Toyota Offroad Resources

Meticulous Toyota Pickup Restoration

Thu, 23 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wow. Few people have the time or dedication required to do this sort of resoration project. And people that do usually choose to restore a Model T Ford or similar vintage car. This guy from the east coast chose an early 80's Toyota 4x4 Pickup. Part of his motivation could be that he is from the east coast and rust free parts for the 1st gen pickups are actually quite hard to find. Us West Coasters are spoiled in that way.

Here's all the pictures: http://passiontechnique.com/?mainarticleid=19

Before:

After:

Lambo Style Rear Tire Carrier

Mon, 06 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Seems most everyone these days is building a rear tire carrier for their Toyota Offroad 4x4 rig. It's a relatively simple addition to a tube bumper that can result in lots of extra storage space in or on top of your rig.

The most common method is to get a hold of a wheel spindle from a trailer supply store, weld that on to your bumped, and weld a tire mount on to the bearing carrier. This allows you to swing the tire out of the way allowing access to your tailgate and the junk you have stored in the rear of your Toyota.

A new spin on the idea is to mount the rotating spindle assembly in the vertical plane, so that the wheel doesn't spin out in a large arc (requiring nobody to be parked within 5 feet of you), but rather rotates up and off to the side.

Here's a YouTube video of it in action.

Trouble Removing Transmission

Mon, 15 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

A friend of mine was recently working on his 1990 Toyota 4Runner. He was removing the transmission to put a new clutch in. Once he got everything disconnected, and went to pull the tranny back out of the engine, the transmission moved about an inch and then wouldn't pull back any more.

He double, triple, quadruple checked that all of the bellhousing bolts, driveshafts, shift linkages etc were detached, and got a few guys under there to slam the transmission back and forth in an effort to free it from the engine. (Note: slamming it back and forth is really only safe when it's fully chained to a transmission jack, and even then it could still be risky if it broke free. this is just the disclaimer part in case some idiot injures himself due to my advice) Still nothing.

The best guess as to what was happening was that the pilot bearing (that centers the transmission input shaft in the flywheel) over time had sized onto the transmission input shaft, and it was getting caught on the clutch disc keeping the transmission from pulling back and free from the engine.

His last resort was to hack a hole in the side of the bellhousing (he of course has another one lined up) in order to access the necessary bolts to unbolt the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel so that it could be removed with the transmission.

Success!

Here's the post on Yotatech:
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/transmission-removal-woes-input-shaft-siezed-184161/

Narrowed Toyota Cab

Mon, 08 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

A common topic around the Pacific Northwest is making the smallest lightest offroad Toyota possible. That's mainly due to the overgrown and wooded trails in the area.

For those of us who don't want to drive a Suzuki with a Toyota drivetrain, there is another option! Check out this narrowed Toyota cab. Unfortunately there isn't any info on how the did it, but it sure looks like they did a good job. Rather than going to full width axles, they made the cab smaller so now it looks like a Toyota cab on full width axles.

Whipsaw Trail History Tidbit

Tue, 02 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

One of the famous hills on the Whipsaw trail in B.C., Canada, is Falcon Hill. It's name comes from a few guys who drove the trail in 1979 in a Ford Falcon. The only mods the Falcon apparently had were 33 inch studded snow tires, and they drove the whole trail.

I guess I shouldn't be too concerned about making it through the trail in my lifted, modified, and locked Toyota Pickup 4x4 on 31 inch tires?

There are more pictures here: http://www.bc4x4.com/features/2009/whipsaw-falcon/

Driveshaft Ujoint Replacement

Wed, 27 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

After driving around with the clunking and thunking on my Toyota Offroad rig for quite a while, I've decided to stop putting it off and replace the u-joints in my rear driveshaft. The question is whether or not I should do it myself.

I found some decent write-ups online, and here's some info I managed to gather:

If I have a vise that opens wide enough, it's an easy way to press out the bearings to remove the bearing caps. Otherwise, I can use a giant C-clamp, or last resort, a hammer!
I also need somewhere fairly sturdy to do the pounding on
Apparently you shouldn't just replace 1 u-joint in yout Toyota driveshaft at a time. If one is bad, it's put extra wear and tear on your other joint. If you replace the one, the other will probably be bad enough to replace in a short while, and then it will have caused the first one you replaced to have extra wear and tear putting you in a viscious cycle of replacing universal joints and spending money on your Offroad Toyota when you could be saving up for a dual transfer case setup!

And here are some pictorial writeups on how to do it yourself:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

Toyota Offroad 4x4 Transmissions

Sat, 23 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Over the years, Toyota went through a lot of different transmission and transfer case combinations. I've compiled some information to help when trying to decide what transmission and transfer case you can swap in or out of your Toyota Offroad Truck or 4Runner.

Here's a list of Toyota Transmission gear ratios including spline counts, chain or gear driven, top or forward shift and other misc info: http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/transmission/transmission-gear-ratio-chart

Pictures of the different Toyota transmissions from Marlin Crawler: http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/rebuilt-complete

Another listing of transmissions and there related specs. Also has a listing of Toyota Transfer Cases and Engines as well: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

Build Your Own Roof Top Cargo Rack

Mon, 18 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

On long off roading trips, the cargo space in my Toyota 4runner fills up fast, especially when going with a few friends. I started exploring different storage options, and came up that the coolest looking, strongest, most universal option for me was a roof mount cargo rack.

It doesn't take long looking around on Ebay at the different options to realize that you can spend a lot of money on a rack for your offroad Toyota. Then I did some searching on building your own rack, and came across this site.

http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/04cargo.html

This particular guy is building the rack for his kia, but what I like is that he just uses cheap plain old conduit for the metal. Total cost was about $30! You migh want to rethink his mounting system, as he uses hose clamps to mount it to his factory roof rack. I'm not sure you'd want to put a 60 pound spare tire on your roof rack if it's just held on with 4 hose clamps!

Toyota Leaf Spring Info

Tue, 12 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

My daily driver 4runner is getting pretty rusty. It's a 1990 Toyota 4runner and the rear wheel wells, bottom of the doors, and of course, the tailgate, are pretty sad looking. I've been contemplating upgrading my daily driver to a newer 4runner, which would free up my 1990 4runner for being the offroad vehicle.

I'm researching doing a solid axle swap, and was finally able to find some Toyota leaf spring measurements on Pirate4x4.com

79-85 Toyota front
Flat length = 45"
Front Half = 22.5"
Rear Half = 22.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 18mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID

79-83 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 48"
Front Half = 21.125"
Rear Half = 26.875"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 18mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID

84-88 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 48"
Front Half = 20.5"
Rear Half = 27.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 14mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID

89-95 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 51"
Front Half = 21.5"
Rear Half = 29.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 14mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID

Front Differential Drop Kit

Wed, 06 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

I know what you're thinking. Why would I use a drop kit? I have an offroad Toyota, not a low rider Toyota! Allow me to explain.

First, read the post on the ball-joint spacers for the 89-95 IFS Toyota Truck and 4runner.

The biggest problem with the ball joint spacers is the increased angle that the CV joints see. This translates into faster wear and even possibly binding in the joint itself. By lowering the front differential by the same amount as the spacers we put in, we lower the other end of the CV shafts as well, netting an overall angle change of 0, nothing, nill.

This of course moves your front driveshaft mounting position down an inch. The stock front driveshaft seems to handle this extra length with no related issues.

As usual, Roger Brown at 4Crawler has a front differential lowering kit, although from what I can tell it's just a few chunks of metal with a hole drilled through it and some longer bolts. If you think it's worth the $29 US then go here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

Ball Joint Spacers

Sun, 03 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

With the current recession and job loss at record highs, people (me included) are looking for more and more ways to save some money. One of the new products on the market is a ball joint spacer. For under a hundred dollars it can get you 1.5 inches of lift.

After disconnecting the top ball joint on your IFS Toyota, the spacer goes between the upper ball-joint and the top A-arm. Since the upper a-arm is held in place (relatively speaking) by the torsion bar, the spacer will push the steering knuckle, and of course your tire, down the same amount as the ball joint spacer. Voila. Cheap lift.

The only down side to this sort of lift is that the CV angles are increased slightly, and so are the steering arm and tie-rod angles. Just be sure to keep a close eye on all the joints so that you can avoid any surprise failures.

If you're keen on making your own Toyota parts, check out this link. He has a rough blueprint of the balljoint spacers:

http://tkoffroad.com/where-it-all-began/ball-joint-spacers-for-your-ifs-runner

Here's 4crawler's page that explains it in more detail:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml

Shock Guide

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Learn everything you wanted to know about shocks. This article from http://www.4wdsportandutitility.com/ covers shock types including monotube, remote reservoir, and coil over.

Ever wondered how to properly set up bump stops and limit straps on your Toyota 4x4? That's covered too. They even touch on shock fading, and tips on how to properly mount shocks taking clearance and performance into account.

http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0802_4wd_shock_guide/index.html

Differential and Pinion Skid Plate

Sat, 25 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We've talked about anti-wrap bars, and Toyota front axle gussets. Notice anything else about this picture? Besides the bright yellow bumpstops of course!

