Not sure which foam attic insulation to choose… open- or closed-cell? One builder is using both and saving money in the process. To understand the reasoning behind his decision, let’s begin with the benefits of a sealed, foam-insulated attic and move onto the open / closed-cell argument. There are several benefits to a sealed, foam-insulated attic:

* Energy Efficiency: Estimates as high as a 50% energy savings have been noted by incorporating a sealed, foam-insulated attic into a tightly built residential structure. The normal vented attic, with traditional blow-in or batt insulation on the floor, can easily reach temperatures of 140 degrees in the summer and freezing temperatures in the winter.

Because a foam-insulated, sealed attic maintains a temperature of only about 10 degrees difference from the conditioned living space, the entire home maintains a more even temperature. In addition, HVAC equipment and duct systems can be housed in semi-conditioned attic space – a much more energy-efficient scenario. A better insulated house and an HVAC system operating more efficiently are big contributors to energy savings. Further savings are achieved through the use of a smaller sized (tonnage) air handler. Because an efficient HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard, the size of the air handler MUST be reduced accordingly.

Three inch layer of open-cell foam covering 1 inch of closed-cell

* Added strength: According to testing performed by the University of Florida, a 3 inch layer of closed-cell foam provides nearly a 300% increase in roof uplift resistance compared to traditional framing methods. See Green Builder Magazine, page 47, for more information on the testing methods and results,

* Home Insurance Discount: Your insurance company may offer a discount for the use of closed-cell foam in the attic, particularly if you are located in a hurricane-prone area of the country. According to one of the foam companies in my area (central Florida), it is best to contact the insurance company headquarters, as opposed to your local representative, to inquire about the discount.

* Reduction in Critter Intrusion: Because ridge or off-ridge vents and vented soffits are eliminated in a sealed attic, the opportunity for invasion by unwanted furry guests is significantly reduced. If you live in any of the states that deal with drywood termites, a sealed attic also impedes infestation by these flying pests. See my article entitled, Is Your Brand New Roof an Invitation to Furry Guests, Detailed Solutions Ezine Archives.

The Closed-Cell / Open-Cell Argument: When discussing foam insulation, you will hear the terms “open-cell” or “closed-cell.” Here’s a brief description of the differences:

* Closed-Cell Foam: Because closed-cell foam insulation is rigid and dense (1.7–2.0 pounds per cubic foot), it acts like glue, which adds strength to the structure. Because it is watertight, it provides a vapor barrier in addition to a thermal and air barrier. Some builders prefer this product because a roof leak is encapsulated in the foam. The concept here is that the roof decking will be damaged but the leak won’t find its way into the home. Closed-cell foam is generally more expensive than open-cell.

* Open-Cell Foam: The fans of open-cell insulation prefer this product because the source of a leak can be more easily determined. Because open-cell is not a vapor barrier, water runs through it. Open-cell is softer, less dense (1/2 pound per cubic foot), and more permeable. It also has a greater ability to contract and expand with the decking. You’ll hear arguments for both types. The bottom line is that each has desirable properties and each is used successfully in a variety of applications across the country.

Combining the Best of Both Worlds: One of the homes I’m green certifying is actually incorporating both open- and closed-cell foams into the attic. The builder has achieved the best of both worlds and saved money in the process. First, the attic was sprayed with 1 inch of closed-cell (providing a vapor barrier and added strength to the roof) and then topped with a 3 1/2 inch layer of open-cell foam. This combo was less expensive by about 50 cents per square foot than using a 3 1/2 inch layer of closed-cell alone. This savings is not always the case. Check with your supplier on pricing.

Should open-cell foam have been used by itself, a 5 1/2 inch layer would have been needed to achieve the required air barrier.  Exclusive use of closed-cell foam would have required a thickness of 3 1/2 inches. Icynene was the foam used in this house.The thickness needed to form an air barrier varies between foam insulation products.

As always, The Difference is in The Details.

