The Vespa Home

Vespa Scooter Longings

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:50:00 -0700

One of the most enduring scenes in cinema is in the classic film Roman Holiday. The film starred the immortal and ever beautiful Audrey Hepburn (Oh how I love her!) and the talented Gregory Peck. Hepburn played a princess who was visiting Rome for a state visit. Tired of her strictly regimented life, she escaped the confines of her embassy, disguised herself as a commoner and began touring the streets of Rome. There she met Gregory Peck who played an American correspondent in Italy. The movie was basically a sight-seeing tour of the streets and Rome, but it is very memorable because they both toured the scenic spots in a Vespa scooter.

This singular scene catapulted the Vespa as a cultural icon. Though the movie was not really what you call a happy ending for they both did not end up with each other (oops sorry for ruining the plot to those who have not seen it), generations of girls dream of becoming Audrey Hepburn being swept away by their own Gregory Peck driving into the sunset in their very own Vespa.

Vespa scooters have their cult following. Like the Volkswagen or the Mini Cooper, Vespas are liked because of their unique (some consider cute as the more appropriate description) design. Vespa’s design was derived from wasps hence the name. As a matter of fact, wasp if translated into Italian is called vespa. The Vespa was first made after world war two and since then its design saw little deviations. Scooters are perfect for the old narrow and cobbled Roman streets. It reflects the olden times when people are gentler, the days seemed slower and the air was full of romanticism. From those famed cobbled streets Vespa spread throughout the world. Perhaps because this little mode of transportation is perfect for weaving in and out in today’s heavily congested roads or perhaps Italians are really talented designers of vehicles. (I am sure most of you will agree with me on this point. I have yet to meet somebody who finds the highly desirable and exotic Ferrari sports cars as ugly.)

Ever since I had seen a Vespa in Roman Holiday, I always wanted to buy one for myself. There were only two problems that presented themselves to me. First, there is no Vespa being sold in our region and second, even if there are Vespas in our island, I cannot afford one. The closest things that resemble a Vespa in our place are the delivery scooters of Yellow Cab Pizza. I even joked to my cousin that we should steal one, remove the delivery compartment at the back and repaint it with any color not yellow. I would even dream of accessorizing them with parts from scooter, but of course I know that all this will just be a dream to me. Maybe in my mind’s eye, I see myself also driving a Vespa, sweeping my own Audrey Hepburn off her feet and we will both ride off into the sunset.

David Scott is the writer and webmaster of http://www.myscooterparts.co.uk a distributor of VE UK parts & accessories dedicated to offering an efficient and cost effective service online.. He likes to discuss more about Scooter Parts and various accessories of Scooter. To see more about visit the Website.

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Discovering the Sights of a Roman Holiday

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:39:00 -0700

It may be more than fifty years since the classic film Audrey Hepburn, Roman Holiday was made but you will still find the vibrant city of Rome offers you an ideal escape.

Indeed, locals and tourists alike still find a Vespa ideal for navigating the city; if you want to emulate Hepburn and her co-star Gregory Peck just ensure to have good road sense. Therefore, begin your trip by heading for the Colosseum on Piazalle de Colloseo to soak up its ruined grandeur. Built in 80 AD it could accommodate an impressive 80,000 spectators and be sure to visit its Museum of Eros, especially if you are enjoying a romantic break.

A little further on is the Palatine Hill. The most central of Rome’s seven hills, it is also the ancient heart of the city. From its heights you can visit the Roman Forum, where Princess Ann first meets Joe Bradley, the reporter after fleeing her gilded prison.

Follow the route along Via dei Fori Imperial towards the baroque Trevi Fountain. Princess Ann has her hair cut in a barber’s shop here, and it also features in Fellini’s ‘La Dolce Vita’ and ‘Three Coins in the Fountain’, so throw in a coin yourself to ensure your return to Rome.

Continue on to the impressive Spanish Steps, where you can still buy flowers, as in the film, and take in the luxurious displays of the upmarket shops on Via Condotti. Be warned though, the prices are as steep as the steps, so you may want to stick to window shopping unless you have a deep purse.

Perhaps the most famous moment in ‘Roman Holiday’ involves the ‘Mouth of Truth’ (Bocca della Verita); according to legend the mouth can detect lies if you place your hand in it. If you dare to copy Audrey you will find the sculpture at the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. The unnerving head with its open mouth dates back to ancient Rome and the myth around it has grown since medieval times.

Santa Maria stands close to the River Tiber and you can follow the Lungotevere which winds along its banks. Stop off in the cobbled streets of Trastevere to explore its charming cafes, bars and restaurants and then continue on to the Ponte Sant Angelo, where Audrey danced her night of freedom away on a decorated barge.

Of course, there is much to see and do when visiting Rome, so be sure to allow time to uncover its Renaissance art, stunning architecture, modern shops and vibrant restaurants and bars. At times it can prove difficult to fit everything into a visit to such a large city; however, it is good to know that you will find plenty of central accommodation, and also hotels near Rome if you would prefer to avoid the crowds.

And whether you choose to revisit the popular landmarks that helped make Roman Holiday famous, or perhaps even create your own itinerary, you will find there is much to explore on a trip to Rome.

Andrew Regan writes for a digital marketing agency. This article has been commissioned by a client of said agency. This article is not designed to promote, but should be considered professional content.

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Scooter Wraps - An affordable alternative to airbrushing

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:30:00 -0700

Customising scooters has been around almost as long as the popular 2 wheeled transports themselves, with it taking off vastly during the mod-era of the 70's. Scooterists added mirrors, badgers, chrome, and engine goodies to name a few, but modifying the scooters paintwork and look has always been out of reach for all but the most dedicated scooter enthusiast due to the extortionate costs of airbrushing and painting.

Traditionally the scooter would have to be completely stripped down to a bare frame and panels, then painstakingly sanded flat before painting a base coat and lacquer on again, and that's just changing the colour; if a scooterist wanted to add any artwork or decals these would then require further work as the painter needed to hand mask basic shapes and then meticulously add in further detail completely by hand bit by bit, having to wait in between colour changes for the paint to dry and so forth. Needless to say this is a very skilled task not for the faint hearted and hence the price has always reflected that, with many airbrushing jobs costing thousands of pounds.