The front differential has a full skid plate that goes out far enough it protexts the driveshaft mount and pinion! It looks to me like it's a thick piece of plate steel bent to the same curve as the differential mounting flange.

The front axle side is mounted via welding to the axle housing, and the pinion end of it has a u-bolt that goes around the differential.

The real question: Is the skid plate strong enough to take the full weight of the Toyota it's helping to protect? Possibly. That at least would be a direct upward force. It looks from the picture that the differntial armor is also being used as a mounting point for the anti-wrap bar as well.

It's hard to tell if the unit has been trail tested. It still looks pretty shiny and there's no scratches on it....

Click here to view a larger version.

Formula Toyota

Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

If you've been around the Toyota Offroad community very long, you've probably heard of Formula Toy or F-Toy for short (also called Formula Toyota to help differentiate it from Formula 1 toys).

Formula Toy was originally conveived by 2 die hard Toyota off roading fans Eric "Camo" Linker and Mike "AirRide" Hendrix. The idea was to create an entry level rock crawler that would work well on difficult rock crawling trails as well as be able to compete in rock crawling events.

The whole class is built to ensure that rock crawling comes down to driver skill, not whoever has the most money to spend on a custom buggy will probably win. All competitors must use leaf spring axles and a stock Toyota Frame. From their, a cage built by an approved vendor is installed on the frame. If you already have a Toyota with modified gearing, lockers, lift kit, etc, just pull off the Toyota body, install a spec cage and you're in the class! Only down side is that you wouldn't be able to street drive your rig anymore (but some of us don't anyways).

The official Formula Toy site is http://www.formulatoy.org

Shaved, Trussed, Armored Axle Collection

Mon, 13 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

After all of this front axle strength talk, I figured this was appropriate. On Pirate4x4, the guys have created a thread called 'Shaved, Trussed, and Armored Axle Collection.' It brings together all sorts of Toyota Axles that guys have beefed up at home.

Please remember, just because it's been built before, doesn't make it a good idea. There are some pretty ugly, and not all that strong looking Toyota Axle trusses in here.

There's also some huge monstrosities that are built to protect the axle as well as the full hydraulic steering rams mounted on them.

Dull headlights getting you down?

Sun, 29 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

If you're driving an older Toyota Truck or 4runner, you've probably had to mess with replacing a sealed unit headlight. Somewhere around 1992, Toyota switched their headlight assembly from being sealed beam to a replaceable H4 style plug in bulb.

If you have the sealed beam style, it's a simple job to replace them with the H4 style. All you have to do is remove the sealed beam unit, bolt the H4 headlight assembly in place, and install the H4 bulb with the wattage and color of your choice.

You can either buy aftermarket pieces, or find some H4 headlight units from a newer 4runner or Toyota Truck (1992-1995) for a true plug-n-play swap.

Advantages: Faster replacement time should a bulb burn out, more options such as blue-ish tint, brighter

Can you tell which headlight in the picture above is brighter? The one on the left is the new H4 converted headlight.

Here's a write up on Keystone Krawlers:

http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods/Toyota/H4Lights/H4conversion.htm

Toyota Trailer

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

This looks like some sort of Toyota limo.

Toyota Solid Front Axle Truss

Thu, 19 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Ready for controversy? The top axle trusses provided by many offroad manufacturers are useless!

The front axle housing is fairly strong, but as we Toyota offroaders know, everything can always be stronger. That's why the later year (84 and 85) Toyota solid front axles are more sought after. They have more trussing then the older year axles.

However, what sort of force is seen in the center of the axle housing? If the ends of the housing aren't strong enough to transmit all force past the spring perches, then your axle trusses do nothing. See picture below for reference. The housing is bent outboard of the spring perches, leaving the center section of the housing untouched.

Marlin Crawler recently started producing an axle ball gusset kit for Toyota front axles. It is made to transmit the forces put on the knuckle through the knuckle mounting ball, through the axle housing, past the spring perch, and into the center section of the housing where all of your strong axle trussing is.

How necessary are these really? Well that depends on what you drive and how you drive. The bent housing on the left was done trying to jump some sand dunes. If you don't jump your truck, chances are you won't bend your housing. Just something to keep in mind next time you think about buying an axle truss to help strengthen your Toyota front axle.

Twin Stick Transfer Case Shifter

Mon, 16 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

One of the most annoying things when you're out on the trail is having to stop between obstacles to shift your Toytoa transfer case from low range up to high range, and then back down to low range at the next obstacle. I have to do this because I built my own square long travel driveshaft. It's as strong as stink, but even though I thought I was careful building it, I ended up with a pretty good wobble. I don't like going faster than about 15 mph in 4wd.

Because of this, a twin stick shifter has always been appealing to me. This allows you to shift in and out of 2wd and 4wd independantly from shifting between high range and low range. The obvious advantage for Toyota owner's like me is that I can flip it out of 4wd into 2wd inbewteen obstacles without having to stop to put it into high range.

Since I was cheap enough to build my own driveshaft and put up with wobble, don't expect that I'll pay the $149 required to get a commercially built twin-stick shifter from Trail Gear.

That's when I came across this post on Pirate4x4: Homebrew Twin Stick

He used a chunk of 3x2 suare tubing, used some 1/2 inch stock for the shifters, and used retired stock front shackles for the shift prongs!

Here's the post:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9568198

And for those who like to compare, here's the Trail Gear Twin Stick

Rebuilding Front Brake Caliper

Thu, 12 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

On the way home from an offroad trip in my Toyota, I noticed that 4runner brakes were squeeking. When I removed the brake calipers to replace the brake pads, I found that the passenger side pads were warn to the spring clips, and the driver's side pads had plenty left on them.

Just as everyone always says you should do, I decided to replace the pads in both sides at once. When it came time to push the pistons back into the drivers side calipers, I couldn't do it. 2 of the 4 pistons were siezed. I called the parts shop and got prices on a rebuilt caliper (much cheaper than a new caliper), and started thinking about trying to rebuild the Toyota brake caliper myself.

After searching diligently online, here is what I've found....basically nothing. Everyone who asks the question on an offroad or Toyota forum is quickly shut down. The common response is "Its your brakes. I prefer to pay the money for a rebuilt so that I know it will work. Plus it comes with a warranty." I've played around with plenty of other brake components on my Toyota 4x4, so why should I stop now?

And then I found this comment on the http://www.yotatech.com/ forum: "remember most toys have 4 piston fixed calipers so it might be a little more involved than rebuilding your typical 1 or 2 piston sliding caliper." Ah, I hadn't thought of that.

All of the 'How to rebuild a brake caliper' videos and tutorials I found online are showing floating calipers with one or 2 pistons on only one side of the caliper.

Replacing the seals on a brake caliper in a lexus (the closest I could find to Toyota)http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

2 piston caliper rebuild:
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_pages/donations/brake_caliper_rebuild.htm

Here's a good video showing how to use compressed air to pop the calipers out of the piston:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EIVWoYy0ug

Like a good little offroad Toyota owner, I went out and bought a rebuilt caliper. You can buy them online from MarlinCrawler.com and Trail-Gear.com

Diff Armor

Fri, 06 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Here's a nice example of an 8 inch weld-on pipe cap being used as differential armor on a Toyota 8inch axle.

The thread talks about how it can be hard to find a pipe cap. This place has them: http://www.mcmaster.com/
Enter this in the search box. Part #:43425K246

The post was made in 2003, and it states the price was $18.99. Now the price is $50!!!! This is the classic case of tons of Toyota guys buying something so the price goes up. The same thing happened to the Nissan threaded nipple that Toyota enthusiasts started buying in bulk to screw into their axles to hook up differential breather hoses to.

If you can find a pipe cap for a good price, it's definitely worth it. It's simple and effective.

Just slice it in half, grind a little bit off the inner ledge to provide a good fit.
Make some sort of hole on the bottom side of it to drain out dirt, water, and fluid that spills when you're trying to get it in the fill hole.
Make sure you have access to the differential fill hole.
In the case above, he added some more support that continues up to the top of the differential to protect the ring gear all the way to the top.
Weld it on! Go slow, and let it cool inbetween welds to avoid warping the housing. Leave the differential in/on so that it can help hold it straight, and leave the differential fluid in the axle so that it can help dissipate heat.
Go out and intentionally run your axle into rocks just to test it!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3760

Differential Armor

Tue, 03 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

As seen in the picture on the left, the Toyota axle housing is made from thick strong steel. The differential housing, however, is made from much thinner material... probably because there is no weight bearing stresses placed on this section of the axle.

When on the trail, this section is particularily exposed. It's one of the lowest, if not even the lowest part of the vehicle besides the tires! When driving forward, the front differential is susceptible to hitting things, and when reversing it's the rear differentials turn.

