Adventures of a Costumer

Photo Antiquities Museum, Pittsburgh

2010-03-07T20:45:00.006-05:00

Another great museum Lindsey and I had an opportunity to visit this weekend is the Photo Antiquities Museum in Pittsburgh. It's only two floors of a row home, but what a collection they have! The diversity of photographic types and equipment from all eras, particularly from daguerreotypes to cabinet cards is impressive. We even got a chance to see a collection from the archives focusing on Civil War Era photography in Lancaster, which is the emphasis of Lindsey and my fledgling collection (I used to buy her CDVs frequently when we were dating...and had some disposable income).

We hope to have an opportunity to contribute to interpretive efforts there in the future, as there are rich resources at the museum with much potential. If you're in Pittsburgh, this is another hour or two well-spent.

(Above Photo: CDV from authors' collection.)

Woodville Plantation

2010-03-07T16:43:00.003-05:00

Today, Lindsey and I stopped by Woodville Plantation just south of Pittsburgh, a country/wilderness/frontier mansion owned by John Neville--a man socially comparable to Edward Hand (of Rockford Plantation, Lancaster). That museum also interprets the the late 1700s to early 1800s and boasts a small cadre of costumed docents. (Sorry, no pictures, we forgot our camera.)

Lindsey seemed to be very impressed by the authenticity of the costumes, and it was evident the docents put much time into research for a first-person impression and research on Neville and his house. It's a small-scale operation, but if you're in the area, we recommend you attend one of their events this year.

Yellow Silk Ballgown on Ebay

2010-03-04T19:18:00.000-05:00

I just wanted to let you know that I'm selling this Yellow Silk Taffeta Ballgown on Ebay right now. I did not make this beautiful dress. It was purchased on Ebay in 2003 and only worn once. See my Ebay listing for more information if you're interested in owning it!

Simplicity 7216 Hoopskirt

2010-03-03T10:36:00.001-05:00

Here is the completed Simplicity 7216 Hoopskirt. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

This is made from a JoAnns Bottomweight Cotton - a nice weight for this project with a tight weave.

I made the larger of the two hoopskirts. I shortened the length by two rows of hooping, so the largest hoop is a little less than 108".

To add a little interest I scalloped the bottom edge of the hoopskirt like I had seen on an original. I cut the scalloped edge by hand and finished the edges using a satin stitch on my sewing machine.

1860 Silk Corset

2010-02-22T20:12:00.001-05:00

You may remember my adoration for THIS Gold Silk Corset worn in the movie 'Owl Creek Bridge'. I had long wanted to make a silk 1860s corset - even though my research shows that most 1860s corsets were white. I probably won't wear this one very often. I just think they're so pretty! My original intent was to use royal blue silk, but when that was not available, I decided to use this gold silk that I already had in my stash.

I patterned the corset off of a Beth Miller reproduction corset that I had worn for years. That corset was purchased second hand and since I'm long waisted I had to add quite a bit of length to achieve the correct fit in my reproduction.

Past Patterns #213 Victorian Corset would be an excellent pattern to use to achieve a similar look.

This corset has two layers of cotton coutil (purchased from Needles & Thread in Gettysburg). I also made a white cotton coutil corset, so that has just two layers of coutil - one is the outer fabric and the other is the lining. The silk corset has the silk and outer layer of coutil treated as one piece.

If you're new to corsetry and you'd like to make your own corset, I would recommend attending the Genteel Arts Corset class. A friend of mine attended this class and left with a beautiful reproduction corset.

1860s Green Ballgown

2010-02-19T01:11:00.000-05:00

Finally! Some decent photos of my 1860s Green Silk Ballgown. This ballgown was finished in November 2009 for a Remembrance Day Ball in Gettysburg, Pennyslvania.

I drafted the bodice based off of an original. I love the darted evening bodices that are so under-represented in the Living History community.

I designed the dress with lots of yards of clear bugle bead looped beadwork in mind - which I chose to lavishly trim the sleeves with. In retrospect the sleeves remind me of the stereotypical "princess" sleeves worn by Disney's Snow White.

The dress design began with two White, Purple, and Green silk scarves purchased at a Ten Thousand Villages sale. I knew that they would make the perfect Turban style headdress just like one I had seen in a fashion plate.