With modern large format printers however, there is another option; vinyl wrapping. This process involves digitally creating the design, or even using a digital or scanned photo, and then printing it out onto large sheets of adhesive vinyl, these are them laminated to increase durability by protecting about UV and abrasion and then "wrapped" around the scooters bodywork. Although this is still a skilled task within itself, as the installation usually requires 2 people to position the vinyl and control the contours it wraps around by using a heat gun, the task is nowhere near as complicated as traditional painting and airbrushing, and hence offers massive savings on price.

Not only this, but since everything is controlled digitally in the design phase, it can offer complete photo realism and super accurate detail compared to airbrushing, where it has always been limited by the skill of the artist and how fine their tools can go. Combine this is the ability to digital proof everything and vinyl wrapping allows you to see how your finished scooter will look before anything is even printed, taking any surprises out of the process.

Then at the end of the day, perhaps a few years down the line when your scooter has been like that for a while, you can always remove the vinyl wrap and put another one on!

Cleaning The Top-End (Decoking)

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:40:00 -0800

This tutorial will demonstrate the process of decoking the top end, or removing the carbon deposits from the engine. This is a standard maintenance and should be performed every 6000km (4000 miles), or every year for machines that are never heating up (quick hops about town). It will be virtually impossible to get all the crud off of the engine parts, so don't be overly compulsive about it. Though the process seems daunting, like putting a wheel together, it is one of those chores that you will be able to fly through after your first go. I would give it a few hours for the first time. I hear some asking, "why should I do this; my engine runs fine?" This procedure is important because of the heat and power restrictions a two stroke engine has to contend with. By letting junk build up on the piston, cylinder and head, you are effectively decreasing the fuel capacity of your motor (ie 200 cc to something slightly less). Since waste carbon, commonly called coke, is left from burning two stroke oil, the engine will suffer from an overly "rich" condition and generally run badly or start hard. A few signs that your top-end may need to be cleaned are oily, constantly fouling spark plugs; hard starting (more than 4 kicks) and lots of exhaust smoke. I would reccomend you preced this operation with a carb rebuild when attempting for the first time. Synthetic lubricants will increase the period of this procedure, but it is still worthwhile to consider attempting every year. This procedure is best done in a covered, well lit area (like a garage) so no crap gets into your top end.

Tools & Parts Needed
Multi Screwdriver
Spark Plug Wrench
Disposeable Shop Towels
A can of Carb Cleaner
A Tube of Anti-Sieze Lubricant
13mm and 11mm Deep Socket
Torque Wrench (Absolutely neccessary, DO NOT perform without this item)
Plastic Bondo (Body Filler) Scraper
Plastic "Wire" Brush
Tub of All-Purpose / Bearing Grease ("Green Goop")

Procedure

Step 1

Undo the arrowed screws and the flywheel shroud will fall right off. Put the shroud and all the little screws in a safe place (or sand it down and paint it if you have a day or two).

Step 2

Gently prise off the spark plug connector and put it one side. Undo the Shroud bolt right next to the spark plug. Unhook the air bellows from the frame and push it to one side. Slide the cylinder shroud off of the engine by pulling towards the front of the bike. You should now be able to see the cylinder. Remove the sparkplug with the sparkplug wrench.

Step 3

Remove the nuts by loosening them slowly in this order. Do a quarter turn, go to the next, quarter turn, next, quarter turn, next, etc. until the nuts are removed. This will take a while, but you risk bending the aluminum head if you don't do them in small steps and in order. The same is true for tightening. Carefully collect the hardware and remove the cylinder head.

Step 4

Since the flywheel is connected to the crank, you can raise and lower the piston simply by turning the flywheel by hand. To start, position the piston to the top of the bore. You are now ready to start cleaning.

Step 5

With the piston at the top of the bore, rub a ring of all purpose grease around the circumference of the piston head. This will catch any little chunks of carbon. If your piston is totally coated in carbon (like mine) use a plastic scraper to get most of the crud off. When you are done scraping, remove the remainder with a plastic "wire" brush. Metal is NOT reccomended.

Step 6

Wipe off all of the grease from the scraping. To clean the sides of the piston and bore, apply another ring of grease and turn the flywheel slowly. The piston will recede into the bore. Go halfway down, rub away some of the grease with a disposeable towel then go to the bottom and repeat. Keep re-applying grease until the metal on the bore is clean.

Step 7

To clean the cylinder head, use copious amounts of carb cleaner and shop towel, the carbon doesn't tend to stick quite as badly to the head and there's more room to work on it. This part, if any, should be sparkly aluminum grey by the end. Once you finish cleaning the head, spread some anti sieze lubricant (stops threads from stripping) on the thread on the cylinder studs.

Step 8

Put the head back on. Hand tighten the screws in order until each becomes snug. Then, using the quarter turn method, tighten the screws with a torque wrench, in order, using a torque of 1.7-2.2 kgf m (12.30-15.91 lbf ft). Re assemble the bodywork in the reverse order. Install the Spark Plug last and reconnect the bellows be stretching the rubber around the lip on the frame.

Once all the panels are back on the bike, kick start the engine as usual. The engine should roar to life after a few kicks. If the kickstart lever doesn't feel firm or if the the engine will only run when the choke is turned on, you have an air leak. This will probably be caused by the sparkplug not being tight enough (*The plug is touchy, don't tighten it too strongly or you will rip the threads out of the aluminum*). If you did rip the threads, there will be a leak around the damage -- take the piece to a machine shop and have them install a "helicoil insert", and remind them of the fact it is a cylinder head so they can use a high heat transfer coil. This will replace the old threads and make a much stronger thread. If the plug IS seated properly, the cylinder head may be warped from improper tightening. IF YOU FOLLOW THE RULES, THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN. However, if it is warped, you will need some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass. Tape the paper to the glass and wet it. Hold the cylinder head in your palm and rotate the bottom on the paper until it is flat. Once you are done remount it and try again. This maintenance should be done yearly for year round riders, every 6000km (4000 miles) for the "rally only" types.

www.vespamaintenance.com

Vespa P200 Two Stroke Primer

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:27:00 -0800

Welcome to my primer on two strokes. The Vespa P200 engine is a good example of a by the book rotary valve two stroke. There are only 3 moving parts in the engine's top end: no pushrods, no camshafts, no lifters, nothing you would expect to see in a 4 stroke automobile engine. In this document, I hope to enlighten even the mechanically inept on how these beasts work.

