Watchismo Times - A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge designs of today

Perhaps, The Creepiest Watch Commercial Ever Produced! Diesel Timeframes Ad That Will Never Be Aired!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:25:23 PST

Yeah, it is likely this ad will creep you out but I thoroughly enjoyed it. A perfect blend of mental illness and style! Perversion-chic!

I mean, dig the guy fondling the oriental carpet with his supercool Diesel watch - you must own that!

And the guy who you know smells like pee just barely gets his nipple through the door! Where is his watch? Dare I ask?

The bar has been raised watch advertising world. Air this masterpiece during the Superbowl!

BLASTS FROM THE PAST - Strolling Down The Memory Lanes of the Watchismo Vintage Museum Pages

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:34:51 PST

Ok, I once used these pages to catalog and drool over time slipped through my fingertips these past 12 years online. Nearly all the watches from my now ancient Museum Pages are long gone - sold or in my carefully guarded personal collection, but the pages are worth revisiting for inspiration of all sorts. Hell, some of them are just downright ugly and worth a laugh. Enjoy!

LINK --> The Old Watchismo Museum Page 1
The Old Watchismo Museum Page 2

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Gerald Genta Arena Metasonic - Limited Edition of Ten at $900,000 Each!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 04:43:09 PDT

Limited Edition of 10 Pieces (MSRP (US$900,000 ea)

An alliance of tradition and engineering for the ultimate Grande Sonnerie, the most complicated of its kind in the world for over 15 years

The latest evolution of the Arena Grande Sonnerie, the Arena Metasonic raises the exclusive work of Gérald Genta to the realm of perfection. Launched as a wristwatch in 1994 and regularly improved ever since, the noble proprietary complication that was already considered beyond compare further enhances its pedigree by appearing in a revolutionary new case. An original material and unprecedented construction combine to ensure an enchanting chime, embodying progress stemming from in-depth acoustic and vibratory research that simultaneously overturns certain preconceived ideas.

Striking watches
Striking watches are classified into quarter, five-minute and most frequently minute repeater models, and Grande Sonnerie or “grand strike” variations can be triggered up to 35,040 times a year. They strike the hours and quarters automatically or “in passing”, as well as being systematically equipped with the minute repeater which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on request. The watch then successively chimes the hours on a low-pitched gong, the quarters on two, three or four gongs, and the minutes on a high-pitched gong. Grande Sonnerie watches are a long-established speciality at Gérald Genta. It has introduced a number of exceptionally complex wristwatch models since 1994. With their four hammers and their Westminster chime playing a different tune for each quarter, they represent 15 years of peerless accomplishments and are all the more remarkable in that they are developed on tourbillon movements. The Grande Sonnerie models comprise approximately 850 parts for the hand-wound models, 950 for the self-winding versions, and 1,100 for those equipped with a perpetual calendar. It takes around a year’s work to craft just one such watch, and only 61 in all have emerged from the Gérald Genta workshops since 1994. Connoisseurs, and especially master-watchmakers, unanimously confirm that it is not the accumulation of functions that makes a watch complicated, but instead the intrinsic complexity of the movement to be assembled and cased up.

Traditional movements
While Gérald Genta is a brand famed for its daring approach to watch exteriors, it is nonetheless extremely respectful of traditional horology, as is confirmed by the superlative workmanship displayed in its authentic Haute Horlogerie movements featuring a wealth of hand-crafted decoration and finishing. Among them are striking watches, which can be viewed as the last bastion of pure watchmaking artistry. Whereas virtually any other movements can now be industrially made and thus identically reproduced according to predefined criteria, a striking mechanism necessarily calls for manual intervention. The watchmaker adjusts the length of the gongs or their point of attachment in order to achieve the desired notes. This delicate exercise is generally performed by ear, with the inherent risk of never achieving the same result twice, even when the same person is involved. Gérald Genta therefore decided to solve this particular problem and its striking watches have now been effectively standardised to measurable norms for the past four years.

Standardised striking watches
Based on research conducted in cooperation with an acoustic laboratory, Gérald Genta has an exclusive software programme enabling it to measure the sounds produced in particular by its Grande Sonnerie watches. Three main criteria have been established. First of all, the intensity or the force of the notes: to earn approval, they must demonstrate a level of intensity sufficient to ensure they are clearly audible, but not excessively high in order to preserve their harmonic quality. The harmony or the correct pitch of the notes is then checked to ensure a sol (G) is consistently sounded for the hours, do, re, mi and sol (C,D,E and G) for the various combinations of quarters – more specifically mi-re-do-sol (E-D-C-G), re-sol-mi-do (D-G-E-C) + mi-re-do-sol (E-D-C-G), mi-do-re-sol (E-C-D-G) + re-sol-mi-do (D-G-E-C) + mi-re-do-sol (E-D-C-G) – and re (D) for the minutes. All are the notes are within the fifth and sixth octaves, ensuring they are low enough to be truly melodious. Finally, the cadence or regularity in milliseconds is verified according to defined intervals between each hour (628 ms), each quarter (427 ms) and each minute (509 ms). The goal is to ensure an harmonious sequence with clearly perceptible sounds. Thanks to these measurements, each completely independent of the others, Gérald Genta Grande Sonnerie models are now all of reliable equal quality. Fine-tuning by the watchmakers is still indispensable, but now converges towards common criteria guaranteeing a unique tune. It takes an average of 12 successive controls to achieve the desired result.

Superior quality
Each Grande Sonnerie watch reacts in its own way, according to the volume occupied by the movement within the case and the corresponding empty spaces; the materials selected and their treatment; the strength of the hammer; as well as a whole host of details such as the quality of the screws, joints and weldings. All these aspects have been meticulously reviewed by Gérald Genta in order to achieve the current degree of perfection based on these trade secrets which it is determined to safeguard. Nonetheless, one feature that can be revealed is that the gongs are now fixed to the side of the case and no longer to the movement, thereby considerably increasing the sound level. The improvements have been made both to the self-winding Grande Sonnerie model belonging to the Octo collection since 2003, and to the hand-wound Grande Sonnerie, an Arena watch introduced in 1999 and bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The latter is distinguished by its movement beautifully highlighting the striking mechanism through a broad dial opening on the left of the off-set hour and minute display. The back enables one to admire the tourbillon and follow the evolution of the two separate power reserves – 48 hours for the movement, 24 hours for the striking mechanism. A security system locks the crown each time the watch is in the process of chiming, so as to avoid accidentally damaging the striking mechanism.

The key assets of the Arena Metasonic
Having reached the peak of its art in mastering its Grande Sonnerie mechanism, Gérald Genta wished to provide it with a tailor-made case specifically developed to exalt its musicality. To achieve this, it cooperated with a French university in developing a software programme capable of analysing all kinds of materials. Gérald Genta has thereby created a testing system that evaluates a given material’s density, elasticity modulus and loss coefficient, a set of crucial physical parameters that determine the quality of the sound transmission and must be as low as possible.

