The Garmentor

Hot Accessory: The Tie Bar

Mon, 09 Feb 2009 01:46:53 -0800

Typically, women have all the fun when it comes to accessories, but there's one thing we have that they don't: the tie bar. Also called a tie slide (or tie clip if it has a clasp), the tie bar is a functional accessory that can be used to add an extra touch of class to your outfit. Originally designed for the workplace, it can now be found keeping ties in check both in and out of the office. Silver so close to the heart might scare a vampire, but this season it's all the rage.

Paul Stuart Sterling Silver Diagonal $158.50

The tie bar is great, first, because it is so functional. If you've ever walked down a windy street and had your tie flapping over your shoulder, or leaned over a plate of food, only to find your tie soaked in a béarnaise, you understand a man's desire to tame his tie. The tie bar was invented for just that reason. Even when you're not chowing down or braving the wind, a tie bar will hold your tie in place so that you don't have to worry about laying it over your buttons every time it gets out of line. In short, the tie bar is a man's best friend.

Of course, with such a prominent position on your torso, it's important to find a tie bar that's stylish and nice to look at. Face it: everyone's going to see it. Before choosing one, we suggest you think about where you'll be using it most. If you want to wear it around the office, go for something simple and versatile, like the sterling silver slide by Tiffany. You'll be able to wear it with anything and it will absolutely never go out of style. How can it? It's a thin fold of shiny sterling silver, plus it's made by Tiffany. You're set for life.

If, on the other hand, you want a tie bar with a bit more pizazz, perhaps something to wear at night or on special occasions, go for a spiffier style like Burberry's check tie clip or the Lator Gator tie bar by Kenneth Cole New York. They're two of our favorites.

Every tie bar makes its own statement, so go with something that matches your personality. It's a great place to show off a little bit of who you are. The right tie bar can take an otherwise average outfit and make it extraordinary. It's a finishing touch, the cherry on top, the difference between a good outfit and a great one.

Tie bars can be very difficult to find. As always, however, we scoured the web for some of the best. If you'd like to check out even more, we suggest designer Paul Stuart, who has some great ones available on his website. There's even a propellor tie bar for the aeronauts. A variety of affordable selections can also be found at Amazon.com. Happy shopping!

Tiffany & Co. Plain Tie Bar in Sterling Silver $75

Burberry Stud Tie Clip in Gold $175

Burberry Check Tie Clip $125

Kenneth Cole Reaction Black Abyss Tie Bar $36

Tateossian Tateossian Fiber Optic Tie Clip in Black $100

Great Jewelry Co. Sterling Silver Tie Bar $46

Great Jewelry Co. Stainless Steel Black-plated Tie Clip $49.50

Kenneth Cole New York Lator Gator Tie Bar $46

The Casual Non-Denim Pant

Thu, 05 Feb 2009 00:39:49 -0800

These days, jeans are so popular that some men seem to have forgotten about all of the other casual pant options that are available to them. A well cut pair of navy trousers or cotton twill pants are a great, stylish alternative to denim. If your closet only has jeans and dress pants, your wardrobe is incomplete. That's why this week's must-have garment is the casual, non-denim pant.

Like jeans, a lot of these pants can be dressed up or dressed down, making them very versatile. For example, J.Crew's classic-fit pinstripe pant in navy looks great with a pair of sneakers and a cardigan. But, because of the clean lines and classy pinstripe, you can also wear them with a pair of brown loafers and a dress shirt for a more pulled together look. Of course, as you should know by know, we're big fans of the slim straight fit, and J.Crew's navy pinstripe pant is a shining example: slim through the hip and thigh, with a narrow leg. These pants should probably be on a must-have list of their own.

Another great alternative is the ever-present chino. Made of cotton twill, it's a classic, easy-going pant. Contrary to popular belief, chinos (or khakis, as they're often called, since they so often come in that color) don't have to look plain-Jane... er, -John. We're showing BDG's skinny chino in khaki, but it's also available in less expected colors like red and a cool, faded black. If you want something a bit trendier, go for one of those. You can wear them with a great pair of sneakers and a graphic tee for a young, irreverent, "I don't give a fuck" look. Of course, if you read The Garmentor, you do give a fuck, but no one needs to know that.