If you have ever gotten that feeling that people around you are speaking an alien language when it comes to their bikes, they're probably talking about the engine. :) Never fear, however, I have the cure. Let's have a look at the parts in the engine top-end:

First thing on the roster is the barrel, or bore, or jug - however you may have come to know it. This is the container that holds back the huge forces behind the combusting gas and directs them to the piston. This part is centered with cylinder studs and is highly polished (or honed) to allow the best seal possible. If the polished area is scratched or burnt from overheating, it can be fixed by oversizing. Oversizing can be done at specialty shops and involves machining a larger hole through the bore and buying a larger piston to fit.

Secondly, we have the piston. The piston is made of aluminum alloy and moves up and down inside the cylinder barrel, channelling the force of the combustion into the rod beneath it: the connecting rod. The rings that skirt the piston head are called piston rings. The piston rings form a tight seal to prevent gas from escaping and center the piston head in the barrel. The gudgeon pin, or wrist pin, connects the piston head to the connecting rod.

Speaking of the connecting rod, we will look at that for a minute. The connecting rod is also made of a light metal and transfers the power from the piston and pushes on the crank. There are two bearings on the connecting rod, or con-rod, the small end bearing, or the wrist bearing; and the big end bearing, or the crank pin bearing. These bearings allow a nice circular motion that occurs as your piston moves up and down inside the cylinder.

The crankshaft, or crank is another moving part within the engine. This component has an offset point, called the crank pin , inside it which turns the up-and-down motion of the piston into rotational motion necessary for gears and wheels. The crank is usually made of a really heavy metal, like steel. The crankshaft also plays a part in injecting the gas into the expansion chamber (the place where the piston lives).

The combustion chamber is the place where the compression and combustion of the gas mixture occurs. This part is in the head of the cylinder and looks like a hemisphere (see below). This is the part that your spark plug threads into.

The expansion chamber is the length of the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe is approximately 12 times the volume of the displacement of your engine and is 'tuned' to give you the largest power bands. The reason for this phenomenon is that the expansion the combusting of gas is turned into force on the piston, but the gases from the combustion have to escape before the engine can take in new gas. The onus is on the exhaust to facilitate quick removal of the expended gas. The exhaust itself will be tuned such that it will contain exactly the right amount of waste vapours. This creates a pressure difference, that lets some of the exhaust gases leave the pipe and the some get pulled back into the cylinder with the new charge. The strength of this back pressure will result in better or worse performance from your motor. This is why better (tuned) exhausts are soughtafter: the stronger the back pressure, the more efficiently the engine works.

When people talk about 'good compression', they are indicating that the engine is probably in good health. Good compression means that the piston rings are well compressed and sealing properly, the cylinder head and bore are sealed well, the spark plug is tight, the engine seals are tight and the exhaust is providing good back pressure. You can test compression with a compression tester. this device measures the change in pressure when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder. A stock vespa engine typically has a compression of about 120psi. It takes 90psi minimum to start the bike. You can change the compression ratio of the motor by using different cylinder heads and maintaining the piston rings. This higher the compression ratio, the more pressure you will get, but heat will build up faster.

Induction

The engine on the P200 uses a 'disc valve' carburettion system and a 'rotary valve' induction system. What the hell am I talking about? I will explain. Disc valve induction from the carburettor is the slide moving in and out of the venturi letting more or less gas get through the hole in the bottom of the carb. Conversely, Rotary valve induction is the cut-out in the crank (you can see this if you turn your flywheel with the carb disassembled) that pulls in the gas being let through the disc valve at exactly the right time.
The efficiency of the rotary valve's seal is based on the rotary pad. the rotary pad is directly below the carbuerettor inlet. This is an extremely high precision part of the motor. if it becomes scratched or dented from an engine failure, the motor will not seal well and you'll lose what is known as primary compression, the compression caused by the rotary valve and engine pressure.
The engine demands a certain amount of fuel from the carb by forming a large low pressure reigon. this low pressure draws gas and air through the carb and into the motor. As the rotary valve closes, the piston has lowered in the cylinder and thus the pressure in the cylinder has changed. Therefore, the fuel mixture rushes into the cylinder. The pressures in the motor move the mixture up through the transfer ports, or channels in the bore, and onto the piston head. The purpose of the fuel mix is two-fold. Obviously, the gas is going to be burnt; however, before that happens, the two stroke oil in the gas lubricates everything it touches. The two stroke oil also forms a heat resistant shield over your piston, protecting the head surface from the gas explosion. Unlike a four stroke engine (like that in a car), a two stroke engine top-end is NOT lubricated by the gearbox oil. This is why two stroke oil has to be added to the gas. If there is no two stroke oil, or you are 'running lean', your engine will very quickly overheat and seize, and/or blow a hole through the piston.

Compression

With the gas collected, the piston continues it's travel up the bore. The heavy flywheel turns the crank and pushes the con-rod, and subsequently the piston, to the top of it's travel. As the piston reaches the top, the gas becomes compressed against the hemispherical area called the combustion chamber. Now we get into timing. When we talk about timing, we are observing the firing point of the spark plug. Ideally, the firing point should occur as the piston reaches the top dead center (TDC) of its travel. The high voltage electronics that control this firing point a take a few milliseconds to develop a spark across the spark plug. Because of this delay, we have to offset the timing to make up for it. This offset is usually measured in degrees and sets off the electronics before the piston actually gets to TDC. The spark plug develops a huge voltage and arcs through the gas, positively combusting all the gas and putting a large pressure on the piston head. This gives rise to the Power stroke.

Power Stroke

The con rod, connected to the piston and crank, transfers energy of the blast from the piston head to the crankshaft. The crank coverts the strong linear forces into equally strong rotational forces. This is where the engine develops all of its power. By the time the piston opens to the exhaust port again, the pressure in the pipe is now low and discharges the high pressure combustion exhaust into the pipe. Most of the gases escape through the tailpipe, but some are reflected to assert a strong reigon of high pressure on the exhaust port so new charge can enter the cylinder. The piston travels down to the transfer ports once again and restarts the induction process. This cycle will continue until you run out of gas or you stop the spark plug from sparking (kill the engine or turn the ignition switch).

www.vespamaintenance.com

How Does the CDI Work?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 08:55:00 -0800

As part of my series explaining how the various electrical black boxes work on the P200, I thought I would have a look at the inner workings of the Capacitive Discharge Igntion ("CDI") system fitted to most every bike. The animation below shows how the system works in motion, but it probably isn't glaringly obvious to most what is happening. Using the animation as a reference, I will describe the behaviour of the ignition system. This tutorial assumes a little electrical knowledge on behalf of the reader.