Material Density(g/cm3) Elastic modulus (GPa) Loss coefficient 100 Index Acoustic Pressure (Force) 100 Index Acoustic Pressure (Melody)
Magsonic® 2.7 71 0.000080 100.0 100.0
Titanium 4.2 110 0.000027 77.6 44.7
Bronze CuSn8 8.2 100 0.000125 63.8 24.8
White gold alloy 15.7 107 0.000100 48.4 35.1
316L steel 8 200 0.000350 37.6 33.1

The first parameter that must be taken into account is density, which must be lower than 5 g/cm3. Among the metals most commonly used in watchmaking, only titanium meets this standard. It is only half as dense as steel, which itself is only half as dense as white gold. In terms of elastic modulus, which is considered to be of superior quality when nearing values below 100 GPa (gigapascals), white gold and titanium come very close to this threshold, whereas the values reached by steel are twice as high. As for the sound transmission loss coefficient, it is precisely measured in laboratory conditions – using calibrated bars that are made to vibrate by laser technology in a vacuum, thus ensuring the absence of any contact as well as free decay of the vibrations - and falls well below the maximum desirable level of 0.0002 as far as white gold and titanium are concerned, but not for steel. Results clearly prove that titanium and gold perform far better than steel, which is not particularly dense but is definitely more sound-absorbing than any other material (high loss coefficient).

Based on the objectives defined for each parameter, Gérald Genta decided to target excellence by creating an alloy of which the composition will remain a closely guarded secret. Duly patented under the name Magsonic®, it displays winning performances with a density of 2.7 g/cm3, an elastic modulus of 71 Gpa and a sound transmission loss coefficient of 0.00008 – meaning respectively 50%, 30% and 60% better than the parameters that were set as objectives. This material is therefore used for the case middle of the brand’s latest Grande Sonnerie model, the Arena Metasonic. The case middle is a crucial element in striking watches, since the sound tends to be diffused in a sideways direction. It is important to choose an appropriate material and to make it as thin as possible. Future owners will be delighted to note that the quality of the sound is even better when the watch is worn, a position in which its back rests against the wrist.

Moreover, Gérald Genta was able to measure the sound intensity (acoustic pressure index, force and melody) produced by various materials by using specific experimental containers. Results show that Magsonic once again surpassed the others, both in force (global sound intensity) and melody (effective intensity of the desired notes: do, re, mi and sol – C, D, E and G).

In addition to the major role played by the Magsonic alloy, this new model also features an original case based on a patented construction inspired by the side drums in a drum kit. The case middle is framed on either side by a bezel and back in grade 5 titanium secured from outside by means of specially designed pillars. This means the sound diffusion is undisturbed by any screws, and results in a highly original creation entirely in tune with the spectacular design characteristic of Gérald Genta models. The entire construction has also been rendered water resistant, because contrary to popular belief, non- watertight watches do not emit a better sound. The latter can even be perturbed by being forced through the bottlenecks created by the passage of air around the winding pushers. Some historical pocket-watches solved the problem by featuring openings spread all around them – a solution naturally unsuitable for wristwatches. The innovations presented here by Gérald Genta are a contemporary response to a desire to raise the bar as never before. They are the first fruits of a particularly ambitious research and development programme, and all-new striking mechanism designs are likely to be introduced in the near future.

A deliberately contemporary style
Measuring 46mm in diameter at the case middle and 50mm overall, the Arena Metasonic features a combination of vertical-polished and horizontal satin-brushed surfaces. It is fitted with an ostrich leather strap. The crown bears the individual watch number, while the striking mechanism controls serving to switch between Grande Sonnerie (grand strike), Petite Sonnerie (small strike), Minute Repeater and Silence modes are within easy reach on the opposite side. Gérald Genta has adorned the movement with an innovative wave-patterned motif as a nod to the propagation of sound. The jewels are in white sapphire to ensure an ideal visual match with the overall mechanism which exceptionally does not feature the “old gold” surface treatment characteristic of the brand’s signature “Potter finish”. This exceptional watch is also presented in a glass security box which renders it invisible until the owner pushes the biometrically programmed button that will respond to no other touch… The interior then lights up and the watch base is raised to bring it within reach. True magic for a watch blending the best of noble traditions and cutting-edge technologies.

Gerald Genta Website

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Horological Machine No.2.2 "The Black Box" A Collaboration Developed with Alain Silberstein

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 03:46:28 PDT

Simply black: Alain Silberstein’s surprise take on Horological Machine No 2

What happens when that master of glorious color, French high-end watch designer Alain Silberstein, is let loose with MB&F’s Horological Machine No2? The surprising answer is a new, all-black case that epitomizes Bauhaus purity and restraint. The new model, called Horological Machine No2.2, is known affectionately in-house as “the black box”. It will be issued in a limited edition of eight watches.

MB&F is a company founded 4 years ago by the former head of Harry Winston Timepieces, Maximilian Büsser, and is dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches in collaboration with talented professionals. The new case by Alain Silberstein houses the same groundbreaking “engine” as Horological Machine No2, introduced in 2008 and featuring the world’s first mechanical movement combining an instantaneous jumping hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, bi-hemisphere moon phase and automatic winding.

What a difference a “.2” makes!

Whilst the twin porthole dials are still the focal point – with the jumping hours in an aperture for the first time – the watch’s personality has changed completely. Gone is the science-fiction look of the original. Silberstein says that he wanted Horological Machine No2.2 to combine the pure geometry of the Bauhaus with the user-friendliness of the miniature box cameras of the 1940s.

The rectangular case is carved out of a solid block of titanium, resting on the original substructure. This multi-layered construction gives the watch its powerful, richly engineered profile. The simplicity of the case itself is deceptive: Alain Silberstein works with the light, like a diamond-cutter, to achieve a play of mat and polished surfaces when the watch is worn.

The titanium case is treated with an exclusive PVD coating incorporating silicium, resulting in a soft touch and particularly intense black color. The vibrant red numerals, markers and hands are coated in Superluminova for easy night reading. All the characters on the twin displays were designed by Alain Silberstein. Even the moon’s expressive face was inspired by a treasured cartoon from the Art Nouveau period.

Inspirations great and small

The brief to Alain Silberstein was typical of MB&F’s creative approach. Explaining the project, Maximilian Büsser says, “I simply gave Alain the watch and said: “Enjoy yourself! And he caught me completely off balance. He produced a black box, where I was expecting something very colorful!” This makes Alain Silberstein chuckle. “The truth is, when I saw the original case of Horological Machine No2 the miniature box cameras of the 1940s flashed into my mind. The portholes reminded me of the lens. I decided to construct a new personality for the watch, combining the user-friendliness of those cameras and the discipline of the Bauhaus movement.”

The pleasure of working together

Inscribed in the side of the case are the words: “Le vrai bonheur est d’avoir sa passion pour métier” (“True happiness is having one’s passion for a profession”). That is Alain Silberstein’s motto, and he found his soul mates in MB&F. He says that the whole point was the pleasure of working together, and Maximilian Büsser agrees. “Alain is a true artist, but he never takes himself too seriously. He has kept that childlike spirit of adventure, and that is something that we at MB&F hold dear”.

