salt flats shimmering in the heat, and a Khmer family making Nom Sleuk Chak (coconut rice cakes) who gave us some to try. Then we reached Soon’s community centre, where we stopped for lunch. It’s an incredible space, offering skills training, creative spaces and studios, and opportunities for local children. I had to be talked out of buying every single woodcut print available, they were so beautiful.

Credit: Rod Birtles

Tasting Kampot pepper

I’ll be honest, even as a big foodie I didn’t expect a pepper farm to be a highlight. But pepper is a big deal here. Kampot pepper is a certified geographical indication, like Champagne, and once you taste it, you understand why.

We visited Bo Tree Pepper Farm, a small, family-run place where you get a proper sense of how labour-intensive it all is. Growing pepper here isn’t straightforward, and many farms disappeared during the Khmer Rouge era. What you see now is part of a slow rebuilding process.

The tasting was the real surprise. We tried the pepper on its own, with mouthfuls of plain white rice as a palate cleanser. White, black and red all come from the same plant, just harvested at different times. Red pepper in particular was a revelation; sweeter, more complex, and kind of addictive. It’s rarer too, as farmers have to leave the berries on the vine until perfectly ripe, which comes with a risk. Another chunk of my luggage allowance went on bringing industrial amounts home.

Time on the river

One morning we took to the water, kayaking along the river past dense tangles of greenery, slightly surreal Western-style mansions and the occasional abandoned resort.

We rounded off the day at Nibi Spa, right on the riverbank. After a massage, we drifted between the sauna and steam room before I eventually melted into a hammock beside the water, listening to the river burbling along beside me.

Why Cambodia deserves proper exploration

My time in Kampot reinforced something we’ve long believed at ETG: Cambodia is all too often overlooked in favour of Vietnam and Thailand, treated as the younger sibling of Southeast Asia rather than a destination in its own right. And, if it is included, people often view it as a quick add-on; a few nights in Siem Reap to see Angkor Wat, maybe a stop in Phnom Penh, and then move swiftly on. But by doing this, you’re missing out on so much.

It’s an incredible country. Yes, their recent history is heavy and still very present, but I’ve never met people who laugh or smile as much; their warmth and humour is what stays with you. It combines temples, cities, islands, beaches and jungle, it’s got real variety.

This was my fourth visit, and I’m already planning the next. I’d love to head east to places like Kratie and Mondulkiri in search of Irrawaddy dolphins and wild gibbons. Even in Siem Reap, where we spent five nights, I still didn’t get round to everything I wanted to do!

If Cambodia is on your radar, please do give it the time it deserves. And whatever you do, don’t skip Kampot. (Get in touch and I’ll make sure you don’t miss a thing.)

FEELING INSPIRED TO GO?

Explore our ETG Cambodia trips, then talk to our specialists.

Feel free to get in touch or call us.

By Experience Travel Group‘s Sara Wells after a river cruise aboard Antara Catamarans in India.

Where is Bhitarkanika National Park and what’s special about it?

Bhitarkanika sits deep within the river-woven countryside of Odisha (an eastern Indian state on the Bay of Bengal, formerly known as Orissa), where mangroves replace roads and the natural world dictates the rhythm of the day.

India’s second largest mangrove ecosystem after the Sundarbans, Bhitarkanika is one of the country’s least visited national parks: not because it lacks drama, but because it has never been easy to reach.

This is a place of genuine wildness: an exceptional wetland that supports an extraordinary concentration of birdlife, and one of India’s most significant habitats for saltwater crocodiles.

The Boat That Changed Everything

Until recently, exploring Bhitarkanika meant accepting certain compromises. Accommodation was limited, and most wildlife outings took place on brightly painted wooden day boats; characterful, certainly, but noisy and poorly suited to the unhurried, patient observation that proper wildlife watching requires.

Antara River Cruises changed that in 2023. Taking over a previous project and starting afresh, Antara replaced the old fleet with a single low-impact alternative: an exclusive two-suite catamaran, discreetly crewed and designed for slow travel through the park’s waterways.

The vessel is permitted to anchor inside Bhitarkanika itself. After 4pm, when every other boat is required to leave, the park becomes profoundly still: marked by birdsong, the creak of mangrove roots, and the gradual settling of the forest into evening. Mornings offer uninterrupted access during peak wildlife hours, before the day’s activity resumes.

