Indra Jatra in Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur)

Indra Jatra is Kathmandu’s largest festival After the Gai Jatra festival comes Indra Jatra. And between them are a number of smaller festivals and celebrations. Yes, this is Nepal’s peak time of year for festivals! For tourists visiting Nepal it is a unique opportunity to not only experience an awesome spectacle but also a chance to witness the largest traditional festival in Kathmandu along with catching a glimpse of the Living Goddesses of the valley – the Kumari. The huge statue of Bhairab unveiled in Kathmandu Durbar Square for Indra Jatra What is Indra Jatra about? Indra Jatra is known traditionally as Yanya Punhi which is Newari (the original settlers of the Kathmandu Valley) for “Kathmandu festival”. It’s also known as kumari Jatra. So in truth it’s about two to three celebrations all made into one. Watching the crowds grow for Indra Jatra in Kathmandu Indra is the hindu lord of rain and god of heaven. While the word jatra means procession or festival. History also tells a tale that the festival was to honor Bhairab, a manifestation of Shiva, who is believed to destroy evil. Indra, the lord of rain and god of heaven is decorated with flowers and blessings are given during his Indra Jatra What happens at Indra Jatra? Technically Indra Jatra is an eight day festival. But to be honest, for most people, you’ll really only see a spectacle on the the penultimate day. Commonly known as “Indra Jatra”. Music and laughter plays a big part in Indra Jatra There are several highlights during Indra Jatra The festival usually kicks off at 1pm at Kathmandu Durbar Square with several groups of tribal and local musicians arriving into the main area. The music is heavy on cymbals and drums. Young Kumari hopefuls by the large Indra statue during Indra Jatra A thirty-six foot wooden pole, selected with due ceremony from the Nala forest in Kavre in east Kathmandu, is brought in to represent Shiva’s Linga (Yasingh). The pole is balanced by a man and there’s a flag on top. It is believed Indra received this flag from Lord Vishnu for protection. The Linga (Yasingh), a wooden ceremonial pole makes its way into Durbar Square The massive Bhairab statue is unveiled (usually the day before and on the day) in Durbar Square where alcohol pours from his mouth. It’s quite a popular statue to visit as you might imagine! People dressed as demons enter the square and reenact mythical fights between the creatures. The Majipa Lakhey (demon) of Kathmandu along with other Lakheys – they will do battle with a small blue Jhyalincha who can’t win but always maddens the Lakhey before escaping! The music beat gets louder and the crowd surges a little. A stream of young men come running into the square followed by an elaborately decorated team dressed as a white elephant, Tana-kishi. The elephant is looking for his master Indra and charges along the streets creating mischief along with the men running beside him who lead the charge with a lit torch flame. The crowd erupts into cheers as the elephant Tana-kishi (white elephant) charges into the square looking for his master Indra! Finally after the dignitaries get their blessings the Living Goddesses enter the square in their special rope drawn chariots. Handlers throw out sacred carnations to onlookers. The Chariots are pulled by men and go through massive crowds. The Kumari chariots are pulled by heavy ropes into the square as Tana-kishi continues to dance through the crowds How to get the most out of Indra Jatra If you’d like to experience Indra Jatra the following might help as I’ve been there and experienced Indra Jatra myself. There are no tickets nor is payment required to attend Intra Jatra. Do arrive early to get a space to view it. Generally speaking the two best places are the platforms of the former Trailokya Mohan and Maju Dega temples (see my guidebooks to either Kathmandu Valley or Kathmandu city for a detailed map). You can climb all the way to the top which will have the best views. Make sure to bring some water and snacks. Likewise bring some sunscreen and or an umbrella to cope with the sun or, if Indra desires (it’s meant to be lucky), the rain. Everything is good natured but there will be a lot of people close to you. Small children and adults alike can get annoying as they push and shove for a vantage point. There’s no escaping this but do remember it’s all done in good nature. A good zoom lens on a camera will help capture things up close. Depending on the organisers whim tourists can often wander down to the square during the festivities. There are crowd surges, demons running around with sharp knives and a few chariots being heaved around so do watch your step! The Kumari Living Goddess rides her chariot through Kathmandu Durbar square during Indra Jatra as the crowd cheer and her helpers throw out blessed carnations When is Indra Jatra? Indra Jatra is a yearly festival on the day of the Bhadra Dwadasi to Ashwin Krishna Chaturdasi. A rough translation of this means that Indra Jatra falls on the last day of Summer on the full moon. Indra Jatra Festival Dates: Indra Jatra was on 27th September 2015 Indra Jatra will be on 17th September 2016 * Indra Jatra will be on October 6th 2017 * * based on lunar full moon More festivals in Nepal If you are interested in other Nepalese festivals do check out my list of festivals in Nepal. Get my Kathmandu Valley Guidebook to learn more about Nepal! The most up-to-date, popular and dedicated guidebook to the Kathmandu Valley in the world. Take a look below and you’ll find out why!

Find out more here!

Need a hotel in Nepal?

I recommend you try my own hotel search for Nepal.

The best online rates guaranteed!

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Nepals future looks on at what the constitution will bring