Alain Silberstein (pictured right) is French and his workshop is in Besancon. He trained as an interior architect and designer, but quickly turned his talents to high-end watch design. His masterly handling of geometry and colour translates into collections that sparkle with inventiveness and wit. Maximilian Büsser first spotted his work 20 years ago, when overtaking a BMW Z1, whose doors were down revealing the driver’s giant black chronograph. The look and size of that chronograph – years ahead of its time – decided MB&F’s future founder to keep a close eye on its creator, and he has done so ever since. According to Maximilian Büsser: “Every year, Alain Silberstein’s collections surprise me. He is a true artist, but he never takes himself too seriously. He has kept that childlike spirit, and that is something that we at MB&F hold dear”. A. Silberstein Website

A little over four years ago, Maximilian Büsser (pictured left) left what was considered a dream job, as head of Harry Winston Timepieces, in order to set up MB&F, a company dedicated solely to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches in collaboration with talented professionals. Or, as he says: “To letting my guts speak instead of my head” – a spirit shared by all the independent craftsmen, engineers and watchmakers who collaborate on his projects. Maximilian is half Swiss and half Indian and believes that this explains his constant drive to combine flawless traditional quality with creative imagination run wild. Horological Machines Nos. 1, 2 and 3 are the fine results to date. MB&F Website

Related MB&F, Max Busser, and Horological Machine Posts-->LINK

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Vannen Watches - New Brand Featuring Limited Edition Artist Watches by Buff Monster, Dirty Donny, Chris Ryniak, Brian Morris and Damon Soule

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 05:31:57 PDT

Created on the premise that this genre of wearable art would never get made otherwise, founder David Stowe and an amazing lineup of artists have come together to bring Vannen to life. The first collection of limited edition Vannen Watches features designs by Buff Monster, Brian Morris, Chris Ryniak, Damon Soule and an exclusive Halloween edition by Dirty Donny.

Individually inspected, assembled and packaged by hand in the USA, every watch is treated like a true piece of art. Each selected artist is given a plastic watch as a canvas to showcase their original artwork and connect with the world. Constructing wearable art that is both functional and accessible - but still exclusive - Vannen has given the public a fun new way to show their taste in art and fashion and support a new movement in artistic achievement. And all artists design their own custom packaging.

Artist designed custom packaging
(as cool to collect as the watches themselves!)

Based loosely around the Swedish word vännen (meaning "friends") brings some of today's best lowbrow art to wrists. Longtime watch fan and founder David Stowe wanted to fill the void in a medium that doesn’t always pair fashion with function, while incorporating his idea that working with friends helps people discover artists thus creating new friends.

Stowe also hopes that Vannen Watches will transform the insular nature of collectors. “If someone buys an art toy, book or print, it sits on their shelf collecting dust only to be seen by people who come to their houses. With our watches, you can show the entire world your taste in art and fashion.”

The inaugural series invites you to experience a new world where art meets fashion. And at $65 per timepiece, anyone can afford to have art wrapped around his or her wrist. Created on the premise that this genre of wearable art would never get made otherwise, founder David Stowe and an amazing lineup of artists have come together to bring Vannen to life. The first collection features designs by Buff Monster, Brian Morris, Chris Ryniak and Damon Soule.

Individually inspected, assembled and packaged by hand in the USA, every watch is treated like a true piece of art. Each selected artist is given a plastic watch as a canvas to showcase their original artwork and connect with the world. Constructing wearable art that is both functional and accessible - but still exclusive - Vannen has given the public a fun new way to show their taste in art and fashion and support a new movement in artistic achievement. And all artists design their own custom packaging.

The heart of Vannen Watches is to expose extraordinary artwork to people that may never have the opportunity to discover it, much less incorporate it into their lives. Each collection of watches is produced with one goal in mind – to support the global art scene by bringing awareness to each artist and invite the world to experience something new. Vannen is not only collectible art; it transcends all ages, genders and nationalities.

Artist Buff Monster

Buff Monster lives in Hollywood and cites heavy metal music, ice cream and Japanese culture as major influences. The color pink, as a symbol of confidence, individuality and happiness, is present in everything he creates. Buff is known for putting up thousands of silkscreened posters across Los Angeles and also in faraway places. When his original and one-and-only wheat paste brush was no longer usable, seven years of frequent poster missions came to an end. Having given up a very productive street art career, he now works exclusively on fine art paintings, collectible toys and select design projects. His works have been exhibited in numerous galleries, usually accompanied by large installations to enhance the paintings. Aside from his Happy Creamy Vannen watch, he has many other projects in the works.

Vannen "Happy Creamy" by Buff Monster

Watch packaging for Buff Monster's "Happy Creamy"

"It's a fun and happy design. I keep exploring all these other crazy themes in my paintings, but this is a core Buff Monster design. A watch is a really functional item, so you have to take that into account when you're designing it. And the packaging is really simple, but I really like the cardboard bubble pack that it comes in."

The art of Buff Monster

Artist Chris Ryniak

Chris Ryniak was born in 1976 in a safely distanced suburb of Detroit. He spent his childhood basking in the warm glow of Saturday morning cartoons, monster movies and flipping over rocks in search of insects and reptiles. In his teenage years, Chris' attention would shift to the world of skateboarding and the artists associated with the skate community, which later led to interests in commercial illustration. A graduate and former instructor at the Ringling School of Art and Design, Chris is now a painter and sculptor of all manner of critters that grace canvases as well as toy and print platforms. Chris' work has been exhibited in galleries throughout the world and his paintings have also been published in numerous books and periodicals. Chris currently resides in a coastal Ohio Dutch Colonial with his wife, two children, cat and frog.

Vannen "The Order of Things" by Chris Ryniak

Chris Ryniak watch packaging for
"The Order of Things"

"Chris Ryniak: The design is basically a carefully cropped version of my painting "The Order of Things." It was the first painting that I did that reflected my current visual direction, plus it was centered and had a face...like a watch. I had never given any thought to putting my art on anything that wasn't a large solid area (like a skateboard). I knew I wanted to use as much of one painting as possible, so I went through a lot of my paintings, trying to find the right one, and at the time, this one made the most sense to me to use on the watch."

The art of Chris Ryniak

Artist Brian Morris

Brian Morris lives on the southern side of Chicago, married, eats a lot of red meat, prefers pinot noir, favorite color is black, draws because he likes to, second favorite color is black, born in '76, works in advertising, '62 Cadillac in the garage, dead kitty's name tattooed on his wrist, doesn't believe in God, believes in people, heavy metal poser, country music, Sharpies, Faber-Castells, doesn't correct his drawings, tattoos, deep in love, early to rise, saver not a spender, knows you can't take it with you, raised in a small town, college degree, practice makes perfect, loves toys, collector of HotWheels, enjoys the darker side, steak, potatoes, breakfast with his wife at the Ramova Grill, not a big fan of TV, would go to bed at 9PM if he could, smokes too many cigarettes, doesn't smoke enough cigarettes, loves black cherry Kool-Aid, boobies, and he won't design you a tattoo.

Vannen "Time Waits For No Man" by Brian Morris

Watch Packaging for Brian Morris' "Time Waits For No Man"

"Brian Morris: Themes of life and death play a big role in the works that I create. This watch was an excellent opportunity to share my belief that "time waits for no man." I hope that each time the wearer checks the time they are reminded to make the most of every moment. Time will pass you by if you let it, but the end will not. [Watch design] has its challenges: The shape, materials and functionality were all things I'd not worked with before. The art was created in the same way I produce all of my drawings; it was the application that was real fun part."