If you happen to dent a Toyota differential housing on a rock or other obstacle, it can push the steel into the ring gear. If it doesn't instantly destroy the ring gear (and in turn your expensive locker as well), it soon will. The ring gear will grind against the differential cover until a whole is made and all of your axle fluid runs out. We know where this is going!

Over the years people have come up with different ideas to protect this area. If you're going with hydraulic steering on your Toyota, the brackets and gussets for protecting and mounting your hydraulic cylinder will ofter protect the differential area. If you're like the rest of us, you have normal steering or hi-steer, and the area remains exposed.

The low budget, do it yourself version is to find an 8 inch steel pipe cap (it's a half circle /dome shape). Cut it in half, cut a whole at the bottom for draining out mud and water, and enjoy. If you can't find one, or don't want the trouble or like the look, here are some commercial options:

Marlin Crawler Differential Armor:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/differential-armor

Trail Gear Small and Large Differential Armor (read cheap and expensive):
http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-armor.html

4wd.com Option:
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=0&partID=41468&plID=0

Sky Manufacturing:
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=78

Full Floating Rear Axle

Fri, 27 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

If you've been around the Toyota 4x4 scene on the internet long enough, you've no doubt come across the term 'full floater rear axle'.

A full floater axle simply means that the axle is fully floating inside the axle tube. Normally, and specifically in a Toyota rear axle, the axle shaft has the hub attached to it, and the axle rides on the bearing at the end of the axle tube. The axle shaft has to support the weight of the vehicle, as well as transmit the torsional load out to the wheel.

In a full floating axle, like the Toyota front solid axles, the axle JUST turns the wheel, and the wheel itself supports the load of the vehicle. This makes for a stronger assembly as the axle shaft only needs to transmit torque, not bear weight too.

For more information on full floater and semi floater axles, have a read here:

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0112or_semi_floating_and_full_floating_axles/index.html

Front Range Off Road (and apparently others, although I was unable to find any info on them) sells a kit that converts the rear axle from semi-floating to full-floating.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=94&osCsid=4c28205095f79a16b383759fb23959fb

Here is an install writeup of the Front Range Off Road kit by 4Wheel Offroad:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/toyota/131_0307_toyota_axle_brake_install/index.html

4runner Rear Cargo Drawers and Box

Tue, 24 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

For anyone owning a Toyota 4-runner, you know how cool it is to have clean dry storage for camping gear in the back. It would also be nice to be able to sleep in that clean dry area.... but then where would you put your camping gear? I have transferred all of the camping supply junk to the front seats to free up the cargo area for sleeping, but that isn't ideal. The only other option is to get some sort of external storage compartment (probably roof mounted), or build something to better utilize the rear storage area of the Toyota 4runner.

Skyrat had a similar problem, and came up with a slick solution. He used plywood and indoor/ourdoor carpet to accomplish two tasks: the drawers are a good place to store smaller items that would normally fly around the 4runner's cargo area, and the sleeping platform on top of the drawers is above the wheel wells making the sleeping area substantially wider.

Skyrat uses heavy duty full extension drawer slides, and has some well thought out features such as tie downs on the sleeping platform, adjustable dividers in the drawers, and a removeable extension depending on whether or not you need to use the back seat.

Check out this post on Yotatech.com for more detailed drawings and photos.

http://yotatech.com/f129/skyrat-s-rear-cargo-box-sleeping-platform-3rd-gen-4runner-76673/

Removing your 1st Gen Toyota 4runner Top

Fri, 20 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

As everyone knows, one of the big advantages of the first generation Toyota 4runner is the removeable hardtop. There's nothing like feeling the wind in your hair when driving to your next wheeling spot! In order to ge tthe wind in your hair feeling, you have to first remove the top. That can be quite a challenge.

A guy on this forum says he can do it by himself because he eats Wheaties, and another guy says it's heavy enough to break a wrist.... estimated weight of the 4runner top is 150-200 pounds.

http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suv-s-trucks/23716-how-much-does-4runner-hard-top-weigh.html

Another option would be to purchase a commercial hoist for removing hardtops. This one apparently works to remove jeep, blazer, bronco and 4runner hardtops. It's called hoist-a-top, and cost a few hundred dollars ack!

http://www.truckstuffusa.com/hoistatop.html

Roger brown has rigged up a much cheaper system of straps and hooks from his rafters, and he can remove the top by himself. He lifts one end of it at a time to slip the straps underneath it, and then lifts one end about 6 inches, then does the other 6 inches to level it, and continues until the 4-runner hardtop hits the rafters.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#TopStorage

The last option is to ditch the 4runner fiberglass top all together, and either run without a top, or a canvas topper of some sort.

Toyota How To - Build A Canvas Topper

Low Budget Cross Member

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

One of the benefits of a Toyota 4x4 in stock form is that is has some of the best clearance available on a stock platform. After modifying a truck, it doesn't take long until you wish you have even more clearance.

The lowest hanging part under the belly of a truck is the transfer case crossmember. There are tons of aftermarket crossmembers for Toyota Trucks and 4runners, but if you don't want to spend much money or time, here's an interesting idea.

Take the stock Toyota transfer case crossmember, cut it down the seam between the top and bottom pieces, and weld on a big chunk of 1/4 inch plate steel. It seems so simple I'm surprised I haven't seen it on a Toyota before.

There are a few possible issues with this design: They've removed the bolt and welded the transfer case mount to the crossmember because the bolts would stick out the bottom. If you don't plan on replacing it soon (or ever) then this is a good easy method. This crossmember also has no gussets for downward and upward strength. A 1/4 inch plate mounted flat is all that needs to bend and your transfer case will be dragging in the dirt. Someone in the forum has mentioned that, so I imagine they'll be adding a gusset of some sort soon.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=758106

Toyota Snow Wheeling Videos

Thu, 12 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

What better thing to do on a cold day then watch videos of other people snow wheeling in their trucks? Whenever I need motivation to get wrenching on my Toyota 4x4, I just watch youtube videos of other people having fun. It's a good way to remind myself of things I need to fix/do on my Toyota... add a rear traction bar to fight axle wrap being the main one.

Gear Break-In Procedure

Fri, 06 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Toyota differentials are no different than other vehicles... in regards to there care and maintenance. If you've just bought a locker or changed the gear ratio in your Toyota differential, you'll want to pay close attention to how you drive it for the first few hundred miles.

Big Mike from Marlin Crawler outlines the basics when it comes to breaking in your new diff.

Most importantly of course is making sure that you have fluid in your differential. If it's the right type of fluid, that's even better. Toyota differentials do well with a 80w-90 gear oil mixture. Depending on how much you paid for your gear or locker and how much it cost to get them installed will usually dictate what brand of gear oil you will buy.

When I bought a $200 automatic locker and installed it myself, I used Wal-mart gear oil. If you pay $1000 plus for an electric or air locker, and get a $200 set of gears, you'll probably want to use something like Penzoil or similar name brand.

Here is Big Mike's list of do's and dont's:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/differential-break-and-care-information

Modify Hinges for Quick Release

Tue, 03 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

I finally found a post on modifying your door hinges so that you can quickly swap to your half doors, or remove your Toyota doors all together!

The picture on the left shows the door side of the modified Toyota door hinges. He leaves the bottom bolt out, and just uses the top bolt.

The top hinge bolt hole (on the door side of the hinge, not the truck side) is modified into a slot. When the top bolt in both hinges is loosened a few turns, the whole door can be lifted up off the hinges.

If you have set of half-doors for your Toyota, just put the top hinge bolts most of the way into the doors, and then lower the doors into the slots. Tighten the bolts, and you're done!

This thread also discusses the other method of drilling out the door hinge pin, and replacing it with a quick release pull out latch.

And another method for building your own Toyota quick release door hinges, is to drill out the hinge bolt. Replace the hinge bolt with a longer bolt that sticks out the bottom about a half inch. This allows you to lower the whole door onto the truck side of the hinge. Gravity keeps the hinges in place.

Warning: The main problem with this style of hinge is that if you have to open the door in anything but a truck-upright position, the door will fall off the hinges. Just keep that in mind next time you're crawling out of your rolled over Toyota 4x4. Nothing like dropping a door on your head to add insult to injury!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=461384&highlight=door+hinge

Quick Release Door Hinges

Wed, 28 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Anyone who has been interested in building a set of half doors for their Toyota has probably thought about a fast way of removing the original Toyota doors and attaching the half doors for a wheeling trip.

Especially over here on the wet coast, this is a neccesity. If your vehicle is your daily driver, you definitely want your full Toyota doors back on during the spring and winter months.

After much searching, I haven't been able to find a decent write up on making Toyota quick release door hinges. I did find some comments on Pirate4x4.com and I hope to use those to build my own. Then I'll post the write up here.

If you're in the market to buy a set of slick hinges, check out 4xInnovations Toyota quick release door hinges:

http://4xinnovations.com/pages/guarding/hingekit.htm

Toyota Trekker Build

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

I just posted about the Toyota Trekker, and then today I cam across a build thread for a Toyota Trekker. This guy is located in Penticton, BC, and is doing a meticulous restoration/modification of a Toyota Trekker.

