The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud

"WET to BIG TIME HEAT" on tall fescue!!!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Wed, 17 Jul 2019 19:42:00 +0000

As we approach the last half of the summer, The Yards that have been on the preventive Disease Control through this point are actually doing pretty well for this time of the summer. The worst case scenario for tall fescue is wet followed by heat. Though the breeze and the rain has been welcome, the soil temperatures are will HEAT up dramatically next week!

What that means is those with irrigation need to be mindful to not over water during rainy hot periods. "IRRIGATION IS NOT AIR CONDITIONING" Hot wet soil will produce pythium blight or gray leaf spot and the Fescue will melt like hot butter even with preventive Disease Control. Therefore, please be vigilant with your irrigation and only water when your soil is starting to dry. You will know your soil is becoming dry when you cannot push a Phillips head screwdriver into the soil and get to the handle. If it goes in easily and comes out muddy you're going to be in a bad situation. Nutsedge, Brown patch, spurge and weed grasses such as crabgrass and Johnson grass are going to Blossom. We will do our best to keep the fungus and weeds at bay over the next 30 days. However, when the air temperature gets over 90° we cannot apply enough herbicides to safely control all these weeds in one application. Bear with us as we go through the traditional "shake and bake" of late summer. For those on preventive Disease Control program, if you see a rapid 24-hour decline in Turf between visits, please don't hesitate to email Holly and she will get someone dispatched as quick as possible.

***If temps remain above 90 for 7 straight days, I highly recommend that you skip mowing until heat breaks. We're bracing for the next few weeks and we will be sending out seed letters by the end of the month. Thank you for your business! Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

Tree Seedlings Everywhere

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 31 May 2019 15:52:00 +0000

Tree seedlings - lots of oak and maple tree seedlings have germinated. No weed control labeled for them. A few mowings will kill them.

Weed issues

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 25 Apr 2019 19:10:00 +0000

Getting several calls about a stubborn weeds. This first 2 pics are corn Speedwell. They usually are against concrete areas or bare spots. They are difficult to control until temps hit low 80s a few days..

Got Moss?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 14 Mar 2019 02:01:00 +0000

Getting alot of calls concerning the amount of moss currently present in the lawns in early 2019. Why do I have so much moss? Do I need lime? What should we do?

1. Moss needs surface moisture to thrive. The amount of rainfall during January and February 2019 is pretty staggering compared to normal. We also haven't had very many "frozen soil weeks this winter. Moss will show up in low light, poorly draining soil areas. Until the surface can dry out for extended periods = more than a day or too, moss will continue to dominate the above environment.

2. Lime - the only time lime will generally be needed to change the soil ph to discourage moss and encourage turf is where moss is actively growing in full sun conditions during dry weather. 99% of the moss we see now are low light, poorly draining areas.

3. What can we do? Once the deluge of rain stops and soil surface can dry, there are herbicides that can effectively control moss without harming turf. If those are used during the wet, cool conditions we have now, new moss will regrow rapidly to replace killed moss. Therefore, that would be wasting the herbicide and not making an improvement in the moss control.

Let us know in ealry April if you have significant moss areas that need addressing. Remember, moss is basically a symptom of wet soil surface. Improving drainage and providing more sunlight are key to long term successful control of moss. Improved drainage + increase sun + moss control herbicide are the combinations needed to reduce moss invasion!