Nine long years after Nepal’s civil war the people finally have a constitution About nine years ago I arrived in Nepal. The country had just ended a civil war, had removed a monarchy and were still battling Maoist violence. Bandas (strikes were common) as were riots and protests. For the following nine years political turmoil hindered nearly all of Nepal’s development. People of all ages helped to make a giant Nepal country map on the road from flour and colored powder. Nepal’s downward struggle for democracy Nepal was once a country that exported produce to India but now imports most of their agricultural consumables from India. It is a country with a bizarre import tax of 200% on vehicles yet does not produce its own. Similarly electronics are taxed to exorbitant levels. Why? Because people should buy Nepalese … That’s great if you produce the product. But Nepal does not produce electronics either. Nepal’s constitution is for young and old alike For over a decade Nepal has suffered from power cuts (load shedding). A bit strange for a country with more hydro-power potential than many others on the planet. The people see power cuts of up to 16 hours a day in the winter. Various countries from Japan to the USA have offered to build Nepal hydro-power plants. Some projects even got started. Most lie half built with a river of red tape blocking their progress. Why? Nepal imports fuel for generators from India and taxes it heavily. The streets were filled with people celebrating their constitution The list goes on. And the people watched on as the tiny nation of 23 million saw over 130 political parties emerge. Gridlock, protests, political corruption and frustration reigned. September 20th 17.00 Nepal announces the new constitution In all my years in coming to Nepal there has been one constant on the daily newspapers. “Constitution countdown timer”. Sometimes it read 365 days. Other times it read 23 days or 163 days. In all cases within days of the deadline the whole thing would collapse. The people took the show for Nepal’s constitutional party 2015 saw a massive earthquake and its aftershocks rattle the nation. Nearly 10,000 died. The politicians have not been rebuilding with international aid money. They’ve been bickering again. However, the pressure was on. Not even the highly paid people in charge of the constitution over the past 9 years could change their fate. Happy faces for the new Nepalese constitution Violence was erupting once again. The people were becoming restless. Mother nature had spoken. Yesterday over 600 lawmakers overwhelmingly endorsed the constitution in the constitutional assembly. To celebrate with the nation or the people? I had the choice yesterday of attending the celebrations at the constitutional assembly or simply not go. I chose not to go. I, personally, found this nine year struggle of corruption, violence and local struggle not a time to celebrate the powers that be. I had been in a bus the day before and passed by the constitutional assembly when the dress rehearsals were going on. Pomp and pageantry by a few surrounded by many tax paid decorations while outside the people were stuck in gridlocked traffic and grim. Butter candles were lit around the street map A lady told me of a people’s celebration in Durbar Square at six in the evening where they would mark the peoples constitution with a simple butter candle celebration. I was still of two minds. I walked down Thamel as groups gathered in local communities. Chalk and paint were being used on the ground. Traffic ground to a halt. People gathered. Traffic police backed away. I continued on down when a friend jumped out at me with a big smile. “This way, this way, bring camera. We have our country back!” Celebrating with the people I looked on as a local community drew out their country on the road with flour and dye powders. Flags were drawn. Butter candles were placed around the flags and country. Young and old helped. There was no discrimination. Even a drunkard tried to help before he was brought to the back – with smiles from the locals. Giant Nepal map covered in butter candles made on the street Children gathered by the side of the road mural as community leaders broke out the loudspeakers. Interestingly there were no speeches about them. Only about Nepal and how it was a time to celebrate. No one talked for more than fifteen seconds. And, in the background, there was traditional music. As night fell people cheered “Nepal, Nepal, Nepal!” along with songs of passion and hope. Men, women and children posed for photos by the mural. There were smiles everywhere. Traffic at a standstill A bevy of shouts, trumpets and cheering came from the north as a precession of people with candles marched down the road. People sang and cheered for their country and their new rights. The new Nepal has finally arrived Behind them the traffic police sank into the archways of buildings. Powerless against the mass of goodwill. Thamel was traffic free. People were celebrating their new found constitution. It’s not the end but the beginning While many people celebrate the final confirmation of the constitution there still remains a lot that needs to be done. The constitution is not without controversy.  The new republic will become federal. With over 100 languages Nepal’s caste system and diverse ethnic population will be split into seven states. Boundaries of said states have yet to be finalised. People are still divided into whether this should happen or not. Forty people have died in clashes over the constitution in the Terai region. Many suspect hired groups coming from India to be the unseen trouble makers. Curfews were put in place. Smiles for the future While gay rights campaigners are delighted at the recognition of homosexuality and third genders, women’s rights campaigners have raised the astounding fact that single mother children cannot have their mothers citizenship. Similarly if a Nepali woman marries a foreign man, their children cannot become Nepali unless the man becomes Nepali (something that is not easy). However, if the father of the child is Nepali, the children can also be Nepali regardless of the wife’s nationality. More astoundingly the sexual abuse of boys is still not recognised as a crime. The vastly Hindu nation has become secular which has not made many happy. So while the new constitution is here, there remains disparity among many. Some claim it will merely aggravate the protests. Some say it’s the mark of a new beginning. Today there was meant to be a national strike. The good news is, there has been no strike. Hopefully that’s a sign of things to come. Nepal’s future If there’s one thing I took away from the street celebrations last night it’s this. Children are Nepal’s future. They stood celebrating and helped the adults on their own merit. They knew the importance of what was happening. The community leaders kept their speeches very short. They know too. It was not about them. These children are the future of Nepal and it seems they know it too While the political “elite” disappeared into closed banquet doors the people celebrated on the their streets. Much like during the earthquake and in daily life. The people are doing things on their own. They’ve had enough of waiting. The Nepalese people have learned that if you want something done right in Nepal, do it yourself. They have a constitution and they are working towards a better future. Congratulations on your new constitution Nepal! I was here when the constitution was proposed. I’ve wondered alongside you why it was taking so long. I’ve gasped with you every time it was set back. I felt frustrated just like you. I’ve hoped the best for you and your country along this long road. Thank you for taking the time to invite me to celebrate with you last night. The unique Nepalese flag and butter candles lit up the roads Nepal: Finally, back on top of the world!  Get my Kathmandu Valley Guidebook to learn more! The most up-to-date, popular and dedicated guidebook to the Kathmandu Valley in the world. Take a look below and you’ll find out why! Find out more here! Need a hotel in Nepal? I recommend you try my own hotel search for Nepal. The best online rates guaranteed!

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25% off Kathmandu Valley Guidebook!

September 15th marks the offical start to peak season in Nepal

While some hoteliers will make you believe “September”, as in September 1st, is the start to the peak season in Nepal, it’s really September 15th. The reason for this is simple – sometimes the monsoon season hangs on a few weeks.

This year the monsoon season has ended early. So the rains have eased and the bright blue Nepalese sky is starting to shine through. This is the start of perfect weather for trekking, jungle adventures, white water rafting and heritage visiting.

From now until December is the best time to visit Nepal!

25% off all the best selling Nepal guidebooks

With the year that Nepal has had I’m here now to support Nepal and to help you learn and experience the best Nepal has to offer.

To celebrate the start of peak season in Nepal I’m offering a 25% discount on all my top Guidebooks to Nepal!

There are no coupons to worry about as I’ve already reduced the price.

The sale ends September 21st, so don’t delay!

How is Nepal right now?

I’m here live on the ground and I can tell you that Nepal is just fine to visit!

• Trekking routes are open and active
• All hotels are open
• Restraunts are open
• The majority of heritage sites are open

If you’ve never been to Nepal before, there’s little evidence of earthquake devastation here unless you go looking for it.

If you have been to Nepal before then you will notice damage. Particularly in Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square last week!

Are there parts of Nepal to avoid?

• Langtang and Manaslu trekking routes are not ready for trekkers yet. But Everest Base Camp and all of the Annapurna treks are. See my list of treks in Nepal for an uptodate list.
• The far south west Terai region (which is not a tourist) should be avoided.
• Of all the heritage sites Kathmandu Durbar Square is not in good shape. You can still visit, but the earthquake damage and lack of reconstruction is very evident (I’ve met with the heritage department about this and will have a follow up in the coming weeks).

However, Bhaktapur (which I’ve always prefered) is in very good condition as is Patan and Kirtipur.

The best places to visit this season in Nepal

For culture and heritage:

Bhaktapur is the new king of heritage in Nepal – it’s being maintained and looked after a lot better than the capital. Stay a few nights in Bhaktapur and it’s like living in another ancient world – just amazing.

Patan is the crown prince of heritage in Nepal – even with two destroyed temples Patan Durbar Square is in pristine condition. Asides from that the great north and south parts of Patan offer up temples few people get to see. All listed as part of my walking tours in the Kathmandu Valley Guidebook.

25% off Pokhara guidebook

For adventure and trekking:

Everest Base Camp is open to trekkers right now!

Pokhara was not effected by the earthquake. The start of the Annapurna trailheads the resort town is filled with activities to do from boating, hiking, rafting, paragliding, micro-flights, massages and spas.

Chitwan National Park is another area not effected and offers up jungle treks, elephant washing, tiger spotting, raftign and more.

Lumbini is still the place to visit for all tourists wanting to visit the birthplace of The Buddha.