Here's the link to the Toyota Trekker build thread on BC 4x4:
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=121852

Toyota Trekker

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The Toyota Trekker is as elusive as the sasquatch or Loch Ness monster! The Trekker was a pre-cursor to the 4-runner.

It consisted of a 1981-1983 Toyota Pickup Truck with a fiberglass canopy screwed to the body, and sealed to be watertight. It was not removeable like the first generation 4runner tops. There was also a small bench seat in the back, and the rear area (what used ot be the box) was carpeted.

When searching online for info, all that came up was a few for sale ads for a trekker, and this Wikipedia entry that is 2 sentences long.

"The Toyota Trekker was a hybrid truck-and sport utility vehicle that shared the same components of the Toyota Hilux. The truck was equipped with a rear bench seat and a camper shell. The Trekker was replaced in 1984 by the Toyota 4Runner, another variant of the Hilux. Other variants were sold as the Toyota TrailBlazer and the Toyota Winnebago." source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Trekker

Toyota Winnebago only turns up huge ugly results like this one:

Mounting A HiLift Jack

Sun, 04 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

If you drive a lifted Toyota Truck or 4runner, chances are you have a Hi-Lift jack (which is actually a brand name of a farm jack). They allow you to lift the truck much higher than the scissor jack or bottle jack that came with your vehicle.

However, after you've purcased a hi lift jack and tested it out, you'll realize that in order to take it with you on the trail you'll need to put it somewhere. You could just throw it in the back of your 4-runner, but in case you have to make a sudden stop , or worse yet, roll your Toyota, you don't want the hi-lift jack to become a projectile and injure anyone inside or outside of the vehicle!

Here are some threads with some clever ideas on building your own mount, and where to store your hi-lilft jack. Some people put it on the front bumper, some put it on the rear bumper, and others strap it to a roll bar or exo-cage.

There's also discussion about keeping it low because it is quite heavy and can effect your vehicle's center of gravity.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439949

Toyota Starter Issues

Tue, 09 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

If you've owned a Toyota long enough, you've probably run into, or heard about, the Toyota starter contact issues.

Here's what happens: Each time you turn the key to start your Toyota, there is a spark that occurs when the copper contacts in the starter move out to make contact. After lots of sparks, these contacts wear down and corrode (for lack of a better word). This can get so bad that current won't even flow through the contacts thus creating a Toyota Truck or 4-runner that won't start.

Easiest fix: When I ran into this issue it was in the middle of the rainy season, and I didn't have a garage or undercover area to do any work in. I carried an old brrom handle in the back of my 1990 4-runner, and when the problem would occur, I'd get my passenger to tap on the starter with the broom stick while I held my key in the start position.

Eventually I got around to removing the starter, pulling out the copper contacts and cleaning them. I read somewhere that you can simply flip the contacts over and they're good as new.

Here's some info on how to test your starter: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#EasyTest

I recently came across this post on Pirate 4x4. It talks about the same problem: A Toyota that won't start. However, after cleaning the starter contacts, and even replacing the starter, his problem still wasn't fixed. That's when he pulled out his Toyota Factory Service Manual and realized that the starter relay (to trigger the starter solenoid) was powered off of the ignition circuit, rather than a high current power source.

Here's the writeup on what he did to remedy this, and how it fixed his Toyota starter issues: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287065

Dodge Dakota Bellhousing Bolts to Toyota Transmissions

Sat, 06 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Did you know....

The 2.5L 5 spd bellhousing from a 95-00 Dodge Dakota bolts to a Toyota R150/R151 transmission? The engine end of it mates up to any 60 degree GM engine bolt pattern.

Here's a huge list of engine/transmission combos that this allows for, including some never thought of before reliable, small, and economical car engines!

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/

Of course, if you're more into doing the norm, there's always Advance Adapters and their custom bellhousings made to adapt a W series Toyota transmission to a Chevy, Buick, Olds, Pontiac block.

http://www.advanceadapters.com

Front Bumper Pictures

Sun, 09 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Ever thought of building your own front bumper?

Have questions like 'Where and how do I mount it to my Toyota frame?'

This post from the Pirate4x4 bulletin board has tons of pictures of different Toyota 4x4 bumper designs. It also has pictures of how to mount the bumpers to your off-road rig.

There's some good discussion about winch mounts strengths, and ways to improve radiator protection without hampering front end approach angle or clearance.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129847

Winterizing Your Toyota

Thu, 06 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Now that it's November, the leaves have turned, fallen, and been driven over, and the cold weather season is upon us. I just switched my insurance from my summer 4x4 Toyota Truck vehicle, to my winter Toyota 4runner sport utility vehicle. Since it's been over 6 months since I've driven my 4runner, it was time to do a basic checkup on things to make sure they are running in tip top shape.

It's one thing to have a vehicle breakdown in the summer (which is why I don't mind driving my 82 Toyota Pickup that burns oil, makes timing chain noise, and leaks oil). In the winter, it is not only more annoying, but can also be more serious.

After some research online on how to Winterize your vehicle, I discovered that these lists all have the same basic ideas.

The ones that worry are:

Exhaust system

Be sure to check the muffler and exhaust pipes for leaks and for their general condition each Fall. Corrosion or perforations in the exhaust system can permit leakage of lethal carbon monoxide fumes into the passenger compartment.

When there's snow on the roads, ensure your exhaust tailpipe isn't obstructed by it when starting the engine, and never back into snow banks.

You see, my exhaust has several holes in it. It's partly because I'm too lazy to fix it, and partly because I think it sounds cool! Actually, it's because next summer when I'm driving my truck again I hope to do a total makeover on the Toyota 4runner.

Tune Up

If you're due for a tune-up, have it done before winter sets in. Winter
magnifies existing problems such as pings, hard starts, sluggish
performance or rough idling.

My 2.4L 4 cylinder 4runner has run sluggish ever since I bought it. Yes, it does seem a little worse in cold weather, but it also seems a little better as cold air creates better power. I don't know if it's sluggish because it runs bad, or sluggish because it's underpowered.

Here's some '10 steps to winterize your vehicle' links.

http://www.canadiandriver.com/winter/winterize.htm

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43799/article.html

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/15940164/

Twin Stick Shifter

Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

A twin stick shifter is a replacement lever for your Toyota transfer case. Toyota built their 4 cylinder transfer case in such a way that the original lever can be replaced with two levers side by side. This allows one lever to be the high and low range selector, and the other lever to be the two and four wheel drive selector.

The offroad advantage of this is significant. If you find yourself in a tight space, and escpecially if you have a locker in your front axle, simply disengage four wheel drive to turn tighter corners. Rather than the old method of having to stop the vehicle to shift into high range 2 wheel drive, you can just flip the 4wd/2wd lever while still moving. This also allows for slow speed manuevering rather than being in hi-range.

Here is a comparison of 2 different Toyota twinstick shifters.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/twinstick_shootout/index.html

Trail gear also has their own twin stick and has a good listing of what Toyota transmission and transfer case combinations it works with: http://www.trail-gear.com/shifter-dual.html

Axle Wrap

Sat, 25 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

When braking or acceleration forces are applied to the wheels, the resulting torque on the axle can cause the springs to deform (as on the left where the springs look like they're made out of a wet noodle). This is called axle wrap.

As your Toyota is modified: lift is increased, springs are softer for more flex, tire size and traction are increased. Axle wrap also increases.

On my Toyota truck I have 33 inch tires, soft crappy springs of an un-known brand (I should mention soft enough for axle wrap but not soft enough for a smooth ride), and a Lincoln locker in the rear. I didn't really notice axle wrap until I was spotting my wife over an obstacle and the back started hopping and kicked sideways due to the spring deformation.

There are many different views on different way to eliminate Toyota axle wrap. Here is a good write-up that discusses different type of traction bars and location points.

www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/

Most people seem to agree that the ladder bar provides the best anti-wrap protection. If the lower arm is built low enough, it can also provide a significant amount of driveshaft protection. Here's a ladder bar built and installed on a Toyota axle:

http://www.yotatech.com/f88/traction-bar-fab-122658/

This winter I plan on building one of these for my Toyota. I will be sure to document the process so I can post it here.

Spanish Toyota Manuals

Wed, 22 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

I don't speak Spanish, but a large population of the world does. Here are some Toyota Manuals (Toyota Manuales) in Spanish. Manuales:

- Manual completo del motor 3L
- Manual del motor 3VZ-E y 22R
- Mantenimiento de cubos Aisin

I'm sure there's other useful stuff on this site too, but I can't understand the Spanish links!

http://www.toyoteros.com.ar/manuales/

Toyota Driveshaft Spacer to Lengthen Driveshaft

Mon, 20 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

It's a never ending struggle. Every time you change your suspension configuration and your lift changes.

Since your lift has changed, the distance from your pinion flange to your transfer case flange has changed; this obviously means that your driveshaft length needs to be changed as well.