Wild Violet control 2019

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Sat, 12 Jan 2019 00:04:00 +0000

For many years controlling wild violets in residential Turfgrass has been extremely difficult. The reason control is so difficult is the underground structure is very Woody in nature and extremely difficult for herbicides to basically finish the control. Even herbicides like Roundup, that advertise "killing plant's roots in all" , very often would take multiple applications and still not completely destroy the underground tuber. About 10 years ago, there was a herbicide called Confront, that was pretty effective in controlling violets with about two applications. That herbicide was removed from residential use and it's only allowed on golf courses. Another herbicide, Imprelis was briefly released and did an amazing job controlling violets. However, it also controlled evergreens and other fully mature trees. It was completely removed from the market. In 2019, there is a new herbicide on the market, called Sure Power. The university trials have shown excellent control of wild violets and ground ivy without damaging trees. However, it can do substantial damage to cool season grasses if it is applied when the air temperatures exceed 70 degrees. Therefore, we will be applying this herbicide to cool season lawns from early February until the temperatures prevent us from doing so. This herbicide cannot be mixed with other products such as fertilizer. We are providing this application AT NO CHARGE to our customers that take the full cool season package. It will not be offered as a standalone service to non customers or customers that do not take a complete package. We are determined to end the frustration of customers who have had wild Violet issues for years. It is extremely important for existing customers to contact our office by email or phone by January 31st to get on the list! Looking forward to a great 2019!

Robert Stroud "The Turf Doctor"

Weeds, Weeds, fungus, and more weeds

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 31 May 2018 19:32:00 +0000

With soil temps warm and daily rains, we have 2 constant issues arising. Weeds & Diseases!

1.Weeds- nutsedge and summer annual weeds are germinating daily! If you have unacceptable weed populations between our visits please contact us for a service call.

2. Diseases - if you are on our preventive Disease Control package, we typically treat every 25 to 30 days. With this amount of rainfall, diseases will probably break out after 21 days because of the high pressure conditions that exist. Therefore, if you are on our preventive Disease Control package and see disease outbreak before 21 days is up, please let us know.

Having zero weeds and zero disease and these conditions is basically not feasible, but we do the best we can do to keep them under control. The only way we know you were having what you consider unacceptable results is if you contact us to let us know. We have rapid response on service calls usually within 48 hours if the weather cooperates. Just know that we are doing the best we can do based on the weather conditions that are presented.

Thank you for your business and patience! Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

Brown Fescue ☹️

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Sun, 28 Jan 2018 22:54:00 +0000

Getting several calls/emails concerning the browning of Fescue /Bluegrass/Ryegrass. Right now almost every lawn looks like a brown Bermuda lawn! Basically, with fluctuating cold spells during the winter, the foliage gets basically frozen, inside and out, which browns the leaf blade. We've had a few single-digit cold snaps, so it's more exaggerated this January than it was last year. The good news is as soon as soil temperatures warm a bit, new green growth will pop out and lawn will be fine! Although it is totally possible to get winter kill all the way to the roots on cool season grasses, I personally I've only seen that one time in 22 years. We will start our first application soon!

Welcome to August!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 04 Aug 2017 18:16:00 +0000

The weather has been more favorable this summer than 2016! However, the moisture through early August has presented some issues. The crabgrass preemergent is now been depleted, due to the wet summer. You will notice spurge, crabgrass, and nutsedge invading curbs already. We will get these weeds under control with app# 5,which begins next week. We are also seeing much heavier disease pressure (Brown Patch and Dollar Spot) than normally occurs in August due to the excess late summer rains. Normally, August is very dry and the humidity backs off, both of which reduce disease outbreaks. We have completed all 3 disease prevention apps for those that take the disease control package. You may see some outbreak the last 2 weeks in August. Unless the disease becomes rampant, I don't recommend you spend money for a 4th fungicide this late in the summer, especially if you are on the fall aeration and overseeding schedule. If you do not plan on aerating and overseeding this fall, a 4th fungicide might be worth the $. Call or email with any questions. Fall will be here soon!

Preds before Patch!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 25 May 2017 03:15:00 +0000

Preds before Patch!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 25 May 2017 03:15:00 +0000

I am looking to barter out services for a full year(or more depending on lawn size) = 6 basic apps, 3 disease controls, and aeration and overseeding. If you have lower bowl preds tickets and if by chance you care more about your grass than one game , PLEASE call text, and email me! 6153946867 I will make your lawn Augusta!