The art of Brian Morris

Vannen "Square Takes The Circle" by Damon Soule

Watch packaging for Damon Soule's "Square Takes The Circle"

Artist Damon Soule

As a child Damon became so engrossed with drawing that it became a distraction; at age 16 he dropped out of school opting for the immediacy of a GED. At 19 he moved to San Francisco and enrolled in the Interdisciplinary Program at the San Francisco Art Institute. In 1996 Soule became the Art Director and Co-founder of FIT Skateboards and Civilian Clothing. After art directing the brands for a number of years, he sold his portion of the business to pursue art full-time. Soule's art has been featured in group exhibitions in San Francisco at 111 Minna Gallery, Punch Gallery, Southern Exposure Gallery, Culture Cache, New Langton Arts and Yerba Buena Center for the Arts. Recent shows also include "New Works by Oliver Vernon and Damon Soule" at BLVD Gallery and "Green Art Exhibition" at Robert Berman Gallery.

The art of Damon Soule

Introducing Vannen's first Special Edition Holiday Watch. And what better holiday to begin with than Halloween?

Dirty Donny (poster artist/fine artist/gearhead extraordinaire) was selected to create this extremely exclusive holiday watch because of his incredible repertoire of devious little monsters, ghouls and goblins. His characters and illustrations are notorious for their spectacular color and personality.

Only 150 of the Dirty Donny Halloween in black will be made!

Sealed Trick or Treat custom packaging
(with surprises inside!)

Donny’s creatures are sometimes playful-yet-spooky while others are just so wild and mischievous they almost jump off the page and bite you in the face. We knew a Dirty Donny watch would be perfect as a Halloween exclusive that's wearable all year long... and we were right! Donny's Halloween exclusive is a black and purple watch with flying bats all along the straps and a warped, twisted, ghoulish neon face on the dial.

This exclusive watch is limited to 150 pieces worldwide, but because we loved the art so much we decided to throw in a little treat and make another super-limited variant known as the "Toxic Chase" color way. The Toxic Chase watches are so extremely limited that only 50 exist in the entire world.

The extremely limited edition Toxic Chase by Dirty Donny

The art of Dirty Donny

Vannen's Halloween exclusive is packaged in an orange Trick-or-Treat bag filled with goodies!

Vannen Product Page Link
Prices start at only $65! Very cool collectibles...

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Art experts think they may have found the world's oldest painting to feature an image of a watch.

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 15:46:46 PDT

The portrait was painted in around 1560

Art experts think they may have found the world's oldest painting to feature an image of a watch.

The Science Museum is investigating the 450-year-old portrait, thought to be of Cosimo I de Medici, Duke of Florence, holding a golden timepiece.

Curators have sent their findings to renaissance experts at the Uffizi gallery in Florence, and are awaiting their comments.

The painting is being shown as part of the museum's Measuring Time gallery.

The first watches appeared shortly after 1500 in Germany and horologists believe the picture, painted by renaissance master Maso da San Friano around 1560, "may well be the oldest to show a true watch".

Coat of arms

Science Museum curator Rob Skitmore said the watch was thought to be from southern Germany.

"As Cosimo was a great patron of science and technology, it is entirely likely he would have owned a watch of this kind which he displays here with pride," he said.

"The picture shows the close linkage between science and art, especially in those days."

The painting has been in the museum's collection for 33 years after being acquired from a private donor.

As it was being taken out of storage for the gallery, curators decided to research the painting - which was when they made their discovery.

The clue to the painting's identity came when Mr Skitmore realised a seal containing the Medici coat of arms was on the back of the canvas.

He said: "In our painting Cosimo would have been about 41 and his appearance is entirely consistent with a later view of him from 1574."

The Measuring Time gallery traces the history of timekeeping and contains one of the biggest collections of clocks in Britain.

New from MB&F - A Teaser for the New Horological Machine Coming in a Few Weeks

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:59:15 PDT

Any Guesses? My first instinct was that it could be a Joan Mirólogical Machine or even better, an Alexander Calder inspired timepiece...I mean how cool would Calder's mobiles be in the miniature world of a watch? Ha... I actually know but I'm not telling until it is released on October 29th, stay tuned and see future teases here or at the Maximilian Büsser & Friends website.

Below is the first visual teaser/hint MB&F is providing...

MB&F website->LINK

Related MB&F, Max Busser, and Horological Machine Posts-->LINK

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Nooka ZAZ Watch Translucent See-Thru Display - Your Skin Provides the Contrast To Read the Time!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:03:32 PDT

Bars and blocks of liquid crystal line up over your skin with the Zaz, Nooka's latest alternative display binary wristwatch. And if in darkness, there is also the option to light up the see-through display in beautiful bright colors. Your only difficulty will be wondering if that arm hair makes it 8:45 or 8:50.

Actually, this reminds me of a stock answer I gave as a kid if someone asked me the time when not wearing a watch. I would look at my wrist and say "two freckles past an armhair". Who knew that could be true one day? Thanks Nooka!

Nooka Zaz Product Page

"The ultimate form of personalization. The Nooka Zaz is the newest release in the brand’s line of luxury wristwatches, set to launch for Fall 2009. Featuring a completely translucent display, allowing the wearer’s own skin tone to show through. Time is marked with a display similar to the Zenv style, with blocks appearing on the transparent screen seemingly as a part of the wearer’s wrist. It is available with a silver face and three band options- black or white leather, and silver mesh.

Size: 35 x 45 x 8 mm / 22mm wide band
Water resistant to 3ATM
$380 here

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Vintage LIP Watches - Rare Private Collection Available After Decades in Storage!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 06:43:21 PDT

A very rare private collection of vintage LIP watches are now available. Ranging from gunmetal and sterling silver pocket watches of the early 1900s to the iconic French designer series of the early seventies. Original Mach 2000 chronographs from Roger Tallon, very rare Prince Francois de Baschmakoff Jump Hours and some nearly singular examples from a rich history in time!

Above, a Sixties sterling silver LIP wristwatch with actual wood inlaid bracelet and wood dial. Never seen another like it, ever!

1974 Michel Kinn Lip Watch

Rudi Meyer's very unusual 70s "Galaxie"

1960s Minimalistic "Panoramic"

Unusual Mystery Dial "Ecrusson"
1970s Roger Tallon Design

Ladies Mach 2000

Uncommon Automatic Mach 2000

Early 70s Mach 2000 Moon by Roger Tallon

Rare prototype LIP Moonphase Mach 2000
(never went into production)

1975 LIP Mach 2000 LED
(light emitting diode)

1974 Tallon LIP Electrique

Super Swanky Sixties Ladies Lip Watches

Modern Design Sixites Ladies LIP

1970s "Galaxie" Automatic by Rudi Meyer

1970 47mm Valjoux Lip Chronograph

1970 Lip Automatic

1960s Sunken Hours Manual Mechanical LIP

1970's "Les Candides" by Michel Boyer
(beat Swatch by 10 years!)