Okay so if you're stuck on how it works, let's look at the parts of the ignition system in order. We'll start with the stator.

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Vespa Choke Cable

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 06:17:00 -0800

The choke cable on a large frame Vespa runs from the choke lever in the center of the frame below the seat to the carburetor on the right side of the engine. The cable is sold as a single item with a typical outer, but has a wire with pre-bent ends as the cable itself. When the small choke lever is pulled out from the frame it simply pulls the cable by about a half inch which provides a richer mixture for starting.

Unfortunately the cable is located inside the frame and the fuel tank will need to be removed. On the Vespa shown in the picture I have a single front seat and a buddy seat on the standard luggage rack. To remove the front seat, use an 11mm wrench to loosen and remove the three bolts into the frame.

The buddy seat is held to the luggage rack by two 10mm nuts on the bottom side. They are a little difficult to see...

...but a look at the underside of the seat will show them on either side. They hold a small grab bar in place which clamps the seat to the rack. Loosen the nut only enough to rotate the clamp so it passes through the slot.

With the rack out of the way you can remove the last three 11mm bolts holding the rack to the frame, and the rear of the fuel tank to the frame.

Before you can pull the tank the fuel lever needs to be turned to the on position so it faces up as shown. Also the rubber grommet around the fuel lever shaft will need to be removed by prying it out.

Start to lift the fuel tank up by lifting at the rear....

As you do the oil sight glass (if fitted) and the fuel lever will move backwards and into the frame.

Once the fuel lever passes through the frame hole the tank can be lifted from the frame. Sometimes it will need a little help and you can peer into the frame area and see if anything like cables or fuel lines are being caught.

Usually the fuel line will not need to be disconnected from the tank or the carb. There should be enough length to it to lift and slightly twist the tank as shown above. If you have nice paint work, you might want to protect the edges of the frame opening with a rag.

Now you'll be able to see the choke cable (shown with a green arrow) and the frame mounted tube and pin clip in which the small choke plunger fits.

To remove the carb end of the choke cable you'll need to remove the right hand side engine cowl and find the carb box mounted on top of the engine. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the two screws at either end. Once these are free the top can be removed although it can sometimes need a little effort.

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the air filter element by removing the two screws. The rear screw is a little weird looking so remember it always goes in the rear hole.

Now you can see where the wire choke cable attaches to the carb. Using a hook of some sort or a flathead screwdriver, unhook the cable and push it out through the hole in the carb box.

Since the carb end is released you can now pull the choke lever beyond the frame and disconnect it from the wire.

Remove the old choke cable and feed it through the hole in the frame. Fit the new choke cable through the frame hole and make sure the end with a loop in it is outside the frame. Push the end of the choke outer cable securely into the end of the frame tube.

Make sure it is fully in the tube or the next step will be very difficult. There is just enough length on the wire to allow you to connect the choke cable.

You'll see the end of the wire poking out of the choke tube on the outside of the frame. The trick is to grab it with some needlenose pliers and....

..thread the wire through the end of choke lever. You can see that one side of the choke lever cut outs is longer than the other (the one on top in this image). Be sure the wire is threaded as shown above to make sure it doesn't come undone in the tube.

With the other end of the cable hanging out through the frame, push the choke lever back into the frame tube. Thread the choke cable through the carb box, and hook it on to the carb hook. Test to make sure the carb hook is all the way released when the choke lever is pushed all the way in, and out when out. If all is well, replace the filter and the carb top.

The final step is to re-fit the rubber grommet around the fuel lever so it doesn't rattle around when driving.

www.scooterhelp.com

Gear/ throttle Cable Replacement

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 06:13:00 -0800

This section shows a quick step by step of replacing cables on an older type (pre P-series) scooter. The first step is to remove the headlight unit with two small screws located at about 4 and 8 o'clock when looking at the headlight. The unit can then be hinged out from the bottom and lifted to release a top pin from the headset. The bulb holder can be disconnected by undoing the two metal clasps that attach it to the headlight.

Remove the speedometer by undoing the center of three bolts when looking at the bottom of the headset. The speedo drive and speedo bulb will also have to be disconnected as you pull the speedometer clear. Once this is done you should see something similar to the picture below.

This sections shows how to replace the inner and outer cables for the gear selector box/ throttle slide assuming that the cables are ready for the trash.

I find it is easiest to simply remove the gear end of the twist grip to get the ends of the cables out at the headset end. Using a 10mm socket, remove the central bolt.

Once the pulley is removed, save the spring washer and locating washer that remain on the twist grip end for the rebuild. Move the cables so that the little "top hat" ends to the outer cable disengage from their supports as shown above. Pull the cable inner out of the outer with a pair of pliers. Once it is out you can clip the head of the outer cable to get rid of the crimped metal end as this could get caught as you pull it through the frame.

If you are just removing the inner cable then replace the top hat over the cable outer end, lubricate the new control cable inner with oil, and then thread the new inner in to the existing outer cable all the way until you see it at the selector box end.

If you are also replacing the outer cable you can clip the head of the outer cable to get rid of the crimped metal end as this could get caught as you pull it through the frame as shown in the next few shots.

Clean the end of the old cable outer and wrap in a spiral motion with a piece of electrical tape. This type of tape works well because you can stretch it to make it really tight. Take the new cable outer and place it face to face with the old and continue the wrap around it for about 3 inches. Repeat the process in the other direction (from the new to the old). Once this is secure it should look like the picture above.

At this point a helper is really handy. One person holds the cable at the headset straight up in the air. At the other end you pull the cable slowly through the frame as person number 2 feeds it in. It should slide right through and poke out the proper hole near the engine. The red arrow above shows the old cable outer and the green is the new cable outer. Carefully unwrap the tape from the cables and move on to the next step of threading the inner cable.

Thread both inner cables with the cable top hats in place and set the hats in the support in the headset. Then carefully fit the end nipples in to the pulley in the same direction as they were removed.

Refit the dished washer and then the locating washer, and make sure the small hole in the pulley engages with the peg on the locating washer.