This sense of solitude is rare in India’s protected areas, and central to what makes the experience so compelling.

On the Water with an Eagle-Eyed Guide

I was hosted by Sanghamitra Jena — who introduced herself warmly, “call me Mitra” — an Odishan travel veteran and one of the region’s true tourism pioneers. The first female guide here, she played a key role in introducing tourism to rural Odisha, opening the area’s earliest camp-style lodges.

From the moment I met her, I knew I was in exceptionally good company. Her approach is rooted in deep local knowledge and an unparalleled understanding of the landscape; knowledge she generously shares at every turn. Over high tea on the top deck, conversation drifted easily from wildlife behaviour to village life, taking in prawn farming, livestock lost to crocodiles, tensions with encroaching fishermen, and the realities of conservation funding, all delivered with warmth, humour, and total honesty.

On the water, Mitra’s wildlife spotting is exceptional. Under her guidance, we trained our eyes to pick out painted storks, mangrove pittas, whistling teals, grey herons, black-crested night herons, and five of the seven species of kingfisher found in the park.

Stepping Ashore

The sailing itinerary allows time to step ashore. On a smaller tender, we set off to explore Sua Jora creek and reach an island for a gentle three-kilometre walk through dramatically different ecosystems.

Freshwater lotus ponds alive with lake birds, saltwater pools where crocodiles bask, and mangroves rising on their intricate root systems.

Two staff accompanied us on the walk, equipped with water, a first aid kit, and a working knowledge of where not to linger!

When to Visit: Timing It Right for Birdlife

October to March is the best window weather-wise, and coincides with the arrival of migratory birds from Europe and Central Asia.

For serious birders, the most rewarding time to visit Bhitarkanika is directly after the monsoons (September to January), when hundreds of painted storks nest and hatch in platform nests built high in the trees above the water.

It’s a vivid indicator of a healthy wetland ecosystem and a sight to behold!

Extending the Journey into Rural Odisha

It’s possible to add two days exploring the surrounding countryside on to this river journey; travelling as a party of two or four to ensure it’s kept low impact and that access is meaningful. You can visit Nalia, known for its intricate grass weaving; Arili, with its Shiva temples; and a traditional pottery village near Dangamala.

For those seeking greater range, Bhitarkanika pairs naturally with Similipal National Park, another of Odisha’s undervisited reserves, now home to an estimated 32 tigers and considerably improved facilities — including the sensitively restored Belgadia Palace. Together, the two parks offer a well-balanced journey combining genuine wildlife access with cultural depth.

Recommended Itinerary

For travellers who want the full scope of eastern India done properly, the following sequence works well: Kolkata, with three nights at the Glenburn Penthouse, provides an unhurried arrival point before the journey moves east.

From there, three nights at Belgadia Palace in Odisha gives access to Similipal’s forests, as well as the Chhau festival in January (a UNESCO-recognised performing art form of considerable power), the Sun Temple at Konark, and the region’s remarkable Ikat textile tradition.

A single night at Killa Aul Palace then bridges the journey south to Bhitarkanika (arrival before 3pm is essential to board the catamaran before it gets dark).

Two to three nights aboard the Antara catamaran follows, with the option to extend into the surrounding villages.

The journey concludes at Rambha Palace on Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest coastal lagoon, and one of the finest sites on the subcontinent for marsh and waterbirds.

FEELING INSPIRED TO GO?

Explore our ETG India trips, then talk to our specialists.

Feel free to get in touch or call us.

The headlines sound dramatic. Perhaps a little too dramatic.

If some recent reports are to be believed, airlines are apparently on the verge of cancelling flights left, right and centre because of jet fuel shortages.

But the reality is considerably less alarming than the headlines suggest.

What’s largely being reported as “mass cancellations” is, in many cases, airlines doing what airlines have always done: adjusting schedules, consolidating quieter flights and tweaking capacity to match demand.

That may not generate quite as many clicks as “aviation chaos”, of course.

Most of the “cuts” are about seats, not entire routes disappearing.

When airlines talk about reducing capacity, they are frequently talking about reducing the number of seats available rather than abandoning routes altogether.

That might mean:

• combining two quieter flights into one fuller service
• switching to a different aircraft type
• trimming frequencies on weaker routes

Passengers may occasionally see a schedule change as a result. But that’s very different from the idea that airlines are suddenly grounding fleets and scrapping long-haul travel.