Here's a simple idea to extend your driveshaft if the amount of extension needed is fairly minimal. It's a spacer that mounts to your transfercase output flange and then your driveshaft bolts to it.

I imagine that you wouldn't want to do this with a very large spacer, as there could be a lot of sideload placed on it when your suspension cycles.

These spacers aren't cheap, but should be cheaper than paying to have your actual driveshaft extended. Maybe you could make your own?

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DriveshaftSpacer.shtml

Build an Off Road Trailer

Sat, 18 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

If you're like me, after a few weekends of camping, your brain starts thinking about all the time and energy wasted packing the vehicle, unpacking it at camp, packing it at camp, and then unpacking it at home again.

I'm contemplating building an off-road trailer, and here's a great write-up of one built to tow behind a Land Cruiser. He justs leaves it packed with his camping gear, and when he wants to go camping, hooks up the trailer and goes!

http://www.wildyoats.com/off_road_trailer_build.htm

Upgrading Your Knuckle Studs

Thu, 16 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

If you're running bigger tires and/or some type of hydro assist, you've probably noticed the knuckle studs on your Toyota 4x4 get loose after a few wheeling trips.

However, if you've torqued the nuts to the proper specs, it isn't your knuckle studs loosening, it's actually your knuckle studs stretching. The Toyota steering arm is held on by the stretching force caused by the nut being tightened against the steering arm.

With the extra forces exerted on them from bigger tires and steering upgades, the studs get stretched beyond the point of return, and need to be re-tightened and stretched some more. You can imagine a few times through this stretching and tightening sequence the studs will finally give in and stretch.

A relatively inexpensive way to replace the 12mm studs with a larger stronger stud is to use the studs that mount most Dana 44 steering arms. Here's how.

http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images/tech/2004/1-04knuckles/1-04knuckles.html

Support Non-Profit Offroad Organizations

Wed, 01 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

As time goes on, more and more of our trails are being shut down. This is sometimes due to erosion, garbage, or the land being developed.

As one person, there isn't much you or I can do to stop the government and environmental groups from limiting our trail access. But there is a way you can help. Toyota Resources has developed a way to allow you to donate to your favorite offroad non-profit by simply searching the web.

Searching the web is something we do every day, and each Yahoo! search donates approximately $0.01 to the charity of your choice.

Visit us at Search.ToyotaResources.com to find out more, and please, tell your offroading friends!

Search Engine that supports Off Road Charities

Wed, 01 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

ToyotaResources has just releases a new feature! It's a search engine that donates money to the off-road charity of your choice.

Visit Search.ToyotaResources.com for more details.

Overloading Your Toyota

Thu, 11 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Wow. That is a big pile of stuff in the back of a little old Toyota!

Ponder this:
- I wonder if those are the drivers being questioned by the local police?

- Is the hood up because the 4 cylinder engine overheated?

- Would they fit under an overpass?

Photo taken in a parking lot somewhere in Africa.

Calculating your Center Of Gravity and Rollover Angle

Wed, 10 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Every time I go out on the trails, I end up on a sidehill and think: Wouldn't it be great to have an inclinometer (shows sidehill angle of the truck) mounted to my dash? Then when I'm on a sidehill and don't roll, I know that angle is safe. When I come to the next sidehill, I could watch the inclinometer and if it goes higher than the value I saw on the last hill, I either stop, or take it real slow, and make mention of this new higher sidehill angle.

Even better than the brute force method of 'watch the angle until you roll, and then don't go that far', would be to calculate the center of gravity of your vehicle and calculate the rollover angle from these values. It still requires some sort of inclinometer to display the angle your truck is at, but it should prove to be far more accurate.

The reason I haven't done this is because it's quite involved... but now that I've found this great write-up, I think I'll try it out!

Keep in mind that when weighing your vehicle, you should have it loaded as if you were going on a trip. This includes passengers, camping and recovery gear, full fuel tank etc.

http://4wheeling.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=2

* The page is funky, so be sure to scroll down to see the article

Exploring Mines and Ghost Towns

Sun, 07 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

If you live in BC Canada, especially in the Southern section of the province, it's hard to go too far offroad without encountering some sort of abandoned town in the mountains.

Many of these ghost towns flared up and died along with the mine they are next too. Some towns just happened to be on the wrong side of a mountain from the railway, so once the railway was put through, the towns would actually move to be closer to it.

http://www.freewebs.com/bcmines/index.htm

Although this site doesn't give any directions on the mine and ghost town locations, it has lots of pictures to give you a good idea of what's out there. The site owner also provides his email address, so you could try and contact him for better trail directions.

Part Numbers

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This website, although over half of it has the ever-annoying 'Under Construction' graphic, has a full online parts catologue. You can either browse through it, or simply enter your vin and it immediately pulls up your vehicle.

It also works great as a way to decode your VIN. It will tell you where your Toyota Truck or 4runner was built, what gear ratio your axles have and more.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts

It took me a while to figure out that Toyodiy means Toyota Do-It-Yourself.

How a Jeep goes everywhere a Toyota does

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Toyota Recovery

Thu, 21 Aug 2008 00:00:00 GMT

You don't have to spend too long off roads, and you'll either get stuck yourself, or more likely come across a crappy driver who got stuck in their jeep! A few weekends ago, I went offroading with a friend, and two hunting/drinking fellows in a Toyota Truck wanted to follow us around in a Toyota off roading convoy. Great idea, until they get stuck on a simple log because they weren't paying attention.

The log was at the bottom of a steep little section of hill. If the driver was paying attention, he would've seen the log and gone around it to the right. However, since he liked to speed around in the woods, his left tire got on the left of the log, and his momentum pushed his axle forward on the log until his left front tire was off the ground, and the majority of the weight of the front of the truck was hanging him up.

Luckily Darren and I came prepared, and after failing to pull him forward and off the log, managed to pull the log out from under his axle.

If you're new to off road recovery, or just need a brush up, here is a great article on Pirate 4x4 about recovery. At the bottom is a host of links to the US Army's Vehicle Recovery Manuals.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html

Build Your Own Triple Drilled Differential Pinion Flange

Thu, 24 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

After years of offroading with open differentials, I decided to take the plunge and buy a locker.

I decided to purchase a lock-right locker to install in my rear axle. Since my 1982 Toyota Truck is a daily driver, I opted to purchase a 3rd member from an auto wrecker so that I could take my time installing the locker and still be able to drive my Toyota. I found a 1987 Extended Cab Toyota that had new brake pads and rear axle seals, so I figured chances were good that the differential was well taken care of as well.

Once I got it home, I installed the locker following the How To Install A Lockrite Locker instructions.

When it came time to install this 1987 3rd member into my 1982 Truck, I realized that the driveshaft bolt patterns were different, and my 1987 driveshaft wasn't going to bolt up to the 1987 differential pinion flange.

After much research, I decided to try and drill a new set of holes in the pinion flange so that my 1982 driveshaft could be bolted to it. Here's how I did it.

1. Clamp the driveshaft flange to the differential flange. The center hole of the pinion flange will mate nicely with the center bump on the driveshaft regardless of the year differences of the shaft. This allows for easy centering and alignment of the driveshaft on the pinion output flange.

2. Find the correct drill bit and start drilling. Remember to use some oil, and take your time. It's a pretty big chunk of metal you have to drill through.

3. Once you're done one hole, insert a bolt, and rotate the flanges until the next on is in an easy to get to location. The bolt will help keep the flanges from getting out of alignment, and ensure that all 4 of your holes line up when you're done!

Total Time: 45 minutes

I had the differential on the bench, so it made things easier. If you are drilling the differential flange on the truck, it could take you longer.

Triple Drilled Flange

Sun, 20 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Over the mini-truck years, Toyota changed the driveshaft bolt pattern multiple times.

Bolt Pattern

Years it came in

60mm x 60mm x 8mm

60mm x 60mm x 10mm

60mm x 68.5mm x 10mm

61.5mm x 70mm x 10mm

1979-1983 U-Joint (see notes below *)

1984-1995 U-Joint

1984-1995 CV Joint/4cyl

1988-1995 CV Joint/V6

Since there are so many different possibilities, Toyota aftermarket companies have been selling triple drilled flanges for Toyota differentials and transfer case out puts. This allows driveline swapping across any of the years and any of the bolt patterns, and makes it easier to find replacement or spare driveshafts.

If you're like me and own a 79-83 truck, or have swapped in a differential from a 79-83 Toyota Truck, even these triple-drilled flanges don't have the smallest 60mm x 60mm x 8mm bolt pattern.

They do have the 60mm x 60mm x 10mm bolt pattern, so one option is to drill out the 8mm holes in the driveshaft to match the 10mm holes in the flange and then use 10mm bolts instead of 8mm bolts.

But! In order to replace the differential flange CORRECTLY (I say correctly, because others have come up with methods to do it the easy way, but the results are unproven, untested etc) one needs to replace the crush sleeve which means pulling the differential out of the axle, and then disassembling it and setting up the correct backlash.