Fancy Sixties Ladies Dress Mechanical

Seventies Lip "Instrument" by Rudi Meyer

"Hermes" Style 60s Lip Mechanical

Massive Seventies Lip Chrono

The Classic Lip Mach 2000 "Aeronef" by Roger Tallon 1974

The All Steel Lip Baschmakoff Jump Hour - 1970

Original 1969-70 Baschmakoff Leather

Early 20th Century Gunmetal Lip Pocketwatch

Antique 1920s-30s Sterling Silver Lip Pocket Watch

Salvador Dali's "La Prémonition des Tiroirs" Premonition of the Drawers 1973 Table Clock

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 05:20:24 PDT

DALI DIDN'T JUST MELT CLOCKS Y'KNOW...

"The Premonition of the Drawers" created by the great master of surrealism Salvador Dali, in 1973. This is the fifth in a series of eight such complex and vaguely menacing bronze forms based on a 1934 pencil sketch of a semi-reclining female figure with a number of partly open drawers, her throat and neck covered by her long hair. The head consists of an OMEGA electronic watch. The white Roman numeral dial with stick hands (special version) covers a "mouse" sonic resonator calibre 1220 whose case is held at the top by a single screw-in Catalan bean.

Salvador Dali, Paris

Longueur : 39 cm. Hauteur: 28 cm. Largeur : 20.5 cm.

1973

L'horloge est une sculpture en bronze patiné, vert clair, conçue par Salvador Dali d'après un dessin daté de 1934, La prémonition des tiroirs. Réalisé par le sculpteur Onelio Vignando, le bronze a été fondu par la maison Valsuani, à Paris. L'œuvre a été éditée en huit exemplaires, auxquels s'ajoutent quatre épreuves d'artiste, par la galerie André-François Petit à Paris.

Un modèle spécial de montre, munie d'un mouvement électronique à diapason, a été construit par la maison Omega afin d'être inséré dans la sculpture. Notons que le haricot qui la surmonte se dévisse pour permettre de l'enlever.

Dali développa, dans les années 1930, une suite de représentations allégoriques du Temps incluant des horloges et des montres.

D'après "Catalogue d'œuvres choisies"
Catherine Cardinal, Jean-Michel Piguet,
Éditions Institut l'homme et le temps, 1999

Greubel Forsey Macro Watch Videos, Prix Gaïa Awards, and Groundbreaking New Architecture

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 05:35:13 PDT

While Greubel Forsey is on the heels of winning one of the most prestigious horological awards, the "Esprit d'Entreprise" at the 2009 Prix Gaïa evening at the MIH Museum (La Chaux du Fonds), I decided to share some of Ian Skellern's (Underthedial) amazing macro videos of the Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel Sphérique and Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné.

Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel Sphérique

Video-->Link

Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné

Video-->Link

Video-->Link

In addition, Greubel Forsey just announced their new headquarters, also in La Chaux du Fonds. Symbolizing their impact on the horologogical landscape, their new building designed by Pierre Studer appears to have risen from the Earth (or fallen from my first impression). "Its original shape reflects a geological fold as seen in the topography of the Jura mountains, further enhanced by a ‘green’ or garden roof."

To me, I see a powerful new company so heavy in talent, the ground is unable to support them...

More about the MIH Gaïa Prize ;
The Gaïa Prize was created in 1993 by the Musée international d’horlogerie with an aim to honour prominent figures who have contributed and who contribute to the reputation of watchmaking – through its history, its technology and its industry. The only one of its kind, this Prize has the particularity of honouring the best of the best.

Greubel Forsey Website

Related Posts at The Watchismo Times;
All Greubel Forsey Stories
All Haute Horology Stories

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A Clockwork Black-Orange - Nixon's Cool yet Evil New Styles & Models

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 22:03:47 PDT

The 51-30 Black Orange Chronograph

Watchismo is proud to be the first to introduce the brand new Winter 2010 Nixon Black/Orange color collections (and a few entirely new models shown below). Spooky new color schemes, totally evil and fun.

The Nixon Decision (Brand New Model)

The Newton Orange Black Sunrise Mystery Dial

The Newton Digital

The Nixon R1G1 Retrograde

The 42-20 Chronograph
The 51-30 PU

The Time Teller

You Dirty Dirty Horologist - Hardcore Erotic Automaton Pocket Watches 1800s-Today

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:57:42 PDT

Antiquorum has offered a wide array of antique erotic automaton pocket dating from past three centuries. If you haven't seen these before, you might be shocked at how graphic these animated depictions were for the time. For additional examples, see my previous post on the subject here--> "Debbie Does Switzerland - Victorian Porn"

"Outside the Abbey Walls" (above)

Outside the Abbey Walls Swiss, No. 1339. Made circa 1910. Fine and amusing, large, 18K pink gold and enamel, hunting-cased, keyless minute-repeating pocket watch with chronograph and painted on enamel concealed erotic automaton.

C. Four-body, “bassine et filet”, engine-turned covers with polished borders, the front cover with a black champleve enamel monogram, polished band, gold hinged cuvette with painted on enamel erotic scene depicting two monks enjoying local hospitality in the woods. D. White enamel, radial Roman numerals, outer minute track and Arabic five minute numerals, outermost fifths of a second divisions, subsidiary seconds. Gold stone-set hands. M. 49 mm (21'''), rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 21 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut-bimetallic compensation balance with blued steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator, repeating on gongs activated by a slide in the band. Diam. 61 mm.

Detail of "Outside the Abbey Walls"

Auctioned for 25,000 Swiss Francs

Close-up of Automaton Erotic Scene at 6 o'clock

And of course, the tradition continues to this day, watchmakers create these erotic scenes on the "backsides" of the watches allowing only the wearer to know what carnal mechanics are occurring "under his dial"

N° 01, "Sailing Dream" by Antoine Preziuso

"Sailing Dream" No. 01 of a limited edition series of 30 examples. Made in 1997. Very fine and rare, tonneau shaped, center seconds, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with 42-hour autonomy and three color gold erotic automaton scene with an 18K yellow gold Antoine Peziuso buckle. Accompanied by a luxury fitted box.

C. Two-body, massive, polished, transparent case back secured by 8 screws, sapphire crystal. D. Satiné silver with painted radial Roman numerals, outer minute/seconds divisions; on the other side: a multicolor gold erotic scene animated by means of a mechanism hidden in the band and motioned by the winding-crown. Blued steel "feuille" hands. M. Cal. Based ETA 2801, rhodium-plated, "fausses côtes" decoration, 17 jewels, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. The erotic automata and the engraved background are in 18K yellow, pink and white gold. Dial, case and movement signed. Dim. 34 x 41 mm. Thickness 10 mm.