In truth, airlines constantly make these decisions behind the scenes. Sophisticated systems monitor bookings in real time and adjust routes accordingly. Fuel prices simply mean carriers are being slightly quicker and sharper with those decisions than they might have been previously.

Short-haul routes usually feel it first

If there are dozens of flights a day between two cities, it’s relatively easy for an airline to consolidate passengers onto fewer departures if demand softens slightly.

That’s why short-haul and leisure routes are usually the first places airlines make adjustments.

For example, if demand for a package holiday route to somewhere like Tenerife weakens, airlines may reduce flights because they operate both the aircraft and the holiday packages themselves.

Long-haul routes are a very different proposition.

Long-haul flights to Asia remain busy

Flights to destinations across Asia continue to see strong demand, particularly as reduced capacity through parts of the Middle East has shifted passenger flows elsewhere. In peak periods, many of these services are already extremely full.

From an airline’s perspective, long-haul routes are often among the most commercially valuable flights they operate. Cancelling profitable services with strong demand makes very little financial sense.

And crucially, we have not seen cancellations affecting our clients’ long-haul holidays because of fuel supply concerns (nor do we currently expect to).

So should you worry?

There is a sizeable gap between the reality of airlines fine-tuning schedules and the impression created by headlines suggesting travel is grinding to a halt.

Schedule changes have always been part of flying. What’s happening now is largely airlines tightening up efficiency in response to operating costs — not a collapse in international travel.

If you’re travelling to Asia or elsewhere long haul this year, there’s every reason to look forward to the holiday itself rather than worrying about the headlines.

By Experience Travel Group‘s Jamie Owen after a river cruise in Cambodia.

Aboard Aqua Mekong (as featured in our ‘The Mekong in Style’ holiday).

Full Disclosure

I’ve spent years living in Southeast Asia with the Mekong practically on my doorstep, yet I’d only ever seen small stretches of it. (Forgivable, perhaps, for a river that runs over 3,000 miles.)

And while I’m confessing, I’ll share that cruises had never really been my “thing”: too many people, too little depth.

But when the boutique river cruise ship Aqua Mekong (twice crowned ‘the World’s Best River Cruise Line’ by Travel+Leisure) invited me aboard for a journey in Cambodia, it didn’t take me long to accept.

First impressions of Aqua Mekong

After a night in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s restless, rapidly evolving capital, I boarded the boat early the following afternoon. 

I knew the reputation going in, but reputation and reality are different things. This was firmly the latter. The ship feels less like a cruise vessel and more like a boutique hotel that happens to float: just over 60 metres long, with only 20 suites. Each a generous 30-plus square metres, with floor-to-ceiling windows or a private balcony to let in the views. On deck, a well-stocked bar, indoor and outdoor dining, a games room, and a plunge pool, which was especially inviting after long afternoons out exploring in the Cambodian sun.

But what I didn’t expect was just how much I’d learn about the river and the communities that live along it. Not in a lecture-heavy, worthy sort of way, but through small, everyday encounters that open up real life on the river; only possible with guides who know it well.

Each evening, the next day’s excursions were laid out (two in the morning, two in the afternoon), cycling, kayaking, guided walks, tuk-tuk tours. I managed to try them all, which says something about the pacing: enough to feel full, never overwhelming.

Between excursions, we returned to the boat by one of Aqua’s four private skiffs to freshen up and refuel with Khmer-style meals and refreshing drinks. Beyond the fantastic food, the views, and the outings, it was the smaller details of this cruise that won me over: shoes cleaned after every outing, laundry done daily. It sounds excessive until you’ve done two excursions in 30-degree heat! At which point it feels less like an indulgence and more like they’ve thought of everything.

Accessing communities along the Mekong you’d otherwise miss

Our first outing was to Koh Chen, a silversmith village just along the Tonlé Sap River. It’s the only place in Cambodia that produces silverware at scale, supplying everything from household items to pieces for the royal family. We were invited in to see artisans at work, handcrafting intricate plates, bowls, cutlery, and ornaments using techniques that haven’t really changed in generations. 

From there, we took to two wheels on good-quality mountain bikes, courtesy of Aqua Mekong, and set off on a leisurely ride down quiet dirt roads, past stilted houses and waving children, into the unhurried rhythm of rural riverside life. This behind-the-scenes glimpse gave the silversmith visit so much more context: seeing how they live, where they grew up, where they went to school, and where they learned their craft.