Minor side note: we are starting to see some brown patch. All 1st round disease apps will be completed by Friday if weather cooperates!

Why your Bermuda or Zoysia lawn looks like crap right now

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 21 Apr 2017 04:05:00 +0000

We are getting a lot of calls about how terrible customers Bermuda or Zoysia lawns currently look. Here is the situation. We apply pre-emergent to prevent winter weeds. Unfortunately we did not have a winter this year so the pre-emergent ran out before it was time to apply the spring pre-emergent. Also we are normally able to apply low rates of Roundup to warm-season lawns in February to eliminate unsightly cool season grass clumps such as annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass, fescue, wheat, and annual bluegrass(poa). Roundup only damages plants by entering green foliage it is not active in the soil. Although the leaves of the Bermuda in Zoysia turned brown, the lateral stems called stolons remained green because of the extremely warm winter and could not be treated without doing serious harm to your warm season lawn. If we did do the treatment we normally do, it would have taken your warm season lawn at least an extra month to fully green up. We have been able to control most of the broadleaf weeds such as Clover dandelion and chickweed by carefully applying low rates of broadleaf weed control. Bermuda in Zoysia are only partially green at the moment. This time is called the "transition period" applying herbicides for grass control during the transition period Is a unacceptable practice because of the damage it can do to your lawn. Here's my recommendation. Have the grass cut low at least twice a week to stress out the cool season grasses. In early May the Bermuda in Zoysia should
be fully green and Beyond the transition. When warm season grasses are completely green and actively
growing, they are very tolerant of herbicides applied to remove cool season grasses. One other factor to consider. There is a disease which is basically a cool season Brown patch which is currently attacking Bermuda in Zoysia Lawns. That disease occurs during transition when we have wet weather and cool nights. Applying heavy amounts of nitrogen during this time of transition would definitely increase your chances of this disease doing damage to your lawn. So we will not fertilize warm season grasses with nitrogen until they are completely green and it is past the time frame where that particular fungus does the most damage. I'm basically asking you to give me three weeks before we can safely control all the weeds that are unsightly including grasses and before we can safely promote those grasses to Green up and start growing. Thank you for your patience. Please let me know that you received this message in your email box and understand it. Sincerely, Robert Stroud The Turf doctor

This ain't no turfgrass!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 14 Apr 2017 03:31:00 +0000

What the heck is growing in my landscape beds and lawn. Looks like white sonora wheat? Anybody know what this is? It came from the straw bales we used as Halloween decorations, but I can't id pasture grasses. Is this wheat? Rolled in bud, insignificant liquile,abe 1 clasping auricle.

Time to irrigate!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Tue, 11 Apr 2017 15:14:00 +0000

Lawns are starting to really dry out now so make sure your irrigation is active and running. Please apply 1 inch per week if we are not getting an inch of rainfall the week...

Got Frost Damage?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Wed, 22 Mar 2017 03:14:00 +0000

I received an inquiry from a customer today that included the above picture. From the picture, I thought this was possibly a herbicide injury. After reviewing our records, I noticed it had been a month since our 1st treatment of this lawn, but the injury appeared last week after a mowing. We assessed all 10 properties treated the same day with a granular polyon slow release fertilizer with preemergent incorporated on the granular. Weeds were only spot sprayed. Only 2 yards treated out of 10 had this damage. However, there was a 3rd yard beside the other 2 that had same symptoms. That yard was treated 45 days ago. The one common denominator was all 3 yards were mowed the same day, same height, by the same company. The damage is confined to the wheel tracks. These 3 lawns were mowed last week during cold snap, and the lush spring growth had frost on it when they were mowed, causing foliar damage by crushing plant cells with frozen moisture inside the leaf blades. The good news here is that it only crushes the foliage, so new growth will soon replace the damaged turf. It will probably take 2 mowings and more warm wet weather for all damage to heal.
1. Never mow or even walk on frozen green grass.
2. It is important to keep accurate pesticide records un to be able to determine if herbicide damage could be a cause of plant injuries.
Glad it was not herbicide related!