Close-up of "Sailing Dream"

Sold in 2007 for 15,600 Swiss Francs

And if you thought this was a perverted subculture of watchmakers, think again, the most respected watchmaker of all time, Abraham Louis Bréguet, watchmaker to Louis XVI and Queen, Marie-Antoinette also produced their own erotica-horologica, like this past auction below, by the way, it sold for 1,500,000 Swiss Francs (about a million dollars at the time in 1990):

Swiss, bearing the signature Breguet A Paris, circa 1825. Fine 18 ct. pink gold quarter-repeating watch with erotic automaton.And here is one upcoming auction for a simple pocket watch with a little hidden door revealing the happy couple. It will be held October 3rd in Geneva Switzerland and the entire catalog can be seen here--> Antiquorum Auction Link

via Antiquorum

Be Sure to Read All My Related Erotic Watch Posts at The Watchismo Times;
Debbie Does Switzerland - Victorian Porn
Sexy 1890 Daguerreotype Photo Pocket Watch
Time to F%&K - 1970s Erotic Watches

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Watch Lets Crowds Monitor Air Quality in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:12:10 PDT

The Green Watch

The project « green watch / Citypulse » was conceived under the programm Cities 2.0 of Fing (Fondation internet nouvelle génération). The aim is to multiply by 1000 the number of environmental sensors in the city, while encouraging people’s implication in measuring environmental indices, thus associating them directly to building a sustainable city.

The green watch comprizes a watch and two environmental sensors (ozone, noise). Data are regularly broadcasted via a mobile phone to an open platform called Citypulse which receives, stores and makes measure data available and anonymous. Data can then be used freely in order to be shown on maps, used in models, etc..

30 prototypes of the green watch will be tested in May 2009 by residents of the 2nd arrondissement of Paris (Digital District) and also during Futur en Seine, by highschool students of Montreuil (Maison Populaire), by researchers in the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie and by visitors of the wikiplaza, place de la Bastille. Maps made from data collected by these beta-testers will be available on the website

Air quality is a matter of urgent concern to residents of most large cities, and Paris is no exception. There are currently only 10 public sensors monitoring that important variable in the City of Lights, however, so a new initiative now aims to equip everyday citizens with a special device that can measure and report air-quality data regularly for collective use.

The Green Watch, or Montre Verte, is a specially equipped device worn on the wrist that includes not just a time piece but also a GPS chip, a Bluetooth chip, and ozone and noise sensors. At scheduled times—or on request of the wearer—the watch measures and saves air-quality and noise data, describing them in qualitative terms such as "good" or "bad." Those values are then returned to the user via the screen of his or her mobile phone in the image of an eye, where the colour of the eye's pupil indicates air quality while that of the iris represents noise. Finally, via the mobile phone, the watch sends the data to an open platform called Citypulse, either in real time via the mobile carrier or by synchronization when the user hooks the watch up to his or her computer. All measures are time-stamped, geolocated and saved; from there, they become available to anyone who wants to use them—and who has committed to an ethical charter. Potential uses include public matters such as mapping and citizen warnings, as well as business applications, such as services for people who suffer from asthma.

The Green Watch program is part of the Cities 2.0 program developed by FING, or the Fondation Internet Nouvelle Génération, as a way to increase the number of environmental sensors in Paris while also motivating citizens to take steps toward sustainability. Data from beta tests performed in May, with sponsorship from the Région Île-de-France and the Futur en Seine event, are currently available on the project's website. One to emulate—or sponsor—in a less-than-entirely-sustainable city near you...?

Website: www.lamontreverte.org
Contact: lamontreverte@fing.org

September, 23-25, 2009 : The Green Watch will be demonstrated and experienced by visitors of Picnic in Amsterdam 23 – 25 Sept 2009. Besides, Daniel Kaplan will speak during the Ecomap lab on the 25th September : the theme is : “how to map the environment (eg. energy, waste & mobility), aggregate the data and visualize it to promote behavioral change and reduce CO2 footprints”.

PICNIC is a unique festival and an inspiring conference complimented by a set of networking events and hands-on technology experiences for top creatives and innovation professionals in business, technology, new media, entertainment, science and the arts.

via Springwise (Thank you Patrick!)

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The HourGrass - Living Grass Wall Clock

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:21:07 PDT

DIY Grass Clock
(via Yanko Design)

Researching for this article I came across the Treehugger post on Ustatic’s Wall Grass Concept. You must understand this concept before you can digest the Hour///Gras Living Wall Clock. Based on Ustatic’s theory that growing grass at home is beneficial, this concept clock encourages you to grow either grass or other suitable plants in a stainless steel and glass body frame and hang it on a wall. The hour and minute hand pass over the patch of grass and trim it via their sharpened edges and help maintain a pre-set level of grass-blade length.

In case you sow wheat grass, you can consume the trimmings but for any other plant, just dispose of the clippings which pass through the grates at the bottom of the encasement into a slide-out container. On maintenance point of view, a watering basin is located at the top right corner of the frame and Ventilation grills run along the top of the structure.

Point is…do you need a grass patch in your home? If you do, then are you willing to do the labor? The only benefit I see of this clock is if you’re going to grow wheat grass (or similar); my parents swear by the benefits of consuming it.

Designer: J Yu

via Yanko

Sèvres Vase Clock - Knocks On Any Vase You Own For The Time

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:05:33 PDT

The Sèvres Vase Clock, a prototype by Georgios Maridakis, indicates the hour with an audible knock. Just place the vase of your choice on the brass and wood stand and the hammer will strike the vase each hour.

Each vase makes a different sound, but adding different amounts of water for different pitches and notes takes it one step further. The modern take on a grandfather clock is a subtle, unobtrusive way to indicate time—we'd add a few flowers too.

Designer Georgios Maridakis is currently finishing a stint at the Royal College of Art in London. Visit his site for more info on this and other projects.

Black & White Segment Digital Clock - Conceptual Design With Display Switching Colors From Day to Night

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 06:27:36 PDT

Digital clock: only figures, no case, only the necessary – only accurate time. Each figure has self-contained power supply and independent control, it can be fixed to any surface autonomously. A light sensor will switch the clock to an invert mode: the figures are white in the dark time of day and black at daytime.

Design: Vadim Kibardin

Size of one figure: 60 mm x 110 mm x 10mm

Colour: translucent white

Materials: polycarbonate, luminous part of figure - Organic Light-Emitting Diode (OLED)

Power-supply: lithium-ion accumulators

Control (choice of mode and time settings): touch-sensitive

From Kibardindesign.com

Kibardin Design's Black and White clock has four OLED digits equipped with light sensors, ensuring an appropriate color is always used. Kibardin is looking for a manufacturer.

via BoingBoing

Related posts at The Watchismo Times:
All Clock Stories

All Digital Clock & Watch Stories

Visual Voltage Displays Your Energy Usage Around the Clock

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 06:15:30 PDT

Sweden's Energy Aware Clock hangs on the wall and depicts a permanent visualization of your energy use. Every hour, it chimes to remind you to feel guilty about the size of your residence.

link - DesignBoom via BoingBoing via DVICE

Related posts at The Watchismo Times:
Green Eco Stories
All Clock Stories

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Smells Like Horology! Watch Brand Nooka Introducing Frangrances!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 14:06:12 PDT

Ok, now I've seen it all. All except maybe Rolex Jock Itch Cream or Swatch Breath Spray. Give it time...

Nooka eau de parfum communicates a universal language that transcends opposites. A synergy of scents, both familiar and foreign, instinctive and original, mental and physical, that come together as one. Japanese Yuzu sprinkled with pink pepper. Polished steel wrapped in vintage leather. This fusion of natural essences and synthetic accords creates the next generation of precious liquids, expressing each wearer's multi-faceted individuality. Developed and designed by Matthew Waldman and Pierre-Constantin Guéros.