I opted for the build your own triple drilled flange method. This method prevented me from having to remove the flange and avoided messing with the pinion backlash and removing the differential from the truck. (I happened to have the differential removed because I was installing a locker, but it wasn't necessary to remove it in order to drill the flange).

Triple Drilled Flange Price Comparison (as of July 2008)

Marlin Crawler: $35

Sky Manufacturing: $39

Trail Gear: $25

Add Your Toyota Pictures Resource

Wed, 09 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Our Toyota Picture Resource is almost completed! We have decided to release the ability to upload pictures before we are finished the search functionality. This will allow for a larger database of images to pull from when the system is completed.

What is it?

A database of Toyota images
When images are uploaded, very specific information about the image is selected
The Toyota images are searchable by year, make, axle type, tire brand, lift amount etc.

We are hoping the full system will be released by July 15th, 2008.

Click here to upload your photo now!

1990 Toyota 4runner Rust Repair Rear Quarter Panel

Mon, 30 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Here's some image and pictures outlining the steps I took to repair rust on my 1990 4runner. It was getting so bad that when I drove on a gravel road or in the rain, the tires would throw up wet goo and it would get inside the rear panels. If there was enough of it, it would run out from behind the plastic interior panel and soak the carpet in the rear cargo area. Since the rest of the Toyota 4runner was pretty rough, the fix didn't have to be particularily pretty; it just had to work.

1. I removed the passenger side of the rear bumper. It is supposed to be bolted to the body in a few spots, but since the body was rusted so bad, I just had to unbolt the side section from the main bumper, and remove one bolt inside the rear fender well.

2. After getting the bumper off, I had to figure out what to do. The outer quarter panel skin is quite thinner than the inner piece of the body, so the outer was completely rusted but the inner piece was still solid. I decided to grind along the lower pinch seam to disconnect the outer skin from the still good inner skin.

3. The next step was to cut out the outer skin high enough that it would get me above the rust into good metal. There was some spot rust that I decided wasn't serious enough to completely cut out, so I just ground down to bare metal. For some reason I don't have a picture of it completed, but here is the work part way done.

4. When deciding how to attach a new piece of metal over the hole, I decided to bend the metal up along the dotted green line. This would provide a nice little holder for the bottom of my replacement piece of metal, that would not only hold it in place during the fix, but ensure I had a nice straight line along the bottom.

5. Cut a piece of replacement metal and weld it on along your newly bent lower seam, and aroudn the other edges. I had a chunk of galvanized sheet around, so I opted to use that. Just remember when welding galvanized, don't breathe the fumes as it is poisonous. I spot welded about every inch or two just to hold it in place. I welded a few spots, and then bent and welded as I went aroungd the sheet. The trickiest part is trying to bend the metal. Since I wasn't too concerned about looks, I have some wierd bends in the sheet and it doesn't look factory. Considering the rest of the truck, this is about the nicest part now anyways!

The real issue is when do you stop? The rust just kept going, so I opted to stop at the fender line and come back in a year or two when it rusts through my body filler. I tacked the rusted out outer skin to the stronger inner skin, painted it with rust converter and called it good. After all, it's an offroad vehicle, not a show truck!

6. Add your body filler and paint it!

Site Update

Tue, 24 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Thank-you to all who have contacted us with site feedback! For those of you with ideas or comments, please let us know by emailing info@toyotaresources.com

We are busily building a new feature on the site. It consists of an image listing containing all sorts of Toyota images. This database will be searchable by all sorts of criteria. If you want to see 1990 2 Door Toytoa 4runners with 33 inch tires, this will be the place to find it! Or if you're wondering what a Toyota Truck looks like with rear chevy springs, you can find out here.

Stay tuned, as we're hoping to have this section up and running by next week sometime!

Toyota Rust : Public Enemy Number 1

Tue, 17 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

You don't have to own a Toyota very long, or any other vehicle for that matter, to know that rust can be a major issue. Rust problems can grow faster and be even worse in areas that have the roads salted often, in areas near the ocean, or in areas that have a lot of rain.

There are some options when it comes to preventing rust on your Toyota Truck or 4runner.

The first step is to remove as much rust as you can. Use a wire wheel or brush or even a grinder. If there is enough metal left behind the rust, don`t stop until you see clean bare metal.

Next, use a rust convertor of some sort to convert any remaining rust into a paintable surface.

Finally, prime and paint all bare metal, damaged paint, scratches, anything that could cause some rust cancer to start.

It may seem a little overwhelming. What I like to do is prime and paint any pieces I take off while repairing and working on my truck. If you`re anything like me, it won`t take long and most of your truck will be painted!

Here`s some useful links:

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Articles/Projects/Rust/Rust.htm
http://www.automedia.com/Rust_Prevention/res20001101rp/1

Frame Rust - Repair or Replace?

Tue, 10 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Everyone knows that the frame on early Toyotas are plagued with rust issues. The rust usually first appears near the front hanger for the rear springs, just behing the cab on pickup trucks or just behind the front doors on the 4runner. Because the inside of the frame rail is thinner than the outside, rust eats through it first.

Once you have rust, it's difficult to get rid of it. Many recommend completely swapping frames to one that is rust free. Others say you can cut the frame right behind the cab mounts and weld on, or build, a new back half. However, both of these methods are time consuming, and assume that you have serious rust issues.

If rust holes are just starting to show itself, there are possibilities of having the rusted section cut out and new steel welded in.

Here's a frame fix that is fine for the trail, but wouldn't pass a vehicle inspection:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/218301-wristys-1980-meatmobile-build-up.html

Here's a decent looking plate job that probably would pass a vehicle inspection, as long as the person welding was certified.

Here's a series of 29 pictures showing Toyota frame rust repair including cutting out rusted frame parts, using a cardboard template to cut metal repair plates, and then welding the plates onto the frame.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/554696663wRiaDA

If anyone knows of a place that makes repair plates for Toyota Frames, leave a comment below. Stay tuned for detailed information on repairing Toyota frame rust.

SR5 Gauge Cluster Swap

Sat, 07 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Unless you are lucky enough to have an sr5 model Toyota Truck or 4runner, you may not have a tachometer, and you won't have an oil pressure gauge or volt meter.

However, there is hope! It is apparently fairly straight forward to swap in a gauge cluster from an SR5 model Toyota. When looking for one, be sure to get it from a Toyota with the same engine model.

If you have a 1992 to 1993 model truck or 4runner, be extra careful. Somewhere in there, Toyota swapped from having a mechanical speedometer system that uses a cable and gear, to an electronic speedometer that uses a sensor located in the transfer case.

1989-1995 SR5 Gauge Swap Information:
http://www.brian894x4.com/Gaugecluster.html

1984-1987 SR5 Gauge Swap Info:
http://siestaoff-road.web1000.com/clustertech.html

Pictures of Military Toyotas

Fri, 06 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

It's cool to see Toyota's from around the world, and it's particularly interesting to see how Military and Army personnel outfit them for duty.

This hilux, from Afghanistan, originally used by the Afghan's before being confiscated by the 'good guys' has the front doors removed for quick entry and exit, rear windows covered with bulletproof plywood (ha!) and a big rack thing in the back for holding fuel jugs and two guns turrets mounted on top. It looks a little rear heavy, but it's not a rock crawler, it's more of a desert prerunner!

Check out more pics at:

http://www.brian894x4.com/MilitaryHilux.html

Rock Slider Stiffening

Tue, 03 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

When building any trail armor, stronger is always better. This is especially true with rock sliders. They are a handy point to use a hi-lift jack / farm jack at, so they have to be able to support the weight of one side of the truck. In addition, if a tire slips off of a rock and the slider catches the truck, it can see up to 2 or 3 times the weight of that side of the truck. That requires some strong building.

Many rock sliders are welded right to the frame, and others bolted to it. There is some debate on which is better. However, the point that is often overlooked is the twisting action that frame rail sees when the rock slider is under load. This 4runner owner decided to use a crossmember to tie the two sliders together to minimize the torsional stress on his frame rails. Here is what he did:

http://home.4x4wire.com/deddleman/section_rock_sliders.html

More pictures and details:

http://home.4x4wire.com/deddleman/section_cradledetail.html

Toyota Pickup Idiot Book

Mon, 02 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

How to Keep Your Toyota Pickup Alive: Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot for 1975-1987/2WD & 4WD

This pdf download is quite large... 130 megabytes. But it's worth it. It's light hearted writing style and illustrations make it an easy read. It covers all basic sorts of maintenance such as brakes, lubrication and oil, and all other recommended periodic maintenance.

As the title implies, it's not an advanced book, but it's a great starting point for someone just getting to know their Toyota. It seems thorough enough that it could probably replace a Haynes Toyota manual.

I've only been able to find it as a torrent download, so here's the link to the torrent page:

http://www.mininova.org/tor/1053072

Waterproofing Tricks

Sun, 01 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT

One can't venture offroad for very long without coming across some water. Whether it's a lake or a river or even a big puddle, if it's more than a foot deep it could cause some problems.

