The Farmer Fred® Rant

Peat Moss 2 parts
Perlite 1 part
Vermiculite 1 part

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Another organic mix (from the book, "Rodale Organic Gardening Solutions"):

shredded peat moss 1 bushel
perlite or vermiculite 1 bushel
ground limestone 1/2 cup
bloodmeal 1 cup
colloidal phosphate 1 cup
greensand 1 cup

(1 bushel = 1.24 cubic feet)
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From: Oregon St. University's E-Organic Program

Seedling mixes for starting transplants

Seed mix (Biernbaum, 2001)

2 parts screened compost
4 parts sphagnum peat
1 part perlite
1 part vermiculite
Lime as needed to adjust pH to 6

Seed mix - standard soilless (Biernbaum, 2001)

50–75% sphagnum peat
25–50% vermiculite
5 lbs of ground or superfine dolomitic lime per cubic yard of mix
Blood meal, rock phosphate, and greensand at 5 to 10 lbs per cubic yard

Organic seedling mix (Biernbaum, 2001)

10 gallon of 2 year old leaf mold, sifted
10 gallons of sifted compost
5–10 gallons of sphagnum peat
5 gallons of perlite
5 gallons of coarse river sand
3 cups blood meal
6 cups bone meal

Soilless potting mix (used by Windsor Organic Research on Transition project, E. Zaborski)

1 part compost
1 part vermiculite
1 part peat moss

Screened with ¼ inch screen to mix together. Per 1 gallon mix add:

0.6 oz blood meal (17.01 grams)
0.4 oz clay phosphate (11.34 grams)
0.4 oz greensand (11.34 grams)

Soil-based seedling mix (Hamilton, 1993)

2 parts loam (stacked turf to kill any weed seed and disease)
2 parts sphagnum peat
2 parts coarse grit (sand)
30 g or 1 oz lime for each 2 gallon bucket (9 liters)
60 g or 1 oz blood meal for each 2 gallon bucket (9 liters)

Organic potting mix (credited to Eliot Coleman in Kuepper, 2004).

1 part sphagnum peat
1 part peat humus (short fiber)
1 part compost
1 part sharp sand (builder's)

to every 80 quarts of this add:

1 cup greensand
1 cup colloidal phosphate
1½–2 cups crabmeal or blood meal
½ cup lime

Soil block mix (Kuepper, 2004; adapted from Coleman, 1995)

3 buckets (standard 10-qt. bucket) brown peat
½ cup lime (mix well)
2 buckets coarse sand or perlite
3 cups base fertilizer (blood meal, colloidal phosphate, and greensand mixed together in equal parts)
1 bucket soil
2 buckets compost

Seedling mix for soil blocks or seedling flats (from John Greenier of Stoughton, WI in Kuepper, 2004)

2 3-gal. buckets Sphagnum peat moss
¼ cup lime
1½ cups fertility mix (below)
1½ buckets vermiculite
1½ buckets compost

Fertility mix:

2 cups colloidal (rock) phosphate
2 cups greensand
2 cups blood meal
½ cup bone meal
¼ cup kelp meal

Directions for mixing:

Add peat to cement mixer or mixing barrel.
Spread the lime and fertility mix over the peat.
Mix these ingredients thoroughly.
Add the compost and vermiculite and mix well again.
When done, examine the distribution of vermiculite to ensure that it has been mixed in evenly.

Note that all bulk ingredients should be screened through 1/4 inch hardware cloth. Well matured, manure-based compost should be used (avoid poultry manure and wood-chip bedding).

Mixes for larger plants or containers

These mixes require the addition of mined nutrients from natural sources.

Cornell Organic Substitute for Classic Mix (as modified by Biernbaum, 2001)

½ cu yd. sphagnum peat
½ cu yd vermiculite
5 lbs ground limestone
2–4 lbs bone meal
5 lbs blood meal

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Check out all the information about potting mixes for Certified Organic Production at the NCAT Sustainable Agriculture Project Website

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Cornell University Modified Peat-Lite Planting Mix:(especially good for seedlings)
for large jobs (1 part=one full wheelbarrow, about 4.5 cu. ft.)
Peat Moss 2 parts
Perlite 1 part
Vermiculite 1 part
Dolomitic Lime (raises pH) 4 cups
Superphosphate (0-20-0) 5 cups
Osmocote or other slow release fertilizer (19-6-12) 8 cups

for small jobs (1 part= a 32 oz. coffee can)
Peat Moss 2 parts
Perlite 1 part
Vermiculite 1 part
Dolomitic Lime (raises pH) 1 tsp.
Superphosphate (0-20-0) 2 tsp.
Osmocote or other slow release fertilizer (19-6-12) 1 Tbs.

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Note: when using peat moss, pre-moisten the peat moss to aid moisture retention. In a hose-end sprayer, put one tablespoon liquid dish detergent in the jar. Set sprayer to mix one tablespoon per gallon of water. Thoroughly water the peat moss with this solution before mixing with other ingredients.

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Purchasing a commercial potting soil or planting mix?

Some tips from the California Master Gardener Handbook:

• Select mixes high in bark, forest materials, or spaghnum peat with vermiculite or perlite.

• Thoroughly leach any potting soil before placing seed or plant material in the mix. Leaching will reduce soluble salts to acceptable levels in most mixes.

•Fertilize with a soluble fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions within two weeks after plants are growing in the new potting/planting mix or potting soil. This will replace leached nutrients and those taken up by the plants.

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The difference between a potting/planting mix and potting soil?

There are no hard and fast rules. Ask 100 experts, you may get 100 different answers. Generally speaking, if the bag says "soil", it probably contains soil and sand, along with ingredients such as perlite, vermiculite, peat moss or bark.

When you buy a garden product with the word "soil" - especially at a low price - you are increasing the chances of buying someone else's problems: a package that contains weed seeds, nematodes, fungal diseases, heavy clay, sludge.

Your best bet, as stated above: choose a product high in forest materials (especially for woody plants), or peat/coir with vermiculite or perlite (for herbaceous or non-woody plants).

Fall and Winter Tomatoes...From Your Greenhouse

2020-10-19T21:11:00.000-07:00

506 Bush Tomatoes on New Year's Day

If you really want to demonstrate to your friends what a great investment your greenhouse is, nothing beats serving them home grown tomatoes...on New Year's Day.

Here's What You'll Need to Grow Greenhouse Tomatoes for the Winter and Spring:

A greenhouse or an indoor area with lots of light and heat. On line, check out the selection at Washington State-based Charley's Greenhouse. Also, check out the Sturdi-Built greenhouses of Portland, Oregon. Here in Northern California, there's Greenhouse Megastore in West Sacramento.

The Right Tomato. For the typical hobby greenhouse (8x5, 8x10, 8x12), cool season "determinate" tomatoes are best. These tend to be fairly compact plants (under 4 feet tall) that do not put on lots of growth after they set fruit. Determinate tomatoes usually ripen at the same time; so, choose several tomatoes that will ripen at different times, going from seed to fruit in 50-70 days. To minimize disease problems, choose tomatoes that have "built-in" disease resistance. These will have the letters "V" (verticillium wilt-resistant), "F" (fusarium wilt) "N" (nematodes), "T" (tobacco mosaic virus) and "A" (alternaria fungus) after the variety name of the tomato.

A "Warm Greenhouse" or indoor room. This is one that maintains a nighttime temperature range of 55-70 degrees, preferably above 60 degrees for tomatoes. Daytime temperatures should range from 75-85 degrees. A heater, in conjunction with a thermostatically controlled vent fan, can easily provide that temperature range here in the Valley and foothills.

Sunlight. Tomatoes need full sun, at least six hours of direct sun a day. Try to position your greenhouse so that it can take best advantage of the low angle of the sun during the cold months, making sure the building isn't shaded by any evergreen trees or other structures.

Artificial light. Because of the lower intensity of the sun and the persistence of valley fog and low clouds during the winter, you will need a lighting system to supplement any natural light. Although there are many artificial lighting systems available, fluorescent lights are the most economical. Use four, 40-watt, 48-inch long fluorescent tubes side by side, keeping them 8-12 inches above the plants. Although standard "shop lights" are OK, investing in Gro-Lux wide spectrum fluorescent tubes will give your tomatoes more of the light spectrum that they can use. For the latest in grow light technology, including LED's, check this page at Charley's Greenhouse.

Water. Although the cooler temperatures of the fall and winter will cut down on the amount of water that tomatoes need, a drip system connected to a timer will insure that the plants get the moisture they need. Four to eight gallons of water per week per plant should be plenty.

Soil. Planting directly into the ground of the greenhouse is OK, as long as the soil drains readily, has been amended with organic matter and isn't compacted. Building raised beds into the floor of your greenhouse works best. Make the sides of the raised bed 8-16 inches high, and at least 18 inches wide. The bed can be framed by a number of things, including untreated wood, blocks, bricks, or stacked old tires. Growing tomatoes indoors in plastic 5-gallon or 15 gallon pots works well, too. There are a lot of good container soil mixes on the market for tomatoes and vegetables, including Gardner & Bloome, Recipe 420, Black Gold, Dr. Earth and Fox Farms.

Hydroponic Systems. The technology for these has changed radically since I last used one, decades ago. Check with your local hydroponics store or nursery for more information about the latest and greatest.

Fertilizer. Because plants tend to slow down their growth in the colder months, cut your dosage of your favorite tomato fertilizer by half. For example, if the directions for a water-soluble fertilizer say to add 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, pour that same tablespoon into 2 gallons of water during the winter feeding periods. A once-a-month application should be plenty.

A Pollinator. In nature, bees and wind do most of the tomato pollination in the home garden. In the greenhouse, you can accomplish the same task by either gently shaking or holding an electric toothbrush (or similar device) next to the plant; twirling a small brush inside a tomato flower will transfer the pollen.

A Fan. A gentle breeze blowing across the plants for several hours a day aids pollination and helps strengthen the plants' main stems. Air movement also reduces the threat of fungal diseases.

Some greenhouse tomato variety suggestions for the colder months:

Bush Early Girl VFFNT Hybrid. A bushy plant that produces 6-7 oz. fruit. Determinate, 54 days.

Bush Beefsteak. The fruit averages 8 oz. each on a compact plant. Determinate, 62 days.

Clear Pink Early. 2-3 foot tall plant produces pink tomatoes, about 3-6 oz. Determinate, 58 days.

Grushovka. A pink, egg-shaped, 3-inch long tomato from Siberia. Plants are under three feet tall. Determinate, 65 days.

Manitoba. The fruit is over 6 oz. in size, very productive and early. Determinate, 60 days.

Northern Exposure. A compact plant that produces 8 oz. "Big Boy" style tomatoes. Determinate, 67 days.

Oregon Spring V. Developed at Oregon State University for short season gardens. Medium sized fruit that is nearly seedless. Determinate, 58 days.

Pilgrim VFFA Hybrid. 8 oz. fruit on a compact plant that boasts excellent yields and good flavor. Determinate, 65 days.

Polar Baby. Developed in Alaska. 2-inch salad tomatoes. Determinate, 60 days.

Prairie Fire. 3-5 oz. tomatoes on short plants. Tangy flavor. Determinate, 55 days.

Red Robin. The plants get only 12 inches tall, producing cherry-sized tomatoes. Good choice for hanging baskets. Determinate, 63 days.

Siberia. A favorite of Canadian greenhouses, this bushy plant reportedly will set fruit at temperatures as low as 38 degrees. Fruit is under 2 inches in diameter. Determinate, 55 days.

Siletz. 10-12 oz. tomato developed in Oregon. Determinate, 52 days.

Sub Arctic Maxi. For very cold climates. 2 oz. fruit on a small plant. Determinate, 62 days.

Sweet Tangerine. Orange-red colored fruit. Determinate, 68 days.

Tumbler. Cherry-sized tomatoes in seven weeks. Good choice for hanging baskets. Determinate, 49 days.

506 Bush. Plants only get 18 inches tall, are drought tolerant and produce medium sized tomatoes. Determinate, 62 days.

Online sources for these tomato seeds include Tomato Grower's Supply Company and Totally Tomatoes.

Pest Management. In our experience the biggest problem was whitefly infestations. Yellow sticky traps can let you know you have a problem as well as control small outbreaks. Insecticidal soap may be necessary for control of the whitefly problem starts growing. In case of a severe outbreak on a tomato plant, the easiest and most effective course of action? Get rid of the plant.

However...although there are a lot of benefits to growing tomatoes in the fall and winter, there is a lot of time and expense associated with it, especially the heating costs. And, don't expect the sweet, succulent taste of a summer-grown outdoor tomato. But the taste IS better than a store-bought tomato. Just more expensive.

Pretty But Deadly: Pokeweed Returns for Fall

2020-09-18T17:51:00.001-07:00

"Fall Color" isn't just limited to the changing hues of the leaves of deciduous trees this time of year. There are lots of colorful shrubs right now, producing flowers and berries, many of which are outstanding garden plants: cotoneaster, toyon, bottlebrush, the strawberry tree, Oregon grape, pyracantha and beautyberry, for example. But there are some pretty poisonous plants putting on a show right now in Northern California. Plants, that if you get a little too curious, could knock you on your ass.

For example, Laura writes in, with pictures:

This gorgeous invasive plant invading her Citrus Heights backyard? Pokeweed.

After posting these pictures at the Get Growing with Farmer Fred Facebook Page, valley and foothill gardeners responded with words of warning:

"It is poisonous and it is becoming an invasive weed in California and so is posted as a noxious weed. I had a friend who had them in their yard and their son wrongfully thought they were elderberries so they had picked a bunch to make jam. Thankfully she didn't get time to make that jam and they got moldy."

"Definitely pokeweed...would not recommend putting in the compost pile...they also have a deep tap root and are hard to get rid of...Placer County posted a warning on this plant as being both poisonous and invasive."

Cindy Fake of the Placer County Cooperative Extension office has written extensively about the dangers of pokeweed (Phytolacca americana, also known as pokeberry, inkberry and American pokeweed):

"If you have seen this plant, beware! Pokeweed, a poisonous invasive species, has become more and more common...pokeweed is a rapidly growing perennial shrub, up to 10 feet tall, with large leaves and red stems. While some homeowners may be tempted to keep pokeweed in their gardens because of the pretty white flowers and glossy dark purple berries, all parts of the plant are toxic to humans, pets, and other mammals. Pokeweed berries provide food for birds, which are not affected by the toxins. However, the birds then spread the seeds, helping the plant to invade orchards, fields and yards, and competing with crops and ornamentals. Once established, pokeweed can be very difficult to eradicate. It grows a very large taproot, and can have multiple stalks growing from a single root. Do not put plants or berries in green waste disposal bins or in compost. Unfortunately, the taproot usually remains and often resprouts the following year."