Nooka Watches

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Watch Your Black - Sarpaneva Watches Introduces Moonphase iPhone Application

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:45:05 PDT

Sarpaneva Black Moon iPhone Application

Extending the award-winning communication design concept, Sarpaneva Watches announces the Sarpaneva Black Moon application for the Apple iPhone and iPod touch mobile devices, available now for free download at iTunes App Store.

Sarpaneva Korona K3 Black Moon is the first mechanical wristwatch to indicate the invisible and ever mysterious new moon. A moon phase during which Lilith, the seductive temptress of an ancient legend, preys on unwitting men. Now, the same function has been replicated on a mobile device to keep the holder vigilant of this hidden phenomenon.

Stepan Sarpaneva: "I am pleased how the Black Moon concept has attracted people the world over." Now Sarpaneva enthusiasts and watch owners can enjoy it on their mobile devices as well. Rather than content ourselves with just replicating the watch design, we decided to implement the wristwatch's unique moon phase functionality in a mobile application. We can now view the moon in much greater size and detail.

It is a friendly reminder of when Lilith is on the loose – and a handy tool to adjust your watch with.

Implemented by the Helsinki-based software development studio MK&C, the application also includes an option to subscribe the Sarpaneva Black Moon calendar for iCal, which informs about the days of the new moon.

Sarpaneva Watches

All Sarpaneva watches are designed and handcrafted by Stepan Sarpaneva himself. Born in 1970 to a Finnish family with a long heritage of craftsmanship, Stepan Sarpaneva's ambition is to create unique design, fusing timeless elegance with Scandinavian simplicity. Based in Helsinki, Finland, Sarpaneva Watches manufactures mechanical timepieces of outstanding quality, created in the spirit of the traditional watchmaker's art.

Read my original article on the Sarpaneva K3 Korona Black Moon
And all previous Sarpaneva watch posts at The Watchismo Times

LINK Sarpaneva Watches Website

The Korona K3 Black Moon Wristwatch

Follow Watchismo on Facebook - Win a Free $450 Watch!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:41:03 PDT

Watchismo is now officially on Facebook & Twitter, stay informed with the latest in the watch world from The Watchismo Times blog and all the latest additions to our Watchismo.com store!

One of our lucky Facebook fans will receive a Free $450 LIP Mach 2000 Aeronef Chronograph - brand new from Montres LIP France and reintroduced since originally designed in 1974 by famed French industrial designer Roger Tallon. (and for reference, here is an original model from the 70s) Lip History page link

Just click the link or logo for Facebook or just go to www.facebook.com/Watchismo and become a fan, we'll be picking (at random) one lucky winner for this free watch, no strings attached, just a thank you for staying connected to us and believing in our vision that cool & unusual watches can be affordable!

And a bonus for all fans, we will be announcing a 20% off LIP watches discount code just to you very soon, stay tuned!

The prize - Lip Aeronef Mach 2000 Chronograph ($450)

Time Out - Watchismo Times Video Picks of the Week

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 04:02:04 PDT

Christophe Claret Dual Tow Watch Video

MIH (Musée International d'Horlogerie) Watch Video

MCT (Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps) Sequential One Watch Video
and some vintage Timex Commericals from the 60s, 70s & 80s;

Enjoy!

Mr. Jones New Watch Releases - Always On My Mind & On Foot Watches

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 03:30:51 PDT

How does one follow up the hugely successful "The Accurate" (Remember You Will Die) watch? Well, the concept designer Mr. Jones of London has done it with the brand new "Always On My Mind" Watch. No longer being reminded of your mortality, but instead, constantly think of your immortal beloved every time you check the time. (Sugar cubes for extra sweetness not included)

Mr. Jones says, "This is a watch for the Romantic - the hour and minute hands for the phrase always on my mind. The watch gives a frisson of pleasure every time it is consulted and the wearer is reminded of that special person."

They are a limited edition series of only 100 models and each watch is individually numbered on the caseback.

Also just introduced (We're the first in the world at The Watchismo Times!) is the limited edition Mr. Jones "On Foot", the follow up to the highly conceptual "The Average Day watch".

On Foot displays the world record times for running different distances. Three arcs map the records to the hours, minutes and seconds on the watch. The outer arc shows records of less than 60 seconds: 100m, 200m and 400m; the sweep of the second hand corresponds with the span of each record. The two inner arcs align with the minute and hour hand respectively, for records of under and over one hour.

Ah, don't forget the now classic The Accurate. Be inspired by it, live your life like every second counts!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica 55 - The Most Complicated Trilogy of Watches Ever Produced!

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 03:27:52 PDT

Days ago at the Venice Film Festival, Jaeger LeCoultre presented (in a custom 2600 pound German Doettling vault shown above) by JL CEO Jérôme Lambert, the most complicated watches ever produced, the Hybris Mechanica 55 Trilogy.

via Perpetuelle

Regular readers of Perpetuelle Blog may recall that back in June First In Watches gave you the first look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie – a piece deemed at the time as the new “King of Complications” for its tally of 26 functions and 1300 components in one – yes one – single watch (if you missed this article go check it out now!). At this time we previewed not only the Grand Sonnerie but also the 2 other grand complications (the Gyrotourbillon and the Reverso a Tryptique that Jaeger-LeCoultre would be offering as a part of a 3-piece, $2.5 million set, complete with a 2,600 pound German-made Doettling safe (which by the way has a special sound system installed that enables the actual chiming of the Grand Sonnerie to be heard outside the safe even when it is securely locked!). The set was created in part to showcase Jaeger-LeCoultre’s greatest achievements over the brand’s long history.

At the time of our original article it was not clear to us what the significance of the number “55″ in “Hybris Mechanica 55″ was – but now we know. 55 is the total number of complications represented in this incredible trio of watches.

The Grande Sonnerie Movement

Now, as for those “26″ complications in the Grand Sonnerie (the left-most watch in the above photo)- we have seen Jaeger-LeCoulter’s official listing, which we present to you here:

1. Westminster Carillon

2. 4 crystal-gongs

3. Grande sonnerie

4. Petit sonnerie

5. Silence

6. Minute repeater

7. and 8. Flying tourbillon

9. and 10. Perpetual and instant calendar

11. Days

12. Retrograde days

13. Months

14. Retrograde months

15. Date

16. Retrograde date

17. Jumping hour and minutes

18. Regulation device with inertia-blocks

19. Strike power reserve indicator

20. Watch power reserve indicator

21. Secured incremental hours setting

22. and 23. Secured incremental minutes setting forward and backward

24. Striking mode selector

25. Instant minute repeater activation

26. Automatic modes’ switch

With such an amazing set of watches, there is so much to say, so little time to say it – but thankfully Jaeger-LeCoultre created a really cool website dedicated to the Hybris Mechanica 55 trio that says a lot already! The site is full of close up photos and explanations of the various components of thewatches, in particular the Grand Sonnerie – and so I highly recommend you check out it out by clicking here: Jaeger LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Trilogy Website

2009 Only Watch Presentation in Geneva - Underthedial Report from Ian Skellern

noreply@blogger.com (Watchismo) — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 06:22:21 PDT

Impressions and images from Geneva - Ian Skellern visits the "Only Watch" preview in Switzerland, weeks before the auction later this month in Monaco.