Duh moles!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Tue, 31 Jan 2017 02:53:00 +0000

Seeing some serious surface mole tunnels in January is strange. People ask, are they eating grubs??? Nope, because the ground has been thawed and we have had excellent soaking rains, that drives earthworms to the soil surface so birds and moles get a snack. Usually, the soil surface is frozen during January and moles are tunneling deeper, so you don't notice them. Its not like a "mole epidemic", its just a warm, weird, wet January. Having said that, the good news is you can easily push tunnels back down before grass dries and dies with a wheelbarrow or lawn mower wheel right after a soaking rain. Then, you need to trap the moles with scissor traps or call Keith Burgess 615-496-7004. His company us Affordable Wildlife control. He is a mole trapping guru! If you wait until warm temperatures come before getting rid of moles, you will very likely have dead runs of grass all summer. When its warm and soil is dry, the raised tunnels cause grass roots to dry and die pretty quickly. If you are a do-it-yourselfer type, https://www.amazon.com/Victor-OSight-Mole-Trap-0631/dp/B00004RAMY. Happy trapping! All other methods are a joke, trust me! I have tried them ALL.

Early Spring?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 20 Jan 2017 17:48:00 +0000

December and January have been so wet and warm that grass seed planted in the fall has actually germinated in January. This is the first time I have ever seen this in twenty years. Therefore, we will begin applying our pre-emergent herbicide in late January instead of early February. The granular fertilizer with pre-emergent is released based on soil temperature. Therefore, if it turns off cold and snows in February or March the material will not be diluted it will remain in the soil until the soil warms back up. Hopefully we will have a wet year and cool summer. Thank you for your business. Sincerely, Robert Stroud the Turf doctor

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What happens to ungerminated seed from fall 2016?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 15 Dec 2016 16:37:00 +0000

Since we basically had no rainfall from August through Thanksgiving, there was alot of seed that did not germinate. Irrigated lawns germinated very well, where coverage was good, if they followed our watering instructions. Unirrigated lawns that weren't manually watered daily, did not germinate. This is the 1st time I have seen this issue in 20 years of service. Research shows that if the seed wasn't watered and did not initiate germination, up to 90% of it will germinate in spring, once soil temps warm up (usually mid March). Some seed may wash away if on a slope, but I believe we will be pleasently suprised by the amount of germination that will hopefully occur. I say hopefully, because I am basing this on information obtained from agronomists that have researched this situation. All agronomists I spoke to said there are many factors that effect how seed performs the following spring. We have put together a list of lawns that definitely need reseeding or at least need touch ups. Customers on that list will be fertilized only during 1st app 2016, to promote new seedling growth. Preemergent will not be applied during 1st app on lawns or spots that need reseeding. We guarantee our fall aeration and overseeding on irrigated lawns. On unirrigated lawns, we can reseed them as needed in spring. I believe the fairest way to handle this situation is to charge customers on unirrigated lawns, only the cost of seed applied. No labor charge will be added. If we need to reaerate, there will be no charge for that. If we aerated and reseeded your lawn in fall of 2016, please contact us by phone or email if you want to insure that you are on the list for spot touch up or reseeding. Thank you for your business. Look for our news letter with prepay option in early January, 2017.