The triangular ruching on the skirt - green silk taffeta and white silk organza - contains thousands of purple beads hand beaded to it with the clear looped bead trim formed into rosettes at the points. Very time consuming! The skirt is lined in cotton organdy to stabilize the beadwork.

The skirt is box pleated after an original that I had the opportunity to study. The box pleats start out small in the front with one knife pleat on each side and grow in width to be very large at the back with lots of little knife pleats on each side.

18th Century Panniers

2010-02-17T16:03:00.000-05:00

Here are my 18th Century Panniers or Pocket Hoops. These were sewn from Ivory Cotton Damask fabric using a pattern that I drafted myself. I used round reed as the hoop boning.

18th Century Stays

2010-02-17T16:00:00.000-05:00

Here is one of the pairs of 18th Century Stays that I made last Spring. I used the J.P. Ryan Strapless Stays pattern. I would love to try out her new 18th Century Half Boned Stays Pattern!

This pair of stays was made using Pink Silk with Linen lining. I used both Reed and Metal boning.

I am also wearing my linen shift made using a pattern that I drafted myself.

18th Century Cap

2010-02-17T15:56:00.000-05:00

Here are a few detailed pictures of the 18th Century Cap that I made from Cotton Organdy using the J.P. Ryan Dormeuse Cap pattern.

1795-1803 Silk Robe

2010-02-15T11:33:00.000-05:00

Pictures of the c1795-1803 reproduction silk robe.

1798-1805 Silk Gown

2010-02-15T11:31:00.000-05:00

A few pictures of the recently completed c1798-1805 Silk Gown.

1930s Dress Pattern

2010-02-12T11:42:00.000-05:00

Here's the sketch that I drafted my pattern off of. Speaking of darts: You can see the darts at the front and back. Actually they look like they're at the waist on the sketch, but since I'm rather long waisted and didn't make any adjustments for that, placing the seam between the points of the two triangles is at my waist. Confusing? It all works out - I like the seam between the two triangles rather than the darts anyway. :)

Finished 1930s Evening Gown

2010-02-11T23:09:00.000-05:00

Finally, the long awaited photos of the 1930s evening gown that I completed last week. I'm pretty satisfied with the way it turned out. Although I draped the dress on a school mannequin several years ago, there were few changes that needed to be made to the pattern in order for the dress to fit me - a bonus.

I added a seam at the waist area to smooth out a ripple that was forming there. The original sketch showed darts above the waist, but that seemed a strange location to place them. The waist seems a little more natural to me.

I love the diamonds at the side!

I added a godet train. I'm not sure if I like the way that the skirt falls -it may have looked nicer on the bias - but I tried to make it like the original sketch and pattern which was not on the bias.

I'm so glad to finally feel closure from this college class project! We were assigned to drape the pattern for this dress as a final project but I always wanted to see the realized dress. Now I can call it finished and add it to my Portfolio.

Next Project: 1930s Dress

2010-02-11T02:07:00.000-05:00

Listening to Enya themed music on Pandora and relaxing after a hard day's work. I spent the day draping a pattern for another 1930s dress. This is one I've wanted to make for ages! I have the perfect fabric - possibly the most beautiful fabric I've ever owned - that is exactly like the fabric of the original dress that I'm copying. I want to keep it a little bit of a surprise. But above is the inspiration for the piece. Beautiful, isn't it?

I have so many ideas swimming in my head! Sometimes I drive myself crazy with the ideas that are constantly popping into my head. One of my goals in life is to learn how to relax. Sleep is my only relaxation at this point...I always joke about getting in my 10 hours each night. I have four long lists of things I'd like to do when I get my Portfolio completed. A list for Sewing Projects for me, one for Sewing Projects for my business, one for Decorating Projects, and a third for Dinner Parties and Social Activities. I guess we'll see which projects win the competition in March.

1888 Dress

2010-02-09T00:32:00.000-05:00

The photo shoot this weekend went very well, so I have the first of three costumes to share with you. This dress is an 1888 dress based on a pattern in "Patterns of Fashion" by Janet Arnold. The costume was made for an 1888 immersion event in Gettysburg several years ago.

I'm very proud of the hat because I stitched the rows of straw together myself to save a little $$$. I'll admit, I was very tempted to purchase a hat from a milliner, but having the straw braid on hand, I set myself the task of stitching together my own hat. It was much simpler than I thought it would be, and I was very happy with the way it turned out.