Want a real jungle adventure? Then head to Bardia National Park for a greater chance at seeing a tiger (Jan-April)

Visiting Nepal helps the people and country recover

I won’t hold back on any punches here. Since returning to Nepal I’ve been very disappointed in the lack of “official” rebuilding of heritage sites. However, I have seen a new hope.

Private heritage rebuilding is taking place. Organisations like the KVPT have already started work on 4 restoration projects including Mul Chowk in Patan.

By visiting Nepal yourself, independently, you are directly supporting Nepal, the people and places of Nepal that need it most. That guesthouse you stay at? Your nightly fee is helping them directly. That lunch you are in Bhaktapur, it’s helping to keep the restaurant open.

This is the reality of visiting Nepal. You will be directly helping the people and places in this great country.

25% off Bardia Guidebook

Why are my guidebooks to Nepal are better than the rest?

If you’ve already bought a BIG brand name guidebook then no problem. Just try downloading one of my smaller guidebooks from only $0.99 and you’ll see the difference!

My guidebooks offer you a real life look at the sites you will be visiting. Example: look at that BIG brand guidebook you have in your hand. Turn to Kathmandu Durbar Square and look at the map. Nice. But take a second look. Do the descriptions really tell you what you are looking at? All those small black lines and dots?

Now swing over to my guidebook to Kathmandu city. There’s no need to endlessly swipe to find Kathmandu Durbar Square just use your finger to click on the menu and you’ll be taken to that spot in the book – easy.

Interactive maps save time and make a huge difference to your trip to Nepal

Look at the nice big map of Kathmandu Durbar square with actual photographs showing you what and where each temple is! Nice eh? It gets better.

Simply click a temple on the map and you’ll be taken to a larger photo and description! Great!

Want to go back to the map to get your bearings? No problem, just click the map icon! It’s that easy. No more getting lost or twisting that guidebook map around.

I’ve built all my guidebooks to help you are a visitor to Nepal to get the most from your trip and to cut down on time wasting and to directly show you what you are looking for.

And yes these guidebooks work on all iPhones, iPads, Android tablets and phones, laptops and in print (minus the click bit of course!)

Even more:

Kathmandu city guidebook on mobile

Want more? No problem. I’ve personally visited all the hotels and restaurants listed in these books. From budget places to high end with no one knowing who I am other than just another guest.

Add in history chapters, transportation and so much more you won’t be disappointed!

These independant guidebooks to Nepal will show you Nepal like it really is. Try one, I promise you will see the difference right away.

Which Guidebooks to Nepal?

• If you are just visiting the Kathmandu Valley – I recommend my guidebook to The Kathmandu Valley which has 25% off right now!
• If you are visiting Pokhara for adventure and relaxation I recommend my guidebook to Pokhara which has 25% off right now!
• If you are only visiting Kathmandu city then I recommend my guidebook to Kathmandu city which also has 25% off now!
• Meanwhile for jungle adventures get my Chitwan guidebook – only $0.99!
• For Bardia you can also get 25% off

Finally, to get these offers take a look around all my guidebooks to Nepal as some are only $0.99!

All guidebooks can be viewed on iPhones, iPads, Android devices, laptops, PC’s and print!

The above post first appeared on 25% off Nepal Guidebooks to mark the start of peak season! which is © copyright 2015 www.thelongestwayhome.com
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Gai Jatra in Kathmandu – Festival of the Cow and remembering the Dead

A young girl dressed as a cow during Gai Jatra (the cow face is printed on the colorful headdress)

So what do cows and the celebration of death have to do with each other. And why is it a festival?! Read on to discover more about this amazing festival in Nepal. History of Gai Jatra Firstly, the cow is revered deeply in Hinduism. The cow is a symbol of the Earth. It gives and feeds which represents life and the support of life. Hence a festival dedicated to cows. King Pratap Malla facing his family home Lost in the annals of history it is said the people of the Kathmandu Valley worshiped Yamaraj (Yama), the Hindu “lord of death” on this day. During King Pratap Malla’s reign 1641 – 1664 his family were stuck by a tragedy when his son died. The king’s wife was grief stricken and inconsolable.  Distressed by his wife’s grief the king tried to cheer her up but failed at every attempt to make her smile. At his wits end the king finally offer a reward to anyone who could make his wife smile again. During Gai Jatra festival when the cow procession was passing my the window of 33 virtues in Kathmandu Durbar square a group of boisterous performers shocked everyone. Past meets present: The window of 33 virtues today in Kathmandu Durbar Square where king Malla and his wife watched the precession in the 17th century The group began ridiculing and mocking the rich, members of high society. While at the same time they highlighted the plight of the poor. They then showed the injustices within society with no mercy spared. The queen erupted into laughter! King Pratap Malla then ordered that laughter, jokes, satire and mockery should be included in the Gai Jatra festival from then on. Tradition then took foot and people who lost a family during the year would take part in the festival by leading a cow along the precession. If no cow is available then a young boy is used as a substitute.

Gai Jatra today in the Kathmandu Valley

Though Gai Jatra celebrates the dead it’s done so with laughter and happiness to send the souls in a happy after life – sometimes it takes a while …

Many participants in the festival are given milk from a cow as the cow represents symbol of wealth, strength, abundance, selfless giving and a full Earthly life

People shave their head after the recent loss of a family member

People, young and old,  who lost loved ones dress up during Gai Jatra

In Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan people often join Gai Jatra with photographs of loved ones who died during the year

Dressing up is an important part of Gai Jatra as it adds to the comical element that King Malla declared should be part of the festival in the 17th century

Each of the festivals in Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur have slightly separate meanings but are celebrated similarly on the same day

Colorful  dancer in Patan

The festival takes place over two days. There’s no need to stay in Patan as it’s close to Kathmandu city. What time does Gai Jatra start? Kathmandu Gai Jatra: 8am – 11am Bhaktapur Gai Jatra: 1pm – 8pm Patan Gai Jatra: 8am – 5pm The Scouts of Nepal were volunteering to help keep the area clean – well done to them as they did a great job Tips and help to enjoy Gai Jatra in Nepal In Kathmandu Sadhus were already gathering between 7-8am. A colorful bunch but very money oriented. Even looking at one with a camera will have them coming up asking for money. Likewise street children are often found to be asking for money throughout the day. Do be careful giving money to either group as you could quickly be surrounded by many all looking for the same. By 8 am people started arriving dressed in colorful attire. Processions start at a trickle which is very nice for those that don’t like crowds. Families walk through Durbar Squares in small groups. People stand beside the procession and hand family members dressed up food (fruit, biscuits, sweets) and small denominations of money as they walk by. It’s perfectly fine to photograph people dressed up. Just don’t block the middle of the walkway. Don’t expect any “offical” help from event organisers – local people will be your best source of information It is very possible to make the festival in Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur on the same day. But, you’ll need to use a taxi if you wish to visit all three and spend time there. Alternatively you could leave the Kathmandu Gai Jatra at between 10am-11am take a taxi to the bus park and then a bus to Bhaktapur to be there by 1pm.