The UC Integrated Pest Management Pest Note on Pokeweed, released in September 2020, has removal tips:

"Hand pulling is effective on small plants. Once plants are established and develop an extensive root system, hand removal is difficult. Digging out established plants with a shovel is effective, but often difficult in summer when soils are dry. Established plants may have large roots that must be removed to prevent regrowth. Cultivation can be effective on new seedlings in raised beds or other areas where tilling can be used. Cultivation on large established plants is not effective. When removing mature plants, ripe berries should be bagged and discarded so the seeds don’t reinfest the soil." Consult that Pest Note on eradicating pokeweed with herbicides. Read and follow all label directions.

More pokeweed facts here and here.

Those of you from the South may recall "poke salad" as more than a song by Tony Joe White. As Cindy Fake points out: "in some parts of the US, young pokeweed leaves are eaten after extensive processing to remove toxins, but even after processing, some toxins remain, so consumption is not recommended."

Agreeing with that is the California Poison Control System, which reports pokeweed (Inkberry) as a Class 3 toxin: "Ingestion of these plants is expected to cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and other symptoms that may cause illness but is not life-threatening."

WHAT TO DO FOR A PLANT POISONING
• Do NOT induce vomiting.
• Remove any plant parts from the mouth or hands.
• Wash around the mouth and hands and give a few sips of water.
• Check for any irritation of the skin, mouth or tongue.
• Call the California Poison Control System at 1-800-222-1222

Pepper Seeds Slow to Germinate? Some MORE Tips

2020-02-15T16:05:00.001-08:00

Home gardeners who grow their tomatoes from seed usually get fairly quick results after sowing the seeds indoors. Given the right germinating conditions - a soilless planting mix, good drainage, plenty of light, plenty of warmth - tomato seeds can pop up in 8-10 days.

Pepper seeds are a different story. Why is it some peppers can take weeks to germinate?

"The important thing in getting your (pepper) seeds to germinate is to keep them warm – the soil temperature should be in the 80's", says Renee Shepherd of Renee's Garden, a popular seed catalog based in Felton, California. "Germination is very much related to even moisture and warm temperatures. You should see germination within 2 to 3 weeks if it's warm enough. I strongly suggest using bottom heat to achieve the warmth the seeds need – most good nurseries carry good little electric seed starting mats which will keep your seeds at the right temperature to sprout. A local mail order source is Peaceful Valley Farm Supply."

For those who want to comparison shop, another source for heating mats for your pepper seeds: Amazon.

Another trick that some gardeners employ is soaking the pepper seed for a few hours before sowing to soften the seed coat. The value of that is open to debate.

"I have never heard of soaking pepper seed overnight and have never done it in 20 years of running a trial garden," says Shepherd.

On the other hand, Professor Debbie Flower, formerly of the American River College Horticulture Department, sees the benefits of some "immersion therapy" for pepper seeds. "We soaked our pepper seeds in hydrogen peroxide for 10 minutes," explains Flower. "That's not enough time to scarify (soften or break the seedcoat), or even get them soaked, but enough to kill exterior diseases."

Many sweet pepper varieties will show their initial leaves about two weeks after planting the seeds. But some varieties of peppers take longer to pop up than others. "The hot pepper varieties take longer to germinate, some to three weeks," says Flower.

But if you are experimenting with the really hot pepper varieties, such as the Bhut Jolokia (Ghost Pepper), it could take up to four months, says the Trade Winds Fruit website:

"Chinense species (e.g. Habanero's) generally take longer to germinate than most common peppers. Keep soil warm to very warm (75-90F) for better germination. Do not use acidic soil. Some Chinense peppers, in particular Bhut Jolokia, Naga Morich and related peppers are very slow to germinate, averaging 1-4 months germination time."

By the way, if you are growing the Bhut Jolokia...you're playing with fire. The Ghost Pepper is rated at 850,000 Scoville units of heat. For comparison, the habanero rates 200,000; the Jalapeno is 5,000; the Anaheim equals 1,000. And sweet bell peppers? 0.

This is as hot as I can stand. The Inferno: 4,000 Scoville Heat Units

Another factor that can determine the rate of germination of pepper seeds: the pH of your seed starting mix. One of the most common ingredients in most seed starting mixes is peat moss, which is highly acidic, with a pH around 4.0. Pepper heads, including the Horticulture students at American River College, have found quicker germination when Coir (coconut fiber) is substituted for peat moss. Coir has a closer-to-neutral pH: around 6.5. The tests at American River College bear this out after trying Coir in their pepper seed soil mix. "We've had the best germination of peppers ever!" says Flower.

And don't be in a rush to set them out in their permanent garden home. "Pepper seedlings need to be grown out until they have at least several sets of true leaves, and it is at least 55° at night before you plant them out," explains Renee Shepherd. "And they will need a little time to get used to being outdoors, as well."
Here in the Sacramento area, that would be around mid-May. Be patient.

Now, for the MORE tips portion: Since first posted eight years ago, this blog report has received a lot of attention. The beauty of that...lots of pepper growers have chimed in about their preferred methods for growing peppers.
One method that was seconded by many: germinate your pepper seeds in between two moist paper towels in a room that is between 70 and 80 degrees. For many, that room might be the kitchen or bathroom. When the "tails" appear after about 6 or 7 days (the tails, by the way, are the emerging roots), gently transplant them into a moist, seed starting mix, preferably one that uses the more neutral coir instead of the lower pH peat moss. Or, make your own. My preferred home mix consists of equal parts coir, perlite and fine compost.
The improvements I would make to that germination suggestion? Use coffee filters instead of paper towels. That way, the emerging root doesn't get tangled, as happens when using fibrous paper towels. Pulling out germinated seeds from paper towels may be hazardous to their health.
Also, to insure a warm environment, here's something you could do in just about any indoor room: place the moist coffee filters, containing the pepper seeds, inside a glass baking pan. Place that on top of a germination mat. Cover the baking pan with plastic wrap to keep it warmer. I tried this at home, pepper seeds germinated with six days.

Fall, Winter Storms vs. Your Trees

2019-12-07T11:06:00.003-08:00

40-50 mph winds + several inches of rain over a few hours = the recipe for a typical winter storm in much of California.

TV news crews rush to the most photogenic damage during these rare occasions: downed trees, usually leaning against a house or crushing a car.

Without the correct care of the trees on your property, winter storms and trees will not get along. Most susceptible are the trees that keep their leaves year round, such as eucalyptus and camphor, along with the conifer family: pines, firs, redwoods and cedars. All that mass of greenery acts as a sail in a heavy wind, bending trees at ridiculous angles. Another cause of winter tree failure is crown rot, which despite its name, refers to the deterioration of the root system near the base of the tree. Combine that with a couple of inches of rain onto already saturated soils, and you have tree roots heaving towards the surface, leading to these pictures popping up on the TV news:

If this is the view from your window, the day after a major rain and wind storm is not necessarily the best day for the gardener to tackle the hazardous task of cleaning up the remnants of trees, shrubs and other plants that took a beating. If wind and rain is still in the forecast, the prevalence of slippery conditions and the chance of more falling debris should limit your cleaning chores to dragging broken branches away from the scene of the crime. It is not a good day to be climbing ladders or scrambling into trees while balancing a chain saw. Leave that to the professionals.

Arborists offer this good piece of advice for those surveying the fallen aftermath of a major storm: Limb failure is largely a product of poor tree maintenance over time. Take care of your trees, or they may take care of themselves in ways you won't appreciate.

According to the University of California publication, "Inspect Your Landscape Trees for Hazards", a nice day in autumn (or winter, spring or summer, for that matter) is the time to take an inventory of any possible future tree damage before you, your house or your car becomes the next victim of a falling tree or branch.

Leaning Trees: Are your trees not as upright as the result of recent heavy winds? Can you see newly upheaved roots or soil around those trees? Then, immediate action is required: call in a professional, certified, bonded and insured arborist to do an onsite inspection and offer a solution (find one near you at treesaregood.org). Newly leaning trees are an imminent hazard.

If you have a tree that has leaned for a number of years, that tree can still be a hazard during wet, windy weather. Taking periodic photographs can help you determine if a greater lean is developing.

Multiple Trunked Trees: This co-dominant condition can result in breakage of major tree parts during storms. Usually, these trunks are weakly attached. Inspect the point where the two trunks meet; if you see splitting beginning, call in an arborist.

Weakly Attached Branches: Trees with many branches arising from the same point on the trunk are prone to breaking during wind storms. Prune out any split branches. Thin out multiple branches.

Hanging or Broken Branches: If you see storm damaged branches hanging from the tree, remove them as soon as possible. This includes removing any completely broken branches that may be resting elsewhere in the tree's canopy.

Cracks in Trunks and Branches: Measure the depth of any cracks with a ruler. If those cracks are more than three inches deep, call in an arborist to determine the best course of action.

Dead Branches/Trees: Branches or entire trees that have completely died are very likely to come tumbling down in a storm. Dead branches are most noticeable in the summer when the tree is in full leaf.

Cavities and Decay: Large, open pockets where branches meet the trunk, or at the base of the trunk, can mean big trouble. The presence of mushrooms on the bark or on exposed roots may indicate wood decay. Call in an arborist.

The Arbor Day Foundation website has this animated guide to proper pruning techniques.

Also: Tips for Hiring an Arborist.

And, an illustrated guide for pruning large branches (which are branches that are greater than the thickness of your thumb): the three-cut method.

October Garden Tasks

2019-09-28T10:34:00.002-07:00

October is an outstanding time of the year for gardens and gardeners. The soil is still warm, but air temperatures are much more pleasant. New plants love the warm soil; gardeners love the 70-degree days. Here are a few garden tasks that are perfect for this month in the Central Valley, East Bay and low foothills of Northern and Central California.

Chinese Pistache

Gingko biloba

Early October:
• This is a great time for planting new trees and shrubs, especially ones with outstanding fall foliage for our area. Good specimens include the Chinese pistache, Washington hawthorn, Japanese maple and Amur maple for typical lot sizes; the "October Glory" red maple, ginkgo, red oak and scarlet oak for larger lots.
• Reduce the frequency of lawn irrigations to once a week. Turn off the sprinkler timer when it rains.
• Feed roses one more time to keep the blooms coming through the fall.
• Don't let your summer vegetable garden go bare. Plant a winter cover crop such as vetch, fava beans or clover to help replenish the soil with nitrogen.
• Vegetables to plant from seed now include radish, spinach, and peas.
•Dethatch, aerate and overseed bermuda grass lawns with rye grass to keep it green all winter.
•Cool season lawns, such as the popular fescue blends, are putting on a spurt of growth now. Mow often so that you are never removing more than a third of the total height of the grass blade.
•Nurseries have a good supply of winter blooming annuals in supply this month; also, select onion sets now for your vegetable garden.
•This is a good time to plant ground covers. This will give their root systems a chance to get established for their burst of spring growth.
• Dealing with the possibility of drought: Looking to upgrade your sprinkler control system? Choose one that will turn your sprinklers off when it rains. Also, newer systems will adjust the run times based on the season as well as soil moisture content.

Tomato Hornworm Cocoon

Lawn Aerator, Dethatcher

Mid-October:
• Tomato hornworms are going into hibernation in the soil beneath your tomato plants. Dig down about four inches and discard their cocoons, which resemble two inch-long, reddish footballs.
• Mid-October is your last, best chance to dethatch, aerate and overseed a sad looking lawn for the year.
• Despite the cooler temperatures, your lawn and garden still need about an inch of water a week. Unless the rains come, keep your automatic sprinklers operating.
• After you've cleared out the dying summer vegetables, improve the soil for next year's garden by checking the acidity/alkalinity with a pH test kit. They’re available at just about every nursery.
• Putting on a garden show currently: “Autumn Joy” sedum, with its reddish-pink, umbrella-shaped flowers. This herbaceous perennial gets about 18 inches tall and wide.

“Autumn Joy” sedum

Sasanqua Camellia

Late October:
• Scatter and plant tulip and daffodil bulbs outdoors for a more natural look.
• Add some indoor color for the upcoming holiday seasons by planting bulbs now in containers.
• Now in bloom: the sasanqua camellia. This variety can take more sun than the japonica camellia, which blooms in late winter.
• Protect rhododendron and azalea roots during the winter by adding two or three inches of mulch beneath those plants.
• Available now at nurseries: colorful winter blooming annuals such as violas, calendulas, stock, Iceland poppies and snapdragons.
• Temperatures dipping down below freezing can occur here in early November. Prepare for that possibility by moving frost-sensitive potted plants next to the house or indoors.
• Row covers, hot caps, and water-filled containers surrounding young vegetable seedlings offer these plants a warmer nighttime environment.
• Prepare for the rainy season by knocking down watering basins around trees.
• Wait until we get two or three rainstorms in a row before scattering wildflower seeds. In the meantime, remove the weeds in that area.

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

2019-05-07T11:50:00.000-07:00

This year’s Great Tomato Growing Experiment: is this small area (4’x16’), adjacent to a north-facing fence, truly the sunniest spot on the property?

After monitoring my entire full sun-deprived Folsom yard for nearly three years, this one spot, near the garage, may be the one area that gets more than eight hours of direct sun a day, perfect for growing tomatoes.

The dilemma (well, two dilemmas, actually): because it is a concrete surface, the tomatoes must be grown in containers; and, how do you avoid water stains on the concrete when the barrels drain?

Solution: use a big container (in this case, half barrels with five 7/8” drain holes drilled through the bottom) and place that container on top of a catch basin with several 3/4” holes drilled on the side rim on the back side, allowing the water to drain from the catch basin to the 12” wide gravel area along the fence line.

The prototype catch basin was at the suggestion of radio guest Lori Ann Asmus, who decorates Christmas trees professionally (you can see her work during the holiday season at various lobbies in public buildings, including the downtown Sacramento’s Citizen Hotel).

The catch basins were, in reality, meant for placing beneath Christmas trees to catch any water overflowing the tree holders. They are available wherever fine Christmas tree accessories are sold (such as Emigh Hardware, in December).

The barrel/catch basin combo have shims under the front side, allowing a gentle slope towards the fence, coaxing the water to go out the back side of the holes in the catch basin and into the gravel. So far, so good.