Like originals that I've examined, the skirt has a brown polished cotton lining sewn into it with rows of metal hooping that can be tied into a semi-circular shape to form the bustle.

At the event, spectators commented most on my train, tapping me on the shoulder to let me know that my skirt was dragging on the ground. Yes, I already knew that...it's called a train. ;)

1860s Hoopskirt

2010-02-04T01:39:00.000-05:00

You probably don't know, but I first began my historical reproduction clothing business around 2003. I was seeking summer employment, and rather than work at some dead end job, I decided to put my skills to use making Cage Crinolines to sell. For me, making Cage Crinolines was right up my alley - using the drill, hammer, and anvil (although not all at once!).

I've been itching to try my hand at making a hoopskirt for some time. I've loved the colorful original hoopskirts of the 1860s. The above white and purple hoopskirt is from the book "Fashion," and the below illustration is from the book "Costume in Detail."

I'm very excited that I'll soon be able to offer 1860s hoopskirts for sale. I have two styles in mind. One will have many rows of boning while the other will have about half as many - more economical. I may want to make a third style, too! Can you tell I'm just crazy about hoopskirts?

Right now I'm working on a deep red cotton hoopskirt to replace my cage crinoline. The circumference will be 108". The fabric was purchased at JoAnn Fabrics in the Bottomweights section. I would have liked to find a striped material but there was nothing available at the time. There were, however, some very beautiful jewel toned fabrics in the Bottomweights section that seemed the perfect weight.

So far I've sewn the fabric of the hoopskirt together and sewn all the rows of prussian tape into the hoopskirt. Next I'll add the waistband, finish the hem, and add the boning. I'd like to hem the bottom in a waved style like the hoopskirt above. The hoopskirt below has a band of black velvet around the bottom which is also very pretty.

Original hoopskirt in brilliant Red Flannel.

1950-60s Evening Wrap

2010-02-02T21:42:00.000-05:00

I'm excited to share with you one of my latest thrift store finds! I love thrifting. I try very hard to keep myself from visiting Goodwill every morning...often I fail at this. Last week, while visiting my favorite store, I came upon this adorable Vintage black satin wrap from the 50s or 60s. Sadly it was missing the evening gown that went with it. For $5 I snagged myself a cute evening wrap to wear to the Symphony Orchestra on Friday night. I paired it with a black satin White House, Black Market Dress (also a thrifted treasure) and a Vintage necklace and I was set.

The wrap has short sleeves in it with a wide ruffled edge. I especially like the way it is open at the front neckline, allowing the dress and jewelry to show.

This picture shows the adorable wide ruffled edge on the wrap. The design is by Emily Wetherby. I'd love to make some variations on this cute wrap to wear with other sleeveless dresses. It would be cute in a shorter length, and also in different weights of fabric - knits, silks, sheers.

1930s Evening Gown Mock-Up

2010-02-02T21:30:00.000-05:00

Here is a picture of the 1930s evening gown mock-up. This is a horrible picture, but you get the idea.

I'm happy to announce that the dress is now completed. I had planned to take pictures tonight but I'm feeling a little under the weather. I promise to have Vince take pictures of it on me very soon! I love the way it turned out. The color is just perfect!

1930s Evening Gown

2010-01-31T22:41:00.002-05:00

Currently I'm busy working on sewing a glamorous 1930s evening dress. The pattern was draped for one of my college classes from the above dress sketch. The sketch is from the book "Practical Dress Design" by Mabel Erwin. Probably a 1930s or 40s edition. I chose a burgandy satin for the fabric. I had originally planned on using a perriwinkle silk satin, but the perriwinkle color didn't look that fantastic on me, so I decided to go with the burgandy even though it's not silk. The color reminds me of the stunning 30s dress worn by Kiera Knightley in the Chanel ad.

So far the trickiest part has been those godets on the front of the dress. I think I finally got them to have perfect points! Almost finished!

Regency Silk Dress

2010-01-26T23:41:00.001-05:00

c.1798-1805

Finally, pictures of the recently completed Regency Silk Dress. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

I'm thrilled with the lines of the back. The train seems to be the perfect length - awesome, since I had to cut very carefully to get all of the pieces out of the silk lining.