"I visited the Only Watch 2009 exhibition at Patrizzi & Co's Geneva show room yesterday evening and despite the crowds managed to take a few photos."

Patrizzi & Co Geneva is in a beautiful pedestrian only street.

Here are a few photos of the timepieces at the recent Only Watch Geneva exhibition at Patrizzi & Co.

THE WATCHES

Hublot. If (like me) you sometimes think that it must be virtually impossible for Hublot to come up yet with another interesting variation of the same watch, they do. Nothing out of the ordinary, but a striking design.

Jaquet Droz. Jaquet Droz are starting to make stunning fired-enamel dial look easy, but it isn't. The ceramic case should ensure that this watch looks as good in 20 years as it does now.

Louis Vuitton. Turning cubes to tell the time made me think of URWERK, but neverthless it was good to see that Louis Vuitton make an effort to realize something truly unique and not just a new dial on an existing watch.

MB&F. It was as interesting eavesdropping on comments as looking at the watches and nowhere more so than the MB&f case. 'Is that a butterfly? Is that barbed-wire? Gruesome! How could you possibly wear it? It's fantastic!' The negative comments I heard easily outnumbered the positive by a factor of 5 to 1, but I am sure Max Büsser was smiling because in my short time there, more people were talking passionately about this watch than any other.

Montblanc. The dial is too busy for my taste, but there is no denying the quality and superb finish of this Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Open Date. If the bidding is related to name length this will be a winner.

Omega. The Omega Ploprof wins my 'What were they thinking?' award. There is nothing I like about the design of this watch, but then, I've never been accused of having impeccable taste. It is certainly a watch that attracts the eye.

Girard-Perregaux. At first glance I was disappointed in this watch as I expected more from Girard-Perregaux, but the more I learned, the more I liked it. The world time should be a useful complication for the type of people likely to be bidding and the ceramic case looks sublime.

Franck Muller. This was another brand I feel might have done more. A few brands really excelled themselves and that really raised the bar for the others. No doubt this is a very special watch, but if I saw it on somebody's wrist, I'd think 'Franck Muller', and not 'Wow! What's that Franck Muller?'

Franc Vila. This watch was another contender for my 'What were they thinking?' award and I nearly laughed out load when I first saw it. But then the originality of the design slowly won me over and, while it would not be a watch found on my little wrist, it does have something of the iconic Ikepod about it.

deLaCour. I think that you are either a deLaCour fan or you're not. There is no middle ground. And when you think that large unusual watches no longer have the power to surprise, one does. Unfortunately, this one did not surprise me in a positive way as it was far too big and far too busy for me.

De Bethune. If I had to pick one watch here for myself, it would be this sensational De Bethune pocket watch.

Corum. This was another favourite. With this watch Corum have taken their single bridge into the 21st century.

BNB Concept Confrérie Horlogère. If I could have chosen two to take home, this would have been the second. Great design and fascinating to look at. I loved it!

Chaumet. We do not hear much about Chaumet's watchmaking so it's good to see them step out onto the stage. Simple, but elegant with an interesting case shape.

Chanel. Another watch obviously meant for another audience, not me. There are interesting elements in the watch, especially the ceramic bracelet, but I just don't 'get it'.

Cartier. The three different dials of this Cartier Santos would normally be enough to provoke a 'Wow!' from me, and it did when I saw it (different designs) at the SIHH earlier in the year. I expect more than a unique dial design (or three) from Cartier. Nice watch but I'd like to see Cartier stretch themselves a bit more next time.

Cabestan. Now I love the Cabestan, but this is another watch that disappointed. I expect much more - and perhaps unfairly- of an 'Only Watch' than a unique piece, I expect the watch to be truly distinctive and to make a strong statement. The 'normal' Cabestan already makes such a strong statement that a special model has to be much much more. I love this watch, but want much more.

And this is just plain greed talking because for all of the brands involved, especially the smaller ones, just the fact of donating a watch, let alone developing a unique piece, is a major commitment in itself and one we should all be grateful for, but . . .

Breguet. This was another favourite and I felt that Breguet got the spirit of 'Only Watch', not to simply make a one-off, but to make something truly unique.

Bovet. When I saw this watch I didn't think 'Mona Lisa', my first thought was 'Pascal Raffy' (CEO of Bovet). This watch is the essence of Bovet and is certainly the essence of Pascal Raffy.

Blancpain. I am not at all a fan of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, though I appreciate that I appear to be in a minority. However, this one - the 500 Fathoms -I like.

Bell & Ross. The exception that proves the rule? I have said that I expect Only Watch timepieces to offer something more than a new dial variation, but this diamond-encrusted skull and crossbones makes such a bold statement that nothing more is needed. It's not for me, but I'm sure somebody will love it (and hopefully two people to drive up the bidding).

Audemars Piguet. Take a beautiful Audemars Piguet Equation of Time and add 'ONLY WATCH MONACO12h30' is big capital letter at the top of the dial: What on earth were they thinking? There is so much on this this watch that is so right, but can you appreciate the dial without having your gaze drawn continually to the headline at the top? I can't.

Zenith. If retro is the new contemporary, then Zenith is onto something. I wonder if this watch signals a new direction for the brand (I hope so).

Van Cleef & Arpels. Here's another watch proving what a hypocrite I am. 'Midnight in Monaco' is hardly an inspired variation of their Midnight in Paris, but with every Van Cleef & Arpels complication I see, I cannot help but feel that they have no peer when it comes to crafting interesting and absolutely beautiful watches for women. I am sorry my photography let this watch down, because it is poetry (but they should do more next time).

Vacheron Constantin. Come on Vacheron, take a watch, the Quai de l’Ile, which has been designed to make unique variations and make a - gasp !- unique variation. I know that there is a bit more to it than that - tantalum and palladium are very difficult case materials to work with - but it just doesn't look different enough to me. Vacheron Constantin merits being held to a higher standard and they didn't reach that for me with this model.

Ulysse Nardin. What has saved me saying the same thing about this Freak than I said about the Cabestan is that the Freak has been out of the news longer, so seeing it again after a break, especially in this black-dialed rendition, had the power to shock.

Hermes. For a company famous for their leather goods, this alligator-clad 8-day travel clock appears to be appropriate and something different.

Please bear in mind that the opinions expressed above are the result of a fairly quick walk around a hot and crowded exhibition. I am well aware that my views are inconsistent (but hey, so am I) and they may well change . . .in fact some views are starting to change already.

I strongly recommend that you visit the Only Watch 2009 website and click on any image to learn more.

The Only Watch 2009 world tour was in Geneva recently and if the number of guests at Patrizzi & Co's Geneva show room yesterday evening was indicative of interest, the charity auction has every chance of being a big success.

Patrizzi Auction Website --> LINK

Ian Skellern's original Only Watch 2009 exhibition in Geneva post & Watch Photo Post via Horomundi

Ian's Underthedial Facebook page --> LINK

Related Posts;
All Current and Past "Only Watch" Auctions
Haute Horology Stories

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