Sincerely, Robert Stroud
The Turf Doctor

Still getting "need to reseed" calls

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 18 Nov 2016 00:49:00 +0000

Folks, we are still getting calls to reseed areas that aren't germinating. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THESE AREAS IS DRY. PERIOD. I have looked at them and ALL those spots are too dry for seed germination. If you have irrigation, it is likely that some areas don't get perfect coverage. That is very normal, as irrigation is a supplement to rainfall. Yards that have excellent coverage have EXCELLENT germination rates. If you have areas that are still dry, you need to get a hose and sprinkler at this point. Soil temps will allow germination for only about 10-14 more days, even with cold snap coming. Therefore, keeping soil surface damp during DAYLIGHT HOURS EVERY DAY is critical. If it gets too cold in mid December, the seed will lay there until about March, then most of it will germinate. We will delay preemergent in those cases where spots may need more seed in February. If you have paid your invoice for aeration and seeding, we will reseed areas that need it in the spring. If your seeding invoice has not been paid, by December 1st, you will not receive further services from The Turf Doctor. I have been in business for 20 years because we care and we make it right! However, we can't make it rain!!! If it never rains again, we won't have to worry about grass anyway. If you have not followed our aftercare watering instructions, please do so. It is my recommendation that if you have irrigation, you continue to water until we receive one soaking rain, HOPEFULLY THIS WEEKEND. Then winterize to protect your system. If we get nights below 30 before you winterize, there are 2 things you can do.
1. Wrap backflow with blankets
2. Set irrigation to run about 3-6 am. Moving water is hard to freeze!

Thank you for your business and please refrain from asking if we "have bad seed" That answer is NO, I promise.

Sincerely, Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

Seed Germination

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Tue, 11 Oct 2016 23:46:00 +0000

Wow you the fun continues! After the "summer from hell" due to late July, early August thunderstorms, now we are in drought mode. Unless you are watering a minimum of 2x daily, your seed is NOT staying damp and isn't germinating. The seed is tested by the state to insure it is viable = will germinate when kept moist. ITS NOT "BAD SEED"! In fact, to my knowledge it is the highest rated, most expensive blend sold in Nashville! Please set to irrigation to water once before lunch and once in the afternoon. You will find out how good your irrigation coverage is based on where seed does not germinate. Here is the good news. Soil temps right now are what they normally are about in mid September. The only requirement for fescue germination is water and warm soil temps. Therefore, we will be able to germinate fescue thru Thanksgiving! I am often asked, "what if we get a frost in October". It takes SEVERAL consecutive days of forst and near freezing temps to cool soil below germination temps. I welcome a freaking frost! We still have nutsedge and other summer weeds like spurge germinating daily due to high soil temps! Even the weeds are confused. Once we have finished all aeration /seeding, AND we have had at least 2 soaking rains, we will return to reseed as needed. In 20 years, we have had to reseed some yards in spring only 1 time. ZERO customers have ever been dissatisfied with our final seeding product. We ALWAYS make it right. Do we miss spots?Sometimes. Do we fix them? Always. The reason you see seed germination in shady spots 1st,is that the sun doesn't bake the seed dry in the afternoon. The sunny areas need rain to happen, or perfect irrigation timing and coverage. We guarantee all aeration /seed jobs every year. If it never rains again, thats the only way we will fail to reestablish your lawn! IF YOU HAVE IRRIGATION AND HAVE WATERED AS INSTRUCTED AND IT HAS BEEN 30 DAYS SINCE WE SEEDED, THEN YOU CAN CALL FOR IMMEDIATE TOUCH UP. Otherwise, wait on rain or buy a sprinkler and please be patient. Thank you for your business!

Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

Seriously?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 06 Oct 2016 00:23:00 +0000

Seeded this lawn 18 days ago. We treated with bifenthrin(granular) at time of seeding. Customer noticed grass not doing well in some spots. I picked up a handful of dead seedlings and grabbed 6 live baby armyworms! Bifenthrin effective as contact control, but the residual is not effective more than 2 weeks when watering daily for seed germination. I have NEVER seen multiple generations in same year. If we have seeded your lawn in 37205 or 37215 and you notice new grass areas quickly deteriorating, please contact us ASAP! This is major problem. Need a under 50 degree night to stop more generations. In 2017,we will have to change our program to stop this situation. A hot wet late summer year = armyworm invasion. If lawn on dry side, they won't hit you, but seed won't germinate. Very random, side by side yards we treat, 1 hit 1 not. Only difference is how wet they were when moths arrived in late August.