If, on the other hand, you're looking for a style that is mature and cosmopolitan, try the cropped, cuffed khakis by Phillip Lim. It takes a debonair man to show a little ankle, but if you can do it, the result is pure, world-class sophistication. Don't match these pants with any shoes that don't at least look expensive. The goal is to have a cohesive look, and classy pants deserve classy shoes.

This spring, make an effort to mix up your wardrobe with more than just denim and shorts. There's a lot of great options if you're willing to give them a try. Happy shopping!

BDG Skinny Chinos in Khaki $49

Gap Original Khaki in Grey Pinstripe $49.50

J.Crew Classic-fit Pinstripe in Navy $78

J.Crew Classic-fit Glen-plaid Pant $78

Obey Old Dog Dress Trouser $78

Dunderdon Bok Regular Fit in Black $88

HUGO Cotton Gabardine Pants $125

Theory Williston Pants in Dark Umber $265

Phillip Lim Cropped Pants with Cuffs $350

A Casual Look for Spring ‘09

Thu, 29 Jan 2009 01:57:15 -0800

So far, The Garmentor has shared with you guys a bunch of great trends and cool finds for spring. Now it's time to bring those pieces together and build a complete outfit. Using some of the incredible items already featured on our site, we're going to show you how to pull together an easy, casual outfit that's perfect for spring.

What? You don't have the occasional conversation with a flower? Must just be us.

The Outfit

So, here's the ensemble: a distressed, slim straight jean, colorful V-neck tee, shawl collar cardigan, and a simple navy plimsoll. Four pieces that almost anyone can wear, and chances are you already own at least one. The look is casual, but pulled together. Never underestimate the ability of a great-fitting pair of jeans to make you look like you made an effort.

The distressed jeans and bright tee make this a great look to celebrate the end of another long, cold winter. In general, come spring, stores begin to stock brighter colors and lighter denim washes. Also, we love the shawl collar cardigan because you can take it off if you get warm and put it back on when a breeze rolls in. A simple plimsoll finishes the look.

What's A Plimsoll?

Plimsoll is just a fancy word for a light, rubber-soled canvas shoe. The word "plimsoll" is of British origin, which might explain why you haven't heard it before. Think of it as a simple, low-profile sneaker. Find out more on Wikipedia.

The Cardigan

Earlier this month, Trend Tracking featured some great shawl collar cardigans that could be worn from winter right into spring. For this outfit, we chose one of our favorites from the bunch: All-Son's version in dark grey. (Editor's Note: The Urban Outfitters website describes this color as dark grey, but photographs and firsthand experience tell us it's more of a beige.) The cardigan also comes in black, but we prefer a softer color for a casual spring look. If you've already got black, no problem. Simply switch out the navy shoe for another color, perhaps white.

The Tee

A few days ago, we published our Spring 2009 Color Forecast and told you to look out for the primaries: red, yellow, and blue. The t-shirt in this outfit is a great place to incorporate one of those colors. We are particulary fond of the Gap's Perfect V-neck Tee—it's soft, affordable, and fits great—and this season they've got it in coral (a red-orange-pink color that's perfect for spring), yellow, and blue. Take your pick; any of them will work with this versatile outfit.

The Jean

We had to do it. For the jean, we went with Diesel's Paddop in 73J, a pant so beautiful we gave it its own article in Cool Finds. At $285, we realize that a slim percentage of you would even consider purchasing the Paddop. (If you're one of those that has considered it, what are you waiting for? Do ittt.)

Fortunately, this outfit doesn't need expensive Diesel denim to look great. Go for a pair of distressed jeans that you've already got in your closet. Or, alternatively, try one of the slim straight jeans that we featured in December. You know, those were filed under Must-Haves, so you should already own a pair. Distressed or dark, this outfit will look great.