Two colorful  youngsters taking a quiet break from the festivities of Gai Jatra

Get my Kathmandu Valley Guidebook to learn more! The most up-to-date, popular and dedicated guidebook to the Kathmandu Valley in the world. Take a look below and you’ll find out why! Find out more here! Need a hotel in Nepal? I recommend you try my own hotel search for Nepal. The best online rates guaranteed!

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The Potala Palace Lhasa, Tibet

Yes, you can visit Tibet in 2015/2016 but here are some things to know first

One of the most popular questions I get is how to travel from Nepal to Tibet overland. It’s a very easy thing to do as that previous link to my guide will show. Likewise from mainland China into Tibet it’s also very easy. Due to strict permits and security checks there really is only one option – take a tour.

However, since the 2008 uprising in Tibet, China has constantly changed the regulations, document requirements and outright closed off access to Tibet for everyone.

Last week new rumors popped up that China was planning to close off Tibet to foreign visitors for the 2015 – early 2016 seasons as it’s the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Tibet Autonomous Region.

I took this to task and visited the main Nepal Tibet overland organizers this week and here’s what I found out.

Tibetan village woman

Nepal to Tibet overland tours are closed until the 26th of October 2015

This is not due to Chinese regulations, but due to damage to the road from both the 2015 earthquake and post earthquake landslides. The friendship bridge that joins Nepal and Tibet is closed to all traffic aside from one-way commercial vehicles.

Does that mean Tibet is closed to foreigners? No, Tibet it open to foreigners. The Nepal – Tibet road is closed by the border only. Tours are being arranged by flying into Lhasa from Kathmandu. However, Lalung-La pass, Shigatse to Gyantse are not on offer. You can access these locations from mainland China tours to Tibet only.

From October 26th on Nepal – Tibet overland tours are open again – pending road repairs.

Are there restrictions on nationality to enter Tibet?

The bizarre ban on Indian Nationals to Mount Kailash is no longer in effect. Likewise there is no current ban on nationalities looking to obtain a permit.

The equally bizarre requirement on having to be on a group permit with people of the same nationality is also no longer being enforced.

Buddha statue in a Tibetan Monastery

What permits are required to enter Tibet?

I’ve written answers to all permit questions on my guide to traveling to Tibet overland – please read it if you are preparing.

The most important rule is – you don’t need a Chinese visa to enter Tibet from the Nepal side. You need a Tibet permit. From the China side you will need a Chinese visa to enter China, plus a Tibet permit.

Again, please read the guide.

Will China close off access to Tibet again?

It’s highly likely they will. Every year since 2008 they’ve closed off access to Tibet from late February to late March due to the uprising. So I really wouldn’t plan a trip to Tibet then.

At other times of the year it’s at the whim of the Chinese government when it comes to changing the regulations. As the tour operators told me.

“They only tell us verbally a week before any changes. They never do it in writing. And it’s never clear when or why this is happening.”

Generally speaking over the past few years access has not been cut off so frequently as it was before. As a safe bet have a back up plan. Bhutan from Nepal is a popular choice. As is extending a stay in Nepal.

Do confirm with your travel agent that all is okay before you travel. And, keep an eye on the news. If you see something like a demonstration in Tibet or mainland China about Tibet the officials usually get jumpy and close it off.

Yamdrok Lake in Tibet

Have Tibet overland tours gone up in price?

Again I cover this in my guide.

Last year the Chinese government insisted that all the Nepal – Tibet overland vehicles be scrapped and only new Chinese vehicles could be used. This has led to an increase in Tibet tour costs.

Purchasing online tours range from ridiculous to obscene in terms of cost. The lowest cost I was quoted for a walk-in Nepal-Tibet 7 night 8 day overland group tour was USD $670. The highest was USD$5,000.

There are now only 3 official tour operators in Kathmandu. I list them in my Kathmandu Valley Guidebook. Including contact information. Please don’t email me for the information. Just buy the book

More information on traveling Nepal to Tibet Overland

You can get all the information you need, plus itineraries and permit details on my updated free guide on traveling to Tibet overland.

The above post first appeared on Is China still allowing foreign tourists to visit Tibet? which is © copyright 2015 www.thelongestwayhome.com
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Avocado Salad in Thailand

I am a carnivore. The type that’s nearly always hungry if they don’t have meat in a meal. I do eat loads of vegetables though. But, always with meat.

In Thailand dishes are usually quite small to begin with so I’ve never once thought of “just” ordering a vegetarian dish. I’d be starving afterwards. That all changed on my most recent trip to Thailand.

Stir fried rice with mushrooms and vegetables (my octo-vegetarian option)

I’d eaten a late breakfast and was waiting at a restaurant with a coffee. It was lunch time and I knew I should eat something but I wasn’t very hungry, so I took a chance and went with the vegetarian option of rice with mushroom and vegetables.

What arrived was beautifully presented. So very tasty. And, filling. It was the start of a journey into eating vegetarian in Thailand.

The best vegetarian meals I’ve had were in Thailand

I’ve tried vegetarian meals from the Americas to Europe to Asia. Some have been tasty but all have been lacking that “something” to ever make me want to come back for another vegetarian meal quite so soon again.

A huge plate of Avocado salad in Thailand

In Thailand I keep coming back.

I’ve had daily heapings of five mushroom stir fry on a regular basis every week. It’s so good. I’m a mushroom lover and the strong flavors of five types of mushroom with five different textures is just wonderful.

Got a super appetite? Try a Thai avocado salad. I wasn’t expecting much. But take a look at this plate. It’s a huge serving. There’s half a large avocado in there. Three types of lettuce. Cherry tomatoes. Olives. Four types of nuts (no peanuts) from sunflower to pumpkin. Sweetcorn, red kidney beans and some grains along with a strawberry vinaigrette.

Yes, if you look closely there are four prawns in there. I didn’t know they were in the salad. But after asking for the menu I saw that you can request them to be excluded.  My bad, but hey. I was a mini piscivore and even without them the dish was impressive.

I was stuffed too!

Where to find the best vegetarian meals in Thailand?

Just about anywhere. Most tourist menus will have a healthy number of vegetarian options. What’s more menus that have dishes with meat in them will give you a choice of what meat to eat and/or if you just want the vegetarian option.

Need a vegetarian sweet snack? There’s nothing quite like a dish of Thai mango and sticky rice!

One of the local places I go to eat offers Kale with pork/chicken or tofu with rice. I do not like tofu at all! So I ask for an egg (ovo-varian) instead. The meals are small, cost 40-50 baht so the egg helps.

The real trick in all this “find the best place for a vegetarian meal” seems to involve “money”.

In mid to upper level restaurants vegetarian meals are often around the 120-180 baht level. But wow are they impressively good. Worth it for a dedicated vegetarian needing something substantial after a day out.

The variety of vegetarian dishes in Thailand is impressive

In a local restaurant I counted twenty vegetarian rice dishes and twenty vegetarian noodle dishes. That’s impressive. And that’s a local place where there’s no meal over 80 baht.

Kale, spinach, morning glory, pumpkin, beans, mushrooms the list goes on. With Thailand’s diverse ecology it’s got some of the best farming lands for vegetables in South East Asia. I’ve often been in other countries when I’d get a craving for something. In Thailand this is often not a hard thing to solve.