Here are a couple areas of your home that can easily become energy-wasting “holes” simply because of construction timing. Here’s where and why:

Why is it common for the exterior wall behind the tub to never see insulation or drywall? Because bathtubs are installed before these two products are needed in the rest of the house. As you can see from the picture on the left, there is no way to install insulation and drywall once the tub is in place. The thermal image taken in the winter on the left shows the result of this common practice. The purple color indicates cold air. The homeowners are going to wonder why their bathroom is so chilly in the winter.

Courtesy of Energy Star

The exterior wall behind a fireplace can also be left out of the insulation picture. The photo on the left  below shows how an air barrier (drywall) has been installed over insulation behind this corner fireplace. The rest of the house is not ready for insulation or drywall but this builder’s schedule included a separate timetable for the installation of of these two products behind tubs and fireplaces.

The thermal image on the right, taken in the winter, shows the result of an uninsulated exterior wall behind the fireplace.  The purple indicates a temperature in the 50′s compared to the warm insulated walls on either side of the fireplace. Can you see why missing insulation is like having a hole in your home? I wouldn’t want to pay the energy bills for this house.

Courtesy of Building Science Corp and Energy Star

Fortunately you can avoid insulation “holes” in your new home by including an insulation inspection during the construction process. The building code in your state may require an insulation inspection but remember the inspectors are only empowered to enforce the code requirements. Building code is the lowest level of construction acceptable in your area.

Thorough and proper installation of insulation is a requirement of an Energy Star-certified home via their Thermal Enclosure Inspection. Green-certified homes can also include an insulation assessment. These programs are designed to exceed building code requirements.

Not building a green- or Energy Star-certified home. No worries, a Thermal Enclosure Inspection is available to anyone building or remodeling. This process is performed by a HERS (Home Energy Rating System) Rater. You can find a list of HERS Raters in your state through the Energy Star Site.

Let your builder know that you’d like to include a Thermal Enclosure Inspection so that he/she can add it to their cost and the construction schedule. Because the examples of overlooked insulation discussed in this blog are just two of many insulation and sealing requirements included in the Thermal Enclosure Inspection, your builder will want to review both the checklist and the pictorial guidebook explaining the details. Both can be accessed on the Energy Star Site.

I bet you never considered drywall to be a potentially toxic product until the Chinese drywall problem raised its ugly head back in 2008. Unfortunately, we’re still not out of the woods for drywall made here or in China. Even today, gypsum board can contain mercury and formaldehyde that in turn off gases into your home.

Mercury Content in Drywall: In 2009 the EPA tested drywall products from both China and the US.  Some showed very low levels of 0.0668 to 0.562 parts per million and one American-made product contained a very high level of 2.08 ppm.

Courtesy of Magnum Building Products

The drywall with the highest mercury content was made from synthetic gypsum, which is created from a waste product of coal-burning plants.  Some green home certifications specify levels below a specified amount. For example, the Florida Green Building Coalition provides green points for using recycled content drywall throughout the house, if the Mercury levels in the drywall are less than 0.562 parts per million (ppm).

Formaldehyde in Drywall: Also in 2009, EPA testing did find formaldehyde in the core boards of American-made drywall products. The State of California tested gypsum drywall boards for formaldehyde emissions in 2003 and found products emitting more formaldehyde than was safe by the state’s standards. Lovely thought, isn’t it.

I’d like to say that improvements in drywall manufacturing have been made across the board since 2009 reducing or eliminating these toxins, but content still depends on the manufacturer.

In addition to its potentially toxic content, drywall is flammable, the paper coating provides a food for mold, moisture causes it to disintegrate and termites find it quite tasty. In spite of these properties, it has served us well for years.

Magnesium Board to the Rescue: However, we now have a better choice. What if I told you you could contribute to your home’s indoor air quality and durability by selecting a drywall that is completely non-toxic (no off gassing), impervious to moisture and pests, non-flammable and does not offer a food source for mold? I know this sounds too good to be true but it actually does exist and is known as magnesium oxide board.

This product has many uses but is a particularly good choice for showers. Unlike cement board, it has no degree of porousity and the screws can be countersunk.

The downside is cost. Right now it’s running about 3 times more than traditional drywall but obviously, there is no comparison. It is extremely popular for commercial use and in custom residential construction. It’s available in thicknesses ranging from 1/8 inch (easily contoured over curved surfaces) to ¾ inch.