Armyworm theory, why me?

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Tue, 13 Sep 2016 23:04:00 +0000

After looking at many yards and speaking with other turf managers in the area, we found 2 common denominators.
1.Moisture - having seen zero lawns that are dry an unirrigated that have been attacked. That tells me that when the moths fly here from "down yonder" , they lay their eggs near areas where they see succulent, soft turf tissue in wet warm soil to feed on. Would you rather eat a piece of cardboard or a juicy steak?

2. Disease control - ALL yards that I have seen damaged so far, have been yards that had the healthiest turfgrass through late July. AKA, They had all been treated with disease control this summer and therefore had the healthiest foliage to feed on.

Conclusions - having a crappy unirrigated lawn full of weeds almost completely eliminates the risk armyworms will do damage to your lawn.

We have seen 1 case of armyworm damage in 37027. The other 11 were in 37215 or 37205. All lawns with damage have irrigation and at least 1 "overly wet" area in the lawns. My guess is these "overly wet areas" are irrigation leaks or poor drainage areas. My other guess is when the rains started coming in late July, most customers continued to irrigate on top of the rainfall.

Its just a theory......

Seed blend for 2016

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Fri, 02 Sep 2016 13:32:00 +0000

http://www.pickseed.com/professional-turf/tech-sheets/tall-fescue.aspxll

If you would like more information on this year's seed blend, click link.

Army worms have arrived!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Mon, 22 Aug 2016 17:03:00 +0000

Great, armyworms have arrived. As if the weeds and nutsedge aren't enough hassle! They prefer to eat Bermuda, however, they will also eat fescue seedlings, once fall seeding completed. They will eat the whole lawn seedlings in 24 hours. What about the turf insect control you applied in June? Why doesn't that kill them? We use imacloprid and bifenthrin at that time. Imacloprid will give about a years control for grubs, because it is systemic. bifenthrin gives a no quick knockdown of surface feeding turf insects that are present at time of treatment, and will also knock out fleas, ticks, chiggers, etc. However, it doesn't kill insects NOT present. Fall armyworms fly up from the gulf coast areas as moths. They don't lay their eggs in the turf. They lay eggs on fences, poles, tree limbs, etc. They have to be controlled after they arrive. They don't show up every year. Please call if you notice areas (especially bermuda) that turn brown in about 1 day, so we can stop the armyworms from doing more damage. Please watch video on other post about armyworm damage. Thanks!

Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

Armyworm. Damage

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Mon, 22 Aug 2016 17:03:00 +0000

https://youtu.be/7sL2s8XA2XI

Robert Stroud The Turf Doctor

click this one!

Like, its not fescue time in TN!

noreply@blogger.com (The Turf Doctor Robert Stroud) — Thu, 04 Aug 2016 00:07:00 +0000

Its hot, yo. Its wet too. Everything but fescue will grow well over next 30 days. With soil temps over 90 and afternoon showers, it sets up for ugly yards. We are spraying weeds as quickly as we can, but they will keep coming until soil temps drop in September. What you can do to help, is to make sure you are not irrigating on top of this rain. Don't even attempt to keep your fescue looking like it did even a month ago. I would rather see drought stress than pithium fungus. Brown Patch disease control won't touch pithium. Its a death nail. Hot wet soil = pithium = dead until reseed. Hot dry soil = some brown, but not dead grass that will recover quickly when soil temps cool in September. Just remember, we are not happy seeing lawns tank either. But, I bet you don't see fescue in the jungle! Bare with us, we will get weeds cleaned up and ready for fall seeding, which is less than a month away. Thank you for your patience and business. If the weeds are driving you crazy and you want ASAP spray, just call office or email. We will move you up on service call list. Thanks 6154728245

Turf Doctor