Five mushroom stir fry in Thailand

I regularly gorge on mangosteen, rambutan or passion fruits when I’m in Thailand. They are cheap, so good and very tasty. Certainly a lot better for late night snacks than bars of chocolate or starchy snacks from 7-11.

Can eating salads in Thailand make you sick?

I’ve never been sick eating a salad in Thailand. I do however only eat salads in mid level restaurants.  Not because of safety, but because they are generally better there.

For everywhere else, including rock bottom budget cafes, I’ve eaten cooked vegetarian food en masse and never once been sick.

Even if you are a meat lover, try a vegetarian option in Thailand at least once!

I drool when I see all the barbeque meats on offer along the night markets in Thailand. I sit down and salivate over the duck dishes, stir fried pork or roasted chicken sizzling away.

Kanom Krok – Coconut Rice Pancakes

I know where to get good kobe steak in Thailand. However, I’m really and truly impressed with vegetarian meals in Thailand.

I make Gordon Ramsey and Bourdain look tame in my finesse for tasty, value for money good nutritious food when traveling

So much am I impressed that I have no hesitation in ordering a mushroom with kale noodle dish anymore. I’m not hungry afterwards at all! The variety and style of fresh cooking makes all the difference.

I’ve only recently discovered the joy of Thai vegetarian food after many visits to the kingdom. Don’t make the same mistake.

I encourage everyone to try a vegetarian meal in Thailand at least once and compare it to other places you’ve been. I think you’ll be as impressed as I was.

This is an additional post featuring Thai food

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Looking to spend up to 14 days in Nepal? From the golden loop to the sliver triangle and more. Here are the itineraries you need to make the most out of your trip!

Can you have a great time in Nepal with only two weeks?

Long trips to Nepal are the best way to get the most from this great country. However this is not always possible with today’s working lifestyle. I’ve already written a popular one week itinerary for Nepal.

However, if you have 14 days you’ll fit twice as much into your trip plan which is even better!

With new budget airline routes from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and New Delhi opening up there has been an unprecedented rise in shorter trips to Nepal.

I’ve had great people from Malaysia and India wanting to make the most of these new offers as well as tourists visiting Thailand and India who never thought it possible to make it to Nepal so easily.

I’ve been to Nepal many times for both long and short stays. Although my next one is a long stay I’m taking two weeks off to enjoy myself when I arrive. As such, I’m considering myself a 14 day tourist to Nepal and this is how I’m planning it out and, how I would plan it out for you too.

Start planning with the time of year

This is the most crucial part of your itinerary. “When are you going to Nepal” is nearly as important as “how long will you be in Nepal”. Nepal has a four season temperate climate which will affect what you can do there at certain times of the year.

• September to late November is peak season. This is just after the monsoon season so the air is dry and clear. This is the perfect time for visiting Nepal for trekking and other activities.
• December, January & February are cold winter months throughout Nepal. It doesn’t snow in any of the main non-trekking cities in Nepal but it does hit freezing levels. There’s also a substantial lack of electricity at this time.
• February to April is Nepal’s second busiest tourist season with warmer temperatures throughout. Climate change often means downpours towards the end of this period.
• May to June is the start of the monsoon season. Short and long showers are more frequent and flight delays are getting more common. It can get brutally hot and humid.
• June to August is monsoon season is in full swing and you better come ready to get wet. Leeches are out in the valleys and flight delays are very common.

Now you should know what to expect weather wise depending on the time of year. There’s more detailed information about the best time to visit Nepal here and more on Nepal weather here.

Festivals in Nepal

Nepal has more festivals throughout the year than many other countries. Do check out my list of festival dates in Nepal.

If you arrive during the Holi festival then be prepared to get hit by bags of color! Holi is one of the best festivals in Nepal so it might be worth your while planning to be in Nepal when the festival occurs.

Planning a trip to Nepal? Try to be there for one of the great festivals!

What type of holiday do you want in Nepal?

With 14 days in Nepal you can split your holiday up a little in terms of what you want from your holiday. Thinking about what Nepal primarily offers helps: culture & history, trekking, jungle, adventure sports & relaxation.

There’s no reason you can’t do a little of everything. Just don’t expect to fit everything in as you’ll end up missing the best parts of Nepal in the rush. For planning, here are some outlines for people looking to only cover one aspect of an activity in Nepal.

• Trekking: The most common question for trekkers is wondering if they can trek to Everest Base Camp with only 14 days. You can! With planning. But it’s going to be tight and you won’t have time for much else. There’s also a lot more to trekking in Nepal than Everest so you might also want to look for something completely new! Weather planning tip: Monsoon season is not the best time for views!
• Culture & History: The good news for culture and history lovers is that you can cover all the main cultural sites within a week in Nepal. Meaning you’ll have plenty of time left to fit in other things. The Kathmandu Valley is Nepal’s primary attraction for culture. Yes there more, but let’s start there and see what else we can fit in! Weather planning tip: available all year round
• Jungle visits: Jungle lovers will have several options open to them too. Nepal has several national parks to choose from but again it’s up to you in regards to what you want to see. Either way it’s all very feasible with two weeks. Weather planning tip: avoid early monsoon season and monsoons season
• Adventure sports: Adventure sports can range from bungee jumping, zip-lining, paragliding, white water rafting and climbing. Weather planning tip: Again, monsoon season makes white water rafting and paragliding touch and go depending on that day’s outlook.

We’ve now covered the basics of what can be done in Nepal and at what time of year. By now I hope you are starting to get a clearer idea of what you might like to accomplish during your holiday.

There are of course ways to speed things up in Nepal if you want to fit a lot in. I’ll cover this later, but for now let’s move on to specific itineraries for a two week holiday in Nepal.

2-14 Day trekking Itineraries in Nepal

With 14 days you can trek to Everest Base Camp, Annapurna base camp and a whole many more.

There are quite a few treks you can do in Nepal from under a week all the way to two weeks. Just remember that you’ve already lost two days – your arrival and your departure days! Here are ways to speed things up to help maximize your time for trekking.

Domestic flight delays are common in Nepal so if you are planning to fly to Pokhara for trekking in the Annapurna region then you’ll need to book ahead with an agency beforehand. Likewise if you need a guide waiting for you. Yes, you can spend another day in Pokhara or Kathmandu looking for a guide but do really need that pressure? Most likely you don’t.

Arranging a guide ahead of time will save you time if you really need all your days for trekking. If you want a recommended guide then you can contact me and I’ll send you their details. Meanwhile here’s my article on how to choose a trekking guide in Nepal.

Short treks in Nepal

Most short treks listed are Pokhara based. Pokhara is a 7am – 2pm bus trip from Kathmandu. Or a 30 minute flight from Kathmandu. Or a 6 hour car trip. These treks are great if you are mixing in culture and trekking into your trip to Nepal as they give you time to do both within two weeks.

To squeeze an extra day or two into your favor, book ahead with a guide as they can help in pre-booking your trekking permits plus either air, bus or private transport to Pokhara which will speed things up a lot.