In addition to drywall, the base magnesium product is made into exterior sheathing, soffit material, fascia and lap siding. Very interesting stuff. One manufacturer calls their product Magnum Board. Read more at, http://www.magnumbp.com/products/mb-applications.htm.

It’s true; most tile-lined showers are definitely not waterproof. Grout is porous and just a hairline crack can lead to major problems. These characteristics can be exacerbated or handled by what’s behind the tile. Here are a couple dos and don’ts for shower construction.

OOPS! Green board installed in the shower

Never use green board: If you’d like to tear out your new shower in just a few years and/or are particularly fond of mold, use green board. This is simply drywall with a moisture resistant paper coating. The coating is quite temporary and the paper provides food for mold; the perfect storm for disaster.

Some builders haven’t received the memo on the proper use of this product and I still, although rarely, see it installed in showers. As a matter of fact, I was surprised to see it lining the showers during a very recent green home inspection; hence, this blog.

Cement board-lined shower with sealed seams

Best building practice for a waterproof shower: One way to build a shower that’s designed to last is through the use of  cement board combined with an elastomeric waterproofing sealer. Cement board is comprised of cement and glass fibers. Several companies manufacture this product. For example, Durock, is made by USG and JamesHardie produces HardieBacker.

Cement board is a massive improvement over green board but it’s still porous to some degree. Coating the shower with an elastomeric waterproofing product seals the deal.

Of course, the seams are the most vulnerable areas for moisture intrusion regardless of the type of board installed behind the tile. The picture shows a cement board-lined shower where the seams and soap niche have been coated with a waterproofing sealer called RedGard. This is a good start but in order to make the shower as waterproof as possible, the walls, the floor and in some cases, the ceiling (not just the seams) should be coated as well.

Waterproofing sealer

RedGard is one example of an elastomeric waterproofing sealer and it’s currently available at Home Depot (usually in the tile section). It runs about $45.00 a gallon and is worth every penny.

If you’re building or remodeling, ask what type of products will be used to waterproof your shower. And steer clear of green board!

As always, The Difference is in the Details.

Some design problems are simply not easily detected on plans. Unfortunately, when they do become obvious, it can be difficult or too costly to make corrections. Here are a few I’ve photographed in newly constructed production model homes. Sadly, these errors will be duplicated again and again as carbon-copy homes are built.

Poorly located built-in ironing board

Awkward Built-in Ironing Board: All I can say about the picture to the right is…..seriously? Aside from the fact that the board is too close to the cabinet to easily iron anything, only left-handed people will feel semi-comfortable using it. No matter who is using this board, the door will always be in the way. Mounting the board at least 30 inches to the left of the cabinet could have prevented these problems and they had the room to do it.

When determining the location for a built-in ironing board, it’s important to take into account whether the person who does the majority of the ironing is left- or right-handed. You’ll want to be sure he or she has room to stand comfortably on the correct side. You’ll also want to specify on which side the door hinges. Most people prefer to iron on the side opposite the open door.

Remember that a built-in ironing board needs approximately 48 inches of unobstructed space in which to fold down.

Light fixture too close to ceiling

Light Fixture Faux Pas:How would like to attempt to change the bulbs in this fixture? With only three inches between the ceiling and the top of the globes, that’s going to be rather challenging, to say the least. Due to fire concerns, a light fixture this close to the ceiling is a building-code violation in some areas. Some light fixtures have the flexibility to be installed with the globes facing up or down. Hopefully this fixture falls into that category and simply turning it over will fix the problem.

Poorly located refrigerator

Refrigerator Door Dilemma:The wall next to the frig in this photo is never going to permit the freezer door to open far enough to allow adequate access. I’ve seen this same problem in higher end custom homes as well. Who knows how this awkward design is able to go from paper to reality without any of the professional team catching it, but it certainly does. Now the poor homeowner is going to have a hard time accessing the freezer portion of this side-by-side model, and forget about pulling the bins forward. In order to remove the bins for cleaning, the entire refrigerator will have to be pulled forward.