I didn't have quite enough fabric to line the sleeves as planned, but I really like how they turned out. I ended up using some plain sheer silk organza from my stash to line the sleeves.

A pearl button secures the bib-front.

Regency Silk Robe

2010-01-26T23:39:00.001-05:00

c.1795-1803

I finally own a Regency Robe! I've wanted one of these since 'Sense and Sensibility' came out ages ago. I always loved the peach robe worn by Kate Winslet as Marianne Dashwood.

The lovely pleated back. Pattern from 'Patterns of Fashion' Original.

Regency Dress Update

2010-01-20T00:01:00.002-05:00

Just a quick update on my progress with the Sheer Ivory Organza Regency Dress. I've been working diligently on sewing it and it is now all but complete. It has yet to be hemmed and then it will be finished. I will photograph both the Sheer Regency Dress and the Ivory Silk Pelisse shortly. The Pelisse was finished long ago but had not been photographed because I didn't have a dress to photograph or wear it with - the reason I made the Sheer Regency Dress. The Pelisse looked rather risque on the mannequin without a proper undergarment. Heh.

Aside from sewing I've been hosting dinner parties like a mad woman and working on updating my Portfolio. I'm super excited about this Civil War reenacting season as I already have a number of ideas for new clothing and accessories to add to my wardrobe. It's been sooo long since I've been able to look forward to a summer with this many reenactments to attend!

Introducing Vince

2010-01-08T12:50:00.001-05:00

I'd like to introduce you to my sweet husband, Vince. Our love of history brought us together six years ago and has continued to be a mutual passion. Vince is also a long time Civil War reenactor, portraying both Civilian and Military, and a graduate of Penn State University with a Major in History - among his other degrees. He is currently studying to earn a PhD in Business.

Vince will be a co-blogger here at blog.historicalfashions.com. I'm sure you'll find his witty posts vastly more interesting than my picture posts.

Welcome to the blog world, Vince!

(See Vince's 1st Post Below!)

What the Frick?

2010-01-07T23:34:00.006-05:00

Living a stone's throw away from industrialist Henry Clay Frick's Pittsburgh estate Clayton, we noticed his New York mansion-turned-museum in today's New York Times. We have yet to see the Frick Collection, but I'm sure it will be a destination next visit. If you're ever in Pittsburgh, though, be sure to visit Clayton.

Above: Thomas Gainsborough's "Mall in St. James's Park" (around 1783)

Patterns of Fashion Regency Dress

2010-01-03T22:04:00.002-05:00

The Sewing Room is cleaned up thanks to a little help from my Handsome. I was at a loss to determine how to properly store all of the fabric and decorations that I was trying to house in my Sewing Room. Handsome came up with a few very helpful storage solutions. I'll be sure to post pictures eventually.

Now I'm hard at work on a Regency Dress from Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1". I'm making the c1798-1805 "Morning Dress" on page 48-49. My dress is an evening dress though, so the pattern will be slightly tweeked to suit the fabric and style needed.

The fabric is an Ivory Sheer Silk Organza with Gold embroidered rectangles. Found at the PA Fabric Outlet in Leola, PA for $.99/yd...and I got a 50% employee discount, so it was $.50/yd - score! The Ivory Beaded Silk was purchased on Clearance at JoAnns several years ago. The Ivory Beaded Silk will be the lining for the dress. I considered removing the beads, but they looked so lovely showing through the sheer organza. The above original reminded me of the fabric that I will be using for my reproduction.

The dress is to be worn under the Ivory Pearl Beaded Silk Robe c1795-1803 from "Patterns of Fashion 1" page 44-45. I love the way it turned out! I can't wait to make more garments using that pattern. I made the Robe from Ivory Pearl Beaded Silk.

Here are a few links that might interest you if you're working on a similar project:

First, if you don't like enlarging patterns from grids, the same pattern as the "Patterns of Fashion" Morning Robe c.1798-1805 can be purchased from Reconstructing History.

Wearing-History c.1806-09 Dress from "Patterns of Fashion" Reproduction - Very Pretty!

Vintage-Textile Metallic Brocaded Silk Dress c.1810

And, 'Getting Dressed in 1805' by Koshkacat on Youtube - learn how to put on a drop front regency dress!