There’s some good news if you don’t want a big trek but would like to see “something”

Nagarkot is very close to Bhaktapur and you can easily combine the two trips into something like 2 nights in Bhaktapur and 2 nights in Nagarkot etc.

Nagarkot’s trek is more of a “morning hike” than a trek. But it is a green belt area and with good weather you will see the himalayan range.

Big or small treks await in Nepal

Medium length treks in Nepal

If you’ve read my one week itinerary for Nepal then you’ll have seen Mardi Himal in the shorter treks list. You can however do it in under 5 days, but you’ll be missing out. With two weeks in Nepal dedicating 5 nights to it will make the most out of this great trek.

Everest Base Camp is the big trek for many people with two weeks travel time in Nepal. You can read my dedicated Everest Base Camp Trek guide for more precise information. With two weeks available you can make this trek. My advice is that if you want to see more of Nepal, like the heritage sites of Kathmandu Valley, then book your trek ahead of time.

By booking ahead you will have all your permits, guide and flights to Lukla waiting for you when you arrive. It means you don’t have to go looking for them and waste a day or two out of your sightseeing itinerary. However, be aware of online trekking agencies overcharging for this trek. Some charge up to 50% more than a guide already based in Nepal.

If you’d like the details of the guide I use and recommend feel free to contact me.

Lastly, if you really want a close up view of Everest there are plenty of daily Everest mountain flights that will take you right up close to Mount Everest. They are very popular with people on short time frames who want to see as much as possible.

Here’s my detailed list on the above short treks in Nepal

14 Day “Golden Loop” Itinerary

A great mixed itinerary where you can fit in a lot of  Nepal’s sights and activities:

Take the golden loop itinerary and visit many of Nepal’s heritage sites

Like all good itineraries this Golden Loop itinerary is not set in stone. If you want to spend an extra day somewhere, you can. It just means you will be spending 1 day less somewhere else depending on your interests. i.e. one day less looking at heritage sites means you can fit in a day of kayaking, trekking or relaxing.

The Golden Loop itinerary includes: heritage, culture, adventure sports, relaxation, jungle activities and some trekking.

• Day 1: Arrive, check into hotel take a look around Thamel to get your bearings.
• Day 2: Take an early morning taxi out to Boudhanath to walk around the great stupa and see some Buddhist monks in nearby monasteries. Walk or take a taxi to Pashupathimet. Take a taxi back to Thamel for lunch before heading to Patan city. If you don’t have time for Patan then visit either Swayambhunath or Kathmandu Durbar Square.
• Day 3: Take a bus to Pokhara, arriving in the afternoon and explore lakeside.
• Day 4: Take a boat ride across the lake, hike to the World Peace Stupa, visit Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave and Davis Falls before heading back to lakeside for a sunset over the lake.
• Days 5,6,7 + (trekking): Take a short trek to enjoy the Annapurna mountain range (see the list of short treks above) .
• Day 8: Take a bus to Chitwan National Park, arriving at lunch time. Spend the afternoon on a Elephant safari or elephant bathing.
• Day 9: Do a full day jungle trek in Chitwan.
• Day 10: Take a bus to Lumbini arriving at lunch time either making a quick afternoon visit to Lumbini Development Zone or rest up and make a full day in the development zone the next day.
• Day 11: Either a full day in Lumbini development zone if you did not get to see anything yesterday or head back to Kathmandu if you did. See notes below *
• Day 12: Take an early morning bus back to Kathmandu. Check out either Swayambhunath or Kathmandu Durbar Square if you missed them earlier or go souvenir shopping to relax after your bus journey.
• Day 13: Take a taxi or bus out to Bhaktapur and spend either an over night there or a full day enjoying the well preserved heritage sites and souvenir stores.
• Day 14: Depending on your flight time you can spend the morning shopping in Thamel or by checking some of Kathmandu’s lesser known sites like the Kathesimbhu stupa or simply chill out at the Garden of Dreams (here’s a list of things to see and do in Kathmandu).

* Lumbini is generally of interest to those who want to see where Buddha was born. The area is not that well developed and offers little in terms of activities. Most people who don’t have an interest in Buddhism find it a little disappointing. If you feel this may be you then substitute the two days in Lumbini with an additional day or two in Pokhara, Bhaktapur, Patan or Kathmandu where there is more to see or do.

14 Day “Silver Triangle” Itinerary

An itinerary that takes you to the cities of Pokhara, Chitwan and Lumbini for adventure activities, trekking, jungle safaris and some spirituality  

Take to the air and go paragliding in Pokhara

The Silver Triangle itinerary is for those who don’t have a huge interest in heritage sites, architecture or the Kathmandu Valley. It focuses more on adventure sports, adrenaline activities, mountains and jungle.

The Silver Triangle itinerary includes: Adventure, leisure and adrenaline sports, hiking, relaxation, jungle activities and some trekking.

• Day 1: Arrive into Kathmandu, check into hotel take a look around Thamel to get your bearings and if you have the time do check out Durbar Square.
• Day 2: Take a bus or plane to Pokhara, check out lakeside’s lake and shopping area.
• Day 3: Take a boat ride across the lake, hike to the World Peace Stupa, visit Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave and Davis Falls before heading back to lakeside for a sunset over the lake.
• Day 4: Take a sunrise trip to Sarangkot for a beautiful look at the mountains. Then, take to the air with a paragliding session.
• Day 5,6,7,8+: Go trekking into the mountains (choose from either the short trek list or one of the medium Annapurna treks) or go white water rafting.
• Day 9: Take a day of relaxation in Pokhara after your trek or rafting with a therapeutic massage, visit a Tibetan settlement or enjoy one of the many cafes that over look the lake while taking in some souvenir shopping. If you still have energy to burn, go zip-lining or take to the air with a micro-light flight.
• Day 10: Take a bus to Chitwan National Park, arriving at lunch time spend the afternoon on a Elephant safari or elephant bathing.
• Day 11: Do a full jungle trek in Chitwan.
• Day 12: Take a bus to Lumbini arriving at lunch time either make a quick afternoon visit to Lumbini Development Zone or rest up and make a full day in the development zone the next day.
• Day 13: Either a full day in Lumbini development zone if you did not get to see anything yesterday or head back to Kathmandu if you did.
• Day 14: Depending on your flight time you can spend you could easily fit in an early morning Everest Flight tour. Or spend the morning shopping in Thamel or chill out at the Garden of Dreams (here’s a full list of things to see and do in Kathmandu).

*There is a visit to Lumbini for those seeking a little bit of meditation or spirituality though it can be substituted with more days in Pokhara or Chitwan if that’s not to your liking.

Like I said at the start, none of the above is written in stone. If you don’t want to go trekking then you could go rafting, kayaking, mountain biking or even do some additional paragliding. If walks and hikes are more your thing then check out Rupa & Begnas lake. Likewise if you just want to rest and relax Pokhara has spas, meditation centers and a bevy of places to sit out under the sun and enjoy the scenery.

Go on a jungle trek in the Chitwan National Park

Jungle visits and tiger watching itineraries

So you want to see tigers and trek through the jungle eh? No problem. From Kathmandu there are daily buses to Chitwan National Park and Bardia National Park. A bus to Chitwan takes about 5 hours and is a little more efficient than flying there. Bardia on the otherhand can take up to 16 hours to reach by bus.