The wall will also become a victim suffering damage as the door bumps into it each time it’s opened. The fix: If a refrigerator will be located against a side wall, make sure the wall is shallow enough to allow the door to swing open fully.

Have you been the victim of poor design? Tell me your story!

As always, the difference is in the details!

Next time the flapper dies in one of your commodes, consider converting it to dual-flush. Why? First of all the conversion eliminates the flapper! If that’s not enough, consider the following:

HydroRight Dual Flush Converter

* The converter is inexpensive: We purchased the HydroRight™  Dual Flush Converter at Home Depot for $25.00.

* Saves money: Since the 1992, toilets were mandated to use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush (gpf). Recent technological advances have made it possible to manufacture commodes the perform seamlessly using less water per flush.

Dual-flush toilets use significantly less water for flushing liquids (usually 0.8 or 0.9 gpf) versus solids (usually remains at the normal 1.6 gpf). This converter does the same. Because the amount used to flush liquids is an adjustable feature,  the exact amount of water used per flush will vary. Since we flush liquids many more times than solids, HydroRight claims their dual-flush product reduces water usage by 30% and backs it up with third party testing.

* Reduces the load on the septic tank and drain field:Reducing the amount of water your septic system has to deal with is always a good thing. We don’t pay for water or sewage because our home is on well and septic, but avoiding expensive drain field issues for as long as possible is our motivation for installing this product.

Cutaway showing J tube at bottom of tank

* The converter stops sediment from forming in the bottom of the tank: The HyrdoRight converter includes what they call a J tube or cleaning tube that circulates water around the bottom of the toilet tank keeping sediment from forming.

* Earn green points if your aiming for a green certified remodeled home: I’ve certified green remodels where the homeowner replaced all by one commode. Because the  fixture was fairly new, converting it to dual-flush was the greenest option. I was working with two different certifying entities for these homes. After examining the statistics from HydroRight, both approved the product. The conversion kits were installed about six months ago and the homeowners have had no complaints.

The builder converted all of the commodes in his two-story home to dual-flush before recommending them to his clients. He was obviously very pleased. The homeowners are able to avoid the cost of replacing a recently purchased commode but still earn the green points while reaping the benefits of reduced water consumption. It’s a win-win-win situation for the builder, the homeowner and the environment. Can’t beat that!

* Installing the converter takes just a few minutes and does not require any tools: This is what the manufacture claims and we found it to be true. We discovered that it was necessary to adjust the blue float to accommodate flushing liquids. This YouTube video from HydroRight shows you exactly what to do, HydroRight Video .

* Saves a precious resource: As the population grows, so does the demand for water. According to our government, 36 states will be will be facing water shortages in the next two years. The more we conserve, the longer we can put off the inevitable cost increases and mandated conservation.

We have a ranch style home on a flat lot in Florida. All our toilets are Kohler, tank model number K-4620-DA purchased in 2003 (picture on the left). As part of the dual-flush conversion, the handle is replaced with a split button, as shown in the picture on the right. Push the top portion for liquids and the bottom half for solids. For more information visit, HydroRight.

Kohler toilet we converted to dual-flush and the new split button "handle"

Give it try and let me know how it goes.

My sisters and I converged in upstate New York this past spring to continue our family history research. One of the best aspects of our trip was our stay at an amazing bed and breakfast, http://www.wyndbourne.com/, run by an incredible couple. You’re probably asking what on Earth does this have to do with kitchen drawer organization. The kitchen in the bed and breakfast (a remodeled home originally built in the late 1700s) had the most amazing drawer systems I’ve ever seen. A combination of stock kitchen cabinets and custom drawers and drawer fronts is the owner’s secret to achieving this incredible use of space.

1) Drawers under the sink? You bet and what an impressive use of space! A little coordination with the plumber is necessary in order to make this work. The plumbing must be lined up from front to back and in this case, the homeowner’s also had to consider the location and size of the osmosis water treatment system – the two white tubular containers in the right of the photo. (Show these photos to your plumber prior to plumbing rough-in enlisting his/her help to achieve maximum drawer space.)