Refit the pulley and tighten the 10mm nut. Place the twist grip in the neutral position and then move down to the selector box end of the cables.

I've switched the model of the bike in the photos but the idea is the same. At the bottom end thread the cable inner around the selector wheel, through the nipple at the end, and then pull it tight. When you pull it make sure the twist grip doesn't move from the neutral position, and be sure the bike is also in neutral at the motor end. Make sure the cable outer is weal seated in the adjuster and that the threaded adjuster is about 1/2 way out so you can adjust it in either direction if needed.

Using a 7mm wrench for the nipple bolt and an 8mm wrench to stop the nipple from turning, tighten the nipple down. It is helpful to have a helper still pulling on the cable to keep it tight. Do the same thing for the other cable and then wiggle the twist grip without actually engaging gears. There should be about an 1/8" of movement. If there is too much movement, equally back out both the adjusters at the selector box. If there is too little, turn them both in enough to get the wiggle.

Note: An alternative to this method to replacing outer cables is to get an extra long control cable from a bicycle dealer (the type used on tandem bikes). Thread it through the new outer cable first so that the nipple is tight against the outer cable end. Then thread the inner in to the old outer cable still in the bike. This will get you the same result as taping the two outers together as shown above. From here, go to the selector box end and place a gear nipple on the inner cable. Now you can pull the old cable outer and the new cable outer will replace it. Once the new cable is in position, remove the nipple and the tandem inner.

www.scooterhelp.com

Clutch Cable Replacement

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 04:55:00 -0800

This section shows a quick step by step of replacing a clutch inner cable on a large frame Vespa. To find out where the clutch cable is located at the motor end of the bike, have a friend pull the lever while you watch under the motor to see what moves.

As you can see on this oily example, the clutch cable has been fraying at the pinch point and will soon snap....probably on a rainy night miles from anywhere.

The first step is to remove the existing nipple by using an 8mm wrench on the nipple body and a 7mm wrench on the pinch bolt. Once slackened it can be pulled off the cable, or just cut the cable if it is stubborn and wont come off.

The image above shows the cut cable and the following parts: Red arrow: clutch arm, Blue arrow: adjuster lock nut, Green arrow: threaded adjuster.

To remove the rest of the inner cable, go to the clutch lever and remove the pivot screw while holding the nut below from turning. Some older bikes use a flathead slotted nut on the underside.

With the pivot bolt gone you can remove the lever but be sure to note where the small washers are located so that they can be put back in the same manner. Once the lever is free simply pull on it to remove the inner cable and then disconnect the cable from the lever.

Take the new inner cable and thread it in to the outer housing after a quick lubrication with oil. Be careful not to push the cable outer end back in to the headset. A flashlight is very helpful here. Once threaded push it all the way until you see it poke out at the motor end.

Fit the lever, a little grease, and the washers, and then pull on the motor end until the lever goes back in to position. Fit the pivot bolt and securing nut.

At the motor end make sure the new cable inner goes through the adjuster and the actuating arm. Back out the threaded adjuster so that it is in the middle of its range...meaning you could tighten it or loosen it equal amounts. The image above shows that clutch arm a rest and it is spring loaded.

What is very important to understand is that the clutch arm doesn't actually engage the clutch until further in its travel. Push the arm with your finger towards the front of the bike. You'll feel some resistance and then a very definite stop. This is the green arrow area above. This stop point is where the arm makes contact with the clutch and if you were able to push much harder (in the red arrow area) you'd start to disengage the clutch. Many people have emailed me making the mistake that the initial travel is where the clutch arm is disengaging the clutch.

Slip on the nipple and pull on the cable to make sure the lever at the headset is completely disengaged. Then push the clutch arm forward until the red arrowed point discussed before and tighten down the nipple. I find a very useful tool for this is a set of Vise Grips. You can clamp them just behind the nipple so your hands are free to tighten the nipple with the 8mm and 7mm wrenches without the arm moving back in to the green arrow area.

The final step is to go up to the lever and give it a pull. It should move about an 1/8 of an inch before the arm is in the red arrow zone which you'll feel as the clutch will become harder to pull. If you are in this area then you are good to go. If not you can loosen the clutch adjuster locknut, and either loosen or tighten the adjuster. Once finished tighten the locknut so it doesn't move in the future.

When you take the bike for a test drive, it should be easy to shift and not creep when in gear. To test this change in to 1st gear on flat ground with the clutch fully pulled in. If the bike tries to creep forwards you'll need to back the adjuster out more. If the lever can't hit the grip when fully pulled or if the motor RPM can climb not in rleation to the road speed, loosen the adjuster.

www.scooterhelp.com

Vespa Air Filter

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 06:06:00 -0800

Air filters work simply to make sure that the air entering the combustion chamber is clean. These filters are the metal wire gauze type and they really never wear out. Every 3000 miles or so the air filter should be removed and cleaned by soaking in new gasoline to remove any accumulated dirt.

Large frame Vespas typically have the air filter either in the carb box mounted on the engine or, in older models it is mounted directly to the carb under the seat. Small frame Vespas have an air filter mounted to the carb which is accessed by removing the plastic glove box under the seat. It is removed by small wing nuts on the front side and can be cleaned by washing in clean gasoline. Access is through the under seat door.

Above are two filters which mount inside the carb box. Over the years the filters have changed so if you do have to change the filter, make sure you find the correct replacement. Above is a P200E (VSX1T) and a Vespa 150 (VBA1T) filter.

Basically the air filter is a wire mesh which is either directly connected to the carburetor or housed in the air box. To gain access to the filter it is necessary to remove the right hand side engine cowl. Locate the air box which is at the end of a flexible rubber intake tube. Your model may vary but apart from small frames the set up below should look familiar.

Remove the two philips head screws (arrowed) and remove the top of the air box. Be sure to leave the rubber sealing strip around the join in place, as well as the other assorted rubber grommets.

The air filter on a P-series bike is held directly to the carb by two flat head slotted screws. Remove the filter and wash it in clean gasoline to remove any residue. Air filters don't really wear out as long as they are kept clean there should be no need for replacement.

www.scooterhelp.com

Vespa Carburetor Fuel Filter

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 06:03:00 -0800

This is the second fuel filter in the fuel system after the one in the fuel tank. The carb has an internal screen type fuel filter located just off the fuel intake. This filter can be reached with the carb either in or out of the bike (as shown). Just make sure the fuel tap is on "off" if you are working inside the carb box.