After a gourmet lunch back on board, we ventured further north for another bike ride (optional, though I was glad I went), to meet a local farming family. A young woman and her three children showed us how they work the land along the river, growing rice alongside lotus plants. I’d never thought much about lotus beyond how it looks, but here it’s practical: the seeds are roasted and eaten, the stems stripped and used for weaving. It grows in water and alternates with rice by season, making it a natural complement to the paddies around it. Without our guide, we’d have cycled straight past and I’d have known nothing of it. 

It’s this sort of detail that makes the landscape feel lived-in rather than just scenic.

Over the next couple of days, as we continued upriver, these encounters kept coming; each one adding another layer to the river and the communities built around it. 

We journeyed through the town of Kampong Chhnang and visited a family home where they make clay pots by hand. The artisan, a cheerful woman in her early thirties, demonstrated how to shape clay without a potter’s wheel making it look entirely effortless. I can confirm, having tried, that it is not.

Another afternoon, kayaking along a stretch of the river, we passed a cluster of modest, newly built stilt houses. Our guide explained their story. The families living there were Vietnamese, economic migrants who had spent nearly 40 years living on the water after finding no refuge in Vietnam and no right to stay anywhere else.

Known as ‘boat people’, they’d settled on the Cambodian Mekong in makeshift floating homes with no access to schools or healthcare. Only recently has the Cambodian government recognised them, issuing national IDs and allocating land, giving them a fixed address and access to services, and the possibility of building their own businesses. Without that context, they’d just be another passing scene.

My final reflections

Looking back, the biggest surprise wasn’t the level of comfort, or even the scenery. It was the depth of immersion I felt.

Seeing Cambodia from the river itself, with brilliant guides who take you beyond the banks and into the heart of the communities along it, offers a perspective that’s genuinely irreplaceable.

And for someone who wasn’t interested in cruises to begin with, that’s saying quite a lot.

FEELING INSPIRED TO GO?

Explore our Mekong River Journeys or other ETG Cambodia trips, then talk to our specialists.

Feel free to get in touch or call us.

This post was written by Susan Vernon, a seasoned solo Experience Travel Group traveller.

Travel is strange: all you have to do is board an airplane, sit there for however many hours and then, miraculously, you are somewhere – bewilderingly but most of all excitingly – completely and utterly different. And what’s more, everything that assails your senses as you walk out of the airport – the sights, sounds, smells – is happening all of the time. That is the essence of travel, to connect, to learn and always to reflect.

But I write glibly of boarding an aircraft. I always manage to, but as the plane is trundling down the runway, I am suppressing fear and a voice in my head is saying: “Susan, why are you doing this? No-one asked you to come.” But then we land, and I walk out of the airport, I know instantly why I’ve made the trip.

My first encounter with Experience Travel Group was with Sara who planned my journey around Sri Lanka with my chauffeur-guide Sudarshan. When I told friends that there would be just me, a driver, a vehicle and a plan, they would ask, “But you’ll join the group when you get there?” No, no group, just me. And if I’m honest, the thought of there being ‘just me’ in the vehicle was a little disconcerting. How would I make conversation? Would we get on?

But it turned out to be the most wonderful privilege. I learned so much about Sudarshan’s culture, his family, his religion and the island’s history. I cried when I walked out of Bandaranaike International Airport to find him waiting for me – the first part of the plan had worked – and I cried when he left me at Aditya Resort, prior to my journey home. But in between, I had a very special adventure, with such poignant lessons – like the little girl I encountered on a farm walk in Central Province, sitting on a bench with her toy bear, beside a tree against which a homemade ladder was propped, the family’ escape route should elephants come charging out of the jungle nearby. The poverty of that farming community was humbling and the image of that little girl has never left me.

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Historical connections move me, too – the day we visited the tea plantation, also in Central Province, and the Kandy War Cemetery. The railway station at Eliya with its rows of geraniums in pots, so British, and the nostalgia evoked by the view across the railway lines to the 1950’s rolling stock. But this wasn’t Britain before Dr Beeching, this was Sri Lanka and the very personal connection across the years moved me to tears.