The Shoe

And finally, the sneaker. We chose the plimsoll from The Generic Man's new Generic Surplus shoe line, which we featured earlier this month in Cool Finds. Its lightweight, canvas upper and simple lines make it the perfect shoe for spring. Also, navy is an extremely versatile color, and can be paired with just about any jean and tee color you can find. Just don't mix black and navy, unless you truly know what you're doing. They're too similar and you'll end up looking like you couldn't tell that they weren't the same color.

All-Son Shawl Collar Cardigan $68

Diesel Paddop in 73J $285

Generic Surplus Plimsoll Sneaker in Navy $58

Gap Perfect V-neck Tee in Coral, Lanai Yellow & Fresh Water $18 (2 or more, $11 each)

Levi's Capital E Matchstick in Dark Worn $178

Cheap Monday Autobahn in Unwash $65

Spring 2009 Color Forecast: Back to Basics with the Primaries

Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:58:31 -0800

With the first day of spring just a few weeks away (March 20th, to be precise), we figured it was time to publish our color forecast for this year's vernal fashion season. So, what do we expect to see a lot of this spring? Red, yellow, and blue. In short, the primaries.

Piet Mondrian, Composition (1921)

Color forecasts are nowhere near definitive. However, by studying the Spring Summer '09 runways and the clothes we're beginning to see stocked in stores, we can come up with a close approximation to the colors you should expect to see on mannequins and urban catwalks come this spring. Enter RYB.

Perhaps the presence of red, yellow, and blue in this season's looks is an allusion to modernist painter Piet Mondrian, who, by reducing his color palette to the primaries, sought to express a new utopian ideal of spiritual harmony and order. This would make sense, considering the dim, yet hopeful, status quo. The combination is also reminiscent of childhood, perhaps expressing a desire to return to simpler times when there was less to worry about and more time to relax. Either way, we're excited about these colors and their potential to bring some optimism to 2009.

On the Runway

We found the primary colors particularly hard at work in the Spring Summer '09 lines of three American fashion designers: Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Blue stripes, red solids, and a yellow bag.

Michael Kors

The primaries in full force. Red, yellow, and blue don't get any more pure than this.

Calvin Klein Collection

With suits in pinkish red, powder blue, and greenish-yellow, we think it's close enough.

Photos by Marcio Madeira

In the Stores

Don't expect to find cobalt blue blazers in a store near you. In the transition from runway to department store, certain looks get modified or cut altogether. The point is to take inspiration from these looks, particularly their bold strokes of primary colors. Look for statement pieces, like a bright red coat a la Marc Jacobs (we found a similar one by American Apparel).

Mondrian's compositions always combined the primary hues—red, yellow, and blue—with the primary values—black, white, and grey. Try to do the same this spring. Bright yellow, pure red, and cobalt blue are strong, eye-catching colors, so they need to be balanced with neutrals like black, grey, or even a dark jean. If you don't like to wear a lot of brights, try an accessory that acts as a punch of color, like a lemon yellow tie.

Above all, take this color forecast with a grain of salt. It shouldn't be the reason you pass up that green shirt you were eyeing. Instead, let our forecast guide you on your next shopping trip. It's always easier to find something when you know what you're looking for.

American Apparel Lightweight Taffeta Jacket in Valentine $52

All-Son Roll-up Sleeve Button Down in Yellow $44

BDG Breezy Shirt in Blue $44

Modern Amusement Striped V-neck Tee in Brick Wall $55

Michael Kors Polo in Sun and Black $175

Scotch & Soda Polo in Royal Blue $42 (Was $59)

BDG Skinny Chinos in Red $49

Analog Remer Skinny Jean in Yellow $68

American Apparel Corduroy Slim Slack in Blueberry $74

The Diesel Paddop: Denim to Die For

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:45:26 -0800

Diesel is one of our favorite designers of denim on the planet. They constantly update their fits and washes to maintain a stylish, fashion-forward product. This week, we've gone weak at the knees for Diesel's brand new Paddop 73J.