Above is a typical 200cc Vespa carb with the filter location noted with a red arrow. Unscrew the single screw to gain access to the internal fuel filter.

The filter is sometimes a tight fit but there is a small dimple in the side that is used for hooking it out of the carb body.

Clean the filter in new gasoline and be sure to check for sediment in the bottom of the filter bowl (shown with a red arrow above). Any sediment can be lightly scraped or blasted out. If there is a large amount of garbage in here it is probably a good idea to check your fuel tap filter as well because it should be filtering the fuel pretty well before it reaches the carburetor.

Vespa Fuel Tap

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 04:48:00 -0800

The Vespa fuel tap on early models are easily accessible by opening the carb flap below the seat near the fuel lever. All these instructions can be used on earlier bikes without removing the tank. Later bikes after about 1960 or so have a fuel tap on the bottom of the tank, which unfortunately buried in the frame.

To remove the tap the fuel tank must be removed from the frame. First you'll need to remove the seat by removing three 11mm bolts at the hinge. Then using an 11mm wrench/socket remove the 4 retaining bolts shown above in green. On models with the old style metal lever, be sure the fuel tap is turned to on (or the upright position) as this is the only way the lever will fit through the hole in the frame.

The tank is removed by lifting up the back first until the fuel lever and oil sight glass (if fitted) clear the frame. Then lift directly up, shut off the fuel when the tank is clear, and disconnect the fuel line. Remove the fuel lever from the fuel tap by removing the pin, and if an oil tank is fitted you'll need to plug the end of the oil line with a bolt or something.

The tap is threaded and has a large flange on the bottom of the tank and a 32mm nut on the inside face of the tank. While this can be unscrewed with typical tools and a lot of effort, it can be unscrewed effortlessly with the correct tool. Fit the tool down over the nut, hold the bottom of the fuel tap with your hand only, and start unscrewing. Because of the breather pipe you'll only be able to unscrew about 180 degrees at a time before taking the tool off the nut to start again.

Once the tap has been removed from the tank it can be inspected and cleaned. On later P series bikes there is a small clip which retains the fuel filter. Once unclipped the filter can slide up the breather tube, placed in clean gasoline, or blasted with air until clean.

Refitting the valve is the reverse of the disassembly, but there are a few tricks to make it less of a headache. First, replace the small gasket that goes in between the tank and the fuel tap. There is nothing worse than going through the effort of replacing the entire tank, and then have gas leaking within the frame. Second, push the tap through the fuel tap hole, and try to get the long copper breather tube near the filler cap opening. Place the fuel tap nut over the breather tube so that it will slide down to the threads. The nut should have the flat side down and the slightly beveled edge facing up.

Once the nut slides all the way down to the threads the nut can be loosely tightened. The fuel tap on the bottom of the tank still needs to be orientated correctly. Use the tap tool again and tighten the nut slowly as shown below

The last step is to make sure the outside of the fuel tap is pointing the right direction. It must be facing towards the front of the bike so that the fuel tap lever will engage it correctly. The last step is to tighten down the nut completely while making sure the bottom of the tap does not rotate. DO NOT use a wrench on the tap body as it is a casting and can be very brittle. I always put gas in the tank above the reserve level and let the tank sit overnight just to be sure there are no leaks.

Brakes Maintenance - Bleeding a Disk Brake

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 03:46:00 -0800

The newest Vespa scooters use a hydraulic disk front brake system which is far better than the cable operated alternative. There are also many kits to change older models to a disk brake setup on Vespas and a hydraulic conversion for Lambrettas fitted with the cable operated disk brake. Whatever the set up, the following section will show how to bleed and replace your hydraulic fluid.

You'll need:

A new bottle of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid
A 10mm wrench
A phillips head screwdriver
A brake bleeding tool like a MityVac or 2' length of 1/4 clear tubing

Hydraulics work by moving liquid along a hollow hose to make the caliper at the wheel end squeeze a rotating disk. The handlebar end of the system has a small plunger that forces liquid through the line every time you pull it. This plunger must be always be below the level of the small reservoir it sits under or else air might enter the system. Slowly but surely air can work its way into this closed system and when it does the brakes will start to feel 'spongy'. The reason is that liquids cannot be compressed much but air can easily be compressed. If there is air in the system it will compress in the line instead of actuating the caliper.

Above is a shot of a fantastic tool that costs about $50 from most auto parts stores. When connected to the brake system it can be pumped to create a vacuum in the tube and suck fluid into the small reservoir just before the handgrip. If you work on cars too, it can do all sorts of diagnostic tasks with the vacuum/pressure valve mounted in front of the handgrip. This is not a necessary tool but it makes it very easy to do with just one person.

The first step is to find the bleed valve on your hub mounted disk brake caliper. These shots are off my VBA bike so although a PX200 with a disk brake will look a little different, these steps are still valid. The bleed valve is a small 10mm nut with a hole through it and a small nipple for a tube to be connected.

The bleed valve usually has a small rubber cover to it which needs to be removed (red arrow in above left shot). Once removed the nut can be loosened. Only about a 1/4 turn is necessary to allow the fluid to move out the valve hole.

I have done brake bleeding with an extra long tube on the bleed valve but I found a suction tool that is perfect for the job and makes it super easy. If using an extra long tube it will need to be about 2' long and curve down and then back up towards the sky, like a large 'U'. With a tube system you'll be using the master cylinder to push fluid through the system; with the tool you'll be sucking it in from the end of the system. Whether you use a long tube or the tool, you'll need to connect a 1/4" diameter tube to the bleed valve as shown above.

Move up to the handlebar reservoir and there will be two phillips head screws holding the top of the reservoir on. Start by placing and old rag on any painted surface that may possibly get some brake fluid on it. DOT 3 or 4 fluid is a serious paint remover. If you do spill any on your paintwork get it off immediately and it should not mark the surface. Once the top is removed you will be able to see inside the reservoir and the two small holes (arrowed above) which allow fluid into the system. These must always be covered with liquid over the next few steps or you will have to start over.

Start by getting everything open and ready. I use a syringe to transfer hydraulic fluid from the bottle to the reservoir because it is easy to control and is easier to avoid splashes on the paintwork. Place the hydraulic fluid bottle in a location where you can refill the syringe quickly as you may need to do this many times while the fluid is being sucked into the system. Once everything is in place it is time to begin.