The lowest part of the vehicle that can have water troubles is your axles. If water gets past the seals and into the bearings and differentials, rust, wear, damage, and even failure can result.

Starting from there and working up to the transmission, engine fan and engine control unit (ecu), this article does a good job of addressing the steps needed to waterproof your Toyota.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/WaterProofing.shtml

Hydro Assist Steering

Sat, 31 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

What is hydro-assist steering? For starters, what is hydraulic steering? Hydraulic steering relies on fluid pressure to push a hydraulic ram in and out, that in turn puches on the steering knuckles.

Hydro assist steering is a hydraulic ram that is added to the current mechanical steering system.

Check out this article for a thorough write-up on the differences between hydraulic assist steering and full hydro steering.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/suspension/129_0611_hydraulic_steering_tech/index.html

If that article manages to convince you that you need hydro assist steering, then check out this article on how to tap a stock Toyota IFS steering box to connect hydraulic lines and run a hydraulic cylinder.

http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm

Gear Drive Transfer Case Bible and Chain Drive Info

Fri, 30 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Over the mini-truck years, Toyota used a few different versions of the gear driven transfer case, as well as the chain drive transfer case.

Start by learning how to figure out if you have a gear driven or chain driven t-case by reading this:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/gearvschain.htm

Now that you know the benefits of the gear driven transfer case, check out this link for a list of what years the forward and top shift configurations came in.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/app.htm

And continue on to find out specifics such as noisy bearings, quiet run gears, and other features on the specific model of transfer case.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/tcaseinfo.htm

Pinion Seal Replacement

Thu, 29 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Although I would consider myself fairly mechanically confident, i've always steered clear of anything to do with differentials because of the complexity of adjusting the pinion bearing pre-load and checking for correct backlash and all those sorts of things.

However, when I went to swap my 3rd member with one from a later model truck, I discovered that the Toyota driveshaft bolt patterns have changed over the years.

According to Marlin Crawler (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm) here is a break down of the different bolt patterns:

1963-8/69 FJ40, 1979-83 Hilux, 64mm x 56mm x 8mm

1984+ Pickup, 60mm x 60mm x 10mm (non-CV)

1986-87 Turbo, 1988+ V6, FJ60, 66mm x 66mm x 11mm Bolt on installation with machined seal surface.

I decided the easiest way would be to swap my old differential flange onto the new differential. This is how to remove the pinion flange, to replace the seal or swap flanges, without having to readjust pinioin bearing pre load.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/PinionSeal/index.html

Differential Break-In Procedure

Wed, 28 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

After installing new gears in your differential, you need to drive carefully for the first while. This is called the break-in period. Everyone seems to have a different idea of what this differential break in consists of. Here's 2 of the heavy hitters in the Toyota world and what they have to say about it.

All Pro Off Road

http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=58

Marlin Crawler

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/ringandpinion.htm

Toyota Fender Trimming (aka Hacking)

Tue, 27 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

If you run big tires it won't be too long until the fenders get in the way. It's either when turning, or when the suspension is flexing out on the trails.

Here's a walk through of a trim job done on a 1st Gen 4runner. They trimmed, removed rust, and welded in new sections of metal on the rear quarter panels.

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2003/toyfenders/

Quick Bumpstops

Tue, 27 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Need a quick bumpstop? Rather than climbing under your truck and installing a conventional bumpstop, why not do what this guy did?

He grabbed an old shock bushing he had laying around, cut a slit in it, and slipped it over the chrome shaft of his shock. He used a zip tie to make sure it stayed on there.

Now when the shock bottoms out, it hits that rubber donut. It doesn't eliminate the need for a bumpstop, it's just a temporary solution. He also notes that you should make sure the shock mount is strong enough to be a bump stop as well, otherwise you could run into other issues.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/bumpstop/

Tack Welding your Birfields

Mon, 26 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Another Birfield Solution is to tack-weld on your axles. It keeps the axle from pulling too far to the weak outside of the birfield. It also increase repair speed on the trail because it elminates the need to pound the inner axle off of the birfield joint.

However, the mar-tack solution is not trouble free. This article explains that the 1-3/8 inch magical location for the tack welds actually led to seal and oil leaking problems because the truetrac differential he had was narrower than the stock differential by about 1.4 inch.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Martack

If it still sounds like something you want to try, heres how you do it:

http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/toyotaaxletack/index.html

J-Arm Ball Flip

Sun, 25 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

On solid axle trucks with the stock steering setup, clearance can be an issue. After the truck is lifted, and especially if the u-bolts are flipped, the drag link will hit the u-bolts.

By flipping the ball to above the j-arm, rather than below it, the drag link moves up about 2 inches. This also brings the j-arm closer to level, and the closer to level it is, the closer you will be to retaining the stock steering geometry!

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0

All About Birfields

Sun, 25 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

What is a birfield? Why are they considered weak? How do I fix the problem? What are the aftermarket options for birfields?

Great article, straight out of 4wd Toyota Owner, and hosted by Bobby Long himself.

http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/birfields.html

Rear Disc Brake Conversion using Toyota Rotors and Calipers

Sat, 24 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Many people who get into much mud find that the rear drum brakes can cause problems. Mud and dirt gets into the drum and cakes on the components, making the brakes not auto adjust properly. Also, has tire size increases, so does the rotational mass and thus the demand on your brakes. The easiest way to upgrade your drum brakes is to get rid of them! Swap them out for some disc brakes. They self clean, and sinze they squeeze on the rotor, they theoretically have better stopping power.

This is a detailed writeup with pictures and descriptions on swapping out the stock drum brakes for disc brakes. This particular swap uses a Toyota rotor and Toyota caliper for parts. It doesn't state where he got the bracket for mounting the rotor, but it's such thorough tech it's a great walk through that applies to putting any rear disc conversion on your Toyota.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452546

Home Built Crossover Steering Arm

Fri, 23 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Not interested in paying the $200+ for crossover steering? Here's a guy who built his own arm using 2 stock arms and welding them together! Granted, this isn't high steer, it's just crossover steering, but it gets rid of the bump steer with the stock J-arm.

Some people say that crossover is no good unless it's hi-steer as well, because the tie rod is below the springs and can get damaged. But for those of us with the stock push-pull steering, the arm is already there!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/cross/Cross.html

Toyota Model History and Info

Thu, 22 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Good information on the different models of Toyota pickups, including information on what options they had, when they were produced, and even some basic modification stuff. They're labeled FAQs so if you have a question you think may have been answered before, then check these out.

Pre 84 Trucks FAQ: http://yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/Pre_84_Trucks_FAQ

84-85 Trucks & 4Runners FAQ: http://yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/84-85_Trucks_%26_4Runners_FAQ

86-95 Trucks & 4Runners FAQ: http://yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/86-95_Trucks_%26_4Runners_FAQ

Pictures of the various Toyota steering setups

Thu, 22 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Keeping track of Toyota steering types and terms can be confusing at the best of times. Need to brush up on what the pitman arm, drag link, or j-arm is?

This is a brief pictorial of the different steering setups on solid axle trucks, including after a high steer conversion with an IFS steering box.

http://128.83.80.200/taco/toysteer.html

Toyota Exhaust Examples and Information

Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Thinking of upgrading your stock Toyota exhaust? Toyota's small engines (small compared to domestic v8 engines) perform best with back pressure. That's why they come from the factory with smal exhaust pipes. Top end power comes from free flowing exhaust, but low end torque, which is good to have when off roading, comes from a slightly restrictive exhaust that creates backpressure.

Once you've decided with what size of exhaust pipe to go with, you need to decide on a muffler. Here is a page with video and audio samples of different mufflers on Toyota vehicles.

http://pnw4runners.com/exhaust/exhaust.htm

Fuel Tank / Gas Tank Relocation

Tue, 20 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This article is a great resource for those looking at gas tank relocation. It's pretty thorough, until the part that says "Other considerations include adding a new rear crossmember, relocating the exhaust and building a skid plate." There are no pictures or further description about relocating the exhaust, or adding a new rear corssmember.

I would assume that's because anyone looking to do this mod needs to know how to weld and fab anyways, so they discuss the fuel related topics and leave the fabrication comments for other places.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/gas_tank/

Build yourself a Canvas Topper out of Military Tarp

Sat, 17 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

There's 2 articles, by Johnny Lange, and they do a pretty good job of explaing how to build a top.

The first link explains what he did to build the canvas top for his 83 longbed pickup. The second link explains how he build the top on the left for his 1st Gen 4runner.

The 4runner writeup is more thorough and has more pictures. Since they're basically the same, use both set of images to get a good feel for the project!

http://www.wildyoats.com/canvas_army_top.htm

http://www.wildyoats.com/canvas_top_tech.htm

FSM Solid Front Axle Images

Wed, 14 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Here's a page from the Marlin Crawler Forum with all the images from the Factory Service Manual for the solid front axle. There are also some images for the front and rear suspension, as well as the steering box and the load sense proportioning valve (LSPV).