What the hell is "Paddop 73J," you ask? Well, Diesel denim works like this. The first part of the name is the fit. The second half, which usually consists of a number and letter, refers to the wash. So, Paddop is the fit and 73J is the wash. You follow? Good. Let's continue.

The Paddop is a slim fit, which we endorsed last month, and 73J is a distressed, rich blue wash featuring a handful of small tears and holes that give this jean the look of having been worn for a few years. Some people cringe at the thought of pre-torn holes, but we think a moderately distressed jean, particularly one as well done as Diesel's, is something to admire. Also, much of the disressing is done by hand, so no two pairs look alike.

At $285, this is probably the most expensive men's jean we've ever seen from Diesel. However, hear us out.

Diesel truly is the Mercedes Benz of denim. You're paying more because it's a hand-crafted, high-quality, no-detail-overlooked product. For example, Diesel's denim typically comes from Japanese or Italian mills, which produce the highest-quality denim in the world. And, as we mentioned, a great deal of their distressing is done by hand in their Italian factories.

If you want natural looking holes, you can either jump off a building or let Diesel's artists do it for you. Option one, you break some bones, option two, you pay a little extra.

Also, take a look at the close-up shots we've included below. They show off Diesel's incredible attention detail, such as the addition of a zippered coin pocket above the left front pocket. Even the zipper has been customized. Around back, you'll find small, black metal studs that subtly decorate the seam near a hidden, extra pocket. Like perforated leather seats and wood trim in a Benz, it's details like this that make Diesel's product stand above the rest.

Certain items, like a t-shirt, should never cost more than a certain amount of money. Christian Audigier, we're looking at you and your tacky $100 tees. When it comes to denim, however, we're not against a calculated splurge. Diesel's Paddop 73J becomes the focal point of your outfit, meaning you can throw on one of The Gap's $18 Perfect V-neck tees and a pair of Converse and you'll look like a million bucks. Smart shopping is about knowing where to spend your money, and the jeans on your legs are a great place to spend it all.

Available exclusively at SSENSE.

Diesel Paddop in 73J $285

The Hand-Me-Down Backpack

Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:30:16 -0800

"We live in times of limited resources but unlimited desire to consume them." So writes David Hieatt, co-founder of howies, the company behind a new product line called Hand-Me-Down.

"Going forward we will have to take more responsibility for our consumption," he says, and Hand-Me-Down is howie's attempt to manufacture responsibly. The line features two jackets and three bags, and all are guaranteed to last at least 10 years. The idea is simple: use high-quality, durable materials to ensure a long-lasting product that can be handed down from one generation to the next. It's an honorable concept that we couldn't ignore.

We're particularly fond of the Hand-Me-Down Backpack. Good karma aside, the bag is handsome and timeless; it could be from 50 years ago or 50 years in the future. The bag's classic appeal is partly derived from its canvas and leather construction, including the vintage, die-cut leather lash patches. The leather and heavy waxed canvas were also chosen by designer Chad Yonkman for their performance and durability.

The backpack gains strength in its aluminum, rust-proof zips and hardware. By using custom-designed hook buckles and a simple, flap opening, howies ensured the bag had very few moving parts, which are highly vulnerable to breakage. Multiple storage pockets and a padded laptop sleeve bring modern function to this classic design.

The Hand-Me-Down backpack comes in two equally handsome colors and can be shipped from the U.K. for approximately $35. For a bag made to last a lifetime, we think it's worth it.

howies Hand-Me-Down Backpack in Tan Earth £195 ≈ $285

howies Hand-Me-Down Backpack in Gull Grey £195 ≈ $285

The Shawl Collar Cardigan

Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:41:26 -0800

At The Garmentor, we love to window shop. It is, after all, part of our job. And no, we don't mean walking down the street and gazing at window displays to see what's new. We're talking about browser window shopping. We bounce from online store to online store looking for the latest and greatest in men's fashion. Recently, we noticed a great new trend: the shawl collar cardigan.