Regarding the container dilemma: when planting thirsty summer vegetables in full sun, try to use the largest containers, preferably made out of something that doesn’t allow heat build-up, such as plastic (it’s not unusual for the soil in an unprotected plastic pot in full sun to reach temperatures in excess of 140 degrees on a day in the upper 90’s). A wood barrel works perfect for that purpose. Plus, the greater volume of soil in a barrel (as opposed to a 15-gallon plastic pot) also helps the plant avoid stress from dried-out soil if you miss a watering during 90 and 100-degree days. And, more soil means more room for root development.

Because a container plant may need water every day in the summer, I’ve given these two tomato plants (a Champion 2 full size tomato and a very popular grape tomato I have never tried before, Juliet) their own watering system: a battery operated timer on a nearby faucet with a Y-adapter. Connected to the timer is a short, half-inch drip line run, going along the backside of the barrels.

Connected to the half inch line: quarter inch tubing snaked through a small hole on the lower backside of the barrel, and topped off with an adjustable drip bubbler/sprinkler in the middle, which sends out 6 or 8 even streams of water in a circle. Unfamiliar with drip irrigation systems? Entire kits are available, such as this.

Pro tip: run the quarter inch line in the barrel BEFORE filling it with a good quality potting soil. (By the way, “Pro Tip” = “lesson learned the hard way”).

The tomato cages are made from 4’x5’ sheets of concrete reinforcement wire, 6” mesh (for easy reaching of the tomatoes). Bend the sheets in a circle and fasten with plastic zip ties. Or, use your barbed wire tool (what? everyone doesn’t have a barbed wire tool?) to cut off the vertical 12-gauge wire ends on one side, and then bend the free horizontal wires around the opposite side.

Watering containerized plants is tricky, and must be increased or decreased more frequently, depending on the weather. Having a nearby faucet/timer/drip system in place helps ease those adjustments.

Fertilization can also be tricky. Because of the leaching nature and frequent watering that an easy-draining potting mix needs during the summer, fertilizers must be applied more frequently. Note that “frequently” does not mean “more fertilizer”. If, for example, the directions on your slow-release vegetable fertilizer package advises fertilizing with a certain dosage once a month, modify it to meet the needs of your container plant: cut the dosage in half, and apply every other week.
Don’t forget that topping that containerized plant with a few inches of a bark mulch can help maintain soil moisture on a hot day and also keep the soil temperature moderate.

2019 Vegetable Planting Calendar

2019-01-12T18:03:00.000-08:00

Farmer Fred’s 2019 Vegetable Planting Calendar for California's Central Valley, East Bay and Low Foothills

Click on the name of the vegetable for growing information.

S: Plant from Seed

S/P: Seed or Plants directly in the garden
∞: Start Seed in Pots in Protected Area

P: Set Out Plants Only

Download this document here.

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

S/P

S/P

∞

S/P

∞

Cabbage

∞

S/P

Carrots

Cauliflower

∞

S/P

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

Eggplant

∞

S/P

Garlic cloves

Cloves

Cloves

Kale

S/P

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

S/P

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Peppers

∞

Potatoes, sweet (slips)

Potatoes, white (slips)

S/P

S/P

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

S/P

S/P

∞

S/P

S: Plant from Seed

S/P: Seed or Plants directly in the garden
∞: Start Seed in Pots in Protected Area

P: Set Out Plants Only

Pruning Tool Primer

2018-12-15T15:14:00.004-08:00

This time of year, stroll down the tool aisle of any garden center and you'll find a vast array of cutting instruments, all designed with the backyard gardener in mind. Blade heads of short-handled pruners and long-handled loppers usually come in two different styles: bypass and anvil.

Felco #2 Bypass Pruners

Bypass loppers or pruners have a stainless steel curved blade that uses a scissors action to pass next to, not on top of, the lower surface, sometimes called the hook, designed to catch and hold the branch while the cutting blade comes down.

Corona Bypass Pruners

Bypass pruners offer a cleaner cut, as the blade slices all the way through the stem.

The cutting blade of anvil-style pruners comes down onto the center of a soft metal or hard plastic lower surface, called the anvil or table. Anvil pruners tend to crush the soft tissue of the stem, stopping the flow of nutrients, prolonging the healing time for the cut surface.

Despite the bypass pruner's benefits, garden centers still offer a nearly equal number of anvil-style pruners and loppers, a never-ending source of confusion for the gardener hunting for cutting tools.

So, we asked area garden experts their pruning preference: bypass or anvil?

The late Sacramento County Farm Advisor, Chuck Ingels, preferred bypass pruners. "I never use anvil pruners because you often can't cut close enough to the branch collar without leaving somewhat of a stub," said Ingels. "When they begin to wear, they often don't cut all the way through. Also, they crush the bark, which bypass pruners can do also, but you can turn the shears so the blade is closer to the collar and make a clean cut."

"I don't use and usually do not recommend anvil pruners," says Luanne Leineke, formerly the Community Shade Coordinator for the Sacramento Tree Foundation. "I tend to see too many wounded branches, particularly when the bark is soft. I suggest using bypass pruners for up to three quarters of an inch-thick branches, loppers for up to one inch thickness and a hand saw for anything larger."

Pete Strasser, former plant pathologist with Sacramento's Capital Nursery, has only one use for anvil pruners. "Anvils are for deadheading annuals, and that's about it."

Loren Oki, Landscape Horticulture Specialist with UC Cooperative Extension in Davis, also has limited use for anvils: "I was taught that bypass pruners were used on live material, whereas the anvil types were better for dead wood. The bypass type cuts cleaner through the softer material without causing much damage."

Steve Zien, owner of the Citrus Heights-based organic landscape consulting business, Living Resources, leaves no doubt to his preference: "I would never use anvil pruners! Never ever, unless something needed to be pruned right then and there, and it was the only tool I had beside my teeth."

Bottom line: Bypass pruners are much more versatile than anvil pruners. Every gardener should own a pair of bypass pruners.
But a word of warning: don't force cut a branch with bypass pruners that were not meant to cut a larger branch. Using too much force to work the blade through the wood could damage the entire unit. If those bypass pruners are advertised as cutting through one-inch branches, don't exceed that limit.
Move up to a larger cutting tool for those bigger branches, such as bypass loppers, a small branch saw (my favorite), a bow saw, or when you finally realize that "Life is too short to put up with a problem plant", a good quality chain saw.

Perhaps have a pair of small anvil pruners for the cut flower garden. And larger anvil ratchet loppers for removing dead wood.

Finally, whatever you purchase, buy quality. Look for pruning tools that have replaceable parts (blades, springs,etc) that can easily be disassembled for cleaning, sharpening, oiling, and maintenance.

Plant a Beautiful, Edible Fall Stunner: Persimmon Trees

2018-12-05T10:34:00.000-08:00

California's Central Valley is ablaze with the other orange fruit tree currently: the brightly colored persimmon. And it's not just the fruit.

Persimmon tree leaves can turn a brilliant hue of red before the first big wind and rain storm of late November washes them off their branches.

What's left behind is the unpicked fruit, dangling like holiday ornaments during December. That's a feast for our eyes...as well as a banquet for hungry birds.

Persimmons have adapted well to our California climate: warm, dry summers and mild winters. At least 500 different Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) varieties were brought to California during a major planting spree from 1870 to 1920. In 1877 alone, more than 5,000 plants in 19 varieties were imported from Japan. As a result, 99% of the commercial persimmon crop is grown here in California.

Persimmons are quite nutritious, as well, loaded with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Fiber, and antioxidants such as Beta-Carotene and Lycopene.

If you live in the Central Valley, Southern California, Bay Area or low foothills ... you can grow that! Bare root persimmon trees will be available at local nurseries during late December, January and February.

360-degree mini-sprinkler from Dripworks

Give them full sun and a regular irrigation in the dry months for best production. Persimmon trees can tolerate partial shade.

Persimmons are usually classified as either astringent or non-astringent. For fresh eating straight from the tree, choose a non-astringent, self-pollinating variety such as Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Yemon or Izu. Astrigent varieties, which need to soften thoroughly before they sweeten, include Hachiya, Chocolate or Tamopan. Those varieties are self-fruitful, as well.

A partial harvest from one, 7-foot tall Yemon persimmon tree

Persimmon growing advice from the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG):

Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.

Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).

Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.

Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.

Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.

Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the "brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.

Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature. Nonastringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.

Storage: Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Nonastringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, datelike consistency.

Yemon Persimmon

And we are in total agreement with the CRFG: persimmons make an excellent dried fruit, a great sweet snack or for use in cookies or breads!

According to our favorite book on dehydration techniques, "How to Dry Foods" by Deanna DeLong:

• Wash and remove the stem cap. Cut fruit in half and then into 3/8-1/2" slices.
• Place on a dehydrator sheet in single layers.
• Dry at 140 degrees for 1-2 hours, then reduce heat to 135 degrees for an additional 7 hours (approximate).
• When done, they should be tender and pliable, but not sticky.

At that point, you can either vacuum seal them in plastic bags for long term preservation, or store the dried persimmons in a canning jar for quick use.

Backyard gardeners who do a lot of drying are passionate about their choice of dehydrators. Some prefer the rectangular Excalibur dehydrator ; others (including our household) enjoy the circular Nesco American Harvest Dehydrator . Our largest complaint about the Excalibur: the fan blows from the back to the front, which can rearrange any lightweight herb leaves that you might be trying to dry. The Nesco American Harvest dehydrator's fan moves warm air from the bottom up, offering less disturbance to the drying crops. Still, the Excalibur is a good choice for most fruit and vegetable drying.

Knock, Knock. Who's There? ANTS!

2018-10-19T17:08:00.002-07:00

When it gets hot, the ants start marching indoors. When it rains, in come the ants. Too cold? The ants know where its nice and cozy: your kitchen, bathroom and pet food bowls. Outdoors, the pet food bowls and garbage cans are also ant attractants. Argentine ants, those busy little black ants, are in march formation year round.

In years past, we would reach for the spray can and douse those little scavengers. But not anymore.

Many of those spray pesticides are only effective with direct contact on the ants. And the stronger sprays, with residual action to thwart the next wave of ants, is potentially harmful to you, your kids, your pets.

So, here is what we are doing now: following the recommendations of the UC Davis Integrated Pest Management Project for Ant Control.

That includes:

• Determine what the ants are attracted to and remove the food source
• Vacuum trails, wipe them with soapy water, or spray with window cleaner
• Locate entry points and caulk openings or plug with petroleum jelly
• Put out bait stations with liquid ant bait or apply gel bait at entry points
• Baits take time to work so continue to clean up trails
• Indoor sprays are not usually necessary.

• Avoid products packaged as granules that contain the active ingredients cyfluthrin or permethrin. Although these products may be mistaken for baits, they are actually contact insecticides that rapidly kill foragers and do not control the colony.

Before wiping up (or wiping out) the little critters, follow their trail. Note their entry point into the house. Seal it up. We have found ants entering the house in a variety of small avenues: beneath moulding, cracks in the window frame, behind electrical outlet plates...and one of the ants' favorite entries: that large holes beneath the sink where the pipes enter the house.

According to the UC IPM page on ant control, "If ants can be thoroughly washed away and excluded from an area, an insecticide is probably not necessary. Vacuuming up ant trails or sponging or mopping them with soapy water may be as effective as an insecticide spray in temporarily removing foraging ants in a building because it removes the ant’s scent trail, especially if thorough cleaning is done at the entry points. Some soap products such as window cleaners can kill ants on contact but leave no residual toxicity. Certain plant-based oils are also applied for this purpose, but their odor can be offensive."

Oh, and another lesson we learned the hard way: if you put those ant baits indoors, you will attract more ants inside. Look for ants crawling along the outside of the house, and place the baits there, being sure to follow all label directions.

What about those ant sprays that are intended to be used as a perimeter spray along the outside of the house? Stick with the bait traps, says the UC IPM page: "Spraying around the foundation will not provide long-term control because it kills only foraging ants without killing the colony. Perimeter treatments may appear to knock down the population, but ants will quickly build back up and invade again. To try to achieve long-term control, some pest control companies offer monthly perimeter spray programs. Perimeter treatments pose more risk of environmental upset than baits in bait stations and are less effective than a bait-based IPM program."

Ant baits are not ant traps, even though some ants may be stuck there. The whole point of ant baits: they get the stuff on them, take it back to their nest, where they share it with others...and then croak. Be patient. It may take a week or so for the baits to work on the ant nest.

More info about ant baits from the UC IPM project: "Baits are insecticides mixed with materials that attract worker ants looking for food. They are a key tool for managing ants and the only type of insecticide recommended in most situations. Ants are attracted to the bait and recruit other workers to it. Workers carry small portions of the bait back to the nest where it is transferred mouth-to-mouth to other workers, larvae, and queens and other reproductive forms to kill the entire colony. Bait products must be slow-acting so that the foraging ants have time to make their way back to the nest and feed other members of the colony before they are killed. When properly used, baits are more effective and safer than sprays."

• Sweet sugar baits such as boric acid (use low concentrations with less than 1% of the active ingredient) are highly attractive to Argentine ants throughout the year.

• Protein baits are attractive to ants in spring when colonies are producing new offspring. (Baits like fipronil or hydramethylnon are effective.)
• Place baits outdoors; avoid indoor baiting as that may attract more ants into the home.

• When using liquid ant baits outdoors, there are reusable ant bait stations available that hold the liquid, such as the Ants No More Ant Bait Station.

• Place baits near nests, trails, or along foundations, preferably in the shade.
• Baits should be placed in protected areas away from children and pets.
• Offer small portions of each bait to see which one is preferred before employing an extensive baiting program.
• Follow up regularly to make sure bait is working and place fresh bait as necessary.
How baits work:
• Worker ants are attracted to the bait and take it back to the nest where the entire colony, including queens, may be killed.
• Bait must be slow-acting so workers won't be killed before they get back to the nest.
• Results may not be evident for several weeks.
• Bait stations or ant stakes are easiest to use and safest for the environment.

Ant baits contain various active ingredients and attractants. We have tried a variety of different ones, to appease the finickiest of ant diners. Besides the Gourmet liquid ant bait, another one of my favorites is powdered boric acid in a squeeze bottle, another less toxic alternative.

For those that prefer a homemade concoction for ant control, Horticulture consultant Debbie Flower of Sacramento recommends this formula:

1 part boric acid (I use 1 teaspoon) - available at most garden centers

9 or 10 parts sugar (so 9 or 10 teaspoons sugar)

Add enough water to make a slurry.

Put slurry in a small container, tuna can size.

Add 2 or 3 cotton balls and rotate them until they are completely covered in the slurry.

Put a lid on the container. Lid must have holes big enough for ants to crawl through. (Lid is not absolutely necessary but it keeps water and dirt out)

Bury in soil so lid is at soil level.