Itineraries in Chitwan are flexible and easily pre-planned. I don’t advise pre-booking anything in Chitwan aside from your guest house or hotel. Jungle Treks never book out here and you can literally book one the night before.

The amount of days you spend exploring the jungles of Chitwan is up to you. At the minimum a two night stay will let you do most of the basics.

• Day 1: Arrive into Chitwan (Sauraha) check into hotel, take a stroll through the village and walk along the river before dinner alongside it (relax). Arrive, check into hotel get to Elephant Jungle Safari (rush).
• Day 2-6: Jungle treks can either be for a day or several days. The choice is yours. Remember the weather conditions from earlier and see what you feel like. The deeper into the jungle you go the more you are likely to see rarer wild animals. This can be done either on foot or by a more expensive jeep safari.

Additional days: There’s not much else to do in Chitwan aside from jungle activities. There is however an elephant breeding center, elephant washing and ox cart rides to local villages along with long sunsets on the rivers. If that appeals to you then you can stay. Otherwise if you just came to Chitwan for a single trek you should now have enough time for a bus ride to Pokhara or back to Kathmandu. Check out my full guide to Chitwan for more information.

Elephant washing in Chitwan National Park

For trips to Bardia National Park you will have to prearrange your resort accommodation and to an extent your jungle trip. Bardia is not as commercialised as Chitwan. There really is no shopping or restaurants aside from resorts. What you get with Bardia, unlike Chitwan, is a near-on untouched jungle experience.

Though there are less tigers in Bardia there’s a greater chance at seeing them here than in Chitwan. Again, how long you stay is up to how much of the jungle you want to experience. Overnight stays in the jungle are not allowed however overnight stays in the buffer zones are. Many people will do two or three full treks in a row. Jeep safaris will bring you deeper in the jungle too.

Considering the travel time most people plan up to 5 days for trip to Bardia National Park. Do check out my exclusive guidebook to Bardia for much more detail.

After all those busy activites chill out and relax in Pokhara

Making your travel times more efficient in Nepal

The above itineraries can all be accomplished by you with a little bit of planning and preparation. One of the most important aspects of traveling on a timeframe in Nepal is arriving back into Kathmandu at least one day in advance of your departure date. This is important as sometimes buses get delayed so it’s important to stay a little ahead rather than miss a flight!

Likewise I’ve written these itineraries in order of ease. For example, in terms of transportation, it’s easier to go Kathmandu – Pokhara – Chitwan – Lumbini than Kathmandu – Chitwan – Pokhara – Lumbini.

With two weeks fitting in Lumbini is not problem … neither is spending more days trekking or doing some white water rafting in the himalayas

Last minute tips for a two week holiday in Nepal

If you are going trekking then bring as much of what you need as possible instead of wasting time shopping. Good solid trekking boots/shoes are a must. While a rain/windproof jacket, sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat can be purchased locally if you want.

You shouldn’t need sleeping bags for the short treks depending on the time of year.  Everything else can be picked up locally or by your trekking guide.

Do have spare batteries and a touch light. Nepal has terrible electrical load shedding. If you are addicted to your electronics then bring as many spare batteries as you will need for your stay. Alternatives include power packs for your mobile phone or tablet.

For souvenir shopping stick to Bhaktapur or the market outside the tourist office in Kathmandu Durbar Square. Thamel is great but more expensive and it can get quite crowded. If you are not spending much time in the Kathmandu Valley then shop in Pokhara’s Lakeside area.

Need a better guide book to Nepal?

If you found this article helpful, insightful or useful I’ve something even better that you can read on your tablet, phone, computer or even print. Check out my next generation of the best guidebooks to Nepal.

Wrapping it up: your two week stay in Nepal

When you arrive into Kathmandu airport you’ll need to have passport photos and USD in hand for your visa. Check out my post on arriving into Kathmandu airport for more. Believe me, it will save you some time having them ready.

I’m going to leave this article open to comments for any questions you might have. Or if you’ve been to Nepal and have any suggestions or alternative itineraries you’d like to make feel free to leave them here.

As you can see so far you can get a lot done in Nepal within 14 days!

Planning on booking a hotel room in Kathmandu?

Here are my personal reviews of hotels in Kathmandu

The above post first appeared on Nepal in two weeks: planning a visit with a 14 day itinerary which is © copyright 2015 www.thelongestwayhome.com
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The magnificent Wat Sa Si at night

Visiting Sukhothai Historical Park at Night Most people only think about visiting Sukhothai Historical park during the day. I highly recommend you try to visit it at night when it is lit up beautifully. You’ll get all the temples in a beautiful setting & see few people One of the reasons very few people visit Sukhothai historical park at night is that there’s very little information about it being open at night. Including at the park! Saturday night lights at Sukhothai Historical Park During peak season in Thailand the authorities at Sukhothai Historical park tend to turn the lights on at night during the weekdays. However if it’s not busy then don’t expect to see them turned on except for a Saturday night! Spotlights show off the temples at night in a very different way than during the day If in doubt, ask at the information counter at the main Sukhothai historical park entrance. Transport at night in Sukhothai Historical Park There is none! Yes, another inconvenience. But it’s easily solved. You just need to hire a tuk tuk driver to meet you at the entrance or a nearby restaurant at a certain time. Wat Sa Si at night in Sukhothai There is no public tram inside the park at night either. But the good news is that it gets dark quickly and you’ll be done in an hour. Bring a torch Even though the statues and ruins are lit up you might want to bring a torch with you. The lights are focused on the ruins and not the ground which is quite dark. At night many features get highlighted in a way you might not notice during the day Likewise it’s worth bringing some bug repellent. Personally I didn’t come across any but the lights can attract various insects if you get too close. Stand back and you’ll be fine. Bring a tripod It goes without saying. If you want to take nice photos at night in Sukhothai then you’ll need to bring a tripod with you. One of the standing Buddha statues at Wat Mahathat lit up at night Be prepared for uneven ground as well. This is where that head torch will come in handy! Like the information on this page? Check out my latest guide to Sukhothai Historical Park and make the most out of your trip! Don’t wander off alone Although the main areas of Sukhothai Historical Park are well lit up some of the smaller temples are not. This is especially true along the paths. If you are travelling alone be cautious. Even the more plain temples look nice at night The best lit and most popular area at night is the central zone. The other zones are not as well lit up in comparison Is it worth an extra night just to see the temples lit up? No. But if you are staying in Sukhothai overnight then it’s very much worth it to ask, when you go in, if there will be lights on that night. If there are and you want to make the most of your trip – then go! Wat Sa Si with lights bouncing off the night moat water and stonework What time are the lights turned on at night? It depends on the time of year. Generally speaking, on the nights they are turned on, they will turn them on as the sunsets. When I was there the park stayed open until 9pm. If you have the time, try visiting Sukhothai Historical Park at night to see the ruins in a whole new light. The most important thing to remember when visiting Sukhothai Historical Park at night is to have your transport arranged if you are not staying opposite the park. There is virtually no transport around after 9pm. So pre-arrange your tuk tuk in advance. Or ask a restraunt near the park gates to help arrange transport back for you at a certain time. Entrance fees into Sukhothai Historical Park Entrance to Sukhothai Historical park = 100 baht Bicycle surcharge = 10 baht Mystery all section ticket = 350 baht (if you can find the right person) Food and drinks are a touch and go affair in the park. There are a few cafes. They aren’t too outrageously expensive. But if you are on a budget bringing one’s own water will half your cost. It’s 2 kilometers from the central zone ticket office to the northern section. The main road there is surfaced, flat and quite easy to use via a bicycle. The park is open from 6am-18.00 (night visits are allowed when displayed – or to be sure just ask!). Keep in mind the bicycle shops closed between 17.30 and 18.00 too. Planning on booking a hotel room in Sukhothai? Here are the best online rates guaranteed! I recommend you try my own hotel search for Sukhothai

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Thai Beef & Gravy – not what you might think!