What is it? The look is a knit cardigan, often slightly longer in length than a typical cardigan. A shawl collar is simply a rounded, turned-down collar, similar to that on a blazer, but without the stiff structure and lapel notches.

We like this look because it is relaxed and easy, perfect for the transition from winter to spring when the sun begins to show his face but the weather is still on the brisk side. The shawl collar cardigan is also great because, come springtime, it functions as a stylish jacket. Throw it over a tee or thin button-down and go.

If you plan on being cold for a while yet, go for a heavier-duty cardigan like The Smooth Company's Fisher Cardigan. These typically look best buttoned-up. If, on the other hand, you're preparing for warmer weather, we recommend the lightweight cardigan by Shades of Greige. Its oversized fit and gauzy cotton/linen blend make it the perfect, and very stylish, shawl collar cardigan for spring. With shorts and a crew-neck tee, you can lounge by the lake, or pair it with dark jeans and a V-neck for a look that is at once laid-back and put together.

Looking for something more casual? Try one of the plaid shawl cardigans by Malchick & Devotchka and Denim Is Everything. We particularly like it in red with a grey tee, as styled by Urban Outfitters. As always, happy shopping!

All-Son Shawl Collar Cardigan in Dark Grey $68

Brown Sound Carmel Cardigan in Olive Juice $90

Shades of Greige Cardigan in Purple $98

Koto Marled Striped Cardigan $68

Malchick & Devotchka Plaid Shawl Cardigan in Navy $58 $40

Denim Is Everything Shawl Collar Cardigan in Red $128 $80

Edun Stormy Shawlneck Sweater $215

J.Crew Cashmere Shaker Ribbed Cardigan $498 $398

The Smooth Company Fisher Cardigan in Black $140

The Solid V-neck Sweater

Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:27:38 -0800

What’s extremely versatile, can be worn all year long, and will never go out of style? The solid V-neck sweater, of course! That’s why we’ve made it this week’s must-have garment.

As you know, this portion of the website is dedicated to items without which your wardrobe is incomplete. The solid V-neck sweater is one of those items, and if you don’t believe us, allow us this chance to explain why:

It is extremely versatile. Wear it with a pair of faded jeans for a laid-back, around-the-house look. With dark jeans and nice shoes, you’ve got an outfit you can wear to dinner. Want to wear it to work? Pull it over a collared shirt, throw on some khakis, and you’re ready to go. The V-neck sweater can be casual or dressy, whereas a crew-neck sweater can be more difficult to dress up.

It is great for all seasons. In the colder months, it will keep you warm all day, but it’s also great to take off the chill on a brisk spring or summer night. Go for a light material like cashmere or merino wool so that you will be able to layer your sweater with a variety of other garments.

You will wear it for years. The V-neck sweater is a classic and, as such, it does not change much from year to year. We recommend a solid neutral like black, grey, or camel. Why a solid and not a pattern? Because certain patterns go in and out of style. Why a neutral and not something more colorful? Again, colors go in and out of style, but neutrals like black and grey are always going to look great.

A Note on Color

If you’d like a bright, seasonal, or trendy color, we recommend spending less since you’ll also probably get fewer wears out of the sweater. An easy way to save money is by choosing a cotton, merino, or blend over cashmere, which is softer, but significantly more expensive.

We love J.Crew’s cotton-cashmere V-neck sweater for its combination of affordability and quality. As their website says, “you shouldn’t own just one.” We like it in heather camel and heather oatmeal, but if you’re more interested in a bright color, try deep pine, which will look great this spring. For any risk takers, royal violet is sure to make a bold statement. Just make sure you let it do all the talking by pairing it with dark jeans or black pants.

If you’ve got the money to spend, go for J.Crew’s V-neck in 100% cashmere. Cashmere wool is strong, light, extremely soft, and because it’s dry clean only, you’ll be able to wear it over and over again without fading or stretching. Any of the color options will look great, but we particularly like hazelnut and snow.