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32014.0

Combining 2 stock driveshafts to make a Long Travel Driveshaft

Wed, 14 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This guy came up with the idea to take his stock driveshaft and an extra one he had sitting around and make a homemade long travel driveshaft. He cut off the slip joint and spliced them together to make a long travel driveshaft.

This obviously requires some welding, but if it's done carefully, it should provide a lot less noise and vibration then a square driveshaft ever would.

He spliced the female ends together, but you should be able to splice the male ends together or even splice both together for a super long travel driveshaft.

Make Your Own Gaskets

Tue, 13 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Tired of paying for gaskets? This method stil costs some money, as he recommends you buy gasket paper. It's a good write-up on how to make a nice gasket that fits as well as it looks.

I have heard of some people using ceral boxes or other cardboards for gaskets. While this might not be a good idea for a head gasket, I think low pressure applications, such as a differential gasket, should be okay. Be warned that cardboard gaskets, even factory built oem cardboard type gaskets, weep a little bit. They don't leak, but the 3rd member always seem to be a little bit wet back there.

http://crustyquinns.com/tech/myogasket.html

Toyota Part Numbers

Mon, 12 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Here's a list of part numbers for popular Toyota parts that need replacing.

Includes 22r, 22re, 3VZE 3.0V6, solid axle, ifs axle, rear axle, transfer case and more!

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=27237&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=all&fpart=1

Driveline Basics

Fri, 09 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Ever wondered what all the talk about driveshaft angle is really about? Check out this article.

It explains that a u-joint at an angle travels in an ellipse, not a perfect circle, and that can cause vibrations. To avoid this, double cardon shafts have 2 universal joints rotated to each other so that the elliptical paths cancel each other out.

This article also explains what the optimum driveshaft to pinion angles are... with pictures!

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

Toyota 4x4 Building 101

Tue, 06 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

New to Toyota offroading? Have a look at this page. It's a brief, but thorough read. Touches on suspension mods, tires, wheels, lifts, steering, and brakes.

http://www.wildyoats.com/toyota_4x4_building_101.htm

Truck and 4runner VIN Information

Fri, 02 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

How to decode Truck and 4runner Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN)

Vehicles come from the factory with a unique VIN. However, only the last few digits are unique. The rest of the numbers are specific to that vehicles options, and can provide information on what the truck came with from the factory. Wondered what type of transmission or what differential gear ratio you have? See if you can decode your vehicle identification number and find out!

Keep in mind that previous owners may have replaced stock items with different types...

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/vin/

4 Link Suspension Article

Tue, 29 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This is a detailed explanation of factors to think of when building and designing a 4 link suspension system.

There are diagrams to help explain the theory behind the link design, and points to remember during constrution.

This is apparently a version for this guys personal use, and it's just a copy from Petersons 4wd and Offroad website.

http://www.muddtanks.com/4LinkSuspArticle.htm

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/suspension/131_0306_link/index.html

Air Compressor Comparison

Mon, 28 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Pepboy's Master Flow model MF-1050 air compressor test

This is a head to head competition of the QuickAir 2 compressor versus a made in China model sold at pep boys. Test results show that the pepboys compressor is actually a little bit faster than the QuickAir 2! At the time the test was done, the MF-1050 sold for $50. Since then, prices on Ebay have actually gone up a little bit. Either way, they are still less than half of the price of the $250 QuickAir 2 Compressor!

http://www.gearinstalls.com/pepboys.htm

Toyota Differential Information

Mon, 28 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This is a great differential comparison. It include photos and descriptions of how to tell one type of diff from another. It addresses front, rear, ifs and solid axle differentials.

Answers to common questions such as:

What is the gear ratio of my differential?
What type of differentials do I have?
How wide are the various toyota axles?

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

Fitting a Toyota Electric Locker (E-locker) into 8 inch Differential

Fri, 25 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

From 1996 on, Toyota offered an option in there 4runners and Tacomas. It was a rear electric locking differential straight from the factory. Since the differentials use an 8 inch ring gear like Toyota mini trucks and 4runners (front and rear solid axles), the e-locker can be retrofitted into these axles.

This site has a great writeup of how to modify the axle housing to fit the e-locker, including comparison pictures between the e-locker axle housing and a standard 8 inch axle housing. At the bottom of the page is wiring information on how to wire the Toyota electric locker using relays.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

Supra Engine Swap Bellhousing Information

Thu, 24 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Supra Engine Swap

Thinking of swapping out your tired 4cyl or v6 engine for a supra inline 6 cyl? Here's a chart of the bellhousing patterns of all the toyota truck and 4runner transmissions. It has details on what bellhousing is needed to connect the different transmissions to a 5m or 7m supra engine.

http://www.supracharged.com/tech/bellhousing_chart.htm

22RTE Forum

Tue, 22 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

"This forum is dedicated to the discussion of all things related to the 22RTE and to turbo conversions of the 22RE, 22R, and 20R engines. The primary purpose of this board is to talk about these turbocharged motors: building them, maintaining them, and especially modifying them for increased power and added reliability."

There's a stern warning about discussing suspension and other 4wd topics, not because they don't like it, but because they think it's better suited other places. I agree. However, if you're looking for turbo related tech, whether converting a 22re to a 22rte, building a 22rte, or fixing a 22rte, this is a good place to start.

1993 Toyota Factory Service Manual

Sun, 20 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual

As Toyota 4x4s get older and older, it's harder to find manuals for them. This guy named Nathan Buchana, I can assume that's his name because it's in the url, uploaded the whole 1993 Toyota Factory Service Manual. It includes 2wd, 4wd, standard and auto transmissions, and 4cyl and v6 engines. The only downside is that it's not one complete pdf. It's broken up into subsections. That's an advantage too, because you don't have to download the whole thing if you don't want all of it.

The only question I have, is how did he do it? Did he have a service manual on CD, or did he scan every page himself? You be the judge.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Homebuilt Onboard Shower

Tue, 30 Oct 2007 00:00:00 GMT

This particular writeup is based on a Ford Bronco shower install, but it's a great starting resource.

One of the most interesting parts is how Marlon used a refrigeration supply 'coaxial coil exchanger' that costs less than half of the standard heat exchangers found on Ebay. He says it actually works too well, so if trying this, be careful not to burn anybody!

http://classicbroncos.com/shower.shtml

Fuel Economy Resource

Tue, 30 Oct 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Whether you're looking at buying a brand new 4runner, or wondering what sort of fuel economy differences there are between the 22re and the 3.0L, check out this site. It groups vehicles by class, so it's easy to tell where the Toyotas rank compared to similarily classed vehicles.

It's in Imperial Units, but when viewing a vehicles details, there is a button at the top right that says "Metric".

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/

Visit Consumer Guide Auto for dimensions, specs etc

Fri, 05 Oct 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Consumer Guide Auto, by the guys at HowStuffWorks, is a great source for factory specifications from the time the vehicle was made. I used it to compare the wheel base lengths of the different 4runner generations, as well as compare the rear seat leg and head room. Consumer Guide Auto has all vehicles, not just Toyotas, so it's great for convincing your wife that the kids will have just as much room in the back as her Honda Civic!

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1990-to-1995-toyota-4runner-4.htm

Tire Size Calculator

Mon, 03 Sep 2007 00:00:00 GMT

This site has a great little calulator that saves having to do long division. I used it to figure out the difference in circumference of the 31 inch tires I was currently running, to the 33 inch tires I want to run. Then I know what sort of gear ratio I need to go with to keep my stock end ratios.

Here's what I did:
31 inch tire - circumference of 97.39 inches
33 inch tire - circumference of 103.67 inches
Miata Tire Calculator tells me there is a 6% difference which means if I kept my stock gears, the speedometer would read 100 km/h but I would actually be travel 16 km/h.
My stock ratio is 4.1. Add the 6% increase in tire circumference and I would have to get 4.35 gears (which you can't get, by the way) to stay with a stock end ratio.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Snow Wheeling

Sun, 26 Aug 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Snow wheeling is offroading in the snow. It's a whole different ball game. Clearance isn't near as important, because the snow smooths everything over. What really matters is spreading your weight out. The best way to accomplish that is to stuff on the biggest tires you can and lower the pressure as much as you dare!

Great bunch of photos from Iceland... but I must warn you, most are Toyotas, but there are a few other vehicles pictures as well.

http://www.4x4offroads.com/4x4-snow-and-ice-hofsjokull-langjokull.html

Does anyone know of any glacier-type trails in North America?

Lifts And Tires

Thu, 12 Jul 2007 00:00:00 GMT

If you've ever wondered how big of a tire to go with or how tall of a lift to use, this is well worth the read. It covers lots of different aspects that should be thought of when making your decision.

What will you be using your rig for?
What sort of terrain will you encounter?
Do you need more axle clearance, or just want more traction?

It even talks a little bit about what to do if you just want to look cool, not improve your off-road capabilities! Has pickup and 4runner information from '79 to 96.

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Articles/Information/Lifts_Tires.htm