Start by filling the reservoir almost to the top and then bring up the pressure in the vacuum tool by squeezing the trigger about 3 times. You'll see the fluid slowly drain into the small holes in the upper reservoir. THESE MUST BE KEPT COVERED WITH LIQUID AT ALL TIMES. If for any reason they get uncovered you will have to be sure that the air bubble you just introduced to the system is bled out of the bottom valve. At the bleed valve fluid should start to flow into the tool reservoir. It will probably be dirtier than what you are replacing it with and may have bubbles in the tube. Continue to fill the handlebar unit and monitor the fluid coming out of the bleed valve until it is closer in color to the new fluid and there are no air bubbles present. Then let the vacuum pressure release from the tool and slowly depress the handlebar lever. This must be done slowly as fluid may shoot out of one of the small holes at the bottom of the reservoir. If there is any air in this part of the system it will bubble to the top of the handlebar reservoir.

Finally, tighten the bleed valve at the caliper leaving the tube in place, and fill the upper reservoir until you hit the MAX line in the window, and refit the top. Pump the vacuum tool three times to build up pressure and then disconnect it from the bleed valve. The suction should stop any spilling from the tube.

A single pull of the handlebar lever should be enough to make sure the system is working well.

A final word on brake fluid. From what I have found DOT 3 and 4 are interchangeable in most systems. DOT 5 should not be used under any circumstances. Usually the requirements for the system are cast into the top of the handlebar reservoir cover.

www.scooterhelp.com

Brakes Maintenance- Replacing Disk Pads

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 02:54:00 -0800

There are two types of disk brake set ups for Vespa scooters. Before a hydraulic disk was standard equipment on the PX models, there was semi-hydraulic version available from Grimeca as an aftermarket kit. The reason it is semi-hydraulic is that there is no master cylinder on the headset, but instead there is a remote reservoir bolted to the fork tube which connects to the handle bar brake lever by a shorter than normal front brake cable.

This section will show how to change the brake pads and should be the same for the new five spoke Vespa '98' type hydraulic disk brake which is standard equipment on all new Vespa PXs. Be sure to specify which model you have when ordering pads as I don't have any information if they are the same size for both systems.

You will need:

A large flathead screwdriver
New disk pads (available from most Vespa dealers)
13mm socket and driver or open ended wrench
11mm socket and driver or open ended wrench
Small flathead or circlip pliers
Possibly some copper paste lubricant for the caliper pistons
Possibly an Allen wrench set if your caliper is held on with Allen bolts instead of normal hex head bolts.

The aftermarket Grimeca kit system comprises of the following parts:

Red arrow: Hydraulic brake caliper.
Blue arrow: Remote hydraulic reservoir
Green arrow: Hydraulic hose to caliper
Yellow arrow: Brake disk & hub beyond

Replacing the pads

The first thing to do is get the bike onto the kickstand and make sure the front wheel is off the ground. Many bikes have bent kickstands which allow the front wheel to sit on the ground. If this is the case with yours, just put a block of wood or a brick under either stand foot to raise the front wheel.

The front wheel rim is removed by loosening the five 13mm nuts around the hub side of the front wheel. Because of the caliper set up the wheel must be removed in order to remove the caliper. This older kit has a different front hub than the newer standard five spoke hub, so yours may differ from the one shown above.

Once the wheel is off you will be able to remove the two bolts noted above which allows the caliper to come free from the hub mount. The hydraulic hose can remain in place because it is a pain to bleed the system if it is removed and will bend enough to allow you to do all the work needed.

Once the caliper is clear you will be able to see the two pads that grab the rotating disk when the front brake lever is pulled. These ones are very close to having no pad left so both caliper pistons are visible too.

The calipers pistons will need to be spread back to the face of the assembly in order to fit the new pads. The new pads will be much thicker than the ones being replaced so the pistons must be spread in order to fit them both. We used the old pads to protect the pistons from any damage and then carefully wedged a screwdriver between them to force the pistons apart. If they are hard to move they can be lubricated with copper paste but be careful to apply it in such a way that it will not get on to the disk when reinstalled. They should move pretty easily so if you feel you are using excessive force it may make sense to remove the caliper from the hydraulic hose, sort out the problem, and then bleed the system later. I have a page showing how to bleed a similar system in other post. The principle is the same regardless of where the main reservoir is located.

To remove the old pads you will need to remove the plastic cover on the backside of the caliper which allows you to see the anti-rattle spring (blue arrow) and a small retaining pin (red arrow) that passes through the cast hydraulic caliper housing. The plastic cover is just a snap fit on the caliper and a flathead screwdriver works well to pry it off. The retaining pin goes through a hole in the brake pad backing and keeps it in place.

To remove the retaining pin, remove the small circlip at the wheel side of the caliper. We used a small screwdriver to wedge it off by placing it between the pin and the circlip- beware...these things can go flying and are very hard to find.

Once the circlip is removed, pull the pin out. The old brake pads and anti-rattle spring may fall out at this point because the pin is the only thing holding them in place. Note the location and orientation of the anti-rattle spring as it needs to go back in the same position (large side towards the sky when the caliper is in place).

The old disk pad is obviously shown by the green arrow. The new pad is the blue arrow, and the anti-rattle spring (which can be reused is shown with a red arrow.

The new pads go into the caliper the same way the old ones came out. The pad surfaces need to be facing each other with the hole in the brake pad backing facing the rear of the caliper, so that the small retaining pin will go through them and hold them in place. When replacing the retaining pin make sure the anti-rattle spring is in the same position it was when removed. Slip the pin through the holes in the pads making sure the pin also secures the anti-rattle spring. Replace the circlip to keep the pin from sliding out, and refit the caliper to the hub. Test the system by rotating the front wheel while the caliper is fully open. There may be slight resistance but this will disappear after less than a mile of riding. The surface of the pads is quite bumpy and needs to be ground down slightly by the rotating disk before they will fully bed in with the disk. The picture above shows a point in the older Grimeca hub that must be aligned with the air valve stem in order to make the wheel rim fit on the hub. Tighten all the 13mm nuts down and test the wheel and brake system before you take it on the road.