Leave it alone. You won't see dead ants. They visit, take the bait back to the colony, and kill the entire colony.

100-Plus Rose Varieties for California

2018-10-12T08:55:00.001-07:00

Rose Display at Amador Flower Farm

Here in California, where we can garden year round throughout much of the state, January and early February is the best time to plant bare root roses, now available at nurseries.

Your success with roses depends on several factors, especially location: full sun, as well as decent soil with good drainage. Roses require regular fertilization and irrigation.

Tropicana (with cosmos)

In our old garden, the top performing roses include the white-flowered floribunda/shrub rose, Iceberg; Summer Sunshine, a yellow hybrid tea; Tropicana, an orange-red hybrid tea; Olympiad (medium red hybrid tea), Rio Samba (yellow blend hybrid tea), Jeanne Lajoie (climbing miniature, med. pink) and Mlle Cecile Brunner (light pink polyantha).

For a more thorough compilation, noted Master Rosarian Baldo Villegas has studied thousands of roses throughout California, and has put together this master list.

Although by no means a complete list, here are over 100 roses that do well in the local inland valleys, especially the southern Sacramento and northern San Joaquin valleys. Many of these roses will thrive in foothill regions and parts of the Bay Area as well. For a more complete guide, Baldo has a page that will link you to your area's rose society.

For gardeners in Sacramento and the surrounding area looking for fewer choices, here's a link to a previous post: The 10 Best Roses for Sacramento.

Thanks to rosarian Baldo Villegas for compiling the master list and pictures. Visit his website for more about roses, including rose pictures, planting tips, as well as pests and diseases of the rose garden. From his list of roses, here are choices for...

102 GREAT ROSES TO GROW

MOST EVERYWHERE IN CALIFORNIA

(Rose variety / color / year of introduction / ARS Score, if any, on a scale of 1-10)

Hybrid Teas; Grandifloras (20)

Andrea Stelzer, light pink, 1992
Black Magic, dark red, 2000
Elizabeth Taylor, deep pink, 1985, 8.8
Fragrant Cloud, orange-red, 1967, 8.1

Gemini, pink blend, 2000, 8.1
Gold Medal, medium yellow, 1982, 8.5
Honor, white, 1980, 7.6
Ingrid Bergman, dark red, 1984, 7.2
Marilyn Monroe, apricot blend, 2000, n/a
Moonstone, white, 1998, 8.2
New Zealand, light pink, 1989, 7.6
Olympiad, medium red, 1982, 8.9
Saint Patrick, yellow blend, 1996, 8.0
Secret, pink blend, 1992, 7.7
Signature, deep pink, 1996, 7.7
Stainless Steel, mauve, 1991, 7.5
Touch of Class, orange pink, 1984, 9.2
Tournament of Roses, medium pink, 1988, 8.0
Veterans' Honor, medium red, 1999, 8.0

Floribunda Roses (15)

Betty Boop

Betty Boop, Betty Boop spray, red blend, 1999, 8.0
Bill Warriner, orange-pink, 1998, 8.0
Blueberry Hill, mauve, 1999, 8.0
Dicky, orange-pink, 1984, 8.7
Fabulous!, white, 2000
Glad Tidings, dark red, 1988, 8.1
Lady of the Dawn, light pink, 1984, 8.2
Lavaglut, dark red, 1978, 8.8
Margaret Merril, white, 1977, 8.4
Pasadena Star, white, 2002
Playboy, red blend, 1976, 8.2
Priscilla Burton, red blend 1978, 8.6
Sexy Rexy, medium pink, 1984, 8.9
Showbiz, medium red, 1983, 8.5
Sunsprite, deep yellow, 1977, 8.7

Polyantha Roses (10)

China Doll, medium pink 1942, 8.2
La Marne, pink blend, 1915, 8.8
Lovely Fairy, deep pink, 1990
Lullaby, white, 1953, 8.7
Margo Koster, orange blend, 1931, 7.5
Marie Pavie, white, 1888, 8.8
Mrs. R. M. Finch, medium pink, 1923, 8.9
Orange Morsdag, orange blend, 1956, 9.4
The Fairy, light pink, 1932, 8.7
Verdun, medium red, 1918, 8.7

Climbing Roses (12)
Altissimo, LCl, medium red, 1966, 8.5
America, LCl, orange-pink, 1976, 8.4
Candy Cane, Cl Min, pink blend, 1958, 8.2
Dublin Bay, LCl, medium red, 1975, 8.5
Fourth of July, LCl, red blend (striped), 1999, 8.2
Handel, LCl, red blend, 1965, 8.1
Jeanne Lajoie, Cl Min, medium pink, 1975, 9.3
New Dawn, LCl, light pink, 1930, 8.5
Pearly Gates, LCl, medium pink, 1999, 7.8
Pierre de Ronsard (Eden Climber), LCl, pink blend, 1987, 8.2
Rainbow's End, Cl Min, yellow blend, 1999, 7.9
Soaring Spirits, LCl, pink blend, 2005

Shrub Roses (13)

Abraham Darby, orange-pink, 1990, 7.5
Cocktail, red blend, single, 1961, 8.3
Gartendirektor Otto Linne, deep pink, 1934, 8.8
Golden Celebration, deep yellow, 1993, 7.8
Prospero, dark red, 1983, 8.6
Raven, dark red, 1992, 7.5
Robusta, medium red, single, 1979, 9.5
Rockin' Robin, red blend, 1997, 7.5
Sally Holmes, white, single, 1976, 8.9
Sharon's Delight, white, single, 1996, 7.7
Sunny June, deep yellow, single, 1952, 7.7
Tamora, apricot blend, 1992, n/a

Old Garden Roses (12)
Baronne Prevost, Hybrid Perpetual, medium pink, 1842, 8.7
Crested Moss, Moss, medium pink, 1827, 8.6
Green Rose, Hybrid China, green, before 1854, 7.4
Henri Martin, Moss, medium red, 1862, 8.7
Marchesa Boccella, Hybrid Perpetual, medium pink, 1842, 8.9
Mons. Tillier, Tea, orange-pink, 1891, 8.1
Mutabilis, Hybrid China, yellow blend, 8.7
Paul Neyron, Hybrid Perpetual, medium pink, 1859, 8.1
Rose de Rescht, Portland, deep pink, 8.9
Sombreuil, Cl Tea, white, 1850, 8.8
Souvenir de la Malmaison, B, light pink, 1843, 8.7
Yolande d'Aragon, Portland, mauve, 1843, 8.3

Miniatures and Minifloras (20)

Baby Ballerina, pink blend, 1997, 8.1
Baby Love, deep yellow, single, 1992
Black Jade, deep red, 1985, 8.2
Butter Cream, Miniflora, light yellow, 2002
Child's Play, pink blend, 1991, 8.0
Dr. John Dickman, mave, 2004
Elfinglo, mauve, 1977, 7.5
Giggles, medium pink, 1987, 9.1
Glowing Amber, red blend, 1996, 8.0
Gourmet Popcorn, white, 1986, 8.7
Hot Tamale, yellow blend, 1993, 8.2
Irresistible, white, 1989, 9.3
Jean Kenneally, apricot blend, 1984, 9.4
Loving Touch, apricot blend, 1983, 8.4
Luis Desamero, light yellow, 1989, 7.7
Marriotta, red blend, 1998, 8.2
Minnie Pearl, pink blend, 1982, 9.4
Peggy "T", red bend, single, 1988, 8.5
Pierrine, orange-pink, 1988, 9.2
Rainbow's End, yellow blend, 1984, 8.9
Ruby Pendant, mauve, 1979, 8.6
Soroptimist International, pink blend, 1995
Will-o-the-Wisp, Miniflora, pink blend, 1998

And, my personal favorites:

Lyda Rose

Oklahoma

Brandy

Pink Peace

Iceberg

Summer Sunshine

Rio Samba

Voodoo

Four Plants to Create a Pollinator/Beneficial Garden Airport

2018-03-29T09:42:00.000-07:00

Proven Winners recently held their 2018 plant introductions at Matsuda's wholesale nursery in Sacramento, showcasing their newest annuals, perennials and shrubs. Sort of like a car show, but only for plant nerds…well, ok, professional landscapers...and plant nerds like myself.

Based in Michigan, Proven Winners chooses plants based on flowering, growth habit, disease resistance and overall garden performance…but only after they have successfully grown at trial gardens throughout the country, including here in California.

Michael Galli of Metamorphosis Landscaping in the Bay Area was at that show, and he told me what it takes to be a successful landscaper. “How do your plant choices make the client feel as the garden matures?” Galli asks. “If it makes a person happy at the end of the day, we’ve done our job.”

These days, gardeners are getting more smiles out of having a pollinator garden within easy view of a patio or window. Plants that attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds are at the top of the list.

Galli says it only takes a combination of three or four different, long-blooming plant varieties to make a pollinator-loving gardener happy: salvia, lantana, butterfly bush (buddleia) and verbena.

“I have an 86 year-old client; she’s been with me for 20 years,” says Galli. “We took out her lawn and put in a pollinator garden. She called me recently and said it brings her such joy to sit on her patio and drink coffee, and watch all the pollinators in action.”

Galli’s favorite Proven Winners varieties that attract the birds, bees and butterflies, yet are drought tolerant and don’t take up too much space include:

• The lantana variety “Luscious”. Flower colors come in a wide array, including shades of fuchsia, orange and yellow, blooming from planting until a hard frost. This lantana gets about 18-30 inches tall with a spread of about 20-30 inches.

• Lo & Behold buddleia. “This low growing butterfly bush variety is very showy and reliable,” says Galli. “Its smaller size (18-30 inches) makes it a great border plant, with flowers from summer through early fall. It attracts so many butterflies, it looks like an airport in front of our house.” Flower colors include blue and purple.

• Playin’ the Blues salvia. No California pollinator garden would be complete without an unthirsty, hummingbird-loving salvia variety. “Playin’ the Blues” attracts bees and butterflies as well, with blue-purple flowers that reach for the sky on a 24-48 inch plant. This salvia variety doesn’t produce seed, so it has a very long bloom season, possibly throughout the year if there’s a mild winter.

• “Royal Chambray” verbena. This low-growing (6-12 inches), long blooming (April to October) verbena variety needs little pruning or deadheading. It has a mounding habit to attract butterflies to its purple flowers. The plant spreads about 24 inches.

A couple of tips to attract these garden good guys to your pollinator garden:

• Make it look like a neon sign to attract the attention of hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Mass each variety together in a sizeable area, about four feet by four feet, or more.

• Everybody needs water. Install a water feature in your pollinator garden. It could be as fancy as a recirculating fountain, or as simple as a pan with water. Put that water feature in an area where predators (cats) can easily be spotted by hummingbirds.

Tips for the Beginning Vegetable Gardener

2018-03-23T18:30:00.004-07:00

If you're new to backyard (or front yard) gardening and want to start growing vegetables, here are some tips:

• Location, location, location: Give the garden a sunny spot. Pick a garden location that gets at least six hours a day of full sun; more is better. Good drainage is key. That's why raised beds are so popular (that, and the soil in raised beds warms up sooner in the spring). Make sure a source of water is nearby.

• Can you see the garden?
By late summer, I hear about a lot of ignored gardens among first time vegetable growers. Initially, they’re into it: planting, irrigating, fertilizing, weeding, and harvesting. However, by the time late August rolls around, their interest has waned, and the garden becomes a jungle of unpicked, overripe veggies and thriving weeds. One of the reasons I hear the most regarding this neglect: “I forgot to check the garden.” One tip that works for us: situate the vegetable garden so it’s visible from the kitchen window. If that’s not possible, put the garden where it can be seen from a high-traffic window, such as the dining room, family room, or a glass patio door.

• Know your soil. Do a pH test (which measures the relative alkalinity or acidity of the soil), or a full soil test. One of the best bargains for a complete soil test is the University of Massachusetts. They will analyze your soil for under $20 (at this writing). They also include a brief interpretation of what all those measurements mean to you. Or, purchase an inexpensive pH and macronutrient test kit, one that will tell you your soil's acidity/alkalinity, along with its needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

• Amending the soil with a good quality compost is a great idea, if your soil has never been amended. Mix in a cubic yard of compost for every 300 square feet of garden. That is a rule of thumb that I follow. After the first growing year, no rototilling is necessary. Just add a few inches of compost to the top of the soil; let the winter rains work the compost in.

• Fertilize the soil. I prefer to use low-dosage organic fertilizers, such as a mix of fish emulsion and sea kelp. There are plenty of great all-in-one organic fertilizers on the market labeled for use in vegetable gardens. Be sure to follow the label directions. If using a non-organic granular fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10- formulation), put a tablespoon in the bottom of the planting hole, cover with a couple inches of soil, and water in thoroughly. Don't let the sensitive roots of the tomatoes and peppers come in direct contact with the fertilizer. If you'll be using a water soluble, non-organic fertilizer on an every-other-week or monthly basis, use half the recommended amount for this first feeding.

• Top the soil with a thin layer of worm castings; put two to four inches of a coarse mulch on top of that. Worm castings improve the overall tilth of the soil as well as the microbial activity. A mulch of bark or chipped/shredded tree trimmings helps preserve soil moisture and warmth, controls weeds, and slowly feeds the soil as it breaks down. Instead of asking Santa for a rototiller, ask for a chipper/shredder. Your soil will thank you!

Oregon Spring V

Good sources of information:

The Sunset Western Garden Book

The Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles

Not in the West? The Sunset National Garden Book is a good reference...if you can find it.

If you are down South, the New Southern Living Garden Book is excellent.

The UC Davis Vegetable Research and Information Center is a good website with more garden starting info.

For California gardeners, the Farmer Fred interactive Vegetable Planting Calendar is a good guideline for when to plant. Also, clicking on the individual vegetables brings up information on how to grow it.

That's the basics! What you plant is up to you and your family's appetites.

Read on for more detailed gardening information for the first timer:

Peppers spaced 2 feet apart. They WILL fill the bed! Trust me on that.

For tomatoes and peppers:

• Plant tomatoes deeply. Pinch off the lower leaves of the plant and bury the tomato deeply, leaving only the top four sets of leaves above ground. New roots will form along this underground, stripped section. If it's a very tall plant, dig a trench, lay the plant on its side in the trench, and bend the top section up (carefully) to stand above the soil level; fill in the trench.

Tomatoes spaced three feet apart. They also WILL FILL THE BED.

• Give tomatoes room. Full-size tomatoes grow on vines that can reach five feet high or more. Plant them three to four feet apart. Prepare a staking system now while they're still manageable.