Next another adventure planned by Sara to Wellington in South India, where my grandparents, my mother and her sister lived from 1920 until 1930 when my grandfather, a Scripture Reader in the British Army, was stationed at the barracks. Gaining access to the barracks, now the headquarters of the Madras Regiment, was not without its tensions, as (quite properly) security was paramount. However, with the help of Julius, a specialist in historical guiding, I can say that I have stood on the parade ground where my grandfather marched and stood on the railway platform where our little family arrived with their trunks from Calcutta (Kolkata) after a voyage which had taken three months. I still have the trunks.

The start of Susan’s family history trail in South India.

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It was in Cochin in South India that I met Mary, the guide with whom I toured her home city, mostly on foot, visiting the Chinese fishermen, her church and most memorably, a laundry where men were pressing shirts with irons filled with red hot coals. And it was from Mary and Rony John, my driver, that I learned about local family life; when asked how his wife and mother got on, Rony John replied: “Imagine India and Pakistan, Ma’am”. Many times since, I have smiled remembering his words and reflecting that, for all our differences in culture, we are connected by human nature.

Next, I embarked on another adventure. Once again, it was the history that drew me in – the visit to the Battlebox on my first morning in Singapore, an underground bunker where Great Britain surrendered to Japan on February 15th, 1942 during WW2 was very moving, especially when I learned that so many of the men captured in Singapore were imprisoned and forced to work on the Death Railway. And from the incongruous luxury of the Eastern and Oriental Express (a memorable story in itself) I visited the War Graves Commission Cemetery at Kanchanaburi, a beautiful place, the names on the headstones and the inscriptions, poignant reminders of those who never came home.

Travelling alone, with only my guides for company, allows conversations to develop and from these, whilst visiting Buddhist Temples, I learned so much about beliefs, prayers and offerings to the monks. A very special moment was an early morning visit to a market in Chiang Mai to buy food to give to the monks who came into the street to receive their daily supplies and give a blessing in return.

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So next time I’m moving down the runway at Heathrow and asking myself, “Susan, what are you doing here? No-one asked you to come”, or when turbulence threatens and I think, “Next time, go to Cornwall!”, I must remember the joy of stepping out of the airport, knowing that what I see, hear and smell is happening all of the time and now, I am here – and I cannot believe it.

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WHY DO YOU TRAVEL?

 For holiday inspiration, take a look at the Experience Travel Group website.

To talk about your own life-changing adventure, give us a call on 020 7924 7133 or click here to start your journey.

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Travel has always lived alongside uncertainty.

Travel is sometimes called the industry of human happiness, which is true in many ways. But part of the privilege of working in travel is accepting that, from time to time, situations arise that disrupt people’s plans and require calm judgement and swift action.

The recent conflict involving Iran is one such situation.

Before anything else, it is important to acknowledge that travel disruption is a very small concern compared with the human cost of war. Our thoughts are with those directly affected, including the families who lost daughters in the awful attack on the school on the first day of the conflict, and all the other innocent victims caught up in events.

Our responsibility, however, is to look after the travellers who have trusted us with their plans.

The moment it became clear that the situation had escalated, particularly when strikes affected key aviation hubs such as Dubai and Qatar, we moved to a heightened internal alert. At the time, we had clients in Doha, as well as travellers in Sri Lanka, Nepal and Thailand whose routes home were suddenly uncertain.

What followed was a long and demanding week for the crisis team.

Working closely with airlines and our trade partners, monitoring developments constantly, and spending many hours reworking flight options, we were able to reroute most clients and keep their holidays intact. Those already travelling were able to continue their trips and, importantly, everyone has now returned home safely.

In some cases, this required alternative routes, additional hotel nights and considerable behind-the-scenes coordination. We absorbed many of those costs ourselves and offered full cancellation options for clients who were unable to travel.

One of the reassuring aspects of moments like this is seeing how the specialist travel community works together. As members of AITO, The Specialist Travel Association, we were in constant contact with fellow operators, sharing information and, in some cases, collaborating on solutions such as charter flights. It is a part of the industry that understands the importance of properly looking after travellers.

I should also acknowledge the extraordinary work of our own team. Melissa, our co-founder and Product Director, has been navigating crises like this since the aftermath of 9/11, through the Icelandic ash cloud, the Sri Lankan Easter attacks and the complexities of the Covid years. Alongside colleagues including Nick, Alex and James, she helped ensure that every traveller was accounted for and supported.