Under sink drawer designed around aligned plumbing and water treatment

The aligned plumbing results in minimal space being lost to the accommodating center notch in the top drawer, as shown in the photo below. By laying out exactly what they wanted to store in the drawers, the homeowner’s were able to achieve the perfect drawer divider spacing.

Top under sink drawer notched for plumbing

A center notch was not needed in the lower drawer, designed for additional cleaning supply storage.

Bottom under sink drawer

2) Tray Storage Drawer: Trays, cutting boards and cookie sheets, if considered at all during the kitchen design, are not commonly stored in the handiest places. Have you ever seen such accessible and ingenious storage for these items as provided by this oversized drawer? The location of this tall drawer resulted in the perfect height for the oven. Who wouldn’t love this!

Tall drawer for trays located under oven and interior tray drawer design

3) Amazing Lid Drawer: Everyone has pots and pans with lids but the vast majority of kitchen designs are void of lid storage. A simple design of wooden slats running from back to front in the drawer pictured here provides easy visual and manual access to an array of lids. Add this drawer to your wish list too!

Lid Storage Drawer

4) Ultimate Knife Drawer: What a wonderful use of space incorporating the best method for proper knife storage.

Ultimate Knife Drawer

NOTE: If you are combining stock cabinets with custom drawers, ask your drawer manufacturer about timing. Because exact measurements may need to be taken after the rest of the kitchen is installed, the drawers may lag behind.

What storage problems bug you about your current kitchen that you’d like to avoid in your new or remodeled kitchen? Pose the problem to a custom cabinet maker. He / she may come up with the perfect solution.

As always, the difference is in the details!

Part of green home construction involves respect for the land and reducing toxic storm water runoff. We can do our part by reducing the fertilizers and chemicals used on our turf and hard surfaces (like driveways and sidewalks).

Wet and Forget

For this reason I was intrigued by the Wet and Forget® product promoted as an easy and more natural method for removing mold from driveways and sidewalks. They advertise “Non-caustic. Non-acidic. No bleach. No pressure washing. No elbow grease.” Our normal method of driveway cleaning involves application of a Clorox solution which works but is toxic to the environment and the person doing the cleaning. That said, we decided to give the Wet and Forget product a shot on our very dirty concrete driveway and sidewalk.

Application of Wet and Forget: Our story begins on April 4, 2010. We mixed the product as instructed for removal of moss, mold, algae, and mildew – 1 part Wet and Forget to 5 parts water – and used garden pump sprayers to coat the driveway. Our house sits 60 feet back from the road and we needed to clean a sidewalk along with a semi-circular driveway and a driveway leading to a side-opening garage. This process took two people 2 ½ hours and consumed 5 ½ bottles of the product.

Results: According to Wet and Forget, their product can take several months to work and they aren’t kidding. We didn’t see any difference for approximately 4 months but we are STILL very pleased with the results. The “after” photos below show why. They were taken yesterday, August 28, 2011! We’re amazed at the residual characteristic of Wet and Forget. We deal with the humidity and large amount of rain that comes with living in Florida and a Clorox cleaning never hung in there this long. Click on the photos to enlarge.

Wet and Forget is not limited to cleaning concrete. According to their instructions, you’re good to go if your driveway is comprised of pavers or asphalt or just about any other product. Take a look at their website for a list of  where Wet and Forget can be used and for access to their store locator, www.wetandforget.com.

There are so many features you can incorporate into your new home or remodeling project to simplify daily living, and planning for pets is a perfect example. A little careful forethought during the design stage of your home will enhance harmonious living with your furry or feathered family members.

Have you thought about crate or cage storage, feeding location, food storage, sleeping quarters, bathing areas, and of course, the dreaded litter box location? The best place is a tucked away area that still provides easy access for both you and your kitties. Here are a couple ideas for out-of-way litter box locations.

Built-in litter box cabinet

Built-in Litter Box Placement: I came across this little ingenious idea during a recent green home inspection. The center panel of the bottom door of this laundry room cabinet is missing, allowing the cat to access the litter box. The interior of the cabinet was constructed using water resistant outdoor cabinetry material. The homeowner fashioned the actual litter box itself but cutting down one side of a standard see-through plastic storage container just enough to work as an entrance. She used duct tape to cover the potentially sharp raw edges. The remaining three extra tall sides keep litter in the box and the Vroom vacuum, built into the upper portion of the cabinet, makes it very easy to remove any litter that kitty tracks out of the box.