• Space peppers about two feet apart. According to local horticulture professor Debbie Flower, peppers can be planted deeply, just like tomatoes.
• Water. Don't let the soil dry out while the roots are getting established. During the warmth of summer, water tomatoes and peppers regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist. One common problem with tomatoes, blossom end rot (the bottom of the tomato turns brown and mushy), can be traced in part to irregular watering habits. Deep, infrequent waterings (once or twice a week) with drip irrigation or soaker hoses work great. An added benefit: drip systems and soaker hoses can be hooked up to a battery operated timer, watering these summertime treats while you're vacationing. Because raised bed plantings and containerized plantings will dry out quicker, they will need more frequent irrigations.

Use a moisture meter to determine when the soil is beginning to dry out at the root zone to help you develop a watering schedule. Remember, that schedule will change as the weather fluctuates. Prices of moisture meters vary considerably. The one pictured on the left has worked for me for over 10 years. The green one on the right, although inexpensive, has surprised me with its durability over the years, and fairly accurate and consistent moisture readings. Also, it measures pH and light (of questionable accuracy). Still, it might last you longer than a year. Maybe.

When deciding where to plant your vegetable garden, choose the best available location by keeping the following factors in mind:

When is the soil ready to plant? You may have little choice concerning the soil type available to you, but you can use a simple test to find out whether your soil is in good condition for planting. Squeeze a handful of soil to test for moisture content. If the squeezed soil forms a clump, the soil is too wet to work. If you work soil that contains this much moisture, it might form into hard, cement-like clumps, which can cause problems for the remainder of the year. If the soil crumbles easily when it is squeezed, it is in an ideal condition to work. However, if that handful of soil is bone dry, water the area thoroughly a day or two before working or planting the soil.

Broccoli in the Winter Garden

The Year-Round Garden. In California, there are 3 to 4 seasons, depending on your location, in which vegetables can be grown. Yet, many gardeners grow only summer crops. By planting a spring crop, a summer crop, and a fall crop, a gardener can get 3 crops from the same space.
Level ground is best for growing vegetables. It is easier to prepare, plant, and irrigate than sloping ground. If you must plant on sloping ground, run rows across the slope, not up and down, to keep the soil from washing away during irrigation.

Preparing a Garden Plan
It is best to plan on paper before planting your garden. A well-planned garden can provide fresh or preserved vegetables for use all year.

Plant perennial crops, such as rhubarb and asparagus, to one side of the garden so that the plants are not disturbed by preparations for future crops. Plant tall crops, such as corn and pole beans, on the north side of the garden so that they will not shade low-growing crops.

Trellising and staking. Do not grow horizontally what you can grow vertically. Twining crops, such as tomato, squash, cucumber, and pole beans, use a great deal of space when allowed to grow along the ground. Trellises, stakes, or other supports minimize the ground space used and increase garden productivity. Support materials can consist of wood, extra stakes, twine, or a nearby fence.

For the beginning vegetable gardener, choose more hybrid vegetables than heirlooms. Hybrid vegetables are bred to have more disease and pest resistance, as well as larger yields. Heirloom varieties have more unique shapes and flavors, but can be problematic for the first time gardener. Sure, buy some heirlooms for the flavor; but for your first garden, plant mostly hybrids. After that, you may prefer the flavor of the heirlooms. I still plant a mix of both. Just starting out? In most cases, choose plants over seeds, it's a lot easier. Exceptions would be sweet corn, squash and melons. These are big seeds that germinate readily; but wait until nighttime temperatures are steadily over 50 degrees before planting these seeds in the garden.

Succession planting consists of sowing seeds of a given crop at 1- to 2-week intervals to produce a continuous supply of vegetables. Corn, beans, lettuce, turnips, and beets are well suited to this practice.

Intercropping involves planting early-maturing crops between the rows of late-maturing crops to increase production in a small area. For example, beans, radishes, green onions, spinach, or leaf lettuce may be planted between rows of tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, or corn. The quicker-maturing crops will be harvested before the others become very large.

What to Plant
Plant enough of each vegetable crop to meet your family's needs for fresh, stored, and preserved supplies. When choosing vegetable varieties or hybrids, consider such factors as disease resistance, maturity date, compactness of plant, and the size, shape, and color of the vegetable desired. Refer to the individual vegetable links on the Farmer Fred Interactive Vegetable Planting Calendar for variety recommendations. For more information about some of my favorite tomato varieties, click here.

• Conquer ADD in the garden.
We all have a bit of attention deficit disorder when we go into the yard. Intending to do one task, we get sidetracked by something else. Before you know it, it’s dinner time and the vegetable plot hasn’t been checked for aphids and tomato worms (your original task in the morning). Limit the “distraction time” by keeping a set of garden tools, trash can and a source of water nearby the vegetable plot. Position the garden nearby a water faucet and hose. Smaller hand tools can be kept in a converted outdoor mail box adjacent to the garden; for larger tools, perhaps a small shed (or large dog house) nearby. Do anything it takes to reduce the number of trips to the garage to get what you need for the garden. Because you know there’s something in the garage that will also demand your attention!

Tools
You only need a few, good quality tools for a small home garden:
Trowel. One of the handiest garden gadgets, it is useful for transplanting and for loosening soil around plants.

Shovel. Use a round-edged shovel for digging.

Spade or spading fork. Use to turn the ground, to turn under organic matter, and to break up large clumps of soil. In my heavy clay soil, I find the spading fork indispensable.

Rake. Use to smooth out the soil after spading and after preparing the seedbed. You can also use it for clearing up rubbish and removing small weeds.

Hoe. Use a long-handled hoe to remove tough weeds and to cover seeds after planting. When turned sideways, you can also use a hoe to dig a V-shaped row for planting.

Following these simple guidelines will keep your tools in good condition:

Clean tools after each use. A putty knife, jet nozzle on a hose or a wire brush is good for scraping off dirt. If tools get rusty, soak them in kerosene for a few hours, then use a wire brush or fine sand to scrub off the rust. Oil them with a light lubricant after cleaning.

Keep cutting tools sharp. The basic sharpening tool for hoes, pruners and shovels is an 8" mill file.

Keep tools in a dry place to prevent rust.

Growing your own food is easy, fun for the entire family and good for you! The healthiest food you can eat is the food you grow yourself.

What Should You Do For Your Plants AFTER a Freeze?

2018-02-19T09:05:00.000-08:00

Sometimes a gardener feels as if they're in a heavyweight boxing match: Your Tender Plants vs. Mr. Freeze. Your citrus, succulents and perennials that may thrive in milder climates might be able to take a frosty punch or two here in the Sacramento/San Joaquin Valleys, foothills, and inland portions of the Bay Area. But several cold blows to the flowers, leaves, stems and roots?

We aren't talking about light frosts, or temperatures that hover around 30 degrees (F) for a couple of hours; that would be normal; the possibility of a frost in Sacramento is anytime between November and late March. The most typical frost period here is December and January. Usually by late February, gardeners thoughts - mistakenly - have turned to planting warm season annuals and putting away the frost cloths for the season. What area gardeners are going through right now is several days of extended hours of below freezing overnight temperatures, with prolonged bouts of plant-killing cold in the mid-to-low 20's.

So, what should a shivering gardener do...after a hard freeze, when temperatures are at or below 28 degrees for several consecutive hours? Should they:

a) remove all plants that look frost-bitten;

b) prune away all freeze-damaged plant parts;

c) Purchase and plant again this month those same varieties of trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals;

d) Water the garden, even if the plants resemble toast;

e) Fight the urge to prune and plant by staying indoors, next to the wood stove.

The answers happen to be the easiest to accomplish on a cold weekend: d) and e).

If plants in your garden look blackened and wilted now, new growth may emanate from the base of the plant when the weather warms up in a couple of months.

New growth beneath the frosted branches of a geranium.

Pruning away the dead portions now exposes buds that may still be alive; another frosty morning could wipe out those survivors. Keep the shears in the garage and let the dead portions of the plants protect the understory.

It may take until mid-Spring before you see new growth. Patience is key before you pick up the pruners. In the meantime, tolerate the ugly.

Make sure your garden and potted plants remain moist, especially if it isn't raining. Water gives off heat, and this can protect plants from freezing, especially borderline citrus trees, such as lemons and limes. Damp soil retains heat better than dry soil, protecting roots and warming the air near the soil.

Succulents, such as cactus, are the exception, however. According to the Arizona-based Desert Botanical Garden, most succulents survive freezing temperatures best if the soil around them is dry.

It's dead, Jim.

Some of those dead plants may be summer annuals that survived our unusually mild early and mid-winter. This impatiens, for example took its sweet time to croak. Mornings hovering around 25 degrees can do that to a summer annual. Put them in the compost pile; plant more in the spring, after all danger of frost.

Frosty the Ficus

What about those plants that have frozen past the point of no return? Should you replace them with the same varieties? That frozen ficus may be Mother Nature's way of telling you: "Hey! This ain't San Diego! Pick outdoor plants that can take colder temperatures!"

Oh, and keep your frost protection gear handy...just in case.

Late February Freeze in Sacramento? Yep, It Does Happen.

2018-02-16T16:54:00.000-08:00

A late winter surprise for our area: frost and freeze watches are posted for Northern California from President's Day (Feb 19) through Wednesday morning. This is not typical, but not out of the realm of possibility. The usual "frost season" for Sacramento - when there is a 50% or greater possibility of temperatures dipping below 32 degrees - is mid-December through mid-February. However, frosts have been recorded here from the first week of November through the last week of March. It's the "Freeze Warning" issued today by the National Weather Service for Northern California that should have gardeners, homeowners and pet owners concerned.

What is cold? Some definitions:

Frost: temperatures dip to 32 °F (0 °C) for short periods of time. Occurs with fair skies and light winds.

Freeze: temperatures at or below 32 °F

Hard Freeze: temperatures below 28 °F for several hours.

Fruit-laden citrus trees could be threatened by very cold mornings in the weeks (or days) ahead. Some planning tips for the upcoming cold mornings:

When a frost is forecast:

1. Move potted plants to a warmer spot next to house or under patio cover, especially on south side.

2. Check that plants are well-watered since dry plants are more susceptible to damage, and moist soil retains heat better than dry soil.

3. Cover plants with a row cover before sunset to capture ground heat radiating upward at night, but remove covers daily if it is sunny and above freezing to allow soil to absorb heat.

4. Add heat by using outdoor lights: hang a 75 watt corded work light or Holiday string lights to the interior of the plant. Use the old C7 or C9 large bulbs, not new LED lights which do not give off heat.

5. Wrap trunks of tender trees if hard freeze is expected, using towels, blankets, rags, or pipe insulation.

6. Harvest ripe citrus fruit. Generally, both green and ripe fruit are damaged below 30 degrees, but there is some variation by species (refer to the chart in UC/ANR Publication 8100, "Frost Protection for Citrus and Other Subtropicals").

7. Winterize your gasoline-powered garden equipment. Gas can go bad and screw up your engines if allowed to overwinter, unused. Drain the tanks or turn off the supply valve and run the engine until it stops. For containerized gas (or gas still in equipment) add a stabilizer. Run the engine for 10 minutes or so to make sure the stabilized gas is thoroughly mixed into the engine.

When a Freeze or Hard Freeze is Forecast (temperatures remain at or below 28 degrees for several hours)

1. Wrap any exposed plastic water pipes with pipe insulation tubes; use a cover for outdoor faucets. Turn off the water supply to outdoor irrigation faucets, if possible. Allow those faucets to drain.

2. Disconnect garden hoses and lay them out straight...away from driveways!

3. Adjust your pool, spa or pond filtration timers so that they are running when the chance of freezing temperatures is greatest, between two and nine a.m. Moving water is less susceptible to freezing.

4. For dish-shaped fountains: Turn off and let drain to the holding tank below ground. Remove any standing water in the dish.

Frosty the Fuchsia

After a frost:

1. Identify damage: dark brown or black leaves and twigs.

2. Wait to prune out damage until after danger of frost is past, and new growth begins in spring.

3. Make sure the backyard birdbath isn't frozen over in the morning. Daily fresh water for dogs and cats is also a good morning habit.

Tips for Getting Ready for Frost/Freeze Season here:

• Identify cold spots in landscape by monitoring with a thermometer that registers high and low temperatures.

• Identify plants at risk: citrus, succulents, tender perennials, tropical and subtropical plants.

• Have supplies ready: sheets or frost cloths, lights, wraps for trunks, thermometers, stakes or framework to hold covers off foliage.

• Prepare tender plants: avoid fertilizing and pruning after August to minimize tender new growth.

• Plant insurance: In September and October, take cuttings from frost sensitive perennials; keep cuttings in a sunny, indoor area.

• Monitor weather forecasts and note how low temperatures will be and for how long.

Pipe Wrap: Cheap Frost Insurance

3 Tips for Easier Gardening

2017-12-16T12:00:00.000-08:00

As Grandpa Wicka used to say while repairing the tractor at the family farm outside Wibaux, Montana: "Education Costs Money." And that includes your garden education, as well. Here are three tips that took awhile (and not a few dollars) for me to learn:

Buying a wheelbarrow? Replace that inflatable tire with a foam filled tire. Yes, that foam-filled tire/wheel combination may set you back an extra $35-40, but you will never again have to worry about a flat tire. Or purchase new inner tubes. Or buy that gooey "fix-a-flat" stuff. Or spend your first ten minutes in the garden each day with the air pump. This goes double for any gardener with an extensively thorny berry patch, where wheeling that barrow can easily cause punctures.

Shopping for garden pruners? Buy quality pruning equipment, and shop at a store that also carries replacement parts for those pruners. That is also true when choosing any sort of garden cutting device, including needle-nose nippers (for cut flowers, fruits, vegetables), pruning hand saws, bow saws, loppers and chain saws. And don't base your purchase on brand name alone. Felco, Corona, Fiskars and other manufacturers do make high quality (and high priced) pruners. But they also may produce inexpensive lines of pruners for the big box stores and chain stores.

For example, that $10 bypass pruner by Fiskars may not have replaceable blades, a replaceable latch or even the ability to disassemble the unit for cleaning, sharpening and oiling. But the $50 bypass pruners from Felco do have a removable nut so that you can replace and clean the blades, as well as being a better design that may be more comfortable for extended use. The cheaper models might last a year; a good hand pruner by Felco or Corona can last a lifetime, with proper care. One of my favorites is the Felco F-7 (pictured below, on the left). It has a rotating handle that eases the strain on the fingers and hand during a long day of pruning.