Beyond business, travel matters deeply to us. We believe that expanding horizons, forging connections and giving people access to some of the most generous, interesting and life-expanding experiences in the world matters now more than ever.

The natural question, of course, is where things stand now.

At present, travel across South and Southeast Asia continues to operate normally, and our clients currently travelling in the region, including those in Oman over the past week, are enjoying their trips very much. Where airline routes have changed, we have successfully rebooked travellers onto alternative carriers such as SriLankan Airlines, Air India, British Airways, Turkish Airlines and Thai Airways.

For those considering travel in the months ahead, we understand that people may prefer a little flexibility while the situation evolves. For that reason, we are offering lower, temporarily fully refundable deposits on new bookings and, as always, if official government advice were to change in a way that affected travel, we would of course refund in full.

In other words, thoughtful travel planning remains entirely possible.

Finally, I would like to thank our clients for their patience and understanding while we worked through the disruption. Travelling to Asia is often the most significant holiday people take in a year, sometimes the most important journey they have been planning for a long time.

We never forget that responsibility.

If you are considering travel to Asia in the months ahead and would simply like to talk through the current situation, our team is always happy to offer honest advice. Sometimes a short conversation is the easiest way to understand what is possible and what might make sense for you.

Thank you for placing that trust in us.

I recently had the very fortuitous chance to experience South India’s raucous Pulikali (‘Tiger Dance’) festival. Held in the city of Thrissur (or Trishur) every year, Pulikali is a folk festival timed to coincide with the fourth day of the broader Onam (harvest) festival which is celebrated in different ways throughout Kerala.

Said to be over two thousand years old, Pulikali is thought to have been instigated by ancient local monarchs who were able to forge the city’s rich cultural heritage into what is essentially a riotous make-up and dance competition.

Experience Travel Group‘s dynamo Kerala partner, Sinna had called me when he finally had confirmed dates for the festival and urged me to jump on a plane from Sri Lanka solely to catch this very unique gathering.

Having experienced many of Kerala’s vibrant religious and cultural festivals over the years I had been trying without success to feast my eyes and ears on the legend that is Pulikali. Needless to say, it was well worth the wait.

Even amongst India’s myriad of colourful and noisy outpourings, its carnival-like atmosphere is truly unforgettable.

Trishur is considered to be Kerala’s cultural and artistic capital and Pulikali taps into this creative energy on a truly epic scale.

My guide par excellence Sinna talked me through the rituals and routines of the event. We followed a specific troupe from the beginning of the day as they prepared their make up and costumes, to the culmination of the vast procession of mesmerising dance, drums, performance and pomp around the city centre’s Swaraj Round; a giant ring road flanked by bustling shops, markets, food stalls and hotels.

The basic premise of the performance is a dance of cat and mouse between a hunter and his prey; the tiger. This is the hook that facilitates elaborate costumes and, particularly, incredibly intricate, full-body make-up.

Performers are separated into troupes, with preparations starting at dawn. Families, friends and volunteers congregate to share the laborious and time-consuming work of creating a pack of tigers from nothing. Performers stand with their arms supported by poles while they are given layer upon layer of paint. Painstakingly, they have to wait while each layer of paint dries before more can be applied. The end result is nothing short of spectacular.

In the late afternoon the various troupes start their marches through the windy roads that lead to Swaraj Round. Before marching, the troupes are introduced to their own communities, emerging one by one into a circle as the rhythmic and up-tempo rhythms reach deafening levels and the performers start to really get into character before the troupe spills out onto the street.

Lead by drummers and musicians playing traditional instruments such at the Chenda, Thakil and Udukku, the troupe then moves into the streets. Each tiger is also adorned with a large belt with bells that add to the cacophony of sound.

When the troupes reach the Round, they are joined by large and ornately decorated floats depicting folk myths and legends. The performers then circle the vast ring road as onlookers clamber from all available spaces, street level and above, to catch a glimpse of this mesmerising spectacle.

As Pulikali is also a competition, judges watch closely as each troupe performs, assessing the artistry of the body paint and their dancing. By the end of the evening, one troupe is crowned the winner.

Pulikali is open to all and usually takes place in late August or early September.

It’s a joyful slice of Kerala life that few international visitors ever witness. For travellers curious to see a different side of South India, this is exactly the kind of rare event we love to build into an ETG adventure.