Vespa 98 racing (circuit)

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:42:00 -0800

Year 1947

The creative genius of Piaggio's enginer, which had led to the appearance of the first Vespa on Italian roads in 1946, was confirmed a few months later by the emergence of a real jewel from the experimental division of the Pontedera workshops.
The Vespa 98 Corsa was built with the specific objective of showing the world that a small scooter could be extremely competitive on the circuit. In 1947 Vespa 98 Corsa (Circuit) was hence built for speed in the races of its category and represented a consentration of innovative ideas to be tried out on standard production. Its mounted the steering column adn suspension on the right, a solution thet would be applied to the Vespa 125 from 1948 on. The body was handbuild on a steel frame.

Engine: 2-stroke single cylinder engine with cast iron horizontal cylinder and alumunium head
Bore: 50 mm
Stroke: 50 mm
Dsiplacement: 98 cc
Top speed: 100 km/h
Suspension: coil springs and calipers shock absorber on the front wheel, leaf spring on the rear wheel
Brakes: drums
Tyres: Pirelli of the "corsa" type, 3.50-b"

Vespa 98 cc Race

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:19:00 -0800

Year 1947

This first fabulous race vespa was conceived for participation in various circuit race. With it, in 1947 Piaggio dealers could enter their participation in speed contests. The vespa in fact took part in several gradient and track races, with many victories in the scooter category, among wich the naples Grand Prix in 1947 and the chronograph climb at Rocca di Papa (Rome).
The Vespa 98 Corsa's form derived from the standard production model, but it had a much smaller, bubble-shaped shield and small handlebars. The horn was taken off the steering column cover and the seat is placed far back, so thet the rider had to strecht to reach the handlebars. The rear brakes were also retracted to suit the rider's elongated, aerodynamic position.

Engine: 2-stroke single cylinder engine with cast iron horizontal cylinder and alumunium head
Bore: 50 mm
Stroke: 50 mm
Dsiplacement: 98 cc
Top speed: 80 km/h
Suspension: spiral springs on the front wheel, leaf spring on the rear wheel
Brakes: drums
Tyres: 3.50-8"

Classic vespa : vespa 98 II serie

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 05:30:00 -0800

The second series of the Vespa 98 (1947), of which 16.500 units were produced, included significant improvements over the preceding model, design-wise as well as in terms of technical and practical aspects. The front mudguard no longer had a hatch opening, and it had been reduced in size to make wheel changing easier in case of a punchture, a frequent occurrence in the post war period because of bad roads. Magazines ofthe period noted that potential customers had to wait eight months for their vespa 98. This led to the creation of flourishing black market, with Vespas being sold at as much as double their normal retail price.

Single cilynder two-stroke engine, horizontal cast iron cylinder with press-fit light alloy head.
Bore: 50 mm
Stroke: 50 mm
Displacement: 98 cc
Top speed: 60 km/h
Suspension: with spiral springs on the front wheel, rubber pad on the rear wheel
Brakes: drum
Tyres: 3.50-8"

Classic vespa : vespa 98

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:37:00 -0800

The "motoleggera utilitaria vespa", or light motorised runabout, was presented to the public for the first time in April 1946 at the Rome golf club. The leg shield sported the new piaggio logo, which replaced the former aeronautical emblem. The fortnightly magazines "La Moto" and "Motociclismo" dedicated ist cover to the vespa and the new scooter sparked off curiosity, surprise but also certain scepticism among the public. The first firthy vehicles were produced at the pontedera's factory at the sam time of the official presentation. For the first few months the vespa was marketed by the lancia dealer network, and a total of 2,484 were roduced in its first year of life. And so the adventure of the worlds mostfamous scooter began.

Engine: Two-stroke single cylinder engine. Horizontal cast iron cylinder with press-fit light alloy head
Bore: 50 mm
Stroke: 50 mm
Displacement: 98 cc
Top speed: 60 km/h
Suspension: elastic, with spiral steel springs on the front wheel, and rubber buffers for the rear wheel
Brakes: drums
Tyres: 3.50-8"

Zafferano 125

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:14:00 -0800

The limited edition Vespa Zafferano will brighten up even the dullest of days with Italian style and flair. The 200 exclusively numbered Zafferano scooters teamed with the iconic retro Vespa design offers the very best in Italian urban chic and ensures its riders are streets ahead in style.

Technical specifications>>

Vespa NAVY: GT NAVY 125

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:06:00 -0800

Limited edition GT Navy with a classically stunning Navy finish, the GT Navy is created for usable elegance and uncompromising style.

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Vespa S 125

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:01:00 -0800

Vespa S 125, equipped with a modern and ecological engine, designed to cover longer distances with ease whilst respecting the environment (Euro 3 Compliant).

Technical specifications>>

Vespa S 50

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:39:00 -0800

Light, energetic and ideal for the city. Agile and effortless to ride with automatic transmission and electric starter; the Vespa S is the perfect travel companion for your daily commute in and around town.

Technical specifications>>

Vespa: GTS: GTS 125

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:35:00 -0800

The stylish appeal of the Vespa GTS is now available in a 125cc version: new engine displacement, unchanged elegance.

The Vespa GTS 125 is instantly recognisable: its chrome mudguard trim and position light placed midway down the front shield are an evocative reminder of 1950s Vespas.
The sculpted cowls, bulbous round headlamp and folding aluminium pillion foot pegs are all features that emphasise the unique styling of the Vespa GTS 125.
Like every other Vespa, the GTS has the trademark monocoque sheet metal chassis that gives the Vespa its legendary strength, reliability and rigidity to contribute to remarkable steering precision.

Technical specifications>>

Vespa: GTS: GTS 250 i.e.

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:30:00 -0800

The Vespa GTS 250cc is one of the very first two-wheelers – and the first in the 250cc category – to meet the strict upcoming 2006 Euro 3 standards. Supreme handling and performance, enhanced by the 12” wheels, structural re-enforcement’s, and 220 Ømm disc braking system, give the Vespa GTS its winning formula. Combined with unique features such as the analogue digital display panel, a wide and racy saddle, and a vintage-Vespa-style rear rack show that this Vespa is at the top of its game. It’s the ideal answer to whether you are zipping through the city traffic or cruising on the motorway.

Technical specifications>>

Vespa: GTV: GTV 125

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:50:00 -0800

The Vespa GTV pays tribute to the 60 years of Vespa, the latest in a line of 140 successful models. The GTV 125 matches the level of technology you expect from a modern Vespa, blending it with a memorable and evocative style that is apparent at first glance.

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