One other tip: for general pruning chores, choose bypass hand pruners instead of anvil pruners. Anvil pruners crush the stem, and can leave a messy cut that may invite pests and disease if that branch is alive. Anvil pruners are fine for your cut flower garden (sealing the moisture in the stem until you get the flowers into a vase of water) or for removing completely dead branches. For more information (and some rather stern opinions from local gardening experts), here's a link to more about Anvil vs. Bypass pruners.

When choosing your first drip irrigation system, buy it from a store that's going to be in business for a long time. That store will be your best source for add-ons and replacement parts for your particular system. An irrigation supply store is the best place to shop. Or, choose a reputable online irrigation store, such as Dripworks, based in Willits, California.
There is no uniformity among manufacturers when it comes to their "half-inch tubing" sizes. The outside diameter of that half-inch mainline drip tubing can range from .620 to .710, depending on the manufacturer. Which means that shopping for fittings, especially couplers, can be a a daunting experience if you're shopping at a different store. The good news: there are universal couplers available that are adjustable to fit most half inch tubing. The bad news: in my experience, they break down after too many years in the sun. Bury them under some mulch for a longer life.

A tip: Not sure what size fitting you need for your drip line? Take a piece of your existing half inch tubing with you to the store, to make sure that the fittings (couplers, tees, elbows) you purchase will, indeed, fit.

Another tip: note the color on the ends of the couplers, tees, and elbows that you already own and use. Buy the same color when shopping for more of those parts.

One more tip: Shopping for drip fittings and you don't have that spare piece of half-inch pipe with you? Let your finger be your guide. Go out to the garden. Stick your little finger into the opening of one of your existing couplers, tees or elbows. How far does your little finger slide in? Remember that point on your finger, and then you can shop for couplings by "trying them on". Another good reason to always carry hand sanitizer: it might help you get those couplings off your finger if they get stuck.

Living Christmas Trees: The Good, The Mediocre, The Pretenders

2017-12-08T16:53:00.000-08:00

Looking for an alternative to the annual holiday household display of a decorated dead evergreen?

Consider a living Christmas tree instead. If chosen wisely and treated correctly, this Yuletide addition can thrive in your yard for generations. The main thing to remember when choosing a living Christmas tree: pick a variety that will flourish in our area. Among the conifers available at local nurseries that will do well outdoors in most areas of Northern and Central California after their indoor holiday use:

• Aleppo, Mondell or Afghan Pine. Also called Pinus eldarica or Pinus halepensis. These evergreens can take sun and wind. As an added bonus for those who own acreage, these pines are good for windbreaks and erosion control. Rapid growers, these pines with gray-green needles can get to 30 to 60 feet tall with a 20 to 30 foot spread. They aren't that thirsty, either; a deep, twice a month watering is all they require during the summer.

• Italian Stone Pine. Another good choice for the interior valleys. Can take heat and drought when established. Has a moderate rate of growth to 60 feet.

• Colorado Blue Spruce. Can take sun, shade and cold, but is susceptible to spider mites. Likes most soils, as long as they're well-drained. This tree with the bluish needles is a slow grower that will eventually get 60 to 80 feet tall with a 40 to 50 foot spread.

• Deodar Cedar. A tree that actually prefers clay soil, as long as there's no standing water. This evergreen can take sun, wind and heat. It's a rapid grower that will reach 50-80 feet with a 40-foot spread. Aptly known as, "The California Christmas Tree".

Some tips for caring for a living Christmas tree:

• Don't keep it in the house for more than a week.

• Keep it away from heating vents, wood stoves and fireplaces.

• Water the tree every day while it's in the house. A good way to insure a slow, thorough watering is to dump a tray or two of ice cubes into its container.

• Decorate it with the smaller, cooler, flashing bulbs.

• The tree can remain in a large container for a number of years, but you may need a furniture dolly to move it in and out of the house.

• Marginal Living Christmas Trees:

Given a little care, the dwarf Alberta Spruce can survive as an outdoor living Christmas tree here. Give it afternoon shade for best results.

Coast Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens). Give this tree plenty of room in the yard. The coast redwood can get 70 feet tall with a spread at the base of 30 feet. It can take our sun, but needs frequent, deep watering, probably more water than our wallets should spend on plant survival. During the last decade, many coast redwoods have been suffering from crown rot diseases, with extensive dieback, usually starting in the upper canopy of the tree. Our area's propensity for years-long drought conditions may be causing the coast redwood to be a poor choice for a long life here.

Limber Pines (Pinus flexilis), native to mountainous areas, tend to revert to rounded tops as they age. The exception is the "Vanderwolf Pyramid" variety, which keeps its Christmas tree shape.

Another one to be wary of is the Grand Fir (Abies grandis). This tree could soon overwhelm a small yard, reaching heights of 200 feet.

Other borderline trees that may have trouble here in the Valley include the Tempelhof cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) and the Blue Point Juniper (doesn't like too much water or slow draining soil).

At the top of Santa's horticulturally naughty list is the Monterey Pine, which is better for coastal environments; even in its native environment, Monterey Pines are in decline due to pine pitch canker. Here in the valley, the Monterey Pine is susceptible to pests, diseases and sulks in our summer heat.

Another Christmas-tree type plant that is widely available here is the Norfolk Island Pine. Known as the Hawaiian Christmas Tree, this is best planted outdoors...in Hawaii. Here, it makes a good house plant year round.

When is a Christmas tree not really a tree? When it is a Rosemary plant, an evergreen shrub that's been pruned into a pyramidal shape. This herb is a great addition for its culinary and bee attracting qualities (blooms in the winter and spring), but would require constant shearing to keep it looking like a Christmas tree...uh, bush.

Heart Healthy Tips for Battling Cholesterol and Type 2 Diabetes

2017-06-23T15:39:00.000-07:00

After being diagnosed with four cholesterol-jammed heart arteries in March 2012, I underwent quadruple coronary artery bypass graft surgery in April of that year. At the same time, I was told (to my surprise) I had full-blown Type 2 Diabetes (A1C of 10.4). The surgery went well and the long road to healing from heart disease and diabetes began.

2011 (210 pounds) 2013 (150 pounds)

Thanks to regular exercise and a healthier diet, I lost 60 pounds, the arteries that now service my heart are still flowing without problems, the blood sugar levels are way down (A1C = 6.0), and within eight months of surgery, I no longer needed to take any prescription medications for either of these ailments. With the doctors' blessings, of course. It's now five years later, and I am still prescription free, with the help of good food and regular exercise. How did I do it? Here are some tips I use every day. Remember: I am not a doctor or nutritionist. I’m just a guy. A guy lucky to be alive, who could've easily keeled over and died back in March 2012. But I'm still here, riding my bike 100 miles a week. Maybe some of these tips can help you!
• WRITE IT DOWN.
Track all the foods and liquids you consume, as well as time spent exercising. Good apps include myfitnesspal.com and calorieking.com

• WEIGH IT. MEASURE IT.
Get a small kitchen scale with a Tare weight (unladen weight) function.

• READ THE LABEL.
Pay attention to serving size, calories per serving, sugar and fiber content. What are the first ingredients listed? Avoid foods where sugar is in the top 3. Is the first ingredient whole grain, or flour? Choose whole grains.

• ADDED SUGAR IS YOUR ENEMY.
Too much sugar in the diet can make you susceptible to many diseases, not just heart disease and diabetes. Read “Fat Chance” by Dr. Robert Lustig for more information.

• SOLUBLE FIBER IS YOUR FRIEND.
Studies at the Mayo Clinic and other institutions have shown that soluble fiber may help lower blood cholesterol levels by reducing low-density lipoprotein, or "bad," cholesterol levels. Soluble fiber may have other heart-health benefits, such as lowering blood pressure, blood glucose levels and inflammation.

• SMALLER PLATES, SMALLER SERVINGS.

• THE KITCHEN CLOSES AT 730 P.M.
Mindless evening calories can kill you.

• BREAKFAST LIKE A KING, LUNCH LIKE A PRINCE, DINNER LIKE A PAUPER. A 12-week study published in the journal Obesity compared two groups of women: one ate a large breakfast, the other ate a large dinner. Both groups consumed 1400 calories a day. While both groups lost significant amounts of weight, the women consuming the large breakfast lost an average of approximately 19 pounds compared to only about 8 pounds in the large dinner group. The breakfast group also lost twice as many inches around their waists than the large dinner eaters. These women also experienced higher levels of fullness throughout the day. In addition, large breakfast eaters also had significantly lower levels of insulin, glucose and fat in their blood, which may help lower the risk of diabetes and heart disease. (Journal, Obesity: July 2, 2013)

• EAT MORE FIBER. EAT LESS SUGAR.
My goals: at least 35 grams of fiber per day and less than 45 grams of added sugar per day. Choose foods with more fiber than sugar.

• SHOP FOR BREAD FROM THE FREEZER, NOT THE SHELF.
Freezer breads usually contain whole grains. Dr. Robert Lustig, UCSF: “Eat only whole-grain bread; that's not the same as whole wheat bread. The fiber is in the whole grain, which slows the sugar and glucose absorption.”

• CHOOSE WHOLE GRAIN BREAKFAST CEREALS.
Refined flours have only 25% of the fiber compared to whole grain cereals. (wholegrainscouncil.org)

• ADD WHOLE FRUIT, NOT SUGAR, TO CEREALS.
When you bite into a piece of fruit, the fruit’s fiber helps slow your absorption of fructose, the main sugar in most fruits.

• GROW IT YOURSELF.
Heirloom varieties are more nutritious. (http://www.utexas.edu/news/2004/12/01/nr_chemistry/)

• DON’T DRINK YOUR CALORIES.
Too much sugar! And that includes fruit juices.

• GOT A WATER COOLER?
Go here instead of opening the refrigerator, looking for something to drink.

• BECOME THE SHOPPER, BECOME THE COOK.

• SHOP THE PERIMETER OF THE SUPERMARKET.
That’s where the healthiest foods can be found: fruits, vegetables, dairy, meats. But read the label of dairy products for hidden sugar!

• DON’T SHOP AT COSTCO BEFORE LUNCH.
And stick to your shopping list. Hunger = impulse buying.

• TURN OFF THE TV AND COMPUTER.
Start counting the ads for unhealthy food and drinks. You are being seduced!

• LET’S GO FOR A WALK!
Walking helps maintain a healthy weight; helps prevent or manage heart disease, high blood pressure and type 2 diabetes; Strengthens your bones; Lifts your mood; Improves your balance and coordination. Walking can burn 200-400 calories an hour.

• QUALITY SHOES, QUALITY SOCKS.
Choose shoes made for walking or hiking. Measure your foot in the late afternoon for a correct fit. Hiking socks with cushioned soles will make a difference.

• JOIN A GYM.
For cardio, weight training and comraderie. According to the Mayo Clinic, strength training also helps you: Develop strong bones, reducing the risk of osteoporosis. Controls your weight. Boosts your stamina and balance. Manages chronic conditions, including back pain, arthritis, obesity, heart disease and diabetes.

• THE MORE YOU EXERCISE, THE MORE YOU CAN EAT!
Remember, you only count “net calories” (Total calories – calories burned exercising). Mayo Clinic: Get at least 150 minutes a week of moderate aerobic training. Do strength training exercises at least twice a week.

• YOU CAN’T OUT-EXERCISE A BAD DIET.
Exercise does not negate the bad effects of consuming too much added sugars as your “bonus calories”.

• BE YOUR OWN CHEERLEADER!
Try it for one day. The next day, use your previous day’s success to move you forward.

• SURROUND YOURSELF WITH BELIEVERS.
Join a walking group or a cycling club, and a gym. Follow people on Facebook and Twitter who reinforce a positive attitude. Daily Health tips on Twitter at twitter.com/ShutMouthNMove

• HOW DO YOU FEEL? WRITE IT DOWN!
Put it in your food notes. I’ve noted a correlation between down moods and the aftermath of excess sugar consumption.

• FIND YOUR NATURAL VALIUM.
A walk in a garden, an easy bike ride, enjoyable music, petting your dogs and cats!

• NAPS ARE GOOD. SLEEP IS GREAT!
Research by the National Institutes of Health shows that lack of sleep increases the risk for obesity, heart disease and infections. Get 7-8 hours a night.

• EVERYDAY IS A NEW DAY!
The beauty of looking at the online calorie counters such as My Fitness Pal or Calorie King: everyday starts with a blank slate.

• IT’S NOT A DIET; IT’S A LIFESTYLE.
You “lose” car keys, cellphones, or pets. You hope they come back. Don’t “lose” weight. Get rid of it, permanently!

• BABY STEPS.
Don’t overdo exercise at first. Work up to the recommended amounts. Choose healthier food alternatives: non-fat milk instead of low-fat milk instead of whole milk; lite salt, Mrs. Dash salt-free seasonings, meat substitutes. Salsa instead of ketchup, pico de gallo instead of salsa.

• ENJOY THE SIDE BENEFITS!
For me, the migraine headaches disappeared, more energy, less body aches, and new clothes that fit!

• YOU’RE NOT TOO OLD TO ACHIEVE BETTER HEALTH!
People who eat right and exercise can substantially reduce their risk for cardiovascular disease and death even if they’re in their 50s or 60s. According to the American Journal of Medicine (July 2007), a multi-year study showed that older adults who exercise at least 2.5 hours per week, maintain a healthy weight, don’t smoke and consume at least five fruits and vegetables daily will lessen their chances of heart trouble by 35 percent, and the risk of dying by 40 percent, compared to people with less healthy lifestyles.

• YOU CAN DO IT!!!
If I can do it, so can you.

Plants For Dry Shade

2017-04-26T18:19:00.000-07:00

One of the more vexing situations for gardeners: those sun-loving perennials and small shrubs that you put in years ago...when the surrounding trees and shrubs were much smaller...may be rather stressed these days, thanks to all the shade that they now have to tolerate. Add to that the modern Golden State requirements for a more water-efficient garden. The new question is: which plants don't require much water...but can thrive in the shade here in Northern California?

Out at UC Davis and at locales throughout the state, the California Center for Urban Horticulture has been conducting plant trials for over ten years, to find out just how little water a wide assortment of perennials, small shrubs and grasses can tolerate and still thrive. They've conducted tests on both sun-loving plants and shade lovers (growing plants beneath a 47% shade cloth). They've trialed plants, including California natives and hybrid varieties, from many sources, including the UC Davis Arboretum All-Star collection.

Master Gardener Pam Bone (left) rates the Sunny Knock Out rose in the sun garden at the spring 2017 trials held at UC Davis, with UC Cooperative Extension Environmental Horticulture Advisor Karrie Reid.