NOTE: Have the cabinet company give you the missing panel. If, at some point in the future your family no longer includes a cat, add the panel and the cabinet will be ready for normal storage.

What’s a Vroom Vacuum? The Vroom is a powerful new cleanup accessory that’s designed to complement and connect to your central vacuum system (or it can be purchased as a standalone unit.). The hose, which is available in lengths of up to 24 feet, retracts into the unit when not in use. Visit http://www.vroomyourroom.com/for more info.

Under-counter litter box placement

Under-Counter Litter Box Placement: Here’s a simpler idea for laundry room pet crate or litter box storage. An open area under the countertop, as pictured to the left, provides an out-of-the-way, yet accessible, location for either.

Outside Litter Box: Our cats don’t go outside but I like the idea of having the litter box outside. I know that doesn’t make much sense but here’s the deal. If you have indoor cats but also have a screened in porch or lanai, a pet door can provide a safe location for an outside litter box.

As always, the difference is in the details.

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Traditional electric storage tank water heaters represent one of the most energy-inefficient water heating choices. The water in the tank is continually being heated whether being used or not and potential water damage from eventual deterioration of the tank is always a possibility. But.. I have good news! Recent technological advances have made significant improvement in both these areas. Here’s a couple products to consider:

Marathon Super Insulated Hot Water Heater

Marathon® Super Insulated Electric Hot Water Heater: Before you select the typical electric storage tank version, take a look at the Marathon Water Heater. It offers high-efficiency and low operating cost losing only about 3 – 5 degrees F / day. This compares to an average daily loss of about 20 degrees for a traditional heater.

Another perk to this product is the warranty. The Marathon Tank is warranted not to leak for as long as you own your home. Marathon offers this no-leak promise because of its superior, non-metallic PermaGuard tank construction – a seamless blow molded polybutylene tank with a filament wound fiberglass outer tank for maximum strength. This heater will cost 2 to 3 times more than a traditional electric water heater. For more information and a list of suppliers, visit http://www.marathonheaters.com/index.html.

Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heaters– Heating Water Out of Thin Air: Hybrid water heating units such as the GE GeoSpring™ pictured here, combined the standard electric storage tank with heat pump technology.

GE GeoSpring Hybrid Hot Water Heater

Heat pumps have traditionally been used for space conditioning, but are now being used very effectively for water heating. As a matter of fact, Heat Pump Water Heaters (HPWHs) are generally two to three times more efficient than traditional electric-resistance water heaters. This means that a heat pump unit can produce the same amount of hot water as a standard electric unit for one-third the amount of electricity.

How do they work? In traditional storage tank hot water heaters, hot water leaves the top of the tank and ice cold water replaces it – and has to be heated from cold to hot. A HPWH extracts heat from the air around the tank and preheats the water, greatly reducing the fossil fuel energy required to heat the water to the specified temperature.

Because HPWHs take heat from the surrounding room air, they also cool and dehumidify a space. Although this is obviously a benefit during the cooling season, it’s a drawback during the heating season, which is why HPWHs work best in warm climates with high cooling needs. This phenomenon also means you need to take note of the size of the room in which the tank is located, making sure it is large enough to supply the amount of air specified by the manufacturer. For example, A.O. Smith’s product requires 750 cubic feet of air. In addition, hybrid HPWHs require a drain and may also require a condensate pump.

Height is another issue. The heat pump is located on top of the storage tank creating a tall unit. For instance, A.O. Smith’s 80 gallon hybrid product is 81 ½ inches tall.

The Energy Star-rated GE GeoSpring™ Hybrid Heat Pump Water Heater, pictured above, is one of the latest to hit the market. Based on electrical costs of about $.11/kilowatt, GE estimates that their unit saves about $320 dollars per year over a typical electric water heater.

For a list of Energy Star-qualified hybrid HPWHs, visit Energy Star-qualifed Heat Pump Water Heaters.