J.Crew gives you the option to monogram your sweater and we suggest you say, “Thanks, but no thanks.” Personalize your sheets, sure, but not your sweater.

As always, we wanted to give you guys more than a couple options, so we found some other great V-necks from around the Internets. And don’t forget: this garment isn’t optional. It’s a must-have. So grab that Christmas money and get shopping.

J.Crew Cotton-cashmere in Heather Camel $59.50

J.Crew Cashmere Sweater in Snow $188

J.Crew Merino Sweater in Navy $59.50

Penguin Hector Lambswool Sweater in Grey $74 $49.99

Urban Outfitters Standard V-neck Sweater in Burgundy $48 $39.99

Modern Amusement Refined Sweater in Navy Heather $119

The Generic Man Modernizes Four Classic American Sneakers

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 15:59:00 -0800

The Generic Man’s new collection of shoes, Generic Surplus, brings clean, simple, refined lines to classic American sneakers. The result? Four shoes that can be worn every day with almost anything.

We are in love with all four of these shoes and you should be too. They are sleek, understated, and lack any garish corporate branding. If you’ve already begun spring shopping, we recommend the Boat Shoe or the Plimsoll. Both will look great with a pair of shorts; just make sure you lose the socks (or go for a low-profile pair that won’t show).

The Generic Surplus collection is available exclusively at Urban Outfitters.

Generic Surplus Military Hi-Top in white. Also available in black.

$70 Understated high-top from Generic Surplus, UO’s exclusive collaboration with Los Angeles label, and proponent of new adultism, Generic Man. They feature clean canvas and suede uppers, and a padded collar.

Generic Surplus Boat Shoe in grey. Also available in navy and white.

$58 Sleek, modernized boat shoe from California’s own Generic Surplus, with cotton canvas uppers, detailing at the toe, and tonal cotton laces and grommets.

Generic Surplus Plimsoll in red. Also available in navy and white.

$58 Simple, comfy, and versatile low profile cotton plimsoll. A plimsoll (or plimsole) is a light, rubber-soled canvas shoe, worn especially for sports. We recommend them with a pair of shorts. If you’re gonna wear socks with these, go for no-show socks.

Generic Surplus Oxford in white. Also available in grey.

$70 Understated, pointed low-top from Generic Surplus. Clean suede uppers with pinked and perforated wingtip detailing. Vulcanized rubber midsole with reinforced toe.

Happy Fingers

Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:23:38 -0800

Touchscreens are all the rage these days, what with the iPhone, iPod touch, and now the BlackBerry Storm taking over men's back pockets everywhere. However, now that we're nearing the dead of winter, when gloves are essential for maintaining a steady flow of blood through your fingers, how are you supposed to keep your hands warm and still make use of your touchscreen handheld?

We've done some research, and while it's been suggested that we try cutting the fingertips off of our gloves' pointer fingers and thumbs, here, at The Garmentor, we prefer a solution that doesn't require looking like your gloves fell victim to a swarm of moths.

Luckily, we came across Freehands, founded by New York City-based designer Josh Rubin. Freehands makes gloves with flip back caps that expose your thumbs and index fingers, allowing you to answer phone calls, send text messages, play games, and do all of the other great things that your touchscreen gadget is capable of. Small magnets conveniently embedded in the fabric of the gloves keep the finger caps out of the way while your fingers work their magic.

Of course, exposing your thumbs and index fingers comes in handy for more than just playing with your touchscreen smart phone. It also makes it easy to snap photos with today’s point-and-shoot cameras whose small buttons are impossible to toggle with a gloved hand.

Freehands gloves come in three styles—fleece, stretch, and leather—and a variety of sizes. If, like Freehands designer Rubin, you've ever used your nose to answer your phone, these are the gloves for you. At prices ranging from $20 to $40, they make a great holiday gift. For all you last minute shoppers, Freehands guarantees Christmas day delivery if you place an order through their website by 3 p.m. EST on December 23rd.

Freehands Fleece $20

Freehands Stretch $30

Freehands Leather $40