The plants are judged on a variety of criteria before, during and after being subjected to varying amounts of water over a two-year period. Criteria includes judging overall appearance, health, foliage and bloom.

Here, then is a handy list of....

Low Water Shade Plants

2013-2015 trials, conducted at UC Davis.
(links contain plant lists for both sun and shade, as well as pictures)

From the 2013-2015 executive summary report: "In these trials, perennial landscape plant species were evaluated for overall performance on a range of reduced irrigation levels in clay loam soil in the hot interior Central Valley of California. All plants were grown in-ground for 2 years. Planting in October 2013 was followed by an establishment period of irrigation at 80%-100% of reference evapotranspiration (ET0) and 25% management allowable depletion through April 2015. Plants were then subjected to 1 of 4 different levels of reduced irrigation at 20%, 40%, 60%, or 80% of ET0 during the dry season through the first week of October 2015. During the deficit irrigation season they were evaluated across treatments for growth, health and vigor, overall appearance, flowering, pest tolerance, and disease resistance. From these assessments, irrigation recommendations are made for their use in the landscape."

For these shade plant test trials in 2013-2015:
80% = 4 irrigations, May through August (once a month)
60% = 3 irrigations, May, July September
40% = 2 irrigations, June, September
20% = irrigated only once (September)

16.6 gallons of water applied at each irrigation, via drip irrigation. Two methods were used: 2 gph button emitters on either side of the plant; or, 1/4" inline drip emitter tubing encircling the plant (4, 1/2-gph emitters, spaced 6" apart).

Correa pulchella ‘Pink Eyre’
"This small Australian shrub cultivar was a consistently high performer on all irrigation levels in our trials. There were no significant differences in growth or overall appearance ratings between treatments with all levels achieving an average overall appearance of 4.0 (very good) or above. What is significant to note is that the lowest irrigation treatment in the shade received no irrigation until almost the end of the trial period on September 27! They reached an average height and width of 36.5” x 57” (93 x 146 cm). Since flowering for this species occurs in the fall through winter, the flowering during the trial period attributable to irrigation was only evident in October, when the fascinating result was that the 80% treatment had 3 plants in bloom, the 60% treatment had 4 plants in bloom, the 40% treatment had 5 plants in bloom, and the 20% had all 6 plants in bloom. The flowering ratings are not included in the quality ratings table, since all the plants had very few blooms open and were mostly in bud, which would have resulted in a universal rating of ‘1’. The pink, bell-shaped flowers were an attractive feature for a long period of time in the fall and winter preceding treatment and would be an asset to the low-water shade landscape."

Dianella caerulea ‘King Alfred’  "Another Australian native cultivar, this was a lovely, lush, grass-like plant with pale violet blue flowers on long stalks which were followed by bright purple berry-like fruits. Flowering was not dense enough to be the major feature of the plant, however, and the stalks, which came up straight beginning in March, had a tendency to lodge toward the southeast by May. We attribute this to our prevailing winds from the northwest in spring. In a more protected area, or even with higher solar radiation (potentially yielding shorter, stouter stalks), this may not be a problem. Any apparent differences in growth between treatments were statistically insignificant; average height and width at the end of the trial was 43” x 61” (111 x 154.5 cm). A moderate mealybug infestation appeared late in the trial period in September. While one plant on each of the highest treatments had some level of the pest, the two lower irrigation treatments had two (20% ET0) and 3 (40%) plants seriously affected. For this reason, the 40% ET0 treatment had significantly lower pest tolerance and overall appearance ratings (Table 14). There seemed to be some field-position related effect, but the difference couldn’t be completely correlated to that. Due to the double stress of the pest pressure and lower irrigation level, the overall appearance of the two lowest levels in October was really unacceptable. Our recommended level of irrigation for this cultivar is 60% ET0, which for us in a moderately heavy soil was a deep soak every 6 weeks, or three times during the summer."

Lomandra ‘Lomlon’  "We will note here that this plant’s genetics are controversial, and it is currently marketed under both the names ‘Lime Tough’ and ‘Lime Tuff’. We previously evaluated this cultivar in full sun when it was being marketed under the name ‘Bushland Green’, and it received high marks, especially on the lowest irrigation level. The American patent holder wanted to see how it would perform in shade as well. The most notable difference was that the form became less stiffly upright and more relaxed and fountain-form in the shade, while the color was also a somewhat deeper lime green (Figures 13a-b). The plants consistently received high overall ratings scores on all treatments, with the lowest irrigation level once again scoring marginally highest. No significant differences in size between treatments were found. The ability to thrive in sun or shade on any irrigation level makes this Lomandra one of the most adaptable plants to the landscape that we have evaluated."

Ribes viburnifolium ‘Spooner’s Mesa’  "Having previously evaluated the species in our trials, we were curious to see what differences this cultivar might display. The straight species tends to send out long new stems with leaves scattered somewhat far apart, so the most notable difference of ‘Spooner’s Mesa’ was the shorter internodes, making the average size somewhat smaller, and the overall appearance more dense, uniform, and appealing. The pleasantly herbal fragrance the foliage emits when brushed up against also seemed more pronounced. There were no significant differences in growth between treatments. Quality ratings were unaffected by irrigation level and were consistently very good throughout the summer, making this a great candidate for the low-water shade garden (Figures 11a-b). As with the straight species, this cultivar did not flower during the two years of the trial. The average height and width at the end of the trial was 28” x 70” (71.5 x 178 cm)"
==================================

2011-2013 Plant Trials (link includes plants for both sun and shade)

Plants for Shade:
Berberis aquifolium ‘Compacta’ (Compact Oregon Grape)  "The 40% treatment (irrigated twice during the summer) yielded consistently the highest quality ratings. Native species can be slow to establish."

Festuca californica (California Fescue)
"When visiting our trials field, Ellen Zagory, public horticulture director for the UCD Arboretum, remarked that our specimens were the best looking she had ever seen. Its first year in the ground it was the victim of some rabbit damage during the winter, but once the holes in the fence were patched up, most plants recovered well. This California native grass really performed beautifully in 50% shade, producing well-formed plants with good flowering and an attractive overall appearance even on the lowest irrigation treatment of 20% (no summer water). The 60 and 80% irrigation treatments (watering every 5-6 weeks and 2 weeks, respectively) unsurprisingly yielded the largest plants, with the 60% rate being favored somewhat throughout the season. However, if the overall appearance ratings are averaged for just the months of irrigation (rather than the entire year), the highest ratings are the 20 and 40% treatments! So, at least for this species, bigger is not necessarily better."

Neomarica caerulea (Walking Iris)
"The walking iris is a little grown plant, but with potential for dry shade gardens since its foliage is tall and striking throughout the year. The only notable difference in size between treatments was a slight advantage of the 80% over the 20% during the last two months of summer. The significance of the difference faded , however, with the first fall rain. As with the Festuca, the highest overall appearance ratings did not go to the largest plants but to the smallest on the 20% treatment. This is understandable when you take into consideration that taller more succulent leaves are prone to bending over in the breeze and creasing. The 80% treatment did have the highest flowering rating, but the flowers, though beautiful, are small, very fleeting, and not the main feature of this plant.
Both Ventura and Orange County recommended the iris for their area as a tall striking plant for dry shade."

Sollya heterophylla (Australian bluebell creeper)
"The Australian bluebell creeper turned out to be one of the favorites in our irrigation trials with its year-round fresh green foliage and dainty blue flowers in summer. There were no differences in growth attributable to irrigation levels, and the quality ratings were very close."

More plants for dry shade from the 2011-2013 trials: Ceratostigma plumbaginoides
Iris ‘Canyon Snow’
Dianella tasmanica
Cordyline ‘Festival Grass’
Cordyline ‘Purple'
Abelia ‘Sunshine Daydream’
Ligustrum sinense ‘Sunshine’

==============================

From the UC Davis Arboretum All-Stars Collection (arboretum.ucdavis.edu)
Very Low Water Use Plants for Shade
(only two irrigations per summer)

Aristolochia californica - California pipevine
California native plant; leaves provide food for pipevine swallowtail butterfly larvae; versatile plant that can be used as a climbing vine or a groundcover.

Calycanthus occidentalis - western spice bush
California native plant; maroon-red flowers attract pollinating beetles; leaves have a sharp, clean fragrance and turn yellow in the autumn, adding seasonal color to the garden.

Cyclamen hederifolium - ivy leaf cyclamen
Scented rose-pink or white flowers bloom in late summer and early fall before the leaves emerge; ornamental silver-marked foliage sparkles in dry shady gardens; tolerates a wide variety of soil types and can also grow well in containers.

Cyrtomium falcatum - Japanese holly fern
Evergreen fern with dramatic, dark-green glossy fronds that resemble holly leaves; provides a lush look in dark shady areas of the garden; can tolerate high-mineral irrigation water.

Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’ - winter daphne
Shiny variegated leaves are attractive all year; requires little maintenance; intensely fragrant flowers perfume cool winter air.

Helleborus argutifolius - Corsican hellebore
Long-lasting, pale-green flowers brighten the winter garden; needs little maintenance and tolerates dry shade; stiff, gray-green foliage adds sculptural interest to the garden year round.

Heuchera ‘Lillian’s Pink’ - Lillian’s pink coral bells
California native plant; bright pink flowers attract bees and hummingbirds; excellent groundcover for small shady areas or borders.

Heuchera ‘Rosada’ - rosada coral bells
California native plant; one of the best flowering perennials for dry shade; introduced to the nursery trade by the UC Davis Arboretum.

Heuchera maxima - island alumroot
California native plant; a good informal groundcover for dry shade; tolerates heavy clay soils; frilly green leaves look good all year.

Neomarica caerulea - walking iris
Accent plant with arching, sword-like leaves; produces clusters of gorgeous, intricately-patterned, violet-blue flowers; blooms repeatedly in partial shade during the hottest part of the summer.

Ribes viburnifolium - evergreen currant
California native plant; good shade-tolerant groundcover under native oaks and in other dry, shady areas; shiny and fragrant foliage looks attractive all year; attracts hummingbirds and beneficial insects.

Why Are Roses in Vineyards?

2017-04-24T14:19:00.002-07:00

Quiz time:
The reason wine grape growers place rose bushes at the end of their vineyard rows:
a) To alert them to a powdery mildew outbreak;
b) To alert them to an insect infestation;
c) Red roses mark the rows of red wine grapes; white, the white wine grape varieties.
d) They're pretty.

d) is correct. Different strains of powdery mildew attack roses. Insects that bother both would attack the grapes first. And if the color of the rose indicated the varietal, then an apricot colored rose would mean that they are growing grapes for Boone's Farm Strawberry Hill wine.

Sacramento County Farm Advisor and Viticulture specialist Chuck Ingels says the practice may have been tried in Europe a long time ago to detect powdery mildew early, but it doesn't work. The mildew species that attacks grapes is a completely different species from that of the rose powdery mildew; and, they have different temperature requirements. Also, roses are more prone to get aphids; grapes, not so much.

For those at home keeping score:
Powdery mildew species on grapes: Erisiphe necator.
Powdery mildew species on roses: Sphaerotheca pannosa

 Viticulture instructor Andy Walker at UC Davis says that roses are planted strictly for aesthetics. 

This practice probably started in the early 20th century and continues to today; the myths and the stories about it came along the way. 
One blogger took a trip to the vineyards of Italy recently where the winemaker discussed the issue:
"Singore Razzi explained how they grow the grapes for their wine. We wondered why there were rose bushes at the end of each row of grapes and found out that very sophisticated tests were done by scientists on the soil and after those tests, the rose bushes were planted to tell the wine master how the soil is doing. If the roses stay fresh and perfect they know the grapes are doing just as well...when a bush is 'sick' they know those grapes growing in that row are 'sick' also.” 

No winemaker is going to rely on roses to tell them about the quality of the wine. But it certainly impresses visitors; and, they probably bought more wine because of this sophisticated-sounding yarn.

So, how do wine grape growers control powdery mildew? With a rather large arsenal of chemical weapons. And for a good reason. Powdery mildew can develop a resistance if the same product is used over and over. According to the University of California Integrated Pest Management Program:

"Alternating fungicides with different modes of action is essential to prevent pathogen populations from developing resistance to classes of fungicides. This resistance management strategy should not include alternating or tank mixing with products to which resistance has already developed. Rotate with fungicides that have a different mode of action. Research has shown that sequential sprays of products with the same mode of action can lead to the development of reduced sensitivity to the active ingredient(s). Some fungicides have two active ingredients and thus two modes of action. When using such materials, do not alternate with other fungicides that contain one of the same modes of action (i.e. they represent the same fungicide class)."

Home gardeners and organic growers have a more limited selection to control powdery mildew.
According to UC IPM: 
"Powdery mildew is a perennial problem in grapevines. Sulfur, horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, and Serenade are registered for controlling powdery mildew in home vineyards.
Begin applying treatments when all buds have pushed. Thereafter, repeat at 10-day intervals if disease pressure is high; otherwise, extend intervals when temperatures are above 90°F until the sugar content of the grapes is 12 to 15%, which is when they begin to soften and approach ripeness and are no longer susceptible to infection.
You can measure the sugar content with a refractometer, if you have access to one, or you can see if sample berries sink in a 15% sucrose solution. (Prepare the sucrose solution by dissolving 8-1/2 teaspoons of table sugar in a half cup of warm water, then mixing in enough cold water to make the total volume 1 cup.)"

More information about these products: 

Fungicides. Several less-toxic fungicides are available for backyard trees and vines, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive. Oils work best as eradicants but also work as good protectants. The fungicides listed here are registered for home use.

Oils. To eradicate powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil (such as Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil) or one of the plant-based oils such as neem oil (such as Green Light Neem Concentrate) or jojoba oil (such as E-rase). Be careful, however, never to apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray or plants may be injured. Some plants may be more sensitive than others, however, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays may be even longer; always consult the fungicide label for any special precautions. Also, oils should never be applied when temperatures are above 90°F or to drought-stressed plants. Horticultural oils as well as neem and jojoba oils are registered on a wide variety of crops.

Sulfur. Sulfur products have been used to manage powdery mildew for centuries but are only effective when applied before disease symptoms appear. The best sulfur products to use for powdery mildew control in gardens are wettable sulfurs that are specially formulated with surfactants similar to those in dishwashing detergent (such as Safer Garden Fungicide). To avoid injury to the plant or tree, sulfurs should not be applied within 2 weeks of an oil spray, used on any plant when the temperature is near or over 90°F (80°F for caneberries and strawberry), and never applied at any temperature to apricot trees.