Give Thai beef and gravy a try!

I’m a big beef fan but not much of a beef and gravy fan. It’s also never been something that I’ve found done well in Asia. Usually beef in gravy has been thinly sliced bits of beef in a gelatinous sauce. I decided to give Thailand’s beef and gravy a try recently and was pleasantly surprised.

It’s certainly not a “western” version of this dish. And, it’s key to never think about this version either. In some ways it’s better not to think of it as beef in a meat sauce than gravy in the traditional sense.

A tasty filling meal in Thailand

What does Thai beef in gravy taste like?

The beef is in typical thin slices. The major plus factor here is that there are no chillies found in this dish at all. So it’s great for non-spicy food lovers. Or those recovering from some thing too spicy the day before!

It’s also served in a bowl and not a plate as the gravy is more like a thick soup than a sunday roast drizzle. Don’t be put off though as the gravy is quite mild and palatable.

There’s usually some leafy vegetable mixed in as well which adds to the overall constitution of the dish.

It’s not spicy. The gravy is meaty and the beef soft with crunchy vegetables adding to quite an enjoyable dish.

Where can I get Thai beef in gravy?

It’s not that easy to find Thai beef in gravy. I found it usually added as an afterthought on many menus in tourist areas. I didn’t find it in any food court but there are a few places selling them in malls. However it’s too expensive to justify buying in malls. A better option is to simply look out for it around any of the mid-level restaurants near tourist sites you might be near.

Now that you know what Thai style beef and gravy is, compared to what you have thought it was, it might be worth trying!

This is an additional article featuring Thai food

Planning on booking a hotel room in Thailand?

Here are the best online rates guaranteed!

I recommend you try my own hotel search for Thailand.

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Wat Sra Sri And Tra Pang Tra Kuan in Sukhothai, Thailand

Unknown & lesser visited temples of Sukhothai Historical Park Most of the big impressive temples have already been covered in my guide to Sukhothai Historical Park. They are all really worth visiting as obligatory – must sees. But what of the others that you’ll walk by on the way? Those large brick chedi’s, broken wats and in some cases chunks of stone scattered around a field, are they worth visiting? Let’s take a look at the other side of Sukhothai and the ruins that you might be passing like everyone else but should really stop and discover. Wat Sra Sri & Tra Pang Tra Kua Perhaps the best known of the lesser known wats in Sukhothai this complex containing a massive Chedi. Wat Sra Sri And Tra Pang Tra Kua In front of the Chedi is an assembly hall where only the columns that once supported the roof now remain. Ta Pha Daeng Shrine Located to the north of Sukhothai historical park this laterite shrine was built in Khmer style. High chambers look out from the west and eastern sides with the easter side being longer. Ta Pha Daeng Shrine During excavation work here statues of various Hindu gods and goddesses were found adorned with gems. The shrine is believed to be from the early 12th century. Wat Chana Songkhram There is a huge bell shaped Chedi here that towers over an assembly hall similar to many others found in Sukhothai. What’s really interesting is that in front of the assembly hall is an unusual smaller chedi. Wat Chana Songkhram This much smaller ornate chedi is similar to others in Si Satchanalai (another historic park near Sukhothai). Such distinctive markings place it firmly in the Ayutthaya period. Wat Chedi Yod Hak This wat is actually outside of Sukhothai Historical Park’s official grounds. It’s located on the east of the park along the main road to Sukhothai city to the left. Alongside the wat ruins are several local houses. If you are driving by you might even miss it! Wat Chedi Yod Hak Wat Chedi Yod Yak is no more than over 24 stone columns in various states of collapse that once supported a roof. Behind them is a large brick temple in an equal state of ruin. What’s nice here is that this wat shows how valued it still is. Children from the local neighbourhood play amongst the ancient ruins with glee. There is no vandalisim here. No graffiti and people still place Buddha statues here. Wat on Khao This small temple is largely in ruins and little is known about it. Wat on Khao is located near the north gate and Wat Sorasak. There is a small assembly hall here in ruins. Wat on Khao Wat on Khao is best known for its lotus like chedi appearance. As there was no name for the temple found during excavations Wat on Khao was named by local residence in 1965. Wat Sorasak This temple is famed for the elephant statues that run around it’s base. Elephants in Sukhothai were once seen as beasts of burden for the emperor. Wat Sorasak According to an inscription found at the temple, Wat Sorask was built prior to the 14th century. It was built by Nai Intha Sorasak who was granted the land by the emperor to build a temple dedicated to him. Wat Tao Thu Riang Yes, some wat’s are no more than just bricks. This is the case of Wat Tao Thu Riang. Wat Tao Thu Riang Still today locals adorn it with more modern Buddha statues. Wat Tra Kuan This temple is said to be from the 15th century. Wat Tra Kuam means Phak Bung or Morning Glory which is a vegetable. Wat Tra Khan There is a chedi and an ordination hall still standing here but like most the hall has no roof. There are however some early buddha images located around the area. Monument of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great Finally there is a statue of the third king of Sukhothai King Ramkhamhaeng the Great. He is credited for creating the modern Thai alphabet. King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, Sukhothai, Thailand The statue was opened in 1969. It is made from bronze and copper. Nearby is an ancient stone pillar and a toll bell worth checking out. Today people still come here to give thanks. Like the information on this page? Check out my latest guide to Sukhothai Historical Park and make the most out of your trip! Entrance fees into Sukhothai Historical Park Entrance to Sukhothai Historical park = 100 baht Bicycle surcharge = 10 baht Mystery all section ticket = 350 baht (if you can find the right person) Food and drinks are a touch and go affair in the park. There are a few cafes. They aren’t too outrageously expensive. But if you are on a budget bringing one’s own water will half your cost. It’s 2 kilometers from the central zone ticket office to the northern section. The main road there is surfaced, flat and quite easy to use via a bicycle. The park is open from 6am-18.00. Keep in mind the bicycle shops closed between 17.30 and 18.00 too. I’ll write later about night time viewing of the temples but sufficed to say, it’s very dark and very isolated so don’t get caught out alone after dark. Planning on booking a hotel room in Sukhothai? Here are the best online rates guaranteed! I recommend you try my own hotel search for Sukhothai

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