Biological Fungicides. Biological fungicides (such as Serenade) are commercially available beneficial microorganisms formulated into a product that, when sprayed on the plant, inhibit or destroy fungal pathogens. The active ingredient in Serenade is a bacterium, Bacillus subtilis, that helps prevent the powdery mildew from infecting the plant. While this product functions to kill the powdery mildew organism and is nontoxic to people, pets, and beneficial insects, it has not proven to be as effective as the oils or sulfur in controlling this disease.

Tips for Golden Age Gardening

2017-04-17T15:09:00.001-07:00

As we age, the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weaker...when it comes to gardening. The good news is: we have the experience and wisdom to garden smarter as we get older.

Our enjoyment of growing fruit, flowers and vegetables seems to increase as the years fly by. Maybe it's because we've come to better appreciate how nature works. Maybe it's because we enjoy doing things closer to home. Or, maybe it's because plants don't talk back.

     Whatever the reason, one thing is for certain: we don't bend down into a flower bed, lift bags of fertilizer and pull weeds as easily as we used to. As a result, we know that a few hours working briskly in the yard may result in an evening of moving slower.

    Still, there's no reason why you can't enjoy the good exercise of gardening (burning up to 7 calories a minute!). Just get rid of those tasks that are monotonous or excruciatingly difficult. Here are some tips for implementing an easy-care garden for the Golden Years, advice that can be summed up in four words: automate, elevate, eliminate, delegate.

• Automate. Provide your garden with an automatic watering system. The efficiency of an automated sprinkler or drip irrigation system protects your plants from the summertime heat when you're away from home. And, a good drip system reduces water usage, unwanted weed growth and plant diseases. Replace your old irrigation control system with a model that can control more valves with more flexibility. For example, the Hunter line of irrigation control systems automatically adjust water run times based on the season and the weather. And it will automatically turn off your sprinklers if it senses rain.

Consider installing battery operated water timers at distant faucets to control the watering of garden beds. The better ones not only turn the water on and off, but offer extended run times (perfect for drip irrigation) as well as multiple cycles per day (perfect for watering container plants on hot summer days).

Install low-voltage night lighting, equipped with sensors, to automatically come on at sunset throughout the yard.

• Elevate. Build raised planters for your flowering plants and vegetables. Not only do raised beds reduce the amount of stooping and kneeling that are a necessary part of gardening, raised beds provide better drainage for plants that don't like "wet feet". Built of wood, concrete or brick, a raised bed, 18-24 inches high, gives you a place to sit while weeding, pruning or harvesting. Make the raised beds any length you desire; but keep the width less than four feet across for ease of reaching into the middle of the bed. And lining the bottom of these beds with quarter-inch mesh hardware cloth will keep gophers from sampling the fruits of your labor.

• Eliminate. Life is too short to put up with a problem plant. Why waste time fretting over a habitually under-performing perennial, shrub or tree? Why tolerate tree litter or plant roots that are upheaving concrete? If it is growing awkwardly or is consistently pest infested despite your best efforts, get rid of it. Purchase another plant that will do better.

Although the attempt to totally eradicate weeds is an exercise in futility, adding three or four inches of mulch, such as a walk-on bark, can dramatically reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds.

If you really want to cut down on a monotonous garden chore, save money and time...get rid of the lawn! Mowing, edging, weeding a lawn can average an hour a week. Replace that ongoing chore with a garden area that is beautiful, uses much less water (with the right plants), and eliminates most weeding (thanks to several inches of mulch).

The area you see above was 1200 square feet of a bermudagrass lawn in nearly full sun. It was an area that was a lot of work to maintain and keep irrigated, and offered none of the benefits of a real garden.

We replaced that lawn with what you see here: a fountain (that attracts birds and beneficial insects), dwarf fruit trees (such as the Garden Gold peach) and blueberries in containers, as well as native plants such as California buckwheat that attracts beneficials and pollinators. The best part? That area now uses 88% less water than the former lawn. And although it may sound heretical coming from me, there's nothing wrong with ripping out an underperforming turf area and replacing it with...an artificial turf putting green (top picture).

• Delegate. Somewhere in your neighborhood, there is the teenager looking to pick up some spending money doing yard chores (I know, that's like searching for the Holy Grail!); but there may also be the guy or gal who has that tractor, front loader, chipper-shredder, backhoe or whatever that could accomplish in a fraction of the time what you are attempting to do with a shovel, small mower or saw. Ask your neighbors for recommendations for professional landscapers and arborists. Check your home owner's insurance for coverage...and then seek them out. Parceling out yard work to others is tough for gardeners; but grit your teeth, open your wallet...and save your back.

How Can I Improve My (Expletive Deleted) Clay Soil?

2017-04-08T10:12:00.000-07:00

From the garden e-mail bag, Gordon of Lodi writes: "I've about had it with clay/hard pan soil. The soil map for Lodi/Stockton says we are supposed to have sandy loam. Give me a break! I bought a 30 lb. bag of gypsum pellets and I'm willing to dig it in everywhere. But, how much do I use? I found an article online. It says to add 20-30 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. of garden area. I'm not going to work up 1000 sq. ft.! How about a cup full in 10-20 sq. ft. every three years?"

Gordon, how about getting a soil test done first? California's Central Valley is made up of many different soil types, so yours may not be representative of what you researched.

Gypsum is effective on soils high in salts; it does nothing to improve the permeability of our clay soils, most of which do not have a salt issue. Still, only a soil test can determine that. By the way, gypsum is very slow to work. It needs to be added (for that salinity problem) on a regular annual basis, not once every three years.

Usually, the reasons for the expletives used against clay soil include symptoms such as slow draining soil, difficult to dig soil, or hardpan layers.

This time of year, especially after a rainy winter, compaction of clay soil is not uncommon (quit walking on wet clay soil!).
 
Don't want to be a scientist? Then, build a raised bed and plant in that, using a high quality commercial soil mix. To improve water penetration, be sure to mix in some of the new soil into the existing soil base at the bottom of the raised bed.

Raised Beds, Fair Oaks Horticulture Center

If you want to improve the soil drainage and permeability of your existing clay soil, add quality compost, top the soil with several inches of mulch, and grow a cover crop.

The Yolo County Master Gardeners put together an easy-to-understand chart of soil symptoms and possible solutions. More info is available in their online publication, "Using Soil Amendments in Yolo County Gardens."

A word of warning about one of those suggestions: adding sand, perlite or vermiculite to your soil may be counterproductive. According to retired college horticulture professor Debbie Flower, "I would not add those to my field soil: Too little sand added to clay = cement. Perlite is ugly (and it tends to rise to the surface). Vermiculite just compresses when soil is worked or walked on."

Elsewhere in that publication, they explode some of the myths about certain soil amendments:

Myth #1. Gypsum softens clay or loosens compacted soil.
Gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) is effective in counteracting the effects of sodium, which in excess (in soil or in irrigation water) causes soil aggregates to disperse, sealing the soil surface and reducing water infiltration. The calcium in the gypsum replaces the sodium, making for more stable soil aggregates, which do not disperse and form a seal so readily. This process is the basis for the misleading claim that gypsum “loosens” the soil. Gypsum does not reduce or prevent soil compaction, dissolve hardpan, soften clay soils, or convert clay to loam.

Myth #2. Gypsum lowers the pH of alkaline soils.
In very high pH soils (pH > 8.5, characteristic of high- sodium soils), gypsum will lower the pH, but only slightly. At lower, though still alkaline, soil pH values, gypsum has little or no effect on pH. Chemically, calcium sulfate is a “neutral salt”, i.e., when it dissolves in water, it does not change the pH of the solution. If the objective is to lower soil pH, elemental sulfur, iron sulfate, or aluminum sulfate should be used.

Myth #3. Inoculating soil with microbes or microbial preparations, will improve “dead” or infertile soil.
A wide variety of “microbial” products that contain (or claim to contain) microorganisms are commercially available for farm and garden use. A review of the claims made for such products is beyond the scope of this bulletin. Keep in mind that most soils, including soils that have been fertilized only with synthetic fertilizers, or have suffered years of abuse (compaction, erosion, loss of organic matter) still contain a great diversity of microbial species. To establish or re-establish a healthy soil food web, all that is needed is to apply a variety of organic amendments and ensure that pH and nutrient levels are adequate for plant growth.

More information about:
The benefits of adding compost to the soil.
The benefits of topping garden soil with mulch.
The benefits of cover cropping.

Growing Your First Vegetable Garden? Some Tips.

2017-04-01T09:41:00.000-07:00

If you're new to backyard gardening and want to start growing vegetables, here are some tips:

• Location, location, location: Give the garden a sunny spot. Pick a garden location that gets at least six hours a day of full sun. Good drainage is key. That's why raised beds are so popular (that, and the soil in raised beds warms up sooner in the spring). Make sure a source of water is nearby. And, a location that is easily seen on a regular basis from a house window (esp. the kitchen), is a good reminder of what's out there and what needs to be harvested.

• Know your soil. Do a pH test (which measures the relative alkalinity or acidity of the soil), or a full soil test. One of the best bargains for a complete soil test is the University of Massachusetts. They will analyze your soil for under $20 (at this writing). They also include an interpretation of what all those measurements mean to you. Or, purchase an inexpensive pH and macronutrient test kit, one that will tell you your soil's acidity/alkalinity, along with its needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

• Amending the soil with a good quality compost is a great idea, if your soil has never been amended. Rototill in a cubic yard of compost for every 300 square feet of garden. That is a rule of thumb that I follow. After the first growing year, no rototilling is necessary. Just add a few inches of compost to the top of the soil; let the winter rains work the compost in.

• Fertilize the soil. I prefer to use low-dosage organic fertilizers, such as a mix of fish emulsion and sea kelp. There are plenty of great all-in-one organic fertilizers on the market labeled for use in vegetable gardens. Be sure to follow the label directions. If using a non-organic granular fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10- formulation), put a tablespoon in the bottom of the planting hole, cover with a couple inches of soil, and water in thoroughly. Don't let the sensitive roots of the tomatoes and peppers come in direct contact with the fertilizer. If you'll be using a water soluble, non-organic fertilizer on an every-other-week or monthly basis, use half the recommended amount for this first feeding.

Oregon Spring V

Good sources of information:

The Sunset Western Garden Book

The Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles

The UC Davis Vegetable Research and Information Center is a good website with more garden starting info.

That's the basics! What you plant is up to you and your family's appetites.

Read on for more detailed gardening information for the first timer:

Peppers spaced 2 feet apart. They WILL fill the bed! Trust me on that.

Tomatoes spaced three feet apart. They also WILL FILL THE BED.

• Give tomatoes room. Full-size tomatoes grow on vines that can reach five feet high or more. Plant them three to four feet apart. Prepare a staking system now while they're still manageable.

• Space peppers about two feet apart. According to horticulture professor Debbie Flower, peppers can be planted deeply, just like tomatoes.

• Water. Don't let the soil dry out while the roots are getting established. During the warmth of summer, water tomatoes and peppers regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist. One common problem with tomatoes, blossom end rot (the bottom of the tomato turns brown and mushy), can be traced in part to irregular watering habits. Deep, infrequent waterings (once or twice a week) with drip irrigation or soaker hoses work great. An added benefit: drip systems and soaker hoses can be hooked up to a battery operated timer, watering these summertime treats while you're vacationing. Because raised bed plantings and containerized plantings will dry out quicker, they will need more frequent irrigations.

Use a moisture meter to determine when the soil is beginning to dry out at the root zone to help you develop a watering schedule. Remember, that schedule will change as the weather fluctuates.

Broccoli in the Winter Garden

The Year-Round Garden. In California, there are 3 to 4 seasons, depending on your location, in which vegetables can be grown. Yet, many gardeners grow only summer crops. By planting a spring crop, a summer crop, and a fall crop, a gardener can get 3 crops from the same space.

Level ground is best for growing vegetables. It is easier to prepare, plant, and irrigate than sloping ground. If you must plant on sloping ground, run rows across the slope, not up and down, to keep the soil from washing away during irrigation.

Preparing a Garden Plan
It is best to plan on paper before planting your garden. A well-planned garden can provide fresh or preserved vegetables for use all year.

Plant perennial crops, such as rhubarb and asparagus, to one side of the garden so that the plants are not disturbed by preparations for future crops. Plant tall crops, such as corn and pole beans, on the north side of the garden so that they will not shade low-growing crops.

Trellising and staking. Do not grow horizontally what you can grow vertically. Twining crops, such as tomato, squash, cucumber, and pole beans, use a great deal of space when allowed to grow along the ground. Trellises, stakes, or other supports minimize the ground space used and increase garden productivity. Support materials can consist of wood, extra stakes, twine, or a nearby fence.

For the beginning vegetable gardener, choose more hybrid seeds than heirlooms. Hybrid vegetables are bred to have more disease and pest resistance, as well as larger yields. Heirloom varieties have more unique shapes and flavors, but can be problematic for the first time gardener. Sure, buy some heirlooms for the flavor; but for your first garden, plant mostly hybrids. After that, you may prefer the flavor of the heirlooms. I still plant a mix of both.

Succession planting consists of sowing seeds of a given crop at 1- to 2-week intervals to produce a continuous supply of vegetables. Corn, beans, lettuce, turnips, and beets are well suited to this practice.

Intercropping involves planting early-maturing crops between the rows of late-maturing crops to increase production in a small area. For example, beans, radishes, green onions, spinach, or leaf lettuce may be planted between rows of tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, or corn. The quicker-maturing crops will be harvested before the others become very large.

Tools
You only need a few, good quality tools for a small home garden:

Trowel. One of the handiest garden gadgets, it is useful for transplanting and for loosening soil around plants.

Shovel. Use a round-edged shovel for digging.

Spade or spading fork. Use to turn the ground, to turn under organic matter, and to break up large clumps of soil.

Rake. Use to smooth out the soil after spading and after preparing the seedbed. You can also use it for clearing up rubbish and removing small weeds.

Hoe. Use to remove tough weeds and to cover seeds after planting. When turned sideways, you can also use a hoe to dig a V-shaped row for planting.

Following these simple guidelines will keep your tools in good condition:

Clean tools after each use. A putty knife, jet nozzle on a hose or a wire brush is good for scraping off dirt. If tools get rusty, soak them in kerosene for a few hours, then use a wire brush or fine sand to scrub off the rust. Oil them with a light lubricant after cleaning.

Keep cutting tools sharp. The basic sharpening tool for hoes, pruners and shovels is an 8" mill file.

Keep tools in a dry place to prevent rust.